What to do with my Ibanez Artist?

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by ilyti, Feb 15, 2014.

  1. ilyti

    ilyti Lazy Ryebread Viking

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    That's ARZ307 to you who speak Ibanese. Anyway this is the guitar:
    [​IMG]

    Yeah, we all know what they look like. I've had it for a couple of years. It's got Mules in it with a phase-switch on a push-pull. That's about all the mods I've done to it, but here's the deal: previous owner put EMGs in it and thus left huge holes in the front which I barely managed to cover with the mounting rings. He also drilled out the output hole to make room for a different output jack. I'm quite sure that's the sort of thing that DESTROYS resale value. Hence why I got it for a good price.
    I'm pretty happy with how it plays and sounds with the Mules, but I'm getting bored with how it looks and the feel of the painted neck leaves something to be desired.

    I'm thinking of naturalizing it; I just can't help thinking what a shame it is to cover up all that mahogany with black paint. I realize this would further ruin resale value, but I'd like to know if you think resale value is already in the toilet because of the previous EMG-mod. If I could at some point get $300-400 for it, I'd consider keeping it the way it is for now. If however it is worth much less than that, I really wanna do something to it to make it more "me", since it looks like I'm keeping for good anyway.

    I read up a bit on naturalizing from past threads on this forum. Seems like it was a bit of a trend back in 2011, but I haven't seen anybody do it lately. Seems like sanding with a sander and a sanding bit for the curved parts is the way to go. First with very tough sandpaper, then very fine. Someone mentioned chemical strippers don't work very well on Ibanezes, what's the consensus on that? Obviously I'm gonna do it outside, wearing a mask and I'll cover the fretboard in... painters tape good enough? After stripping the paint, I'd like to tung-oil it. 3 coats applied with a rag, sanding between the coats, leaving plenty time to dry. What else do I need to know? I'd welcome any opinions, for or against.
     
  2. MaxOfMetal

    MaxOfMetal Likes trem wankery. Super Moderator

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    These are like $500 brand new, I wouldn't pay anything more than $300 unless it was pretty much NOS. Folks have listed them here and other places around the web for as little as $250. On guitars like this there is never any real resale value.

    Not to say it's a bad guitar, because it's not. It's just not something that you hold onto or keep stock for fear of devaluing.
     
  3. Ajb667

    Ajb667 SS.org Regular

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    Have you thought about using danish oil? It's a littler different than tung oil, and it's used on alot of mahogany and walnut guitars. I'm using it on the build I'm planing.
     
  4. Vrollin

    Vrollin SS.org Regular

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    Going to have a hard time sanding the black off around the neck joint without destroying the binding.....
    I would suggest black hardware, some decent locking tuners, and satin finish the back of the neck. Maybe even die the fretboard?
     
  5. ilyti

    ilyti Lazy Ryebread Viking

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    Yea, that's what I thought. This is Canada though, so it was $600 originally. But still, sounds like I can (cautiously) knock myself out with customizations then.

    Re: Danish oil. Yeah, that's what I used to use in shopclass when I grew up in Denmark. It's just called "Oil" back there. How does tung-oil compare in feel?

    Re: Binding. Don't mind destroying the binding on the body if I have to. Why specifically would it be a problem around the neck joint if not elsewhere?
     
  6. Baelzebeard

    Baelzebeard Grinder of strings

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    I would really like to see a naturalized arz, so if you're keen I say go for it. As has already been said, the resale value is shot anyways. And I vote for black hardware too.

    I'm too chicken to refinish my arz, but it seems like a winner to me.
     
  7. ilyti

    ilyti Lazy Ryebread Viking

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    I think I'll do the back and neck first, that way there's no binding to worry about. I may end up liking it that way cause the part I look at the most while playing is the neck. Depending on the difficulty of doing the back I can more reasonably predict if it's worth the effort to do the front and headstock.
     
  8. tommychains

    tommychains That Guy

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    ibanez guitars have really thick clear coats. May I suggest airplane paint stripper? Expensive and some real nasty shit, but it gets results.
     
  9. Konfyouzd

    Konfyouzd Return of the Dread-I

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    Paid $325 for mine. I bought it from a forum member here. I believe it was rekab, but I could be wrong. Mine was pretty close to perfect. I think the nut was slotted a bit wonky but it appears to have been done that way from the factory... That's the only thing I could find with it and it still plays just fine.

    I ended up getting a black Lace HB7/DB7 combo and blacking out the hardware.
     
  10. ilyti

    ilyti Lazy Ryebread Viking

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    Yea that stuff is apparently extremely caustic. But so is the clear coat dust when you sand it off, I'm sure.
     
  11. tommychains

    tommychains That Guy

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    take your pick, essentially :shrug:
     
  12. Vrollin

    Vrollin SS.org Regular

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    Or wear a face mask and do it in a well ventilated area....?
     
  13. ilyti

    ilyti Lazy Ryebread Viking

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    Yeah.
     
  14. Vrollin

    Vrollin SS.org Regular

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    haha yup, skipped over that part
     

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