What is your next guitar/gear purchase gonna be?

Shask

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Expanding further future business opportunities.

Shark’s Discount Pedals & Fret Jobs: “We’re Cheap AND Easy!”

Hope the files work out well. I had thought similar when I was up to about 9 guitars at one point and some had frets that needed some sprucing up.
I dont think I have hardly any gear I haven't modified, built, or messed with in some way, lol.

In other worlds, I burned my first EEPROM the other day with a custom FV-1 program. I am not sure which effects I am going to program and burn yet, but at least I know it works. It was kinda a pain to get the CH341A burner to work at first.

I kinda thought about making a double pedal where I put put 8 settings on each side, where I could run Chorus, Delay, and Reverb all in one big pedal. Who knows, lol. I soldered a few more FV-1 SMT boards the other day, waiting for an idea of what to do with them.
 

MaxOfMetal

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Im just not sure which one to do first, because I dont want to mess any of the up, lol.

Eh, don't worry about it. Worst case you fuck up really bad you just rip 'em out and get a bunch more practice on a fresh set.

Fretwork isn't rocket science, it just takes some reps to get your groove.

The biggest factor is always time. When you see shitty fretwork it's because someone didn't have the time to get it right. Folks who are really good at it aren't anything special, they can just do it quickly.
 

narad

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Yeah I've got a high fret on a gorgeous musikraft neck with stainless frets on a partscaster that I need to fix and am terrified of screwing it up...

View attachment 107872

I was just watching refretting videos for an hour last night. Hoping to order some fretguru tools, some precut frets, and give it a shot. But it seemed time consuming but kind of brainless. What's the worry here, that you'd scuff up the nice fretboard?
 

technomancer

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I was just watching refretting videos for an hour last night. Hoping to order some fretguru tools, some precut frets, and give it a shot. But it seemed time consuming but kind of brainless. What's the worry here, that you'd scuff up the nice fretboard?

More paranoia because I've never done it before than anything else honestly :lol:
 

Shask

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Eh, don't worry about it. Worst case you fuck up really bad you just rip 'em out and get a bunch more practice on a fresh set.

Fretwork isn't rocket science, it just takes some reps to get your groove.

The biggest factor is always time. When you see shitty fretwork it's because someone didn't have the time to get it right. Folks who are really good at it aren't anything special, they can just do it quickly.
I figure if I go slow and check a lot in between swipes I should be OK. I bought a notched straightedge to make sure I can get the neck straight first.
 

narad

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This is cute:

280911141_1004050683568483_5301041606542721145_n.jpg
 

Kyle Jordan

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Just nabbed a couple of tapered Shivs from Winspear to further The Great Plectrum Pursuit of 2022. Went with the Purity series since I’ve yet to try Ertalyte.
 

MaxOfMetal

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I figure if I go slow and check a lot in between swipes I should be OK. I bought a notched straightedge to make sure I can get the neck straight first.

You seem handy. Build yourself a neck tension jig. There are plans online, and it's fairly easy to just copy the StewMac one. Fun little project that makes working on necks so much easier. I absolutely love mine.

Yeah I've got a high fret on a gorgeous musikraft neck with stainless frets on a partscaster that I need to fix and am terrified of screwing it up...

View attachment 107872

Yeah, that's their thing: beautiful necks and slab bodies that always need work. I think they just eyeball everything. :lol:

Even the import Mighty Mite stuff is better, just definitely not as pretty.

A high fret or two is the easiest fix though. A low fret is a pain.
 

technomancer

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Yeah, that's their thing: beautiful necks and slab bodies that always need work. I think they just eyeball everything. :lol:

Even the import Mighty Mite stuff is better, just definitely not as pretty.

A high fret or two is the easiest fix though. A low fret is a pain.

Yeah overall the fretwork is really good, just seems like the last fret is high. should be an easy job to fix... I've actually got it strung up and am playing it with no work, those last couple frets are just dead :lol:
 

MaxOfMetal

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Yeah overall the fretwork is really good, just seems like the last fret is high. should be an easy job to fix... I've actually got it strung up and am playing it with no work, those last couple frets are just dead :lol:

Just hammer it home with a dowel and rubber mallet. That'll probably give you the clearance you need. Not kidding. :lol:
 

MaxOfMetal

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Yeah it doesn't look like it's raised though and not sure how hard it is to splinter roasted maple :lol:
You'd be surprised. It's always a good place to start unless it's like a stupid amount too high.

You tend to get singular high frets either because they weren't crowned as well (not as much material removed), they were from a different stock, they're not seated as well.

So giving it a good tap (try not to impersonate Thor) takes care of around a third of all too tall single frets.

The alternative is a hump in the board, which is less common, but happens, though it usually affects more frets.
 

technomancer

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You'd be surprised. It's always a good place to start unless it's like a stupid amount too high.

You tend to get singular high frets either because they weren't crowned as well (not as much material removed), they were from a different stock, they're not seated as well.

So giving it a good tap (try not to impersonate Thor) takes care of around a third of all too tall single frets.

The alternative is a hump in the board, which is less common, but happens, though it usually affects more frets.

Nope, tapping did nothing. I'll get the board flat and check it out with a fret rocker and go from there. Since it's just the last couple frets impacted shouldn't be bad regardless.
 

SamSam

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Tried out the KMA Pylon with my 5153S today, when I tried it at home with my modeller/plugins I wasn't particularly impressed (the built in gating seemed to work better for the NDSP stuff). But fuck me, it works phenomenally with the amp. I stood a foot away facing the speakers (at speaker level) with channel 2 gain maxed for the hell of it and could still perfectly control muting. Added the Dirty Tree into the signal just to blast it a bit more and the gate still performed perfectly.

2 cable method is ok, but 4 cable works perfectly. And it was nearly 100usd cheaper than the Zuul+ I was considering. Setting up my board with a Cioks DC7, the QC and a few extras such as the Pylon and (maybe) a wireless. The gate in the QC is ok, but the Pylon offers more flexibility and tighter gating. Now I just need to find a supplier who will ship Cioks 8800 cables for a fair price...
 


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