Warmoth Baritone 7s?

bostjan

MicroMetal
Contributor
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
19,475
Reaction score
10,279
Location
St. Johnsbury, VT USA
So, I don't have any photos at the moment, but something weird happened.

It's a long recap, but I'll try to rush through the basic premise: I've asked my 4 year old son to paint the guitar for me. He said he would like to (although he might have changed his mind, IDK, I'll ask him again once it's ready), but I was going to stain a background for him to paint over. I wanted to stain sort of yellow with black and green stripes a la EVH. I wasn't sure if this would be possible, so I made plans to test it first...

I've used RIT dye 3 or 4 times before for finishing or refininshing to get a colourful stain. Never had much trouble with it other than that it's a little messy and sometimes takes a while to dry.

I tested the dye on some fabric to verify the colouration. The colouration was bold and dark and matched the description pretty much perfectly. I tested masking and dying on a 1x6 piece of pine, and there was a fair amount of bleedthrough. I added some alcohol to the dye to both dilute the colouration to make a lighter shade and also to get quicker evaporation and maybe less bleedthrough. The result on the test piece was encouraging, although I'm not getting neat lines (dye is bleeding under the tape), so I decided to paint over the edges of the lines to sharpen them up. One other weird thing was that the green that looked green on the fabric looked brown on the pine, but then, after I rubbed it with a cloth, some brown gunk came out and left green wood. Ok, cool. I went to dye the actual body and:

1. My icky poo-brown colouration is not rubbing off, even after sanding, the wood still looks brown, maybe greenish brown, but definitely more brown than green.
2. The yellow isn't soaking into the wood, but instead, just forms this sort of cheeto-like yellow dust on the surface that rubs off with little effort, leaving only regular wood-looking wood underneath.

The test piece didn't do this! WTF?! Also, I've dyed guitars before, like I said - but those were blue, red, and orange. Never green nor yellow, I suppose, but wow. I never had any of these problems before.

I think I'm just going to paint over it, so no real harm done, but this is super weird. Maybe Warmoth uses some sort of treatment that doesn't jibe with Rit? Maybe the alcohol causes some sort of reaction that stops the yellow from penetrating into hardwood, but not softwood? Maybe something similar happens with the green to make it turn brown, but maybe something about the softwood stops the reaction? I'm at a bit of a loss. I thought I was taking my time and being careful enough that I mitigated my surprises.

Oh well. I think now I'll paint it black and have the little guy paint over that once it's dry, then I'll top coat with polyurethane.
 

bostjan

MicroMetal
Contributor
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
19,475
Reaction score
10,279
Location
St. Johnsbury, VT USA
20220611_132448~2.jpg

This was an adventure.

The final result looks a little rough, but plays like butter. If it looks like it was painted by a 4 year old, that's because it was. He did a great job, but my clear coat didn't go so swell.

I'm vibing with the Lace Deathbar, but it's a pain in the ass to install. The screws I had weren't long enough, the skinny legs are not conducive to any method of mounting, and routing was a nightmare. I'm honestly surprised I haven't seen more complaints about the installation of these. But it sounds fricken great, so, whatever.

The polyurethane caused the black paint to run, but it mostly just made the grain look uneven.

The bridge placement method I used worked perfectly.

The Sperzel D Thing will not drop the low A to a low G, but it will drop it to a low F. That's still perfectly useful for me if I get another D thing for the 6th string.

The Warmoth neck is super comfy. A nice thin but not too thin C-ish D. I love it. The scale length feels fine.

I think that, with a simple dye job, and a normal-sized pickup, this would have been a super easy project, easily worth well more than the $700ish for all the components.
 

Hollowway

Extended Ranger
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
16,127
Reaction score
11,314
Location
California
This is great!
I have a 7 body and neck I bought off someone who wasn’t going to finish it, so I need to follow in your footsteps. Maybe I missed it, but how did you determine the intonation line and get the bridge centered correctly?
 

bostjan

MicroMetal
Contributor
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
19,475
Reaction score
10,279
Location
St. Johnsbury, VT USA
This is great!
I have a 7 body and neck I bought off someone who wasn’t going to finish it, so I need to follow in your footsteps. Maybe I missed it, but how did you determine the intonation line and get the bridge centered correctly?
I just arbitrarily added 1/4" to the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, then drew a pencil mark that distance from the 12th fret. To mark the center line, I used a straight edge to trace the projections of the edges of the fretboard and then measured a midline between those two. I centered the 4th string strings-through holeright over the center line with the edge of the bridge right over my intonation line such that the line just barely disappeared.

I'd love to hear from a luthier as to why the bridge has to be so far back, but I played with it a bit first just to make sure (2 sided tape, keeping it tuned down and using a small washer to hold the string in the saddle). I thought for sure I was doing it wrong, but since I've only had very minor adjustments on strings 1, 2, and 7.

The body you bought, is it routed at all? Mine was only routed for the pickup and electronics cavity. The distance from the pickup to the bridge also made me feel super shaky about where I placed the bridge (it's about 3/4" away). Is the neck 25" or 28 3/8"?

I just took this to band practice and it sounded great! It makes me want to do this again. Maybe someday I'll spring for one with a trem.
 

bostjan

MicroMetal
Contributor
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
19,475
Reaction score
10,279
Location
St. Johnsbury, VT USA
Anyone know where I can get a case that will fit? I've tried seven different cases I have around the house and nothing works!
 

Hollowway

Extended Ranger
Joined
Dec 28, 2008
Messages
16,127
Reaction score
11,314
Location
California
I just arbitrarily added 1/4" to the distance from the nut to the 12th fret, then drew a pencil mark that distance from the 12th fret. To mark the center line, I used a straight edge to trace the projections of the edges of the fretboard and then measured a midline between those two. I centered the 4th string strings-through holeright over the center line with the edge of the bridge right over my intonation line such that the line just barely disappeared.

I'd love to hear from a luthier as to why the bridge has to be so far back, but I played with it a bit first just to make sure (2 sided tape, keeping it tuned down and using a small washer to hold the string in the saddle). I thought for sure I was doing it wrong, but since I've only had very minor adjustments on strings 1, 2, and 7.

The body you bought, is it routed at all? Mine was only routed for the pickup and electronics cavity. The distance from the pickup to the bridge also made me feel super shaky about where I placed the bridge (it's about 3/4" away). Is the neck 25" or 28 3/8"?

I just took this to band practice and it sounded great! It makes me want to do this again. Maybe someday I'll spring for one with a trem.
Yeah, the body was routed for neck (with screw holes pre drilled), pickup, and electronics cavity. But the bridge area is just plain wood, so I have to do all of that. I have a hip shot bridge for it, but haven’t done a damn thing so far.

So when you added that 1/4”, and you saying you placed the edge of the bridge on that line?
 

bostjan

MicroMetal
Contributor
Joined
Dec 7, 2005
Messages
19,475
Reaction score
10,279
Location
St. Johnsbury, VT USA
Yes I did.

IDK why Warmoth doesn't have a 7 string hardtail routing option by now, but it's super simple to install aside from the fact that where, precisely, to install the bridge, seems to be a guessing game.
 


Top