GoldDragon

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I just picked up the 60W head to go with my eminence loaded valveking cab.

I like it so far. It was a definitely a little complicated to figure out at first, and it didn't take long to realize the on board boost blows. I was a bit disappointed that it wasn't as high gain as everyone made it out to be. I expected to be able to dial in some KSE tones (found out they boost it with the maxon 808), but IMO the amp itself falls a little flat in the metal department.
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I've had my IRT 60h for about 6 weeks and I've done alot of testing with it. The preamp tubes it comes with are pretty low gain. Actually the first TAD one is dark, medium/hi gain and relatively quiet, and the other 3 ax7s are poor midgain chinese tubes, imo.

If you replace the first tube (and/or second) with a really hot and bright AX7, it really makes it metal. I used a GT ECC83-S which is the hottest tube that GT makes and now its got that compressed and hot high gain sound. (I put the TAD ax7 in v2) Before to get the gain I wanted I needed to use the boost, now I don't need it.

IT will be even more gainy if you put two of these in V1 and V2, but I only have one. You could try a Mullard which is also supposed to be hot. Also I used better quality tubes in later positions (sovtek LPS) and it cut down on the hiss.

I have never owned an amp that is this sensitive to preamp tubes.

The TAD power tubes are really good, IMO.

This improves the boost control, but its easier to clip the input gain stage (like when you crank the boost how it gets muddy.) I like the boost control because with the high gain tube I can get my gain from cranking the boost and using just a bit of gain (2ish) and the gain has a more open character.
 

GoldDragon

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Question for the IRT Studio owners: It doesnt have a wattage control, how do you dial in just the right amount of tube saturation? On the trt 60h, the saturation depends on how hot you hit the power stage (the channel volume) and with the heads you can use the wattage control to lower the volume with just the right amount of saturation.

It seems that with the Studio, if you want alot of saturation, you would need to crank the channel volume, but it would be really loud in room.
 

nlaplante

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I like the boost control because with the high gain tube I can get my gain from cranking the boost and using just a bit of gain (2ish) and the gain has a more open character.

^ this!

The onboard boost is not useless. It's just different from the normal boost pedal. It has its uses which are not the same as a TS. I find it adds balls to the tone. Above 5 and it makes a nice saturation. Depends on pickups used too. Hot pickups will get muddy with a high boost setting.

You can even use the onboard boost together with an overdrive stomp. Makes additional tonal possibilities.

Also, the boost setting is also useful when cranking the clean channel volume way up to get power tube breakup. The boost adds a layer of sex.
 

GoldDragon

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^ this!

The onboard boost is not useless. It's just different from the normal boost pedal. It has its uses which are not the same as a TS. I find it adds balls to the tone. Above 5 and it makes a nice saturation. Depends on pickups used too. Hot pickups will get muddy with a high boost setting.

You can even use the onboard boost together with an overdrive stomp. Makes additional tonal possibilities.

Also, the boost setting is also useful when cranking the clean channel volume way up to get power tube breakup. The boost adds a layer of sex.

And lets not forget the real important use of the boost; it allows you to accurately set two gain levels that are footswitchable. You can decide exactly how much gain your lead and rythym sounds have on the same channel.
 

Thyrif

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So, which studio guys are sticking thiers into a power amp? Im sure Ive seen that Fred Brum does it...

I do.
I have my fx out into a g-major and then into a mesa 50/50. Sounds way better to my ears, with punchier and fuller low mids. Its still kinda cool you can take the irt out and have a super portable mini amp for jams though!
 

Tree

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Does anyone have a miked up clip of their ironheart with a tube screamer style boost in front?

I'm really keen to hear how they take a boost before biting the bullet.
 

HeHasTheJazzHands

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[SC]https://soundcloud.com/iambulb/two-notes-torpedo-protone[/SC]

Misha Mansoor's demo of an Ironheart with his signature pedal, which is basically a souped-up TS clone.
 

Tree

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Thanks, I have seen that, but wasn't sure how well that would translate into me miking up a cab for re-amping since he used the torpedo on that clip
 

nlaplante

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Lately I've been using the IRT60H in a kinda odd way for this type of amp. I'm more and more into blues music, and I find myself cranking the sh** out of the clean channel (channel volume > 3:00). I like the tone, but I'm wondering if it would sound more "vintage" if I used the cleartops 6L6 tubes, like the TAD 6L6-WGS? Would it negatively affect the satan channels (because I still love to invoke demons with my Schecter).
 

WJohnM18

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I'm looking into an ironheart but I'm undecided between the 60 watt and the 120 watt version. Is there a huge difference between them tonally and how far could I turn up the clean channel on the 60 watt before it starts to break up?

I tend to like my cleans quite bassy (bass about 3 o'clock, mids 11 and treble 1) so which head would be best for that sort of setting?

If there isn't that much of a difference I would rather get the 60 watt as the tubes would be cheaper to replace (so I've read).
 

Thyrif

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I've had my IRT 60h for about 6 weeks and I've done alot of testing with it. The preamp tubes it comes with are pretty low gain. Actually the first TAD one is dark, medium/hi gain and relatively quiet, and the other 3 ax7s are poor midgain chinese tubes, imo.

If you replace the first tube (and/or second) with a really hot and bright AX7, it really makes it metal. I used a GT ECC83-S which is the hottest tube that GT makes and now its got that compressed and hot high gain sound. (I put the TAD ax7 in v2) Before to get the gain I wanted I needed to use the boost, now I don't need it.

IT will be even more gainy if you put two of these in V1 and V2, but I only have one. You could try a Mullard which is also supposed to be hot. Also I used better quality tubes in later positions (sovtek LPS) and it cut down on the hiss.

I have never owned an amp that is this sensitive to preamp tubes.

The TAD power tubes are really good, IMO.

This improves the boost control, but its easier to clip the input gain stage (like when you crank the boost how it gets muddy.) I like the boost control because with the high gain tube I can get my gain from cranking the boost and using just a bit of gain (2ish) and the gain has a more open character.

Thanks man, I have some jjs laying around and ill make an AB for v1 and v2. Might get some more to just swap all 12ax7s out..
 

GoldDragon

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I'm looking into an ironheart but I'm undecided between the 60 watt and the 120 watt version. Is there a huge difference between them tonally and how far could I turn up the clean channel on the 60 watt before it starts to break up?

I tend to like my cleans quite bassy (bass about 3 o'clock, mids 11 and treble 1) so which head would be best for that sort of setting?

If there isn't that much of a difference I would rather get the 60 watt as the tubes would be cheaper to replace (so I've read).

I have the 60h which is perfect for me, but if you are playing in a metal band or need loud stage volume, get the 120 because it should have more clean headroom.

The way the amp works is that it has a wattage control which is kinda like a master volume, but it attenuates the volume AFTER the power tube section so it can play at lower volume while still getting tube goodness. The amount of power tube saturation is controlled by how hot the signal out from the preamp is. So if you have the channel volume higher than about 4, it starts to saturate. The loudest the 60h can get with clean headroom is 4 on channel vol and wattage on full, which is not enough for a loud drummer. The 60h can keep up with a loud drummer, but you would have to put the channel volume over 4 and it starts to saturate, so for instance if you need the clean channel volume on 7 and the wattage is on full, there is no way the amp will still be perfectly clean.

This maybe could be fixed with power tubes that have later breakup, or possibly by changing one of the v3 or v4 tubes. But if you need loud and clean headroom, get the 120. The 60 may have enough clean headroom. However, if you are looking for an amp with lots of clean headroom, the IRT is probably not a great choice.
 

atticus1088

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Thanks man, I have some jjs laying around and ill make an AB for v1 and v2. Might get some more to just swap all 12ax7s out..

Hey,

I just wanted to point out that I put a JJ in the third valve spot and it made the lead channel lose some attack that it had before.
The ruby 12ax7 sounded way better in that spot.

I usually like JJ's a lot too, since I've used them in the 5150s I've had. It really was a night and day difference.
Let me know what your experience is.

The JJ did sound really good for the clean channel (V1)

I'm pretty new to swapping tubes in and out, so correct me if I got the valve spots incorrect
 

Thyrif

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Hey,

I just wanted to point out that I put a JJ in the third valve spot and it made the gain really mushy, or at least the lead channel lost a lot of the attack it had before. The ruby 12ax7 sounded way better in that spot. I usually like JJ's a lot too, since I've used them in the 5150s I've had. It really was a night and day difference. Let me know what your experience is.

The JJ did sound really good for the clean channel (V1)

I'm pretty new to swapping tubes in and out, so correct me if I got the valve spots incorrect

Yeah it turned out it had one JJ (v1) and two Ruby's (v2 and 3) and when I replaced the ruby's with JJs it got a lot dryer to my ears. Might try JJ, JJ, ruby next. Also have a GrooveTubes Sovtek lying around, was never a big fan of it but might work for the v3.

The Ruby's 12ax7ac5 seem to be Shuguang rebrands. But they do seem to be a bit warmer, although muddier. Might try to get some other tubes to try. Curious about TAD and NOS.
 

GoldDragon

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Hey,

I just wanted to point out that I put a JJ in the third valve spot and it made the gain really mushy, or at least the lead channel lost a lot of the attack it had before. The ruby 12ax7 sounded way better in that spot. I usually like JJ's a lot too, since I've used them in the 5150s I've had. It really was a night and day difference. Let me know what your experience is.

The JJ did sound really good for the clean channel (V1)

I'm pretty new to swapping tubes in and out, so correct me if I got the valve spots incorrect

V1 is not the clean channel. Look in the manual to see the gain staging.
 

Thyrif

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It doesn't say in the manual. (just checked on the online version)

I've just ordered some GE and Tung sols. Lets see how that goes.. (keep you posted)
 

Veritech Zero

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I've had my IRT 60h for about 6 weeks and I've done alot of testing with it. The preamp tubes it comes with are pretty low gain. Actually the first TAD one is dark, medium/hi gain and relatively quiet, and the other 3 ax7s are poor midgain chinese tubes, imo.

If you replace the first tube (and/or second) with a really hot and bright AX7, it really makes it metal. I used a GT ECC83-S which is the hottest tube that GT makes and now its got that compressed and hot high gain sound. (I put the TAD ax7 in v2) Before to get the gain I wanted I needed to use the boost, now I don't need it.

IT will be even more gainy if you put two of these in V1 and V2, but I only have one. You could try a Mullard which is also supposed to be hot. Also I used better quality tubes in later positions (sovtek LPS) and it cut down on the hiss.

I have never owned an amp that is this sensitive to preamp tubes.

The TAD power tubes are really good, IMO.

This improves the boost control, but its easier to clip the input gain stage (like when you crank the boost how it gets muddy.) I like the boost control because with the high gain tube I can get my gain from cranking the boost and using just a bit of gain (2ish) and the gain has a more open character.


Interesting... Maybe I'll give this a shot before I go out and buy another amp. I love my Laney to death but it just doesn't have the saturated oomph that I've been looking for lately. Perhaps this will change that. the local GC has the GrooveTubes ECC83-S in stock, perhaps I'll give it a shot, are there any other high gain tubes you think would work as well if not better price not limiting? And I should just replace V1 and V2 with them right?
 


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