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Discussion in 'Sevenstring Guitars' started by rockstarazuri, Nov 24, 2014.
Ordered my Red w Birdseye today shipping out Fri can't wait to finally try a strandberg
Any word on when the OS6 or OS8 will drop. I've got my money in hand waiting on the OS6!!!!
How low can you set the action on these guitars? I also wonder how good the access to upper frets is. I really want to get on of these badly!!!!
I've got about 1mm treble side, 1.5mm bass side at the 24th fret. You can lower it into the fretboard so the range is there for whatever you'd like. It moves in bigger steps than I'd like sometimes but it plays very well. The action is a bit high from the zero nut for me so I may lower it and recrown, etc. Upper fret access is all the way to the 24th fret, I can rest my hand against the cut away and my pinky lines up straight to the 24th fret, the stretch to the 24th on the bass side is pretty big like any 7 string really. Take the jump, if you're into the design of the body and ergonomics you'll enjoy it
Thanks for the detailed response!!!! I really really want to buy one. Would have prefer a Boden with the Masvidalien tremolo, but I guess this is not possible. My dilemma now is to choose between the Boden and the Masvidalien.
I'd love to see them offer the OS7 with an ebony board. I like rosewood okay but definitely prefer the look of ebony on a black guitar.
This is my only gripe with the bridge. If the threads were just a bit finer I could find that perfect sweet spot. Still, I am in no way complaining
I believe the OS 6 is supposed to be around this summer and the 8 should be here before the year is over.
When those are available in Europe I think I'll have a budget problem.
If you wanted to replace the EMG's that come in the US model version, would you need special slanted pickups?
I believe this was addressed in this thread already, but the routes are slanted for you. If you turn your head sideways you will notice those are, in fact, regular 707s!
When changing to passives you should also think about how to ground the bridge....
So I've had mine for a couple weeks now, and I'm mostly happy. My one big issue has been that the high E string is extremely difficult to play cleanly, because if the low B isn't totally muted, then playing the high E on the 7th fret or lower somehow causes feedback from the low B even without touching the string. I never had this kind of problem playing my brothers seven string Carvin, so I don't think it's my muting that's the problem. I've had to adjust my playing style a bit so it's manageable. I should add that the neck has been given quite a bit of relief, so I know that's not the issue. A a result, super low action isn't really attainable though I'm not super picky about action height. Medium/medium-low height is fine and the guitar is still very playable.
Buuuut, today I just noticed that already, the high B string is creating a small divot in the zero fret. I had heard about this problem with some Carvin HH2's, but never with respect to a Strandberg. It's certainly doesn't make the guitar unplayable, but I can't bend on the 3rd fret or below without an annoying clicking sound of the string going out and then back into the divot. It's incredibly disheartening, as I imagine the string will continue to dig into the zero fret in the long term, seeing as I've only been playing it for a couple weeks. Sucks.
Plus I feel like the resale value of this thing has already dropped a substantial amount, because of these imperfections, in case I just decided to cut my losses and go back to my Ibbys. It's a shame cause I love so much about the guitar. Not sure where to go from here.
Btw, mine is from the Japanese market so I wasn't lucky enough for it to undergo the QC of Ed Yoon and co.
^ maybe a tech can replace the zero fret with a stainless steel fret...
Well, it should already be stainless steel.
Stainless steel zero-frets wear out, too. Vigier makes theirs replaceable (and in string-by-string segments, at that) for just that reason.
Since 2012, I've owned six guitars with zero-frets: A Vigier with stainless steel frets, two Steinbergers with stainless steel frets in carbon-graphite necks, a Klein copy with nickel frets, and two Steinberger Spirits with nickel frets. With every one of them, the zero-frets wore in under the strings in a matter of months. And when I buy a Strandberg OS 6, I'll be expecting the same - It just seems unavoidable.
But I'm not soured on them - It's still something I prefer to have.
Is the zero fret on Strandbergs glued on to the fretboard? Do you need a luthier to replace it?
If it's as easily replaced as on the Vigiers (when it's not glued down and pressed very hard) it shouldn't be a problem HOWEVER, a few months is detinately short lifespan let alone a few weeks... Makes me think the nut might have something to do with it - maybe it's not cut right and allows too much movement on the zero fret. Thinking logically, it should be cut so the break angle between the 0 fret and the nut is minimal (almost same height, so the string lies on the 0 fret but doesn't press too hard), but I might be wrong on this one. Having to replace a zero fret after only a few weeks is ridiculous :/
The zero fret was far too high on mine, I've already redone the fretwork to fix some high fret spots so I lowered the zero fret and recrowned it. 5/7 strings had small indents in the zero fret when I got it, causing the same clicking noise described by others. In my opinion they probably hit the zero fret with a file while working on it, there has been no aging or indents on my zero nut in over a month with EB Cobalts on it (harsh string supposedly). I also replaced the wood (ebony?) nut with Graph Tech Black Tusq XL and sized it so the strings rest on it, reducing noise and regulating the string spacing. My long-term plan with this is to possibly remove the zero fret and install a compensated nut instead
Nice that's what I was thinking, if there are problems replacing the nut might fix it, but hopefully the Washburn shop does a better job...