SECOND BUILD. 7 STRINGS, 27"

visen

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Hello everybody!

Finishing the first project I started in September 2021 and seeing that it hasn't been too bad (better than I expected) my head started to obsess about doing something more "extreme" in terms of tunings. I love Metalcore and Melodic Hardcore. Music genres where low tunings are present in all the songs. So, what am I going to need?
Looking for models of guitars played by my favourite bands, most of them are usually between 26.5 and 27 inches, 6 to 8 strings. It's already clear to me that it's going to be a 27" 7 to be able to sound good with low tunings (SpiritBox type).
At first I wanted to make a Regius type, but then I opted for a different model from Mayones, it will be a Duvell 7 type. I don't want to make a copy and have it be a "want and can't" (Many will ask why not buy the original and forget about the problems...). I just enjoy making them!!!). I love this model but I'm going to change a few things....
Mast:
- Wenge / Purple Heart 5 piece laminate (Perfect combination to get clarity in very low tunings).
- Scarf Joint (god bless my heart)
- Low profile double action trussrod with carbon reinforcements.
- Black Ebony
Body:
- Black Korina body (without top if it's too figurative)
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A week ago I went looking for some pictures of the Elite 7 and rescaled it using a vector program to get the exact measurements. I have a printer in the office that outputs A3, so I did the print in two halves.
I wasn't going to complicate my life like I did on the Telecaster. I cut the edge of the print and penciled the silhouette on 3mm MDF, which cuts and sands much better than doing it directly on 1 or 1.5cm MDF. Once finished, I will use a copy router to transfer it to a 5 MM MDF or Polystyrene.


I received from Madinter a dry and leveled Wenge plank and some 5mm thick Purple Heart (Amaranth) sheets.
The plank is Rift cut, so I decided to cut it into 3 equal pieces and flip them over to get the grain as vertical as possible.

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Glued laminated neck. I left it for a week to dry

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Hi guys.
I haven't been able to make much progress. I'm busy with the neck, which is giving me a lot of work, specifically the fingerboard as I want it to be 100% perfect.
I wanted to show you some pictures of the wood I got for the body. It is a 2 piece "caliber" black limba (black black black black) body.
Could you give me your opinion to see how it looks best.
Personally I like the A and the B.


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Position B

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Position C
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Position D
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Position E
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I'll see You!
 

neun Arme

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Positions E and C are the best, in my opinion. Anyway, I'm looking forward to seeing this build done, it's gonna be great.
 

BlackMastodon

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I'd say B, C or E. E looks very cool with the darker grain coming on the inside of the top horn and the hard transition into the second piece should be masked by the pickups, so it could be great if done right. B and C are safer bets and looks more uniform, still really nice.
 

visen

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Hello mates!

Thank you very much for your advice!

In the end I decided to forget about the Black Limba finish and bought a 5A Flame Maple top.
My intention is to make a Purple Burst quite dark on the sides and leaving the purple in the middle. This is my intention, but what I get is another thing....

The rest of the body and neck will be finished in Tru-Oil. The top in Poly or Nitro using spray that they sell in Europe, type 2K or Nitorlack brand for nitrocellulose.


I accept suggestions for finishes.

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visen

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Hello!
I'm uploading some pictures of the neck right now.
Sanded and ready to install frets and apply Tru-oil. As soon as I have a PC I'll upload the process of how I did it, as it has a history. ....
Cheers!


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visen

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Time for the frets.
To install the frets I bought a 16" Stewmc gauge, very well carved with no imperfections (not like the ones from Aliexpress). Being an ebony fretboard I made a little invention with a wide mouth clamp and attached the headstock.

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I can assure you that the pressure exerted by this thing is enormous. In order to see if the frets were well seated, I took the finest gauge I have, 0.02 millimetres, and I am checking if the frets are well seated.
I never thought of applying cyanoacrylate before putting the frets on, as they are made of stainless steel, they are supposed to last a lifetime. I will apply cyanoacrylate later on the side slots.

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While it is true that this makes a lot of force, you also have to apply it with your hand. After 24 frets, my hand was pretty sore. To cut the frets I used a Knipex pliers, which I used to cut the back of the soundhole to make the cut as flush as possible. The frets measure 2.80 crown width by 1.47 height. I can tell you that they cut very well.

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After flushing the frets and chamfering them at 30 degrees this is how it turned out.

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I have to say a couple of things that I don't know what to do.

The first is that with a special fretboard ruler, I have barely had to correct the bowback of the neck when installing the frets. Now I have it so flat that I can't see any light between the fingerboard and the ruler, and the 0.02 mm claw does not fit either.
I checked the frets with another ruler and they are all level. I can't get the 0.02mm gauge on any of them, and I don't have any rocker arms using the blade method on 3 frets at the same time.
Having these results on the frets, would you level them anyway or, having checked that they are perfect, would you not touch them?

The other question I have is about the nut. I bought a Tusq Xl pre-slotted one, the one compatible with Schecter 7-string guitars. The thing is that if I remove the piece of fretboard where the nut goes it won't give me enough height, and I'm afraid I'm going to have to lower the area of the fretboard where the nut is located in such a way that it leaves me some string height margin. Is this normal?
I must say that in a PRS I have, a SE Custom 24, the nut is about 2 millimetres above the fingerboard, but I don't know if this is due to a manufacturing fault.

Thank you very much for following the thread.
 

visen

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This weekend I was able to give the body a push.
Last week I glued the maple top following a process I saw on youtube.

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For the body, I took the total measurements of the thickness counting the lid, which is 7 mm, so it is necessary to rethicken the body.

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Once we have the right thickness, we put the template and start milling! I made a small investment (50€) in two new milling cutters. The main one is a combined cutter (helixoidal and compression) and the other is a copying machine with a bearing at the helical cutting end. I have to say that it is without a doubt a very good investment as the results are exceptional. Look at the ends of the horns, they are made with the milling cutter, without tearing or bites.

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I take advantage of the opportunity to make some recesses in the maple top in order to facilitate the rest of the arm.

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And this is how it all turned out.
Front face

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Back side

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The Top

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I have to rework the arm rest recess to make the joint perfect.
Cheers!
 

visen

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I'm finally on holidays and I can dedicate more time to the construction of the guitar. Here are some pictures of the process. If you have any doubts or want to know something, ask without any problem.

Greetings to you all!


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visen

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- The next step for me is the most important. Before making all the holes for the bridge, I install the neck in its place, aligned with the centre of the body. I measure the standard tuning on 7 strings (B) with the saddles fully advanced with two turns to go and change the strings for the ones I will use on this guitar, a 13/74 for Drop F# tunings.

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- A little picture of the body sanded to 600 and ready for finishing.

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visen

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- The next step for me is the most important. Before making all the holes for the bridge, I install the neck in its place, aligned with the centre of the body. I measure the standard tuning on 7 strings (B) with the saddles fully advanced with two turns to go and change the strings for the ones I will use on this guitar, a 13/74 for Drop F# tunings.

IMG20220725230612.jpg


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1660487095323.png


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- A little picture of the body sanded to 600 and ready for finishing.

1660487176733.png
 

visen

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Now comes the coolest part. The finish
- I want to do a Faux Binding like the Duvell Elite. To do this I put special tape and apply a couple of generous coats of Tru-Oil. You will see that the tru-oil goes very well and I decided to use this finish because I didn't have a spray gun and compressor and I couldn't spray poly-compatible base coats. But come on, it's not that bad, it looks great!

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I apply Angelus Leather Dye Jet Black diluted with the alcohol sold by the same manufacturer. At the end it is a denatured alcohol .... I let it dry for a few hours and sand with 400 and 600 grit to remove the black leaving only the flame finish.

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- After an hour applying up to 4 different shades of Angelus Leather Dye purple diluted in alcohol in different proportions and two Jet Black, also diluted... Here is the result. I LOVE THE PURPLE BURST I GOT!!!!

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- First coat of Tru-Oil applied.

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visen

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- Fourth coat of Tru-Oil applied.

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- Seventh coat of Tru-Oil applied to the body.

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- Fourth coat for the neck.

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I don't know when to stop applying coats to the neck. I don't want it glossy as it is, I want it matte and I want it to glide well in my hand, do I finish a few more coats and then give it a steel wool?
 

dmlinger

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I don't know when to stop applying coats to the neck. I don't want it glossy as it is, I want it matte and I want it to glide well in my hand, do I finish a few more coats and then give it a steel wool?
Yes, a lot of people steel wool it to make it matte/satin. You could also use a fine grit sandpaper. Would recommend nothing less than 600 otherwise it looks bad (you can see the sanding marks). I know from experience :)

Awesome work! It looks really good. How was shaping that wenge by hand?
 

visen

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Yes, a lot of people steel wool it to make it matte/satin. You could also use a fine grit sandpaper. Would recommend nothing less than 600 otherwise it looks bad (you can see the sanding marks). I know from experience :)

Awesome work! It looks really good. How was shaping that wenge by hand?

For the neck I will do what you advise me to do. I'll do about 4 more coats and I'll use steel wool, I don't know if I'll do the back or the whole neck to get the matt finish.

For the top I wanted to give it a few coats of Poly varnish once the Tru-oil is finished. I want a resistant finish and what better than poly?

I forgot to put the process of the neck, what a mistake! I'll post it tomorrow.

The neck has a scarf joint at 12 degrees. I made the shape with a shinto rasp and a lot of patience, especially the volute and the heel. Wenge is very hard and has a lot of splinters that stick in it! But I'm in love with the look and for my next build (a 26.5 black machine type) I will also take this same laminate, wenge/purpleheart, I just have to decide whether alder body or swamp ash.

Thanks for your help!
 

Jinn

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Could you share the dimensions of the body and neck? I'm looking to do a build myself and I can not find any of the right dimensions. Sick Build Mate!
 

Hollowway

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- The next step for me is the most important. Before making all the holes for the bridge, I install the neck in its place, aligned with the centre of the body. I measure the standard tuning on 7 strings (B) with the saddles fully advanced with two turns to go and change the strings for the ones I will use on this guitar, a 13/74 for Drop F# tunings.
What do you mean by this last sentence? Do you mean you measured the distance on another 7 string tuned to B? I’ve got a build that I need to drill for the bridge, but I’m not sure the best way to measure where to put it.
 


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