Scraped binding?

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by Serratus, Jun 6, 2015.

  1. Serratus

    Serratus SS.org Regular

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    Anyone done it before? I'm talking about the faux binding where the body isn't actually bound, it just has a line around the edge that's not stained. I remember trying it years ago with thin pin striping masking tape and a lot of the stain seemed to leech under the tape so it really didn't work very well. But companies like Suhr seem to get a perfect line. So if anyone has done it successfully can you share your technique?
    I'm guessing it's just a case of using the right tape, and carefully cleaning up with sandpaper or a blade afterwards? :cool:
     
  2. Serratus

    Serratus SS.org Regular

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    Like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  3. vick1000

    vick1000 SS.org Regular

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    That's not "faux", that's the edge of the maple top.
     
  4. MoshJosh

    MoshJosh SS.org Regular

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    ^^^ still not technically binding, so isn't it considered faux?
     
  5. vick1000

    vick1000 SS.org Regular

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    Faux binding is a decal or paint on the top and edge of the guitar body, no one is trying to fool you into thinking that is binding.
     
  6. KnightroExpress

    KnightroExpress Guitar Nerd Vendor

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    That technique is called faux binding. No one is trying to fool anyone, that's just the name for it.
     
  7. spn_phoenix_92

    spn_phoenix_92 The Black Winter

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    From what I've seen, it's done by masking the line around & then applying sanding sealer to that area, then if any bleeds onto the binding line, it will sand right off.

    And yes, it IS called Faux Binding, because it's not true binding :cool:

    Here is a video on how to do it

     
  8. btbg

    btbg SS.org Regular

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    Sorry bro, you're wrong.
     
  9. HeHasTheJazzHands

    HeHasTheJazzHands greg rulz ok

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    Isn't that the point of scraped binding? To imitate the look of a bound guitar?
     
  10. 7JxN7

    7JxN7 SS.org Regular

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    I have always heard that referred to as faux binding or some guys have called it Natural binding in the past too. I'm not to sure which is the more correct as I'm no binding or building expert
     
  11. btbg

    btbg SS.org Regular

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    Yep, but if you can't tell its masked well... That's your issue.

    I remember reading someone's rant about the natural binding on the Ibanez Premium line and someone saying "omfg they does it to make u think its a real maple cap!!!1!11!10" when no one really gave a damn and it was pretty obvious it wasn't.
     
  12. vick1000

    vick1000 SS.org Regular

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    It's no fake binding, binding replaces the edge of the wood and is visible on the top and sides. They call it binding for a reason, becasue it binds something. Leavnig the end grain exposed on the top, is just that. Putting some paint or decal in the place of binding is FAKE binding.

    What if the top was a hlaf inch thick, would the exposed edge still be "faux" binding then?
     
  13. Serratus

    Serratus SS.org Regular

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    Well, Suhr call it scraped binding (hence my thread title) but I have seen it called faux binding too, because it's not real binding. The same is true of using paint or tape to simulate binding; I've seen that called faux binding too. Because all those techniques are ways of giving the look of binding without actually using binding.

    But does it really matter what it's called? I think my first post and the picture show pretty clearly what it is I'm talking about?

    Still, it is the nature of the internet to get pedantic over irrelevant details!!lol

    Thanks, I did watch that video before, although I didn't think his results looked particularly good. It seems to me that taping the two edges separately would make it very hard to get the unstained line the same width all the way around. And I think you could still get the sanding sealer creeping under the tape, the same way that stain/colour might creep under if you masked the actual binding line......
    I have seen some people leaving the edge of the body sharp, masking the outer edge when they stain, and then using sandpaper or a blade to clean up the lines, and to round over the edge slightly which also extends the uncoloured line onto the front by a few mm.
    But then I've had stain creep under tape before and it can be really hard to sand it away completely without having to sand hard and ending up with a ledge.....
    Anyone have any experience with tape that works really well masking wood?
    What about if I spray the stain, will masking tape work better with less leeching?
    Any experience appreciated :)
     
  14. vick1000

    vick1000 SS.org Regular

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    The best way to do it would be dye the top and let it dry, before you route the edges off.
     
  15. Pikka Bird

    Pikka Bird Vaya Con Cornholio

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    It's all semantics. All of the techniques you have mentioned are ways of faking the look of binding. Faux means fake, and 90% of guitar manufacturers refer to such a masked edge as faux binding. It's definitely linguistically legit, and not in Fender's tremolo/vibrato fuckup kind of way.

    Faux binding, reveal binding, masked binding, scraped binding, these are all words that are commonly used to describe this flourish and you can't change everyone's mind because it's not the kind of "fake" that you prefer... :shrug: :2c:

    That Big D guy always gets "close but no cigar" with everything I've seen him do, finish-wise and it kinda pisses me off that he apparently makes a pretty decent buck off it. He buys gorgeous wood for his projects, but makes Telecaster bodies exclusively and does sorta weird stain work where he sands his stained bursts just a little too much in certain areas and makes the whole thing look uneven. He knows the theory but lacks all the finesse.
     
  16. Serratus

    Serratus SS.org Regular

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    That does explain how I feel about that vid - it's ok but somehow doesn't look quite right - maybe the line is a bit wide and not completely consistent.....

    And I don't like the idea of routing the edge after staining, I think the chances of marking the top with the router would be pretty high. And if the routing took any tiny chips out of the edge of the front, then you'd have to sand and touch in the stain, which would defeat the object. Also, the guitar that I want to do it on is a one-piece body, so I need to stain the back and sides too, so I'd still need to mask the stain on the sides of the body...
     
  17. sehnomatic

    sehnomatic SS.org Regular

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    If you want a perfect, repeatable line with a colored back, the easiest way to do it is to spray it. Seal the entire guitar, mask, spray. There are times when you don't even need to scrape.
     
  18. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein SS.org Regular

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    Serratus...check out my Second Siren build thread for tips on how to mask for this stuff. I used tape and spray shellac. The taping is the longest part of the operation, but other than that it's VERY simple.
     
  19. Serratus

    Serratus SS.org Regular

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    Hey Renk, thanks for the advice - lovely guitar!
    So essentially you're saying that I mask the whole body apart from the faux binding line, then spray that with sanding sealer, then remove all the masking, stain the front and back of the body, then spray my lacquer over all of it? Sounds like it would work well but did you have much bleed of your sealer under the tape? I guess you can just sand that away before staining?
     
  20. Renkenstein

    Renkenstein SS.org Regular

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    With this style of binding, it'll take a little more work since you're going to want that ~1/16" edge around the whole top, and I think that's why scraping is the more accepted option.

    When I did it, I had that little ~45° mini bevel on the horns, so I was able to mask right up to the edge. There was absolutely no bleed of sealer under the tape. It's too thick for that, I'd suspect. Before I applied dye, I was able to block sand the top to remove any sealer that might have made it through a puckered tape or whatever. Again, I was able to sand up to the edge because of the chamfer's falloff.

    Myself, I'd be either practicing scraping by hand, or making a tool that presents the blade to the top at a set depth so you get a consistent line all around.
     

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