Project S906 #3

Discussion in 'Dealers & Group Buys' started by RestorationAD, Jan 31, 2011.

  1. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    S906 #3


    Korina/Cocobolo neck attached to a super thin Korina/Figured Myrtle topped body with Hipshot parts and Diablo pickups.


    Neck : Korina/Cocobolo
    Fretboard : Cocobolo
    Scale : 25.5
    Frets : 24
    Trussrod : ALLPARTS

    Body : Korina/Flamed Myrtle(33mm)
    Tuners : Hipshot
    Pickups : Diablo Humbuckers
    Bridge : Hipshot
    Electronics : 1 Push/pull


    Lets start with the neck lamination. I have 3 pieces of 5/4 Limba 36" x 1.5" x 1.25" (or 5/4) grain oriented to create a quartersawn blank. I have 2 pieces of cocobolo 36"+ x 1.5" x .187" that make up the detail stripes. They are cut from the same board as the fretboard.

    Quick word about wood conservation here. The original board was 48" x 9.5" x 5/4" flatsawn. Each half of the body only requires 6.5" that left me about 3 inches to use for the neck blank. By cutting the strips from the board before cutting the body blanks out I ended up with 2 bodies and a neck instead of just 2 bodies and some 18" long scrap.
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    ElRay, sk3ks1s and scherzo1928 like this.
  2. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    This build gets a headstock scarf. For a headstock scarf I use a blank that is roughly 36" x 2.75" (for 6 string) x 1.5". I end up with some waste on this style scarf but it keeps the joint hidden under a head plate and makes for a really nice looking neck.

    After the blank comes out of the clamps it is pretty messy. So I run one side on the jointer to make it flat. It doesn't have to be perfect just flat. The jointer has a wonderful habbit of tear-out on figured wood so I try to make really shallow passes. Next we move to the drum sander and some 60 grit to finish squaring and cleaning up. This step is very important because the top side becomes the surface we glue the fretboard to. It must be true.

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    First thing after squaring is to mark out the neck. Using my template I mark the breakpoint for the headstock, the nut, the 24th fret, and the end of the blank. Next I mark the 14 degree headstock angle, usually I just use my template but I thought I would check to make sure my template is 14 degree and snap a shot while I was at it.
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  3. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Now that we have a mark it is off to the band saw. Since other part of the headstock comes off the end we cut off we need to be pretty close to the line.
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    Now is time for the scarf cut. I use the radial arm saw with a really nice fine kerf freud saw blade. I covered the jig I use for holding the neck in another thread somewhere... Always use plastic clamps because at the end of the cut the blade gets close to the clamp. I am going to make a new jig at some point that removes this potential catastrophe.
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  4. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    This blade happens to be a bit dull... time to drop some cash on a new one. Because I had soem burn I clean up the cut with a sanding block and some 80 grit. I make my sanding blocks with the jointer and the drum sander out of scraps so I know they are square and true. I never use anything that has foam backing or rubber for truing joints.
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    Now on to the neck blank itself. I really don't have to cut the face of this because I can use the belt sander to clean it up when it is done. But if I do cut it now I can save work later so that is what we will do. While it is a clean cut I leave some overhang to ensure I can sand it all flat with no gaps later.
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  5. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    End results are a headstock scarf.
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    Check the lines by laying the blank on a flat surface... the old bench is not flat so I moved it to the Radial Arm saw table.
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  6. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Gluing up a headstock scarf is pretty easy. I picked this trick up from Setch (haven't seen you around in a while). After the neck is properly lined I use a 2" piece of strapping tape on the face of the headstock. This stops the creep that happens as you clamp it down.
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  7. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    First clamp with the quick clamps to get it to tach up. Then get out a screw clamp and put pressure right at the most important part of the joint (close to the face of the blank). Then I reposition the quick clamps around to get even pressure on all sides.
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  8. skyline_1241

    skyline_1241 New Member

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  9. scherzo1928

    scherzo1928 has wood for you

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    Using tape for the scarf joint it a great Idea. I actually did something similar to glue the wings on the headstock sides(think I saw that on another thread of yours?).
     
  10. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Can't use just any tape. Has to be the nasty packing tape with the strings in it... that way it doesn't break. AND you can use the clamps to keep the tape from slipping!

    \m/
     
  11. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Out of the clamps and into the bandsaw.
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    Quick look at profiling a headstock. I used to taper my headstocks and sometimes I still do (I do it by hand with a sanding block). Using the fence on the bandsaw leaves me with better results. No accidents... and the surface that is left is easy to clean up.

    First cut is about .675" thick (yes I run a thicker headstock than most). I cut right up to the beginning of the volute. I still have the 3/8" blade in the band saw so it is not going to make a pretty curve so we just don't even try it.
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  12. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Now take the Ryoba and cut the scrap free. If you push on the piece as you saw down it will snap right as you cut through. Stop sawing as soon as that happens and you won't gouge up the back of the headstock.
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    Ok later in the afternoon I spent an hour fixing the bandsaw and putting the 1/4" blade in. To test the new setup I profile the rest of the neck.
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  13. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Top is here!
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    Body shots...
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  14. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    The plan is to add a layer of cocobollo under the myrtle top and headplate. Finding a really wide piece of cocobollo is expensive so I am going to make a 3 part veneer. It will be covered everywhere except the edges so it is not an issue.
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  15. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Routing trussrod channel. First I set the length of the rod and transfer the line around to the back of the neck. I use a router table and fence setup with a 1/4" spiral down cut bit. Since the neck blank goes face down I use a guide line on the fence to tell me when to stop. Line up the line on the neck with the line on the fence and you are done (the line on the fence is center of the bit.
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  16. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    After routing I clean up the end of the trussrod route with a 1/4" chisel. I then round the headstock end with a 1/4" rasp chucked in a battery drill. I deepen the slot a bit at the end and headstock. This allows the trussrod to fit very snug (make sure it does not bind). When done right the only way to get the rod in is to slide it in from the headstock.
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  17. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    ALLPARTS rods are a bit rough when I get them so I clean up the ends on my diamond sharpener. Like this.
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  18. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Trussrod installed.
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  19. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Using a plexi template allows me to see the lines for centering. However I don't route against the plexi templates. The router bearing gets hot, melts the plexi, and at best ruins the template - at worst it ruins the template and the piece. I always make router templates from 2 pieces of 1/4" hardboard glued together.
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    After bandsawing I sand the edges further so that the router bit doesn't have to cut more than 1/2 the cutters on the bit.
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  20. RestorationAD

    RestorationAD SS.org Regular

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    Here is a close up of the depth the router actually cuts away. Remember not to hit the template.
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    And done.
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