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Discussion in 'Gear & Equipment' started by mnemonic, Nov 20, 2017.
What diodes did you use?
I'd also like to do the triple wreck next, my PCB's arrived yesterday. I may try to order parts this weekend.
I'd also like to do a Guv'nor, I'll probably order parts for a veroboard version at the same time.
I hope the build docs are done soon for that vh4 pedal, I really want to try that one out
The Klon clone, I used "NOS Germanium Diode Work-alike for 1N34A and others....
I am interested in seeing how close the Triple Wreck is to the Caline Red Devil. It has never been officially traced, but there are rumors that maybe it is based on the TW. I have a bunch of 1/8W resistors, with more on the way, so I think I have everything for it.
Yeah, not sure why that VH4 is taking so long. I also have a Tightmetal clone I waiting on also. I saw that the TC IP PCB guy said he hopes those are in stock within the week, so I keep checking to grab one of those also when they are available.
I always thought about a Guv'nor also, but then I got a Caline Sand Storm that was based on the MI Audio Crunch Box, which is based on the Guv'nor, and I also got a Danelectro Daddy-o, which is a clone of the Guv'nor, and honestly, I am not a huge fan of either. Both have that fuzzy high end thing going on. Think Kill 'Em All tone. It makes me leery about a Shredmaster clone also.
I didn't know that about the Red Devil pedal. Then again I haven't paid too much attention to their products.
I'm not sure what to expect with a Guv'nor, but I actually kinda like the Shredmaster model in the axe fx as a boost, and that's what made me think about building a Guv'nor, since apparntly all 3 or 4 of those Marshall pedals that came out around that time were very similar circuits.
Not that I expect the axe fx model of the shredmaster to sound much like the real thing... A lot like the metalzone model in the axe fx, I have a feeling it was added in for no particular reason, and hasnt ever been updated.
It is funny he has the Metal Zone in there that no one uses, but everyone has been begging for the HM-2 for years, and he wont add it.
The Shredmaster and Guv'nor are actually the same, except the Guv'nor has the typcial BMT EQ, and the Shredmaster has BT, and a Contour control for Mids. They can be a cool boost for a thicker, sludgier, fizzier tone. Not really enough gain on their own, but can sound cool with a boost.
I have a ton of Caline pedals. Most are clones of well known pedals. The Red Devil was a surprise, because it is actually a killer metal pedal that dont seem to be well known. No one has officially traced it, but there is speculation that it is based on the Triple Wreck, or Plexitortion. I was gonna build clones of some of them, but I could get the Caline versions cheaper.
"work-a-like" is code for "not a germanium transistor but the IV graph is really close" I would email Steve and get clarification. I've bought those "work-a-like" diodes before and when i tested the forward voltage they were way off of what germaniums are supposed to be.
Personally i love russian D9E germanium diodes in the klon. i bought a lot of 1000 right before it got out that those diodes are "really close" to the unobtanium diodes that were originally used in the centaurs and prices went up through the roof ( a few cents/diode vs close to $1/diode )
I measured them before I put them in, and they measured correctly. They were around .26v or something if I remember right. My other diodes I used (4001, etc...) were more like .58v or so. They kind of look like some old 1N60A or something diodes I bought years ago. I am not too worried about it as long as it is in the ballpark of what it should be. I just want reasonable versions, not to obsessed that it has to be perfect vintage. I did the same with my Rat clone, I used the OP07 instead of the LM308, since the LM308 is hard to find (fakes, etc...), and most people say they cant tell the difference unless they own a shelf of them.
Well, I got my Triple Wreck PCB clone built, the Bluesbreaker PCB built, and the Lovepedal Eternity PCB built. However, I need one diode for the TW, an enclosure for the BB, and need to drill the enclosure for the LE. I just got all these built PCBs laying around.
I actually ran into my first problem. After I built the others I was looking at the TW, and started messing with the switch which isn't soldered yet. It didn't fit. I messed with it, and messed with it. The big diode had to be moved. When I took it out, it ripped the solder pads right off the bottom. The solder pads on these PCBs are so small they definitely don't like to be repaired. I finally got a new diode in after ruining 2-3. Luckily there was enough of a solder pad on the top of the PCB to solder to. I am measuring continuity to where it should go, so I think it should be good to go. I also cracked a capacitor trying to get the switch on there. I had to switch from a film to a disk because there was no way it was going to fit. I think this is one project where the PCB could be slightly larger. Everything is so crammed together.
That's annoying, the TR PCB is especially small given its all 1/8 watt resistors also.
Hopefully it does all work in the end. I'm gonna take special care to check dimensions on all the parts I order, last time with the BE-OD I had to reorder a couple caps since the ones I got were too big. And even then two were still too big to fit. I'll make sure to check switch dimensions also.
I don't have any parts to make anything at the moment, I need to get another order in.
The problem stems from the fact the 1N5817 doesn't fit in the holes. It is too long, so you have to stand it up on one end. Then you either have the body of the diode, or a leg, right in the spot of the switch. Even looking at it today, I think the leg will rub against the body of the switch, which of course is grounded, so I think I am going to have to wrap it in electrical tape. If not I could get a direct short from +9v to ground. I am also going to have to raise the switch as far as I possibly can when I solder it to avoid the diode leg. I will have to adjust the height of the pots because of that. Sigh. Damn thing better sound good, lol.
I did finish my Eternity clone today. It sounds like I expected... like a brighter Tubescreamer. I just need some knobs for it. Tomorrow I am getting a shipment, so I should be able to fix my Klone, and complete the TR. Then I have another package coming later with more enclosures to finish my BluesBreaker. I am not sure what I will start next. I had 3 half-done, so I wanted to finish them before starting another. I have some chorus and vibe PCBs, but they are far more complex, so I don't know if I feel like doing that yet, lol.
Here is my Klone, and I got some blue knobs for the Rat. I finally got the correct input jack and got it fixed. The Klone is a pretty cool transparent booster which can add some presence sparkle to the sound. I am not sure the looks turned out like I envisioned them, lol, but I guess it looks OK. It works, so that is what counts. Again, with the LED you can see from space, lol. I bought 2 8mm LEDs for whatever reason, so I put them in the big box enclosures.
Triple Wreck.... more like Train Wreck.... lol
This clone project was definitely the problem child. I talked about the switch not fitting above. Well, dumb me didn't realize the switch goes on the other side of the PCB for whatever reason until I tried to put it in the box. So, I screwed with the diode and broke the cap for no reason. The first time I powered it up, I had no power, so I broke the PCB. I had to jump the power from the diode over to a resistor. Then the bypass sound didn't work... screwed with that forever until I found a micropiece of copper that was shorting from my shielded cable. Got that fixed. Finally I got sound, but the switch wouldn't work. I screwed with that forever. I probably took this thing apart 18 times today. I could not figure this out for the life of me.... then I started comparing with other schematics and found there is an error on the PCB. He forgot a resistor. I noticed the current picture on the website has an extra 10K resistor on the right side of the board. He must of fixed it recently. Anyways, to fix this I had to take out 2 caps, which broke the PCB at those locations also. I had to stick an extra resistor to the leg of a cap, and then run jumpers across the PCB because of the broken PCB pads. Sigh.... so I have a big glob of parts soldered on top of the board, with a few jumper wires across the bottom of the PCB. Amazingly... somehow it works. It looks ugly as hell, but hopefully it will never break.
I am 99% convinced the Caline Red Devil is a clone of the Wampler Triple Wreck, without the boost. It reacts about 98% the same. It sounds the same, minus some small bass and treble differences. Once I got the stupid switch working, I can usually dial in these pedals the same. I would probably buy a new PCB and try again so I would have a cleaner one if it wasn't almost the same as the Caline pedal I already had.
Anyways, pretty cool heavier distortion. It doesn't have crazy gain, but enough to play metal. The EQ works real well, and you can get bright and fizzy, to fat and chunky, and the mid control can go honky to completely scooped. Works well boosted with other pedals. Cool pedal all around. I just wish I didn't have so many issues with it, cause I will always be biased because of that, lol. Afraid it will break at any moment.
What a pain in the ass, haha.
I just checked my pcb, and sure enough it’s also missing the 10k between the 1u cap and lug 3 on the volume control. I guess I can just add that above the board easy enough. Leave the - leg of the cap out of the solder pad, stick the resistor to it, and into the hole for the 3rd lug of the volume pot.
It’s not even on his schematic. I wonder how much it changes the sound. Did you get sound out of it before adding it? I know sometimes people will leave out parts that are unnecessary when they design pcb’s but I don’t know enough about schematics to be able to tell what is and isn’t necessary.
Yeah, the switch does nothing without it. It is a low pass filter. You are basically stuck in "modern" mode.
That resistor and cap to ground is a low pass filter. You can calculate the frequency it starts cutting the highs by calculating f=1/(2*pi*r*c), so in this circuit, with 10K and 4.7nF, you get a cutoff frequency of about 3400hz. Without the resistor, you dont have the filter, so you dont get the "vintage" mode of the switch. You will see the same type of circuit in the Tubescreamer right after the clipping stage. The 1k resistor and .22 uF cap starts to cut the highs about 720hz in a tube screamer, and then the tone control can add some back right about 3200hz. If you want more upper mids in a Tubescreamer, you can change the 1K resistor right after that opamp to about 700ohm.
*Engineering mode off*
Yeah, knowing what I know now, it would be pretty easy to deal with this. I would just solder a tiny 1/8W 10K resistor to the - leg of that 1uF cap, and then solder the other leg of that resistor right into the board. That resistor would basically be the "leg" of that cap, and it would just need to sit 1/4" higher than the other parts. Mine was such a mess because I found it later, and taking the parts out ripped up the PCB pads. I also had to use a big box 1uF because I was out of the 1uF electrolytics.
Well I’m glad you mentioned it or I’d be wondering what I did wrong and why the switch didn’t do anything.
Luckily I ordered parts yesterday taking care to make sure everything is the right size.
Apart from the 100u cap, mine are bigger and the supplier I bought from didn’t have small 100u caps. So I’ll just leave the legs long and bend it over the top of the board or something.
Hopefully the parts arrive tomorrow and I can start building. I’m wondering how it compares to my AMT R2, and the axe fx recto models.
I am not sure if it necessarily sounds like a Recto, but it is a pretty cool high gain distortion, with a flexible EQ. I will have to buy a R2 one day. I have been curious about them for years.
Here is my Lovepedal Eternity clone. I have had this done for awhile, but was waiting for knobs.
I finished my triple Wreck clone today, for @Shask who finished yours, how loud is it?
Unity gain on the volume knob is like 3 o’clock or so, maxing out the volume knob isn’t really as loud as I would expect. I’m wondering if that is how it is, or if I wired something wrong.
Also, I assume the down position on the switch is the modern mode? In the up position it’s a lot duller but also feels lower gain.
It sounds pretty cool, but I’m wondering if I did something wrong. It’s getting a bit late to mess with stuff now so I’ll try taking it apart tomorrow to make sure I have no solder bridges.
Yeah, I would say unity gain on mine is about 2 oclock or so. However, there is still quite a bit of volume that can be added after 3 oclock, until max. It all depends on the EQ though. If you have the bass and treble cranked like I usually do, it has more overall volume the the EQ boosted so high.
Yeah, I labeled mine as Modern down. The vintage mode cuts the highs with that cap I talked about earlier.
Today I got my Tightmetal clone working. Spent a couple of days on this. This one was a little tougher because the PCB came from somewhere else, and the offboard wiring wasn't so obvious. The Drill guide was off some, so I had to improvise, and wire everything manually (no switch breakout board). Some of the holes are off, and I had to circuit trace some to figure out how to wire up the switch and LED, but got it working. It seems to work pretty well. It basically sounds like Youtube videos of what I expected it to sound like. Very tight, aggressive, crunchy, bright tone.
The only weird issue I am having is the mid scoop knob seems to sweep as it is suppose to, except the final little bit of the turn of the knob.....the sound gets all dark like it turns the tone down. As you turn up the scoop knob it goes from kind of a dark mid scoop, to getting brighter and brighter with more upper mids, then the last bit of the knob suddenly goes dark with no presence. Weird. I have double checked everything and cannot figure out why it is doing that. The other controls all work as they should... Gain, Volume, Gate, Tone, and Tight.
Still need to label and put on knobs and such, but glad the circuit seems to be 99% working.