New DIY stuff day (Pedals and things)

Discussion in 'Gear & Equipment' started by mnemonic, Nov 20, 2017.

  1. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    Looking really good. That 3pdt breakout board is real slick also.

    I'm waiting for my PCB's for triple wreck and vh4 to come in, I still need to do some reading on the vh4 to see what is up with that regulator and charge pump.

    Def try the be-od at 18v, sounds great at higher voltage. Though to be fair I do play on a seven string with high output pickups, with a strat or something I'm sure it's fine at 9v.

    At the moment I really like it with all the controls around 1:00, into the default settings of the Jazz chorus model on the axe fx. I feel like a dick running a distortion pedal into a clean axe fx, but i guess what works, works.
     
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  2. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    Yeah, decided to get the breakout board this time. It was definitely nice, and I will probably order one from any place that offers them to match their other PCBs every time. It just took triple-checking to make sure I put it on right.

    I have the Triple Wreck, but it requires 1/8W resistors, so I will probably wait a bit and do a few others I got first. I got the VH4 also, but will probably wait until the official build doc is ready. I got several easier ones to do, so I will probably do some of them first.

    I have been mostly using the clean channel on my Triple Rectifier, so it is just as weird to run a distortion pedal into the clean of an amp known for its distortion, lol.

    I did briefly try 18V with my Dr. Boogie the other day. I wasn't feeling great at the time, so I am not sure if that had something to do with it, but I definitely noticed it was twice as loud, twice as tight, had twice as much bass, but also had twice as much fizzy/fuzzy highs that I dont like. I want to try it some more because I heard some improvements, but dont like that weird fuzzy clipping pedals can have in the treble. It definitely brought that out. It could have just needed dialed down also. I also tried some other JFETs, but ended up back with my originals. Stock is J201s. I tried a MPF102, and it sounded like a broken bitcrushed fuzz pedal. It was awful. I also tried a 1N5457. It actually did allow me to turn the gain up 1-2 more notches, but it still had a dramatic amount of gain. However, it brought out more of that weird high treble clipping sound also, so I put the J201s back in. They have crazy gain, but seem to have the best low end chunk, without high end nasty clipping presence.

    I found another site that has a TC Elec Int Pre with built in 18V Charge Pump IC, so I am gonna grab one of those when they are back in stock. You guys talking about them so much makes me want one, lol.
     
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  3. zilla

    zilla Grand Poobah

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    Just curious where you sourced your j201 jfet from? Because the thtough hole versions are obsolete there are a shit tone of fake and/or out of spec ones out there. It’s easy to get duped and you’ll have a shitty sounding pedal to boot.
     
  4. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    Sounds like maybe it might need biasing for whichever voltage you choose? I've always noticed more clarity, less compression, and less distortion in the bottom end when I go higher voltage.

    I think I'm gonna end up just doing standing-up resistors in those 1/8th watt resistor holes. Hopefully not too cramped to work with.

    Also if that integrated pre PCB is at rullywow, they've been out of stock for a long time, I emailed him back before I made my first one to see if he was planning to get it back in stock, but never received a reply.

    I decided to start a clone of a custom badass modified OD yesterday. Certainly a bigger circuit than other tubescreamers. I have the board done and the enclosure drilled and painted, I just need to mount everything. If I can't do it today I'll probably have time tomorrow.
     
  5. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    I got them from Small Bear:

    http://www.smallbear-electronics.mybigcommerce.com/transistor-fet-j201-generic/

    I actually have several I bought like 10 years ago also. I used the new ones I bought, but have thought about trying the old ones I have.
     
  6. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    It might need re-biased for 18V. I have it biased at 5V, because I thought it sounded better than the 4.5V they say. I could also just need to turn the presence knob down, lol.

    I have noticed before that usually the 1/8W to too far apart to stand up straight (usually angled), but too close for 1/4W. I have 3-4 different projects that need 1/8W, so I plan on just doing a large order of them, once I sit down and figure out everything I need for multiple projects. I also have some for 30-40 different values, so I need to figure out what I am missing. I got some vibe and chorus pedals and such that use them.

    Yeah, I mean Rullywow. I saw a Facebook post on 12/3 that said "restock soon", so hopefully soon. I know his Breakout boards were out of stock, but just became in stock last night. Probably waiting on his PCB vendor.

    I want a BAOD also... but, I will probably just pick up a used one for $50. :)
     
  7. zilla

    zilla Grand Poobah

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    Technically you shouldn’t have to to rebias. The trimmers are just voltage dividers and still give the proper voltage splitting. You might want to rebias because you now have a lot more headroom and might be able to hear things that you didn’t hear before.
     
  8. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    I got the CMBOD all assembled, it apears to be working, except when I turn the gain past about half way, there's this weird whistle-like sound on top of the gain. Real weird. I don't plan on ever running it that high, but it's still a problem. The layout was verified so I assume it's a problem of mine. I'll have to check it out later as I'm about to go out. My impressions from 3 minutes of playing was that it is very tight and aggressive sounding. If a used one is only $50 or so I may just pick one up also.

    Only parts subs I made was a BC550C in place of the MPSA18 recomended, TI RC4558 in place of whatever IC was recomended, and I think a 220nf in place of a 250nf cap.
     
  9. zilla

    zilla Grand Poobah

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    Whistling at high gain is pretty common with high gain pedals.

    You need to use shielded cables or check your wiring. Don’t run in and out wires close to each other, etc
     
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  10. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    I'll check where my wires are when I get home, it's a rats nest at the moment, and I haven't stuck the back on yet. It isn't really that high gain though, it'd just an overdrive at the end of the day. Also noticable when testing through a clean channel.

    I'll see if I can record a clip at some point in the next couple days if I can't find an obvious cause, it's hard to describe.
     
  11. zilla

    zilla Grand Poobah

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    Which pedal is this? If it’s an overdrive it’s unlikely that you have enough gain to give feedback like that.

    Good wire management is usually the easiest way to ensure no/minimal feedback. Also you said that the enclosure if open - noise will be reduced when you get the back cover in.... just make sure that the enclosure is grounded... it’s usually fine if there is bare metal around where the jacks are mounted so the case is grounded thru the jacks
     
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  12. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    Copy of the MXR custom badass modified OD, which I think is SD1-based.

    I'll get it closed and see if that changes it but I doubt it, it's more like a strange characteristic of the drive. I also I'll check all my traces and make sure there are no shorts or bad joints.
     
  13. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    I ordered a crapload of 1/8W resistors today, so I should have plenty of resistors for either 1/8W or 1/4W builds.
     
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  14. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    My Dr. Boogie will have a squeal if the gain is up too high, and the treble is up too high. It is like self-osculation, which is pretty common on that design. Mine pretty much falls in the unusable range, so not worried about it too much. Oddly enough, it has gotten better since I first built it. I did notice that putting a buffered pedal (SD-1) in front of it made it all go away, even when that pedal is turned off.

    Yeah, I will probably grab a used one eventually. It is cheap enough, yet complex enough, that I haven't felt the need to clone that one. Things like the Rat I dont mind, because even through they are cheap, they are super-simple. Also, I have a MXR Classic OD, which is a cheap version of the GT-OD, and the BAOD is basically a GT-OD with that 100hz Gyrator circuit added.
     
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  15. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    I forgot all about that input buffer trick, I stuck a bypassed boss pedal in front of it, no more weird sizzly whistle on higher 'gain' settings.

    I guess it must be a problem with the pedals buffer, I guess I really do need that MPSA18 transistor.

    I'll take some pics tomorrow, I still need to add the indicator LED, and it's late now so I can't be bothered.
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2017
  16. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    I finished up the CBMOD copy today after work, added the LED. I've ordered some MPSA18 and MPSA14 transistors off ebay, so I can see if that changes that weird noise I get when I use the pedal without an external buffer before it, I'll update when they arrive. Not sure how much a malfunctioning input buffer can affect the sound of a pedal, so I guess we'll find out. If it doesn't fix the problem, then it will be an error somewhere else in my construction, presumably surrounding the pedal's buffer.

    This was the weather over the weekend, so plenty of time to stay inside and solder stuff.

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    Enclosure all measured and marked for drilling

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    Drilled. Yes, I forgot the LED hole, I did it after paint.

    IMG_0517.JPG

    I'm surprised the paint actually stuck seeing as I sprayed it outside in the snow in freezing weather. First coat dried in a couple minutes, then about a half hour for each subsequent coat to dry. For reference, in the summer each coat is dry in like 5 or 10 minutes, and thats an english summer.

    populated

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    It was a real pain fitting all these wires in. I think for anything with more than 4 controls in the future, I'm gonna try to go PCB, or use a larger enclosure.

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    As far as sound goes, I have to say, its a super tight and clear overdrive. Its competing with my Integrated Preamp for tightness and clarity. If I knew an overdrive could be this tight and punchy, I would have bought one of them years ago. That 100 hz control is super cool for getting a bit extra tightness in the sound, though its still pretty tight even at noon. A lot tighter than a standard tubescreamer, and the clipping sounds better for metal, must be because its asymmetrical rather than symmetrical like with a tubescreamer.

    I still prefer the Gridslammer / tubescreamer clone for my RG8 but thats because its a particularly bright and twangy guitar, and it needs a smoother, less tight overdrive to sound its best. Otherwise it's just way over the top.

    The only downside I can see to this pedal is I can't really get rid of that tightness, so if you've already got a real tight amp and a real tight guitar, then this might just be too much.
     
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  17. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    Looks good! I have never actually played the BAOD, but I think I would love it. I have the SD-1, Green Rhino, and GT-OD, so I have like every variation of it's close cousin without actually owning one, lol. Yeah, turning down that 100HZ control can make things super tight. That is actually what I like the Green Rhino for. That super tight, clanky, older Meshuggah type tone. Hopefully the different transistor will help the squealing. You might try shielded cable on the input and output since they run the length of the pedal.

    I have been working on the Klon clone. I have everything done except wiring it inside the enclosure. I had to get creative with some cap values.
     
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  18. mnemonic

    mnemonic Custom User Title

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    I've never played a Klon, I'm not even sure what they're supposed to be like. Be sure to let us know your thoughts on it.

    Looking at the controls of the Green Rhino it looks like it's probably the same deal as the M77 but tubescreamer-based rather than SD1-based. I haven't looked at schematics but I bet the main difference is probably the clipping type.
     
  19. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    I have never played a Klon either, but I figure why not build one. :) I think it is suppose to be somewhere between a Tubescreamer and a Transparent boost. It is not quite flat, but not as mid boosted as a TS.

    Yes, I think they took ideas from the Green Rhino when they designed the BAOD. I do think 2 diodes vs 3 diodes is the main difference from what I have seen before. Not sure how that bump switch compares with the curve knob though.
     
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  20. Shask

    Shask SS.org Regular

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    I got my Klon clone done today, but I haven't labeled or put it together yet. It is working, but the battery power is not. I found that I used the wrong type of input jack, so I had to order the correct one. I only got to try it for about 5 minutes, but it reminds me of a transparent booster where you can add some gritty, aggressive hair to the treble. It does not have the smooth treble like a Tubescreamer. It can get harsh with high settings of treble. I will have to play with it some more, but it is interesting. It is kind of in the same category as the Timmy clone that I have.

    Overall I have been impressed with the PCBs from this place. All of the pedals I have completed have worked the first time, which is amazing.

    I am thinking about doing the Triple Wreck clone next. Maybe the Bluesbreaker. :lol:
     
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