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Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by VikingAxe, Nov 3, 2014.
It won't be a problem with the machine. Its always possible that they will twist.
Who here has experience with fashioning a compound Radius? LMII won't do them...should I stick with the 16"? I do like a compound...just not sure about a 7 string.
Also, for the truss rod access cavity...what bit size would you route that with?
i order my FB blanks from LMII i recently stopped getting them pre radiused because it just wasnt worth the money. you end up doing a fair bit more after you get them anyways. I just tell them to give me a normal slotted board with deep slots. Also be descriptive, they are extremely good at choosing out particular boards based on your description.
I had a wonderful experience with LMI. I got a FB pre slotted, no radius. I don't like clamping a FB to a neck if there's a radius, due to needing some kind of caul to get even pressure. If you have a radius beam it's no issue, but I don't.
This type of sanding jig looks very effective and is capable of doing compound radius designs.
Grizzly Guitar Fretboard Radiusing Sander
I purchased a compound radius FB from here:http://www.birkonium.com/product/custom-faux-bound-fretboard-machining/ I got an ebony one without the faux binding (fret slots all the way the the edge)
The slots are clean, precise and the board itself seems to be good quality.
I had considered the clamping issue as Renkenstein mentioned and hope to get around this with these: STEWMAC.COM - Fingerboard Band Clamp
Although, I haven't put this together as of yet. I hope to as soon as I can get better acquainted with the new hand plane.
In my opinion you don't need a special clamping caul for radiused boards. I'm using a pair of metal bars which provide even pressure and never had an issue with it.
In regard to using carbon fiber rods on a 6 : Multi-laminate necks are stiff enough that the trussrod has a hard time turning that thing in case of backbow/frontbow. I believe it still needs to be a bit flexible just because of that, so there's no need to overdo it
That is a brilliant method and one I'd employ if I had to glue a radiused board.
It's basically how I tackled it. I just used short pieces of wood under each one instead of a long running pair, though.