Alright, goodies delivered = rapidfire updates are back. Last of the important stuff is in, thanks to ye' ol' adminishredder. Shipment complete with CQ picks and the scent of scrotum, which means this is authentic. Glue dried/cured, so it was time to take another swing at the truss rod. Much happier with the new fitment. Most of the rest of the day was dedicated to fretboard schtuff. Input one 'blacker than Dick Cheney's soul' piece of ebony. I tried a new CAM carving profile this time. My old one was, I believe, all 3D adaptive and a horizontal parallel process but the 3D adaptive took some deeper than I'd prefer passes and the stepover on the parallel passes made it a long process to get it cleaned. So I tried 3D pocket clearing and widthwise parallel clearing instead. I'm super happy with it this way. This should give you an idea of the tool marks you need to get out. I also included a snap of how I mount when I glue to the table. Super glue and accelerant, bonds in 2 or 3 seconds. After this, onto the fold-up bench to hit it with some elbow grease. 16" radius block with 60 grit paper for fast clearing. I have that glued to the block and I use the grip of the sand paper to hold each successive grit. Sand up to 220 and it's soft smoooooth (just like-a silk-a). I have fret slotting CNC bits, but they break easy and they take a while. I have an old school 'Randy's secret weapon' rig I use for slotting that still does it faster and more reliable than anything else. It's an old 'overhead' sliding miter saw with a .023" screw slotting blade and a jig I threw together. The board sticks to a notched slotting template, and an indexing pin locks into each position. The saw needs the slide oiled every use to move freely but otherwise it's pretty seamless and fast. The slots come out clean but they don't go super deep, so I clear out each slot by hand with a fret saw. I've got the HF cutoff saw and it's insane value, I've been using the same one for ~12 years. This deepens, slightly widens the slot and the manual sawing lets me follow the radius, which gets you the depth you need for the fret tang without cutting too deep and losing rigidity in the fretboard. Fretboard still needs inlays but they're on their way. Allparts shipment showed up without them because they're on back order, so I ordered them from elsewhere. MOP. Not sure what I did wrong in my neck programming but the contour came out ~1/32" wider than the template, so I'm going to sand that down to narrow it up a little better. Face of the headstock can use some thickness sanding before the tuners go in, and a little cleanup from the truss rod fill. I cleaned up some of the tearout on the fingers of the body carve. I had a little more hand carving left before I snapped the flexshaft on my Dremel, replacement just came in yesterday so fine carving left to do with that.