Input on an explorer/destroyer build...possible fanned fret

laxu

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I think that would be pretty cool as a multiscale. I like the surf green color too. However, the headstock looks too small against the body to me, would probably look better if it was a bit wider on each side.

Also for 7+ strings instead of reverse headstock I would go with 3/4 a side design because in my experience reverse headstock can accentuate strings ringing in the headstock end.
 

M3CHK1LLA

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Hey guys! I've been following this thread for a few days now and I have to say- I'm really enjoying the feedback, so thanks to everyone! M3CHK1LLA has kindly invited me to chime in, and so I will.

The Exploder is a pretty big departure from my usual aesthetic, but I've grown to really love it. My personal fave is surf green with ivoroid binding, chrome hardware, pearl dots, and natural back... but I'm a sucker for surf green and vintage-y stuff so take that for whatever it's worth :)

Close second- all white, black binding and hardware, no inlays. To be honest though, I think that this design would look pretty good with any of the ideas mentioned in this thread.

As for the shape/proportions, I modeled it fairly closely after the '58 Explorer's dimensions, though they don't share any lines...good thing is, it'll definitely fit in any Explorer case you care to pick up (that said, I do include a pretty badass case). I'd like to keep it as-is, it's taken a loooooong time for me to finally land on an 'extreme' shape that I'm proud to show.

I'm also currently planning out the 7 and 8 string variants of the Exploder, just in case anyone might have an interest.

thanks for popping in. good to know it will fit in an explorer case. as far as the shape...i love it.

also, i'm sure plenty of people here would love to see a 7 or 8 variant as would I.


A matte seafoam green front on a natural Ash back with cream pickups would be amazing.

i like the matte seafoam finish idea instead of glossy...not sure how much more trouble that would be to do.



I would prefer glossy with just a matte neck backside like on my Schecter Hybrid. But the color combination is a great idea ... and chrome hardware and creme binding, but I'm unsure about the fretboard ... maple?

if i go darkside (black binding/black hardware/pups ect) would prob get ebony fret board. if i go light, maple would look great but with some dark inlays of some sort.



I'm intrigued by an 8 string version.

me too :yesway:

and a 7 too
 

KnightroExpress

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@M3CH - 2D blueprints for the 7 and 8 versions (straight and multi) are done, working on 3D models now.

Matte vs. glossy is a simple clearcoat swap and doesn't require any buffing on my part, so by all means, go matte haha. Really man, it's up to you- I'm happy to do whatever you decide.

@IGC - Thank you! My usual multi scale lengths are 25-26 for 6 string, 25.75-27 for 7 string, 26.5-28 for 8 string. In each case, the parallel is shifted to make the bridge angle hit 18 degrees, which feels the most natural (in my opinion, anyway).

Here's a few sample renders of the multi 8 Exploder:






 

KnightroExpress

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Thanks guys!

Just FYI, I already have a nickel multi 8 bridge and matching tuners...I just need some surf green paint and you ;)
 

M3CHK1LLA

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@M3CH - 2D blueprints for the 7 and 8 versions (straight and multi) are done, working on 3D models now.

Matte vs. glossy is a simple clearcoat swap and doesn't require any buffing on my part, so by all means, go matte haha. Really man, it's up to you- I'm happy to do whatever you decide.

@IGC - Thank you! My usual multi scale lengths are 25-26 for 6 string, 25.75-27 for 7 string, 26.5-28 for 8 string. In each case, the parallel is shifted to make the bridge angle hit 18 degrees, which feels the most natural (in my opinion, anyway).

Here's a few sample renders of the multi 8 Exploder:


URL][/QUOTE]

thanks for posting those. the walnut looks great too. what color is that blue?
 

KnightroExpress

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Any time, and thank you! The blue is actually Tiffany Blue (or as close as I could match it, anyway).
 

M3CHK1LLA

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ok, lets try this if you don't mind...

6 string fan fret
tiffany blue top / dark mahogany back & sides / black binding
reverse matching headstock w/black binding
pups slanted (not set on what yet)
black hardware
dark ebony fretboard no fret markers (maybe a 12th, just not sure)
 

KnightroExpress

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You got it! I'll have to start a fresh model to incorporate the HS binding and angled pickups, but I want to at least post a few renders with the color combo requested.

Tiffany blue, dark mahogany, black binding/hardware:






I've been meaning to ask here- what do you think of the switch position? I feel that the treble horn switch is an Explorer/Destroyer style must-have, but if people prefer a more condensed control layout, it can be dropped.
 

KnightBrolaire

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Any chance you could mock up an 8 with a limba top?
personally I prefer the switch back near the bridge. Always felt it was a waste of space to put it on the horn.
 

Aymara

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Just a hint to think of:

In my opinion the volume knob shouldn't be placed parallel to the bridge, because I have this on my Mayones and it is in the way, when palm muting ... I have long fingers. Therefore I would place it 2cm further back, nearer to the tone knob.

I don't know, what is the origin of this very common design flaw, because palm muting is a very common technique, especially in Metal.
 

M3CHK1LLA

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thanks for that last render...i love it!

i have 1 or 2 more ideas to bounce off you later



Just a hint to think of:

In my opinion the volume knob shouldn't be placed parallel to the bridge, because I have this on my Mayones and it is in the way, when palm muting ... I have long fingers. Therefore I would place it 2cm further back, nearer to the tone knob.

I don't know, what is the origin of this very common design flaw, because palm muting is a very common technique, especially in Metal.


glad you caught that...

my kirk hammett prototype esp custom shop has the volume knob in the same place and i constantly turn the volume down when palm muting :lol:
 

Aymara

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i constantly turn the volume down when palm muting :lol:

Thankfully that never happened to me, but being unable to streighten the pinky, when palm muting is annoying enough.

As I said, I'm astonished how many guitars have this design flaw ... as if they were designed by non-guitarists or builders with small hands :D

Joking aside ... it seems, that many guitarists don't streighten the pinky, when palm muting. That is the only logical explanation, I can think of.
 

KnightroExpress

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Any chance you could mock up an 8 with a limba top?
personally I prefer the switch back near the bridge. Always felt it was a waste of space to put it on the horn.

No problem, I'll get going on it today. I think I'm going to adjust the switch position as well...vastly simplifies the wiring channels.

Just a hint to think of:

In my opinion the volume knob shouldn't be placed parallel to the bridge, because I have this on my Mayones and it is in the way, when palm muting ... I have long fingers. Therefore I would place it 2cm further back, nearer to the tone knob.

I don't know, what is the origin of this very common design flaw, because palm muting is a very common technique, especially in Metal.

I don't know if 'flaw' is the right word, but I definitely see what you mean. And so what if I have small hands? :D

thanks for that last render...i love it!

i have 1 or 2 more ideas to bounce off you later

glad you caught that...

my kirk hammett prototype esp custom shop has the volume knob in the same place and i constantly turn the volume down when palm muting :lol:

I love trying out new ideas! I wouldn't have come up with that last one, it's pretty hot. I'm going to adjust the volume knob and selector switch positions on the next one as well.
 

Aymara

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I don't know if 'flaw' is the right word, but I definitely see what you mean. And so what if I have small hands? :D

Well, then you're lucky ... and that's why I call it a design flaw, because it's usability is dependent on the player's finger length. A good design though is independent from the player's hand or finger size, right?
 


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