How hard would it be to add a veneer to this guitar?

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by wannabguitarist, Sep 21, 2015.

  1. wannabguitarist

    wannabguitarist Contributor

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    [​IMG]

    I took my fusion apart a few weeks ago to finally paint the cavities (guitar was red originally) and re-wax the body. Now that it's also 100% done I'm trying to find new way to potentially .... it up :lol:.

    I'm thinking spalted maple if I can find some. My only concerns are getting the veneer over the forearm curves and about the edges of the veneer looking rough (could that be fixed with fake/painted on binding?). I'm trying to keep the natural look since I love how the current tung oil finish feels.
     
  2. UnderTheSign

    UnderTheSign SS.org Regular

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    It'd have been a smarter move to veneer it before re-waxing :lol:

    Shouldn't be too hard, as long as you know how to work veneer. I don't like spalted veneers because spalted wood tends to be brittle and it could break trying to bend it over the arm contour though.

    If you shape the veneer properly after glueing it on, roughness shouldn't be too much of a problem. Just sand down the last mm or so.

    Sand the front of the body down, bookmatch your veneers properly (or use a one piece) and glue it on. If it's a bolt on, take off the neck first so you can use a sheet of mdf/plywood to even out the pressure and come up with a way to maintain pressure on the contour as well.
     
  3. UV7BK4LIFE

    UV7BK4LIFE Schecter A7 addict

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    For the flat top it's not hard, but veneering the contour can be a challenge. The veneer might break.
     
  4. AxeHappy

    AxeHappy SS.org Regular

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    With some veneer softener that contour will be a breeze. It's mild enough that even steam might work, but I prefer to soften the entire veneer anyways.
     
  5. BillNephew

    BillNephew SS.org Regular

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    As AxeHappy said, veneer softener will do the trick to make it go along the contour. Gluing it evenly is also a major element, sandbags weighing down the veneer will work perfectly for this purpose.
     
  6. wannabguitarist

    wannabguitarist Contributor

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    I've been putting this off for well over a year now :lol:

    I'm gonna go ahead with this project since I need to rewire the guitar and touch up some areas with play wear. Any tips on using veneer softener or ways to bend around the forearm contour? I'm going to use the thinnest veneer I can get ahold of to make blending the edges easier.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. jarnozz

    jarnozz Let´s Get Wasted!

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    here is how I do it.
    -make sure the veneer is bookmatched.
    -cut to rough size.
    -draw a center line on the guitar.
    -apply glue to the body and veneer (the kind that reacts to heat while still tacky).
    -put the veneer on dead square to that line.
    -get an iron and damp towel.
    -put the towel over the iron.
    -start fron the center and work your way outwards.
    -keep the towel damp.
    -you basically iron out all air pockets gently.
    -the forarm contour will be a breeze as this is not an archtop. those are a pain in the ass.
    -let it cure.
    -remove access veneer.
    -all done!

    *edit I did not notice the contour on the lower horn. that is pretty much impossible to do using this method.
    or leave it if the final finish will match up with mahony
     
  8. wannabguitarist

    wannabguitarist Contributor

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    Thanks! I was going to leave the lower the lower arm contour mahogany, Just trim the excess veneer away and sand as smooth of a seam as I can between the two.
     
  9. TuffyKohler

    TuffyKohler sawdust generator

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    Should be pretty straight forward. Go for it.

    The biggest issue you will probably have is getting a good seam between the bookmatched pieces of veneer. Spend some time getting that seam tight. Tape the seam together during install.

    I've used titebond for applying veneer. Just brush on light coats on both surfaces, let it dry for about 15-20 minutes, then iron the veneer on. You can get special glue for veneering too, I have some and have used it. Titebond and an iron are just as good.

    I made a 2x12 cabinet awhile back and veneered it. It was the first time I've messed with veneers. I used softener on this, and I would recommend it to make the job easier. This was really wavy Makore, so I had to soften it or else it would have cracked everywhere getting it to lay flat.


    Veneer ready for glue

    [​IMG]

    Titebond brushed on.

    [​IMG]

    Veneer ironed on.

    [​IMG]

    and finished.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. wannabguitarist

    wannabguitarist Contributor

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    I actually found a piece of burled redwood that's the perfect size to be used without book matching. I still might get a second cut to book match it but I like the idea of what looks like a one piece top.

    What do you mean by ironing the veneer on? Like with a clothes iron?
     

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  11. TuffyKohler

    TuffyKohler sawdust generator

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    yup, a clothes iron. set to a low-med temp.
     

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