Help me, i'm dyeing!

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by Djentliman, Jun 6, 2015.

  1. Djentliman

    Djentliman wants a diff name!

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    Hey guys!



    So I finally have the resources to properly finish my Jackson Rhoads. First things first, I will be fixing these absolutely horrid pickup routes that I butchered about four or five years ago. :fawk:[​IMG]
    I'm going to start anew and route them into a rectangle and reroute them direct mount style whenever I get them filled with a hardwood from home depot.

    Then after all that headache is dealt with, I will be applying this gorgeous quilted maple veneer that I received from veneersupplies.com. [​IMG]

    Showing off the part I want to use for the guitar. [​IMG]

    Alright! Enough dilly dallying, I decided I want to do this finish:
    [​IMG]

    aaaaaaand was wondering where I might acquire the proper dyes. I know aniline and water soluble is the kind I want, I just don't know where! What are the easiest to work with? Which one gives you the best results? Things like this will be very helpful!

    Oh! And one more thing, do you think they did the black and sand back trick or do you think they used a different color like a darker blue as the sand back color?

    With Regards,
    Keegan McDonald
     
    Zhysick likes this.
  2. BlackMastodon

    BlackMastodon \m/ (゚Д゚) \m/ Contributor

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    I don't have any experience with water-based dyes but I've used the alcohol-based ones from LMII and really like them.
    Aniline Dyes Alcohol Soluble

    As for how to get that sort of finish, it looks like they dyed black then sanded back (could also try with a very very dark blue but I feel like the results wouldn't be too different), then dyed with a turquoise/aqua blue and then finished the burst with a more deep blue.

    I recommend trying different methods on the scrap pieces of veneer that you get rid of from cutting away. Be careful when you sand back from black, though because if the veneer is thin enough then it'll sand right through.

    Also, grade A pun in the title. :cool:
     
  3. Zhysick

    Zhysick SS.org Regular

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    I can't help with the subject in question but I'm here just to say that you nailed it with the title.
     
  4. pondman

    pondman Build Whore.

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    I'm only talking from my own experience but when a the veneer is glued on, some of the glue will seep through to the surface in one way or another.
    This can create a light or blank spot when dying the surface so be careful not to apply too much glue and let it dry a little before attaching.

    I usually use Dylon clothes dye and mix it with 50% hot water and clear methylated spirit.

    These are ok as well - LIBERON CONCENTRATED WATER BASED WOOD DYE 15ml CHOICE 8 COLOURS | eBay



    Aniline Dye - 5 Aniline Dye Colors - Dye Stain - Wood Stain Dye | eBay
     
  5. Djentliman

    Djentliman wants a diff name!

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    Thank you everybody for the replies! I don't know if I can come up with another pun as monumental as that! :lol:

    Is it safe to scrape off the excess with a credit card until a thin layer is left?
     
  6. dankarghh

    dankarghh SS.org Regular

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    I could be wrong, but I remember watching a carvin factory tour, and they do most of this sorta stuff in the spray booth. I'm sure you could get similar results either way though.
     
  7. pondman

    pondman Build Whore.

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    As long as you get enough on both surfaces it doesn't really matter how you do it.
    I prefer to use my finger.
     
  8. Solodini

    Solodini MORE RESTS!

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    ;)
     
  9. pondman

    pondman Build Whore.

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    :eek::ugh:
     
  10. BlackMastodon

    BlackMastodon \m/ (゚Д゚) \m/ Contributor

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    I'd actually stay away from using your finger to spread the glue around. The oil on your skin may mess up the connection. That may be me being paranoid but it just seems like a small thing that can be avoided. Also it's less messy. :lol:
     
  11. A-Branger

    A-Branger SS.org Regular

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    I would say no. Doing the black, sand, and color dye it will make the dark parts way more darker, if not actually black. Like the PRS Holcomb colors.

    that jackson one, is just normal process. See the photo of the veneer, its has already deep difference on the grain color. it would get more accentuated once the dye and the clear coat goes in. Grab a wet cloth and pass it over the raw wood and it would give you the deep 3D contrast that you would get at the end.

    go to youtube, there is few videos of PRS factory guys doing dye and burst.


    Also correct me if Im wrong here ppl. But another way to give more contrast look without going for the "black/sanded/dye" is to use an amber color first instead of the black.
     
  12. BlackMastodon

    BlackMastodon \m/ (゚Д゚) \m/ Contributor

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    ^I think the amber method is for natural finish, especially for maple, but I could be wrong.
     
  13. A-Branger

    A-Branger SS.org Regular

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    I know I saw it on a vid ages ago, but didnt remember if it was for just natural finish or to give more contrast in the grain without using the black
     
  14. pondman

    pondman Build Whore.

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    With a quilt like that I wouldn't really worry, it'll look knock-out whatever finish you use.
     

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