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Discussion in 'Sevenstring Guitars' started by Crash Dandicoot, Nov 18, 2020.
Yeah, just do this. I have several times.
Did anyone get a GE1996T-7 or know what the deal is with these? (Before I email Gotoh)
Their Instagram has a comment saying they are ready to ship, but I can't find any to buy.
Looks like these are shipping - has anyone tried one yet?
Builds planned for it but only tried the 6 string version which at least in my experience has proven better than an OFR
I have a couple of the six-string ones and I agree with your assessment.
I also have the 510FB and 510FX-6 fixed bridges, both excellent
They have all the specs up on the website.
- Can anyone answer if it's a Lo Pro drop in replacement yet?
- Is the base plate hardened steel?
- What does "specially processed" steel saddle mean?
Unless the Lo Pro bridge runs the Stud-Lock posts I doubt that it is a drop-in replacement.
It is a drop-in replacement for the Floyd Rose 1000, 1500, and German made models, except for the posts and inserts.
I would put a BIG asterisk next to drop in for those, yes it maybe but if you plan on using the Gotoh studs you may need some modifications due to their size compared to OFR studs if you want to maintain the original bridge position.
Replacing my OFR the front edge of my Floyd route had to move forward to allow the Gotoh studs to go down in to the original stud holes.
Just some info for anyone thinking about that
@cip 123 In my circumstance with the two OFR to Gotoh swaps (including studs) I've done, no realignment was needed. I had to file a narrow 20-ish degree angle off the low and high E saddle outer edges to clear the head of the studs, but honestly speaking they were barely touching. I did it more just to be safe, I think.
You can kind of see what I'm talking about on the high E saddle there. One point about the swap though, I had to remove the original stud inserts and bore them out slightly to fit the locking studs. Not a big deal but it might be outside of your average player's comfort zone.
The trick with people asking if x bridge will fit y route is that the routes and stud alignment have tolerances and each manufacturer has their own quirks with the initial process. Won't know until one does it first hand, I suppose.
I had my tech fit the larger stud inserts. I had no desire to set the intonation anyway so I just took it to him as he has a lot of experience. He didn't have to file anything but on both guitars the larger inserts were very close to the edge of the rout. The adjustment screws were also barely clearing at the back. But nothing needed to be modified besides one guitar that came with a cheap Schecter licensed FR needed some routing and the other one needed hardwood dowels for the stud inserts to go into because the wood on the Schecter C-1 Blackjack SLS FR-S (2014 model) is pretty soft and keeps threatening to strip out, which did actually happen when I installed a Tremol-No claw so he had to put more dowels into the body for those. If a guitar has your standard FR 1000 size rout and decent body wood simply enlarging the post holes and fitting new inserts is all the modding needed.
Here is a photo of the C-1. You'll notice that clearance is fairly tight, but everything clears.
Just a curiosity, did those of you who swapped a floyd for the gotoh find it worth it? Any tangible benefits?
Nah. I've only ever done it because a guitar needed a new bridge and the quality to price on the Gotoh units has always been best.
They don't function or sound or whatever any different from OFRs or Edges.
Just good, feature packed bridges you can usually get cheaper than the Schaller made stuff.
I swapped out perfectly good OFRs simply because I like how the Gotoh feels (saddle design, angle of fine tuners, trem arm, etc.). No real sound or playability benefit other than improved (subjective) comfort. The only real tangible benefit would be the locking studs, which I greatly prefer. That's a bit more in-depth than a in-and-out bridge swap but IMO they're one of the best things about the GE1996T / Edge series bridges. I cannot fathom why OFRs haven't made them standard.
What's the benefit of locking studs? Do they actually move on their own when unlocked?
They can drift, especially if you use the bar to dive a lot.
But, you can get almost identical results waxing threads of non-locking posts, so I wouldn't base my decision on that specific feature.
Lubricated knife edges/posts is definitely the way to go (locking studs or not). Anecdotally speaking I've never had to replace Gotoh/Edge locking studs due to wear but I have replaced a few OFR studs that have stripped and some inserts that became untrue over time. Next time you do a string change on your OFR take a look at how the studs behave as you bring it up to tension. They move ever so slightly, and while realistically there isn't enough consistent pressure or vibration at those points to make the aforementioned stud/insert issues happen, to say it's not a contributing factor wouldn't be accurate, either. I'm sure some professional dive-bombers would make a dent in them faster than others.
All I know is every additional component that locks down in a double-locking trem setup is a benefit. Not mandatory, but nice to have.
The radius is 14” on the Gotoh compared to the 10 on OFR which was my first benefit.
The fine tuners on the Gotoh also seem more accurate.
I don’t know about any other benefits off the top of my head but over all like it a lot better than the OFR and it’s a much better price.
Yup. Probably not worth the hassle of replacing an FR-1000 or OFR for one of these. I swapped an FR-1000 for an OFR and although there is some difference, definetely not worth 300€ + labour (I only did it because I got a great deal on an OFR7 and sold the FR-1000).
The Gotoh will be the perfect candidate for a FR Special replacement, though. Since these are cheaper than Floyd Rose models and apparently equal or better quality.
New production MIJ Jacksons are already using these, which is a very good sign. If Japanese factories start to use them OEM in their guitars it will be easier to get replacement parts in the future I guess.
7-String OFR is actually 20" radius with a 15" nut. Mine are shimmed accordingly.
I'm not sure what the radius will be on the seven string version; it might be flatter than 14" ... shims are available anyway
The feel and quality of the Gotoh is far better than the FR 1000, and the knife edges etc are excellent. It also comes with a very nice brass block and I much prefer the tremolo arm. After using a GE1996T for two years on my main gigging guitar with absolutely ZERO problems and fantastic tuning stability I fitted one to another guitar that had a worn FR 1000.
Note that if the inserts of any FR are not seated properly or the wood is weak whammy bar use can eventually pull the inserts out of the guitar or, if the wood is especially thin and flimsy around the posts, crack the wood and tip the bridge over. Fit hardwood dowels if you are worried about the wood quality. My Blackjack just has a thin layer of hardwood around each insert after drilling, dowelling, drilling and fitting the inserts but that thin layer has done the trick.
Gotcha. I do setups every 6 months anyways being in New England so probably not a concern. I've used plenty of lo-pro edges and love them as well, I just found the lock a hassle.