Got an RG8, some questions about getting this beast set up

Discussion in 'Beginners/FAQ' started by ZeroS1gnol, Feb 9, 2021.

  1. ZeroS1gnol

    ZeroS1gnol SS.org Regular

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    Hey all,

    I snagged a second hand RG8FM as a first 8 string to see how I like it. I'm pleasantly surprised at the quality of this instrument. Even the pickups aren't horrible. That's a first for me and an Ibanez guitar.

    There are some things I'd like to get clear, so I can get it set up just right.

    1) Action on some of the strings make the saddle screws stick out a bit. I hate that, so looking to replace them with shorter screws. Are these height adjustment screws always the same size (length and or width), or does it differ per producer?
    2) Neck relief is a bit off the chart and that's probably also why the saddles are put a bit too low, so I had a go at adjusting the truss rod. Two full clockwise turns and a fair time of waiting and I don't really see any difference. My other guitars would react to the tiniest adjustment. So I am wondering, could this guitar have a dual action tross rod? Really don't know and wouldn't want to take out the neck pickup to find out if it's not necessary.
    3) I went ahead and ordered a D'addario 6 string+2 singles set, with a NW080 as the low F#. I didn't really think about whether that will be tapered and if I will have issues fitting it through the tuning peg. I dislike the idea of drilling it out. Currently it has a Ernie Ball 080, which in fact is tapered, but man do I hate Ernie Ball strings. Whaddayathink, will I have issues with the NW080? Any recommendations for other singles that can be purchased in Europe if the NW080 will not fit easily?
    4) Finally, the screws for the pickup selector switch are a bit worn and oxidated. I see online shops selling pickguard screws. Would these screws fit?
     
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  2. odibrom

    odibrom .

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    Most common screws vary on thread type (metric, imperial, or wood...), diameter, length, head and key. The ones you have at the saddles should be M2 or M3 (M for metric thread, 2 or 3 for millimeter diameter), headless screws, just find their size (length) and buy smaller ones.


    AFAIK, thse truss rods are not dual action. Check neck's relief pressing 1st and last fret (use a capo?) and measure the distance between the bottom of the bass string and the top of the 12th fret. Shouldn't be more than a credit card thick, if that much. If it is, just tighten that truss rod a bit more. Some necks are stiffer than others and the wider the neck is, the more wood the truss rod has to move, thus more resistance it will find. Make sensible changes each time, don't try to do it all in one go.


    Can't help you here...


    Pickguard screws are for wood threads, which is not what the switch screws go into. Like the saddle ones, take one out to you local hardware store and search for equal screws.
     
  3. lewis

    lewis SS.org Regular

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    1) its quite easy to cut/grind those down should you need them shorter. Saves money at least

    2) Most the guitars ive ever had never really responded that drastically to truss rod adjustment that I could notice haha. My old RG8 included.

    3) drilling out tuners is honestly the easiest thing in the world. Takes 2 seconds and you are done. You can also unwind a little of the outer layer of string and use just the inner core to put in the tuner. Its much thinner and goes through no problem.

    4) in my experience no. They are different thickness and also more a bolt rather than a screw, in the sense that the ends are squared off rather than go into a point like a screw does.
     
  4. ZeroS1gnol

    ZeroS1gnol SS.org Regular

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    Thanks for the tips!
     
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  5. foreright

    foreright SS.org Regular

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    For the screws you'll want "grub screws" for the bridge - as said above they'll likely be 3mm (ie. M3) size although you should probably measure them. They are cheap and easily purchasable from eBay in many lengths. The pickup selector screws will be countersunk machine bolts - I believe the ones I've used on my Ibanez style builds are M3x6 (ie. 3mm diameter, 6mm length) but you should measure. Length likely won't matter too much as long as they are long enough.
     
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  6. odibrom

    odibrom .

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    ... as far as Ibanez guitars go, all machine screws are metric, except for the pickup poles from American/British brands like DiMarzio and Seymour for example, which will be imperial.
     
  7. ixlramp

    ixlramp SS.org Regular

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    Height adjustment screws (usually 'M3 grub screws') are extremely cheap, much less bother that grinding down what you have.
    2 full turns is a dangerously excessive adjustment for a truss rod, especially if tightening, do not do this.
    This is highly likely to ruin a string by letting the outer wrap layer become loose.
     
  8. btbg

    btbg SS.org Regular

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    1) Yes. Holy fuck. Quarter turns!
    2) No. People do this all the time without issue.
     
  9. ZeroS1gnol

    ZeroS1gnol SS.org Regular

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    Let me give a little peace of mind, I didn't turn it all the way in one go. I did quarter turns, with plenty of time in between.
     

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