Dmlinger's 2019 Summer Build Challenge

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by dmlinger, Apr 25, 2019.

  1. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    OK...here we go!

    This is a stash I've had, but will use some of it for this challenge!

    Ash body blank - $17
    Maple neck blank - $4
    Ebony board - $9 (scored 5 of them for $45, amazing deal for quality stuff)
    The rest is TBD

    Got the body jointed, planed, jointed and glued tonight.

    [​IMG]

    Rosewood and ebony boards...mmmmm
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Extra wood pics of some rosewood I have for other builds...because wood.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. Deegatron

    Deegatron SS.org Regular

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    Looking excellent so far.... perhaps too excellent.... prepare for sabotage!!!!!
     
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  3. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    No sabotage...yet! Body routed. Next is to cut the tabs off on the bandsaw. Sand on OSS. Flush route the tabs to the body. 1/2 inch roundover route on back. Route binding channel. Glue Binding. Scrape binding. Rasp body and heel contours. Scrape. Sand. Sand. Sand. Grain fill. Sand some more. Paint! Whew!

    I hope to get the neck going tomorrow and will show the process I use for that.

    For the body, I joint one side and plane it to about 1/16" too thick. Then run a face operation in Fusion 360 CAM to take that 1/16 off. That ensures the face of the body is flat and perpendicular to the routes. The rear gets hand tool TLC.

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

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  4. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    Wanted to add...if you look at the blanks behind this body...my planer puts about 2 inches of snipe on the boards. Because of that, I make my body blanks a little long. Causes some waste but it’s minimal. My CAM origin is always bottom center top of the stock. Since the snipe is a few thousands lower than the bulk of the stock, I set my Z height towards the center of the stock. Then, when you “go to zero” the bit is just a smidge above the stock where the snipe is.

    Just a small detail but wanted to share.
     
  5. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Didnt know you were a cnc guy (or I forgot). Looking great so far!
     
  6. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    Yep, recently started. Haven’t finished a build with CNC yet. The pink guitar I posted was with templates I made.

    I really like CNC for the repeatability and speed...still hand carve all of the detail spots like the neck headstock and heel contours and belly cut. That body took just over an hour to cut. It would have taken much longer with the template and router.
     
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  7. MikeNeal

    MikeNeal SS.org Regular

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    What machine do you have?
     
  8. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    Openbuilds Lead 1010
     
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  9. KR250

    KR250 Build addict

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    Way cool, looking into that CNC machine. Is it all screw driven?
     
  10. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    That seems like a sweet machine. I love my shapeoko but it would be nice to not have to worry about belts slipping.
     
  11. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    Yes, all lead screw driven. It's a sturdy machine at a great price. Assembling it is also quite a bit of fun. Took about 16 hours to put together and the another few days to get the GRBL to work right
     
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  12. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    Bandsawed out the body and sanded the tabs close.
    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    I love this Bosch router bc it is a beast, but changing bits is a PITA.
    [​IMG]
    Testing the roundover on scrap
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    Looks good...let's do the body
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    Changing the bit (use an Amana rabbeting bit set...way cheaper than stewmac), and testing the height on the same scrap
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    [​IMG]
    The channel is a little deep so I adjusted the bit height once more (not pictured) and routed the body
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Happy so far. Need to glue the binding next. Will do that later today and hopefully start on the neck.
     
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  13. Randy

    Randy Sous Chef Super Moderator

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    Have had an ongoing problem with this that comes and goes. Belt tension seems to be the key but also a band aid. Seems like sawdust build-up (especially on the 'v' the delrin wheels ride on) causes strain and throws a lot of other stuff off pretty quick. I still need to come up with a satisfactory dust removal setup. The boot that most people use gets in the way too much (especially your view of the cut itself) to suit my taste.

    I mostly get the jumps in my 'X' and I've heard that could be not enough tension in the drive gear on that motor but it's hard to get to, the screw is TINY TINY (don't want to strip it) and I believe the shaft is rounded? Seems like a design flaw.

    Screw drive sounds good and somewhat universally 'better' but I have no idea how often you need to service it or what that would consist of.
     
  14. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    The dust boot does take some finagling but oh man does it ever help. I hardly have to clean anymore.
     
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  15. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    The maintenance I do on the Lead machine is adjusting v wheel tension. There are wheels on the top and bottom of each C beam so you have to make sure the bottom ones are snug. The top wheels are stable because of gravity. Eventually I’ll have to replace the wheels but it will be a while.

    It’s a sturdy machine. I don’t run it as hard as I could because I’m a wimp and don’t want to risk it
     
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  16. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    If my shapeoko ever goes ill have to look at this one. Though it sounds like there might be lead screw kits for the shapeoko, which would be CLUTCH.
     
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  17. Randy

    Randy Sous Chef Super Moderator

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    The 60"x40" has me REALLY interested, along with the 40"x40" laser
     
  18. dmlinger

    dmlinger SS.org Regular

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    Made a lot of progress this weekend.

    This is the tape I use to fix my blank to the spoilboard
    [​IMG]
    Doesn't take too much...sticky stuff but comes off easy.
    [​IMG]
    I use the same Index holes each time (until they wear out, and they get moved over)
    [​IMG]
    Blank gets taped in place and the same index holes get routed into the neck blank
    [​IMG]
    Then wooden dowels get pushed in. These index holes are along the center line of the neck...not the blank. That way you can do double sided operations.
    This is the profile roughed in.
    [​IMG]
    And a parallel smoothing tool path
    [​IMG]
    Then she gets flipped over with some more tape added to the bottom side.
    I always chuckle during the first operation...truss rod nuts will never be the same
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    You can see CNC still leaves a lot of cleanup work. I leave 0.2mm all around the neck. That gives room to hand sand and fit to the neck pocket. Like an idiot, I forgot to run the ball end bit tool path, so sanding the headstock transition will be a bitch.


    Then it is time to joint and thickness the fretboard. This Ebony is nice
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Lots and lots of dust!
    [​IMG]


    Fretboard radius, fret slots, nut slot, and a little fox inlay route coming up later this week.
     
  19. KR250

    KR250 Build addict

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    Damn! Looking really nice so far.
     
  20. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Love the workflow pics. Thanks for that.
     

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