Bugera 333 Help?

Discussion in 'Gear & Equipment' started by JerSim94, Dec 6, 2013.

  1. JerSim94

    JerSim94 Thallmeister General

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    I bought a Bugera 333 120-watt head from a man on craigslist for an unbeatable price. I figured that it would be a good purchase and I was wrong- it was a wonderful purchase. The amp's sound was killer and it was lasting through practices and gigs... but I use the word "was." While playing a show at a venue my band was working towards for a while, my amp- mid-intro on the first song- cut out. The lights turned off and I couldn't revive the thing, so I had to use a smaller amp from a kind previous band. :wallbash:
    I have since been trying to find out what the problem was. Here are the symptoms:
    > The amp will not turn on. I've tried using multiple different power plugs and the fuse is good.
    > On the back of the amp are the remnants of a void sticker, though vague (whatever the hell that means), and has a sticker saying that it was serviced at a store on March of 2012. The reasons for this service I do not know and I'm in the process of reaching out to the amp shop.
    At this point, I'm really not sure what to do, but I'm just hoping that there will be some way to fix some stuff and get this thing up and going. I can buy another amp (I'm eventually going to either invest in a Laney Ironheart or a POD HD Pro and HD500 pedalboard to go with) but I'd like to work with and keep this for recording and jamming purposes. Thanks for anyone who can help!
     
  2. CTID

    CTID SS.org Regular

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    My Peavey Valveking had a similar problem where it just cut out, and wouldn't turn on at all. Something on the circuit board came unsoldered. Cheaper tube amps can have this problem is my understanding, since the solder they use is garbage.
     
  3. WarMachine

    WarMachine SS.org Regular

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    Check youtube for repairing bugera tube heads. Im not being a smartass dude lol, i had a 6262 that did this once, found a vid on youtube that points out a plastic clip on the board where the leads go to, very, very simple fix. What happens is, sometimes those wires run really warm and going through the clip which is already thin as hell anyways and cause it to melt, breaking the circuit. You just pop the leads out with a flat screw driver and your good to go. Im not sure of the part number of the clips, but i do know that i ordered them from Newark, all the info was in the vid. Oh, and i got like a dozen for 0.04 each :lol: Good luck dude!
     
  4. JerSim94

    JerSim94 Thallmeister General

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    Thank you for the youtube tip, I somehow never thought of that haha. There aren't too many up on the 333 but I'll certainly post successes or morbid failures if I am to find them!
     
  5. JerSim94

    JerSim94 Thallmeister General

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    The issue this amp has is that they don't really solder anything. They clip it together. From what I've gathered after hours of research, I may have to go into the board and solder everything, and then fix the transformer connector as well (yippie Bugera!). Thank you for the info though, glad to know it's not just Bugera.
     
  6. CTID

    CTID SS.org Regular

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    I'm not proficient with electronics at all, but that's strange of them to do (not doubting you, just rolling my eyes at Bugera). It seems that that a lot of Made in China amps have issues like this.
     
  7. JerSim94

    JerSim94 Thallmeister General

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    unfortunately, the low-price amps (even if they sound awesome like the 333) can be held together by rubber bands and magic for all we know until we open it up. I just don't know why they chose to save money clipping it and then let fail, thus making the customer come back and get it done the right way in the first place....
     
  8. WarMachine

    WarMachine SS.org Regular

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    No problem man, like i said, check the clip first before you think about soldering. Its easy enough that my 5 year old could do it lol. I hope that's all that happened with yours as well. And btw, the amp the dude was repairing was a 333XL, i think they use all the same components internally so it should be and easy swap.
     
  9. JerSim94

    JerSim94 Thallmeister General

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    thanks man. I saw the one you're referring to, I believe. I'm bringing it in for an evaluation by an instruments-extraordinaire friend of mine free of charge, so I'm probably gonna be playing soon haha.
     
  10. vick1000

    vick1000 SS.org Regular

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    The problem is not the use of a "clip", or plastic connector, it's the less than robust nature of the ones the use. They use what amounts to molex type connectors, which cause enough resistance to produce too much heat at the power levels, for which they were never deigned.

    Amps built all over the world use platic connectors, it's the quality and size of the metal parts inside them that matters most.
     
  11. kylendm

    kylendm Electrical Mercenary

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    This happened to my 333xl. That transformer clip was at fault first. After I fixed it the power section of the amp took a crap. It was only a few dollars to replace a few varistors that had burnt up.
     
  12. kylendm

    kylendm Electrical Mercenary

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  13. viesczy

    viesczy SS.org Regular

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    On the fretboard!
    There's a cable that comes undone on XXX/JSX and the Bugera clones as well.

    My XXX loosened up and had to be re-seated.

    She went from LOUD to crackly to nothing and all I had to do was re-seat the cable... after I replaced all the tubes and fuses!

    Derek
     
  14. JerSim94

    JerSim94 Thallmeister General

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  15. Albionic

    Albionic First of the magi

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    Got it going again?
     

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