fwiw, I had the 85/15 S pickups in my PRS baritone and I hated them. tried a few sets, but found a set of Impulses and oh my Lord those are great baritone pickups.
Grabbing a new USB cable to see if that makes a difference, but also realized I could use SPDIF and that's fine. Also means I don't need to leave the Axe FX on--I'm surprised there's no option to turn off the screen given how bright it is.
Random disconnects (or at least unresponsive), no idea why. Never had an issue with another USB device. Need to try a different cable, but I'm using a normal USB2 cable.
Well, got a AFX 3 Turbo. Initial thoughts: it rules, I have very little idea what I'm doing, but it sounds great.
USB is a bit of a mess, and I think it's probably better to route other things through it. The annoying part is I don't have enough XLR cables right now to get both a DI and...
Thinking it's time to finally jump on the Fractal bandwagon and get an FX3, but I'm trying to figure out if I've got the right IO for this to work with my existing setup.
Today, I go Little Labs Redeye DI/reamp box -> amp -> loadbox -> UAD Apollo Twin -> DAW. The Apollo has two inputs and two...
You need to try more IRs. Get the OH Heavy Hitters, York Audio Mesa 2x12 or 4x12 or DV77, something like that. Try a bunch (a BUNCH) of different mics. The IR is your problem, not the preamps.
doesn't actually matter much from a sound perspective but F spaced matches the spacing and looks better.
you might consider new single coil sized pickups that work better with a 500k pot and swap them all at the same time, especially if you're having a tech do it. the bridge might feel too dark...
there are single coil sized Blackouts so you could do an HSS Blackout setup, but between switching all the pots and making everything balance, you're probably better off with a passive.
(of course, passive HSS setups have the "250k for the single coils or 500k for the bridge" conundrum unless...
don't you need different pots for active vs passive? I don't think it's straightforward to mix and match if you want a passive neck/middle and an active bridge. probably better off getting all actives or all passives
I don't get what's happening with Fluence. There's a PCB and then wire printed on top of the PCB, but somehow they're not using the same PCB for every humbucker. Logistically, this strikes me as a little crazy. It seems like they are entirely focused on sig sets vs letting people mix and match...
curious what the results are. I think the Mushok uses the same bridge as the SE 277, and the bridge is the one thing I don't like about my 277 right now (just feels flimsy). thought about one of the MannMade replacements for a while, but spending $150 on a bridge seems like a lot.