# Deegatron build #6



## Deegatron (Jan 23, 2016)

I figured it was about time I posted this.
been working for quite a while now just thicknessing stock, jointing the body etc.

This one is a re-build of sorts.
This is my donor. was built as a prototype as my first multiscale. has some issues. doesn't feel right... neck is too narrow at the heel.... finish is rather poor in all area's.. just all around doesn't do it for me. I may come back to her some day... but unlikely... 





Game plan is to salvage the hardware and build something I'm proud of.
I'm to understand that this is an eventual inevitability of building guitars... that sooner or later... you go back to older builds and scrap them for the expensive parts. makes sense. times are tight right now so I cant afford to build as much as I would like... a re-build seems like a valid solution.

Specs are as follows
2 pc alder body.
roasted maple / Wenge neck
Wenge fretboard
25.5" scale length
3+3 headstock
Chrome hardware
Custom bridge with string saver saddles (new baseplate for the straight scale)
Volume + 3 way toggle. tone knobs are for hosers...

Current progress looks like this...









So far so good. Im somewhat playing this one by ear for specs and I've run into a few items that I cant seem to make my mind up on so I'd like some input from anyone willing to give some.

Inlays - the wife bought me a whole crapton of tools for the b-day this year for doing inlay. I'm not a fan of big flashy inlays... like a dragon or some ....... but I've been having a hell of a time deciding on something simple and classy. below is my best idea so far....





I guess the question is - No inlay / white MOP inlay or Black MOP inlay 
going into a fairly dark Wenge fretboard.

headstock - I like the look of the roasted maple... but I've got enough Wenge to do a headplate on the headstock
Plain maple or wenge headplate?

pickups.
I've already got an X2N for the bridge... what would go well with that in the neck??

Thanks for looking guys.


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## J_Mac (Jan 26, 2016)

I love wenge  fretboard best left plain IMHO \m/

What style of music will you be playing?


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## Hywel (Jan 26, 2016)

D-activator neck is the highest output neck DiMarzio do so could be a good match just in terms of output.

Headstock is a tough choice. I'd be tempted to leave the headplate off and try the maple.

Normally I'd say plain fretboard but I do like that inlay. I'd say white MOP for the contrast but either would probably look good. I want to see inlay progress shots though so that's kinda swayed my view a bit


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## pettymusic (Jan 26, 2016)

I love the look of a nice fretboard without inlays. I never understood why we have those inlays. I mean the audience doesn't care about fret markers, right? I know it's a decorative thing too and I can appreciate that. I just prefer a plain ole' fretboard.

I would go with the maple plate on the headstock but, it would look great either way you go. 

I also, find myself eyeballing my first build. Hmmmm, that schaller hannes bridge should would look nice in a better built guitar, hehehe!


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## Deegatron (Jan 26, 2016)

J_Mac said:


> I love wenge  fretboard best left plain IMHO \m/
> 
> What style of music will you be playing?


 
Metal, forged in metal then dipped in metal, coated in metal, engraved with metal, and finally tempered with metal.

Question: what kind of metal.. ie: speed metal? thrash metal?
Answer: Im not really a good enough player for that to be relevant. he he... just metal...



Hywel said:


> D-activator neck is the highest output neck DiMarzio do so could be a good match just in terms of output.
> 
> Headstock is a tough choice. I'd be tempted to leave the headplate off and try the maple.
> 
> Normally I'd say plain fretboard but I do like that inlay. I'd say white MOP for the contrast but either would probably look good. I want to see inlay progress shots though so that's kinda swayed my view a bit


 
I've got a d-activator neck in my last build and found it a smidgen bright (in a black limba body) so I cant imagine it'll be much darker in Alder.... i'll spend some time with it and see how I feel.... im not overly concerned with matching the output as you can always raise the neck pickup a smidgen to compensate... 



pettymusic said:


> I love the look of a nice fretboard without inlays. I never understood why we have those inlays. I mean the audience doesn't care about fret markers, right? I know it's a decorative thing too and I can appreciate that. I just prefer a plain ole' fretboard.
> 
> I would go with the maple plate on the headstock but, it would look great either way you go.
> 
> I also, find myself eyeballing my first build. Hmmmm, that schaller hannes bridge should would look nice in a better built guitar, hehehe!



I love me a Schaller Hannes bridge. have one in my #2 guitar... it's by far the nicest / most comfortable bridge I've ever used.

looks like the votes are for maple headstock and no inlays... 
perhaps I'll mess with the inlays a little bit and trim them down to 12th and 24th fret only... and offset them a little... then I get the best of both worlds.... hmmmm yes.... perhaps....


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## Deegatron (Feb 5, 2016)

Sorry for the lack of build updates.
Build is 100% stalled.
I've recently discovered that my radius block is warped a solid 1/8" to 1/4" corner to corner. when plated on a flat surface it's instantly obvious how badly it rocks. that would explain why I've been having such a horrible time getting a consistent radius. 

ALWAYS CHECK YOUR TOOLS BEFORE USE!!!!

This time around I spent ALOT of time ensuring my neck blank was flat 1000% and luckily discovered the radius block issue before starting anything serious.

That being said, I cant afford the stew mac aluminum beam... 

I've decided to build a jig to make my own radius blocks.. so far I've had 1 failed attempt (jig worked... but not particularly well...)

While testing the jig.... my danm router .... the bed... to be more precise... the 80 year old router that I borrowed from my father .... the bed.... 
no problem just bearings... until you try to take it apart and realize some ass clown has already replaced the bottom bearing and glued it into the plastic housing....

little bit of heat and some pressure and I got the housing separated without damage.... just need to order new bearings and buy a puller...

more updates to come... eventually....


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## J_Mac (Feb 5, 2016)

That's a shame dude, looking forward to this \m/

I have a D-Activator 7 in my RG1527, it' very good. I also have a Seymour SH5 custom (used to be in my Horizon) and it's my favourite metal bridge pickup ever. Fat, accurate, controlled, utterly amazing. Really very heavy indeed, without stupid EQ curves or silly gain. It'll do anything from clean to super saturated.


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## Deegatron (Feb 6, 2016)

Well,
Despite my poopie router... I managed some progress today.
Just waiting on parts to get the router fixed.

I do have another router that typically lives in my router table only... so had to pull her out to get some work done.

Started with the "drill a million holes technique. 





followed by routing with a 1/2" template bit.





this leaves little areas in the corners that don't get touched.
those are touched up with a 1/4" shorty bit where the shaft rides on the template. easy peasy.

Next order of business was the top carve





used a spoke shave to rough it in, followed by a rough rasp and a small block with rough sandpaper. it's not 100% yet... but i'll take care of that last 2% during final sanding on the whole body.









The choice to carve the top but not the bottom was a very deliberate one.
It allows me to have a "carve top" while still being able to push the limits as far as body thickness is concerned without worrying about having the cavity to shallow for a push/pull pot.
body is 1-5/8" thick. I use a 1/4" wood back plate and a recess the knobs slightly.... so it gets a little tight as is... with a full carve I would need to add at least 1/4" so I didn't run out of room.

Last order of business today was to carve the heel and drill the neck ferrule holes. I don't have a fancy guided bit to do the ferrules so I have to drill them first to a rough depth... then carve and deepen as needed... it's kinda a bitch... but im tight on funds for tools right now (as I need some other tools more desperately.) so it works for now...





That's all for today...


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## Deegatron (Feb 13, 2016)

Her mah gerd... it's been an absolute gong show trying to get a little bit of time in the garage this last week.
either way... got some time... did some ........

This my friends... is what happens when your a freaking dumbass....



Yes, those are plugs.
I use a 3/4" forstner to countersink the controls... and the OD on the volume knob im using is JUST about 3/4"... so the shaft has to be about 100% centered or .... starts rubbing... real fast....
so... I had to plug and re-drill...
much better the 2nd time around... 

This is the secret to getting everything totally centered... 



it's meant for drilling sheet metal... but it does a stellar job of stepping up the bit size one by one while maintaining on center.... if I had used this thing the first time... we wouldn't be having this conversation... god danmit im a dumbass some days.....
Ah well... all's well that ends well...

Next move is the cavity cover and recess...







Whamo... nice and tight...
templates could use a smidgen of work in the bottom left corner... but im very happy for the time being...

At this point in time... the body is very nearly done... 
to do list
roundover
drill wiring holes
open up the neck bolt holes to the proper diameter....
drill for output jack
Build the bridge and drill the string through holes and string ferrules...
final sanding
paint

Now that I list it out... it seems like a lot more work... crap.... spose i'll keep plugging away.....

That's all for now... peace out.


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## Deegatron (Feb 22, 2016)

Today marks the first day of my 2 week staycation... wife's at work... gremlin's at daycare... I've got the house to myself to goof off, do some "honey do's", work on guitars and start finishing the basement....

progress for the morning was pretty simple... 
Test inlay a piece and see how the black MOP looks...





So far so good... 
Goofed up a little while trying to shut off the dremel... bumped top of the cavity a little further than the line... lesson learned....

Drove 40 minutes each way to the nearest Lee Valley.... bought a foot switch for the dremel so I can turn it on/off with both hands on the tool.

*Insert lee valley rant here*

They had 1 of the 3 tools I needed... luckily the footswitch was the one they had and the other 2 were not must have items... kinda pissed me off tho... blarg...

either way, Im now setup for hands free dremel and router operation... which is cool....

Next step was to print out my template and slot the fretboard.
This is my badass homebrew slotting setup... kinda lame... but it actually works great...





all done...





Next I started cutting out the inlay....
Maybe im just REALLY REALLY bad at it.... but I don't see anyone else complain about how many freaking blades they break... this is my pile after 5 of 12 pieces.









They look white but that's the template glued to the top... they're actually black MOP.

that's where I called her a day... will finish cutting the rest tomorrow or Wednesday... If I can... I finished 5 pices on 1 old blade + 2 new ones. I have one blade in the saw now and 2 new blades left... I think it's time for a stew mac order...


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## KR250 (Feb 22, 2016)

Build is looking great, stay-cation FTW! Good tip on the step-up bit as well. I've had trouble with really small drill bits bending when doing pilot holes and making everything off center.


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## jwade (Feb 22, 2016)

Digging the homemade fretting jig.


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## Deegatron (Feb 23, 2016)

Another home made jig for your viewing pleasure.

This is my pear cutting jig.
pretty simple... a piece of MDF with a hole drilled in it and a slot cut...
the tubing is connected to a needle valve and on off switch and strait from the compressor... the needle valve controls how strong the air blows... I also use this same tube into the stew mac dremel base with great success..



 

And... on to the progress....
IF you've been following my previous post... I was in serious danger of breaking all of my blades before completing the inlay cutting....
by the skin on my balls... I made it....
I decided to try "pro cut" that I bought from stew mac a few ages ago on the saw blades... 
Either I my pear cutting skillz tripled in the last 24 hours or the pro cut actually worked and did a fantastic job of extending the life of the blades... probably my minimizing binding... so there ya go... Deegatron tip of the week... 
made it through the rest of the fretboard inlays and still had enough blades left to do an inlay for the headstock or cavity cover or something....





would have gotten more done but the brothers wife's car .... the bed and I had to go change a battery... 

inlay's still need cleanup with some sandpaper... but otherwise they're ready to go...

finished on my last blade... yikes... cutting it a bit close.... ahhhh, that was an unintentional inlay cutting pun.... sweet....


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## Deegatron (Mar 4, 2016)

Just put in my order at stew mac for the last items I need to complete the build. 
should be here in 2-4 weeks... stupid Canada...
either way I've made some progress on the inlay.
Im rather happy with the results.





some are pretty danm tight...





some will need some filler...




I really like the Black MOP... it's pearl... but it's not your typical flashy white MOP... hopefully I don't sand thru anywhere while radiusing... knock on wood...

Couple little things to clean up before my stew mac order arrives... but otherwise wont be much activity here for a bit.


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## Killemall1983 (Mar 4, 2016)

A little trick to inlaying, is if you trace the piece of pearl with a razor on the fretboard, it will give you a cleaner line and fit.


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 5, 2016)

use your digital caliper to scribe the upper and lower constraints of the block! Perfectly parallel each time.


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## Deegatron (Mar 27, 2016)

Aiet broheim....
IM BACK IN THE GAME!!!!
My stewmac order came in record time. 

Managed some time in the garage this weekend.
Started by installing magnets in the cavity cover and body.





Moved on to thicknessing the neck blank, thicknessing the headstock, drilling, tapping and installing the 6mm inserts.












Above is my 2 step tapping process. the first is a bottoming tap of a very similar thread, followed by a home made tap (made from one of the inserts). this guarantee's no cracking or getting the insert stuck while installing. seems ridiculous but it's what I go through to get er done.

all done.




I also drilled for the straplocks and marked out the hole for the recessed jack to be drilled at a later date. (I want to finish the other holes before I setup my drill press for the jack... its a pain in the ass)

the good news is I didn't drill through into the trussrod cavity. one of the inserts is REALLY close and im always deathly afraid I will... I think i'll move it on the next build... it's just too close...


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## J_Mac (Mar 31, 2016)

That insert work looks super precise dude. What are the benefits of using bolts and inserts rather than screws?


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 31, 2016)

Really cool process for the threaded inserts. I have been using SS tee nuts installed under the fretboard for a few bolt on necks lately. They work great and have a very solid hold, but I could see a huge advantage of being able to remove the threaded piece fairly easily if anything should ever go wrong by using the brass inserts. I need to try this method some time. Anyway... really clean work, get-r-done!!!




J_Mac said:


> That insert work looks super precise dude. What are the benefits of using bolts and inserts rather than screws?



They have a very strong hold, they can apply far more down pressure than a wood screw. You can almost always grab a guitar off the shelf at any music store that has a traditional "bolt on" neck and apply a little bit of pressure to the neck and shift it side to side. Even some of the higher end models do this. With a properly done set of inserts, you probably won't get that, it'll feel as solid as a set neck joint. Inserts also give the advantage of allowing the ability to remove the neck many times without fear of stripping the wood. Wood screws are at their strongest the first time you put them in, but each time after that runs the risk of compressing and wearing out the wood fibers that make up the threads for the screws. There is no wood-to-metal threading happening with inserts while removing the neck, only metal to metal. The two ways I've seen this done are the method shown above (threaded inserts) or permanently embedding tee nuts in the neck under the fretboard. 

like this




I've done ^ that 3 times now. It makes for SUCH a strong bolt on joint. Just have to be careful to trim the bolts to the right length or risk cracking the fretboard from beneath.

One good advantage of the threaded inserts is they take up less real estate in the heel, so you don't have to get too tight with the truss rod and such.


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## BlackMastodon (Apr 1, 2016)

Do you guys use any ferrules or washers with the machine screws? I'm doing this on my build and I got some washers just in case but I'm curious what other people who have already done it use.


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## Deegatron (Apr 1, 2016)

Im not sure I really buy into the "more pressure" from bolts train of thought. at some point in time the joint stops getting tighter and you start crushing the wood under the ferrule....
You can get neck screws plenty tight... 
but your always worried about stripping the wood and the Philips head....

with bolts it's nearly impossible to strip the allan head or the wood... 
it's also a joy to install / remove the neck... the bolts are much easier, smoother, happier to remove / install. makes for happy / easy fretwork.

the bolt on guitars at the music store where the neck will shift are more the result of slopy neck pockets due to the tolerances the builders must work with due to wood shrinkage/swelling from moisture. The CNC machines they use are SUPER accurate and even more repeatable... but guitar X could be shipped to Louisiana's barrage of humidity or Canada's ULTRA dry winters... so they have to make things pretty slopy on purpose to allow for that.... some of the guitars will be tighter than others however... so if you can try out 10 of the same guitar... you can likely find one with a nice tight neck joint and the screws can be tightened.

A custom build however.. you can get just about perfect if you do your due diligence... couple that with the strong neck bolts and you should be able to get a SOLID neck joint every time... till you try to ship it somewhere with a different climate....


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## Deegatron (Apr 1, 2016)

BlackMastodon said:


> Do you guys use any ferrules or washers with the machine screws? I'm doing this on my build and I got some washers just in case but I'm curious what other people who have already done it use.



I use the Stew Mac ferrules.
The 6mm bolts sit just a hair proud of the ferrule but I prefer that to the teenie weenie itty bitty look of a 10-32 screw in the same ferrule.

Some guy's use the furniture bolts with large heads... these would be used without a ferrule I believe....


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 1, 2016)

Depends on the head size Mastodon, mine are a 3/8 head on a 1/4 shaft so plenty of room to spread the pressure. I just countersink them and that's it. If you're crushing wood in that direction, you've got a lot of other issues on your plate then just some compressed wood.


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## BlackMastodon (Apr 1, 2016)

Sorry to hijack your thread Deegatron, but these are the bolts I will use:







So they won't fit with the normal Stew Mac ferrules. But they are large and flat enough where they should stop at the wood on their own like Julius said.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 1, 2016)

BlackMastodon said:


> Sorry to hijack your thread Deegatron, but these are the bolts I will use:
> 
> So they won't fit with the normal Stew Mac ferrules. But they are large and flat enough where they should stop at the wood on their own like Julius said.






love those, I use them with washers. Just wish I could find them in stainless steel.


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## Deegatron (Apr 20, 2016)

Alrighty,
I'd like to start today's update with a segment I like to call
"don't be a retard like Deegatron...."

Lesson 1
If your going to spend 10,000 man hours getting your neck blank flatter than your wife's forehead... 
Then do yourself a favor... and spend the same amount of time ensuring your fretboard is of even thickness across it's length....
#facepalm# 

Lesson #2
ORDER OF OPPERATIONS IS KING... DONT .... WITH THE KING OR HE'S GOING TO MESS YOUR .... UP....
radius'd my fret board and then realized I hadn't tapered my neck blank on the router sled like I normally do... took me 2 days to complete a 10 minute job because I messed with the order of operations...

Took me forever to get my fretboard radius'd too as it was a fair bit uneven... was worried I would sand through the inlays... but seem to have gotten away with it... booya....
here come the progress pics....










Body is also complete and waiting for final sanding / finishing... I'm really flip flopping on the finish for the body... I'm tempted to spray bomb white with a flat clear finish. or just a flat clear finish... I dunno... gonna have to ponder that for a bit...


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## J_Mac (Apr 21, 2016)

Deegatron said:


> Alrighty,
> I'd like to start today's update with a segment I like to call
> "don't be a retard like Deegatron...."



Lmao!


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## All_¥our_Bass (Apr 22, 2016)

Coming along pretty good.

Those wire/blade things are indeed infuriating.


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## Deegatron (May 9, 2016)

Too long since my last update. 
My Gremlin had a b-day so I've spent the last 2 weeks prepping for that.

did manage to get some work done tho.

cut the "facets" on the neck blank.




and smoothed everything over




Still lots of work to be done on the volute and heel... i'll get photo's of that shortly...

Built myself a fancy fret press utensil....



this is deegatron's fret press MK-II.... MK-I was made from MDF and suffered a severe dent when one of the frets needed some extra jam to go down... this one is maple and held up nicely for the rest of the frets...

I do see why a lot of guy's use the fret press with the arbor presses and not with their drill press... my drill press table simply isn't desgined to take that kind of load and was bending slightly on some of the frets... but it worked... and it worked well.. so no complaints....

then filled the gaps with sawdust and CA glue... which sorta works on wenge and sorta doesn't work on wenge....



meh, still looks nicer than untrimmed fret tangs I think....

Neck profile still needs some work but i'll prolly get her strung up before I finish that as it's nice to feel how she plays first... 
Gave myself a nasty Wenge splinter while doing the neck... eventually managed to dig it all out... but the key word here is dig... and it hurt like a bastard....

Had some repairs for a buddy to do for the last couple days.. will be done that shortly... which means i'll actually have $$$ for finishing supplies... ha ha... 

more to come soon...


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## Deegatron (May 11, 2016)

Went nuts over the last 2 days... Just jumped in head first... been waffling on the headstock inlay for a long time... and just said F it... 
worked out pretty danm well I'd say. much tighter than my previous attempts on this piece... (did a lot of practice pieces when I got my inlay tools).

Yeah yeah.... pictures or it didn't happen.








also got some photo's of the completed transitions...







That's all for now...


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## fenji (May 11, 2016)

nice work on that inlay! looks super clean. with those fret tangs, i think i'm going to follow your lead, definitely looks better than untrimmed.


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## Deegatron (May 12, 2016)

Thanks Fenji,
It's a lot more work to do the "hidden tang, crouching fret file" approach... but well worth it in my opinion....

As much as I love Wenge.... I'll probably go back to using ebony for fretboards... both inlay and the fret tangs would be hidden/filled much cleaner this way...


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## Deegatron (May 16, 2016)

Well, I pulled the trigger.

She's white. had to re-drill the neck ferrules as I typically drill them right to size without any room for paint.... (I usually do oil finishes)

Couple coats of primer followed by 3 color coats.
Used Automotive acrylic Enamel.
it was the only stuff I could find that I could get the primer / color / top coat I wanted all from the same brand that wasn't the indoor only Krylon stuff. 





It needs to dry for a week. then I'll sand out a couple little spits here and there. nothing major....
then a couple coats of flat clear.....
I'm getting pretty pumped as it turned out much better than I had hoped for....

Now I'm just working on getting the neck ready for clear coat... booya... soon... yes... soon....


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (May 17, 2016)

White is gonna be such a classy look with that multi lam neck. I always liked the idea of a beautiful wood neck on a painted body.


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## Deegatron (May 18, 2016)

DP, I hope your right. I very much lack the "vision" that some guy's have to see what a guitar will look like before it's actually completed... I mock stuff up, layout timber together, etc. none of that really helps... it just doesn't "click" for me until the guitar is actually put together.... so far it's come together nicely... im not sure if that's just blind luck or what....


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## J_Mac (Jun 14, 2016)

Can anyone help me with buying bolts and inserts in the uk? I've searched for a while amd can't seem to find anything suitable. And I'm not entirely sure on sizes. 

Btw - any updates on the build?


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## Hywel (Jun 14, 2016)

eBay is good for a lot of screws and fixings in the UK.

M5 x 10mm Unheaded Slotted Brass Screw-In Inserts For Wood: [10 pcs] # 100140 | eBay or M5 x 12mm Unheaded Hex Drive BRASS Screw-In Insert For Wood (10 Pcs) #100455 | eBay and M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 A2 STAINLESS STEEL COUNTERSUNK BOLT CSK ALLEN SOCKET SCREW | eBay in M5 should do you nicely. 4-6mm diameters work well and the screw length is dependant on you insert length and heel thickness. If you use T Nuts instead then ~40mm seems to work well. Make sure you use brass or stainless. Some cheaper steel/zinc inserts can get chewed up and then they're a pain to remove.


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## Deegatron (Jun 15, 2016)

Sadly no significant updates. I'm using Enamel paint (last time I make that mistake) and it requires that I lay down 3 coats and then let it cure for a week before more paint can be applied.
primer went on fine. layer 1-3 went on fine but a little thin... wet sanded some of the lumps and bumps out... broke through to primer in a few places (was expecting this). layer 4 and 5 went on nicely... waiting for that to cure before a quick wet sand and a couple more layers of white in 1 spot that's a little thin... after that it will be a week to cure followed by 3 layers or so of matt clear coat... I'm still a solid 2-3 weeks away.

It's also been rainy as hell here lately so I've had delays due to weather... but sooner or later she will be finished... ohhhh yes... she will be finished... I really should finish the fretwork and level the neck etc....


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## J_Mac (Jun 16, 2016)

Thanks for those pointers Hywel! \m/ I was really struggling with this one


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## Deegatron (Jun 24, 2016)

Alrighty, an actual update!!! woo!!!!
Paint is finally done curing...
so I put her together for a look see....
all I can say is $%#@% yeah!!!!





























That is all...
I will have a couple hours to work on her today... should get some strings on her... 
couple small things to finish, like the bridge plate....
Also, I still haven't applied finish to the neck... I want to get her strung up so I can play her for a bit to see if anywhere on the neck "needs some work" before I apply finish...

otherwise she's basically done....

The Matt white really doesn't photograph well... it looks fantastic in person but I cant get a good photo of it at all... meh....


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## BlackMastodon (Jun 24, 2016)

Looks great! Any reason why you put the tuners in "backwards"? Is it to have a shorter headstock/slightly smaller foot print?


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## Deegatron (Jun 24, 2016)

BAHAHAHAHAHA HER MAH GERD I BUILD GUITARS AIET??!?!..... BLACK MASTADON YOU NOTICED MY SECRET WEAPON!!!! 

actually I just .... the bed... I've been staring at the pictures for hours trying to figure out what was "off" about the headstock and couldn't figure it out... I put the god danm tuners in backwards that's what!!!! LOL... it's a good thing I haven't drilled the holes for the little set screws or I'd really be feeling like an idiot....


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## J_Mac (Jun 24, 2016)

Dunno man, quite like them reversed tunas!

This is a superb looking gtr \m/

Reminds me of the white PRS Mike was using when I saw Opeth on their last tour:


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Jun 25, 2016)

Some super nice stuff going on here... Told you that white paint/multi lam natural wood combo would look good!!! I'm really digging this! The thing that really freaks my face out though is that the wenge stripes on the back of the neck are done in just the right proportions, and the wenge electronics cover set into the painted body. I think I'm gonna do the EC cover on my current build in wenge now, I was just gonna use plastic.

Also the shape of the heel - bodacious.


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## Deegatron (Jun 27, 2016)

Thanks for the kind words guy's.

Not gonna lie, I was super leery about this... but DP you were 100% right... she;s turning out to be a looker and a half...

I've spent the last 3 days polishing frets... not because it takes me that long to polish frets... but because I hate polishing frets... so I do exactly 2 frets and then say $#@ this [email protected]#$#@.... I'm gonna go do something that doesn't make me want to punch a baby....
so yeah.... I'm like 6 frets in.... and I have to redo like 3 frets cuz I didn't polish them enough.... LOL....
#first world luthier problems?#


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## JuliusJahn (Jun 27, 2016)

put a netflix show on, and just polish while you watch. Put a groove in an eraser or buy the stewmac ones to hold the paper so your hand doesnt cramp. I did SEVEN fretjobs in ONE day last month, so im sure you can do one


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## feraledge (Jun 27, 2016)

Deegatron said:


> Thanks for the kind words guy's.
> 
> Not gonna lie, I was super leery about this... but DP you were 100% right... she;s turning out to be a looker and a half...
> 
> ...



I will do all of your fret polishing for a year for a free guitar.


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## Deegatron (Jun 27, 2016)

feraledge said:


> I will do all of your fret polishing for a year for a free guitar.



considering I build about 1 guitar a year... that would be a hell of a deal for you... LOL....


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## feraledge (Jun 27, 2016)

Deegatron said:


> considering I build about 1 guitar a year... that would be a hell of a deal for you... LOL....



It's cause it takes you a month to polish frets. See, I'm just here to help.


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## Deegatron (Jun 28, 2016)

Thank you Mr. Jahn for the much needed kick in the $#@





don't have Netflix in my garage... but put some tunes on and got at er... surprisingly wasn't that half bad once I was actually going at it and committed to finishing....

couple small steps left and I can string her up and find out how good / bad my fretwork really is...


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## Deegatron (Jun 29, 2016)

Ladies and gentlemen... I feel like I'm finally hitting the home stretch....
Got the nut roughed out last night and the tuners + bridge installed...
next step is to string her up and ensure I'm happy with the neck carve...
I'm sure there will be some "fiddling" with the carve... 
followed by tear it down and applying finish to the neck... followed by a couple paint touchups on the body... 
then it's reassembly and we're done...
im not far off... not far off indeed..... getting really stoked....


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## Deegatron (Oct 3, 2016)

4 months later....
I've been trying to fix up the couple of small area's on this guitar for 4 months. it's rained here in Edmonton almost every single day this summer. it's been insanity... finally gave up and just got er done. slapped a couple coats of tung oil on the neck and started assembly.

















Really happy with the way everything worked out.
just waiting for pickups to come in and she'll be done...


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## J_Mac (Oct 3, 2016)

Unbelievable \m/

I love that contrast between wooden neck and white body. Utterly superb design and craftsmanship dude.


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## Deegatron (Oct 3, 2016)

J_Mac said:


> Unbelievable \m/
> 
> I love that contrast between wooden neck and white body. Utterly superb design and craftsmanship dude.



Thank you!
I appreciate the kind words. I'm rather stoked to see how she sounds...


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## Deegatron (Nov 14, 2016)

And.... she's finally 100% done.
Pickups came in a few days ago and I've been playing her not stop ever since....

Here are the final glory pictures.

































Next up. finish my build for my niece and start a spider man build for my little guy....


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## KR250 (Nov 16, 2016)

Very clean, well done.


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## Deegatron (Nov 16, 2016)

KR250 said:


> Very clean, well done.



Thank you,
I appreciate the kind words!


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## KnightBrolaire (Nov 16, 2016)

hnnnngg that neck is awesome


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## BlackMastodon (Nov 21, 2016)

Came out great, man!


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