# BKP aftermath problem. Can't keep up with EMG?!



## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

Hi, at the moment me and my band are recording our promo album and today we were going to start with my guitar. 
But we couldn't find a good sound that would blend smooth together with the other guitar.

My guitar is an LTD H-1001 with BKP Aftermath as bridge, and BKP Cold Sweat in the neck. But today I only played on my aftermath.
The second guitar is a Schecter blacjack with EMG 81/89 (the same emg's that I switched for the BKP's).

The EMG's is always "higher" in the mix, and you can barely separate my LTD with Bare knuckle pickups from the Schecter with EMG.
It sounds like the EMG got more clarity and mid, wich I find even stranger becuase BKP is known for those things (clarity and mid). 

So now I want to know if there could be something wrong with my pickups, or that the guy who installed them installed them wrong?

Here are the 2 samples from today:

Aftermath test by Oliviergus on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free
EMG 81 test by Oliviergus on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free


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## MaxOfMetal (Jul 4, 2011)

You mean the magical BKPs might not sound as good as the tried and true (like it or not fellas) EMGs? Blasphemy!!!



Really though, it might just be that those particular pickups just don't gel with your rig the way you want it.


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## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

Bah! But still, its the same amp and settings. And still the EMG sounds clearer, that is blasphemy.

And if the EMG should be clearer.. I still think that the BKP should at least be able to cut through the mix?


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## MaxOfMetal (Jul 4, 2011)

Why are you using the same settings after a pickup swap? Mess around with the EQ and gain. You always have to dial in new gear just right. 

That being said, once again, the Aftermath might not be the right pickup for your current rig.


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## JamesM (Jul 4, 2011)

You have to change the setting, dude!


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## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

Baah, don't misunderstand me. We did change the settings, and its not my rig. 
We did max the mids/highs on the amp, but still it didn't cut trough. 
The recordings is just to show the difference of the pickups.


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## Emperoff (Jul 4, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> Baah, don't misunderstand me. We did change the settings, and its not my rig.
> We did max the mids/highs on the amp, but still it didn't cut trough.
> The recordings is just to show the difference of the pickups.



People can say what they want about the EMG 81s, but its strongest points are their supreme clarity and tightness, with a huge high-mid spike that cuts through the mix like a chainsaw. BKPs may be great, but may not be what you want/need. EMGs are widely renowned for being great for recording.

Different guitars and pickups have different sounds and applications, having a guitar equipped with BKPs doesn't mean you have to set the rest of your guitars on fire. If you love the sound of your guitar, but love the recorded sound of the EMGs more, use the EMG equipped guitar for tracking. Simple as that.


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## TRENCHLORD (Jul 4, 2011)

NOT the same as BKPs, but 81 blew away the SH13(dimebucker) I had originally dropped in my Ibanez RGT. I'm never going back to passives again.


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## JMP2203 (Jul 4, 2011)

you wanted a painkiller then, they cut better since have more hi mids


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## JamesM (Jul 4, 2011)

^^The Dimebucker is one of the worst pickups ever put on the mainstream market...


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## anne (Jul 4, 2011)

The EMGs definitely sound better, yeah, but I wouldn't have used Aftermaths for that kind of tone in the first place. That really sounds like bass maxed and everything else at 0, rather than mids/highs maxed.


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## NovaReaper (Jul 4, 2011)

What amp are you running through? Like others have said, the aftermath is probably just not the right pickup for that kind of tone.


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## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

NovaReaper said:


> What amp are you running through? Like others have said, the aftermath is probably just not the right pickup for that kind of tone.



We're running through an Peavey valveking head, with a peavey cabinet. But I don't know what speaker.


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## SirMyghin (Jul 4, 2011)

The issue could easily be BKPs are middy and clear, in the world of passives. Aren't those the 2 things that actives completely crush at doing? Your tone has virtually nothing to it except lows/low mids either way.

If the guitar had EMGs before, did your tech bother to change the pots?


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## NovaReaper (Jul 4, 2011)

You may have wired it incorrectly as well, as it sounds like there is very little output compared to the EMG. My aftermath sounds absolutely nothing like that. You might also want to try a tube screamer in front of the amp.


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## Jogeta (Jul 4, 2011)

did you set your interface up for the BKP before you hit the red button?
specifically the input gain to just below the point where the signal clips?

if you did then i'd simply turn up the channel volume on the BKP stems until they are comparable to EMG ones.


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## Emperoff (Jul 4, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> We're running through an Peavey valveking head, with a peavey cabinet. But I don't know what speaker.


Funny how people spend 300$ on pickups that go into a 400$ amp.


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## mountainjam (Jul 4, 2011)

Both pups sound terrible in your soundclips, the aftermaths being the worst. I own multiple sets of aftermaths, they sound nothing like that. Your settings are way off, they are wired wrong, or they might have the wrong pots. Something is clearly off.


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## Laxdude67 (Jul 4, 2011)

Emperoff said:


> People can say what they want about the EMG 81s, but its strongest points are their supreme clarity and tightness, with a huge high-mid spike that cuts through the mix like a chainsaw. BKPs may be great, but may not be what you want/need. EMGs are widely renowned for being great for recording.
> 
> Different guitars and pickups have different sounds and applications, having a guitar equipped with BKPs doesn't mean you have to set the rest of your guitars on fire. If you love the sound of your guitar, but love the recorded sound of the EMGs more, use the EMG equipped guitar for tracking. Simple as that.



IMO BKPs are overrated. I said it djenters. fawk:

Seriously dude, Emperoff said it right. There's a reason EMGs are so widely used in the recording world, and it seems you're finding what works for your sound. Use your ears, whichever one sounds best after all your tweaking go for the better sound! Good luck man!


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 4, 2011)

I am an avid EMG guy - have been for years now, and I agree with several of the posts made here...

-Did YOU bother to check the wiring and the pots and everything since you got the guitar back? Your tech/luthier might have been out to lunch and left the EMG pots in it which may result in a weak output and tone...

-Along the same lines, have you checked the wiring diagrams listed and posted here to see if they are even wired correctly even if he IS using the right pots??? I know the main, basic diagrams for the BKP's are listed on here, it'd be worth checking out just to see if your tech did by chance wire them ass-backwards...

-Third note, is your tech still using the stereo jack that is used for the EMG system? If so, you might also wanna check the wiring to the jack and make sure those are correct as well...

While I myself am not one to spend more than $225 for a set of pickups, I do know that the aftermath is supposed to be one of the more brootalz pickups out there for a passive... It definitely sounds like something is wrong somewhere...  Good luck in finding it, as it shouldn't be hard to spot...


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## AngstRiddenDreams (Jul 4, 2011)

I hate your tone...jus sayin.


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## Andii (Jul 4, 2011)

The important question is:
Did you or anyone else swap the pots when you changed from passive to active? If not that is the problem. Passives don't work on the pots from the active set.

EDIT:


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## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

Okey, thanks for all the answers. Lets clear some things up.

* I did leave it to my local music shop with the wiring diagrams from BKP.
When I got it back, he said that something were not right with the neck pup. It sounds like shit, trust me. 

* There is 2 250k pots, brand new from Ernie Ball I think.

* I don't think he switched the stereo jack.

* I don't trust my local music shop.

Now, can this help anyone here?


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## BigPhi84 (Jul 4, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> * There is 2 250k pots, brand new from Ernie Ball I think.



Why are you using 250K pots? Shouldn't you use 500k (or 1 Meg) pots for humbuckers?


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## NovaReaper (Jul 4, 2011)

Yep that's a big part of the problem right there, you need 500K pots for passives.


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## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

I did get a advice to get 250k becuase of the brightness it adds?
And if the tech installed 250k for passive humbuckers, shouldn't he have told me if they were going to be correct or something?


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## SirMyghin (Jul 4, 2011)

You have it backwards, lower resistance = less brightness overall. 250k is used in singles as they are very bright.


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## MaxOfMetal (Jul 4, 2011)

There is nothing really wrong with using 250k pots, it's just that 500k are the most common type used in passive humbucker equipped solid bodies.

That being said I'm sure they aren't helping your tone right now.


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## Bigfan (Jul 4, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> Okey, thanks for all the answers. Lets clear some things up.
> 
> * I did leave it to my local music shop with the wiring diagrams from BKP.
> When I got it back, *he said that something were not right with the neck pup*. It sounds like shit, trust me.
> ...



Uh, and you still had to pay for the job?


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## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

Yep, like 70 euros. Including the work, changing of strings, all the materials (knobs, pots).

BUT, he said that I should email BKP to see what possibly could be wrong. And I haven't checked it yet, but i'm going tomorrow. 
Thats why this thread could help me also, and why I created this thread.


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## JamesM (Jul 4, 2011)

Try 500K, or if you feel like splurging, get some 550K pots from BKP.


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## MaxOfMetal (Jul 4, 2011)

Pics of the electronics?


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## -Nolly- (Jul 4, 2011)

The 250k&#937; pots are undoubtedly the issue here. They'll sound something like 500k&#937;s with tone rolled off to 5 or so, no wonder you're having clarity issues.


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## oliviergus (Jul 4, 2011)

-Nolly- said:


> The 250k&#937; pots are undoubtedly the issue here. They'll sound something like 500k&#937;s with tone rolled off to 5 or so, no wonder you're having clarity issues.



If thats the truth (which I gladly believes) i'd be so happy. 
Then I get new pots already tomorrow. Should I try solder it by myself?
What can go wrong if I try by my own?


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## brutalwizard (Jul 4, 2011)

if your confident, and understand the procedure and wiring diagrams, then a simple solder job is pretty painless.


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## SirMyghin (Jul 4, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> If thats the truth (which I gladly believes) i'd be so happy.
> Then I get new pots already tomorrow. Should I try solder it by myself?
> What can go wrong if I try by my own?



Burnt fingers mostly, assuming however you at least know how to solder properly but just incase, here are a few points. 

Tin the leads (heat up the wire and apply solder) before trying to solder a connection, it helps with adhesion some. 

Heat the joint, not the solder with the iron, a small dab of solder on the end of the iron helps heat transfer, but the idea is not to melt solder with the iron. You want to use the iron to heat the part/tab you want to solder enough for the solder to melt when the solder touches the part, not the iron (once again DON'T melt the solder on the iron, except in those few cases when everything is too damned tight anyway, you still need to heat the part well before). The solder will move on its own/flow instead of globbing up when the part is hot enough, once you have seen it, you will understand. 

When soldering grounds to the bottom of pots (ideally you have a copper taped cavity, which you can solder directly to, my preference anyway), make sure if the pots are anchored/bolted you remove the knobs, otherwise you are going to be heating that pot for a long, long time, and if your knobs have plastic inserts... well they ain't good no more  (Did it with solid metal ones once and was cursing a lot about how long it was taking).

A 30W iron should do it.


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 4, 2011)

Okay the biggest issue I saw with the OP's last posts is that he mentioned that "I don't trust my local music shop"...

That is problem #1. Never, EVER bring your guitar to have work done by someone you do not trust. This is what happens as a result of doing so. The job don't get done right, and you get robbed for the shotty work that got done as a result.

Now aside from that, yes, you should have had the 500K pots installed for these, not the 250K's. And yes, the soldering is very easy as long as you follow the diagrams exactly as shown. Also, when your about to do the soldering of the new pots, be sure to check the jack as well. Make sure the ground and signal wires are on the right pins just to be safe. From what you described, it definitely sounds like the pots are the cause of the issue.

Also another quick little tip about soldering: If you can, use solder with flux and soldering flux paste if you can get it. The Flux Paste will be used before you attempt to coat the wires with solder and solder the wires to the tabs and pot casings. The flux paste is the ultimate adhersion promoter, and better ensures your connections to stick.


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## anne (Jul 4, 2011)

As usual, "My BKPs suck!" comes down to bad install. One must be rolling in dough to spend 70 euro on a tech you know sucks... :S


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

I'm feeling stupid as shit. My tone control was at 0 all the time. 
But no seriously, I went to buy 500k pots today, bought them.

When I come home I realize its 500k pots in it already. And i'm thinking WTF is this?!
So i'm at zero again....... Should I check the soldering if its right?


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

I would say try testing the guitar again, this time with the tone at 10 and see what the tone result is... Surely it will be a lot better than what it used to sound like...

As for the wiring issue: For what I can see in the pics you posted, the red wire from the neck pickup - what is it attached to??? Are your switch positions backwards by any chance??? your switch - is it a tele style 3-way or a 5-way??? Guessing that the guitar originally had the EMG's in it, that's a 3-way. From what I can see your neck pickup hot wire isn't even soldered to the switch like it should be which is why your neck pickup don't work... Also from what I can see in your pics is that your bridge hot is soldered to the neck position connection, and the by the looks of it your neck hot lead isn't even connected... your switch should be wired like this:
-Top row of pins are(left to right): 8-7-6-5
-Bottom row of pins are (left to right): 1-2-3-4
-Pins 1, 2, 6 & 5 should have a jumper connecting all 4 together
-Bridge hot goes to pin 4
-Neck hot goes to pin 8
-Output is on pin 5

I would first try connecting the neck pickup hot lead to the switch like it should and see if that works. If by chance your pickups are backwards on the switch, just re-solder the red wires in opposite positions. If you still have trouble after that, I would contact BKP for a specific wiring diagram and letting them know what kind of switch is in it and what the guitar had for pickups. Then, I would either do the soldering yourself if you wanna save your money OR find a luthier you trust and get it done right this time and have him follow the diagram from BKP to make sure it's done right.

Also, do yourself the favor and don't ever go back to that tech that wired this for you, as he robbed you and did a half-ass job.


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

I was sarcastic about the tone knob.

I'm going to solder it by myself, checking out some wiring diagrams atm. 
But this is my first time, and I don't understand a shit. Where are the colors supposed to go?

And why haven't this guy used the white/green wires?


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## Konfyouzd (Jul 5, 2011)

New pups + same settings = 

... and 500k pots ftw...


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## loktide (Jul 5, 2011)

I own both pickups in different guitars, and all i can say is that an EMG81 will simply sound completely different than the Aftermath.

i like both for different things, but using the exact same rig settings with both will most likely not work out for either one. 

perhaps you simply like the tone of active pickups better, which is perfectly understandable. The EMG81 already excels at what it does, which is why it has become one of the music industry standards for recording metal guitars. The aftermath is awesome in it's own right, but won't do the active sound better than an actual active pickup.


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## kmanick (Jul 5, 2011)

your wiring must be off. I had an Aftermath in my BRJ and although it wasn't what I was looking for , it was one of the most "alive" pickups I've ever had in a guitar.
Sounds nothing like the clp you posted.
a 250k pot won't kill a pickup either , tiw will cut off the high end. i have 250 k pots in several of my guitars (all humbuckers). In a really bright guitar they help quite a bit.
if the guitar is not bright to begin with it will mud it up but it won't make the pickup sound "dead" like yours does in the clip.


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## loktide (Jul 5, 2011)

kmanick said:


> your wiring must be off.



that was also my initial thought. why is it that BKPs get wired incorrectly so often and dimarzios or duncan's not? all of them come with a color coding chart/description. RTFM!


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## Konfyouzd (Jul 5, 2011)

I've had my DiMarzios wired incorrectly before. The green and red wires are opposite on DiMarzio and BKP, no? Regardless, they're color coded and you can typically find the charts online telling you which color is which... 

EDIT: No... They're the same.


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

Well could somebody please just help me?

If someone just could tell me:

"Red is going to this place (pic, description or something), then do this, this, and etc etc"

I gotta start recording my guitar tomorrow...


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## loktide (Jul 5, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> Well could somebody please just help me?
> 
> If someone just could tell me:
> 
> ...



from the BKP website:

_What is the Bare Knuckle Four conductor colour code?_

Answer: 
Black =start of screw coil
White = finish of screw coil
Red = start of slug coil
Green = finish of slug coil

*For standard series operation solder the red to the pot tag, the black to ground(usually the back of the pot casing) and solder the green and white together.*


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> I was sarcastic about the tone knob.
> 
> I'm going to solder it by myself, checking out some wiring diagrams atm.
> But this is my first time, and I don't understand a shit. Where are the colors supposed to go?
> ...





oliviergus said:


> Well could somebody please just help me?
> 
> If someone just could tell me:
> 
> ...



The green + white wires are soldered together to make the coils work as a humbucker, so leave those as they are. The black and bare wires get soldered to the back of the volume pot casing, and the red wires are the hot output leads that get soldered to the switch...

Refer to the last post I made from today a few minutes ago at 9:35 AM...


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## SirMyghin (Jul 5, 2011)

Your 3 way switch is wired right fucked, that is for sure. You can do it up like Kamikaze suggests, you my preferences is use the commons as th out, Kami uses the commons as the in and goes out off the jumped tabs. Both work fine, if you don't understand what either of us are saying, looking up how a blade switch works.

You only use the green and white wires if you are having fun with pickup mode voicings. If you want information on that, there is plenty here.
http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/pi...-pickup-wiring-crash-course-technicolour.html


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

I'm taking a step at the time. Did just solder the red cables (hot?) as you said Kamikaze.

But the neck and bridge are wired correctly I think. When I did reverse it it just sounded the same. But when I switched to the "neck" pickup, it was the bridge and vice versa. 

So the next step, what wires should I try to change?


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> I'm taking a step at the time. Did just solder the red cables (hot?) as you said Kamikaze.
> 
> But the neck and bridge are wired correctly I think. When I did reverse it it just sounded the same. But when I switched to the "neck" pickup, it was the bridge and vice versa.
> 
> So the next step, what wires should I try to change?



If you say you switched to the neck and got the bridge, then just swap both red wires. Your neck red wire is going to pin 8, and your bridge red wire is going to pin 4. That should be it if everything else seems to be and sounds to work the way it's supposed to.

Let me/us know how you make out...


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

Is this right then? Thats how it looks atm. Really thanks for helping me, means so much. Praise the internetz


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## SirMyghin (Jul 5, 2011)

To find out which is pin 8 or 4, flip the switch and watch the contacts. One of the contacts is out further then the others and connects with the strip that rotates, not the lip the contacts the other 3 contacts. This is your 'common' on that side, as the switch will always connect whatever position it is at to that one.

Aside from bad soldering that looks right. You want to hear the joint until the solder flows, yours looks a little globby, meaning it was not hot enough when you applied solder.


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

SirMyghin said:


> To find out which is pin 8 or 4, flip the switch and watch the contacts. One of the contacts is out further then the others and connects with the strip that rotates, not the lip the contacts the other 3 contacts. This is your 'common' on that side, as the switch will always connect whatever position it is at to that one.
> 
> Aside from bad soldering that looks right. You want to hear the joint until the solder flows, yours looks a little globby, meaning it was not hot enough when you applied solder.




Yeah, did that. The contact which is further is the 8 in this case.
Thanks for the soldering tip.


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> Is this right then? Thats how it looks atm. Really thanks for helping me, means so much. Praise the internetz



Nope, just the opposite. What you have labeled as pin 4 is actually pin 8 and vise versa. just swap those two red wires and that's it. The way it's wired now you'll get the bridge pickup in the neck position and the neck pickup in the bridge position.

Like I mentioned in the other post, the terminals are numbered as follows (with guitar neck to you left on your lap...):
Bottom row, left to right: 1-2-3-4
Top row, left to right: 8-7-6-5

The white wire coming off (in this picture...) the bottom left terminal is pin 5, which is the output wire. Keep in mind that this picture is being looked at upside down...


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

Okey. But then I need to turn the switch, right?

Otherwise from that. What can possibly be the fault?


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> Okey. But then I need to turn the switch, right?
> 
> Otherwise from that. What can possibly be the fault?



No. As long as you switch places of where both red wires are connected, that should be it. Are you still having an issue outside of this?


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

Still have the problem..


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

what's the issue, you have no neck pickup signal? Please explain more... Explain everything your having an issue with from this point, clearly and as descriptive as you can.


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

The first problem is the bridge pickup, that it isnt as clear as it should be. (you can hear at the first page). 

The neck pickup isnt so smooth. It crunchy and just ew... I can record it soon.


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

well, the only thing I can say is the following:
-Since your still having an issue, I would contact BKP if you haven't already and ask them for a wiring diagram specific to your application. How long ago did you buy these pickups? Do they have any kind of warranty on them?

-the next thing I would do is un-solder EVERYTHING in the guitar and re-wire it all yourself. the jack, pickups, the switch, everything and start from scratch. As long as you follow the diagram correctly, you should have no issue what so ever. 
-Use THIS diagram to wire the jack, and the controls,

-Use THIS diagram for the color codes ( second pickup color code down in the list... For your application, BOTH pickups will be wired as follows:
*Green & white soldered together and taped off well
*Black and bare soldered to the back of the volume pot casing
*Red is the hot output lead which goes to the switch

-Use THIS for wiring the switch. Don't use the one on the initial diagram, as it's more confusing trying to read that one. When you look at this, you want to look at diagram #5 on the 2nd page, which shows the 3 way switch and how you will need to wire it. NOTE: Your looking at the switch the exact way it's in the guitar now - guitar face down in your lap, metal base of the switch is on the bottom, closest to the edge of the cavity.

If you follow these directly as you see them (again, use the third link from EMG for how the switch is wired...), you should have NO issue what so ever. If this doesn't do it, then get a hold of a trusted luthier and have it done. If this new luthier still says there's a problem, ask him to be specific as to what the problem is, THEN get a hold of BKP for a possible warranty return, IF you even have a warranty on those pickups.

EDIT: If you want, you can wire everything EXCEPT the tone pot and bypass it all together... In the initial diagram, just dont' run the 2nd wire from the first pin of the volume to the tone pot. So in turn, that would be the output wire from pin 5 of the switch to the first pin on the volume pot, then the second pin of the volume pot gets wired to the jack. You can leave the tone pot installed in the guitar, but it'll just be bypassed and not leave a hole in the guitar.


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## SirMyghin (Jul 5, 2011)

Have you tried running a clean signal instead of a distorted signal while you get things worked out? Otherwise do everything above, it is correct (although I prefer to wire switches as par the first diagram). I wouldn't trust demoing anything on the 'tone' you have presented us with where there are issues, it is dead and flat for both pickups.


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

SirMyghin said:


> Have you tried running a clean signal instead of a distorted signal while you get things worked out? Otherwise do everything above, it is correct (although I prefer to wire switches as par the first diagram). I wouldn't trust demoing anything on the 'tone' you have presented us with where there are issues, it is dead and flat for both pickups.



The only reason I'm having him go by the EMG diagram for the switch as it'd be exactly what he's looking at when he looks at his switch that's in the guitar now. The one in the initial wiring diagram is or can tend to be more confusing as to how and where to wire the hot leads from the pickups.

Trying to keep it as simple as I can for the kid/guy...


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## leonardo7 (Jul 5, 2011)

Maybe I missed it in the thread but what is the problem with taking the guitar back to the shop and telling them it was wired wrong and will they please fix it? Have we even confirmed yet that it is the wiring? Also, I hope its not that the neck pickup is in the bridge and the bridge is in the neck position. Im not sure how the aftermath neck sounds in the bridge but Id rule out everything I could at this point.


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

leonardo7 said:


> Maybe I missed it in the thread but what is the problem with taking the guitar back to the shop and telling them it was wired wrong and will they please fix it? Have we even confirmed yet that it is the wiring? Also, I hope its not that the neck pickup is in the bridge and the bridge is in the neck position. Im not sure how the aftermath neck sounds in the bridge but Id rule out everything I could at this point.



The whole problem was he brought it to someone he didn't trust right off the bat, so he got screwed by the guy doing a half-ass job and raking him over the coals for it. I sure as hell wouldn't be bringing my guitar back to someone I don't trust, let alone if he did the job fucked up to begin with... I'd be pissed right off if I was him at that tool-shed. This is why I stated in an earlier post that you never, EVER bring your guitar/instrument to someone you don't trust. That is rule #1 of any instrument repair. If you can't do it yourself, it's worth the extra to pay more and go a little further and have it done right the first time.

At this rate, we're trying to determine if it is the wiring first. Then if he re-wires it and it's still not right, then it points to a pickup being bad. This is also why I asked the OP if he got them new, how long ago and if he's got any kind of warranty on them. I know BKP's warranty is hit or miss in certain countries, and we here in the US get them and are told "your on your own" with them as far as a warranty goes. This is why I personally won't spend more than $250 for a set of pickups, and won't spend a dime on ones that don't have a warranty on them if I buy them new...

The other thing is he's got an aftermath bridge and cold sweat in the neck. This is also why we're trying to get thru the wiring first to make sure that both pickups are in the right spot on the switch for tonal reasons. When it comes to trouble-shooting pickups and electronics, it starts with the wiring, and goes from there. Always start with the easiest thing(s) first, and then go up the ladder from there. So we'll know if he re-wires it it it's the wiring or the pickup(s)...


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

I bought them directly from BKP, which means I got that lifetime guaranty. 
I did even got an reply from Tim yesterday who said that there were nothing wrong with the pups.

Anyway, I did remove the pots now, so I could take better photage of it.
(becuase I dont know if the wires are right)


****See if anything is looking suspiciously wrong****

1. This is the first pot, and its the tone knob.






2. Picture showing the wirings between the pots and jack.





3.





4. And from there... to the switch.






I hope this helps. And if it isnt the wirings fault, I don't know what to do. Then thats it I think.


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## SirMyghin (Jul 5, 2011)

Why is that wire so grimey on the switch? Have you tried a dry or at least clean, flat EQ signal yet? The wiring, schematically, looks alright, I don't normally wire the capacitor to the wiper though.

Also, where is the ground to the bridge? 

What exactly is the current problem?


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 5, 2011)

I agree the wiring looks correct...


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

Here is a recording http://soundcloud.com/oliviergus/bkp-test

I'm playing some random stuff (chuggs/clean/riff)
Rough recording...


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## SirMyghin (Jul 5, 2011)

Nothing at your link in terms of sound.


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

Sorry. Now its working:
BKP test by Oliviergus on SoundCloud - Create, record and share your sounds for free


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## Dead Undead (Jul 5, 2011)

Seek new amplifier.

Try using a boost.

What are your settings?


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## SirMyghin (Jul 5, 2011)

Very little of that is clean, gives a better idea though. What settings are you using on your amp for this, all of your 'tones' you have posted thus far sound like absolute garbage, so it would be good if you filled us in as to how you are Eq'ing your amp. Your cleans are a bit bassy and are hence sagging, you also seem to have quite uneven picking relative to the lows being hit harder by far than the highs.


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## oliviergus (Jul 5, 2011)

its a Pod XT, with mishas preset. And the cleans are a line6 preset... But to be honest, I didnt create this thread to get my tones struck down..

Did someone notice the metallic sound on the cold sweat? You hear when it is the Cold sweat, and when it is the aftermath..


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## pathos45 (Jul 5, 2011)

its the pod it self thats doing it, dotn use someone elses settings make your own up to what sounds good for your pickups. Try a bunch of diffrent amps too, pretty much what it sounds like to me is the pickups wired right just the eq for the tone is not contrasting the pickups well at all. If you have the metalshop pack i suggest either the slo or the criminal model (5150) give you a much ebtter tighter sound that will work with the BKP. I also found that mishas presets sounded like garbage when i downlaoded them on my guitar that had emgs 808s, and even in my ibby 7 with a x2n7 in the bridge. The pickups them selfs will sound diffrent from emgs as emgs have a preamp in them and pretty mcuh all emgs sound like emgs, and like someone said emgs are great for recording but so are BKP you just gotta set up your pod so it meshes well with it.


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## SirMyghin (Jul 5, 2011)

oliviergus said:


> its a Pod XT, with mishas preset. And the cleans are a line6 preset... But to be honest, I didnt create this thread to get my tones struck down..
> 
> Did someone notice the metallic sound on the cold sweat? You hear when it is the Cold sweat, and when it is the aftermath..



What I am getting at is that it is very difficult to judge if there actually is an issue with anything, or if it is your inability to calibrate a rig, when everything you give us is lacking. The issue, as it stands, is not the pickup it is you given no evidence to the contrary. I would love to help you, but you have to realize how little you are bringing to the table.


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 6, 2011)

pathos45 said:


> its the pod it self thats doing it, dotn use someone elses settings make your own up to what sounds good for your pickups. Try a bunch of diffrent amps too, pretty much what it sounds like to me is the pickups wired right just the eq for the tone is not contrasting the pickups well at all. If you have the metalshop pack i suggest either the slo or the criminal model (5150) give you a much ebtter tighter sound that will work with the BKP. I also found that mishas presets sounded like garbage when i downlaoded them on my guitar that had emgs 808s, and even in my ibby 7 with a x2n7 in the bridge. The pickups them selfs will sound diffrent from emgs as emgs have a preamp in them and pretty mcuh all emgs sound like emgs, and like someone said emgs are great for recording but so are BKP you just gotta set up your pod so it meshes well with it.





SirMyghin said:


> What I am getting at is that it is very difficult to judge if there actually is an issue with anything, or if it is your inability to calibrate a rig, when everything you give us is lacking. The issue, as it stands, is not the pickup it is you given no evidence to the contrary. I would love to help you, but you have to realize how little you are bringing to the table.




^ This, 100%... Nobody here is trying to shoot you down for your tones... All we're saying is you need to be specific as to what you think is wrong in as much detail as possible. Since we don't have tthe guitar in hand to play and check ourselves, we can't fully see, hear or understand what the problem is. 

Next is the issue of trying to run the same settings from one guitar with X pickups to another guitar with Y pickups... You will always need to change your settings and EQ's accordingly to get the sound YOU like and are happy with. You can't always judge an opinion on something preset and think it's the best thing ever. To give you an idea, I have 5 different ESP 7's and an ESP 8 - all with different EMG pickups, body materials, bridges and I'm running thru a Line 6 Vetta head. All 6 guitars have different amp and EQ settings to accomodate them all, as each one sounds different. So you're gonna need to re-tweak all your settings and eq's to re-dial in the new tone. Even if you had 2 of the same identical guitars, 90% chance that you'd have to set the channels and EQ's different anyway - just like no 2 identical cars drive and handle the same way...

Lastly - in listening to the last recording, one of the 2 pickups sounded fine. It's more noticable in the clean channel. It sounds like the pickup you play on first has a nice, loud clear signal, while the second one has a weak signal. When the second one was played with the distortion, it didn't have the same distortion and volume level as the first one did. So if the first one is the bridge pickup, the bridge sounds fine. If the weaker signaled one is the neck pickup, re-check and possibly re-solder the hot lead to the switch. It sounds like it's a bad connection which explains the weak signal it has for that second pickup.

So try re-doing the neck pickup connection, and re-tweak your tones some to dial in the new sound better... What ever is making that second pickup sound weak is very minor and is most likely a connection. Another word of wisdom about soldering: DO NOT blow on the solder connections you make. By blowing on them, it creates an internal air pocket which develops and contains moisture, which in turn will corrode the connection from the inside out. So once you make a connection, let it cool naturally.


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## Valserp (Jul 7, 2011)

Well, the neck pickup does definitely sound like there is something off. Like - it's in permanent coil-split, or something of the sorts... Definitely sounds like it's wired wrong.


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## noob_pwn (Jul 8, 2011)

I have 2 BRJ's with BKP's and for the entire rhythm tracking on my band's album we just did we used an LTD Viper 401 with EMG's. Why? it just worked


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## jllozano (Jul 9, 2011)

something to also check is pickup AND Polepiece height...BK pickups are EXTREMELY sensitive in those 2 departments


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## CrushingAnvil (Jul 10, 2011)

Your tone is awful, that might have something to do with it


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## jllozano (Jul 10, 2011)

CrushingAnvil said:


> Your tone is awful, that might have something to do with it



 give him a break guys


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 10, 2011)

jllozano said:


> give him a break guys



Sir Myghin and I are ones who's been trying to help the guy the whole time. In his last recording, it sounded almost right with the exception of having a bad connection on the neck pickup. If he gets that straitened out and re-tweaks both pickup and pole piece heights and re-tweaks his tones, he'll have a much better tone to play wit and won't be as bummed out as he is about the whole ordeal.

Not only is/was this a trail and error basis, but also a much needed learning experience for him - both in not bringing your guitar to someone you don't trust  and in how to put pickups in and do electronics work yourself to save yourself money and aggrivation like he did.


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## maxoom (Jul 10, 2011)

I always use a clean channel of the amp to check my wiring jobs.
Why put all that extra crap on the signal and then expect to hear if everything is working right? I tap the pickups with a screw driver and can tell if it`s wired right!
Once you know they are wired right it takes a bit of tweaking to get the adjustments right and dial in that type of tone you are after.


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## Kamikaze7 (Jul 10, 2011)

maxoom said:


> I always use a clean channel of the amp to check my wiring jobs.
> Why put all that extra crap on the signal and then expect to hear if everything is working right? I tap the pickups with a screw driver and can tell if it`s wired right!



Very true to this as well. After I get everything in and back together I'll tap it lightly with a screwdriver first before I put the strings on it. If they respond to the taps, then I'll string it and test it on a clean channel first to tell tone-wise if it's wired correctly. Thanks for postin this, as it's something I and I'm sure others forgot to mention to the OP...


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## bostjan (Jul 10, 2011)

Tapping with a wrench or screwdriver should have been about the first step done in troubleshooting.

If a coil is dead, bingo.

If not, then do the wriggle test to check for intermittent connections. If there are none, then go through the steps you have already done.

In the end, it may just be that the BKP's aren't right for you, but from the sound of it, something else is wrong.


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