# Some 2K clear coat advice needed!



## Serratus (Apr 11, 2017)

Hi all,
I've sprayed a lot of clear coats in my time, but they were all nitro. 
My process involved spraying several coats each day for 3 days or so, wet sanding at the start of each day to keep the orange peel effect to a minimum, then leaving it to harden (usually for a few weeks) before wet sanding flat and polishing.

But now I want to try a 2K auto lacquer (made up of lacquer, hardener and thinner). So how does the process differ?

- Do I need to spray as many coats, or do I need only a couple of coats (as the lacquer is much harder)?
- Will I likely get a similar orange peel surface that will need to be sanded flat and polished afterwards?
- Does the surface need keying between coats, etc?
- How long does 2K 'normally' take to dry?
- Do I clean the spray gun with the thinners after spraying?

I've generally heard that nitro is not easy to spray so I'm hoping the 2K might be an easier job overall!!lol

Thanks for any advice!


----------



## pondman (Apr 11, 2017)

Why don't you just get some Spraymax 2K Rich ? 
Either way its way thicker than Nitro. You can loose the profile of a vinyl decal under just a few coats. 
15 min between coats on a hot day. A light sanding with a fine scotch bright pad is all it needs from dry .


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 11, 2017)

Serratus said:


> Hi all,
> I've sprayed a lot of clear coats in my time, but they were all nitro.
> My process involved spraying several coats each day for 3 days or so, wet sanding at the start of each day to keep the orange peel effect to a minimum, then leaving it to harden (usually for a few weeks) before wet sanding flat and polishing.
> 
> ...



I've only sprayed automotive paints with a paint gun a few times, but I would do 3-4 light coats in a single day, giving it maybe a half hour to tack up between coats, let it harden for a week before handling and wet sanding. Yes orange peel would happen, it can be wet sanded out. And yes clean the gun with thinners. That stuff will harden inside the nozzle... no good. 

But anyway, my results have usually been fine for the guitars I have worked on, but then it's been a while since I've painted from a gun cause of moving and not having the equipment for a spray setup (yet). More recently I've had nice results with Eastwood 2k aerosol cans. I'd love to see more input from others on this subject, I'm thinking of doing more painting in another build soon.


----------



## karnivorus (Apr 11, 2017)

Usually with 2k clear you can cut and buff in 24 hours.

I've used the spraymax 2k on my last build:

1 medium coat followed by 2 wet coats. 
wait 15-20 mins between coats.
let harden 24 hours.
wet sand with 1500 to remove imperfections.
buff to a high gloss with your polish of choice.

result, mirror finish in a day.





[/URL]


----------



## IGC (Apr 11, 2017)

Can this type of clear coat be sprayed over a few grain enhancing tung oil coats without any chemical reaction problems...bubbles etc. ?


----------



## Petar Bogdanov (Apr 12, 2017)

No idea, but much of the same effect can be achieved with an an oil-based impregnating primer, which definitely worked with the 2K poly I tried.


----------



## cardinal (Apr 12, 2017)

Be mindful that the catalyst in 2k paint is very nasty. If you don't have a proper spray booth, you might want to just stick with nitro.


----------



## cardinal (Apr 12, 2017)

IGC said:


> Can this type of clear coat be sprayed over a few grain enhancing tung oil coats without any chemical reaction problems...bubbles etc. ?



I believe that dealing with something like dewaxed shellac will let you spray practically anything over something else.


----------

