# First Build - Body for an Ibanez baritone 7 neck



## Karlplague (Feb 14, 2013)

Hey guys, so I've been working on this project for a while now, it's actually almost finished, but have finally decided to post its progress up here!

I decided that I wanted to build a 7 string but thought that for my first, I'd buy a pre-made neck to keep things simple.... Well a bit simpler anyway...
I'm a drummer. Certainly no guitar genius, so this was all new to me. I just like building shit, and well..... 7 strings are just awesome, so I dove in head first!

I searched ebay and found a brand new 26.5" scale Ibanez 7 string neck, so I bought it and removed the logo.

Decided to go with black limba for the body and choose the rest of the components as I went.
I found a nice slab on ebay US and ordered it.

I started with a Jem blueprint, widened the neck pocket size, made a 6mm MDF template and began.

I also figured that a router table would be handy so I built one.

MORE TO COME VERY SOON!


----------



## rcsierra13 (Feb 14, 2013)

Where did you manage to snag the RGD neck? Been looking for one for ages for one of my builds and had no luck  Looking forward to seeing how this build turns out!

EDIT: just saw eBay. Any chance you could give us the store name?


----------



## jarnozz (Feb 14, 2013)

This is my build all over xD Had the same neck, only with a floyd rose nut instead of a normal nut. Brings up some good memories! Mine turned out incredibly nice, hope yours does to!


----------



## skeels (Feb 14, 2013)

Nice piece of limba.

Where did you find the Jem template?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 14, 2013)

rcsierra13 said:


> Where did you manage to snag the RGD neck? Been looking for one for ages for one of my builds and had no luck  Looking forward to seeing how this build turns out!
> 
> EDIT: just saw eBay. Any chance you could give us the store name?



Yeah I was just really lucky with my timing. It was from Ibanez sale items - Get great deals on Guitar Necks, Bridges Tremolo System items on eBay Stores! 

It's already strung up, ill have the rest of the pics up over the next few days! So keep an eye out!


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 14, 2013)

skeels said:


> Nice piece of limba.
> 
> Where did you find the Jem template?



I'm pretty sure that I just Googled "RG blueprint" or "Ibanez jem blueprint." 
It was a long time ago so I don't really remember. 

I'm really excited to see how the limba looks after I've tung oiled it


----------



## rcsierra13 (Feb 14, 2013)

Karlplague said:


> Yeah I was just really lucky with my timing. It was from Ibanez sale items - Get great deals on Guitar Necks, Bridges Tremolo System items on eBay Stores!
> 
> It's already strung up, ill have the rest of the pics up over the next few days! So keep an eye out!



I've had my eye on that store for ages! Had a mate get one too. Guess I'm just unlucky


----------



## theo (Feb 14, 2013)

Reinar, I have one of these necks too


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 14, 2013)

Next I mounted my template to my block with countersunk screws (countersunk below the surface so it will sit flat when face down) 
I screwed into areas where the pickup cavities would eventually be so there will be no holes left over.
I then traced around the template, and then again with a washer, giving me an outer line to cut to with a jig saw.
After the block was cut to the outer line, I flipped it over and used a copy router bit to trim the edges back flush with the template.


----------



## Brohoodofsteel75 (Feb 14, 2013)

Subbed! I hope it works out man!


----------



## theo (Feb 17, 2013)

Bump for updates?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 18, 2013)

Next I made a neck pocket template and used it to rout out the neck pocket.
(I only have a photo of it clamped to my test board)
The pocket came out well so I drilled my neck holes and used a forstner bit to drill out the counter-sink for the neck screw ferrules to sit in.
Once the neck was fitted, I measured up my bridge placement, marked it out and drilled my string-though holes and bridge mounting holes.

Next step was to create pickup hole templates. This took patience. I cut the rough shape with an electric jig saw then used rasps and sand paper to get it as good as I could.

I then routed out the pickup cavities. Worked great!

All seems to be coming along well so far!


----------



## Suitable (Feb 18, 2013)

Nice looking axe! Will be nice when its tung oiled! Are you using pure or a blend? What pups are going in? Again, nice work!


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 18, 2013)

Suitable said:


> Nice looking axe! Will be nice when its tung oiled! Are you using pure or a blend? What pups are going in? Again, nice work!



Thanks man!
I'm going to cut it down with turps and increase the ratio of oil with every coat.
That way it should soak into the wood nicely and then finish up nicely at the end.

I've actually done a small test piece. Looks amazing! Might have to put a photo up.

I've got Dimarzio Crunch Lab and Liquifire going in it


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 18, 2013)

Now that my pickup cavities are done, its time to do some body shaping.
I want to put a binding around the guitar but I also want to have an arm contour. 
Looks like a jig needs to be built to make this work!
(Kinda nervous - but Im pretty sure I can do it)

So anyways, for my shaping, I used rasps. I marked the point on the top of the guitar where the contour will reach and then did the same on the side and slowly worked the wood away.

Contours came out perfectly!

The binding channel needs to be routed vertically straight with changing height so i need some kind of free-sliding drop router.

I based my jig off Stew Macs binding router jig. 
I visited a CNC materials place and picked up some slotted aluminium and various sliders, fastners and "L" brackets.
I found a nice cut off piece of plate at an aluminium supplies place. This will be used to mound my trimmer to.
I found some plastic at an industrial plastics supplier and made a washer from it by bolting it to a drill press and using a metal ruler to scrape it like a lathe. This will slide across the body of the guitar, following the contour shape, setting the height of the router. 


Once I'd put the jig together, I went for it!

Most of it worked perfectly but there were a couple of small fixable problems.

During routing, my guide bearing ceased and cut a channel into the side of the guitar.
This can be sanded back later on.

Some parts of the rout on the arm contour were a little angled off at the edge so I cleaned them up with a chisel. Also, my plastic guide washer was a little too wide, so the transition from the flat rout to the angle didn't go perfectly. Again, I just cleaned this up with a chisel.

I used a hair dryer to heat and shape the binding and used IPS Weldon Acrylic cement to glue the binding to the body. Electrical tape to hold it to dry. I then used a metal ruler to scrape off the excess binding.

was a mission, but it worked out ok 

































































(Got bored)


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 19, 2013)

Nice man, that's gonna look sick, especially since it's a single piece body. I have that router too


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Nice man, that's gonna look sick, especially since it's a single piece body. I have that router too



The body is actually 2 pieces. I's joined down the middle.
The router has been great, but I want to get a 1/2" collet router so I don't have to do so many passes. If I get a bigger bit, I'd be able to rout a body shape in 1 pass!


----------



## JaeSwift (Feb 19, 2013)

How does that router jig work when routing a binding channel? Does it lower itself automatically with the forearm contour?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

JaeSwift said:


> How does that router jig work when routing a binding channel? Does it lower itself automatically with the forearm contour?



Yeah the router slides freely up and down with the height of the face of the guitar. So as you slide the guitar under the jig, the height drops gradually then climbs back up.


----------



## JaeSwift (Feb 19, 2013)

Karlplague said:


> Yeah the router slides freely up and down with the height of the face of the guitar. So as you slide the guitar under the jig, the height drops gradually then climbs back up.



Brilliant! Where did you get it, or did you build it yourself?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

JaeSwift said:


> Brilliant! Where did you get it, or did you build it yourself?



I built it myself.
Stew Mac make a jig that does this.

STEWMAC.COM : TrueChannel Binding Router Jig


----------



## CaptainLuckeyBeard (Feb 19, 2013)

This looks bad ass! Black limba is gorgeous! Also, the fact that you've built and modded tools to put everything together is sooo awesome. Respect


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

CaptainLuckeyBeard said:


> This looks bad ass! Black limba is gorgeous! Also, the fact that you've built and modded tools to put everything together is sooo awesome. Respect



Thanks man!

I just love building! So much fun!


----------



## Randy (Feb 19, 2013)

Karlplague said:


>



I'm surprised by the lack of tearout, considering how much you're removing before you reach the template.


----------



## ECGuitars (Feb 19, 2013)

Damn dude, this is a killer looking body, really jealous of that piece of limba you got there!


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

Randy said:


> I'm surprised by the lack of tearout, considering how much you're removing before you reach the template.



The wood cut really nicely. I used decent speed and went slowly. No problems at all.


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

Next, I used a brad bit to bore out the recess for my string ferrules on the back.
Done.
Then it was time for the control cavities.
I decided to go for 1 volume, 1 tone and a 3 way switch.

I decided to use wood for the covers so I got out the offcuts from the original slab and worked out some shapes that would match the grain of the body.

Going to make the lids magnetic, so ordered some small magnets from ebay for like $1.20 lol.

I made templates from MDF and routed out my cavities.

Also got my Sperzel tuners and fitted them to the headstock.

Now bolted together and ready for a test string up.....




















Small bit of tearout on the inside edge of the input jack cavity - will be covered so doesn't really matter.


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 19, 2013)

Karlplague said:


> The body is actually 2 pieces. I's joined down the middle.
> The router has been great, but I want to get a 1/2" collet router so I don't have to do so many passes. If I get a bigger bit, I'd be able to rout a body shape in 1 pass!



Well kudos on the join then dude!

You're probably like me, looking for long bits and finding them only in 1/2" shanks - try here:

Single bit, 2 pc Set items in Super Carbide Tools store on eBay!

I'm going to get a couple of these for jointing the faces of neck pieces, and a 2" version for bodies. Also thinking about getting the non-bearing ones so I can fit my own bearing to make a pattern bit.

1 PC 1 4" SH 3" Blade Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit | eBay

I got a reply back from him on shipping to New Zealand, US$11.00 to ship one, $16.00 to two, so all up still cheaper or about equal to most of the local options.


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Well kudos on the join then dude!
> 
> You're probably like me, looking for long bits and finding them only in 1/2" shanks - try here:
> 
> ...



Wow! I haven't seen one of those long bits before. (for a 1/4" collet anyways)
I wonder how they go... Im a little worried about using something that long with such a small collet... Its more srewing around but I think the 1/2" router will be the better option in the long run... Don't know really. I might give one a go..


----------



## jakeofthumbs (Feb 19, 2013)

It's a shit hot guitar.

As I now live in the same house as Karlplague, I can testify to the fact that at some point, he will be building a left handed version.


----------



## theo (Feb 19, 2013)

Jake you should learn to play right handed, I'm a lefty but I play right handed guitar. Makes things so much easier!


----------



## jakeofthumbs (Feb 19, 2013)

theo said:


> Jake you should learn to play right handed, I'm a lefty but I play right handed guitar. Makes things so much easier!



No chance. Which is strange, since I do a lot of things right handed (batting in cricket and baseball, golf..) but I just could never do it.


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

jakeofthumbs said:


> No chance. Which is strange, since I do a lot of things right handed (batting in cricket and baseball, golf..) but I just could never do it.



Batting in general


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 19, 2013)

Karlplague said:


> Wow! I haven't seen one of those long bits before. (for a 1/4" collet anyways)
> I wonder how they go... Im a little worried about using something that long with such a small collet... Its more srewing around but I think the 1/2" router will be the better option in the long run... Don't know really. I might give one a go..



I'm ordering a few in a couple of days so I'll report back. You're right about the 1/2" collet for routing the side of a body, I'd like to eventually have a 1/2" as my table mounted router, and leave the 1/4" for routing by hand. My main use for these bits will be shaving down neck pieces to give them a taper, probably less than half a millimetre per pass, but I'll give one a flogging and see whether it could do a body


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 19, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> I'm ordering a few in a couple of days so I'll report back. You're right about the 1/2" collet for routing the side of a body, I'd like to eventually have a 1/2" as my table mounted router, and leave the 1/4" for routing by hand. My main use for these bits will be shaving down neck pieces to give them a taper, probably less than half a millimetre per pass, but I'll give one a flogging and see whether it could do a body



I just bought a 2" one. Gonna give it a go later on.
But yeah thats a good idea. Ill have a 1/2" mounted to the table, a 1/4" for hand work and I have my trimmer for small stuff like inlay work, bindings etc.


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 20, 2013)

Karlplague said:


> I just bought a 2" one. Gonna give it a go later on.
> But yeah thats a good idea. Ill have a 1/2" mounted to the table, a 1/4" for hand work and I have my trimmer for small stuff like inlay work, bindings etc.



Are you talking about a laminate trimmer for inlay, or a dremel/rotary tool? I would have thought they'd be a little too bulky for intricate stuff?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 20, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Are you talking about a laminate trimmer for inlay, or a dremel/rotary tool? I would have thought they'd be a little too bulky for intricate stuff?



Yeah thats what I meant but you're probably right. I've never really done any of that stuff. Though being careful and taking time, it could probably work.


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 20, 2013)

Here it is! strung up!

Everything went together nicely. It plays well! Got a couple of small things to tidy up then I'll begin oiling!


----------



## jakeofthumbs (Feb 20, 2013)

Karlplague said:


> Here it is! strung up!
> 
> Everything went together nicely. It plays well! Got a couple of small things to tidy up then I'll begin oiling!



Imma let that batting comment slide, coz I'm nice.

Such awesome pics!


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 20, 2013)

Nice one man, really nice. I don't even feel stupid thinking that was a 1 piece body, the glue join is bloody invisible!

Bought that 3" Flush Trim today, so we'll have to compare notes soon.


----------



## rcsierra13 (Feb 20, 2013)

Congrats! Looks awesome! 

Where did you source the wood from?


----------



## Ethenmar (Feb 21, 2013)

Awesome work!


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 22, 2013)

rcsierra13 said:


> Congrats! Looks awesome!
> 
> Where did you source the wood from?



Picked it up from an Ebay store.
guitar bodies items - Get great deals on Jazz bass body, telecaster body items on eBay Stores!


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 25, 2013)

First coat of tung oil applied! :-D


----------



## theo (Feb 25, 2013)

Lookin pretty schmick!!


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 25, 2013)

Looks really good man, did you just wipe on a thin coat, or use the method where you leave a heap of it to soak in for 30-60 minutes?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 25, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Looks really good man, did you just wipe on a thin coat, or use the method where you leave a heap of it to soak in for 30-60 minutes?



I followed the directions on the oil tin.

Generous application and let it sit wet for approx 15 mins. Wipe off excess and leave for 24 hours before sanding lightly with 400 grit paper and applying next coat.


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 25, 2013)

Gotcha. Has the first coat done much grainfilling?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 25, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Gotcha. Has the first coat done much grainfilling?



what u mean?


----------



## JaeSwift (Feb 25, 2013)

Karlplague said:


> what u mean?



Regardless of what finish you apply, the first coats will soak in to the grain. The more coats, the more the grain gets filled, up to the point that there are no natural dimples caused by the grain and you get a mirror-smoothe finish. 

With oil finishes I used to apply 2 coats, then sand in the 3rd with 800 grit wet and dry paper, repeat that after it had dried, level sand it with 400 grit (with non-oily soap and warm water, lightly scuff) and then keep applying subsequent, thin coats to achieve your desired result. I applied the coats literally with my hand, didn't use a rag or anything. The 800 to 400 might sound weird but I found that I kept getting waaaaay too many sand marks in the oil with anything lower than that.

EDIT: To clarify, you sand while applying the oil so that a saw-dust-slurry is formed which soaks and fills the grain better than just oil alone.


----------



## theo (Feb 25, 2013)

Sorry for the noobish question, But what is wet and dry sandpaper?


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 25, 2013)

theo said:


> Sorry for the noobish question, But what is wet and dry sandpaper?



Its sandpaper with waterproof backing paper. It can be used when wet with water or lubricant or when dry. With liquid, the dust can move away easier, reducing clogging.

You can get really nice smooth finished with it.

Its real good with plastics and things especially for getting a super clean finish.


----------



## AwDeOh (Feb 25, 2013)

^ Yup. I was asking about the grain filling because we're about to start using Danish on a new set of Kwila kitchen counters, very deep grain.


----------



## Karlplague (Feb 26, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> ^ Yup. I was asking about the grain filling because we're about to start using Danish on a new set of Kwila kitchen counters, very deep grain.



I did my second coat last night... Grain filling is definitely happening. a few more coats and its gonna be so nice!


----------



## Karlplague (Mar 3, 2013)

Have done 4 coats so far. Looking/feeling real nice.
Only 1 or 2 left!


----------



## AwDeOh (Mar 5, 2013)

Hope you're taking photos after each coat, would be awesome to see the finish at each stage.

Also, pics or this never happened.


----------



## Karlplague (Mar 5, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Hope you're taking photos after each coat, would be awesome to see the finish at each stage.
> 
> Also, pics or this never happened.



:/

Kinda figured with my shitty camera that you wouldn't really notice too much difference between layers. Its not darkening or anything, the difference is mostly in the feel of it, so I didn't bother.
However, tonight Ill take one and post it how it looks now with 4 layers!


----------



## Karlplague (Mar 7, 2013)

Sorry about the crappy photo, light was too low and I was in a rush. This is with 4 coats of oil.


----------



## AwDeOh (Mar 8, 2013)

Looks really good man, the grain is getting better and better.

Can't really see how shiny the finish is in the photo, are you going to try keep it matte? Or go toward a gloss?


----------



## Karlplague (Mar 8, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Looks really good man, the grain is getting better and better.
> 
> Can't really see how shiny the finish is in the photo, are you going to try keep it matte? Or go toward a gloss?



Hey man, thanks! I'm pretty keen on keeping it matte. To be honest, I haven't really decided yet. I guess its only a few higher-grit pieces of sandpaper and a buffer to get it glossy if I want.
Ill wait to see how it looks after another coat or two


----------



## AwDeOh (Mar 8, 2013)

Yeh I'd stick with matte too, it's looking really good where it is. Not having to worry about fingerprints is always


----------



## Karlplague (Apr 21, 2013)

Ok, so after waiting weeks for backordered shielding paint and finding some spare time, I was finally able to finish this thing!

Ended up with 5 layers of tung oil on the body.
I used nickel screening spray paint and did 3 coats in my cavities.

Sanded with 400 grit paper, then went to 1000 grit for the final sand.

The finish feels unreal! So smooth! And it sounds amazing!


----------



## theo (Apr 21, 2013)

Dude that looks sick! You should post this in the guitars built by ss.org members thread!


----------



## Karlplague (Apr 21, 2013)

theo said:


> Dude that looks sick! You should post this in the guitars built by ss.org members thread!



Can I do that? or do the moderators do that?


----------



## theo (Apr 21, 2013)

You can do it yourself. Here's the thread.
http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...guitars-built-members-ss-org-pic-heavy-7.html


----------



## skeels (Apr 21, 2013)

That does look sweet man ! Great job!


----------



## Karlplague (Apr 21, 2013)

theo said:


> You can do it yourself. Here's the thread.
> http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...guitars-built-members-ss-org-pic-heavy-7.html



I might wait till I have the covers and logo before I do. Thanks for the link!


----------



## AwDeOh (Apr 22, 2013)

The cavities came out awesome man. I've always hated seeing guitars with that black/gray paint just slapped in full of dust and crap.


----------



## Pikka Bird (Apr 22, 2013)

This thing rules with an iron fist, man... I'm loving the tight pickup routs a LOT. Also, the shielding looks nice and clean. I have that same aversion to dirty shielding that AwDeOh has, i sometimes chisel the bumps off when I have my cavity covers off.


----------



## skisgaar (Apr 22, 2013)

I've got to say. I was sceptical about that wood looking good at all. I mean, I knew it would be good, I just didn't think it wasn't going to be DAAAAAAMMMNNNN stunning.





I couldn't have been more wrong.


----------

