# Black Limba, Koa & Wenge 7 String Build



## Hywel (Jun 8, 2015)

So, I've had fairly serious GAS for koa tops, limba bodies and wenge necks for a while. Since my last build was going well at the time, I started planning a 7 string using all of them. Unfortunately exams and a placement in Aberdeen for a couple of months slowed things down but it gave me plenty of time to get everything ready. The Aberdeen placement also gave me some ideas about gap that need filling in my collection so this is build 1 out of 2 I'll be doing at the same time. The other build will get it's own thread when it gets interesting enough.  (EDIT - Build 2 thread here)

Planned specs...

26.5" scale, 24 fret 7 string (EDIT - The 26.5" scale is proving a pain in the ass as no-one seems to slot fretboards at this length. I would choose 670mm next time which is ~26.3" but readily available)
~45mm Regius like body, own headstock
1 piece black limba body (with tone holes!)
Bookmatched Koa veneer
5 piece Wenge/Maple neck
Streaky ebony fretboard
Black bound body and headstock
Hipshot bridge, Vanson Locking tuners, Graphtech nut
DiMarzio D-Sonic & Air Norton pickups 




Everything started with a mockup.







followed by lots of prototyping with Fretfind and Adobe Illustrator.






Eventually when I was happy with everything, the Illustrator files were sent to Razorlab in London to get laser cut onto 3mm plywood (cost about £35-40). These were bulked up with 15mm MDF and a router table. Also you can see the stamp I bought to mark headstocks getting some good use. 






Wood was acquired (mostly from Germany via eBay. Some really good suppliers for neck blanks over there)






And a vast quantity of koa veneer was bought from the US (WTS post for the spare sheets in the marketplace forum soon)






The figure I wanted wasn't in the middle of the sheets sadly so the veneer was cut to size and the straight bookmatched edge was cleaned up with my new homemade router table.











(that's spare walnut veneer from my last build I used to test the process in that last photo)

Next step was to stick the veneer to the limba using titebond and an iron. Annoyingly the blank was cut slightly off centre from the grain and had some "features" I wanted to be careful with that required a lot of thinking about how to place the veneer. Eventually I worked out what I thought was about right and stuck it all together.











So the "features" and "toneholes" I muttered about earlier were in fact worm holes. I knew about them before I bought the blank and it was greatly reduced because of them so I'm ok with them being there. I'm slightly worried I might run into them again when I start carving up the body I don't think they'll be a problem. I filled them with CA glue and limba dust.

The fancy "cover the bookmatch seam in a crap-load of masking tape" method of bookmatching worked well and the glue line is definitely an improvement over my first ever veneering attempt.






After that is was off to the bandsaw to trim the excess limba and prep the blank for the router table
















It looks almost like a guitar!

This is where my first major practical mistake happened though. I had positioned the veneer seam carefully over the centreline of the template and had it quite close to the edge of the quite narrow blank. When I was gluing the veneer down with the iron, It moved about 1mm towards the edge. This would have been fine as there was room left for exactly this but I didn't realise edge of the blank wasn't cut square. Since the back was a couple of mm narrower than the front, the template now slightly overhung the edge of the blank. 

So, the bottom had to be shifted a couple of millimetres off the centreline to fit everything in the area. If I'd realised earlier I could have left some room to compensate but ah well. The bookmatch seam will now be very slightly off centre at the bottom but I don't think it'll be very noticeable, especially with the offset shape.

Here's the bit that caused all the swearing to come from the work-room earlier tonight. 






On the plus side, grain! 






Next time I'll route everything flush and get the binding on!


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## BlackMastodon (Jun 8, 2015)

I like where this is headed. Good work so far!


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## pettymusic (Jun 9, 2015)

Yeah man, Looking good! That Limba looks great!!!


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## Knarbens (Jun 10, 2015)

Very cool project! Personally I'd think the head is missing some of the roundness of the body? Still looks very cool!


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## Berserker (Jun 10, 2015)

Those templates look awesome! I might have to check out Razorlab if I ever get good enough to be able to do accurate cad plans !


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## Hywel (Jun 10, 2015)

Thanks everyone! 

Haven't managed to make much progress recently but I should have something for you on Friday. All I've got is this.








Knarbens said:


> Very cool project! Personally I'd think the head is missing some of the roundness of the body? Still looks very cool!



I've also thought the head stock and body are a little bit mismatched. It's probably a little more suited to an RG style pointy body but I haven't managed to make a rounder one I prefer so I've stuck with it. Maybe I'll change it up for the 4th build. 



Berserker said:


> Those templates look awesome! I might have to check out Razorlab if I ever get good enough to be able to do accurate cad plans !



They've proven very helpful so far! Ponoko.com is the equivalent for the US if anyone else is interested. If you want to make the templates as cheap as possible avoid any unnecessary curved lines and text. Using the cheap 3mm plywood and bulking it up with thick MDF works really well too.


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## Renkenstein (Jun 10, 2015)

Lookin' better and better every build! Great progress, and I really like how you've increased accuracy with those templates. It'll pay off.


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## Hywel (Jun 12, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> Lookin' better and better every build! Great progress, and I really like how you've increased accuracy with those templates. It'll pay off.



Cheers . The templates have made everything much easier and knowing everything is in line and accurately placed makes it all much less stressful!

So, on to the pics. I rounded over the back (probably should have waited until later for this bit but never mind) and the bit was apparently a bit less sharp than it used to be so it's not as smooth as I hoped but a bit of sanding sorted that out mostly.






Then I added the binding channel.











Prebent the single ply, black ABS binding with a heat gun.






And promptly stuck it on with some plastic cement. 











Going to leave that to dry for a bit and scrap it flush at the weekend.

Practice definitely helps when it comes to binding. Much quicker and more accurate this time around. 

Oh and weight is 2.44Kg/5.4lbs without any routing in case anyone is interested.


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## AliceLG (Jun 12, 2015)

The streaking on that limba piece is


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## Hywel (Jul 8, 2015)

Ok, so build 2 ended up being build 1 and this got a bit left behind. I was really procrastinating about cutting the scarf (now officially my least favourite part of guitar building). 

Anyway, since I had a free day I decided to stop avoiding it and get on with it. Measured out the blank and planned the cuts in Illustrator to make sure the joint ends up where I wanted it. Marked the cut and added some MDF blocks to guide the ryoba saw for the first few inches.











It's at this point I realise what everyone meant when they said wenge was a pain to work with. Took me ages to cut the joint (the maple laminates were like butter in comparison!). One sore shoulder and a splinter later the cut comes out nice and clean but a bit angled.






I initially tried correcting it with a sanding beam which worked quite well but I ended up with a hump in the middle. 

Even though I don't like using it, I set up the router jig thing and tried to cut a flat/straight joint. As before, the router seemed to want to make a multiscale joint and kept giving me massive angles 

Eventually with much tweaking, something approaching what I wanted was produced.






Cleaned up the surfaces with some 80 grit on glass and checked everything still fitted. Luckily it did so it's now ready to glue.


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## TamanShud (Jul 9, 2015)

Your level of organisation is just staggering dude, keep on slaying it!


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## shikamaru (Jul 11, 2015)

This is promising keep up with the great job !


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## Hywel (Jul 15, 2015)

This is going slooooooow.

Jobs that took a few minutes on my previous necks (Sycamore and Spanish Cedar) take me an hour or more on Wenge just because its so stupidly hard! 

Anyway, enough complaining.

Prepped the blanks for glue with some 4mm dowels and glued the joint for about 3 minutes before I realised the dowels weren't stiff enough to stop slippage so it got pulled apart and did it again with 8mm dowels instead. 











That done I set about adding a truss rod. I used a 9mm cove bit for the access which was MUCH neater than last time but allowing the bit to exit the wood in a straight line rather than stopping early made the slot a little longer than planned. Not a problem, just need a slightly bigger cover. 






Next up was the 6mm truss rod slot. This went fine but I noticed that while the laminates were aligned top and bottom, they seemed to be slightly off in the middle of the join. No idea how that happened. We'll see if that becomes a problem when I carve the neck. 






Going back the the truss rod cover, I'm not a fan of wood screws or slot/cross heads. I'm aiming to have everything with either magnets (much neater) or hex head machine screws (much more robust). The truss rod cover was a magnet job so I added a handful of 4x3mm N35 neodymium discs around the access slot. With the veneer over the top they're invisible. 












And finally I trimmed the blank a bit so it'd fit in the bandsaw again and thinned the headstock down to 14mm. There was actual sparks coming from the blade/Wenge (I assume from the silica/mineral content) so that shows how hard this stuff is. Cleaned it up with a router jig and a razor blade scraper.






Next time I'm planning on cutting the outline, routing it flush and binding the headstock but that'll probably take another week or so at this rate. 

Oh and I forgot to mention, this is now going to be a 670mm/26.37795277" scale because my 26.5" board was a bit wonky and I don't think I can be accurate enough with a mitre box so I've ordered a much easier to find 670mm slotted blank instead.


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## Hywel (Jul 16, 2015)

So it didn't quite take a week....

Necks trimmed, routed flush and scraped smooth.






Binding channel for the headstock cut.






And binding glued on.






Tomorrow evening hopefully I can get back to the body and cut the neck pocket/pickup routes.


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## Deegatron (Jul 16, 2015)

Magnets under the veneer is by far the sneakiest thing I've ever seen in my life... well played sir... well played indeed...


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## KnightroExpress (Jul 16, 2015)

Yeah, that's damn cool. Great idea!


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## Hywel (Jul 16, 2015)

Thanks!

I initially tried it on my first build but it was way too weak with just 1 magnet so this time it should work fine hopefully.


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## pel (Jul 17, 2015)

beautiful wood man.


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## Hywel (Jul 17, 2015)

Binding tapes off and its all scraped flush. Couple of spots needed a quick fill but nothing major.






Got the holes drilled for the joint hardware and tuners. I added some tiny pilot holes for the T-nut barbs this time to help them seat properly in the hard Wenge.






Annoyingly, a mishap with the router left me with a slightly smaller headstock than I originally planned. I small chuck was taken out of the curved side and getting rid of that cost me about 2-3mm or so. Doesn't sound like much but now the tuners have to be mounted at an angle. 











Finally it was back to the body. Added some pickup routes.






And started in the neck joint. It's too tight at the moment so I'll fix that tomorrow






Plan for tomorrow is to finish the neck joint, route the control cavity, drill the wiring runs and carve the back.


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## Steinmetzify (Jul 17, 2015)

In. Added to the ever growing list of build threads I'm subscribing to on this forum. 

That koa veneer is friggin BEAUTIFUL and I can't wait to see it on there...magnets are slick as hell and I hope that works out for you cause it's COOL. 

Huge fan of the black binding, and the headstock shape is great. Mishap on the HS notwithstanding it looks like you're gonna get a pretty straight pull, at least to my untrained eyes. 

This is gonna be sick and I can't wait to see it unfold. You guys are ....ing geniuses when it comes to this stuff; I think the reason I love watching these besides the fact that the guitars always come out dope is that even though you've obviously done this before mistakes happen, and I'm interested in what you guys do to combat these when they happen. 

Thanks for the thread, dude.


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## Hywel (Jul 17, 2015)

Thanks for the kind words 

The string pull should hopefully still be straight. It's one of the things that really bothers me on some guitars. I designed the layout to be slightly compensated for sting thickness as well so it shouldn't have the 7th string doing that slight inward angle you occasionally see.

I've made a good number of mistakes in every build, most are minor enough to fix quickly with no after effects (i.e. steaming out dings, scraping out scratches), some require a bit of thought (i.e. messing up the Tru-oil finish several times, replacing binding, tweaking bridge placement) and some will cause a permanent mark or require a change to the design (my usual favourite for this category is routing chunks of wood out from where they were supposed to be. A quick template reposition might sort this but not always). Since all my builds are for personal use I just chalk it up to experience and move on. I'm hoping by the time I get to the final build I currently have plans for I should be avoiding most of them but I bet that one's full of CA glue and holes as well.


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## TamanShud (Jul 17, 2015)

Man this is just awesome! I don't wanna rush you but waiting for updates on this is killing me, I just wanna see it finished already.


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## Deegatron (Jul 17, 2015)

CA glue and holes. love it. 

Loving the build as well.

I'm in the same boat as Steinmetzify. Watching pro's do flawless work on epic once in a lifetime timber is awesome.... but watching the amateur builders with not enough tools, something to prove and crazy game changer idea's is something entirely more exciting for me. I feel like there is simply less and less innovation the more "pro" a builder gets... and that makes me sad.


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## Simic (Jul 18, 2015)

Koa + black binding is pure sex. Can't wait to see this finished


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## Hywel (Jul 18, 2015)

Glad you're enjoying all enjoying the build! 

Truss rods in with some silicone to stop any rattle. I used an offcut of wenge to bridge the gap under the nut to make sure it's supported nicely.







The neck joint got routed properly but it ended up being slightly rotated so the centerline was off by about 1mm. I sanded a bit of koa veneer down to about 0.35mm and titebonded it to the side of the pocket to push it back into line. I cut the pocket a little deeper with a bearing bit so the neck is still in full contact with the limba all the way around. The joint is also crazy tight. I have to lever the neck in otherwise it doesn't fit. Definitely passes the "hold the body in the air without screws" test.











Drilled the heel for the neck mounting screws (M4x40mm flanged button head, hex slot).






And carved the belly cut, lower horn and heel with microplane and shinto rasps, smoothed it all out with 80-240 grit paper.
















(I love the grain in that belly cut!)






I meant to route the control cavity as well but sorting the neck pocket took a while and I ran out of time so I'll save that for tomorrow.


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## Steinmetzify (Jul 18, 2015)

Nice and comfy, and yeah the grain on the belly cut is DOOOOOOOOPE!


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## Hywel (Jul 20, 2015)

steinmetzify said:


> the grain on the belly cut is DOOOOOOOOPE!



Wait 'til you see it with finish on! 


Mini update, got the control cavity sorted.

Made some templates in MDF and hogged out the bulk of the limba with a forstner bit.






Routed that clean, drilled the holes for the controls and routed one final pass to get the depth correct (I can use the holes to see how close I am to the top that way). I also found one of those worm holes again passing through the cavity which was interesting until it caused a bit of tearout for the output jack hole. Nothing that'll be seen in the end though so no biggie.

I was thinking about doing an ebony cover until I realised it'll just look like black plastic since the ebony I have has no streaking. Went to the offcuts box, grabbed a chunky piece of limba and sliced that up instead. Should work nicely! 






Finally routed in the ledge for the cover to sit on.






EDIT - BONUS PICS!

Fitted the cover and radiused the underside of the top end to provide an opening method. It's going to be secured with more magnets.











I'll probably drill some holes for the pickup wires and stick a fretboard on next time.


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## Steinmetzify (Jul 20, 2015)

Yaaaaassss


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## TamanShud (Jul 21, 2015)

Awwww yussss, suspense is killing me


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## Hywel (Jul 25, 2015)

I finally have enough stuff done to warrant an update!

Fretboard got stuck on. Use a couple of 1mm drill bits through some fret slots to line it up and it seemed to work ok.






Glued it on with Titebond before trimming it flush on the router table.






Drilled for the inlay using the neck templates (although the change in scale length meant I had to reposition them fairly frequently) and stuck it in. It's all 3mm glow in the dark/white dots from Hosco. Not quite as nice as Luminlay but a damn sight cheaper.











I radiused the fretboard to ~16" and used the sides of my planer jig to keep the block in a straight line. That worked well but I didn't change directions very often to it took me a bit longer to get a good even radius. I also kept scratching the ebony board by accident so I kept having to re-sand it from 240-1200 grit until I managed to get everything ready for fretting. 






Frets were pressed in. I initially tried a new roll of wire but the tang was too wide for the slots so I pulled that fret out (chipping the ebony slightly  ) and used the end of my last roll of 2.7x1.1mm nickel fretwire






Finally, I carved the neck. I started taking the edges off with a Shinto saw rasp before switching to a spokeshave and finally a scraper/sandpaper. I had a profile template laser cut when I had the main templates made so I used that for reference. Thickness is [email protected] and [email protected]
















So it's almost done. Next job is placing the bridge and string through holes/ferrules and starting the Tru-oiling process


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## Steinmetzify (Jul 25, 2015)

I know that wherever he is, skeels likes this. 

I like it too.....I'm going to want this thing when you're done, I can already tell. I dig the cavity cover idea, I'm in love with all the black binding I've ever seen and the whole thing just speaks to me in a loving type whispery voice....

Really digging the neck woods and that string pull is gonna rule.


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## Gallardo147 (Jul 25, 2015)

Man that looks amazing! Loving that neck heel. Fantastic woodwork. Hoping to start a build of my own soon too!


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## Yeah_man (Jul 26, 2015)

You sir, are an inspiration

You are not working in a massive area, looks like your living room!

Amazing progress pics and cant wait to see the updates.


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## Hywel (Jul 26, 2015)

steinmetzify said:


> I'm going to want this thing when you're done



I'll let you know if I ever plan to move it on 



Gallardo147 said:


> Man that looks amazing! Loving that neck heel. Fantastic woodwork. Hoping to start a build of my own soon too!



Cheers! Another one of my pet peeves is guitars where the neck heel doesn't flow into the body heel (I'm looking at you Suhr!). Lots of pencil marking and careful shaving with a fine, rounded microplane rasp gets it all smooth. I've found if you use the model with changeable blades, the plastic handle along the blade works REALLY well as a safe edge to run across the neck and get very accurate and smooth cuts. Looking forward to your build thread. 



Yeah_man said:


> You sir, are an inspiration
> 
> You are not working in a massive area, looks like your living room!



Thanks! My work room is a tiny spare bedroom in my rented student house that I share with 3 other medics so everything is done on spare furniture we moved in there as storage. Mostly I work on my router table (with the router retracted and off!) which is a cheap 3ftx1.5ft coffee table with MDF on top and the empty-ish space below it. It gets a bit cramped but I've got a feeling I'd cover anything bigger in tools and not end up any better off. 

I also don't have a proper vice of any kind so I'm really looking forward to getting a proper workbench at some point.


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## dankarghh (Jul 26, 2015)

Beautiful work here man. Clean points x1000


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## Hywel (Jul 27, 2015)

Penultimate update

Positioned the bridge using the strings to make sure it was all lined up and drilled all the holes.






Once again my wobbly hand drill stand thing meant slightly dodgy ferrules. They're all pretty much in line but with slightly funky spacing. I should probably get a bigger drill press...






Filled in the fret slots before giving everything a final sanding to 600 grit before finishing.






I'm trying out the spray aerosol Tru-oil for this one and it seems ok so far. First coat's looking like a good start. 






The next and probably final update will be when the Tru-oiling is finished and I've added all the wiring, hardware etc.

Hopefully this once is a bit less problematic than my walnut build was...


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## pondman (Jul 27, 2015)

Great work on that neck. This is looking superb.


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## weirdoku (Jul 27, 2015)

Sweeeeeeet as ..... But surely you must have the tools to make a ferrule block instead of using individual ferrules?


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## Hywel (Jul 27, 2015)

pondman said:


> Great work on that neck. This is looking superb.



Things ticked off luthiery bucket list today...

Build complimented by Pondman &#10004;

Cheers 



weirdoku said:


> Sweeeeeeet as ..... But surely you must have the tools to make a ferrule block instead of using individual ferrules?



Good point! I might have a think while the oils drying...


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## Deegatron (Jul 27, 2015)

Just a suggestion.
For drilling ferrule holes:
I use a template. Had some scrap 1" thick walnut that I drilled with 6 perfectly spaced 3/8" holes (I like to use the flush mount style ferrules). 
The walnut is double stick taped to the back of the body so that it matches up with the string through holes "as best as possible".
Then I drill the holes with a 3/8" brad point bit with a depth stop collar.
The brad point centers on the template and not the string through holes.

I get 100% perfect results every time regardless of how strait my string through holes are. I've also done it by hand with the template... its not as easy but still works 100%.

Let me know if anything is unclear and I can provide pictures...


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## Hywel (Jul 27, 2015)

That sounds like a good plan. I'll try that next time.


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## pondman (Jul 27, 2015)

Its dead easy to get the ferule holes correct.
Just drill the two outer holes first from the top and then draw a line on the back from the centres of these 2 holes and mark the other holes in between with a rule, centre punch then brad drill. 
Bullet proof


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## immortalx (Jul 29, 2015)

This is coming along perfect man! It's unbelievable that you do all the work in such a tiny space and produce such fine results!


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## Carver (Jul 29, 2015)

this thing is coming along so well... that neck looks awesome. Well done man.


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## Hywel (Jul 29, 2015)

Thanks everyone!

However I lied a bit, this is now the penultimate update. 

The ferrule holes were bugging me so I followed weirdoku's advice and made a ferrule block from african blackwood (super dense and similar to ebony). I tried this before on my walnut build but it failed miserably as my tools weren't up to the job but now I have the proper router, bits and drill press/drum sanding thingy, I think it came out quite well. Certainly an improvement on the original holes.

I made the template first from MDF and shaped the wood to fit the template. I routed the body and then hammered in the ferrule block for a nice tight fit (no glue needed!).







I left the block poking out the top a bit so I could cut it down flush with the back with a chisel and sanding blocks.






While its still not quite perfect, it'll do. 






And oiled...


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## eddiewarlock (Jul 30, 2015)

looks amazing!!


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## Deegatron (Jul 30, 2015)

I also approve! Fantastic upgrade!


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## Steinmetzify (Jul 30, 2015)

Really clean nice touch, man. Looks badass.


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## TamanShud (Jul 31, 2015)

So keen to see this finished!


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## Hywel (Aug 7, 2015)

Soon...


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## Steinmetzify (Aug 7, 2015)

Just class, man. Dig the small inlays, headstock matches well and looks good and your logo is very tasteful. Nice all around.


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## Hywel (Aug 11, 2015)

Tru-oiling took a while as usual and I had some problems but those were sorted with some mineral spirits and 600grit. I tried the aerosol version this time and I really liked it so I'll be using that again in the future.

Anyway, with the oil cured, I shielded the cavities with graphite spray/copper foil and added the ground wires.






I did the basic wiring on the template so I could drop the harness in when it was ready. This guitar has the usual 2 humbucker, 3 way toggle, push/pull coil split setup but with a treble bleed and variable resistors on the coil split grounds so you can control how much of the inactive coil gets dumped to ground. This helps beef up the single coil sound and increase the output a bit. The PRS DGT model uses the same wiring and that's where I borrowed the idea from.

Wiring diagram here if anyone's interested -> http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5712108/Hywel%207%20String%20Wiring.pdf











I attached the hardware and drilled/tapped for the pickups mounting screws. I did my usual thing of directly threading the wood (hardened with CA glue) for M2x0.4 machine screws to get the benefits of using inserts without actually having to buy inserts.











I stuck the neck on, added some strings (11-49+64) and it's done!

(excessive pic dump incoming!)


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## Hywel (Aug 11, 2015)

And with it's brother, my first scratch build in Walnut and Sycamore











Thanks for reading everyone, I hope you enjoyed the thread.


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## BlackMastodon (Aug 11, 2015)

Pic dump is never excessive. Looks great, man, congrats!


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## neun Arme (Aug 12, 2015)

looks really good, I particularly like the headstock.


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## TamanShud (Aug 12, 2015)

This turned out awesome man! You got some mad talents to make that in a spare room


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## dankarghh (Aug 12, 2015)

Congrats man. Jealous of that thing.


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## Spicypickles (Aug 12, 2015)

Dat neck!


I nominated this for GOTM, btw. Sick Build.


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## Hywel (Aug 12, 2015)

dankarghh said:


> Congrats man. Jealous of that thing.



As am I of your burl/burst build, looks sick 



Spicypickles said:


> I nominated this for GOTM, btw. Sick Build.



Thanks! I'm honoured.


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## pettymusic (Aug 12, 2015)

Absolutely Beautiful, Hywel!! 

Love it!


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## dankarghh (Aug 12, 2015)

Ps while tuner shopping recently I discovered vansons are just jin-ho tuners, which are also branded as wilkinson on ebay. You can get them much cheaper not buying them as vansons!


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## Solodini (Aug 13, 2015)

Hot! Sorry if you explained this elsewhere but why such small neck bolts/no washers? Wouldn't it be better to distribute the pressure further?


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## Hywel (Aug 13, 2015)

Solodini said:


> Hot! Sorry if you explained this elsewhere but why such small neck bolts/no washers? Wouldn't it be better to distribute the pressure further?



Thanks!

It's partly an aesthetic thing and partly because the larger 14/15mm ferrules would mean I'd have to change the layout of the screws quite a bit so they wouldn't stick out of the edge of the heel.

The neck pocket is very tight so the screws don't have to work hard to secure the neck in place. There are washers glued in under the screws to protect the wood and the screws themselves are flanged to give a bit of extra width (about 9mm I think). If they end up chewing through the wood I can always re-drill for the larger ferrules. 

I'm still looking for someone who makes the same M4x40mm flanged screws in black though. They don't seem to exist. I might have to investigate steel blackening.


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## Serratus (Aug 14, 2015)

Very very nice!!


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