# Walnut tone charachteristics



## mustache79 (Apr 7, 2012)

I've decided to start saving for a Custom Carvin DC800. The specs I have picked out so far are pretty basic and cost efficient. The only thing I'm not set on yet is the wood for the body. I'm a fan of Mahogany bodied guitars. How would walnut sound compared to mahogany?


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## Cancer (Apr 7, 2012)

I'm curious to know this as well. For the same reason no less.


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## Necris (Apr 7, 2012)

According to Warmoth it has a much brighter tone than Mahogany, it's also heavier in weight.


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## MF_Kitten (Apr 7, 2012)

Depends on breed and cut. Find out which walnut type the manufacturer you're looking at uses, and then do some research from there.

The most common reports coming from walnut is that it's got lots of high mids, but i don't know which breed that would be unfortunately.


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## guitarneeraj (Apr 7, 2012)

If you're a fan of Mahogany bodies, why don't you get a Mahogany body with a claro Walnut top ? That would make the guitar sound very balanced, but that's just IMHO.


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## mustache79 (Apr 7, 2012)

guitarneeraj said:


> If you're a fan of Mahogany bodies, why don't you get a Mahogany body with a claro Walnut top ? That would make the guitar sound very balanced, but that's just IMHO.


Sounds like a good idea. I'm trying to keep the cost of the guitar as low a possible and still get the specs I need. Right now it's looking like $1,250ish. This is why I haven't settled on a body wood yet. From carvin adding a top would cost another $100-$200.


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## Zado (Apr 7, 2012)




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## guitarneeraj (Apr 7, 2012)

mustache79 said:


> Sounds like a good idea. I'm trying to keep the cost of the guitar as low a possible and still get the specs I need. Right now it's looking like $1,250ish. This is why I haven't settled on a body wood yet. From carvin adding a top would cost another $100-$200.



Ahh... well with Carvin you shouldn't worry about keeping costs down IMO, since it's basically spec'd out to whatever you want. A walnut top would be fine too, it's just a $100 upgrade if you don't want to spend $200 on the claro.

Oh and if you haven't played on a DC800, take my word it's THE best 8 string you'll lay your hands on for a production model. Played on it at Musikmesse couple weeks back, the neck profile just BLEW my mind, and I'm mostly an MIJ fanboy. Which is why I'd say spending that $100 extra for the figured walnut top would just be icing on the cake, if it's coming out under $1500 or so.


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## mustache79 (Apr 7, 2012)

According to that chart walnut is a bit brighter than mahogany. This has been my belief, but there is confilcting info on the web. 

Thanks all for the input. I can't wait to post a NGD D800, like so many of you I envy


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## mustache79 (Apr 7, 2012)

guitarneeraj said:


> Ahh... well with Carvin you shouldn't worry about keeping costs down IMO, since it's basically spec'd out to whatever you want. A walnut top would be fine too, it's just a $100 upgrade if you don't want to spend $200 on the claro.
> 
> Oh and if you haven't played on a DC800, take my word it's THE best 8 string you'll lay your hands on for a production model. Played on it at Musikmesse couple weeks back, the neck profile just BLEW my mind, and I'm mostly an MIJ fanboy. Which is why I'd say spending that $100 extra for the figured walnut top would just be icing on the cake, if it's coming out under $1500 or so.


 Never played a DC800 but I have played some nice Carvin guitars and IMO they are pretty much the best bang for buck guitars. I have an Agile Septor 828, and while I do like the guitar I just don't love it.. I think a Carvin would be the guitar for me.


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## Demiurge (Apr 7, 2012)

mustache79 said:


> Sounds like a good idea. I'm trying to keep the cost of the guitar as low a possible and still get the specs I need. Right now it's looking like $1,250ish. This is why I haven't settled on a body wood yet. From carvin adding a top would cost another $100-$200.



That's not that bad of an upcharge. It's a guitar built to your specs- treat yourself! Claro Walnut is beautiful!


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## thrsher (Apr 7, 2012)

I agree with those charts


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## Setnakt (Apr 8, 2012)

Wenge is brighter than maple? Swamp ash is darker than mahogany? I'm not sure how these charts are tracking the multiple ways a wood carries different frequencies, and these seem like pretty unusual claims about these woods. The woods seem arbitarily laid out anyway.

I've always heard walnut was similar to maple. It's supposed to be about as hard anyway.


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## ASoC (Apr 8, 2012)

Setnakt said:


> Wenge is brighter than maple? Swamp ash is darker than mahogany? I'm not sure how these charts are tracking the multiple ways a wood carries different frequencies, and these seem like pretty unusual claims about these woods. The woods seem arbitarily laid out anyway.
> 
> I've always heard walnut was similar to maple. It's supposed to be about as hard anyway.


 
I thought the same things when I saw these charts. I've always thought that swamp ash was a more top-end type wood. I felt the same with Alder, its supposed to be midrangey but the chart says its darker than mahogany 

I've always used warmoths tone-o-meter to see where woods lie, and this chart is pretty much backwards compared to warmoths


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## Lorcan Ward (Apr 8, 2012)

Those charts are way off IMO. My Basswood and Swamp Ash body guitars are much brighter than my mahagony ones. Its not as simple as low/mid/high.

People say walnut is a mix of Mahogany and Maple with less lows & highs.


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## vansinn (Apr 8, 2012)

Such charts can be fairly correct - or misleading.
I find some of the claims to be right; however, as the tone'o'meter doesn't include much info on _which_ species, other than basics like european maple, those claims should be checked agains other descriptions elsewhere, like on Warmoth site.


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## Fred the Shred (Apr 8, 2012)

Considering the thickness of the top of an Carvin, expect no huge tonal change from it. It is there mainly as an aesthetic complement than tonal tool.

"Walnut" is like "mahogany" - varies IMMENSELY based on what species within the common denomination is, so take charts with a grain of salt. Personally, I really dig a few species of walnut (within the denser side of the range), as they have a pronounced (varying according to the exact species) upped mid-range snap without sounding honky, and tend not to sacrifice depth for it. It will, of course, depend on whatever else you have on the guitar.

Also take into consideration these are neck-thru guitars, in which it is not the "core" you're using these woods on. That will also impact how much of an effect the woods used have on the tone.


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## Purelojik (Apr 11, 2012)

i dont know honestly the characteristics are so damn general lol. the sapele i used in my build is not as dark as my mahogany les paul and is considerably brighter. 

the chart does seem a bit wonky but i guess in super general terms is alright.

ebony is one of the brightest fretboard woods i've used. the tap tone is considerably brighter in both macassar and gaboon. 

its always interesting to have these discussions cause everyone ends up having different thoughts. at the end of the day we just pray that the wood we chose wasnt a dud.


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