# Pros and cons of 6 string vs 5 string



## Zeetwig

Hey bass players 

(Apologies for the wall of text)

I plan on buying another bass within a year, and I have been looking at Warwicks and Ibanezes a lot. I am still not sure, but I think that the Ibbys will win this one. They just simply fit me and my music better, so unless I find a really nice used german warwick I'll go Ibanez

Anyways  My question is: I had up until yesterday planned on buying a 5 string, but yesterday something struck me. Why not get a 6 string? I checked what models that also come as 6 stringers, and the prices. Since the price difference between a 5 string and a 6 string is quite small I though why not 

Although, I am a little unsure of the pros and cons of 6 strings vs 5 strings. I am going to try a 6 before buying anything, but in the meantime I can ask you wat you think 

A little info about me and playing bass (to get a better picture of the situation and to get more background facts): I am totally comfortable with 5 strings, and the conversion from 4 string to 5 string was as close to seamless as it could be. (Conversion between 6 and 7 string guitars are no problem either, and 8 string guitars are also "playable" without too much of a hassle.) I play both finger-style and with a pick and both work very well. Three-finger playing works ok at slower BPMs, but I prefer using two fingers and then using a pick if I need to play faster than two fingers allow. Slapping is not my main playing technique, but I can do some basic slaps and pops. Basic chording and octave playing works ok, although I am mainly a "single-note-player" and not a "chord-strummer" 

The basses I am currently looking at is these:

Basses - SR605 | Ibanez guitars
Basses - SR505 | Ibanez guitars
Basses - BTB675 | Ibanez guitars

or maybe if I can stretch

Basses - SR1205 | Ibanez guitars

There are 6 string versions of them all except for the SR605, and the difference between the SR605 and SR505 is just the body wood and the bridge (Ash - mahogany, and the bridge is almost the same, just a tad different)


So... pros and cons of 6 string versus just buying a good ole 5 string?


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## TemjinStrife

Width of the would be my primary concern. Make sure the instrument is comfortable for you to play.

Also, it depends how high you need the bass to go in your music. While I can get by on a 4 no problem, 5s and 6s are really nice to reduce the amount of shifting you have to do.


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## davisjom

Zeetwig said:


> Hey bass players
> 
> (Apologies for the wall of text)
> 
> I plan on buying another bass within a year, and I have been looking at Warwicks and Ibanezes a lot. I am still not sure, but I think that the Ibbys will win this one. They just simply fit me and my music better, so unless I find a really nice used german warwick I'll go Ibanez
> 
> Anyways  My question is: I had up until yesterday planned on buying a 5 string, but yesterday something struck me. Why not get a 6 string? I checked what models that also come as 6 stringers, and the prices. Since the price difference between a 5 string and a 6 string is quite small I though why not
> 
> Although, I am a little unsure of the pros and cons of 6 strings vs 5 strings. I am going to try a 6 before buying anything, but in the meantime I can ask you wat you think
> 
> A little info about me and playing bass (to get a better picture of the situation and to get more background facts): I am totally comfortable with 5 strings, and the conversion from 4 string to 5 string was as close to seamless as it could be. (Conversion between 6 and 7 string guitars are no problem either, and 8 string guitars are also "playable" without too much of a hassle.) I play both finger-style and with a pick and both work very well. Three-finger playing works ok at slower BPMs, but I prefer using two fingers and then using a pick if I need to play faster than two fingers allow. Slapping is not my main playing technique, but I can do some basic slaps and pops. Basic chording and octave playing works ok, although I am mainly a "single-note-player" and not a "chord-strummer"
> 
> The basses I am currently looking at is these:
> 
> Basses - SR605 | Ibanez guitars
> Basses - SR505 | Ibanez guitars
> Basses - BTB675 | Ibanez guitars
> 
> or maybe if I can stretch
> 
> Basses - SR1205 | Ibanez guitars
> 
> There are 6 string versions of them all except for the SR605, and the difference between the SR605 and SR505 is just the body wood and the bridge (Ash - mahogany, and the bridge is almost the same, just a tad different)
> 
> 
> So... pros and cons of 6 string versus just buying a good ole 5 string?



only real con between a 5 and 6 is that a six will have a wider fretboard and will be a bit heavier.

The only real pro of a 6 is the extra range with the high C, and it also allows for a wider variety of tunings.

I heard about someone dropping the high C, moving the strings up a spot and adding an extra low while keeping the normal 5 string tuning.

So its all really about what you find comfortable to play and the amount of money you have to spend.

I would personally go with the BTB's. by far my favorite Ibanez basses.


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## Zeetwig

TemjinStrife said:


> Width of the would be my primary concern. Make sure the instrument is comfortable for you to play.
> 
> Also, it depends how high you need the bass to go in your music. While I can get by on a 4 no problem, 5s and 6s are really nice to reduce the amount of shifting you have to do.



I assume you meant "width of the _fretboard_". Yeah I figured that was one of the major ones. I'll try a 6 string once I get the chance, and they we'll see.

I like to not be limited range-wise when I play, and although I spend most of the time on the lower 3 strings the upper ones get quite some use too. It's the idea that I don't have to move up and down the neck that appeal to me the most. Having a couple of octaves on the same 5-fret "chunk" of the fretboard sounds really good to me.  



davisjom said:


> only real con between a 5 and 6 is that a six will have a wider fretboard and will be a bit heavier.
> 
> The only real pro of a 6 is the extra range with the high C, and it also allows for a wider variety of tunings.
> 
> I heard about someone dropping the high C, moving the strings up a spot and adding an extra low while keeping the normal 5 string tuning.
> 
> So its all really about what you find comfortable to play and the amount of money you have to spend.
> 
> I would personally go with the BTB's. by far my favorite Ibanez basses.



The money for the extra string is no problem  And weight is not a problem either.

Would I need special strings if I were to use the C string as the G string and then tune the entire bass one forth lower than usual? With special I mean strings that don't come in sets, and that need to be ordered instead of bought in a local store?


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## Necris

I've noticed that Ibanez basses overall have tighter string spacing than most other brands so moving from a Ibanez 5 to a 6 of another brand would take some getting used to, even moving to a 5 from another brand as I did would be noticeably different. 

The main pro of owning a 6 is having that extra range and reducing the need to shift positions when you play, it's very useful for chordal stuff. 

Also keep in mind the SR series are 34" scale while the BTBs are 35", getting used to a wider neck and a longer scale length won't be too terribly difficult but your hands may fatigue faster for the first week or so that you have it.

Tuning with a low F# (not G) does require special strings and sometimes the nut also needs to be filed to accommodate the larger string, I'd personally recommend buying a set of Circle K strings if you go that route. In my opinion a high C is much more useful, but different things work for different players.


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## davisjom

Zeetwig said:


> I assume you meant "width of the _fretboard_". Yeah I figured that was one of the major ones. I'll try a 6 string once I get the chance, and they we'll see.
> 
> I like to not be limited range-wise when I play, and although I spend most of the time on the lower 3 strings the upper ones get quite some use too. It's the idea that I don't have to move up and down the neck that appeal to me the most. Having a couple of octaves on the same 5-fret "chunk" of the fretboard sounds really good to me.
> 
> 
> 
> The money for the extra string is no problem  And weight is not a problem either.
> 
> Would I need special strings if I were to use the C string as the G string and then tune the entire bass one forth lower than usual? With special I mean strings that don't come in sets, and that need to be ordered instead of bought in a local store?



You would most likely need heavier gauge strings, D'addario and Circle K strings sell a wide variety of string sizes.
If i remember right the guy who ditched the C tuned (low-high) E-A-E-A-D-G since he was playing with people who used 8 string guitars.


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## Zeetwig

Necris said:


> I've noticed that Ibanez basses overall have tighter string spacing than most other brands so moving from a Ibanez 5 to a 6 of another brand would take some getting used to, even moving to a 5 from another brand as I did would be noticeably different.



That's one of the reasons I like them  Not so good for slapping but for pick and fingers: great  and you can get used to the narrow spacing with slap too

And you have a very good point there  I'll have to take that into account when I do the buying! Thanks for giving me the heads up



Necris said:


> Also keep in mind the SR series are 34" scale while the BTBs are 35", getting used to a wider neck and a longer scale length won't be too terribly difficult but your hands may fatigue faster for the first week or so that you have it.



Actually, the 35" might be better than the 34". I've forgot to mention it but I am planning on tuning the bass down to G (G,C,F,A#,D# and then maybe a G# if it's a 6) to match the tuning of some of my guitars. So a 35" is probably better 



Necris said:


> Tuning with a low F# (not G) does require special strings and sometimes the nut also needs to be filed to accommodate the larger string, I'd personally recommend buying a set of Circle K strings if you go that route. In my opinion a high C is much more useful, but different things work for different players.



Then I'll need special strings, since I'm going to tune down to G. Where is circle K located? Are they UK/europe or US-based?




davisjom said:


> You would most likely need heavier gauge strings, D'addario and Circle K strings sell a wide variety of string sizes.
> If i remember right the guy who ditched the C tuned (low-high) E-A-E-A-D-G since he was playing with people who used 8 string guitars.



Do you think .145 or .135 works for the low G string? Cause that's the thickest D'addario I can find...


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## Necris

Circle K are US based. Rotosound also make sets for low F# (or G ) called "Drop Zone +" if you're looking for something UK/Europe based but I'm not sure if they offer them in anything above a 4 string set. The low F# string they offer is a .175.

I had a .145 gauge low F# on an 8 string bass and to be honest it was just completely inadequate tension wise.


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## davisjom

.135 is good for your B string.
.145 should be ok for a low G.

Keep in mind Circle K. They have strings all the way up to a .254


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## Zeetwig

Necris said:


> Circle K are US based. Rotosound also make sets for low F# (or G ) called "Drop Zone +" if you're looking for something UK/Europe based but I'm not sure if they offer them in anything above a 4 string set. The low F# string they offer is a .175.
> 
> I had a .145 gauge low F# on an 8 string bass and to be honest it was just completely inadequate tension wise.



Hmm... I can't find any 5 or 6 string sets either. But I can just buy the drop zone and then buy a normal set with appropriate gauges and just use the two highest strings 

 Well if .145 is too thin for F# will .175 work for G? Or do I need more?



davisjom said:


> .135 is good for your B string.
> .145 should be ok for a low G.
> 
> Keep in mind Circle K. They have strings all the way up to a .254



Wait a second... Conflicting info  one says .145 is enough, another says it's inadequate :S

.254 !?! Jeeez... why not just use a piece of industrial wire instead?


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## Semichastny

Keep in mind with an extra string you'll need to be able to mute effectively as well or you'll get a LOT of noise and sympathetic vibration. Also I'd realistically consider whether or not you would actually get that much out of having an extra string, having 6 strings allows for more developed tapping, chording, soloing, etc but since you'll be tuning down to G these techniques won't benefit as much. Also maybe check out Circle K's Tension chart and match your string set to the Tension of your current basses E string, a G .145 IMO would be usable but kind of crappy, getting a thicker string would make it more playable, better sounding, and allow you to use the G outside a purely metal context.


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## ZEBOV

Zeetwig said:


> Hmm... I can't find any 5 or 6 string sets either. But I can just buy the drop zone and then buy a normal set with appropriate gauges and just use the two highest strings
> 
> Well if .145 is too thin for F# will .175 work for G? Or do I need more?
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a second... Conflicting info  one says .145 is enough, another says it's inadequate :S
> 
> .254 !?! Jeeez... why not just use a piece of industrial wire instead?



It could be a difference between brands. On my 34" scale bass, .174 in a balanced set of Circle K's is good enough for low F# but I would prefer it to be thicker. I liked the tension much more when tuned to G though. If Elixir made a .145, I think it would be good enough for low G.

My 35.25" scale Carvin will be shipped to me today. After the 10 day trial, I'll put a balanced set of Circle K .174's on it.


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## davisjom

Well from talking to people who play in a F#-G# they all say that a .145 works good for them. so it also may be personal preference. I prefer my strings with a bit more tension, thats why im going to get a .145 for my B string. And some dont want as much tension. Its really up to you as a player


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## Zeetwig

Semichastny said:


> Keep in mind with an extra string you'll need to be able to mute effectively as well or you'll get a LOT of noise and sympathetic vibration. Also I'd realistically consider whether or not you would actually get that much out of having an extra string, having 6 strings allows for more developed tapping, chording, soloing, etc but since you'll be tuning down to G these techniques won't benefit as much. Also maybe check out Circle K's Tension chart and match your string set to the Tension of your current basses E string, a G .145 IMO would be usable but kind of crappy, getting a thicker string would make it more playable, better sounding, and allow you to use the G outside a purely metal context.



I think I can keep my muting up to par  Also I like to challenge myself a little 

I don't see why soloing, chording, tapping etc won't benefit from the 6th string if it's tuned to G :S Yes I won't get as high, but I will still have the same range and all the notes will be in the sam place, just 4 semitones lower

I did not quite follow what you said about matching string tension with my E string... Do you mean that I should check what tension I have on my E string and then aim for a similar tension on the G string? How to I do that? I didn't understand the charts fully...

I'd prefer a string with at least some tension, as I want a ringing string, not a clattering string. Clattering can be achieved anyway by just digging into the strings more 



ZEBOV said:


> It could be a difference between brands. On my 34" scale bass, .174 in a balanced set of Circle K's is good enough for low F# but I would prefer it to be thicker. I liked the tension much more when tuned to G though. If Elixir made a .145, I think it would be good enough for low G.
> 
> My 35.25" scale Carvin will be shipped to me today. After the 10 day trial, I'll put a balanced set of Circle K .174's on it.



How to brand make a difference? .145 is always going to be .145 :S Is it the alloys, winding, etc that make the difference?

So: Circle K -> .174 (or thicker)
Elixir -> .145 (or thicker)

Are these going to be very floppy or do they have normal tension?



davisjom said:


> Well from talking to people who play in a F#-G# they all say that a .145 works good for them. so it also may be personal preference. I prefer my strings with a bit more tension, thats why im going to get a .145 for my B string. And some dont want as much tension. Its really up to you as a player



I too prefer some tension. Floppy, wobbly rubberbands works if you want a lot of clatter and bite in a metal song, but since I can get that by just digging into the strings more, or using a pick or my thumb I'd prefer tension, or at least moderate tension



Btw sorry for asking such a noob question, but is .125 or .135 standard for the B string on a 5 string? I can't remember what gauges I have on my standard-tuned 5 string, and I think I might have thrown the string package away for some reason... :S


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## davisjom

then you will want to go with a .160 or heavier.

.125 is considered a light string for a B
.135 can be considered a med heavy/heavy string.
there isnt really a "standard" string gauge.

I would get either a .135 or a .145 for your B.


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## Semichastny

Zeetwig said:


> I think I can keep my muting up to par  Also I like to challenge myself a little
> 
> I don't see why soloing, chording, tapping etc won't benefit from the 6th string if it's tuned to G :S Yes I won't get as high, but I will still have the same range and all the notes will be in the sam place, just 4 semitones lower
> 
> I did not quite follow what you said about matching string tension with my E string... Do you mean that I should check what tension I have on my E string and then aim for a similar tension on the G string? How to I do that? I didn't understand the charts fully...
> 
> I'd prefer a string with at least some tension, as I want a ringing string, not a clattering string. Clattering can be achieved anyway by just digging into the strings more
> 
> 
> 
> How to brand make a difference? .145 is always going to be .145 :S Is it the alloys, winding, etc that make the difference?
> 
> So: Circle K -> .174 (or thicker)
> Elixir -> .145 (or thicker)
> 
> Are these going to be very floppy or do they have normal tension?
> 
> 
> 
> I too prefer some tension. Floppy, wobbly rubberbands works if you want a lot of clatter and bite in a metal song, but since I can get that by just digging into the strings more, or using a pick or my thumb I'd prefer tension, or at least moderate tension
> 
> 
> 
> Btw sorry for asking such a noob question, but is .125 or .135 standard for the B string on a 5 string? I can't remember what gauges I have on my standard-tuned 5 string, and I think I might have thrown the string package away for some reason... :S



1. Just Clarifying I didn't say tuning a 6 down to G wouldn't benefit those techniques I said the techniques "won't benefit as much". You can still chord but they will be Bassier and possibly muddy which in some cases will work and in others (maybe such as live) they can be undefined which kind of takes away from the chording imo. You can still tap but without the high end the range of sounds you will get will be a little more limited as you will have more low end which can work with your style no doubt but if you have guitarists or others to compete with, the low end might not be as audible during the tapping. Soloing would not befienet as much if you are in a band with low-tuned guitarists, as your upper register would be similar to a 4-string bass and you would be competing for similar sonic territory, but if it works with your style and whatever setting you use it in then it could work well.

2. Yes that is what I meant for tension. All you really need to know about tension for your tone is that higher tension gives tighter strings and more natural low end which works well with bass, and lighter tension gives looser strings which aren't as bassy but are easier to tap with but get undefined, generic, and muddy/cloudy if you go too loose which doesn't work well for low end in a full band situation. I recommend balanced string sets, if you have a .105 E that's just over 40 pounds of tension, so a balanced string set would be something around (low to high) B.140, E.105, A.080, D.060, G .045 . A balanced string set will have better tone and play-ability because the strings will have similar tension and feel. So if you like the how the your E plays just look up a tension chart and get strings for your tuning that have a similar tension to it, trust me you'll love it. Circle K string's are great but don't work with string-thru basses. If you follow this advice you would get a string set from Circle K with .174, .130, .098, .073, .055, .039 string for G standard that would be much better then a looser set, it would sound natural and depending on your experience with low end, having strings big enough to give a natural sound with a tuning that low could redefine how you look at low end.

3. All those factors affect string tension, but others here could explain that to you better then I could. The example I can give is that Circle K strings have slightly more tension then an average set but feel looser because they vibrate with more freedom then the other strings do. Getting .174 balanced set shouldn't feel loose at all, but even if it does just go up a size because you would probably hate a .145 for G because it would still be WAY looser.

A good comparison: a CK .174 G string would give you 39.3 pounds of tension = .105 E string from Daddario. but a CK .145 G string would give you 26 pounds of tension = .085 E from Daddario. So if you like the .105 string go for a .174 set. 

Using .145 for G is like using .085 for E, doesn't that sound ridiculous? I think it is, and that is why you will be VERY hard pressed to find someone with a great tone who tunes low, because the average bassist (and guitarist) use crazy loose strings and don't research what they have to get their guitars to sound good!

If the above is confusing, the bigger the string and longer the scale the tighter it will be and I think that is what you want so go BIG.

http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf
http://circlekstrings.com/CKSIMAGES/CircleKtensionChart.pdf


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## Zeetwig

davisjom said:


> then you will want to go with a .160 or heavier.
> 
> .125 is considered a light string for a B
> .135 can be considered a med heavy/heavy string.
> there isnt really a "standard" string gauge.
> 
> I would get either a .135 or a .145 for your B.



Ok  I don't know what gauges I have on my B standard bass atm, but I guess it's around .135/.145


@ semichastny

Wow thanks for the thorough answer! ^^

1. Ok I think I misunderstood what you meant. What you say is true, very true, but I think it'll work out somehow  I am tuning down mainly to match my guitar tunings, not because I want to play chords lower or something like that. As I said I do not play a lot of chords, and with a little EQ-magic I'm sure the bass will be heard over the guitar, even when tapping or soloing. But yes what you say is true, and if I wanted to have a 6 string just for tapping, soloing and chording, not matching guitar tunings, then I would not tune it down 

2. Ok I think I understand more now then before. I'll see if I can understand the charts tomorrow when I am more sharp 
However I can ask right away: how close should the tension of each string be to the other strings? Is a variation of 3 pounds a lot or just normal?

I haven't really given string tension or balanced sets of strings much though... so thanks for explaining it to me! 

I just saw that CircleK sell complete balanced sets of strings with the gauges you suggested (.174, .130, .098, .073, .055, .039). Perfect!  Thanks for the help! ^^

3.Yeah loose strings are not my cup of tea really... So I'll take your advice and think BIG 

I did not quite follow you on this part:

_Using .145 for G is like using .085 for E, doesn't that sound ridiculous? I think it is, and that is why you will be VERY hard pressed to find someone with a great tone who tunes low, because the average bassist (and guitarist) use crazy loose strings and don't research what they have to get their guitars to sound good!_

Otherwise everything else was more or less crystal clear  Or it will be once I get down understanding the charts


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## ZEBOV

Zeetwig said:


> How to brand make a difference? .145 is always going to be .145 :S Is it the alloys, winding, etc that make the difference?
> 
> So: Circle K -> .174 (or thicker)
> Elixir -> .145 (or thicker)
> 
> Are these going to be very floppy or do they have normal tension?



Unfortunately, Elixir doesn't make a .145 guage. Their largest string is .130.


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## Semichastny

Zeetwig said:


> _Using .145 for G is like using .085 for E, doesn't that sound ridiculous? I think it is, and that is why you will be VERY hard pressed to find someone with a great tone who tunes low, because the average bassist (and guitarist) use crazy loose strings and don't research what they have to get their guitars to sound good!_
> 
> Otherwise everything else was more or less crystal clear  Or it will be once I get down understanding the charts



Ok so summarize. Tension is simply looked at as how tight or loose a string is. Some factors go into tension

The simplest and most controllable are:
1. Longer Scale = More Tension
2. Bigger String = More Tension
3. Higher Note = More Tension
and vice versa

what i meant by the comment you didn't understand is that thinner strings for a given note will be looser, so next time you change your strings tune your A string down to a E like your normal 4th string is and see how loose and crappy it sounds. The same would apply for .145 for G, it's suited best for B and would sound loose & crappy IMO at G. It can be a little confusing because most companies especially the big ones have HORRIBLE string sets for low tuning, a .125 is a common B string but in my opinion its best suited for C#, at B its really loose and muddy. If your willing to take the learning curve for playing bigger strings it will honestly give a huge payoff, after hearing a string with adequate tension for a low tuning you will wish you could go back in time and give all your favorite bands that string because it will sound so much better then any low-tuned bass string you've heard (and i'm not joking)!


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## Zeetwig

Semichastny said:


> what i meant by the comment you didn't understand is that thinner strings for a given note will be looser, so next time you change your strings tune your A string down to a E like your normal 4th string is and see how loose and crappy it sounds. The same would apply for .145 for G, it's suited best for B and would sound loose & crappy IMO at G. It can be a little confusing because most companies especially the big ones have HORRIBLE string sets for low tuning, a .125 is a common B string but in my opinion its best suited for C#, at B its really loose and muddy. If your willing to take the learning curve for playing bigger strings it will honestly give a huge payoff, after hearing a string with adequate tension for a low tuning you will wish you could go back in time and give all your favorite bands that string because it will sound so much better then any low-tuned bass string you've heard (and i'm not joking)!



Ok now I understand 

I have looked at the charts, and CircleK really do have balanced sets! You just decide for a tension and then track that tension over the charts on the notes you are planning on having the strings tuned to. The .175 to .039 set looks good, with about 40 pounds of tension on average. It's just the second highest string (the D# string when tuning to G) that breaks the pattern with a .055 when it should be .053 (the former is 2 pounds heavier than the .053, which is around 40 pounds... well I guess they have their reasons to use .055 instead of the .053)

Btw is around 40 pounds good tension for a string? It won't be too much on the higher strings and to little on the lower?

Unfortunately, as CircleK is US-based I'll have you stomp up quite some cash if I want to ship them over to Sweden... :S I've looked at D'addario charts, but they are much less consistent and the string tension is all over the place :S If I am going with D'addario then I'd have to make up my own custom sets and order singles... :S Which in the end would cost about the same as a CircleK set :S

Do you know of any other brands that are a little more... local to Europe/northern Europe?


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## ixlramp

Zeetwig said:


> but yesterday something struck me. Why not get a 6 string?


Your intuition struck you. If you are intuitively drawn to it then buy a 6, your subconcious is seeing the potential in a 6 so follow it  A 6 contains a 5 ... but a 5 doesn't contain a 6.
I bought a BTB676 it is an amazing instrument for the price, ergonomic design and neck-through. The 35" will significantly help with your low tuning.


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## ixlramp

Semichastny said:


> 2. Yes that is what I meant for tension. All you really need to know about tension for your tone is that higher tension gives tighter strings and more natural low end which works well with bass, and lighter tension gives looser strings which aren't as bassy but are easier to tap with but get undefined, generic, and muddy/cloudy if you go too loose which doesn't work well for low end in a full band situation. I recommend balanced string sets, if you have a .105 E that's just over 40 pounds of tension, so a balanced string set would be something around (low to high) B.140, E.105, A.080, D.060, G .045 . A balanced string set will have better tone and play-ability because the strings will have similar tension and feel. So if you like the how the your E plays just look up a tension chart and get strings for your tuning that have a similar tension to it, trust me you'll love it. Circle K string's are great but don't work with string-thru basses. If you follow this advice you would get a string set from Circle K with .174, .130, .098, .073, .055, .039 string for G standard that would be much better then a looser set, it would sound natural and depending on your experience with low end, having strings big enough to give a natural sound with a tuning that low could redefine how you look at low end.
> 
> 3. All those factors affect string tension, but others here could explain that to you better then I could. The example I can give is that Circle K strings have slightly more tension then an average set but feel looser because they vibrate with more freedom then the other strings do. Getting .174 balanced set shouldn't feel loose at all, but even if it does just go up a size because you would probably hate a .145 for G because it would still be WAY looser.
> 
> A good comparison: a CK .174 G string would give you 39.3 pounds of tension = .105 E string from Daddario. but a CK .145 G string would give you 26 pounds of tension = .085 E from Daddario. So if you like the .105 string go for a .174 set.
> 
> Using .145 for G is like using .085 for E, doesn't that sound ridiculous? I think it is, and that is why you will be VERY hard pressed to find someone with a great tone who tunes low, because the average bassist (and guitarist) use crazy loose strings and don't research what they have to get their guitars to sound good!
> 
> If the above is confusing, the bigger the string and longer the scale the tighter it will be and I think that is what you want so go BIG.
> 
> http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf
> http://circlekstrings.com/CKSIMAGES/CircleKtensionChart.pdf


^ Yes ... this.


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## ixlramp

40 pounds is a medium tension, tight enough for excellent tone and no flop on the lowest strings. Loose enough for playability on the higher strings. Same tension as a 105 E.


Zeetwig said:


> Do you know of any other brands that are a little more... local to Europe/northern Europe?


Pyramid strings do .160 and .170, sold from here: SchneiderMusik.de
They sell singles down to a wound .017 so you can build a custom set with gauges close to the Circle K gauges.
I recommend the .170 for your low G, a .160 will be loose. 
EDIT
For a medium tension balanced set from Pyramid i recommend .170 .130 .095 .070 .050 .035 (using the daddario tension chart).


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## All_¥our_Bass

Pros:
More notes, more range of timbre/tone, less shifting, chordal playing is more practical, pianistic two-hand-tapping is more practical

Cons:
Wider neck, requires better muting technique, thinner string spacing (not necessarily bad but many 4/5 stringer have wider spacing and it might take some getting used to), string sets are more expensive. If your going the low F/F#/etc. route you may start getting more picky about your amp/gear, those low, low notes might not come through as well as you'd like.

Personally I'd go with a six, since I like having more range/options.


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## Zeetwig

ixlramp said:


> Your intuition struck you. If you are intuitively drawn to it then buy a 6, your subconcious is seeing the potential in a 6 so follow it  A 6 contains a 5 ... but a 5 doesn't contain a 6.
> I bought a BTB676 it is an amazing instrument for the price, ergonomic design and neck-through. The 35" will significantly help with your low tuning.



Haha well ok thanks for illuminating me of my own thoughts and feelings  (not being sarcastic  ) And yes that "a 6 contains a 5 but a 5 does not contain a 6"-part is very very true! It's sort of the PeteyG philosophy 

And since you own a BTB676, have you compared it to lets say some Ibanez SR basses, or warwicks (german or rockbass)? How does it hold up against other brands? I like the pickups and EQ very much in my SR. Is the BTB equal or even better? How's the string spacing? And finally: does the wider neck of the 6 string bother you? Is it too wide?



ixlramp said:


> 40 pounds is a medium tension, tight enough for excellent tone and no flop on the lowest strings. Loose enough for playability on the higher strings. Same tension as a 105 E.
> 
> Pyramid strings do .160 and .170, sold from here: SchneiderMusik.de
> They sell singles down to a wound .017 so you can build a custom set with gauges close to the Circle K gauges.
> I recommend the .170 for your low G, a .160 will be loose. For a 40 pounds tension balanced set i recommend .170 .135 .100 .075 .055 .040 (using the daddario tension chart).



So I should aim for around 40 pounds then, if I want tension (especially on the lower strings) but still don't want super-tight strings that just work against me?

Thanks for the link  I visited the Pyramid strings homepage earlier today, but it was all fudged up and confusing :S

Those gauges are about the same as the CircleK ones... There's not some magical difference between D'addario, Pyramid strings and CircleK strings then? That a .175 from CircleK is like a .155 from Brand X or something like that. Cause that's the view I got from previous posts... :S



All_¥our_Bass;2946045 said:


> Pros:
> More notes, more range of timbre/tone, less shifting, chordal playing is more practical, pianistic two-hand-tapping is more practical
> 
> Cons:
> Wider neck, requires better muting technique, thinner string spacing (not necessarily bad but many 4/5 stringer have wider spacing and it might take some getting used to), string sets are more expensive. If your going the low F/F#/etc. route you may start getting more picky about your amp/gear, those low, low notes might not come through as well as you'd like.
> 
> Personally I'd go with a six, since I like having more range/options.



String spacing is not a big problem to me  I don't slap a lot and I almost prefer the narrower spacing. My SR has a little more narrow spacing and it suits me perfect! 

More expensive strings, yes thats a good point. Bass strings don't need changing as often as guitar strings though (IMO), so I think it'll still be the same as for guitar strings in the end 

About the amp and speakers though... Hadn't though of that to be honest... :S What would you recommend, in terms of amp and speaker?


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## Zeetwig

Something else just struck me  (I must be a very easy target since I'm struck by things all the time  ) As you know, I am planning on tuning the new bass down to G. If I go 6 string then the high string will be a G# instead of a C, and chording, tapping and soloing won't benefit from this. It would be better to keep the bass in standard BEADGC tuning. But then I won't be able to match my guitar tunings... However, I already have another bass, tuned BEADG. Why not tune this one to GCFA#D# instead, and keep the 6 string in BEADGC? Yes I loose some high-range notes when playing on the G-tuned bass, but I think having the 5 tuned to G and the 6 tuned to B is better than a 5 tuned to B and a 6 tuned to G

Or what do you think? The 5 I have is a SR305, so it's not a high-end instrument, but it's definitely not a budget one either! Do you think that it will cope with lower tunings (with the right string gauges of course) just as good as the (more-)high-end I will buy, or should I use the new one for the G tuning since it will handle the low tuning better?

(Note that if I do buy a 5 and not a 6 then this won't matter, so this is a theoretical question if I were to buy a 6 and not a 5 string)


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## ixlramp

Zeetwig said:


> does the wider neck of the 6 string bother you? Is it too wide?
> 
> Those gauges are about the same as the CircleK ones... There's not some magical difference between D'addario, Pyramid strings and CircleK strings then? That a .175 from CircleK is like a .155 from Brand X or something like that. Cause that's the view I got from previous posts... :S


I have big hands the neck doesn't bother me i wish it were wider 

Tension at pitch is determined by the mass per one inch ('unit weight') of a string, not gauge. Since string structure and materials vary between brands there is a little variation in tension between different brands of the same gauge, up to roughly 5% it seems if you compare the 'unit weights' of daddario and CK ...
... see these extremely useful PDFs: http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf
http://circlekstrings.com/CKSIMAGES/CircleKtensionChart.pdf
So there may be a small variation but you can still use these tension charts to approximate other brands and get very close to a perfect set. Some of the differences cancel out when balancing a set.



Zeetwig said:


> Or what do you think? The 5 I have is a SR305, so it's not a high-end instrument, but it's definitely not a budget one either! Do you think that it will cope with lower tunings (with the right string gauges of course) just as good as the (more-)high-end I will buy, or should I use the new one for the G tuning since it will handle the low tuning better?


SRs are lightweight, bolt-on and 34" scale. To get the best possible low G use a 35" scale bass and/or a 6 string, a 6 string neck is wider, stronger and stiffer and improves the tone, also the instrument mass is higher. BTBs are known to be tone monsters ideal for very low tunings due to their higher mass and scale, and through neck.
So, since it is difficult to get good tone with very low tunings, i would suggest using the new bass for G tuning. 6 strings, 35" scale and through neck will all help. But ... it's up to you


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## Zeetwig

ixlramp said:


> I have big hands the neck doesn't bother me i wish it were wider



Haha ok since I'm like 6 foot 2 I think hand size is a lesser problem for me too  But I'll try a few just to be sure 



ixlramp said:


> Tension at pitch is determined by the mass per one inch ('unit weight') of a string, not gauge. Since string structure and materials vary between brands there is a little variation in tension between different brands of the same gauge, up to roughly 5% it seems if you compare the 'unit weights' of daddario and CK ...
> ... see these extremely useful PDFs: http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf
> http://circlekstrings.com/CKSIMAGES/CircleKtensionChart.pdf
> So there may be a small variation but you can still use these tension charts to approximate other brands and get very close to a perfect set. Some of the differences cancel out when balancing a set.



Ok that's good to know! The CircleK chart is really detailed, so it's good to know that I can use that one on all brands, with minor differences 

Btw how close to a specific tension must the string be to still have the benefits of a "balanced" set? If we say that I am for 40 pounds of tension. Is 38-42 ok, 35-45 sort of ok and 30-50 bad? Or what are the margins?



ixlramp said:


> SRs are lightweight, bolt-on and 34" scale. To get the best possible low G use a 35" scale bass and/or a 6 string, a 6 string neck is wider, stronger and stiffer and improves the tone, also the instrument mass is higher. BTBs are known to be tone monsters ideal for very low tunings due to their higher mass and scale, and through neck.
> So, since it is difficult to get good tone with very low tunings, i would suggest using the new bass for G tuning. 6 strings, 35" scale and through neck will all help. But ... it's up to you



Dang I forgot that the SR is 34"  And then the other benefits of a 6 over a 5... Oh well then I'll just stick with my original idea.


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## ixlramp

Zeetwig said:


> Btw how close to a specific tension must the string be to still have the benefits of a "balanced" set? If we say that I am for 40 pounds of tension. Is 38-42 ok, 35-45 sort of ok and 30-50 bad? Or what are the margins?


Yeah try to keep it 38-42, that's a barely noticeable variation of 10%. 35-45 would be a significant variation of 25%, too much i think.
If you want to stay with a 34" scale (understandable) i would suggest a through-neck SR 6 string ... if there is one


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## Semichastny

1. IMO if you are really willing to learn to play and love a 6 it's neck length won't affect you that much, it'll be a change but you will probably notice it. Don't mistake that feeling of having to stretch a little more with the bass itself being uncomfortable. I've played 24.75", 25.5", 27.0", 28.625, 34", 35" scales across my instruments and to be honest the difference is size is negligible to me after getting to know them all, stick with it if you buy it! 

2. It makes alot of sense to just tune down the 5 and keep the 6 in standard because of the techinques like you mentioned, you honestly would just be getting the same range as a normal bass if you tuned the 6 down but if you keep it in standard you will have a much more dynamic range and use out of that extra string.


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## Zeetwig

ixlramp said:


> Yeah try to keep it 38-42, that's a barely noticeable variation of 10%. 35-45 would be a significant variation of 25%, too much i think.
> If you want to stay with a 34" scale (understandable) i would suggest a through-neck SR 6 string ... if there is one



 I must be tiered... Holidays are no good for you  they make your brain all mushy  The SR's are 34" and the BTBs 35", so if I go with an SR 6 then I can tune down my old SR and keep the 6 in standard tuning

Just because you have been such a great help to me, and since you seem to know a lot more about bass guitars than me: (  ) If I go with 34" and not 35", will that affect what gauges on the strings I should use? The thicker stings on the shorter scales won't make the bass intone more poorly?



Semichastny said:


> 1. IMO if you are really willing to learn to play and love a 6 it's neck length won't affect you that much, it'll be a change but you will probably notice it. Don't mistake that feeling of having to stretch a little more with the bass itself being uncomfortable. I've played 24.75", 25.5", 27.0", 28.625, 34", 35" scales across my instruments and to be honest the difference is size is negligible to me after getting to know them all, stick with it if you buy it!



I am more than willing to learn!  And I have no problem swapping scales either. I have an 24.75" inch LP, a 24,75" DOT, 25,5" strat, 34" bass, have played 26" and 27" guitars, and scale length is not a problem  It's actually harder to move down in scales then up IMO 

The problem with a 34" is that the intonation of the bass might not be as good as if it was a 35"... But do you guys think that it matter that much? A 35" is just 1/34 more than a 34"... is the difference in intonation even audible... I can understand a 24.75" compared to a 26", but a 34" vs 35"...



Semichastny said:


> 2. It makes alot of sense to just tune down the 5 and keep the 6 in standard because of the techinques like you mentioned, you honestly would just be getting the same range as a normal bass if you tuned the 6 down but if you keep it in standard you will have a much more dynamic range and use out of that extra string.



Yeah the G tuned bass would have just one semitone more than the B tuned bass in the upper register. :S Which feels sort of wasted when a 6 is "supposed" to get higher. I think that tuning down the 5 and keeping the 6 in standard is a better alternativ, especially if I go for a 34"



Sorry everyone for being a bit confused, not thinking clearly and not being able to make up my mind about things :S
The confusion and dull thinking is my fault (or the holidays'  ), but the inability to make up my mind... that's the reason why I'm here discussing the matter with you


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## ixlramp

I just corrected my earlier post:
"For a medium tension balanced set from Pyramid i recommend .170 .130 .095 .070 .050 .035 (using the daddario tension chart)."
Circle Ks are special, super flexible and only 3 layers of wrap wire up to .190. I don't know if the Pyramids are as good, might be worth trying both.

You could always tune your current 5 string EADGC ... as your 'high bass', the higher quality bass should be your 'lower bass' because low tunings are so much more difficult to reproduce well.

35" is not necessary for a good low G ... but it helps 
With 34" you will need to use slightly larger gauges to achieve the same tension. The daddario tension guide explains all this ... i highly recommend studying that. Tension is proportional to scale length squared, so a 35" scale multiplies tension by (35/34)squared = 1.06. A 6% increase is significant. Also a longer string is inherently more flexible, clearer, more harmonic.

However if you prefer 34" then go for it ... it's totally possible to get a good low G string on 34".


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## Zeetwig

The only problem with tuning the 5 string EADGC is that then I have nothing matching my standard tuned 7. :S The 5 string, tuned BEADG(C) match both my standard E tuned 6 and standard B tuned 7, and I would ruin that if I alter that tuning. Also, I have another 6 tuned to C, and will soon have a 7 tuned to G, so I need another bass tuned GCFA#D#(G#).

Ok so it is only tension that is affected by the scale length? It's not something that a smaller scale instrument with bigger strings somehow intone less good due to the fatter strings resting on the frets differently than thinner strings? I ask cause once I tried to tune down a normal 24,75" 6 string guitar down to G, and it lost some intonation, especially at the higher frets around and above the 12th fret. But maybe this was some exception? This was an old guitar that I currently have disassembled, so perhaps it didn't cope with lower tunings as a newer one would...


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## Cameron Himself

I think a 6 string is overkill really. 5 string is where it is at!


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## ixlramp

Zeetwig said:


> a smaller scale instrument with bigger strings somehow intone less good due to the fatter strings resting on the frets differently than thinner strings? I ask cause once I tried to tune down a normal 24,75" 6 string guitar down to G, and it lost some intonation, especially at the higher frets around and above the 12th fret.


Was that G string at very low tension? That causes pitch instability and is more difficult to intonate. If is was a really fat string that also makes intonation more difficult.
Really big strings like a B and larger on a bass are naturally more difficult to intonate due to the effect of their stiffness on pitch. I can usually only intonate a bass low B up to the 12th fret.
Low tunings on a smaller scale indirectly causes more difficult intonation by forcing you towards lower tension or fatter strings.


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## Ryan-ZenGtr-

I bought my Warwick Thumb 6 from a guy who had to sell it because it gave him RSI. 

They are wrist killers so you have to maintain correct posture and technique at all times. I was playing it for a long time in metal bands and it was always a joy, but long rehearsals could be pretty painful.

All that being said I'll never sell that bass, despite selling loads of guitars and other instruments. 6 string owns! 

Less strings now feel to me like too much of a compromise, although it makes sense for slap bass.


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## ixlramp

Don't worry dude  You can still certainly get a good low G string on your current SR5, the difference may be subtle or possibly even unnoticeable. Anyway once you have 2 basses you can try a low G string on both and find out for sure. I would however recommend CK strings for the greatest chance of success


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## Zeetwig

ixlramp said:


> Was that G string at very low tension? That causes pitch instability and is more difficult to intonate. If is was a really fat string that also makes intonation more difficult.
> Really big strings like a B and larger on a bass are naturally more difficult to intonate due to the effect of their stiffness on pitch. I can usually only intonate a bass low B up to the 12th fret.
> Low tunings on a smaller scale indirectly causes more difficult intonation by forcing you towards lower tension or fatter strings.



It was a .056 on a 24,75", so yeah sting un-tension would probably be more accurate :S

Ok but if intonation above the 12th fret on a B string is... difficult, then the low G on a 34" vs 35" thing shouldn't really matter, since G is so much lower than B. So I suppose that it will be allright 



Ryan-ZenGtr- said:


> I bought my Warwick Thumb 6 from a guy who had to sell it because it gave him RSI.
> 
> They are wrist killers so you have to maintain correct posture and technique at all times. I was playing it for a long time in metal bands and it was always a joy, but long rehearsals could be pretty painful.
> 
> All that being said I'll never sell that bass, despite selling loads of guitars and other instruments. 6 string owns!
> 
> Less strings now feel to me like too much of a compromise, although it makes sense for slap bass.



First: whats RSI?

Second: as I don't play bass in a band (atm) and will probably just use the bass for playing, jamming with friends at home and recording I think that I can maintain a good posture and not play too long periods at a time. Also, I suppose sitting down causes less strain than standing up?

Third: aww thats some sexy six string!  Although the lower horn could be a tad longer. If you don't mind me asking, have you ever tried an Ibanez bass? How would you compare the warwick 6 string neck to an ibanez bass neck? (I haven't tried 4+ string warwicks unfortunately... so all info is really appreciated!  )



ixlramp said:


> Don't worry dude  You can still certainly get a good low G string on your current SR5, the difference may be subtle or possibly even unnoticeable. Anyway once you have 2 basses you can try a low G string on both and find out for sure. I would however recommend CK strings for the greatest chance of success



Ok great!  I'll definitely look into circleK. See if one of my semi-buddys at a store can order some strings for me  I've spent some time string-hunting, and strings above .135 is like more rare than penguins in the Sahara desert :S I don't really understand it, especially when you have looked at the tension charts


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## iron blast

Zeetwig said:


> It was a .056 on a 24,75", so yeah sting un-tension would probably be more accurate :S
> 
> Ok but if intonation above the 12th fret on a B string is... difficult, then the low G on a 34" vs 35" thing shouldn't really matter, since G is so much lower than B. So I suppose that it will be allright
> 
> 
> 
> First: whats RSI?
> 
> Second: as I don't play bass in a band (atm) and will probably just use the bass for playing, jamming with friends at home and recording I think that I can maintain a good posture and not play too long periods at a time. Also, I suppose sitting down causes less strain than standing up?
> 
> Third: aww thats some sexy six string!  Although the lower horn could be a tad longer. If you don't mind me asking, have you ever tried an Ibanez bass? How would you compare the warwick 6 string neck to an ibanez bass neck? (I haven't tried 4+ string warwicks unfortunately... so all info is really appreciated!  )
> 
> 
> 
> Ok great!  I'll definitely look into circleK. See if one of my semi-buddys at a store can order some strings for me  I've spent some time string-hunting, and strings above .135 is like more rare than penguins in the Sahara desert :S I don't really understand it, especially when you have looked at the tension charts


I have played the sr506 and I own a Warwick corvette 6-string broadneck and I prefer the the warwick by a landslide. the string spacing is much more comfortable and the neck is quite abit thinner compared to my Warwick 5-string fna jazzman.


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## Zeetwig

Just for the sake of it, since we're talking bass: Do you have or know about any other 5 and/or 6 string basses that you would recommend? Other brands than Ibanez? (I think I've looked at most Ibanez 5s and 6s, but if there's a model you think I've missed then please feel free to share it with me  )

(Ibanez.com | Basses | SR2010ASC I just have to share this one cause it is really a one-of-a-kind bass  )


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## iron blast

Warwick, conklin, cort, dingwall, Mtd, traben, spector, clement, pedulla, yamaha, ernie ball, surine, ken smith, brubaker, zon, Elrick, fodera,and alembics come to mind any of these bass companies will decimate and all of them have have 6 strings except traben and conklin unless you go custom


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## Zeetwig

Thanks  I've looked up all of the manufacturers you suggested, but I had no luck in finding something good :/ Or rather: I found a lot of good stuff, but almost everything was to expensive... I just found out that my budget suddenly have become a bit more choked, since I have to invest in a new computer... So 1200 USD is the maximum amount of cash I can spend on the bass, and preferably the price tag would be around 900 USD.

I will head into the city and test some basses I think. Try out numerous brands and models and see which ones I like the most. Then I'll talk to someone and see if they can procure a 6 string version of the model I like the most, to a nice price hopefully 

Thanks for all the help guys! Your suggestions on basses, your help with strings and tension, and your advice on pros and cons of a 6 string has been invaluable! Thank you very much everyone!  Maybe I'll resurrect this thread if I need more help, or create a new one.

Thanks once again and have a good one!


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