# JimF First Build! Slow Progress



## JimF (Mar 17, 2018)

Hi All,
I'm starting a build thread mainly to keep track of my progress and also for hints & tips if anyone stops me going wrong somewhere, and encouragement if I get disheartened!

As per the title, this is my first build from scratch. Like everyone else I've done a few parts builds, but I've also got experience with woodwork from a little knifemaking sideline I've done until changing jobs recently. For those who are interested, here are some pics: 



























Back to the case in hand!

I'm building the following:
6 string Blackmachine type guitar
Tulip Poplar body
Maple top (below average figuring)
Padauk neck with wenge centre strip & white laminates (0.6mm thick), scarf joint into headstock.
Ebony ferret
Fixed Hipshot-style bridge
Locking tuners
Still undecided on pickups, I have a single Sentient, but I fancy white/zebra pups in this build so am toying with the idea of a set of Irongear pickups. For the price I don't think I can go wrong.

Colour and finish wise I'll be going for an unfinished neck, oiled body and stained top. Haven't decided whether to go for oiled satin finish on the top or wipe on poly buffed to a high gloss. Colour will be a light brown/dark amber non burst.

I'm cheating with this build as I have bought a pre-slotted, pre-radiused fretboard, and I'll be using router templates 

On to pics!

Router templates from http://www.templatesandjigs.com/ 





Photos from the eBay listing of the top wood:





This is the type of finish I'm aiming for colour wise:






Pics of the raw materials:


























Looking forward to getting started in the coming weeks!


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## Omzig (Mar 17, 2018)

Looking good,i look forward to checking out your progress.

How much did the templates end up costing you if you don't mind me asking? 

I messaged them a while back about the Suhr Modern set they do and i think it came in at around £80 all shipped,which i thought was a bit much.

Love the knives btw,i have a box of off cuts ive been thinking of giving my bro for his wood burner,but now i think i found another use for them!


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## jwade (Mar 17, 2018)

Scrolling down to see pictures before reading the post made it seem like you were going to be making a really fancy Bo Diddly guitar


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## KnightBrolaire (Mar 17, 2018)

this just reminds me that I have to finish my knife build lol
I dig your wood choices for the handles.


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## JimF (Mar 17, 2018)

Thanks guys! 
I think including shipping it worked out at £65 or so, but it was more the fact it was a complete set of templates with no issues of lining up individual routing templates eg neck pocket, pickups routes etc and I would be able to use them again. 

The bo diddly death metal special will be ready soon!


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## BlackMastodon (Mar 22, 2018)

Damn, dude, those knives look awesome!


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## Rattlehead83 (Apr 8, 2018)

Nice!! Can't wait to see it done! Good luck!


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## electriceye (Apr 8, 2018)

Hurry up! Looking forward to seeing it done!


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## Walshy (Apr 10, 2018)

Looking forward to seeing this take shape, man. You're inspired me to have a crack at knives too. Do you buy blade 'blanks' or something?


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## JimF (Apr 10, 2018)

Yes sir, blade blanks and found somewhere willing to work to drawings I made.


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## JimF (May 21, 2018)

Overdue update, but I'm determined not to rush things. I've also sold my car, bought a new one, resigned, job hunted and then started a new job - so plenty on my mind & to keep me busy!

Pictures are pretty self explanatory, but that's never stopped me waffling before!

First pic is the obligatory layout photo, showing the padauk strips, wenge centre, and white mystery veneer strips. Why mystery veneer I hear you say? Because I forgot what I ordered. The laminates were cut on the bandsaw, before being trued up with the Safe-T-Planer, planes, spokeshave and scrapers, each used in differing orders with varying degrees of success.







Glue applied liberally, and then clamped up, I applied a secret weapon to stop the veneers curling as they were glued...







Staples!











It was then brought into the house, and left in the dining room to be forgotten about and subsequently tripped over.







A few days later it was time to straighten everything out, make sure it was true and flush.
N.B. Wenge is brutally hard compared to what I'm used to with my knifemaking history! I thought maple was hard!







Artistic shot, including delicious looking curls







Off centre, I know, but starting to look more like it should!







Sanding belt cut, and then double-side-taped to the bench for sanding on a larger scale






Distance shots including messy bench! If your bench/workshop isn't messy, are you even making progress?...







Scarf angle measured!







Then cut on the bandsaw, then sanded on the bench mounted paper. Then to the belt sander as the guard worked as a handy guide at the correct angle.










There's a slight low spot at the nearest edge (hence the curve in the line) but I'm not overly concerned about this at this stage.

Then I started with the piece I intend to scarf onto the neck blank. This was about 50mm thick, so I ran it through the bandsaw, then due to inexperience/lack of attention/not enough coffee, it ended up slanted/wedge shaped and needed correcting.
Out came the Safe-T-Planer setup including the trusty old-shelf rest.

My fence/guard for the setup was the same height as the piece of wood I was working on. So I got the double sided tape, and fixed two offcuts to the base to even it up (after sanding flat & true). Sanded again on the bench mounted paper, and ran it through the planer.


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## JimF (May 21, 2018)

Action shot - mind your fingers!







Back to the bench-sandpaper, to remove any marks







And a bit of light sanding later:







Then a cheeky mock up - Looks alright I think!










Not bad progress for a weekend in my opinion!


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## LiveOVErdrive (May 21, 2018)

Them are some pretty woods.


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## MikeNeal (May 21, 2018)

Looks great. Time to glue em up!


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## NateFalcon (May 21, 2018)

Looking awesome for a “first build”...clean work!


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## JimF (May 22, 2018)

Thanks guys! Realised I’ve done an 11degree scarf instead of 7 as per the norm for BM style builds. Can’t see it being an issue but want to research a bit just in case before I glue anything up.


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## MikeNeal (May 23, 2018)

I usually do a 12 degree scarf. Never knew blackmachine used such a narrow angle


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## JimF (May 23, 2018)

I could be wrong!
I’ll stick with what I’ve got it looks about right!


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## crackout (May 24, 2018)

I thought he used 10°.


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## Lemonbaby (May 24, 2018)

JimF said:


> Thanks guys! Realised I’ve done an 11degree scarf instead of 7 as per the norm for BM style builds. Can’t see it being an issue but want to research a bit just in case before I glue anything up.


Doesn't matter at all - glue it up.


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## MoonJelly (May 24, 2018)

There is only one true neck angle. -a Lutist probably


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## JimF (Jul 18, 2018)

Slow progress...
Wasn't overly impressed with the results from the Safe-T Planer. No real issue with the product, I just think the bearings in my bench drill have seen better days, leading to play and a not-so-good surface finish. Also the working 'throat' of the bench drill (now setup as a planer) meant I would need to find another way to thickness my body blank.
Most of the planer thicknessers were either insanely expensive or only had a 11"-12" max width. Now my body blank is 12"-13" so things were against me.
I decided to make a router thicknesser jig!
I've always been a big fan of the most complicated way of doing a simple thing, but here it is:










It works well! and with molegrips to avoid any unwanted movement, I've a pretty damn good setup! I've already ran the neck blank through this (more on this later!) and decided to make a start on the body tonight.


















One thing I realised was when standing at the table, was just how close my balls were to the router. Having heard horror stories, I decided I needed to protect the boys.


















Not quite bulletproof, but should provide peace of mind at least! And there's more protection than before!

Spent a decent amount of time tonight on it, playing with it, tweaking, setting it up etc, and managed to two a good two or so passes over the entire body width. This takes longer than you think!






My plan is to keep on with the passes, and get it down to approx 32mm. Then flip it and do a pass on the back as the blank is ever so slightly cupped. I believe most Blackmachine guitars are 30-35mm thick, and I have a 5mm maple top to add to this. I also have a guitar with a 40mm body and because it is heavily contoured on the back it feels pretty thin. I suppose with the blank currently being about 46mm I should have this down to a working final thickness by October 

Also, I mentioned earlier on about the neck blank; tonight started with gluing that up! With plenty of excess wood at either end, I believe we're going to be okay with this. Quietly confident with this, or, more humbly, not concerned with potential errors.




















I think I earned this!


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## Lemonbaby (Jul 19, 2018)

JimF said:


> My plan is to keep on with the passes, and get it down to approx 32mm. Then flip it and do a pass on the back as the blank is ever so slightly cupped. I believe most Blackmachine guitars are 30-35mm thick, and I have a 5mm maple top to add to this. I also have a guitar with a 40mm body and because it is heavily contoured on the back it feels pretty thin. I suppose with the blank currently being about 46mm I should have this down to a working final thickness by October


I choose 36mm bodies (Swamp Ash & Mahogany) for my 2nd and 3rd build that ran in parallel. The guitars turned out neck heavy as fonk, basically unplayable on a strap. Be aware of that, especially with the neck woods you're using. A thin body just for the sake of it brings you more issues than it solves. Just my 2 Cents...


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## crackout (Jul 19, 2018)

For the first body of my Blackmachine replica I used a heavy piece of swamp ash. The body was 30mm thick and together with the ebony top came out at 35mm total.
The body weighs 1.5kg (no chambering) which is just enough to balance out with the neck and its long headstock.

I recently built a second body using a piece of mahogany. This particular slab was insanely heavy which is exactly what I was looking for because I wanted the final body+top to be at only 32mm. Said body weighs in at 2kg. So I got 500g extra with 3mm thinner blank. No neck dive whatsoever.

So given the right wood pieces, you can definitely achieve super thin bodies.


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## JimF (Jul 19, 2018)

Great advice from both, thank you.


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## LiveOVErdrive (Jul 19, 2018)

I really like that planing rig. Nice work.


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## Walshy (Jul 19, 2018)

Great work on the sled, Jim. It's certainly one of the more important things to have in the workshop before you invest in a drum sander/thickness planer. Even then, being able to work with guitar body width will cost you a lot of money!

Just be mindful of body thickness if you want to put a tremolo in this or future builds - you'll need 40mm at least to make it work unless you modify the block.

I much prefer thinner bodies on my builds as well - usually between 34mm and 36mm for comfort and weight distribution reasons.


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## JimF (Jul 19, 2018)

Good thinking! Will be sticking with hardtail for now but do fancy dabbling at something with a floyd in the future!


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## MoonJelly (Jul 19, 2018)

JimF said:


> I think I earned this!



Seeing this makes me want to go back to England. They don't have flake in the US 

BTW that router sled is great.


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## electriceye (Jul 19, 2018)

You can save yourself a ton of time using a better router bit to plane your slabs. That's a fairly small bit, so I imagine it took you a long time. I suggest getting something like this: 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM20GU/?tag=sevenstringorg-20

I used that before I got a thickness sander and it worked great.


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## JimF (Jul 21, 2018)

Thanks - that looks ideal, I’m actually using a milling cutter due to the length of reach needed. But yes it took hours lol.


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## JimF (Jul 27, 2018)

Well its been a frustrating week. My progress has been as follows:

Thickness guitar body -> confirm body is perfectly flat, smooth & level -> look away for 5 seconds -> body has warped.

Now I'm not sure if its the current heatwave/humidity here in the UK, the wood itself, or some other hidden reason.

I'm pretty sure I'll be scrapping this body. It's already almost down to 30mm and that's much thinner than I wanted. Life's too short to mess around so I guess this will be going to the wood carving pile.



So I'm on the lookout for a pre-thicknessed body blank!


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## Lemonbaby (Jul 27, 2018)

JimF said:


> Well its been a frustrating week. My progress has been as follows:
> 
> Thickness guitar body -> confirm body is perfectly flat, smooth & level -> look away for 5 seconds -> body has warped.
> 
> Now I'm not sure if its the current heatwave/humidity here in the UK, the wood itself, or some other hidden reason.


How did you thickness it? Even thicker blanks should be planed from both sides in small increments. You also shouldn't expose it to direct sunlight - that alone can be enough to warp it as well...


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## JimF (Jul 27, 2018)

Thicknessed it using my router jig setup above, long shallow cuts, front to back, then overlapping 25% with the previous cut as I moved across. The body then sat flat on the workbench. No direct sunlight, but we have had crazy hot weather, and being in the UK I've never had to consider the weather affecting wood before!


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## KnightBrolaire (Jul 27, 2018)

I would hazard to guess that the wood you used for your body blank wasn't properly cured and still has a lot of moisture in it..


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## JimF (Jul 27, 2018)

That's what I'm starting the think. The supplier had issues sending my order out, and ended up taking over a month to send it, so I expect he bought some in or made a rash judgement call. I also noticed that it was very green in colour (a trait of tulip poplar) when I first received it compared to now, so clearly it was (and presumably is) still drying out.

Looking into new bodies as I write this! Toying with black walnut or 1pc wenge body. Would prefer the walnut as this wenge seems hard work to shape!


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## Soya (Jul 27, 2018)

Black walnut is great to work with, just finished up my 2nd build that has a 1 pc walnut body, easy to shape and has some nice colors with an oil finish.


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## KnightBrolaire (Jul 27, 2018)

Soya said:


> Black walnut is great to work with, just finished up my 2nd build that has a 1 pc walnut body, easy to shape and has some nice colors with an oil finish.


i 2nd this. walnut is very nice to work with and smells wonderful. probably my favorite wood to use besides maple


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## Lemonbaby (Jul 28, 2018)

+1 for Walnut


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## J_Mac (Aug 2, 2018)

Neck is gorgeous.


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## JimF (Aug 22, 2018)

Recently routed the neck shape, truss rod channel, and rough cut the headstock. Pleased with the results and pleased with how my budget router is performing.














A little off centre, but who's checking!


Ended up buying another body blank, glued and planed to thickness, so all that needs to be done is routing. Went for black walnut and bought blind, was pleasantly surprised when it arrived.











I think I'll end up using the side with the lighter flash, and use that at the bottom/bridge end of the guitar. The other side is relatively interesting, but the colouring between the two pieces is too different, and also the interesting swirls will end up being lost when the shape is cutout. Very pleased with this body blank, and I am planning to do an oil finish, no stain or anything.

With this whole build, I've tried to remain philosophical about the whole thing: yes I've chosen some tricky woods for a first build BUT I have woodworking experience, as does my father, and he is a skilled engineering consultant. The philosophical approach helped me when the first body blank went wrong, as I just kept in mind that my goal was to make a guitar, NOT to make a guitar with those particular pieces of wood; and anything wrong that happens is part of the learning curve, and part of my journey towards reaching the goal of finishing the project. If at one point we have some disasterous event, then that was always going to happen, and its a learning opportunity.

Which brings me neatly onto my next set of photos, entitled "Tearout Tuesday":












It can be safely said that I don't like Padauk as a wood to work with. It seems to be unpredictable whereas my experience with the Wenge is that it is hard hard hard hard, it seems consistent. This Padauk will cut beautifully, and then have massive tearout.
I'm not making a full tribute Blackmachine replica guitar so modifying the headstock shape slightly was always on the cards as the piece I scarfed onto the neck wasn't long enough. This just means it will take longer. 
I'm not discouraged, just a little frustrated. Most likely its occurred with interlocking grain and on radiuses where I perhaps should have gone in the opposite direction. Like I said, its all a learning experienced.


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## MikeNeal (Aug 22, 2018)

Ouch! I have had my share of tear out routing headstocks. Aside from a cnc machine. A router table is the best took for doing that


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## JimF (Aug 22, 2018)

I think I'll be either investing in a router table or at least fabricating some sort of fixture to hold my router upside in full finger removal mode, so it can be used as a table router.
Just out of interest, something I struggled with was when routing the headstock, once the template was mounted, I didn't have enough surface to be able to rest the router and ensure it was level/flat. I ended up getting a piece of 12" x 8" MDF and making a headstock template, with one side of the headstock on either side, basically a 12" wide blackmachine headstock! That helped to keep the router flat, but I think I was concentrating too much on that as opposed to grain direction, depth of cut, which way the wind was blowing, the position of polaris and other things that can affect tearout on Padauk!
Going to use my scrap body blank as a practice run this weekend too!


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## MikeNeal (Aug 22, 2018)

i have had the same issue trying to ensure that a big router is flat and level going around the headstock/horns on the body. eventually you will get the feel for it! I switched from inline style headstocks to 3x3 and 4x3 style for that very reason











and FWIW i find padauk is a pretty good wood to route. I dont think i've ever had tear out with it. i've had the worst luck with purpleheart, zebrawood, and walnut of all things. 

keep going though your first build is looking really good so far!


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## crackout (Aug 23, 2018)

Also make sure to do multiple passes when routing along a template.
Never take away too much material at once. I usually go in steps of 2mm.


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## JimF (Aug 23, 2018)

Thanks for the tips and the kind words! I do need to keep my depth of cut shallower. Would you recommend doing this freehand or with larger roller bearings?
I prefer 3x3 / 3x4 headstocks anyway!
Just hoping there’s not too many wood types/colours going on


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## crackout (Aug 23, 2018)

JimF said:


> Would you recommend doing this freehand or with larger roller bearings?


You can do this freehand. However, if you're not using a table router or a stable surface, this might be a bit tricky.


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## ElRay (Aug 23, 2018)

JimF said:


> ... I do need to keep my depth of cut shallower. Would you recommend doing this freehand or with larger roller bearings? ...


Some tips to mix and match:
0) MAKE SURE YOUR BITS ARE SHARP
1) Go with an inlay kit. They’ll have bigger brass bushings that you can swap-out 
2) Wrap your patterns with one to three layers of painter’s tape. Then after that’s routed, peel the tape off and do your final pass. 
3) Get a descent enough saber-saw and cut as close as you can to the pattern before routing. 
4) Instead of cutting progressively closer, flush cut, but go progressively deeper. 

I’ve had good results by taping the pattern, rough cutting with a saber/jig saw, cutting down, and the one final pass with no tape. 

If you’ve been doing this for a while, you’ll have sharp, but undersized bits. They’re good for the early passes, because the won’t cut right to the edge of the bearing/bushing/guide, then you can finish with the right-sized bit. Basically the tape method with no tape. 

I’ve also gotten into the habit of running painter’s tape over any cut line before cutting to prevent the top edge from chipping out. 

Oh, spiral and “compression” (top is down-cut, bottom is up-cut) bits are great too. But they’re not cheap.


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## JimF (Aug 24, 2018)

Great info thanks! Will try that again this weekend with the body! 

In a good evenings work I managed to salvage the headstock! Test fitted the tuners too. Pretty pleased!


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## JimF (Aug 24, 2018)

Great info thanks! Will try that again this weekend with the body! 

In a good evenings work I managed to salvage the headstock! Test fitted the tuners too. Pretty pleased!


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## KR250 (Aug 24, 2018)

Lots of good advice here. I tend to shy away from using a router over corners/end grain and instead cut it close with a band saw, then use a spindle sander to get the shape I want. Looking good so far.


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## electriceye (Aug 24, 2018)

Headstock tear outs are a pain. I strongly recommend you get a spiral bit. You have no idea how nice they work, no matter what the wood and grain. Cuts like butta!


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## ElRay (Aug 24, 2018)

electriceye said:


> Headstock tear outs are a pain. I strongly recommend you get a spiral bit. You have no idea how nice they work, no matter what the wood and grain. Cuts like butta!


 Also, if you're going to route after you've veneered the top and/or bottom, then compression bits are also worth the $s because the top & bottom of the bits shear-cut towards the middle, which reduces the likelihood that the veneers will chip/lift.


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## dmlinger (Aug 25, 2018)

electriceye said:


> Headstock tear outs are a pain. I strongly recommend you get a spiral bit. You have no idea how nice they work, no matter what the wood and grain. Cuts like butta!



+1 for spiral bits! If you stick with building and can justify the expense, they are worth it. 

I usually band saw close to the line, sand even closer to the line, and then route on the router table and avoid climbing cuts. As KR250 mentioned, the headstock is best left to the sander. 

You'll turn a few necks into fire wood, as most of us have! That's how you learn what works best for you. Just make sure you steam the fretboard off and try to salvage the truss rod before you put the gasoline on!


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## JimF (Aug 27, 2018)

Not quite at the bonfire stage yet!

More progress. As I'm extremely pleased with the walnut blank I have, and don't want to have to do any more thicknessing, problem solving etc, I've decided to do a practice body to make sure I'm fully comfortable with routing this before I attack the walnut.

Pretty pleased with the results on the warped tulip poplar blank!



















A few cheeky mock ups with the neck blank to remind me what it is I'm making










I just need to decide which side of the blank to have as the face.

A







B




Just to clarify, the poplar blank above will be going in the bin, its only approx 30mm thick, and not got a great surface finish. I'll just use it for routing practice (cavities etc), the walnut is a full body blank and will be cut & routed shortly.



I was leaning towards B, but now i'm thinking that A, whilst not having the lighter flash, will actually take on more character when oiled (from experience). I may even invert A so I get that lovely flamey section in the control area, but that knot may make routing the lower horn tricky...


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## JimF (Sep 11, 2018)

Pictures are self explanatory really: I tackled the neck, added the truss rod, fretboard and glued all together, flush trimmed it to suit the neck, then made a start on the body. Rough cut to shape (in the end I decided to go for Side B, but inverted), did a few passes with the router then stopped for the night. The next day my Dad was round, and he is Mr Precision (time served engineer) so got him to assist with the inlays, hence why the body is stopped mid progress! The fretboard inlays have a dab of superglue, and the side markers are held in by optimism and wishful thinking. 

Pics!


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## JimF (Sep 11, 2018)




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## JimF (Dec 4, 2018)

As per the title, slow progress, but progress nonetheless. I've made a point with this project that whenever I start getting impatient or slightly frustrated, or tired, I stop. This is when I make mistakes (learned this the hard way from knifemaking). As a result of this its meant that I've been literally weeks without doing anything. A new job in October hasn't helped either.

BUT its starting to look even more like a guitar, and I'm over the moon. I was never sure about the padauk in the neck since switching to a walnut body but now its oxidised more to a rich brown rather than a disco orange I'm falling in love with it. Very pleased with myself haha!

Now for pics!


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## pondman (Dec 4, 2018)

This is looking great !


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## JimF (Dec 4, 2018)

Holy Jesus sh*t! That means a lot coming from you mate!


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## pondman (Dec 4, 2018)

I love it, its a real classy and sharp build .


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## JimF (Dec 5, 2018)

White pickups may have been a wrong choice, but we'll see!


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## Walshy (Dec 5, 2018)

Been away a while. First place I look upon my return is good old Luthier's Corner.

Great stuff, Jim. Happy to see you've been making steady progress on this.

My first build had the same issue with tearout on the headstock. As others said, spiral bits are your friend (check out Radian Tools) but sometimes going around sharp corners just invite trouble as the bit can dig into the endgrain, even with small passes. Nothing wrong with sanding those areas (edges or horns, corners of headstocks usually) until you get your confidence up.


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## Rattlehead83 (Dec 5, 2018)

Now I must abstain myself from making a blackmachine, hah!


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## Bunkatronic (Dec 5, 2018)

Great stuff dude! Looking over our builds it seems we've had some pretty similar experiences. I'm going to knick that router thicknessing jig design!


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## JimF (Dec 5, 2018)

To say I'm normally very scientific in my approaches to life, I've viewed this build in a more philosophical way. That is, any misfortunes that occur were always going to occur, and have led to a learning experience, and this was always the way that it was going to be. The fact that the poplar body didn't work out, I've viewed as being the plan of the cosmos all along. And having to re-thickness it about ten times gave me lots of practice with the thicknessing jig.
However on the walnut body blank, I paid an extra £12 and the wood supplier glued and thicknessed it for me, so that was a no-brainer


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## JimF (Dec 10, 2018)

Aaaaand we have frets!

Ebony is a nightmare to work with. Ended up using a triangular needle file and putting a chamfer on the top of the slot. Everything else went pretty good! Found is easier to work one side to another, rather than left-right-middle. I think I was fighting the barbs of the fret tangs, trying to make them go sideways to counteract their radius. All sorted now!


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## JimF (Dec 16, 2018)

We now have level frets! Just need to re-crown them now. I'm not going to lie, this hasn't been my favourite part of the process.



























names with the letter z


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## Rattlehead83 (Dec 17, 2018)

Yeah, just the same boring liniar movement. Hope they'll be as perfect as you want them to be, so you won't need to level them again after final assambling


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## JimF (Dec 17, 2018)

Oh I'm fully prepared for them to be sub-par


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## JimF (Aug 22, 2022)

Ever done that thing where you completely forgot about a guitar you're building?


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## Velokki (Aug 22, 2022)

JimF said:


> Ever done that thing where you completely forgot about a guitar you're building?


Still faster than Vik, BRJ, Dylan or even Doug!


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## Lemonbaby (Aug 22, 2022)

JimF said:


> Ever done that thing where you completely forgot about a guitar you're building?


Haha. Only when I got carried away with a new build before finishing the current one.


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