# Best budget 4 string bass for Drop G#..?



## lewis (Jul 26, 2016)

ok so Im looking at getting a bass purely for home recordings/demos. Im my bands only guitarist and Im using Drop G# open tuning. I literally want THE cheapest, budget, piece of crap...that happens to work well and sound surprisingly ok considering.

anyone know what would tick these boxes. I dont even care if its like a non brand cheap beater. As long as it makes sound haha. Half of a great tone you can achieve by A) running through my Kemper and B) post production magic.

Thanks guys

p.S what would the bass have to be tuned to to work/match my Drop G# guitar. (to transition perfectly from guitar to bass as Im not a bassist i.e like Im still playing the riffs on my guitar but Im on bass instead)


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## ixlramp (Jul 26, 2016)

Guitar drop G# open is what notes per-string?
I would have thought the bass would be an octave below the lowest 4 of the guitar, makes it simple for you.
I assume you want octave-down G# in the bass? that's doable with a .145. You'll need a custom set of singles (www.stringsdirect.com D'Addario singles would be good).
Ideally you'd want a 35" scale but that's rare for a 4 string.
For fitting the big strings make sure it has a modern top-loading slot-loading bridge and a conventional distance from ball-end anchor point to saddle so that taperwound strings work, the .145 must be a taperwound.
A reasonably generous amount of room to move the lowest saddle back is needed to intonate the .145.


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## Winspear (Jul 26, 2016)

As D'addario do a 160 now and the nut is going to be needed filing anyway, I'd suggest at least that instead. It's only in line with regular 100 E and 130 B. 
But yeah any 34" or 35" with a top loading bridge with good intonation adjustment 

You can buy the 160 from D'addarios website along wtih other singles. Stringsdirect is good but I can't see above 145 on there. It's not like people don't tune that low with a 145 but I wouldn't personally recommend it given the 100 130 reference point above. I would suggest single strings around 160 105 80 60 for G# D# G# C#


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## Nlelith (Jul 27, 2016)

Well, it's not a piece of crap, but I'd suggest Cort Artisan B4 OPN. It's fairly cheap for it's specs.


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## lewis (Jul 28, 2016)

thanks for the advice so far guys.

my tuning on the guitar is - 

G# D# G# C# G# C# D#

ive noticed that Thomann do some very nice looking own brand Harley Benton basses. I can get a 5 string for real cheap money. Like £120 or something.


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## laxu (Jul 28, 2016)

lewis said:


> ive noticed that Thomann do some very nice looking own brand Harley Benton basses. I can get a 5 string for real cheap money. Like or something.



Not worth it. They are what they are, cheap basses. Just buy a better bass used if you're on a budget. A few hundred euros should score you a used half-decent Yamaha or Ibanez that is surely better than the Harley Benton stuff.

For low tunings you'd want preferably something with a longer 35" scale.


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## olejason (Jul 28, 2016)

I don't know of any cheap 35" scale basses but it isn't something I've really followed. I think you're just going to need a large enough string to retain tension on the Ab. It sounds like you don't care about the bass all that much so I'd just get a 4 string Ibanez, Schecter, or whatever. For the low Ab you'll probably want a .130+ so you'll want to order a new nut or just file out the slots on whatever you get. Krallium strings will make it easy to get something to support the tuning.


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## Winspear (Jul 28, 2016)

Seconded used bass in the £300-£500 quality range over anything sub £250 new.


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## lewis (Jul 28, 2016)

i should of mentioned in my original post that I dont want to pay more than £150 for one.


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## lewis (Jul 28, 2016)

laxu said:


> Not worth it. They are what they are, cheap basses. Just buy a better bass used if you're on a budget. A few hundred euros should score you a used half-decent Yamaha or Ibanez that is surely better than the Harley Benton stuff.
> 
> For low tunings *you'd want preferably something with a longer 35" scale*.



The Harley benton 6 string bass has a 35inch scale


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## Winspear (Jul 29, 2016)

Yeah definitely look for a used bass then


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## BryanBuss (Jul 30, 2016)

Rondo custom shop 37" scale, or one of their multiscale options. Should land less than $600USD


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## lewis (Jul 31, 2016)

just been given a free, unknown brand 4 string bass by my drummer. Going to restore it (new hardware etc) and use that. (Get the 170 gauge strings going haha)


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## lewis (Jul 31, 2016)

EtherealEntity said:


> As D'addario do a 160 now and the nut is going to be needed filing anyway, I'd suggest at least that instead. It's only in line with regular 100 E and 130 B.
> But yeah any 34" or 35" with a top loading bridge with good intonation adjustment
> 
> You can buy the 160 from D'addarios website along wtih other singles. Stringsdirect is good but I can't see above 145 on there. It's not like people don't tune that low with a 145 but I wouldn't personally recommend it given the 100 130 reference point above. I would suggest single strings around 160 105 80 60 for G# D# G# C#



thanks for this info and i will make the first restring on the thing, as close to your suggestion as possible.

also it has this type of bridge - 







EDIT: I can find sets that include .105,85, 70 and 50 gauge. Would removing the 50, and buying say a 145 or 160 to add to the low and shifting everything down one string work?

so - 

145/160, 105, 70, 50

lighter on top slightly. Would that work?


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## exo (Jul 31, 2016)

I think you're gonna have problems using a huge low string with that bridge. String isn't gonna feed thru the plate, that's why folks have mentione a "slot loading" bridge a few different times here.


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## exo (Jul 31, 2016)




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## ixlramp (Jul 31, 2016)

Before replacing the bridge, try drilling the holes wider, if it doesn't work no loss. Replacing a bridge is problematic due to screw hole positions.
First use the smallest bit that doesn't fit in the hole, check with the string, then use next larger bit, repeat. Use a set of bits with 0.5mm or 1mm steps.
Or i guess you could use a round file (preferably a diamond file, not expensive) and lots of effort.

So assuming you will tune G# D# G# C# low to high and aiming for medium tension on the highest 3 strings:
.145/.160 105 80 60
This will have equal tension strings if you use the .160.
Since you'll need a single .145/.160 don't waste money (and a string) buying a set, buy a custom set of singles by mail order (guitar shops do not stock a good range of bass singles).
Strings direct have been able to order in special gauges for me before so will probably be able to get a D'Addario .160 for you.


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## lewis (Jul 31, 2016)

yeah I will defo try and just drill the holes larger. Will I need a special drill bit to go through this metal?.I see what you guys mean now about slot bridges.

replacing the bridge is going to be a hassle for sure. Too much of one actually and an avenue, on a budget bass, im not really willing to undertake. Too much drilling/hole lining up/string space issues etc.

will ordering 4 single strings, work out an expensive way to do it?. I dont want to spend £50 or something on 1 restring on a budget bass. (The whole guitar is probably not worth that haha)

EDIT: I presume the holes on this bridge are big enough for all the other gauges Im guna need, just not big enough for the largest .145/.160 gauge string?. I.e will I only need to drill out/enlarge the first hole only?


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## exo (Jul 31, 2016)

The 105/80/60 should be fine. I don't know if you can get the 145 thru;105 is a pretty typical diameter for the lowest string on a 4, and I've got no idea how much bigger the bridge is drilled to accept.


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## ixlramp (Aug 1, 2016)

Single strings are not much more expensive bought individually, but of course the big .145/.160 will cost more than your average bass string. Not wasting money on an unused string will help compensate though.
1 or 2 of the other holes might need widening a little, not sure.
Ideally you would use drill bits suitable for drilling metal, if you can't borrow bits from someone a round diamond needle file is good enough, you also get more control over the exact diameter of the hole and can enlarge the hole away from the intonation holes (a drill bit would enlarge concentrically). They're fairly cheap and much cheaper than a drill bit set.
Perhaps, after buying the strings and seeing which fit, buy 2 files: a wider file is stronger and files away more evenly, i would get the largest that fits in the E hole, then if needed buy another for the smaller holes that need widening.


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## lewis (Aug 1, 2016)

ixlramp said:


> Single strings are not much more expensive bought individually, but of course the big .145/.160 will cost more than your average bass string. Not wasting money on an unused string will help compensate though.
> 1 or 2 of the other holes might need widening a little, not sure.
> Ideally you would use drill bits suitable for drilling metal, if you can't borrow bits from someone a round diamond needle file is good enough, you also get more control over the exact diameter of the hole and can enlarge the hole away from the intonation holes (a drill bit would enlarge concentrically). They're fairly cheap and much cheaper than a drill bit set.
> Perhaps, after buying the strings and seeing which fit, buy 2 files: a wider file is stronger and files away more evenly, i would get the largest that fits in the E hole, then if needed buy another for the smaller holes that need widening.



This is excellent advice mate thank you!!

also it just occured to me, could I not record the bass in the same octave as the guitar G#1 (thus allowing me to have normal gauge strings on the bass) and then just pitch shift it down an octave after its recorded to G#0?

ive ordered a new bridge with Brass saddles and new tuners (1 was missing a button) and Im now looking at good replacement pickups (thinking Lace) so Im looking forward to getting this Bass done.

If I were to get away with being in the same octave as the guitar, what string gauges could I then use in that case?


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## ixlramp (Aug 1, 2016)

New bridge eh? do the screw holes match up?
Pitch shift is a very different synthetic/false type sound, i would consider that a worse sound than a cheap bass with a .145.

Concerning gauges, i recommend the .145. It will be low tension but just enough to be usable.

A possible problem with a .160 is that the larger a string is, the further back the saddle needs to go to intonate it. A 4 string bass isn't designed for such big strings so the saddle may not be able to go far back enough.

Other advantages: cheaper, and available as a steel roundwound, the D'Addario .160 is only nickelwound. Big strings suffer from a dull tone caused by stiffness caused by extreme gauge, so the brighter tone of a steel roundwound will help, and is more suitable for metal anyway.

Less hole widening needed too if you are still going to do that.

Important: make sure the .145/.160 is a taperwound, otherwise it will sound dull and will have more problems fitting the bridge.


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## lewis (Aug 1, 2016)

ixlramp said:


> New bridge eh? do the screw holes match up?
> Pitch shift is a very different synthetic/false type sound, i would consider that a worse sound than a cheap bass with a .145.
> 
> Concerning gauges, i recommend the .145. It will be low tension but just enough to be usable.
> ...



Im thinking 145 too. I hate Really thick strings and looser tension doesnt bother me (as long as it isnt spaghetti).

Regards to the bridge Ive got, All the other measurements tally up including string spacing so Im hoping the screw holes will lineup and fit perfectly (It was the only measurements not given).

The pitch shift was just an idea but ok cool I will scrap that Idea then. 

So I want taperwound steel 145, 105, 80, 60? strings (Will it matter if they are the super too long ones for a 4 string? 36inch or whatever?.)

also regards to the saddle not going far enough back to intonate, I know exactly how that feels. My 8 string with a 90 gauge for my low, I had to cut the saddle screw down a little so I could actually get the saddle back far enough and still get the string to fit through the bridge hole. Without cutting the screw down the saddle being that far back, actually obstructed some of the hole for the string to pass through which meant it wouldn't go through.


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## HollowmanPL (Aug 1, 2016)

squier vm jazz bass!!


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## AmoryB (Aug 2, 2016)

G&L JB Bass! Got one for a little over 100 bucks and sounds great!


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## ixlramp (Aug 2, 2016)

Assuming your bass is 34" scale you'll need the normal 'long scale' D'Addarios. It matters because if the .145 tries to wrap around the tuner post at full or near-full gauge it will break, it must taper between nut and tuner post.
Only the .145 is available as taperwound (taperwound = bridge-end taper) the others are fine being non-taperwound.
So yes D'Addario Prosteels Long-scale singles, i use the prosteel tapered .145 and love it, excellent string.

If the screw hole dimensions were not checked it's unlikely they'll match up, sorry to say it. Unless the screw spacing is exactly identical you will have big problems and it's best to modify the existing bridge. Perhaps, if you can, you should return the bridge. No-one should sell bridges without giving screw hole spacing information, that's the most important information.


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## lewis (Aug 3, 2016)

ixlramp said:


> Assuming your bass is 34" scale you'll need the normal 'long scale' D'Addarios. It matters because if the .145 tries to wrap around the tuner post at full or near-full gauge it will break, it must taper between nut and tuner post.
> Only the .145 is available as taperwound (taperwound = bridge-end taper) the others are fine being non-taperwound.
> So yes D'Addario Prosteels Long-scale singles, i use the prosteel tapered .145 and love it, excellent string.
> 
> If the screw hole dimensions were not checked it's unlikely they'll match up, sorry to say it. Unless the screw spacing is exactly identical you will have big problems and it's best to modify the existing bridge. Perhaps, if you can, you should return the bridge. No-one should sell bridges without giving screw hole spacing information, that's the most important information.



You know what, seeing as i cant find any info about its scale length online i will measure it and report back. It is only 20 frets though. Is the scale the distance between bridge and nut?

Yeah i will defo return the bridge if it doesnt fit properly. All other measurements that were provided are the same so fingers crossed.


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## lewis (Aug 3, 2016)

UPDATE: the measurement between top of the nut and end of the bridge (where the string ball is) was like 32 inches.


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## ixlramp (Aug 3, 2016)

Scale is nut to saddle, and yours sounds like a 30" scale bass, that will be unsuitable for tuning that low, and you won't find big strings able to fit it they will be too long.
Best find another bass, 4 or 5 string, 34" or 35" scale and with a slotted top-loading bridge. A 5 string would be ideal as it is more likely to have a good range of intonation adjustment and more likely to be 35".
I live in SE England too and recommend the Cash Converters music shop in Norwich, there's also a 2nd hand guitar shop over the road a little further out called Make Some Noise, they have some basses.
£150 is too low for a new bass, best get a 2nd hand one, you can get a cheap but reasonable bass for £150 2nd hand.


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## lewis (Aug 8, 2016)

Bridge arrived and fitted perfectly. New tuners are on aswell so happy days. Just need to get these strings now.


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## lewis (Aug 8, 2016)

So I have it in Drop G# same octave as the guitars (G#1 is my lowest) and I think it sounds awesome!. I dont think I need it to be an octave under tbh. So in that instance, what could my bass string gauges be?


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## Winspear (Aug 9, 2016)

If your bass is shortscale 30" tuned to G# D# G# C# in the upper octave, you are close to the highest 4 of 6 string bass tuning BEADGC. You'd be able to get away with the upper 4 of a regular 6 string set 130 100 80 65 45 32 but the 130 and 100 would be wasted. The G# would also be quite loose given the scale length and being dropped.
What does work quite well is ditching the 80 string for the 100. 100 65 45 32. This gets progressively tighter towards the low end. 
You could also try putting another D# on the bottom a semitone from regular bass E. D# G# D# G, with the 130 100 65 45 of a 5 string set. 

These are your options with regularly available strings I think.

Getting into less common sets, there's a lighter Daddario set EXL220-5 string of which 125 95 60 40 would be perfect and less unnecessarily tight than the option listed above for d# g# d# g#

If you want to stay in the higher tuning without the D#, I'm not aware of any suitable set options. D'addario website sell custom singles. I would suggest 90 60 45 32


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## lewis (Aug 10, 2016)

EtherealEntity said:


> If your bass is shortscale 30" tuned to G# D# G# C# in the upper octave, you are close to the highest 4 of 6 string bass tuning BEADGC. You'd be able to get away with the upper 4 of a regular 6 string set 130 100 80 65 45 32 but the 130 and 100 would be wasted. The G# would also be quite loose given the scale length and being dropped.
> What does work quite well is ditching the 80 string for the 100. 100 65 45 32. This gets progressively tighter towards the low end.
> You could also try putting another D# on the bottom a semitone from regular bass E. D# G# D# G, with the 130 100 65 45 of a 5 string set.
> 
> ...



thanks for this info bud  its what i will look into for sure. The plus too should be restrings being way cheaper than getting massive gauges for a tuning octave under this


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## Winspear (Aug 10, 2016)

Indeed! I mentioned the 6 string set in my first suggestion but forgot to mention a 4 string set and single 32 is probably cheaper than throwing away a 130 and 100!


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## Action (Aug 15, 2016)

This was interesting and unexpected. So it turned out to be a short scale, and it turned out to sound massive in the same octave. I love it! Great work.



EtherealEntity said:


> You could also try putting another D# on the bottom. D# G# D# G#, with the 130 100 65 45 of a 5 string set.



Aye, this is what I would have done, giving me a powerful low note beneath some of the higher chords. Always an option in the future if you want it.


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## NeglectedField (Aug 20, 2016)

I would go for a used Ibanez BTB. They don't make the cheap models anymore. 35" scale unless you're insistent on 34".


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