# First build: Neck-through or bolt on?



## Suitable (Feb 28, 2013)

Hi all,

I'm about to start my first attempt at making a guitar from scratch. I want to do a neck through for its solidness and nice sustain. Do you think this will be a bit full on for a firrst build or will it be not to different apart from the obvious. Thinking a 5 piece neck and a exaggerated RG shaped body. Body timber will be qld maple, same with the neck.

Cheers for the help!

Steve


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## Minoin (Feb 28, 2013)

A neck-through is great, but not ideal to begin with. I'd stick with the bolt on. Learn how to calculate neck angles, see what works for you. And if you fck up the neck, you can make a new one.
My two cents


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## Suitable (Feb 28, 2013)

Can you make the neck/dress it before you glur it to the body for a neck thru or do you drss it whilst it's set in? I do see your point and it makes a lot of sense!


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## canuck brian (Feb 28, 2013)

You can definitely work/dress the neck before gluing the wings on. I'd also recommend doing a bolt on first - that way you're not going to write off the whole guitar if you make a mistake on the body or the neck. 

Just make sure you've got templates for everything you do. Can't stress that enough.


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## explosivo (Feb 28, 2013)

I always do as much of the neck construction before gluing the body wings on. It will make the build go much smoother.


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## Necromagnon (Feb 28, 2013)

I will go it total opposite of you, guys: both have their difficulties and advantages.
Solidness: there's no point here: if you do a good joint, they are as solid.
Sound: I pay you 45456565$ if you can hear the difference between 2 neck joints.
Difficulties: if you have a neck angle to do, neck through will be a pain in the ass. But if you have a low profile bridge (OFR, Hipshot flat moint and some other, or even recessed ToM), neck through will be much easier than bolt-on, as you don't have to do a neck pocket and a neck heel that fit perfectly inside. You only have to have nice joint planes on the neck, that is really easy to obtain with thicknesser (or even a good router jig).

So, plan your build, make sure of what YOU want, makes some drawings, calculate everything, every dimensions, and then, judge the difficulties of both neck joint, and you'll see that the choice will come out by itself.

For my part, I've built 2 neck through as my 1st builds, and I got no problem about it (many others, but it's another story  ).


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## Navid (Feb 28, 2013)

Personally I'd build a bolt-on with a well designed heel.
I think fret bevelling and dressing will be harder to do on a neck through while a bolt on isn't as easy as it seems, a well done neck pocket is difficult to do.
As long as you use threaded inserts or t-nuts a bolt-on will be hardly any different from a neck through. 

I agree with Necromagnon, if you're going to use a tall bridge and need neck angle, then bolt on is probably the best to start with.


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## Necromagnon (Feb 28, 2013)

Navid said:


> I think fret bevelling and dressing will be harder to do on a neck through while a bolt on isn't as easy as it seems, a well done neck pocket is difficult to do.


There's one thing to be aware of when making a neck throught (I learned it after screwing...): do every work on the neck BEFORE gluing wings. Including: fretting, fret dressing, fretboard gluing, neck shaping, etc. Also, it's better imo to cut the inside of the horns before gluing wings.


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## flo (Feb 28, 2013)

My personal experience is that a neck-thru construction is actually easier. Do what you want, there's no point in building a guitar that you are 93% satisfied with and that (in your mind) would be better if it had a different neck attachment.


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## flo (Feb 28, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Sound: I pay you 45456565$ if you can hear the difference between 2 neck joints.



this debate is I guess at least as old as humankind, if not older... but you're right


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## ElRay (Feb 28, 2013)

I predict there's a thread on this over at Project Guitar ... Bolt-On Vs. Neck-Thru First Build Conundrum - Solid Body Guitar and Bass Chat - Project Guitar Forum ... Yeah. I asked the same thing over there.

After mulling this over for a while, I would say, if you're new to woodworking in general, and you suspect/fear you'll mess-up the neck, using a bridge that requires a Neck Angle, or you're not too sure of your design skills, I'd say build a bolt-on. This way, you'll be able to remake only that part that gets messed-up.

If you're pretty comfortable with your woodworking/design skills, using a flat-mount bridge that shouldn't need a neck angle, then I'd say go with a neck-through, because as long as you plan things out well, it will be a bit more simple.

That said, the ultimate decision will be based on the tools and materials you have available. If it's going to be a pain to remove as much wood as needed for a neck-through, then a bolt-on may be the only viable choice.

Edit: 
Finally, a good bolt-on (tight neck pocket, tight neck bolts, no paint, debris, etc. in the pocket) should have just as much sustain as a neck-through.

Ray


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## Necromagnon (Feb 28, 2013)

flo said:


> My personal experience is that a neck-thru construction is actually easier. Do what you want, there's no point in building a guitar that you are 93% satisfied with and that (in your mind) would be better if it had a different neck attachment.


+1

It's better to do something a bit more difficult, maybe less succeeded than a easiest one, but at least that is what you want. There's more pride in almost succeeding something you want than succeeded something you don't.



> this debate is I guess at least as old as humankind, if not older... but you're right


Yes, it's very old, but still people try to smother to it.


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## RV350ALSCYTHE (Feb 28, 2013)

I believe neck-through is an easier build compared to bolt-on.

There is no neck joint area to properly fit the neck to the body, just glue the body wings to the side of a square neck blank. The neck relief angle is also easier to add with a neckthrough as you can offset the bodywings slightly, opposed to trying to get the correct angle on either the neck heel or the body.

I have not built any bolt-ons but have worked with Frankenstein bolt-ons and find it can be a hassle getting a neck to seat properly, which is why I chose neck-through for my first build and probably will continue this method for each build to follow.

This book goes through bolt-on, set-neck, and neck-through builds, which could help you decide which method will work best for your first attempt. I was disappointed in the lack of detail in the book though, it's more of a first step/introduction.


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## pondman (Feb 28, 2013)

One thing I wouldn't do for a first build is use expensive timbers . Try something easy like a Telecaster with basic cheaper timbers and save the good stuff for your 2nd build after you've learned from all the basic mistakes every one makes on a first build.
Good luck with the build


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## vansinn (Feb 28, 2013)

Quote: Originally Posted by Necromagnon 
Sound: I pay you 45456565$ if you can hear the difference between 2 neck joints.



flo said:


> this debate is I guess at least as old as humankind, if not older... but you're right



The only difference I really hear and experience is that some bolt-on's seems to have more snap/pluck than any other construction.
Tone and sustain can be equally good; it's mostly down to attention to detail and knowledgeable craftmanship, and choices of wood plays-in much less than maybe believed by many, as long as good quality is used.

Matter of fact, the main differences I hear between most guitars, besides that some have a Bit more sustain while others have more snap, is the tonal differences between the pickups - and very much the player's style


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## Necromagnon (Feb 28, 2013)

vansinn said:


> Matter of fact, the main differences I hear between most guitars, besides that some have a Bit more sustain while others have more snap, is the tonal differences between the pickups - and very much the player's style


Obviously. 



> One thing I wouldn't do for a first build is use expensive timbers


I don't agree with this. Body shape is NOT a problem (well, since you don't try to do some Ikon or stuff...  ). Personnaly, I hate tele, and all fenders. If I'd started with a fender like, I'd probably puke on it, and put in fire, and never build any other guitars (wouldn't be that bad, in fact...).
The best is to build what you want, no matter the rest. A carve is top is a bit harder than a flat top, obviously, but is still really feasable, etc.



> The neck relief angle is also easier to add with a neckthrough


Not so easy with a neckthrough. You have to do 2 none parallele planes for fretboard joint and top surface, so that implies to have a regular angle on a very long distance. Thus, more chance to screw up. With a bolt-on neck, you make a flat heel, and then you make a small wedge with the angle. And if the angle is not good, it's really easy to unmount the neck and build a new wedge, while with a neckthrough...


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## Gregori (Feb 28, 2013)

Definitely a bolt-on. canuk brian said it already, but if you mess up the body or neck on a bolt-on, you don't have to scrap the whole guitar. 

And a bolt-on is pretty easy to work with because you're doing the neck and body separately. You can make your body, set it aside, then build your neck without having to worry about the body being in the way or getting dinged up.


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## Necromagnon (Mar 1, 2013)

Gregori said:


> And a bolt-on is pretty easy to work with because you're doing the neck and body separately. You can make your body, set it aside, then build your neck without having to worry about the body being in the way or getting dinged up.


That's what I was thinking before trying. The last was a set neck, so in the basics the same as a bolt-on (neck and body separated, etc.), and finally... I see no difference at all, except that it's very easy to screw a neck pocket. 
Seriously, when I build a guitar, I 1st do everything on the neck, and then work the body. So having body glued already to the neck or not won't matter me so much. And also, I don't like to switch to body then to neck, and all, because you always miss something, put the part you've left in none correct place (I've broke the headstock 2 times due to this...  ), risk that it can be scratched, etc.

This is just my opinion, considering my way of working (badly).


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## 72xmulch (Mar 1, 2013)

Personally I think it depends on what tools and skills you have but neither seems harder.. if.you screw up a.neckthrough you can replace the neck by cutting.it.off and routing a joint if it doesmt work for you?


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## Suitable (Mar 1, 2013)

WOW! It s pretty much 50/50. Thanks all for the info and recomendations! Im going to have to buy some books and do alot of reading about this...

I see good points from both sides of the discussion. Really looking forward to this build! 

1 thing.. Can I get a list of tools Ill need to do the job? That way I can work out what I have and dont have (so ill need to get them). Also where is the best place to buy luthery tools online?

Cheers for your help and info all! Its greatly appriciated!!!


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## Necromagnon (Mar 1, 2013)

Suitable said:


> 1 thing.. Can I get a list of tools Ill need to do the job? That way I can work out what I have and dont have (so ill need to get them). Also where is the best place to buy luthery tools online?


There's tons of suppliers, online and in real life. Depends on where you live and if you can drive out or not.
Also, for tools, I'd advise you to search in workshop furnitures, more than luthiery furnitures. You know, there's a little something that does, when it's written "for luthiery", the price go 5 times higher... 

About the list of tool... Well... Depends on if you can have some outside help for the big machining (thicknesser, table saw, band saw, etc.). In terms of "home tools", I'd advise: a router, a jigsaw, some rasps/files, chisels/gouges/planes, a kataba saw, real sand paper, and a lot of space.

PS: and I'm sure I forgot some.


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## RV350ALSCYTHE (Mar 1, 2013)

Suitable said:


> WOW! It s pretty much 50/50. Thanks all for the info and recomendations! Im going to have to buy some books and do alot of reading about this...
> 
> I see good points from both sides of the discussion. Really looking forward to this build!
> 
> ...



The book I mentioned earlier has a Tools section outlining a bunch of woodworking tools you could use. I've personally haven't needed the majority of them. Listed things like Spokeshaves and Drawknives, mostly traditional handtools.

Power Tools I've used are the TableSaw, Bandsaw, Router, Thickness Planer and Jointer.

Hand Tools I've used so far are a basic Handsaw, Rasps/Files, and a Sanding Block.

You don't really need a lot of tools to make a guitar but the options help speed up the process.

You can get everything you need at any hardware store.
Online suppliers like StewMac and Lee Valley offer more specialized quality tools but at a higher cost.


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## Pikka Bird (Mar 1, 2013)

^What's that black LMII thing you have there?


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## Suitable (Mar 1, 2013)

Awesome! I've pretty much got all of those tools except for the katabo saw (is that for fretting ?) And ill need a fretting file (please correct my terminology!). Ill get that book you mentioned annd is there any others i should get?

Cheers for the info!


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## AwDeOh (Mar 1, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> There's tons of suppliers, online and in real life. Depends on where you live and if you can drive out or not.
> Also, for tools, I'd advise you to search in workshop furnitures, more than luthiery furnitures. You know, there's a little something that does, when it's written "for luthiery", the price go 5 times higher...
> 
> About the list of tool... Well... Depends on if you can have some outside help for the big machining (thicknesser, table saw, band saw, etc.). In terms of "home tools", I'd advise: a router, a jigsaw, some rasps/files, chisels/gouges/planes, a kataba saw, real sand paper, and a lot of space.
> ...



I find that imaginary sand paper is really good for test runs, before you switch to real sand paper. You'll need a sanding block made of Brazilian MDF if you really want a nice finish with imaginary sandpaper.


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## immortalx (Mar 2, 2013)

I have to agree with some folks here, a neckthrough is actually easier if there's no top wood and you're going to use a flat bridge.
No need for a neck angle and routing for a neck pocket, which needs precision that a beginner is unlikely to do properly. And it's not the end of the world if you screw up: On a bolt on if the neck ends up as firewood you have to make a new one. On a neckthrough you can always cut the neck portion and get a neck pocket in there, if there's enough meat in the heel.


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## Necromagnon (Mar 2, 2013)

Suitable said:


> Awesome! I've pretty much got all of those tools except for the katabo saw (is that for fretting ?)


You'll need one for fretting (I use a japanese "microsaw"). I bought one kataba (I don't remember if it's this name or another...) to saw everything. It works just so perfectly that I use only this when I need to saw something, no matter what and why... 



Suitable said:


> And ill need a fretting file (please correct my terminology!).


Fretting file? I'm not sure it exist. Also, I'm not sure what will be the use of such a tool. A saw to make fret slots, and a cutter (anything that works) to cut fretwire to the correct length, and you're good.



> I find that imaginary sand paper is really good for test runs, before you switch to real sand paper. You'll need a sanding block made of Brazilian MDF if you really want a nice finish with imaginary sandpaper.


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## Pikka Bird (Mar 2, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Fretting file? I'm not sure it exist. Also, I'm not sure what will be the use of such a tool. A saw to make fret slots, and a cutter (anything that works) to cut fretwire to the correct length, and you're good.


I think perhaps he means a fret crowning file. Or a leveling file, even? The latter can be swapped for a decent spirit level with sandpaper attached.


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## Necromagnon (Mar 2, 2013)

Pikka Bird said:


> I think perhaps he means a fret crowning file. Or a leveling file, even? The latter can be swapped for a decent spirit level with sandpaper attached.


A crowning file is really usefull, while you can do a decent fretjob without.
A leveling file, I don't know if it exist. For my part, I use a stiff square section beam, with double-taped sand paper (600 grit) on it. It works really fine, and cost me nothing.


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## AwDeOh (Mar 2, 2013)

STEWMAC.COM : Double-edge Fret File






Might be talking bout one of these?


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## flo (Mar 2, 2013)

Tools required: sandpaper (real sandpaper of cause, not the imaginary crap)

Everything else is optional


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## Suitable (Mar 2, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> STEWMAC.COM : Double-edge Fret File
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yep, thats what i was talking about, saw it on a refret youtube vid, don't know if I need one? I'm just a noob to neck/fret work.

Shit! I just bought 20m of 400grit imaginary sand paper last night off no-shit-guitar-shit.com last night! I also came across Brazilian woven pubic blocks and bought the virgin female version as they claim that using these will givve you a tighter result overall than using their standard Brazilian MDF version which uses coarse male monkey anus hair... I thought it was a no brainer ... shit... I hope I can get a refund! Have I been scammed?


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## AwDeOh (Mar 2, 2013)

Suitable said:


> Yep, thats what i was talking about, saw it on a refret youtube vid, don't know if I need one? I'm just a noob to neck/fret work.
> 
> Shit! I just bought 20m of 400grit imaginary sand paper last night off no-shit-guitar-shit.com last night! I also came across Brazilian woven pubic blocks and bought the virgin female version as they claim that using these will givve you a tighter result overall than using their standard Brazilian MDF version which uses coarse male monkey anus hair... I thought it was a no brainer ... shit... I hope I can get a refund! Have I been scammed?





Pretty sure I have one of those files in my big box of StewMac stuff in Australia.. left it there when I moved back here, trying to get it sent over at the moment.

Ohh.. the goodies that lie in that box.


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## anthonyferguson (Mar 3, 2013)

Suitable said:


> Yep, thats what i was talking about, saw it on a refret youtube vid, don't know if I need one? I'm just a noob to neck/fret work.
> 
> Shit! I just bought 20m of 400grit imaginary sand paper last night off no-shit-guitar-shit.com last night! I also came across Brazilian woven pubic blocks and bought the virgin female version as they claim that using these will givve you a tighter result overall than using their standard Brazilian MDF version which uses coarse male monkey anus hair... I thought it was a no brainer ... shit... I hope I can get a refund! Have I been scammed?



Hahahahahaha marvellous


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## Suitable (Mar 3, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Pretty sure I have one of those files in my big box of StewMac stuff in Australia.. left it there when I moved back here, trying to get it sent over at the moment.
> 
> Ohh.. the goodies that lie in that box.



I can get the box and send it to you if you like. It might be empty when you get it though :jokes:


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## groverj3 (Mar 4, 2013)

If you want a neck through, build a neck through. If you want a bolt-on, build that.

Measure twice and cut once.

... and make me one too!


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## Suitable (Mar 4, 2013)

I'm going to go a neck through, it what I want so it does make sense to build one straight off the bat. Ill be going a floyd for the bridge so no neck angle necessary, BKP Aftermaths for pickups most probably, neck will rather flat, pondering the rest...

How would qld maple go for a body and neck (neck will have some other hard dark timber for extra strength) with BKP Aftermaths tone wise? I know an axe is only 15% of overall tone (so some say). Advice will be greatly apriciated! 

Ps I take my time when building stuff, good things take time. Seen it too many times on job sites (boss goes in guns blazing, rush rush rush then oh fu(), idiots, that's why I left the building game...


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## Suitable (Mar 4, 2013)

Typing on this phone sucks arse! Error after error...


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## AwDeOh (Mar 4, 2013)

Queensland Maple is quite commonly used for necks, just be aware that it's actually technically a Citrus tree. Tonally it's in the Mahogany area.


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## Suitable (Mar 4, 2013)

Sweet! So it should sound fruitfully good then  If I do a good enough job that is... Cheers for the info!


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## AwDeOh (Mar 5, 2013)

Suitable said:


> Sweet! So it should sound fruitfully good then  If I do a good enough job that is... Cheers for the info!



Oh, don't think me - thank Wikipedia.


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## Necromagnon (Mar 5, 2013)

The tone of the wood, you shouldn't care. The aesthetics will be 4564 times more important that tone, specially when building our own guitars, and 1st btw. The luthiery is not so accurate that you can notice the tonal difference of wood (and even, I'm convinced that it's not possible to determine it...).
About maple, what means qld? It's "Queensland"? I thought it was "quilted"... If you can find on the Internet some info about its stability over time, and if it's subject to crack, it would be usefull.


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## Suitable (Mar 5, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> The tone of the wood, you shouldn't care. The aesthetics will be 4564 times more important that tone, specially when building our own guitars, and 1st btw. The luthiery is not so accurate that you can notice the tonal difference of wood (and even, I'm convinced that it's not possible to determine it...).
> About maple, what means qld? It's "Queensland"? I thought it was "quilted"... If you can find on the Internet some info about its stability over time, and if it's subject to crack, it would be usefull.



Yeah sorry I do mean Queensland maple (aussie slang). I have done a little research on it, Maton guitar use it all the time for their accoustics (they state its their no 1 choice for timber) so I think Ill be onto a winner in that regard. I got a call from my supplier today, he has a nice peice of 4.5"x4.5" there that will work perfect for a neck through and headstock in 1! I do want to split it though and have it a 5 peice neck just for extra strength. Asthetics wise well I just hope my skills are up for it! Time will tell... 

Thanks all for the info and support! Oh and the laughter


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## Necromagnon (Mar 5, 2013)

If it's already used, evenmore in acoustics (I've always thought there's even more requirements in acoustics, but I think it's just an impression), it will be perfect.

For the asethetics and skills: take you time. There's no rush (you're not Bernie  ), and you have tons of info everywhere (here, project guitar, stewmac videos, etc.), so there's no reason you'll mess up.


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## AwDeOh (Mar 5, 2013)

I'm with Necro on tone woods. Find something nice looking and go from there. Take this for example:

http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...tring-craftmanship-wreck-guitars-croatia.html

That guitar (before it was stained) is my bar for excellence. It could be made out of balsa wood and Brazilian MDF and I'd still get a hard-on just looking at it.


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## Suitable (Mar 5, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> I'm with Necro on tone woods. Find something nice looking and go from there. Take this for example:
> 
> http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...tring-craftmanship-wreck-guitars-croatia.html
> 
> That guitar (before it was stained) is my bar for excellence. It could be made out of balsa wood and Brazilian MDF and I'd still get a hard-on just looking at it.



Bloody stain!!!  :shakeshead: that axe looked awesome until he brought the stain out! 

The shape and neck through is pretty much bang on the money to what I have in my head! The 'horns' will be pushed out a bit more and the headstock will be a bit different, oh and the bridge etc... But that's pretty much it! Cheers for the link!

Ps. No bloody stain either


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## Suitable (Mar 11, 2013)

So this pile of timber is going to be my 1-2 7 strings.

The top piece is the blue gum I got for laminating the neck with. Its as close to quarter sawn as I could get (wish they had the next piece up but they sold that to some bloke to make something other than an axe out of )

What are your thoughts on it? I should be able to cut it at say 5 degrees on the table saw to get close to quarter sawn as possible... They will only be roughly 10mm wide so...






Any info will be great!

Cheers

Steve


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## AwDeOh (Mar 11, 2013)

Rip the pieces and flip them around to reverse the grain. Here, I'll demonstrate using highly detailed technical examples.

Your wood: ////

Once flipped: //\\


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## Suitable (Mar 12, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> Rip the pieces and flip them around to reverse the grain. Here, I'll demonstrate using highly detailed technical examples.
> 
> Your wood: ////
> 
> Once flipped: //\\



Where did you get that program to do that detail technical diagram? Have I missed a CAD update or something. 

So you reckon don't even worry about trying to get the grain vertical, just go square cuts n flip it? Would this give me a stronger neck? Its easy enough to cut it too the grain with the big table saw.


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## AwDeOh (Mar 12, 2013)

I'm not expert, but in the interest of minimizing wastage (assuming the wood was worth a bit) I'd just do the flip. What you're doing is creating opposing pieces, so if one tries to warp, theoretically the other should as well, and being oriented the opposite way, it should help cancel it out.

But like I said, I'm no expert. Keen to hear what the builders have to say.


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## Necromagnon (Mar 12, 2013)

AwDeOh said:


> I'm not expert, but in the interest of minimizing wastage (assuming the wood was worth a bit) I'd just do the flip. What you're doing is creating opposing pieces, so if one tries to warp, theoretically the other should as well, and being oriented the opposite way, it should help cancel it out.
> 
> But like I said, I'm no expert. Keen to hear what the builders have to say.


Same here. I've always done this, and told of it, and I got no problem. If you were doing a one piece neck, you should try to do what you where thinking about, but as it will be laminated, I see no problem.

Btw, this piece looks gorgeous!


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## Suitable (Mar 13, 2013)

Cheers all for the info! 

Its definitely nice looking timber! Should look nice when its all done and oiled up.


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## ElRay (Mar 17, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Not so easy with a neckthrough. You have to do 2 none parallele planes for fretboard joint and top surface, so that implies to have a regular angle on a very long distance. Thus, more chance to screw up. With a bolt-on neck, you make a flat heel, and then you make a small wedge with the angle. And if the angle is not good, it's really easy to unmount the neck and build a new wedge, while with a neckthrough...



I'm going to disagree with this. I've been thinking it through. Doing a long taper on large stock is much, much easier. Small angles are much easier to measure, etc. over large distances than small. All you'd need is a straight carrier board/sled, double-stick tape, line-up the two points, and slice. The tricky part would be to make sure you track the front edge of the blade *at the bottom* and stop before you slice into the neck. Plus, any flaws will be fairly easy to hide by sanding, creative contouring, etc.

To do an angled neck pocket, you'd need at least two (more likely four) small angle wedges, aligned side and back stops, etc. Routing a tight pocket is tricky enough for many, adding an angle just makes it tougher. If you leave the treble-side of the neck pocket open, and cut it before you lay-out anything else on the body, you'll make it about as fault-tollerant as possible. ALso, if you're going to be building multiple bodies, then making a good jig will have a big pay-off, but if you're not sure this is something you'll want to do often, then the making the jig will take far more time than the actual cut.

Ray


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## ElRay (Apr 9, 2013)

Here's a thread that might be useful: Cutting A Neck/body Angle On Through Necks using a Jointer - Solid Body Guitar and Bass Tutorials & Reference - Project Guitar Forum

Ray


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## Necromagnon (Apr 9, 2013)

ElRay said:


> I'm going to disagree with this. I've been thinking it through. Doing a long taper on large stock is much, much easier. Small angles are much easier to measure, etc. over large distances than small. All you'd need is a straight carrier board/sled, double-stick tape, line-up the two points, and slice. The tricky part would be to make sure you track the front edge of the blade *at the bottom* and stop before you slice into the neck. Plus, any flaws will be fairly easy to hide by sanding, creative contouring, etc.
> 
> To do an angled neck pocket, you'd need at least two (more likely four) small angle wedges, aligned side and back stops, etc. Routing a tight pocket is tricky enough for many, adding an angle just makes it tougher. If you leave the treble-side of the neck pocket open, and cut it before you lay-out anything else on the body, you'll make it about as fault-tollerant as possible. ALso, if you're going to be building multiple bodies, then making a good jig will have a big pay-off, but if you're not sure this is something you'll want to do often, then the making the jig will take far more time than the actual cut.
> 
> Ray


Yes, in fact, your right on those points. But about the angle on a bolt-on neck, it depends on how you do it. I was personnaly thinking (note I've never done one) about doing the regular neck pocket (that is not so hard), and then add little wedges on the bottom of the pocket, with the correct angle. The main advantage is that if you've screwed your wedge, you can always build a new one and replace it, while on a neck through, you're almost f*** up.

Also, on a neckthrough, it demands to have some machines to do it properly (well, if you're very handy, you can do it with a plane, but it's hard in that way), while on a bolt-on neck, you only need your router you've probably already bought for body and head contours.

Thanks for the link, also!


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## Suitable (Apr 9, 2013)

Cheers for all the posts, links and info! 

I have already started 2 of my builds, already laminated/glued 2 x 5 piece neck through necks. 1 Is going to be a hipshot bridge with a scalfed joint headstock, and the other is going to be a low 7 OFR bridge and droped inline head with a string tree. I won't need any angle on these necks because of the bridges I'm using, correct? If i were to go a TOM it would be different though yeah?

Cheers for the info!


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## VanDewart Guitars (Apr 9, 2013)

Just my 2 cents on what works best for me:

First thing you'll want to do is draw up a full scale plan of what you'd like. When I come up with a new design, I let it sit for a week or so, and then come back to it to make sure it looks EXACTLY how I want it. Make sure to do an accurate profile to make sure you have the action playable with the bridge you want, and what neck angle, if any, you'll need.

Brian had it dead on when he said (paraphrase) templates are your friend. The next thing I do is make templates. I make one for the fretboard taper (using full size front drawing taking into consideration string spacing at bridge and desired nut width), one for the headstock, one for the neck/body profile (taking into consideration truss rod depth), and one for each of the body wings; bass and treble, with control cavity.

Work on the neck first. I will cut the pieces close to shape, and route the middle piece to shape using the template before gluing the whole sandwich together. I then use the middle piece as the template to route the outside pieces to shape. Truss rod cavity next, then headstock and fretboard profiles. Route a cavity in the treble side to join the two pickup cavities, and you're done for now.

Next, you can cut the body wings to shape. If you are doing a different wood for the top, glue them together now. Route them using the template, route the control cavity in the treble side, then glue the wings to the body, using a straightedge across the top to make sure everything is level. I keep the cutoffs from cutting the rough shape out to use as cauls at this stage. After it's glued up, you can route for the pickups, and drill for the bridge and wires. At this point I go ahead and shape the heel. My heel is carved into the body, and it's easier to do it now. I will leave the rest of the neck square, though, to ease clamping on the fretboard later.

Next, I do the fretboard. I would get a board pre-slotted for your first build, as it's quite discouraging to put so many hours in and have a slight error render your efforts unplayable. Route to shape with the template, keeping center line in the... center. Radius it with planes and radius blocks and sandpaper. Fretting now is an option, just make sure it's not backbowing too much. I start with the 24th fret, and if it looks like the frets are compressing the board into bow, will glue it onto the neck before finishing fretting. Then glue it on, making sure to use cauls for the top and back of the neck to avoid marring wood with the clamps. 

Finishing, wiring, making a nut and installing the tuners is pretty straightforward at this point. You might consider assembly, wiring, and setting up before you finish, just to make sure all is gravy and you don't have to strip and refinish to resolve any small problems. Don't ask me how I know this...

Good luck, and welcome to our addiction!


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