# What's on your workbench?



## Walterson

Show us your actual projects!


Here is my current build, a 7 String, fanned fret, ergonomic guitar:












The first one with homemade Pickups, I hope this works out....

So, what's on your Workbench?


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## -Berserker_

Hello mate,

I have to say, im surprised after seeing your first build and now this... some drastic changes going on!! but strangely, i like it!!love that fretboard!!


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## veshly

Holy shit, strange contrast between medieval weapon and modern top secret aircraft. Very awesome.


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## UnderTheSign

Very Toone-esque! 

No guitar work going on here... Just a big ass elm table, a hallway cabinet and up until last week, a kitchen interior which is now off to the spray painter.

Back home, just practising carving.


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## AwDeOh

I'm not going to sully this tidy thread with my mess, but a bunch of different parts for different jigs I'm building. The main project is turning a small bench into a hydrid router planing/circular saw cutting, rail guided monstrosity.

Great thread idea Walterson


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## axxessdenied

Nothing really... in the process of getting a little corner set up in my basement!


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## ormsby guitars

Today is a big one....

Cut and slot 40 Indian Rosewood fretboards, for a school project where the kids get to build musical instruments.






Measure all details of this guitar, fresh new photos, and video for the 10th Anniversary Shark Series being announced this weekend. 











Chuck a finish on this one






and continue this one






Service these prior to leaving for an Australian tour.






Package up some merchandise to send off...






... which is made by this guy


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## ormsby guitars

oh, and right now Im taking a break on the computer...






...replying to fifteen emails from this guy...






... and giving the final go ahead on a song this guy wrote for me for the Shark Series announcement...






... who also is dropping this off today for a change back to the original pickups...







No rest for the wicked, they say


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## skeels

^ Dang, you busy!

I'm working on a fanned 8..





Milling some slabs for a 7...





Some other junk...





Couple necks for said 7 and 8...





And I'm wrapping up a 7 for which I have chronicled nothing. It's my third build- the Mark Two.


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## DaddleCecapitation

Walterson said:


> Show us your actual projects!
> 
> 
> Here is my current build, a 7 String, fanned fret, ergonomic guitar:



Best guitar shapes in my opinion:

-Superstrats
-V's
-This!


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## Necromagnon

On my workbench right now is tons of papers and books, and nothing else...
I want to go back and work! Your pics just make me so jalous...


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## Walterson

-Berserker_ said:


> I have to say, im surprised after seeing your first build and now this... some drastic changes going on!! but strangely, i like it!!love that fretboard!!



Thanks! That first build was my 10th...  maybe you overlooked those:

http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/st...-string-multiscale-many-pics.html#post3297251













veshly said:


> Holy shit, strange contrast between medieval weapon and modern top secret aircraft. Very awesome.



Thanks!



UnderTheSign said:


> Very Toone-esque!



Thats right. They are inspired by Rick...



ormsby guitars said:


> Today is a big one....



Man you are busy.... thanks for joining! I would love to see more of your work. Your build threads on the "Ultimate Guitar" Forum teached me a lot!


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## ormsby guitars

Walterson said:


> Man you are busy.... thanks for joining! I would love to see more of your work. Your build threads on the "Ultimate Guitar" Forum teached me a lot!



Thanks! I dont post very often on forums any more. I just get inundated with emails asking for help. And if you dont respond within a day, people get upset that you aren't helping them. 

I used to do up to 45 repairs a week, and I just couldnt keep up with repairs, building, and forums. Something had to go. Repair work has pretty much gone too... but I replaced that with the guitar making courses. I need another 5 hours a day.


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## teleofseven

well first off, i don't have a workbench  but if i did, there'd be tools... but no wood to dull them on. sadly.

wish i had the money to start my next planned builds: two 7 string tallman-esque geetaars, but the specs are just too darn expensive to start on. nothing extreme but swamp ash isn't cheap nor are the pickups and hardware i'm planning to use.

and my time in the army is coming soon so that'll keep me away from any woodwork until atleast january -2014  :/


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## OfArtAndArsenal

I could show you pictures of my garage full of junk with one depressing corner where my tools cower in fear, but eh...


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## OfArtAndArsenal

Walterson said:


>


 
Also, did you veneer the back of this headstock? I know you usually do, but that covers where the laminate layers continue through the headstock.


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## Walterson

ormsby guitars said:


> .....



I know what you mean.... to keep the business going is more important and one has to eat and sleep sometimes.

Is there a gallery of your recent builds somewhere that I might have overlooked?




OfArtAndArsenal said:


> Also, did you veneer the back of this headstock? I know you usually do, but that covers where the laminate layers continue through the headstock.



Nope, I didn't in this case. The neck laminates lined up perfectly (watch closely, maybe you'll see the glueline....) it would have broken my heart to cover that scarf joint under a stupid veneer....


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## ormsby guitars

Walterson said:


> I know what you mean.... to keep the business going is more important and one has to eat and sleep sometimes.
> 
> Is there a gallery of your recent builds somewhere that I might have overlooked?



Every time i'd update the website, I'd get more sales. So, I stopped 

Then facebook came along. I chuck stuff up there from time to time. Not too many finished guitars for some reason. Always on the 'to do' list.

https://www.facebook.com/ormsbyguitars


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## OfArtAndArsenal

Walterson said:


> watch closely, maybe you'll see the gluelike...



I can't! That's why I asked. Good work man!


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## axxessdenied

Went at it some more yesterday and secured my walls for the shelving better and built another bench! 
Now to organize (and figure out how I'm going to do that )








I've got a Dewalt planar as well I plan on building a stand for it on casters. Fun stuff  Finally putting some of these tools I inherited to good use


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## frank falbo

Parlor sized 7-String, 24" scale and tuned high, for one of our own SS.org members.


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## Walterson

ormsby guitars said:


> Every time i'd update the website, I'd get more sales.



There's a reason for that.....




axxessdenied said:


> ........



Man, thats going to be a nice working area!


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## rogerskevin

Currently nothing  No work to do!


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## axxessdenied

Walterson said:


> Man, thats going to be a nice working area!


Thanks! Just carried my drill press down there last night. It JUST cleared the ceiling 
Took it easy yesterday, going to put up shelving tonight after work!


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## Necromagnon

Walterson said:


>


The more I look to this picture, the more I like that volute... So incredible... 
And I found the glue line! What do I win?


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## axxessdenied

Necromagnon said:


> The more I look to this picture, the more I like that volute... So incredible...
> And I found the glue line! What do I win?





That headstock looks really sweet. How come you glued in that piece instead of having it one piece?


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## Walterson

axxessdenied said:


> That headstock looks really sweet. How come you glued in that piece instead of having it one piece?



Thanks! A scarf jointed headstock is way more stable than a single piece Headstock. There is a reason why there are so many Les Pauls with broken Headstocks out there.... and I'm penny pinching: I can make two scarf jointed necks from a neck blank large enough to make one single piece neck with angled headstock.

A neck with scarf jointed headstock may be way more effort to make, but saves resources and is more stable in the end.


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## axxessdenied

Walterson said:


> Thanks! A scarf jointed headstock is way more stable than a single piece Headstock. There is a reason why there are so many Les Pauls with broken Headstocks out there.... and I'm penny pinching: I can make two scarf jointed necks from a neck blank large enough to make one single piece neck with angled headstock.
> 
> A neck with scarf jointed headstock may be way more effort to make, but safes resources and is more stable in the end.



Thanks for the explanation! I'm going to start building my own axes once I get things set up down in my basement. Knowledge++


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## Necromagnon

Walterson said:


> Thanks! A scarf jointed headstock is way more stable than a single piece Headstock. There is a reason why there are so many Les Pauls with broken Headstocks out there.... and I'm penny pinching: I can make two scarf jointed necks from a neck blank large enough to make one single piece neck with angled headstock.
> 
> A neck with scarf jointed headstock may be way more effort to make, but saves resources and is more stable in the end.


+1
The grain orientation on a single block headstock is not parallele to the face of the headstock. So, when the headstock suffer a pinch or anything on the head, you tend to force on delamination of the wood, instead of just bending (i.e. traction+compression). Also, Gibson's head are easily taken of because of the lack of volute.

But Walt, on this guitar, you made the joint pretty far from the volute, don't you? It won't breack anytime because of the laminate + wenge + wenge thick veneer on top, anyway.


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## helferlain

On my workbench today: LEGO parts! Successfully tried to use them as routing templates for cavities. Now its easy to create some exact matching covers...


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## PrestigeFan92

helferlain said:


> On my workbench today: LEGO parts! Successfully tried to use them as routing templates for cavities. Now its easy to create some exact matching covers...




Wat????  I dont even....  :slow clap:



Very nice, good sir, very nice. :continue slow clap:


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## OfArtAndArsenal

Whuuuuuuu???


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## AwDeOh




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## CD1221

mother of god.

I have always loved lego. No way would I have thought of THAT !

respect.


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## helferlain

I would not recommend it for daily use. But its nice to have something to create perfect matching master templates. As long as you can live with the typical raster.

The kid I borrowed the parts from asked what I want do do with. After telling I need it to build guitars he ordered one ...


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## OfArtAndArsenal

Elaborate. Now.


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## Necromagnon

Very nice! I was always searching some way to make master templates for square shape and simple stuff like that! Brillant!


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## DistinguishedPapyrus

ormsby guitars said:


> Measure all details of this guitar, fresh new photos, and video for the 10th Anniversary Shark Series being announced this weekend.



Coolest Les Paul I've ever seen!!! awesome finish and shark hole!


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## skate




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## anthonyferguson

A fan 9 string bass for a fellow SSorger


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## Walterson

anthonyferguson said:


> A fan 9 string bass for a fellow SSorger



We need more pix.......


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## Navid

skate said:


>



So good.


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## Walterson

Glued in the neck and started to rough sand....





Neck / body joint at the 14th fret = bad access to the higher frets?

No way:


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## pondman

Your work is so precise and tidy Walt.


Not a lot going on my bench right now apart from neck blanks and a Santos and Pomelle body.


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## skeels

Right now, I am working on taking a neck apart.

Kind of the opposite of what I would like to be doing, but I am learning a valuable lesson. Be very, very careful or you will have to tear things apart in order to salvage what you can!

And I was so happy with the way this volute was coming out!






Truss rod rout went a mm too deep towards the scarf and being so thin, cracked while I was shaping the profile. 

Saved the fretboard, rod and headstock- I think - but the neck may be destined ffor the burn pit in favor of a new one.

We see all these nice pics of beautiful, well crafted instruments, I thought I would switch it up a bit and show the ugly, train-wreck side of luthiery. 

If I can't be a shining example, I can serve as a horrible warning!


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## mikenothing

Ibanez RG7421 with a RG7621 Neck. I am carving the horns. Body + headstock will be painted flat white and will have all black hardware and white pickups.


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## mikenothing

Agile Interceptor pro 727 I bought for 80 bucks. Needs refret and had a botched stain job. I sanded it down and reshaped the headstock. Still needs new frets, maple cap for the headstock, and will be finished with danish oil.


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## Walterson

skeels said:


> Truss rod rout went a mm too deep towards the scarf and being so thin, cracked while I was shaping the profile.



That sucks! Thanks for showing. It reminds us to leave at least 3-4mm of wood between the back of the neck and the truss rod....

I got some work done too - finished my first set of pickups:






Wired and wax potted:





I made them from sratch, because I couldn't find 7 String bobbins with the right string spacing and they are slanted which made thinks a little more complicated...

Test fit:




The guitar got 2 coats of oil, next is some wet sanding and another coat, hopefully the last one.


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## OfArtAndArsenal

What kind of oil are you using, Walt?


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## Walterson

OfArtAndArsenal said:


> What kind of oil are you using, Walt?



Some trade secrets need to be kept.... 

But I'll give you a hint: it's an polymerising hard oil used for the sealing of floors normally. It dryes/polymerises within 24hours, builds a film very fast and becomes quite hard. It's almost like a lacquer...


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## RobDux

This isn't really on my workbench unless virtual workbenches count, but a fanned 7 string I've been planning for a while.



nodc fanned 7 by rob_dux, on Flickr



nodc fanned 7 render by rob_dux, on Flickr
I still need to work out a headstock I like but I should be able to start on it once I've finished off a single cut and Tele I'm making.



Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr



sym sc2 hh by rob_dux, on Flickr



Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr



floyd tele by rob_dux, on Flickr


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## OfArtAndArsenal

Walterson said:


> Some trade secrets need to be kept....



Ohhh so that's how you're gonna be...


Fine then I'll just keep all my...uh...secrets to myself too. Yeah. Take that...


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## skeels

This is my secret.













Ok. I don't have any secrets.

That's not even my shop....


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## Walterson

Almost done.... the nut / nut slots need some more tweaking and I'll have to work on that neck pickup, the lower bobbin needs to be moved a little towards the bass strings.

This is/was my most complicated build so far. I need to build something easy now to relax... another Blackmachine copy maybe?  just kidding....


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## pondman

Walterson said:


> Almost done.... the nut / nut slots need some more tweaking and I'll have to work on that neck pickup, the lower bobbin needs to be moved a little towards the bass strings.
> 
> This is/was my most complicated build so far. I need to build something easy now to relax... another Blackmachine copy maybe?  just kidding....



Beautiful . I used to hate these guitar shapes but now I just get the whole idea.


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## demonx

This is the last "workbench" pic I posted on my facebook page. Seems I need to shoot an updated one


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## Walterson

Started a new Build.... made a neck blank yesterday.






Enough clamps? 

I did some planing to day and damped the wood a little for the picture:





Ovangkol has some crazy grain lines.... I'll let this blank settle for a while. It's thick enough for two 7 String guitar necks with scarf joints.


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## AwDeOh

Can't wait to see what you come up with this time. What's the plan for it?


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## UnderTheSign

Elm table... Special project, all from the same log which has been watered for ~ a decade and lumber has been cut by a 17th century style wind powered mill. The top is prettier than the underside, I promise... Hah.


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## Webmaestro

Dammit, screw this apartment-living crap. I want a workshop >.<


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## skeels

^that is beautiful! 

Wait. Is a table some kind of guitar?


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## skeels

Webmaestro said:


> Dammit, screw this apartment-living crap. I want a workshop >.<



You just need an apartment with an attic or basement!


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## skeels

Compound angles. Because I screwed up the neck I had before! 







Myrtlewood and walnut. Also, lions. Well, one lion anyways.





Some maple(s), asian ebony and bloodwood...















Also, necks... To bind or not to bind? It would be a first...


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## Walterson

AwDeOh said:


> Can't wait to see what you come up with this time. What's the plan for it?



Something to relax, the last build felt more like an geometric exercise than lutherie.... I have a super strat shaped Korina Body left from a former project and wanted to use that for an 7 string build with a slightly longer scale length (26,125"). Some more specs: set neck with a long "box joint" neck tenon, Sperzel Locking tuners, Hipshot Bridge, EMG 707s, a very dark Rosewood fingerboard, offset Abalone dots, the body will be painted flat black....

This is the body shape:









UnderTheSign said:


> Elm table... Special project, all from the same log which has been watered for ~ a decade and lumber has been cut by a 17th century style wind powered mill.



Nice wood! Why was it watered for so long and how was is possible to dry it without developing cracks?


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## Manurack

Here's my work environment, I just finished soldering the electronics back together in my Modded Fender Stagemaster 7 string, and I'm currently working on my buddy's Les Paul SG Custom, transforming it into a sweet metal machine!


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## AwDeOh

Walterson said:


> Something to relax, the last build felt more like an geometric exercise than lutherie....



Good. I have no love for your ergonomic guitar, since I was taken aboard it and experimented on.


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## UnderTheSign

Walterson said:


> Nice wood! Why was it watered for so long and how was is possible to dry it without developing cracks?


Elm is generally watered for a long time as it changes the sapwood colour to be more similar to the heartwood and increases durability a lot. There were cracks in the boards but nothing too deep. Watering the wood causes the minerals and nutritients in the wood to solve in the water which actually causes the wood to be less prone to cracking while it dries.


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## Walterson

Still a little rough, but it's coming together....


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## forshagesan

Bolt on necks


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## ormsby guitars

This week: 

Finished the setup, and shipped this to Italy:











Finished this one, and posted to Sydney, Australia.















Finished this one, for Canberra, Australia.










Inlay in Tahitian Black Pearl and Mother of Pearl, to match a previous shirt/jacket design I used to use.











Processed some quilt tops for the Anniversary models...





Got these two ready for delivery on Friday to Los Angeles:




















Also got the V on the right ready for setup...






Completed a relic restoration on a 1968 Les Paul Custom






...and fitted the machine plates to the Eugenics guitar:










Plus:
wound and assembled 19 humbuckers (regular, blade, and single coil sized blade humbuckers, plus a couple six string bass pickups), 1 single coil, and two noiseless singles.
Stainless steel refret on a PRS, four setups, two fret levels/polish, a compensated bone nut for a Les Paul, reset an acoustic's neck, two complete rewires, finished up a gibson headstock break..... then dug two soakwells, mowed 800m2 of lawn, and lost 4.5 kilos!

Not bad for 74 hours in the last seven days. Now for a month off!


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## Necromagnon

I think I will definitely stop looking at this thread...
Also start my kazou lessons...


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## Pikka Bird

@Ormsby: This is totally brilliant use of those signature sharks!


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## ormsby guitars

Pikka Bird said:


> @Ormsby: This is totally brilliant use of those signature sharks!



Wait until you see the 10th Anniversary guitars


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## Pikka Bird

^Well, I _am_ waiting to see those, in fact... And I realize they're probably going to be some sort of testament, or "showcase" if you will, of what you are capable of doing, but I assume you'll show some restraint so they won't look like something out of Pimp My Ride?


As for my own workbench, I guess there's mainly this, which will be some sort of metal-styled Tele with a one-piece swamp ash body:





Reshaped a pickguard to make a slightly larger cutaway (laid on top of a regular cut pickguard to show the difference):





Closer shot of the almost finished bevel, still need to re-cut the neck pickup hole to fit a mini-bucker:





This shall be the neck (with an ESP-style pointed headstock). It's a 3-piece maple/mystery wood/maple affair with a scarf joint which I hope to hide tastefully behind two pieces of veneer, like on the J.Custom headstocks:




This neck was an exercise in economy, as I really wanted to get two quartersawn necks out of one flatsawn Fender-style blank, so the thicknessing was a challenging ordeal. I think I ended up within acceptable limits, if I can stay wise when shaping the rest.

The whole thing will have a trans black stained top, natural back and sides, matching headstock and white binding all around. Fretboard will be blank ebony. Tummy and forearm cuts will be included too, in a sort of sleek, modern way.


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## Necromagnon

Pikka Bird said:


>


Dude, if it was the same (unique) pickguard, it would rock! This double curve on the cutaway is really sexy! It gives some nice ideas...


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## immortalx

Too much p0rn in this thread 

I'm building this for a friend


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## Necromagnon

Closer pic of the inlay needed!


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## immortalx

Here it is but I'm not too satisfied, it seems inlays are not my thing


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## forshagesan

That looks really good! It ain't easy inlaying into maple


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## Pikka Bird

It's FAR from the worst we've seen, so don't kill yourself over it. And in any case, your dissatisfaction will probably serve as motivation to improve your craft rather than just saying "Meh, good enough" (even if it is actually "good enough" in many builders' eyes) and carrying on without so much as a shrug.


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## forshagesan

Going to start wetsanding this today:


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## celticelk

^^^^ Guh. *blink* *wipes away drool*

...you do those in 7+ strings, right?


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## Necromagnon

immortalx said:


> Here it is but I'm not too satisfied, it seems inlays are not my thing


If you don't like it, I can help you get rid of this neck. I give my adress in pm.



It looks freaking nice seen from here, really. And as said, inlaying into maple ain't an easy thing. And also, if you're not satisfied, go look at Gibson's or PRS inlays, it will warm up your heart. 



>


I like the color, but I really don't like those ergonomic shapes... :/


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## technomancer

celticelk said:


> ^^^^ Guh. *blink* *wipes away drool*
> 
> ...you do those in 7+ strings, right?



Yes, yes he does. That blue looks killer


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## celticelk

...dammit. Now I have to start fantasizing about what a doom-jazz Forshage ERG would look like. #fwp


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## Cabinet

Mahogany sides to a finger style acoustic


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## mwcarl

Neat to see everyone elses work. I've got five on the go at the moment, gonna have to start trying to sell them now, I can't keep them all anymore...


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## AwDeOh

Looking awesome man, loving the top on the second to last pic. It's beer o'clock here so my sight is a little off - do I see veneer in between some of the wenge/maple strips in the laminate necks?


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## Thrashmanzac

this is on my (very messy) workbench at the moment. I'm waiting on some new router bits so i can get cracking on the neck and other cavities


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## Necromagnon

>


I really dig this neck! AWE-SOME!


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## mwcarl

AwDeOh said:


> Looking awesome man, loving the top on the second to last pic. It's beer o'clock here so my sight is a little off - do I see veneer in between some of the wenge/maple strips in the laminate necks?



Nope, no veneers in those ones, just the dyed black veneers in the maple-padauk one.



Necromagnon said:


> I really dig this neck! AWE-SOME!



Thanks!


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## Valennic

Man you guys make me feel fuckin lazy 

All I've got is a few rewires lined up, and a couple setups. Nothing fantastic. I need to get building .


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## jarnozz

nuf said!


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## AwDeOh

mwcarl said:


> Nope, no veneers in those ones, just the dyed black veneers in the maple-padauk one.



Love it.

What wood did you use for the veneer in the maple/padauk?


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## forshagesan

jarnozz said:


> nuf said!



REALLY love that headstock!


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## anthonyferguson

Marching swiftly on


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## forshagesan

This went down yesterday/today. This body weighs 2 lbs 3 ozs.


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## Necromagnon

>


Who! How many strings on that beast? It looks freaking wide!
In two weeks, I should be able to post some pics in here.


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## AwDeOh

^ The girls must love the guy with fingers long enough and agile enough to play that thing.


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## Necromagnon

AwDeOh said:


> ^ The girls must love the guy with fingers long enough and agile enough to play that thing.


Didn't they told you it's not a matter of size?


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## patata

anthonyferguson said:


> Marching swiftly on



The shape is super interesting.Waaaay too many strings though.


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## anthonyferguson

Necromagnon said:


> Who! How many strings on that beast? It looks freaking wide!
> In two weeks, I should be able to post some pics in here.



9. And yeah it is a lot! Not for myself though, for a guy on here. I hope he's been doing finger exercises!


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## OfArtAndArsenal

^ Infinite radius? What is the scale on that monster?


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## anthonyferguson

OfArtAndArsenal said:


> ^ Infinite radius? What is the scale on that monster?



Compound; 24" to almost infinite. So more or less yeah! Scales are 34.5"-31.5"


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## patata

anthonyferguson said:


> Compound; 24" to almost infinite. So more or less yeah! Scales are 34.5"-31.5"



Does the neck dives?


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## forshagesan

Monster bass is awesome!
Finished this today:


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## skeels

I, too, like the monster bass.


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## KhzDonut

Here's a couple guitars I'm building for some friends of mine. They're modeled after a prototype 7-String I built myself awhile back.





Here's a stained alder version of the same prototype, which I've dubbed the "Street Walker" because it's in a flashy red, and I was planning on sending it to a few people for testing and reviews, get some feedback before I do anything crazy like try to sell them.





Here's a refinish I'm doing for a guy. It was stained brown before, and I had to sand it all back and re-stain it, but it turned out 95% the same color-wise so he should be pretty happy with it. The old finish I did for him was a polymerized tung oil that just didn't feel quite right. (totally my fault) I'm pretty sure it just cured incorrectly in the cold, wet, Washington winter. Now that it's summer and I'm using a pure tung oil, I'm hoping it will turn out a bit nicer. It's a tung oil I'm more familiar with and have gotten good results with in the past, so... Yeah. Time will tell.





I've also got this old Warmoth LP from back in the day. Originally I had a crummy clearcoat job I did myself, which turned out less than awesome. I had it refinished by Jim Jaeger in a sweet metallic emerald, which this picture does NOT do justice. The fretboard is taped off (that's why there's so much blue tape) because I'm about to re-refret it. The original fret job left something to be desired, and the subsequent levelings didn't really make things super awesome (it was my first time! I was a fret leveling virgin and I was naive! It told me it wouldn't hurt! It lied! IT LIED!!!)

Some day... I will have this stupid thing back together in its entirety. For now, it sits on the bench. Waiting... Watching... Plotting.......





If you count my Computer and CAD programs as part of the workbench, then I've also got this brewing: Did I hear someone say "Fanned Fret 34-37 Jaguar/Jazzmaster-Style 5-string Bass?" 'cause that's what I totally made in CAD


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## Purelojik

Man its been a while since i've posted! i've been hangin out at luthier talk lately.


here's whats happening with my project from my blog.

Lutherie... | How hard can it be?

Just recently made a bass for a friend of mine. More of a half commission. his sister asked me if she could by the first bass i made so i said if it turned out well then sure.

Here you have it:

Link: Jormugandr Lives | Lutherie...

Pics:
















And My personal Semi-Hollowbody 26 scale 6 string:
















I have the wordpress App for my iphone so i update the blog from there. If i have time i'll make a thread here but these are good for now.


----------



## anthonyferguson

patata said:


> Does the neck dives?



So far so good, I hope the hardware doesn't spoil it. If not I have a plan...


----------



## Pezshreds

Purelojik said:


>


 
Oh my word, that finish is incredible.
Kind of makes me want to buy it and change from gutiarist to bassist haha


----------



## Cabinet

This will be the neck
Making it by hand


----------



## skate

8-String


----------



## Walterson

Man, I wish I could spend as much time on building guitars as Perry does.... ~6h a week is all I can spend.


----------



## AwDeOh

Walterson strikes again!

Veeery clean build, mate. Where to from there?


----------



## Walterson

AwDeOh said:


> Walterson strikes again!
> 
> Veeery clean build, mate. Where to from there?





Thanks!

The guitar is only rough sanded for now, I'll sand her through the grits over the next days and send her to my lacquerer then....


----------



## Stompmeister

She's comin' along.


----------



## Cabinet

Some band sawing, drilling and sanding later...


----------



## forshagesan

This one is now officially done. Can't tell from looking at it but it has a Graphtech Hexpander 13 pin midi out.


----------



## Stompmeister

^^ Holy mother of duck thats nice. Tops man!


----------



## forshagesan

Thanks!


----------



## celticelk

Purelojik said:


> Here you have it:
> 
> Link: Jormugandr Lives | Lutherie...



Better not put that bass in the same band as the guy with the Daemoness with the Thor's hammer inlay. =)

Love the shape on that semi-hollow!


----------



## pondman

Purelojik said:


> Man its been a while since i've posted! i've been hangin out at luthier talk lately.
> 
> 
> here's whats happening with my project from my blog.
> 
> Lutherie... | How hard can it be?
> 
> Just recently made a bass for a friend of mine. More of a half commission. his sister asked me if she could by the first bass i made so i said if it turned out well then sure.
> 
> Here you have it:
> 
> Link: Jormugandr Lives | Lutherie...
> 
> Pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And My personal Semi-Hollowbody 26 scale 6 string:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the wordpress App for my iphone so i update the blog from there. If i have time i'll make a thread here but these are good for now.



Beautiful work on those and I liked your blog on wipe on Poly.
Excellent


----------



## CD1221

Technically not my workbench, but it was taken on my desk at work...


----------



## HaMMerHeD

5 strings. 19mm spacing. passive pups and controls. walnut, mahogany, maple, rosewood. Circle K balanced .136 strings.


----------



## helferlain

ready for assembly and setup


----------



## Walterson

helferlain said:


> ready for assembly and setup



Interesting shape! How does is balance? Where did you buy that ABM Bridge and how do you like it?


----------



## helferlain

Walterson said:


> Interesting shape! How does is balance? Where did you buy that ABM Bridge and how do you like it?



shape and balance: taylored to my needs. Feels very comfortable in various positions. Let's meet and check yourself, as soon as you have finished your Strandberg...

ABM bridge: got it from a pro luthier. But I think you can orderer directly at ABM. The qualtiy is high end for the bridge itself, but as I experienced with some other ABM parts, the mountion screws are low quality. I've boght some matching stainless steels srews for mounting.

It's a very heavy bridge with a noticeable positive sustain influence.


----------



## Cabinet

My friend introduced me to a much more time effective way of calculating the string spacing for the nut of the guitar.

If you make your own, you might benefit from this.

After setting up the outside E strings to proper spacing from the outside of the fingerboard, measure the total distance from the inside of the strings. We'll call this X.

Take your A D G and B strings and find the diameter of each, add those variables together. This will be Y.

Subtract Y from X, then divide that number by 5. You will get the exact measurement you need between each string.

Bad. Ass.

Maybe we should make a thread about little tips and tricks like this.


----------



## mwcarl

Progress


----------



## Walterson

mwcarl said:


>



A Makassar Ebony neck?


----------



## The Spanish Inquisition

Nothing yet, but I'm getting a custom neck made by a good gentleman and I'm going to make a body this summer. All assebled myself, my first project. I'm not making the neck myself because of it being hard and it'll be my first build, and I want it to turn out well. I'll start making my own necks when I have the time for it and on a somewhat cheaper project. 

Any tips on starting out on a first build?


----------



## Necromagnon

YJGB said:


> Any tips on starting out on a first build?


Do everything yourself. 

Really, the neck is not really the most difficult part, imo, but it's by far the greatest one, the most enjoyable. Working on the neck shape by hand is really pleasant. For the body, it's "just" a template, a router and a copying bit. There's nothing else to say, except: make very small passes, and be carefull of the rotation of the bit vs the direction of the movement = always work (when possible) in opposition (the rotation of the bit try to push the router to you, not pulling it out from you).

But I think there're some topics about it around here. I'm almost sure I saw a thread with many advices on how to use a router.


----------



## muffinbutton

Necromagnon said:


> But I think there're some topics about it around here. I'm almost sure I saw a thread with many advices on how to use a router.


 
Any time scherzo builds something?


----------



## muffinbutton

Cabinet said:


> My friend introduced me to a much more time effective way of calculating the string spacing for the nut of the guitar.
> 
> If you make your own, you might benefit from this.
> 
> After setting up the outside E strings to proper spacing from the outside of the fingerboard, measure the total distance from the inside of the strings. We'll call this X.
> 
> Take your A D G and B strings and find the diameter of each, add those variables together. This will be Y.
> 
> Subtract Y from X, then divide that number by 5. You will get the exact measurement you need between each string.
> 
> Bad. Ass.
> 
> Maybe we should make a thread about little tips and tricks like this.


 
Plus one for a tips thread.


----------



## mwcarl

Walterson said:


> A Makassar Ebony neck?



Yup, I found a couple blanks and decided to give it a try. It's heavy and hard as hell, but it rings really nicely. The dust is powdered death, not looking forward to using my second blank for another neck.


----------



## muffinbutton

mwcarl said:


> Yup, I found a couple blanks and decided to give it a try. It's heavy and hard as hell, but it rings really nicely. The dust is powdered death, not looking forward to using my second blank for another neck.



Where the hell do you get ebony neck blanks? and how much are they?


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## mwcarl

muffinbutton said:


> Where the hell do you get ebony neck blanks? and how much are they?



Well wood is just wood, so as long as you find a plank that has the right size, grain orientation, has no structural problems and is well seasoned/dried you're good to go. I think the blanks were listed as being intended for resawing into fretboards, but the sizes were right so I bought them for use as necks. I think they were around $80 each and I found them on eBay.


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## OfArtAndArsenal

Necromagnon said:


> But I think there're some topics about it around here. I'm almost sure I saw a thread with many advices on how to use a router.


 
http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...izations/196229-self-made-tools-jigs-etc.html

I'll just leave this here.


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## OfArtAndArsenal

mwcarl said:


> ...not looking forward to using my second blank for another neck.


 
You can give it to meeeeeeeeeeeeee...


----------



## forshagesan

7 string set-neck maple mahogany tele:


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## Purelojik

oh yeeeeaaaahhh


----------



## BlackMastodon

^Quit hanging around Luthier Talk and come back here. We need to see more of your builds.* 


*By that I mean that I need to live vicariously through you and your builds.


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## Purelojik

for you i'll start a thread here. its been a while anyways. so once i get sme more progress i'll post the pics on a new thread !


----------



## mwcarl

Been working a bit on the headless guitar


----------



## pondman

Got a humongous plank of Pomelle Sapele 14 foot long x 15" wide x 2.5" thick .I cut these slabs on my workbench . I saved the extra long bit for Skeels to make his one piece 10 string flying V 



And a very large Maple board.



I only went for some decking boards for a job . Some guy had ordered these last year and never picked em up so I got these nice n cheap.


----------



## Cabinet

Yes, I'm building an arch top.




Fun fun fun D:


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## Walterson

Well, it's not my workbench, but my last build beeing lacquered.... got some progress pictures yesterday.... 
















Blackburst on Korina, what do you think?


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## Necromagnon

Walterson said:


> Blackburst on Korina, what do you think?


I can't think right now. Please leave a message, I'll call you back later...


----------



## Carver

this thing, neck through rock maple, with swamp ash wings. Fretboard is cut and ready to go. Should have the truss and fb on there in the next day or two. then its p up routes and bridge work.


----------



## Cabinet

Initial spraying on my arch top is done 













This will be the saddle


----------



## ChAoZ

I have this on my workbench ,7 string explorer style ,maple/mahogany neck and mahogany wings.also have a pickup made by Artisan Guitar Electronics to my specs-15.8k, blade polepieces ,mismatched coil windings and alnico8 magnet


----------



## The Spanish Inquisition

Nothing, because the woodshop turned out to be closed


----------



## Cabinet

Almost there!




Next up is just installing the hardware, doing the pickguard and wiring, final wet sand and buff, gluing the neck.

Not in that order


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## XxJoshxX

I decided this thread needed a bump


----------



## Necromagnon

You've fretted the fb before gluing it on the neck? 
That's a bit risky, imo. It didn't bow at all?
This zebrano top looks nice, btw.


----------



## ormsby guitars




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## pondman

My workbench extends indoors these days


----------



## Bassassasin

[http://www.directupload.net/file/d/3555/f5yaz5p3_png.htm

]




This is now on my Workbench (first only with Scrapwood).
The biggest Problem is the FF fixed Bridge with Finetuners and the Lockingnut


Specs:
26,5-25,5" scale
27 frets
Selfmade Bridgeplate (Carbon fibre) with Edge Pro saddles and Lockingnut
Necktrough
Pickups:Lace X/Deathbar
Wiring: 1Volume, Killswitch 3way Switch


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## DredFul

Bassassasin said:


> [http://www.directupload.net/file/d/3555/f5yaz5p3_png.htm
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is now on my Workbench (first only with Scrapwood).
> The biggest Problem is the FF fixed Bridge with Finetuners and the Lockingnut
> 
> 
> Specs:
> 26,5-25,5" scale
> 27 frets
> Selfmade Bridgeplate (Carbon fibre) with Edge Pro saddles and Lockingnut
> Necktrough
> Pickups:Lace X/Deathbar
> Wiring: 1Volume, Killswitch 3way Switch



This seems interesting


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## Bassassasin

DredFul said:


> This seems interesting



I am pleased to read.

This is the heaviest build i ever made.
Only the planning and investigation for the Bridgespecs (material, angle, radius to fit with the Edge-Pro-Saddles, look and the angled lockingnut) cost me over a half of an year.
Now it´s the third prototype version in wood (cheap scrapwood from my local supplier), now with a real bridge and (hopefully) WORKING Lockingnut and it´s not the last till the finished One

If it was not my dream guitar, i would so never build


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## XxJoshxX

Necromagnon said:


> You've fretted the fb before gluing it on the neck?
> That's a bit risky, imo. It didn't bow at all?
> This zebrano top looks nice, btw.


Thats actually the neck for the 8 string Im building, and the fretboard is glued to the neck.


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## BlackWidowESP

Cabinet said:


> Almost there!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is just installing the hardware, doing the pickguard and wiring, final wet sand and buff, gluing the neck.
> 
> Not in that order



Galloup school! I went there in 2012, had a blast. I play my archtop every day.


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## Necromagnon

XxJoshxX said:


> Thats actually the neck for the 8 string Im building, and the fretboard is glued to the neck.


The neck is well hidden, then.


----------



## Walterson

New home build guitar day soon.........


----------



## mister V

I am preparing for the next build. The evolution of the line of prototypes (_the last one, #3, you can see here_). At this stage I am working with my secret super-hi-tech headless technologies


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## Purelojik

damn those iwasaki rasps used in conjunction with the microplanes really made quick work of this. 























since it was a flat top I first considered just doing that blackmachine chamfer but its so overdone and just lacks the class that I once though it had. Then i saw Knarbens (luthier talk) sweeping bevel and wanted to do the same. Mines not quite as full but i think its just what i need.


----------



## Pikka Bird

^Those kinds of lines just rule my world, I gotta say. I too am fed up with the BM bevel, and have been for a loooong time. Especially when people don't bother to blend it into the waist.



mister V said:


> At this stage I am working with my secret super-hi-tech headless technologies



An Ikea clamp as a zero fret?


----------



## ChAoZ




----------



## mister V

Pikka Bird said:


> An Ikea clamp as a zero fret?



Damn, how did you know that? 

Well, I don't have any money to buy a headless hardware for the new build at this moment, so your suggestion is not too far from the truth - I am planning to make all hardware by hand. 
The idea for tuners is ready and passed the tests, and it is not what you see on these photos - on pics it is just the first attempt, the "1.0 version". Now it is time to make a prototype of the locking nut. For the guitar I can just take a floyd/kahler nut, but I need a nut for 4 string bass (shhhhh, it does not mean that my new project is a headless 4 string bass, not at all).


----------



## RobDux

Currently got my first through neck and headless going at the moment.



No way this could go badly


----------



## pondman

Now that looks very promising.


----------



## pondman

How many stamps does it take to post from Nicaragua ?










I did a quick gulp when I opened these


----------



## skeels

A-ha! ^


----------



## DredFul




----------



## Walterson

RobDux said:


>



Really nice design! A cool "mixture" between a single an a double cut.

I'm working on my first neck through build. Some local woods again: Cherry and Maple combined with a not so local Bubinga Fretboard....






27" Scale length, carbon fibre reinforced neck....


----------



## Coreysaur

Walterson said:


> I'm working on my first neck through build. Some local woods again: Cherry and Maple combined with a not so local Bubinga Fretboard....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 27" Scale length, carbon fibre reinforced neck....




Why you don't make full build threads anymore? They were so amazing.


----------



## Walterson

Coreysaur said:


> Why you don't make full build threads anymore? They were so amazing.



The steps how I build a guitar are pretty much the same every time. I do not want you to get bored... 

To be honest, I do not have the time at the moment. Build threads are very time consuming, easy 30-45Minutes per post(!). Take pictures, edit them in Lightroom, resize them for the web, upload, write post and so on.

I like to use this time to work on guitars instead...


----------



## joshuallen

On my workbench now is... a typewriter desk I'm building for myself. 

But then back to my seven string.

Next on the menu I am going to build a basic bass guitar.


----------



## RobDux

pondman said:


> Now that looks very promising.





Walterson said:


> Really nice design! A cool "mixture" between a single an a double cut.


Thanks for the kind words.

More progress on the headless, now ready for shaping and contouring. Only messed up the back of the "headstock" a little.


Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr


Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr
And a quick mock up with some parts.


Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr


----------



## JonusGrumby

Go ahead and laugh--it is kinda funny.
But sometimes ya just need something different. I love cigars. I have one with a glass of scotch every evening. I also love cigar boxes, and have a nice collection. I recently got onboard over at Cigar Box Nation and decided to combine my two favorite things: guitars and cigars.
these sound pretty cool, too. They can get pretty knarly when plugged in.
This is my first one.


----------



## Purelojik

JonusGrumby said:


> Go ahead and laugh--it is kinda funny.
> But sometimes ya just need something different. I love cigars. I have one with a glass of scotch every evening. I also love cigar boxes, and have a nice collection. I recently got onboard over at Cigar Box Nation and decided to combine my two favorite things: guitars and cigars.
> these sound pretty cool, too. They can get pretty knarly when plugged in.
> This is my first one.




dude thats actually ....ing awesome!


----------



## Purelojik

I get the results from my last medical board exam i took three months ago on wednesday and needed to blow off some steam and ease my anxiety, so i went to the downtown artist space here in downtown LA and made some shit happen.

trued up the sides of the neck for my roasted maple build. and routed the neck pocket for the burl maple (will be in the main thread).
Here's the progress on the roasted maple . Next step is to radius this damn thing... if anyone has an easier way to radius i'd love to hear it.


----------



## pondman

Have a happy spalted Easter


----------



## XxJoshxX

Just came off of the bench


----------



## Purelojik

I hate radiusing fretboards. Im buying pre slotted pre radiused from now on. just dont see the point anymore...


----------



## pondman

That last pic is very seductive.


----------



## pondman

Btw why do hate radiusing so much ?


----------



## Purelojik

pondman said:


> Btw why do hate radiusing so much ?



because it just takes me forever lol (i know im whiney). my arm hurts afterwards and the process itself isnt anything enjoyable. also i end up having to deepen the slots and stuff too. Pre radiused boards just need some finish sanding and bam you're good to go and get on with the project.


----------



## pondman

Purelojik said:


> because it just takes me forever lol (i know im whiney). my arm hurts afterwards and the process itself isnt anything enjoyable. also i end up having to deepen the slots and stuff too. Pre radiused boards just need some finish sanding and bam you're good to go and get on with the project.


Have you tried locking the neck in a Workmate and getting right above it so all your body weight is on the radius block ? 
It takes me around 15 min to do even a Wenge or Padauk neck .
I do heavy duty work for a living though so maybe that makes a difference.

Back on topic... those necks look superb.


----------



## Purelojik

pondman said:


> Have you tried locking the neck in a Workmate and getting right above it so all your body weight is on the radius block ?
> It takes me around 15 min to do even a Wenge or Padauk neck .
> I do heavy duty work for a living though so maybe that makes a difference.
> 
> Back on topic... those necks look superb.



if im at my parents place i have my workmate but sadly since i spend most of my time in my apartment i do most of my work on the floor on an old bedsheet, or clamped to a chair lol. its really ghetto but since i only spend time in the shop using big tools, I do all the small stuff and glueing and sanding in my apartment. the neighbors just think i vaccuum a lot lol.


----------



## Metallipea

Hi!

You all share some awsome stuff, thought I share some parts of my projects...

Cavity plate with simple add-on 





Some Pickup rings from ebony and padouk someone?









Simple strat body building:










And some Tele porn:





Best wishes and many happy hours in the workshops to you all!

Maiko Saluorg


----------



## immortalx

Talking about fretboard radiusing, i hate it too, so i made this jig/machine.
Hopefully someone will find it useful :












It works like a drum sander but there's a build in radius on the drum. I just raise the hinged table underneath after each pass.


----------



## charlessalvacion

^^nice!


----------



## BlackMastodon

Dude, holy shit that's awesome! Did you buy the drum or did you have to put the radius in yourself?


----------



## Prophetable

Forgive the motion blur, but you get the idea.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

RobDux said:


> And a quick mock up with some parts.
> 
> 
> Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr



Cool build, Reminds me of this Scott French build with the Steinberger tuners...


----------



## immortalx

BlackMastodon said:


> Dude, holy shit that's awesome! Did you buy the drum or did you have to put the radius in yourself?


Thanks man, it was turned on the lathe with a 16" radius.


----------



## skeels

immortalx said:


> Thanks man, it was turned on the lathe with a 16" radius.



That is awesome! I am so totally going to stare at this and wish I had one and then go back to hand sanding my boards for hours on end.


----------



## immortalx

Nothing fancy here, just your regular superstrat


----------



## Purelojik

immortalx said:


> Nothing fancy here, just your regular superstrat



god damn thats hot, is that tru oil?


----------



## Purelojik

So today i got some work done. I fretted both necks and shaped the headstocks. These are lookin goods. With some mineral spirits they look fantastic.

Burl maple: 20in radius Pau ferro
Roasted Maple: 16in radius Dark black and purple indian rosewood


----------



## Neilzord

immortalx said:


> Nothing fancy here, just your regular superstrat



Looking awesome. Are they Luminlays on the front of the board? I dont think so, But they look kind of similar just larger! 

If they aren't they still look awesome. and if they are... then I can't to see this guitar in some darkness. 

Liminlays on the front would be bad ass!


----------



## immortalx

Purelojik said:


> god damn thats hot, is that tru oil?


Thanks man, yeah it's tru oil!
Wow, i dig that headstock shape of yours and those necks look fantastic!



Neilzord said:


> Looking awesome. Are they Luminlays on the front of the board? I dont think so, But they look kind of similar just larger!
> 
> If they aren't they still look awesome. and if they are... then I can't to see this guitar in some darkness.
> 
> Liminlays on the front would be bad ass!



Thanks man! The dots are just alumimium tube and the black core inside is just regular plastic rod.


----------



## Metallipea

immortalx said:


> Nothing fancy here, just your regular superstrat



Like your style


----------



## Mr_Metal_575

RobDux said:


> Thanks for the kind words.
> 
> More progress on the headless, now ready for shaping and contouring. Only messed up the back of the "headstock" a little.
> 
> 
> Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr
> 
> 
> Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr
> And a quick mock up with some parts.
> 
> 
> 
> Untitled by rob_dux, on Flickr


 
Are you using headless hardware or conventional one? Looks truly amazing. I've discovered a new p0rn thread. I hope to join in the next times.


----------



## BlackMastodon

immortalx said:


> Nothing fancy here, just your regular superstrat


Nothing fancy my ass, that's one hot ass super strat. Love the inlays and the work looks really clean! Also, bitchin' blanket/covers you got there.


----------



## Walterson

Getting there slowly:





















It took a little longer because I had to build this:






A "Neck Jig", I allways wandered what this thing is about. The Idea is to true the fretboard / level the frets under simulated string tension. A poor mans plek machine. Some state they wouldn't do a singe fret dress / refret without it, others say it's overkill.... we'll see soon... 











I'll do an extra thread when I have used it...

This is how it works:

http://avhguitarrepair.com/repair-blog/so-whats-in-a-fret-dress/

http://www.strangeguitarworks.com/the-inside-scoop-on-the-neck-jig/


----------



## JonusGrumby

THANKS!!!


----------



## TylerRay

I've got a few, but this one has been the focus for the past few days.


----------



## immortalx

Wow man, i can't imagine how many hours of work you put into that!!!
Simply awesome


----------



## TylerRay

immortalx said:


> Wow man, i can't imagine how many hours of work you put into that!!!
> Simply awesome




Thanks! About 15 hours so far. Still have to epoxy them in, which can be a slow process beings you have to set like 3-5 pieces at a time in order to keep up with the epoxy set time lol. I also put the last two dots on the wrong fret, but that's an easy fix. Definitely a few more hours left..


----------



## XxJoshxX

The beginning of my Fanned fret nylon string


----------



## KGINDI7

An all hand tool build. Not clean yet. Needs loads of work


----------



## UnderTheSign

Got offered some free laburnum... Ended up trading it for a 7,50 bottle of port. Excellent local alternative for rosewood etc though this one is a tad lighter, might darken up over time. Big branch, sawed it into 12mm thick slices. Might become dovetailed boxes, accents or fretboards 





All stacked up again, current MC ~14% so it'll be all good in a month or 6!


----------



## jarnozz

XxJoshxX said:


> The beginning of my Fanned fret nylon string




I am doing the exact same thing xD build thread will follow once I gathered wood for the body and neck. I am too picky at that


----------



## XxJoshxX

jarnozz said:


> I am doing the exact same thing xD build thread will follow once I gathered wood for the body and neck. I am too picky at that


Acoustics are so much different than electrics, I feel like I'm learning everything all over again. I was going to try some crazy stuff, but decided that I wanted to keep it pretty simple. Check out this place, their website is pretty slow and annoying, but their prices are great and have quality wood.


----------



## DredFul

Dat heel


----------



## jarnozz

Not really an option for a EU fellah! haha thanks anyway  My build will be crazy though! The bridge will be the toughest part. Ordered the neck woods today. 5 piece wenge maple with a flamed maple cap and still unknown body wood Since I'm still looking for something nice. Oh and the bridge and fretboard will be made out of bloodwood!


----------



## XxJoshxX

jarnozz said:


> Not really an option for a EU fellah! haha thanks anyway  My build will be crazy though! The bridge will be the toughest part. Ordered the neck woods today. 5 piece wenge maple with a flamed maple cap and still unknown body wood Since I'm still looking for something nice. Oh and the bridge and fretboard will be made out of bloodwood!



My bad! Bloodwood always looks good as a fretboard, as long as its red enough. Have you thought about gold frets. I believe Tosin's 8 string acoustic had a bloodwood board with gold frets and it looked pretty cool.


----------



## XxJoshxX




----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

^ Whoa, love that neck heel


----------



## Purelojik

These two are wrapping up!


----------



## UnderTheSign

Small presentation and discussion on guitar neck ergonomics tomorrow. Half an hour, a drawknife, spokeshave and some scrap wood. Next up is a test of the Endurneck profile done the same method...


----------



## pondman

Chanced upon a hoard of Waterfall Bubinga boards 









And some nice Engish Ash to the left.


----------



## callankirk

Walterson, you should do a review of the neck tensioner system! I'm curious if it is truly necessary, or simply one of those "it's nice to have" kinda things. 

Here's what I'm starting with this weekend. Baritone 6'er tele. One piece swamp ass- I mean *ash* - body, curly maple/mahogany neck, mora fretboard (no pic yet). Should be fun. Buddy I'm building it for wants a vintage/aged finish...maybe go with some Re-Ranch stuff and bang 'er up a bit.

Sorry about the instagram'd pic. All I've got for now.


----------



## Purelojik

oh baby


----------



## immortalx

Man I love those contours, pure awesomeness 
Did you tint the tru-oil or stained first?


----------



## Purelojik

immortalx said:


> Man I love those contours, pure awesomeness
> Did you tint the tru-oil or stained first?



thanks buddy, nope its what happens when you put oil over roasted maple! the it looks like i stained it brown and sanded back and applied an amber stain all in one. its an awesome wood to work with and it smells like maple syrup and pancakes


----------



## Walterson

callankirk said:


> Walterson, you should do a review of the neck tensioner system! I'm curious if it is truly necessary, or simply one of those "it's nice to have" kinda things.



I'll let you know when I got the guitar back..... 

I sent it to the guy who does the paint for me a week ago.


----------



## Purelojik




----------



## immortalx

Purelojik said:


>


Cookies and chocolate comes to mind. I love that grain man!


----------



## Taylor

Purelojik said:


> thanks buddy, nope its what happens when you put oil over roasted maple! the it looks like i stained it brown and sanded back and applied an amber stain all in one. its an awesome wood to work with and it smells like maple syrup and pancakes


----------



## Purelojik

This builds wrapping up. Starting on a another as well!


----------



## XxJoshxX




----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

Purelojik said:


> This builds wrapping up. Starting on a another as well!



Now that is a bolt-on neck joint!


----------



## eddiewarlock

This:


----------



## pondman

Took this big old Plum tree down this week. It should have some serious Burl on that big old gnarly graft above the stump.
This is now on my weird timber stash pile and will be on my workbench in a few years


----------



## immortalx

Poor tree fell into the hands of Sandman. Whenever he finds wood, he wants to *sand* it


----------



## DraggAmps




----------



## BlackMastodon

^Classy as fk


----------



## DraggAmps

BlackMastodon said:


> ^Classy as fk




Thank you so much sir!


----------



## Experimorph

TylerRay said:


> I've got a few, but this one has been the focus for the past few days.


You, sir, are a god among luthiers.


----------



## JuliusJahn

Build thread in my signature....lots of sanding in my future.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

DraggAmps said:


>



Is that top arched at all? can't quite tell by the pics...


----------



## XxJoshxX

It looks like a radiused top like those Mayoneses (spl?)


----------



## DraggAmps

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Is that top arched at all? can't quite tell by the pics...



Nope, it's completely flat. Just looks a little radiused in the pics for some reason.


----------



## Purelojik

Some stuff im working on at the moment. 















the top picture is that burl maple top i posted earlier, the other two are figured imbuya over korina. it smells like pepper and sands and machines really really well. it also seems to become more complex in pattern the finer you sand it.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

This is what's on my workbench. 





5 piece maple and wenge lams for a neck. Barely scratched the surface on this build so far but this is what I've got. Looks hideous but it'll eventually be a 7 string. I havn't fully decided on the body shape yet. I havn't even started a build thread yet. I thought about doing something similar to and inspired by this guitar but now I'm kinda leaning toward doing a 7 string stratocaster or similar super strat type shape.


----------



## Renkenstein

I've been lurking for a while and haven't contributed much to the forum yet. I've got a couple build threads going on other sites. Thought I'd just drop a couple pics here.










6 string all maple/mahogany build. Hard maple neck with 'hog lams and a curly maple fretboard. Top is curly maple with a scraptastic 7 piece 'hog back. Been working on this for 3 months.


----------



## thatguyupthere

ormsby guitars said:


> Today is a big one....
> 
> Cut and slot 40 Indian Rosewood fretboards, for a school project where the kids get to build musical instruments.



I know this post is old. And sadly I have nothing to contribute because I have no idea how to build a guitar, though I wish I could.

But can anyone elaborate for me why the RW fretboard in the middle-ish is blue and green?


----------



## BlackMastodon

Renkenstein said:


> I've been lurking for a while and haven't contributed much to the forum yet. I've got a couple build threads going on other sites. Thought I'd just drop a couple pics here.
> 
> 6 string all maple/mahogany build. Hard maple neck with 'hog lams and a curly maple fretboard. Top is curly maple with a scraptastic 7 piece 'hog back. Been working on this for 3 months.


Dude! Links? Or copy build threads over here so I can rep while I drool?


----------



## XxJoshxX

BlackMastodon said:


> Dude! Links? Or copy build threads over here so I can rep while I drool?



I gotcha
Renk - Siren Build Thread - LuthierTalk.com


----------



## Renkenstein

Thanks Josh. Thanks for the interest, BlackMastadon. My imgur album for that build is here: Siren Build - Imgur

The imgur album is ahead of the build thread.


----------



## metaldoggie

Renkenstein said:


> Thanks Josh. Thanks for the interest, BlackMastadon. My imgur album for that build is here: Siren Build - Imgur
> 
> The imgur album is ahead of the build thread.



Dude.....just read through that build and the LP thread......nice work!
The Siren is a great looking guitar.


----------



## UnderTheSign

thatguyupthere said:


> I know this post is old. And sadly I have nothing to contribute because I have no idea how to build a guitar, though I wish I could.
> 
> But can anyone elaborate for me why the RW fretboard in the middle-ish is blue and green?


Because rosewood sometimes looks like that. For guitars usually the 'perfect' looking pieces are used but that's only a small part of the actual log.


----------



## Renkenstein

metaldoggie said:


> Dude.....just read through that build and the LP thread......nice work!
> The Siren is a great looking guitar.




Thank you sir. Been doing the best I can...learning a lot.


----------



## pondman

Renkenstein said:


> Thanks Josh. Thanks for the interest, BlackMastadon. My imgur album for that build is here: Siren Build - Imgur
> 
> The imgur album is ahead of the build thread.



Wow, excellent work ! That looks amazing.


----------



## Renkenstein

Pondman likes my work. 

I'm not worthy! 

Thank you sir! Huge compliment.


----------



## pondman

Got a few neck blanks leveled tonight.


----------



## immortalx

Oh no. A few? A FEW??? 
That's some incredible stuff you have there


----------



## tssb

pondman said:


> Got *a few* neck blanks leveled tonight.



This should help :
few :fju
determiner, pronoun, & adjective
determiner: few; pronoun: few; adjective: few; comparative adjective: fewer; superlative adjective: fewest
1. a small number of.
"may I ask a few questions?"
synonyms:	not many, hardly any, scarcely any; More
a small number, a handful, a sprinkling, one or two, a couple, two or three;
2. used to emphasize how small a number of people or things is.
"he had few friends"
synonyms:	not many, hardly any, scarcely any; More
scarce, scant, scanty, meagre, insufficient, negligible, in short supply;​
Seriously though, nice work


----------



## XxJoshxX

So... 16 neck guitar?
The fifth from the left has the most vibrant purpleheart I've ever seen


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

Those going into some of the bodies you posted a while back Pondman?


----------



## Primitive Guitarist

4th neck in from the right (the brown one) is mint as looking, keen to see what it goes on


----------



## Renkenstein

This thread doesn't get nearly the traffic it deserves.



 

I sprayed and wiped 8 coats of Tru-Oil over 3 days and left it to dry for 24 hours. I got a pack of 1500 grit and a bottle of lemon oil. I wet sanded with the lemon oil and the sandpaper, then moved to a cotton shirt and lemon oil. Buffed it out really good by hand and we've got this. It's not lacquer mirror shiny, but it's plenty good for my tastes. I'd call it a nice satin gloss. I'm going to let this cure for 3 more days and see if I can't press in some frets.


----------



## pondman

Blue1970Cutlass said:


> Those going into some of the bodies you posted a while back Pondman?



Yeah, most of those are for the OOTS stuff. Its going to be a long journey


----------



## helferlain

quick an dirty spray can jig:

















first layer of primer


----------



## Renkenstein

Drilled and mounted my first bridge ever. Not too shabby.


----------



## Renkenstein

Sanded through 400 today. Wiped with naphtha




This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 2048x1536.

 

I sanded with random MDF blocks and a pink eraser.





This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 2048x1536.

 



This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 2048x1536.


----------



## Ajb667

Pondman, what do you do with all the guitars you build? Do you build them for friends, or all for yourself? 
Either way I'm jealous of hell. You build seriously great stuff.


----------



## Renkenstein

Off my workbench, and into my arms! I gave her a pre-finish test run. 




 
Strung up. Marked and slotted the nut with my HF Japanese pull saw, and widened the slots for the bass strings with a small triangle file. With the zero fret, the nut just needs to hold the string in place.




 

Success!!!! Construction complete! She plays beautifully. Zero fret buzz as it sits. I may go lower with the action after finishing and a truss rod adjustment. As a player I've never measured my action height, but I'd say I like it in the range of 3/32" to 1/8" at the 12th fret. I have a heavy right hand and anything lower than that clicks, clacks and scratches out. I like a high tension 52ga string (56ga if I'm tuned to C standard) on the bottom with plenty of room for it to vibrate. This girl played like one of my gigging guitars(Ibanez, Schecter) without any adjustments. Stoked.


----------



## metaldoggie

She's a beauty!
Patrick, what's your woodworking background?
Too good for a first guitar! Devilry!


----------



## Renkenstein

Thank you, metaldoggie!

Woodworking background is 1 year of shop when I was in 7th grade. I got a 107% in that class. Hahaha

Aside from that, I was raised by a jack-of-all trades that was often in his workshop. Any time he was in there, I was in there nailing together whatever scrap wood hit that floor. When I was a teen, there was an issue of Popular Mechanics that had a "Build an Electric Guitar" article with complete plans of a Tele. As you can imagine, I BEGGED my father to attempt this with me. He must have been intimidated by the task because it never happened.

I did a lot of drafting in high school, and right out of high school I was working as a mechanical drafter. I then went into graphic design and embroidery digitizing. 

Back in '97, I met a local luthier operating under the name Pendragon Guitars. He had thimble full of blood leading back to King Arthur or some shit. Anyway, I met this cat at a guitar show and I was enthralled. He used a lot of laminated necks and fancy veneers with these wild BCResque shapes. He even had a violin that he carved the scroll to look like a dragon's head. Beautiful stuff. I asked the dude if he took on apprentices and he said no. Long story short, dude hit me up before I left the guitar show and offered to let me in his shop and start on my own guitar neck. That never got finished either.

I never really did any woodworking in my adult life aside from the brief adventure at Pendragon(dude's basement), because of a lack of tools and a room to build in. A year and a half ago, we moved into a nice place with plenty of room and I hit the ground running.

Sorry for the elaborate backstory on random SSO member #1,687,123. I'm just happy to be here and thrilled to have good feedback. Once the fingers get typin, it's tough to stop em.


----------



## Renkenstein

Oh, and I've been at this for just over a year now. 2 abortions and a stalled LP later, I started and finished this one. So it's my first completed construction, but not my first attempt by any means. I butchered a lot of wood to find the right process that works for my humble shop and equipment.


----------



## metaldoggie

Renkenstein said:


> Sorry for the elaborate backstory on random SSO member #1,687,123. I'm just happy to be here and thrilled to have good feedback. Once the fingers get typin, it's tough to stop em.



No it was a cool story, thats why i asked.....thanks for sharing.
If we were at the pub we'd be talking over a pint.....this is our cyber local lol

My dad is actually a drafter turned mechanical design engineer so I grew up with very tool out there. He built me 2 guitars in my teens and the woodworking was kind if instilled along the way (along with motorbikes and pcs).
I move to the states but then didnt really do anything until I bought a house, and started amassing tools.
I've been wanting to build for ages but I just got a bandsaw this year and a much better router and actually had some time to start thinking about it.

I am a designer too....although I do photography and graphic design, I mainly design textures and graphics for interior automotive formable skin material.

Good to meet you and I look forward to seeing you finish it.

-Simon


----------



## Renkenstein

Likewise, man! Sounds like we've got similar backgrounds, and you're destined to be a builder as well. 

Man, when I got my 14" band saw, and my Ridgid belt/spindle sander, shit got REAL. My dad and I also built a drum thickness sander that has proven to be fkn GOLD, esp when getting tops level and neck stringers perfect. I got the design on woodgears.ca


----------



## Renkenstein

I don't mean to dominate this thread or anything. I'll make threads for my next builds. They get pretty lengthy. 






2nd coat of Tru-Oil all over.


----------



## mathloss

Congrats it looks beautiful!!!


----------



## JEguitars

I have a lot on my bench, but this is one I am doing for myself. The inlay is specific to my line (I'm also a Registered Nurse). It took me FOREVER to come up with it. I hate dot inlays, and everything else I could think of was already taken.

I also have my own scale lengths. I've applied for the patent on it but that takes forever. 

I do all my stuff by hand. Except the fretboard, I get those CNC'd.

Top: Flame Maple
Body: Curly Black Limga
Neck: Pernambuco
Fingerboard: Brazilian Rosewood


----------



## TuffyKohler

Making a lefty for a buddy, and the righty is for me. 

Lefty has a curly redwood top, and the right has an ash top. I'll have to dig up pics of the tops, and the necks that go with them.


----------



## helferlain

sketching a new poti knob design:
- see and feel the poti adjustment of the guitar
- solid metal. no plastic
- set screw. 
- fits all types of poti shafts from 6.0 mm to 1/4 inch 
stainless steel or platet steel


----------



## Dcm81

Just finished Iceman Project with a walnut top:





And currently in progress my first ever attempt at building something out of wood.......it's supposed to be a guitar


----------



## callankirk

Just finished up a neck-through Bass VI for myself. Have it to drop D with Circle K 106-24's. Sounds ballsy & grungy! Got the Fender vintage noiseless pups for free off of a buddy of mine and decided to do the VI because, let's be real, I haven't played a strat since I was 14 

Have a baritone tele 6'er and a semi-hollow ES-335 coming up next, then another 7 for myself!

Sorry about the instashit photos. Still waiting on my brother to take some pics with his 60D.


----------



## immortalx

Keep it coming people, I love this thread!


----------



## Renkenstein

Natural light is always good. Don't get much of that in my guitar dungeon.


----------



## callankirk

Renkenstein, VERY clean work dude! Mad kudos!!!


----------



## metaldoggie

Can't wait to see it finished!


----------



## Jim666

Bit of an oddball here.

One solid piece of soft maple
24" scale
Neck 2" wide at the nut (rosewood fretboard)
Plan is to dye red, with a black pickguard


----------



## UnderTheSign

Torzal twist? Nah, too simple..


----------



## JEguitars

This is my pile of work. Sorry for the crappy in the dark phone pic. 





I need more orders though. I love building guitars and putting a smile on someones face. Nothing better than watching someone jam out on one of your creations.


----------



## Neilzord

TuffyKohler said:


> Making a lefty for a buddy, and the righty is for me.
> 
> Lefty has a curly redwood top, and the right has an ash top. I'll have to dig up pics of the tops, and the necks that go with them.



What do you call that kind of Jack cut-away? I've been searching on google all sorts of phrases and can't come up with anything! 

I want to know because It Looks awesome & would keep the lead out the way nicely! Good work!!


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

UnderTheSign said:


> Torzal twist? Nah, too simple..


----------



## XxJoshxX

Blue1970Cutlass said:


>



Why ask what it is? We all know the really important question...
Will it Dj0nt?


----------



## immortalx

Made this and brought it home to ask wife her opinion. She briefly looked over her shoulder and continued washing the dishes  
They will never understand


----------



## XxJoshxX

Heres my current school woodshop project, which doesnt really capture the shape too well. The lower horn is not that long and skewed.




With a little bit of water on the top, this is a really nice piece of cherry but i really want to try a trans black meshuggah style finish


----------



## Solodini

Keep it oiled and sexy, for the love of Frank!


----------



## Purelojik




----------



## 8STRINGS

Made some wooden knobs for the first time






Here's a banjo fretboard I was working on at my day job. I bet there aren't a lot of banjo-related pics being posted here in the den of metal 






Headplate and matching truss rod cover


----------



## neun Arme

^^Looks awesomme, dude!


----------



## mwcarl

Maple leafs? Awesome. Also the truss rod cover inlay continuity, looks great.


----------



## MikeK

Have a few things going right now that I might make a full thread for later.

Roasted maple neck, ebony fingerboard, white binding. Replacement neck for an RG8.






Black Limba Tele and 8 string body blanks






Wenge/Black Limba 8 string neck thru and bolt on Tele necks 






Claro Walnut top for the Tele






Burled Maple top for the 8 string. This is after a few coats of hardener to stabilize the wood.


----------



## celticelk

My first workbench project! Just stained the body and headstock of the DeArmond S67 I'm refinishing. Next will be a couple coats of Formby's, followed by a new bridge and pickups - hopefully I can keep from completely botching the assembly and setup. I'm hopeful so far!


----------



## 8STRINGS

Hey guys, forgot to mention that I'd like to make some wooden knobs for anyone who is interested. If you have a build you're working on and have some scraps from your top to make some matching knobs let me know. You pay shipping, I'll make you some cool knobs. Oh, and promise to take some good pics of your completed build with the knobs for me! 1/4" straight shafts only. Pm me for deets


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

8STRINGS said:


>



Damn dude, those leaves are stunning


----------



## Solodini

Purelojik said:


>




Love that headstock.


----------



## Purelojik

Almost done!!


----------



## pondman

That is absolutely stunning


----------



## Neilzord

^^ What he said. 

That looks amazing.


----------



## immortalx

Purelojik said:


> Almost done!!
> *[porn pics]*


I'm done too! Had a premature ejaculation with what you posted


----------



## celticelk

Purelojik, your shit just rocks, man. Great woods, great shapes, fantastic carves.


----------



## Pikka Bird

Yeah, you're getting pretty good, man. Did you ditch the thumbnail headstock logo idea?


----------



## Purelojik

Pikka Bird said:


> Yeah, you're getting pretty good, man. Did you ditch the thumbnail headstock logo idea?



Thanks guys for the kind words!

I'll attach the logo on the headstock when its all done. the reason i didnt make a build thread for this was because a friend of mine expressed an interest in buying this after it was done. Its not a done deal or anything (cause i kinda want it lol) but i didnt wanna run the risk of violating any rules. My personal builds i put in the lutherie section as build threads. Its pretty fun looking back and seeing the first build thread i put here till the most recent. I learned pretty much everything i know from stalking threads here and bugging other builders.


----------



## neun Arme

Purelojik said:


> Almost done!!


Me wants!!!


----------



## Necromagnon

Pikka Bird said:


> Yeah, you're getting pretty good, man.


+1
You've made such progress, I'm jalous...


----------



## Pikka Bird

Purelojik said:


> I'll attach the logo on the headstock when its all done.



Great. I think that logo is an awesome touch. And it's a nifty signature flourish that would set you apart if you decide to take orders at some point.


----------



## Purelojik

Pikka Bird said:


> Great. I think that logo is an awesome touch. And it's a nifty signature flourish that would set you apart if you decide to take orders at some point.



thanks pikka! means a lot to me!


----------



## Renkenstein

Killin' it, Alex!!! I love that build.


----------



## immortalx

Not too much time lately, but i managed to carve this thing and prepare a neck blank for it. Thinking about carving the heel too.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

So many awesome looking builds on this thread... heres what I'm currently working on, this is my second build: poplar body, maple/wenge neck... still a couple months from the finish. I'm gonna try to paint the body on this one.


----------



## Neilzord

@immortalx - Holy shit. That's lovely.


----------



## canuck brian

I just installed a set of Nordstrand humbuckers into a 20th year Anniversary PRS - awesome guitar and sounds insane now.

Working on bringing a BRJ into playable condition after the owner managed to retrieve it before the entire mess went off the books.

Dropped a Suhr Doug Aldrich humbucker into an RGA121.

Wired up a Carvin DC800 with a Pegasus/Sentient combo.

Fixed up some fretwork on a Mexican Strat...

I'll grab some pictures of the PRS - it's exceptionally tasty.


----------



## Necromagnon

I'd like to see it. Even it costs 3 1/2 limbs to get one, it's still pretty much awesome guitars...

Immortalx: I dig both front and back carves!
I need to take some pics of the state of the current builds, always forget to do so...


----------



## TemjinStrife

canuck brian said:


> I just installed a set of Nordstrand humbuckers into a 20th year Anniversary PRS - awesome guitar and sounds insane now.
> 
> Working on bringing a BRJ into playable condition after the owner managed to retrieve it before the entire mess went off the books.
> 
> Dropped a Suhr Doug Aldrich humbucker into an RGA121.
> 
> Wired up a Carvin DC800 with a Pegasus/Sentient combo.
> 
> Fixed up some fretwork on a Mexican Strat...
> 
> I'll grab some pictures of the PRS - it's exceptionally tasty.



Ooh, Aldrich in RGA will probably sound sweet


----------



## canuck brian

Necromagnon said:


> I'd like to see it. Even it costs 3 1/2 limbs to get one, it's still pretty much awesome guitars...



The price he paid for this almost made me cry. He basically scored it for the price of an SE.


----------



## celticelk

So much hotness in this thread!


----------



## Necromagnon

canuck brian said:


> The price he paid for this almost made me cry. He basically scored it for the price of an SE.


Whaaaaaaaaaat?!


----------



## XxJoshxX

School woodshop project again




First attempt at a scarf joint




A bit of an accident at the belt sander. Won't be playing for a while.


----------



## DredFul

@Josh
Oh shit dude  Hope it heals up swiftly

Edit: the build looks cool too  that's some sweet looking wood. What you got there?


----------



## BlackMastodon

Yeah belt sanders are pretty unforgiving, as you no doubt know by now.  Hope it heals up quick and you can get back to the build! The scarf joint looks good by the way, did you use the ol' nail trick to line up the pieces?


----------



## Deegatron

Josh, chicks dig battle scars... tell them you got into a knife fight with a biker in mexico... he got your finger tip... but you got his ear... (buy ear on ebay to authenticate story and keep in jar in your living room as a center piece/conversation starter)


----------



## HearGear




----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

XxJoshxX said:


> School woodshop project again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First attempt at a scarf joint



Luckily it doesn't look like it got all the way through the skin, but still looks painful, I pray it heals quickly for you to get back to playing!


----------



## skeels

^^^^^ yeah. ... skeels does not like this....


Heal quickly!


----------



## XxJoshxX

DredFul said:


> @Josh
> Oh shit dude  Hope it heals up swiftly
> 
> Edit: the build looks cool too  that's some sweet looking wood. What you got there?





BlackMastodon said:


> Yeah belt sanders are pretty unforgiving, as you no doubt know by now.  Hope it heals up quick and you can get back to the build! The scarf joint looks good by the way, did you use the ol' nail trick to line up the pieces?





Deegatron said:


> Josh, chicks dig battle scars... tell them you got into a knife fight with a biker in mexico... he got your finger tip... but you got his ear... (buy ear on ebay to authenticate story and keep in jar in your living room as a center piece/conversation starter)





DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Luckily it doesn't look like it got all the way through the skin, but still looks painful, I pray it heals quickly for you to get back to playing!





skeels said:


> ^^^^^ yeah. ... skeels does not like this....
> 
> 
> Heal quickly!



Thanks for the concern guys, it did go all the way through the first layer of skin and the little white part went even deeper, I was pretty worried that there may be nerve damage or something considering there was basically no pain at all and there never was, which would obviously be pretty shitty when im trying to play. Luckily, two days have gone by since then, its already looking a lot better, and starting to hurt (yay no nerve damage). According to the doctor, I should be back in business in a week or teo.


----------



## immortalx

Ouch, I know that feeling man and i hope it heals soon!
But don't listen to the doctor... According to the Home Remedies Association you should put it in a "warm hole" (doesn't have to be yours) for 5 mins everyday and trust me, you'll feel way better


----------



## Necromagnon

Outch. I feel the pain up to there. Hope it heals nicely.

My actual work (I remembered to took a few pics, so here they're): The second version of the MM Petrucci like for my buddy, and the soloist, both checking for nut/fb/bridge alignment


----------



## immortalx

At last man! They both look gorgeous, very clean work


----------



## BlackMastodon

Really like the inlay on that soloist. Simple, but it looks great!


----------



## spn_phoenix_92

Necromagnon said:


> Outch. I feel the pain up to there. Hope it heals nicely.
> 
> My actual work (I remembered to took a few pics, so here they're): The second version of the MM Petrucci like for my buddy, and the soloist, both checking for nut/fb/bridge alignment


Dat ziricote


----------



## Necromagnon

BlackMastodon said:


> Really like the inlay on that soloist. Simple, but it looks great!


You want the truth? The design is from an IKEA furniture.  
Thanks guys. Wanted to work a lot more today on those two but changing a light bubl on my car appeared to be way longer than expected...


----------



## Knarbens

Pickups came in for my chambered headless FF 7-string build. A DiMarzio Ionizer Set.


----------



## immortalx

^ Dis gonna rock


----------



## immortalx

Not technically on my workbench but still...
I won "Tool of the week" on http://www.homemadetools.net/ for my radius drum sander (it should be a few pages back) and received this cool official T-shirt!







And I've been working on this lately





It's a one piece zebrawood top on mahogany body and rosewood neck


----------



## Neilzord

Is it going to be called the Extra Terrestrial or something ???


----------



## immortalx

Neilzord said:


> Is it going to be called the Extra Terrestrial or something ???



Haha, thanks man! I was running out of ideas for a name


----------



## Necromagnon

F*ck. You remind me of how bad I want my own workshop... :'(


----------



## pondman

This weeks acquisitions.



P1000369 by 

Fir Burl.

[url=https://flic.kr/p/qmgUUb]

DSC_0157 by

P1000371 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/people/128113482on 

Tamo ASh.



Middle one is Camphor Burl.


----------



## Renkenstein

pondman said:


> This weeks acquisitions.



I say GOT-DAMN!!!


----------



## Necromagnon

I really dig that tamo ash. Already seen some in my veneer shop, didn't have the occasion to buy one (I'm trying to heal from my compulsive wood-buying addiction  ). I'd really like to see how it pops out with the finish on.


----------



## ChAoZ

Just getting the final set-up dialed in on this, my latest build


----------



## Prophetable

ChAoZ said:


> Just getting the final set-up dialed in on this, my latest build



Who make those bridge pieces? Fine tuners? Much good.


----------



## MikeK

Is that the kind of wood you kind find locally Pondman? If so, I am truly envious.


----------



## ChAoZ

Prophetable said:


> Who make those bridge pieces? Fine tuners? Much good.



I made a prototype out of Aluminium and then had a local machine shop make them for me out of steel ,no fine tuners - I just like the feel of floyd saddles for palm muting


----------



## Prophetable

Oh, I had a stupid moment and thought the bottom poles were fine tuners... I have multiple floyd guitars, too...

I'm just going to go hang myself now in shame.


----------



## Pikka Bird

^Well, they're made from actual Floyd saddles, so I can see why you'd be confused.


----------



## immortalx

I had my goofy moment today...
I pressed the frets in and then I realized I forgot to route and glue the inlay...Doh! So i proceeded with my patented "Doitthehardway" method 









Sorry for the crap phone pics


----------



## pondman

MikeK said:


> Is that the kind of wood you kind find locally Pondman? If so, I am truly envious.



No, I have to travel far and wide. I'm kind of a wood hunter extraordinaire


----------



## Deegatron

immortalx said:


> I had my goofy moment today...
> I pressed the frets in and then I realized I forgot to route and glue the inlay...Doh! So i proceeded with my patented "Doitthehardway" method
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the crap phone pics


 
I REALLY like this inlay... that's very cool.


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

Deegatron said:


> I REALLY like this inlay... that's very cool.



Agreed


----------



## Purelojik

its been a while, moved back home and now back at it!


----------



## sehnomatic

Finished some resawing and some spray recipes.


----------



## Purelojik

This ones all done! on its way to Joel for fretwork, then i get to play it and take lots of HQ pics. 

here's the before and after Odies oil, butter and wax





Here's the assembled pics


----------



## ChAoZ

[/URL][/IMG]
Zebrawood fretboard for a Paduak SG style I'm building - will have 24 Jescar gold frets on a 24.75" scale length


----------



## Neilzord

Purelogic - Holy balls, man... I love you're guitars.


----------



## immortalx

Congrats to all of you guys, the talent of some people here is just amazing.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Good lord, Alex. That oil makes one hell of a difference to that top! Looks incredible!


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Certainly not the best looking piece in this thread but this neck and body have been sitting around my place for way too long not being used. Both originally were intended for different builds but each project got put on the back burner over time, now they're gonna get put to use together for a fun simple little build and to get some more practice under my belt. I might make a new build thread for it soon if I don't botch up the neck pocket...


----------



## helferlain

PENG²

Recently I met a hobby luthier from a nearbyby town. He has all the tools for acoustic building. After a nice afternoon in is workshop, sanding an bending the wood for my second attempt on the P.E.N.G concept, I can do the rest of the work in my improvised basement workshop....

(P.E.N.G. = piezo electric nylon guitar)


----------



## helferlain

Pics are gone ... ?


----------



## Prophetable

The links are all broken. Check the page they're hosted on.


----------



## TuffyKohler

I got a little off track...

working on a ukulele.


----------



## TuffyKohler

I decided to shave before going to bed last night


----------



## skeels

S7420 refinishing and reboarding- maple w/ebony binding.


----------



## Renkenstein

An Ibanez Saber is one guitar that I've always wanted but never owned.


----------



## skeels

Renkenstein said:


> An Ibanez Saber is one guitar that I've always wanted but never owned.



Had two - swirled one and traded it for a trade but kept this one for practice. Wanted one that was different so I hacked it!


----------



## cubix

Not the most exciting thing in this thread certainly, but this is a constant work in progress for me. Started as an IBANEZ S420 and a crazy idea of putting a pickguard on a Saber  I've also always wanted a maple fretboard on an S so I've ordered a replacement neck from an also Indonesian RG. Unfortunately the profile on it was terrible... I don't know who shaped that but it was extremely different than the stock necks - thick and flat. Replacement part quality I guess.... Sanded it down close to what I like but never really sealed it properly so it gets dirty on the back and I'm thinking of going back to my old rosewood one as it has an extremely comfy profile. Also had a D-Tuner for a while, but since I don't use the Zero stop anymore it kinda lost its place so I took it off. Let me know what You think! 











For a bonus, check out the wiring in the control cavity with a push pull EMG pot (it's got EMG 81 and 89 in the neck) !!! It was a mess, but it fit  Now it's a bit less crowded as I swapped the push pull with a 2 way switch to split the 89 and moved the volume to the tone position (I bumped it all the time while playing...) With the EMG and all that electronics it still barely weighs 6.5 pounds!


----------



## ChAoZ

Got the last of the frets in yesterday ,now all are in ,leveled ,re-crowned and polished \m/


----------



## Renkenstein

cubix said:


> Not the most exciting thing in this thread certainly, but this is a constant work in progress for me. Started as an IBANEZ S420 and a crazy idea of putting a pickguard on a Saber  I've also always wanted a maple fretboard on an S so I've ordered a replacement neck from an also Indonesian RG. Unfortunately the profile on it was terrible... I don't know who shaped that but it was extremely different than the stock necks - thick and flat. Replacement part quality I guess.... Sanded it down close to what I like but never really sealed it properly so it gets dirty on the back and I'm thinking of going back to my old rosewood one as it has an extremely comfy profile. Also had a D-Tuner for a while, but since I don't use the Zero stop anymore it kinda lost its place so I took it off. Let me know what You think!



That is a very cool S. Sucks that neck with the maple fretboard isn't any good. I agree, those Indonesian necks are garbage. I bought one of those Indobanez guitars on a sale off AMS, and I thought the neck was pure garbage. All shoulder, and very uncomfortable(I ended up trading that for a Prestige RG1570).

I'd find a way to stick to your plan of a maple board. It looks REALLY sharp. I've always wanted to try one of those ZR trems too.


----------



## cubix

ZR is the best trem I've played, but there are quality differences in the PRESTIGE ZR and those indonesian ones. Mostly tolerances are tighter. I had to dissasemble the whole thing and put it back together adjusting some things because the sustain was just not there. The posts were also very loose in the body (!). Now it's tight as a drum. 

I also like the look of the maple, but it's just like You describe it - basically rounded plank. Strange because the stock neck (also indonesian) is awesome! I might put the stock neck in for a while and work on the maple one some more taking precise measurments off my Prestige Wizard RG neck.


----------



## Renkenstein

cubix said:


> ZR is the best trem I've played, but there are quality differences in the PRESTIGE ZR and those indonesian ones. Mostly tolerances are tighter. I had to dissasemble the whole thing and put it back together adjusting some things because the sustain was just not there. The posts were also very loose in the body (!). Now it's tight as a drum.
> 
> I also like the look of the maple, but it's just like You describe it - basically rounded plank. Strange because the stock neck (also indonesian) is awesome! I might put the stock neck in for a while and work on the maple one some more taking precise measurments off my Prestige Wizard RG neck.



Buy a spokeshave and some rasps and fix the maple FB neck. Just take the shoulders right off and leave the TRC area in the middle alone. Sand it to 220(or 400 if you want really smooth), and finish it with a few coats of tung oil. Fun weekend project for around $50...probably less.


----------



## cubix

Sanding it down enough shouldn't be a problem as I do have a few belt grinders/sanders for metalwork  I did it once but I'm still not happy with the profile, it's not easy to match it without the radius thingy that captures one neck profile and You can compare it to what You're doing. The fretboard itself isn't perfect either and would require levelling (there are a few dimples in it from shitty sanding I think) but the frets would have to come out for that... I will work on it!

For finishing I tried the Tru Oil but wasn't too happy, seems to require alot of layers and I still was able to sand thru it when I tried to matte it lightly  I have some danish oil that I might try.


----------



## callankirk

Finished this up a few weeks ago for my band's lead singer/one of my best friends. 

Baritone 6'er tele, 1 piece swamp ash body, 5 piece curly maple/mahogany neck, Reranch Mary Kay finish with Sherwin Williams LOVOC nitro, buncha other stuff. 

First time I've ever done a non-scarf joint neck and it was a good learning experience! Plays like a dream and sounds MASSIVE. Perfect for our style (Failure/Hum/Smashing Pumpkins/Deftones). Still need to get better pics of it.


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

callankirk said:


> Finished this up a few weeks ago for my band's lead singer/one of my best friends.
> 
> Baritone 6'er tele, 1 piece swamp ash body, 5 piece curly maple/mahogany neck, Reranch Mary Kay finish with Sherwin Williams LOVOC nitro, buncha other stuff.
> 
> First time I've ever done a non-scarf joint neck and it was a good learning experience! Plays like a dream and sounds MASSIVE. Perfect for our style (Failure/Hum/Smashing Pumpkins/Deftones). Still need to get better pics of it.



Wow what a gorgeous Tele! Would love to see a build thread / progress pics if you've got 'em


----------



## Prophetable

The figuring on the neck is what does it for me. Very nice.


----------



## skeels

^Dude, what is that fretboard? It's awesome!


----------



## pel

skeels said:


> S7420 refinishing and reboarding- maple w/ebony binding.



what a job ! good work !


----------



## ChAoZ

A bloody great slab of Bubinga, 1030mm x 460mm


----------



## PunchLine

cubix said:


> Not the most exciting thing in this thread certainly, but this is a constant work in progress for me. Started as an IBANEZ S420 and a crazy idea of putting a pickguard on a Saber  I've also always wanted a maple fretboard on an S so I've ordered a replacement neck from an also Indonesian RG. Unfortunately the profile on it was terrible... I don't know who shaped that but it was extremely different than the stock necks - thick and flat. Replacement part quality I guess.... Sanded it down close to what I like but never really sealed it properly so it gets dirty on the back and I'm thinking of going back to my old rosewood one as it has an extremely comfy profile. Also had a D-Tuner for a while, but since I don't use the Zero stop anymore it kinda lost its place so I took it off. Let me know what You think!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For a bonus, check out the wiring in the control cavity with a push pull EMG pot (it's got EMG 81 and 89 in the neck) !!! It was a mess, but it fit  Now it's a bit less crowded as I swapped the push pull with a 2 way switch to split the 89 and moved the volume to the tone position (I bumped it all the time while playing...) With the EMG and all that electronics it still barely weighs 6.5 pounds!


That's a looker! Both necks look nice on it I think.


----------



## callankirk

Prophetable said:


> The figuring on the neck is what does it for me. Very nice.



Thanks man! $90 for a 1"x4"x30" board of 5A curly maple...it had better have some sick figuring to it 



skeels said:


> ^Dude, what is that fretboard? It's awesome!



The fretboard is actually Mora. I found it at Rockler and I'd never heard of it...pulled up a hardness scale online, saw that it's a central peninsular wood (aka probably hard - it is) and tried it. Worked pretty well, chipped out a little easily, but finished incredibly smoothly. I'll be using it again for sure. 



Blue1970Cutlass said:


> Wow what a gorgeous Tele! Would love to see a build thread / progress pics if you've got 'em



Thanks man! I planned on doing one, I have just been swamped since the new year and haven't had an opportunity to make one yet. I'll definitely try to get to it soon.


----------



## TuffyKohler

I finally got to test out and put my vacuum frame press into use. 

There's a maple top in there, with mahogany veneers being pressed on. 






And then some maple veneer on top of the mahogany.


----------



## jwade

East Indian rosewood neck blank/Gabon ebony bass fingerboard


----------



## DredFul

jwade said:


> East Indian rosewood neck blank/Gabon ebony bass fingerboard



Your cat doesn't seem to approve but I do! Loving that rosewood!


----------



## jwade

Ha yeah she does NOT like having cameras pointed at her.


----------



## Knarbens

Slow progress ... drilled the single saddle holes.


----------



## DredFul




----------



## jwade

oh, also:


----------



## jwade




----------



## TuffyKohler

I got distracted and this popped out...


----------



## helferlain

TuffyKohler said:


> I got distracted and this popped out...


Nice! Ich have a similar headstock in mind. Will you use locking tuners for this design?


----------



## TuffyKohler

helferlain said:


> Nice! Ich have a similar headstock in mind. Will you use locking tuners for this design?



Yes, I'm planning on locking tuners. I'm not sure if this design would work well with standard tuners and several wraps around the posts. This is the second shape I've tried. The angle the tuners sit at may be an issue.

I 'came up with' this idea since I wanted a slotted type headstock, but with a twist. As usual, there's no new ideas. 

A nice version of this headstock from a S. African builder, Casimi Guitars: 

Handmade acoustic guitars | South Africa | Casimi Guitars


----------



## TuffyKohler

Glued up a neck, did a little truss rod routing and access hole drilling.






And the little jig I used for drilling the hole -- this is from a different neck - 







I see the light!


----------



## Purelojik

TuffyKohler said:


> Glued up a neck, did a little truss rod routing and access hole drilling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the little jig I used for drilling the hole -- this is from a different neck -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see the light!


 
that is genius. Mind if i give that a try? i've been doing mine the manual way and praying i dont screw something up


----------



## TuffyKohler

Purelojik said:


> that is genius. Mind if i give that a try? i've been doing mine the manual way and praying i dont screw something up



No, I don't mind at all. please do use this. As an FYI regarding mine, it took a few tries and tests (and mistakes) to get everything lined up with this jig. 

To start, i just drilled a hole through the mdf block, then I cut the 15* angle on one side to match my scarf joints.

The hole i drilled is NOT perfectly straight through the block, but I just made little registration marks on the jig for alignment. It sits a little crooked when its all lined up to the registration marks.

I got this idea from using a Kreg joining jig for making cabinets.


----------



## Renkenstein

Yeah, I love the look of those kind of TR access holes.


----------



## Knarbens

Slowly getting somewhere with this guitar


----------



## Renkenstein

Knarbens is so clean, even his dust arranges itself in nice little piles out of the way.

What do you have there, Knarbz...a little extended pocket mortise thing extending under the pickup? What's the neck on that one look like?


----------



## immortalx

Congrats to all of you guys, fantastic stuff!

^ I guess the lower self on the pup route is for cable clearance.


----------



## TuffyKohler

I'm guessing it's a wiring route that was drilled from the neck pocket before the pickups were routed. Solid body...


----------



## Knarbens

Renkenstein said:


> What do you have there, Knarbz...a little extended pocket mortise thing extending under the pickup? What's the neck on that one look like?





immortalx said:


> ^ I guess the lower self on the pup route is for cable clearance.





TuffyKohler said:


> I'm guessing it's a wiring route that was drilled from the neck pocket before the pickups were routed. Solid body...



Yeah, it's the third guitar with that sort of necktenon. Not sure if I should like it or not. There are pros and cons ... here's the first guitar I used it and a look at the neck. It's on my multiscale build as well.

EDIT: Oh, and right ... that's the wiring route you see there.


----------



## helferlain

actual project ::neckthrough, body construction similar to acoustics, (but no acoustic function)


----------



## immortalx

I got this treadmill for cheap the other day and converted it to a sander. It has a 1.5 HP motor but it seems enough for the job.
Firstly I got rid of the base and handles. 




I then bolted the control unit onto the motor cover, which is a convenient spot that allows me to work from either side of the sander. 




I built a steel frame to get it on working height and reinforced the table by adding a 20mm plywood board. It's not a precision surface but I was able to make it reasonably flat by adding shims over the tabs on which it's bolted on.










I will be adding a stop bar to prevent any workpiece from flying to the other side of the room  I also want to build a 90 degree fence and the popular fretboard sanding jig that works with belt sanders!


----------



## Prophetable

Genius! That treadmill sander is amazing.


----------



## SD83

Where do you get sand paper for that thing? I'd imagine it's not exactly standard size...


----------



## immortalx

SD83 said:


> Where do you get sand paper for that thing? I'd imagine it's not exactly standard size...



I placed an order on a local shop! I'm sure there are plenty such shops in Germany that you can get a custom sized belt. They will ask you what abrasive material, backing material (paper or cloth) and of course width and length you want.


----------



## sehnomatic

Richlite!

It's downright impossible to handsaw. The table saw has been defunct for years, so I made a jig for sawing frets on the band saw with a modified blade.

Today was a day of frustration and triumph too:
-Tear-out on flame maple binding. Ripped it off and replaced with with new binding.
-Drilled drunk side dots. Ripped the binding off, replaced it, and drilled proper side dots

Thankfully richlite never tears out. Now I'm just knocking myself because the figure on the treble side binding is prettier than that of the bass side  I'm almost tempted to replace the binding again.


----------



## Renkenstein

sehnomatic said:


> It's downright impossible to handsaw. The table saw has been defunct for years, so I made a jig for sawing frets on the band saw with a modified blade.



I LOVE THAT!!! I've often looked at my band saw when it comes time to slot frets, but I need new tires, guides, and a good setup before I'd even consider doing it on a fretboard.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

sehnomatic said:


> Richlite!
> 
> It's downright impossible to handsaw. The table saw has been defunct for years, so I made a jig for sawing frets on the band saw with a modified blade.
> 
> Today was a day of frustration and triumph too:
> -Tear-out on flame maple binding. Ripped it off and replaced with with new binding.
> -Drilled drunk side dots. Ripped the binding off, replaced it, and drilled proper side dots
> 
> Thankfully richlite never tears out. Now I'm just knocking myself because the figure on the treble side binding is prettier than that of the bass side  I'm almost tempted to replace the binding again.



Where'd you get your richlite from?


----------



## sehnomatic

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Where'd you get your richlite from?



Those boards are from here. I used to get scraps from a local countertop/kitchen/cabinet/interior design contractor.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

I'm currently in the very beginning stages of my first 7 build, gonna start a thread for it soon after I make a little bit of sawdust. 

The schematic is not really my favorite part of the process but super necessary. I like to draw it out by hand full size.


----------



## Knarbens

Body almost finished. I will go on with the neck now and than do a test assembly.












Made some wooden knobs. Still in progress ...


----------



## immortalx

^I'm speechless man, can't find any words to express how beautiful that is!
Please post more often


----------



## neun Arme

Awesome, yes, post more often.


----------



## ilmari

Ibanez AFD lookalike. Soon to be finished, but not soon enough


----------



## ChAoZ

6 string Iceman style ,Iroko body with poplar burl top - headstock and EMG81 veneered to match ,started finishing with amber shellac - not sure if I'm gonna lacquer over the shellac or just leave it as is ?


----------



## Renkenstein

ChAoZ said:


> 6 string Iceman style ,Iroko body with poplar burl top - headstock and EMG81 veneered to match ,started finishing with amber shellac - not sure if I'm gonna lacquer over the shellac or just leave it as is ?



Duuuuude, that's sick!


----------



## skeels

Trying to resuscitate an old unfinished build in between projects instead of sleeping.


----------



## Renkenstein

Old?!? Unfinished?!? With THAT fretboard?!?


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

ChAoZ said:


> 6 string Iceman style ,Iroko body with poplar burl top - headstock and EMG81 veneered to match ,started finishing with amber shellac - not sure if I'm gonna lacquer over the shellac or just leave it as is ?



Whoa 

Jackson-style neck / headstock though???


----------



## pondman

Cut down a dead Silver Birch and found this inside.



P1000935 by 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/rW1qD7]

P1000934 by 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/qZktVR]

P1000933 by https://www.flickr.com/people/[email protected]/


----------



## Purelojik




----------



## ChAoZ

Blue1970Cutlass said:


> Whoa
> 
> Jackson-style neck / headstock though???



It's an actual jackson neck that I have re-fretted with stainless jumbo's ,It looks pretty good together to me - I like to upset the "purists"


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

ChAoZ said:


> It's an actual jackson neck that I have re-fretted with stainless jumbo's ,It looks pretty good together to me - I like to upset the "purists"



 fair enough - it's your build afterall


----------



## ChAoZ

Blue1970Cutlass said:


> fair enough - it's your build afterall



Here they are together for your perusal


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

7 string currently under way.


----------



## Knarbens

Test assembly for my headless FF7 prototype. Numerous first-time features on this one for me.


----------



## Renkenstein

She's BEAUTIFUL, Knarbens!


----------



## TuffyKohler

walnut taking shape






and little something extra to hold my picks


----------



## DancingCloseToU

TuffyKohler said:


> ...and little something extra to hold my picks...



That pick holder is adorable! I really like the shape of that lefty too, Nice work!


----------



## BlackMastodon

Updated my other build threads with progress on them, but decided to post a little but here about dying and sealing the sides so that they don't absorb the dye.

I put some shellac around the edges of a piece of scrap and then hit the top with some blue dye to see if it would bleed through on the edges:






Alas, it did.  So alcohol based dyes don't play well with shellac, which is also diluted by denatured alcohol. If I want this to work as well as Renk's, then I'm going to have to think like Renk and get some water based dyes.

While I was working on the one guitar's refinish, though, I noticed that tongue oil does a pretty decent job of sealing the edges and preventing bleed-over from the dye on top, so long as you're careful and don't soak the poor bastard.






If you keep a rag soaked with alcohol nearby while dying the top, you can quickly try to wipe off any that accidentally gets on the oiled side and it will do a decent job of getting rid of it.

I obviously wouldn't do this for a guitar I was building for someone, but it was good enough for my own build.

And yes I know there is no dye on the top in that picture, there was black dye but I sanded it back.


----------



## DancingCloseToU

^DUDE! 

...sweet GTI. 

I had one just like it, but of the 2 door variety.

I also like that ergo headless thing you got going on.


----------



## JuliusJahn

Shellac get dissolved by alcohol right? Definitely not the best combo to use then.

I'd do poly or varnish or CA glue on the sides. Keep in mind, it shouldnt take much to sand out a stain anyways. I did it on the bevels of a recent build.


----------



## JEguitars




----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

JEguitars said:


>



What's with the two little cutouts on the back plate?


----------



## Prophetable

Probably just so you can get your fingers in under the cavity to take it off. Since there are no visible screws I assume it's magnetic?


----------



## pondman

Trying to get my motor running again with a little Jem fever.



P1010008 by [url=https://www.flickr.com/people/[email protected]/


----------



## TuffyKohler

tried out a new method for glueing fretboards.


----------



## immortalx

Wow, that's a bad ass jig Tuffy  I always wondered, how does one deal with glue squeeze out on this kind of presses? Do you just apply less glue or you wrap the fretboard with some kind of protective film?

BTW Does anyone know what has happened to the original poster of this thread (Walterson). He is one of my favorite builders here but he hasn't done any updates recently and I miss his fantastic builds.


----------



## TuffyKohler

immortalx said:


> Wow, that's a bad ass jig Tuffy  I always wondered, how does one deal with glue squeeze out on this kind of presses? Do you just apply less glue or you wrap the fretboard with some kind of protective film?



You have to plan for glue squeeze out somewhat... the meshy looking fabric is a plastic breather cloth to allow even suction across the whole press, as well as to protect the vinyl from tearing on any sharp corners. 

The breather cloth can take some of the squeeze out, but the cool thing is, I can clamp this, give it abour 10-15 minutes, release the pressure, clean all the squeeze out since it's slightly firm, then put it back under the press.

I'm not sure at all if this is easier than using clamps. That wasn't really my goal though, I was just curious how well the process would work.

I also needed an excuse to use the new pump setup I assembled.


----------



## immortalx

I believe I've build every radius jig possible except from the "swinging arm over belt sander". So it was time to build that one too 






It's a welded square tube box that I clamp over my treadmill..err..belt sander. The nice thing with it, is that I can put a radius on a fretboard that is already glued to the neck, cause I generally prefer to do it that way.

Here's the first neck I've put a radius on. This is a request of a very special friend of mine. Build thread coming shortly.


----------



## Knarbens

immortalx said:


> BTW Does anyone know what has happened to the original poster of this thread (Walterson). He is one of my favorite builders here but he hasn't done any updates recently and I miss his fantastic builds.



+1


----------



## Taylor

Making a mess cleaning up some Black Limba































Really should start thinking about getting some sort of dust collection system set up.


----------



## BlackMastodon

^I don't recommend using that aluminum angle stock for the router set up. It tends to bend under the weight of the router if you don't have the fences close enough. Angle iron is more stiff and better for this type of set up imo. I also used bigger angle iron, though. 2"x2" I believe.

That said, nice limba.


----------



## Taylor

Yeah I figured that out the first time I tried to use it  Now the only time I do use it is when the piece has a small enough width that the aluminum won't bend. I haven't needed to use it that much so I haven't replaced it with an angle iron setup yet.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

immortalx said:


> I believe I've build every radius jig possible except from the "swinging arm over belt sander". So it was time to build that one too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a welded square tube box that I clamp over my treadmill..err..belt sander. The nice thing with it, is that I can put a radius on a fretboard that is already glued to the neck, cause I generally prefer to do it that way.
> 
> Here's the first neck I've put a radius on. This is a request of a very special friend of mine. Build thread coming shortly.



Man that radius jig is dank. I just don't build enough guitars to justify spending the time or money to build such a jig for a single step in a build, I gotta stick to the radius sanding beam for now. You should post that thing in the jig thread and give it a necrobump.


----------



## immortalx

Thanks man! I don't build enough guitars either, but I do enjoy jig/tool making just as well as building actual guitars!


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Is that like the tiniest treadmill ever? Or is the neck just really big? My sense of scale is totally ....ed with that picture.


----------



## immortalx

Hehe, the treadmill is indeed a compact model and neck is a 26.5" scale length, so your sense of scale is totally perfect


----------



## Neilzord

immortalx said:


> Hehe, the treadmill is indeed a compact model and neck is a *THE BEST* scale length, so your sense of scale is totally perfect


----------



## immortalx

^^ 

Agreed


----------



## geoffstgermaine

A 7 string I'm working on:












A few of the specs:
Claro walnut on ash body
Walnut/BE maple neck
Ziricote fretboard
Dimarzio Illuminators
Hipshot Contour 7 Tremolo - Ghost piezo saddles


----------



## Knarbens

Love it Geoff!


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

geoffstgermaine said:


> A 7 string I'm working on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few of the specs:
> Claro walnut on ash body
> Walnut/BE maple neck
> Ziricote fretboard
> Dimarzio Illuminators
> Hipshot Contour 7 Tremolo - Ghost piezo saddles



Very cool  looks really clean

Luminlay dots? Or is that just an optical illusion?


----------



## geoffstgermaine

Blue1970Cutlass said:


> Very cool  looks really clean
> 
> Luminlay dots? Or is that just an optical illusion?



Thanks a lot! They're actually turquoise dots. I was a bit iffy on them when I was thinking up the scheme, but once I got them in I was very happy with the look. The side dots and headstock logo will match.


----------



## sehnomatic

Hardware fitting test (minus neck ferrules and bolts) before fret work.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

No good pics right now but I got 3 builds currently on my "workbench". A 7 string, a 6 string and a 5 string (bass)...

Its kinda weird having 3 different projects going at the same time and at different levels of completion but it gives me alternating types of builds to focus on, which can be kind of fun because sometimes I am working on my natural finish build and think "dang I wish I had a painted body or bass to work on cause those can be real cool sometimes too..." so then I just go in the other room and pull another one out lol. The 6 string guitar still needs a truss rod and fretboard. It will have a painted body. The 7 string is the closest to being done, it's nearly ready for shaping of the neck contour and finishing and it will be natural swamp ash finish. The 5 string bass will be sort of similar to a Mayones Jabba, but with my own design tweaks. Right now the bass is only a neck blank, a slab of cherry for the body and a schematic on my computer so it's got a while. I gotta get more wood for the body and neck, and all the hardware and pups before I go any further into that build. I started the two guitars a while back but then decided to try a bass instead because I switched to playing bass in my band a few months ago, and will likely be there for a while. As for the builds... IDK, maybe I'll do one massive pic dump on a single "completed build" thread. Like a year from now lol.


----------



## UnderTheSign

We rented a Woodmizer and sliced up some trees, including the gnarly alder I got for cheap a couple months ago.









Not a lot of guitar sized planks in there but the boards looked just the way I hoped they did... Wild grain, yum.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Man thats cool, was the Alder already dried?


----------



## UnderTheSign

No, it was cut down a few months ago so it'll have to air dry for a while now. Or I'll have to find a kiln


----------



## jwade




----------



## Hbett

Love the square binding on that fretboard. Looks slicker than Sinatra.


----------



## helferlain

PU test guitar & prototype for my new design:


----------



## ChAoZ




----------



## TuffyKohler

putting my makeshift spray booth to use.






I'll do some grain filling on this one tomorrow.


----------



## TuffyKohler

I've been traveling for work for a little more than two weeks now. 
I'm looking forward to getting back at it.


----------



## geoffstgermaine

A couple of explorers getting close to done:


----------



## Blue1970Cutlass

I pretty much just drooled all over myself

What's the top on the first one, redwood burl?


----------



## geoffstgermaine

Blue1970Cutlass said:


> I pretty much just drooled all over myself
> 
> What's the top on the first one, redwood burl?


 
Thanks, Blue1970Cutlass! Yeah, it's redwood burl.


----------



## Renkenstein

Been focusing on things in the shop and neglecting my forum contributions. Wrapping up my multiscale Raze, doing an Epi-Paul headstock repair, building another Siren, and building this baby. Busy busy!


----------



## electriceye

helferlain said:


> PU test guitar & prototype for my new design:



NO WAY!!! I've been doodling EXACT style headstocks the past few weeks! Yet, YOU nailed it! Nice job!!


----------



## TuffyKohler

electriceye said:


> NO WAY!!! I've been doodling EXACT style headstocks the past few weeks! Yet, YOU nailed it! Nice job!!



Uh, Casimi 'nailed' it... post #401...







Anyways, I started cutting out a new neck for another build.







and again, I love stripes. Volute taking shape.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Made some progress on a one piece body. The thing was a tank, and needed some weight relief.

First, make a hole, then cover it back up. None of this will be visible when I'm done, there will be a veneer going on the top.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Put some strings on this last night. Pickups arrived this morning. 







And I pulled this out of the vacuum press.


----------



## Prophetable

TuffyKohler said:


>



I have no idea what this is but I like it.


----------



## Deegatron

is that some kind of discolored copper?


----------



## TuffyKohler

Deegatron said:


> is that some kind of discolored copper?



DING! Winner!

I've been using wood veneers from this place, and vacuum supplies and info from Joe Woodworker. 

Patina Copper Veneer Stock List


----------



## KnightroExpress

That copper top is stunning.


----------



## Deegatron

HEH copper top... like the battery... epic!


----------



## TuffyKohler

yeah, the photobucket folder is named Chester Coppertop... if anyone gets the vague Goonies reference...

This is pretty much a similar take on the Ormsby Copper tops. Someone did a Duracell mockup that was pretty funny in one of the Ormsby threads.

This top is called bamboo forest. There's some really cool looking other ones.

The mystic topaz, irish moss, and the flamed all could make some awesome tops.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Got the edges all trimmed up. I put some transfer paper over the copper to keep it from getting scratched while routing. This stuff is pretty soft. It will still scratch and ding... 







Makes for a cool looking edge. That's a 1/8 round over.






Copper bits coming off the router bit hurt more than regular sawdust that's for sure. But it routes really easily and well.


----------



## electriceye

TuffyKohler said:


> DING! Winner!
> 
> I've been using wood veneers from this place, and vacuum supplies and info from Joe Woodworker.
> 
> Patina Copper Veneer Stock List



Those are sick! Thanks for the link!


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Glued up a 3 lam Black Cherry and Wenge block, then split the Wenge down the middle to make a top with 2 bookmatched halves. The table saw I'm using couldn't cut all the way to the center after a full pass from both sides, so I split the remaining center with a hand saw... this is the kind of stuff that'll give you arms like Popeye... or reoccurring nightmares 










I'll wait til this one is really well progressed to post a build thread, I just don't have the urge to write a huge detailed thread for it. It'll be a suprise when its done!!!


----------



## Seventhwave

TuffyKohler said:


> Put some strings on this last night. Pickups arrived this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I pulled this out of the vacuum press.



That copper top is very unique. Cool stuff for sure. How does the edge feel?


----------



## Bolwede




----------



## TuffyKohler

Seventhwave said:


> That copper top is very unique. Cool stuff for sure. How does the edge feel?



It's totally smooth after hitting the edge with a 1/8 round over bit. As long as the copper is glued well, it's virtually seamless.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

This is what I currently have on my workbench, a project of different sorts, I'm making a picture frame for my family from some white ash. I thought due to my experience with guitar related work, that this would've been just some chump project that I could finish in like an hour... not so much. It's a bit harder than it looks. I have a new found respect for frame makers...


----------



## TuffyKohler

Time to do what I do best. Or actually what I do most, which is fix mistakes...

So, in another thread I gave the tip of swapping the bearings from a 3/8 router bit to a 1/2 bit for routing out a binding ledge. 

But what's an even better tip, is to PUT THE BEARING BACK on the correct bits IMMEDIATELY after finishing that job. 

Otherwise, when you come back to the garage the next day, and plan to trim a fretboard flush to a neck....

This was trimmed pretty close before I hit it with the router, and immediately knew what I did. So I just kept going. Time to bind my first neck. 






So I cut some wenge and Paduak strips to see what they may look like...

Any votes for which? Other ideas?


----------



## Grif

I would go for maple or ivoroid binding


----------



## jwade

I would suggest getting some purfling. A nice clean division would look awesome with that wood. 

Tough to find any good pictures of what I mean, but something like this might look great if you went with the wenge binding:


----------



## JuliusJahn

white/wenge would be sick. I'm against padauk accents.


----------



## pondman

I got a nice surprise from my friend Skeels.
2 killer sets of Canary Wood tops.



P1010289 by 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/xetdXH]

P1010288 by 

Thanks Andy


----------



## pondman

These arrived today 



P1010292 by 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/xCjCyy]

P1010294 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Cocobolo?


----------



## pondman

Yeah, Cocobolo like I've never seen before.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

The coloring looks a lot like cocobolo pieces I've seen come out of Nicaragua. The dark streaks are amazing. Like an orange ziricote.


----------



## pondman

HaMMerHeD said:


> The coloring looks a lot like cocobolo pieces I've seen come out of Nicaragua. The dark streaks are amazing. Like an orange ziricote.



Your right on the money, that's exactly where its from.
The orange Ziricote look is exactly why I had to have em.


----------



## Taylor

Getting marker inlays glued in; next will be the main inlay.












Also waiting on a billet of steel to arrive. Think I'll try my hand at a little knife making.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

I made one once.






It was fun.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Making a hook to hang my headphones, to get them off my desk.






I think I'll design and make some similar guitar wall-hangers.


----------



## KnightroExpress

For some reason, I imagine your house full of beautiful jagged furniture.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

KnightroExpress said:


> For some reason, I imagine your house full of beautiful jagged furniture.








I would murder an unlimited number of people for that to be my dining room.


----------



## KnightroExpress

That set is unreasonably badass.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

KnightroExpress said:


> That set is unreasonably badass.



Giger was an unreasonably talented German.


----------



## Pikka Bird

HaMMerHeD said:


> Giger was an unreasonably talented German.



But mostly Swiss.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Pikka Bird said:


> But mostly Swiss.



Ah. Thought he was German. I stand corrected.


----------



## BlackMastodon

HaMMerHeD said:


> Making a hook to hang my headphones, to get them off my desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I'll design and make some similar guitar wall-hangers.


Welp, I know what my next woodworking project is gonna be.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

BlackMastodon said:


> Welp, I know what my next woodworking project is gonna be.



Nice. Show your work! I'm not super happy with a couple things with it, so I'm going to make a new one. The GF wants that one though.


----------



## jwade

What's on my workbench? 

Heartbreak.






I really don't like ebony any more.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

That can be fixed, relatively easily I expect. I'd use epoxy.


----------



## jwade

Oh of course it can be fixed, it just destroyed my timetable for today. Also, it generated more profanity than I'd anticipated using today


----------



## Knarbens

Oh ebony can be brittle ...


----------



## Hywel

I'm planning probably one final build for the foreseeable future and it's a 26"-27" 8 string multiscale. However, since the only time I tried an 8 string (an RG8) lasted about a minute before I laughed at the size of it and put it back on the shop wall, I don't want to spend a lot on an instrument I think I might hate. That being the case, I wanted to make use of parts I already have to hand (no prizes for guessing what I'm going to make with a 38mm thick ash blank) and spend as little as reasonably possible on the rest. As single string bridges cost a fortune, I decide to try making one of those Wilkinson saddle/baseplate things.

Materials required -

3mm Aluminium plate - £0.50
8 Steel Wilkinson style saddles - ~£13
8 x M3x16mm machine screws - £0.30
3 x M3x20mm wood screws - £0.12

Total cost = ~£14

I drew a template in Adobe Illustrator as usual (available here if anyone wants it) and cut the plate to size on the band saw.







followed by sanding in the rounded corners and filing the edges smooth. 






Stuck on a new template to mark the positions for all the holes and drilled, tapped and countersunk everything.











And then screwed it together. Only took about 30min to make. I just hope it works on the actual guitar. 






Oh, and I re-carved the neck and changed the pickups in my first build from a P90/High output humbucker config to a set of BKP Mules I got on eBay cheap. Converted them to short leg baseplate and 4 conductor wiring and added the nickel plated steel hex bolts rather than the mucky gold screws they came with.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Awesome bridge, and thanks for offering the template file!


----------



## Hywel

BlackMastodon said:


> Awesome bridge, and thanks for offering the template file!



Cheers! If someone finds a use for them or even just uses the drawings of the saddles for their own prototyping then all my procrastination from actual work will have been worth it.


----------



## SandyRavage

Had this guy up for sale for a minute and decided today to fix all the dings and dents myself and prep for paint. Currently sanded to 1500 and steel wool but I secretly kind of enjoyi the flat black. Any suggestions on color? I'm thinking natural back with an olive top.


----------



## jwade




----------



## electriceye

jwade said:


>



WOW!!!!!!!


----------



## TonyFlyingSquirrel

What kind of guitar is that?




SandyRavage said:


> Had this guy up for sale for a minute and decided today to fix all the dings and dents myself and prep for paint. Currently sanded to 1500 and steel wool but I secretly kind of enjoyi the flat black. Any suggestions on color? I'm thinking natural back with an olive top.


----------



## SandyRavage

TonyFlyingSquirrel said:


> What kind of guitar is that?



USA WM526.... It was heavily toured with and belonged to a former endorsee so had tons of dings and minor cosmetic scratches on her but she is 99.9% perfect now and back to being a candidate for a respray. Just need to decide how I am going to refinish her.


----------



## jwade

Slowwwwwly making bits of progress. Wenge/maple neck, Wenge headstock (scarf joint), maple top/head plate, basswood body, streaky Gabon ebony fb. Still have to order tuners, inlay material, and possibly Ionizers.


----------



## helferlain

New pickup mounting system. Laser cut plastic parts are ready, now waiting for the routing templates. Still in a raw stadium:






After testing and prototyping, now 2 "real" guitars with adjustable leg rest:


----------



## ChAoZ




----------



## Infernal_Death

Long time lurker here. I recently finished my first builds. Wanted to take the opportunity to thank all you guys here for sharing all the knowledge. It helped very much to see all those build threads.
So here are my first builds:






Sorry for the poor quality, i even suck more on taking pics than building guitars 
Anyway the right one is a Les Paul kit from Precision Guitar Kits. Figured for my first "build" i rather buy a kit and finish it. It's dark transparent red color. Put in a set of SD black winter. Plays great although the baseball bat neck of a les paul is not my absolute favourite (i mainly play Jackson's so i am used to something thinner).
The one on the left is actually my first proper build. Having no clue at all i found some nice plans of a mocking bird online and figured i'd rather start with good plans, although the mocking bird really is not my favourite body shape ( i still like it though).
It took me quite some months to finish it. Did many mistakes which i think will help me on my next build (planing on making a 7 string Rhoads). I had expected it to be fire wood at the end but suprisingly i can even play it 
Thought about doing a little Kerry King tribute (he played a red mocking bird in the early days of Slayer) so that's the reason i choose this color. It's not a very strict tribute (of course bolt on neck for first build instead of the neck through of the King guitar). Pickups are 81/85 with EMG signal booster.

Anyway thanks again for all the knowledge sharing. It's great to see so many threads about building guitars and normally i always find answers here to problems i have with my builds.

Cheers

Flo


----------



## TuffyKohler

I've been progressing on a few different projects lately. I was starting to shape this neck, and I've been wanting a better way to clamp the neck during this process.

This pic is the way I was doing it. Just had the headstock clamped to the bench, and I supported the heel end either with a brace, which moved all the time, or with it jammed against my belly, which, while it turned out to be a decent ab workout, sucked for really tearing into the neck with my Iwasaki files.






So, I built a little jig/platform for the neck to sit on, then I can clamp down the support onto my bench.

support - cork lined to protect the fretboard






and the jig in use -


----------



## BlackMastodon

Stealing that idea fo sho.  Looks like a much better way to carve a neck, good work! And nice neck, too.


----------



## Ernesto

I love this thread! You guys are all awesome!

I've been doing a ton of electronics repair lately but powered mixer circuit boards and speaker rebuilds are no fun to look at. I've been getting some guitar stuff to do too, which I really love doing.

The first one is a 70's Epiphone acoustic that got stepped on, breaking the neck mount block and a few braces out of the body and destroying the upper part of the sound hole. I was able to get everything glued back in but needed to do something cosmetic about the sound hole damage so I made the butterfly thingy. The glue up worked really well even though every other shop in the area said it was unfixable. The whole repair job took less than two hours and most of that was setting up clamps. Instead of gluing the butterfly thing on, I decided to screw it on so there are four screws securing the top to the neck block now, in addition to the glue. I also put longer screw in the strap knob and put longer screws in the neck screw cover so there are now nine screws reinforcing the neck block and the four on top are the only visible ones. I also did a quick fret leveling and recrown and got the truss rod just right. I had to put some thin cardboard shims in the neck pocket and under the bridge to get the action perfect. I would have filed the neck pocket and made a new bridge but I did the job for free for a friend that was leaving for Mexico the next day. It plays like an electric now and holds tune perfectly. Another cool thing is the butterfly resonates at lower frequencies and really puts some punch in the low end. It sounds like an old Gibson now!













This one is a bass from Painless Guitars. It was unplayable from day one. It had terrible action, would not intonate, had an ugly clear pick guard, the fretwork was awful and the fret edges would slice up your hands. The solder joints on the pots were also so awful that four wires popped off after only playing the bass for a few days and letting it sit in it's case as a lost cause for years. Either Wayne really didn't like this guy, he was having a terrible day, or he's a hack. The owner is a nice guy so...? It's sure pretty though! Anyway, after a couple hours of love and attention, it plays, looks, and sounds like a $3k bass should now. I didn't get an after shot on this one because it was dark when I finished it and I delivered it the next morning and forgot to get a pic, but I polished the back of the clear pickguard and painted it black. It looks right now with the black fret markers and the ugly wiring cleaned up and hidden.







I also worked a bit with the guys at Truth Guitars. They're doing crazy stuff like wrapping old guitars with distressed leather and copper. I did the wiring, fret job, setup, and bridge install on the leather one and wiring and setup on the copper one. Took them from unplayable to slicker than snot. Melissa Etheridge played and signed the leather wrapped one and it will be auctioned off for charity at some point. Not a big fan of hers or anything but it's cool to see something I've worked on being enjoyed by a famous musician. There was lots of talk about me becoming a partner and getting to use the shop but they didn't even mention me in the facebook posts and the shop thing isn't happening so I won't be doing any more work with them, which is a bummer.










I'm also working on an all metal, collapsible, fanned fret, 9 string acoustic electric travel guitar for myself. It will have a fretless E0 down the back of the neck with a remote plucker mounted next to the strum area of the top strings, an evertune like constant string tension/tremolo hybrid, and a shape shifting home made low z pickup. I've got a slow build thread posted here in the luthier section but will be focusing on it over the next week. The neck is 90% done, I'll have the body done on Sunday, and am guessing the little parts will take another week or so to bust it all out in my desert tent workshop. Then I'll have to take it all apart, polish it, clear coat it, and reassemble. 

Here's a link to the build thread: http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...lapsible-acoustic-electric-travel-guitar.html


----------



## TuffyKohler

NRJD 

New radius jig day. Spent saturday making an elbow saving jig. No more spending forever sanding with a radius block. 
It wouldn't have taken me as long to build as it did, but I started out building a 12" diameter jig at first... I only cut one arc before I realized that it looked a little small...

Test run on a maple blank.






And a full shot of the whole thing.


----------



## electriceye

TuffyKohler said:


> NRJD
> 
> New radius jig day. Spent saturday making an elbow saving jig. No more spending forever sanding with a radius block.
> It wouldn't have taken me as long to build as it did, but I started out building a 12" diameter jig at first... I only cut one arc before I realized that it looked a little small...
> 
> Test run on a maple blank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And a full shot of the whole thing.




That is AWESOME!!!


----------



## TonyFlyingSquirrel

Doing a level/crown/redress on a 1970 Guild Jumbo Acoustic.
No Pics yet, gotta do a serial # search to get more specifics as the model number & such are absent from the label in the soundhole.

It's been butchered prior to its current owner with a Fishman install and a endpin/jack relocation, but it sounds wonderful.

Just getting the fretwear/dips levelled out & a new nut installed as the current nut was cut too low. Putting a TUSQ XL & will try to get it looking as close to like it's been there a while as I can.

I have the level/crown done, not to polish/dress before moving on to the nut.
I'm pleased that the fret rocker is consistently rigid all the way across the neck laterally, as well as up to each fret. I did file a bit of fallaway into the area where the neck meets the body and where the fingerboard is over the body as this player is pretty much at his extent by the time he gets to the 9th fret, and that's only when he capo's. Otherwise, he's open up to 5 for the most part.


----------



## Cloudy

Just leveled/crowned/polished the frets on this one, I've enjoyed working with Evo frets so far. Put some spirits on half of the top to see the contrast between the gold and walnut.








I finished rough cutting the body on my next build as well, burl maple top and a sitka spruce body. Trying to decide between going with a flamed maple neck or spanish cedar neck with it.


----------



## Metallipea




----------



## jwade

Cloudy said:


>



Is that an amboyna burl top?


----------



## tssb

jwade said:


>



there, fixed it for you.


----------



## Cloudy

jwade said:


> Is that an amboyna burl top?



Nope, burl maple with some spirits rubbed on the top to bring out the figuring .


----------



## TuffyKohler

A little update on my radius jig. After the test runs, I made a new bottom sled, and this time, I accounted for the additional length of the router bit, which sits below the rail. 

The original rail was cut at a 12" radius, so the bit was sitting about 1 9/16" below the rails, essentially cutting a 10.5" radius. 

I made a new lower sled, this time with a 13 9/16" radius. Much better results.

I radiused, sanded, and fretted 2 necks yesterday. And today I can still lift my arms!


----------



## Levi79

Haven't been posting on here for a long time, there's even more talent around here! I posted a couple of my recently finished builds in the sticky thread if anyone is interested.

I also recently put together these hollow Sapele wings with an Arariba top and back. It's going to have a Sapele/Curly Maple 3 piece neck thru.


----------



## Infernal_Death

So i went forward with my next build. This time something more pointy. Being a big Jackson fan (owning only Jackson guitars besides the self-builds) i thought about building a Rhoads.
So here is a pic of the progress so far:






This will be a 24 fret 7 String reversed headstock Rhoads. Being the second build for me, it will be the first neck-through build and i can finally see why those guitars costs more.
Maple neck with alder wings, 25.5 scale ebony fretboard with iron crosses inlays, hipshot tuners and bridge. Will be painted black with white bevels, white EMG 81-7X (bridge) and EMG 60-7x (neck).

Best regards

Flo


----------



## Ram150023

Finally after 6 years... taking my 8 string design and turning it into something real hahaha

Here are the start pics of the laminated neck... Quick specs so far...

7 piece laminated neck (Oak & Poplar... Pictured)
Neck through construction











... Just pulled it out of the press and clamps... solid as a rock. Now have to thickness plane it and make and glue the wings on... The full build and story is on my thread @ http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/luthiery-modifications-customizations/109972-my-build-check.html


----------



## TuffyKohler

Fresh squeezings from the vacuum press. 

I haven't used these methods in awhile. It's gonna take a few practice runs to get a really sweet finish. 

This is just out of the bag after a 2 hour cure time on a basswood core.


----------



## TuffyKohler

This guy just got off the workbench. In the hands of a lefty now.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Busted out the old router-thicknessing jig today, spent a little while setting it up and leveling the walnut body blank front and back for my current 5 string bass build. Went really well, got it down to right at 1.735". The remaining lines from the milling process will easily sand out.










Re-traced the body template on top and laid a neck in place to get an idea of what it may look like. This is not the neck to be used, just an old fender jazz bass neck, but I like how it looks already.











Also, just wanted to put this out there. Pretty interesting read about noise levels in the shop. 

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip43.html

I often double up with ear plugs and ear muffs at the same time, especially while running power tools, but today I noticed a little bit of ringing in my ears for a short while after milling down that body blank, even with the precautions taken. Will soon be looking for better hearing protection and a quieter router, this one has seen better days and needs a new companion and/or replacement anyway.


----------



## Mehnike

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Also, just wanted to put this out there. Pretty interesting read about noise levels in the shop.
> 
> Noise Levels in the Shop
> 
> I often double up with ear plugs and ear muffs at the same time, especially while running power tools, but today I noticed a little bit of ringing in my ears for a short while after milling down that body blank, even with the precautions taken. Will soon be looking for better hearing protection and a quieter router, this one has seen better days and needs a new companion and/or replacement anyway.


It excites me to hear others taking hearing damage seriously, especially around power tools. Using some nice muffs always improves my diligence when performing potentially dangerous operations. And lets not forget the respirator and eye protection. It is so nice to breathe in fresh air when cutting/sanding/routing and never flinch when debris comes shooting your way. In cabinetry classes I have attended, I have seen others almost look away and struggle to finish a router operation because of chips/dust spitting in their breathing path.(eye protection was necessary but respiratory and ear protection was not). I think respiratory protection is a necessity when working with almost every power tool that creates dust. Protect your eyes, ears, and lungs!

*Be safe out there guys!*


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Mehnike said:


> It excites me to hear others taking hearing damage seriously, especially around power tools. Using some nice muffs always improves my diligence when performing potentially dangerous operations. And lets not forget the respirator and eye protection. It is so nice to breathe in fresh air when cutting/sanding/routing and never flinch when debris comes shooting your way. In cabinetry classes I have attended, I have seen others almost look away and struggle to finish a router operation because of chips/dust spitting in their breathing path.(eye protection was necessary but respiratory and ear protection was not). I think respiratory protection is a necessity when working with almost every power tool that creates dust. Protect your eyes, ears, and lungs!
> 
> *Be safe out there guys!*



For me respiratory protection comes as a necessity more than just an option that I can just brush off if I don't feel like it. See, I have HORRIBLE allergies to dust. I use several prescription allergy medications daily and have filters in my home to keep things under control. Every time I do anything in the shop that kicks up particles I wear a fresh N95 mask and prop open a door for circulation. I even go as far as taking a few minutes to give myself a clean shave before hand, for a tighter seal around my face. But I still get occasional sneezing fits for a day or two after spending a couple hours in the shop. And the hearing protection comes as a pet peeve. I am very cautious about the noises I expose myself to. I can't even stand to run a vacuum cleaner without at least ear muffs. In fact, I take a set of Earasers to the movies with me if it is a loud movie with action scenes and such&#8230; I already have some hearing damage in my left ear due to careless un-protected target shooting of various rifles and pistols when I was younger.


----------



## TuffyKohler

After breaking out in a nasty rash last holiday season from working with some pau ferro, I've swapped from a dust mask to a respirator. Just my face and between my fingers broke out, and only a cortisone shot would kill it. I've had poison oak that didn't suck that much. 
If you can smell it what your cutting/glueing/sanding, your dust mask isn't working well enough. 

I also found a nice pair of over the ear Bluetooth noise cancelling headphones. I can turn them on, and have the tunes swap from my shop stereo to the headphones instantly, and back again, or kill the music if needed. I keep leaving the vacuum on because I can't hear it. I wouldn't always reach for my foam in ear protection, now I always use it. 

Ahhh the itch!!!


----------



## HaMMerHeD

This is on my list of near-term purchases.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...3HM9IBGLE38S1&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

Right now I just have some regular 3M ear muffs, a full-face dust mask (I haven't found a set of safety glasses yet that works well with my prescription glasses), and a respirator.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Very nice, I have the 3M ones too, (the kind they sell at Home Depot). I plan to upgrade to these:
http://www.amazon.com/ear muffs

The reviews look really good, so those covers and a pack of Hearos Extreme protection ear plugs that you can get at Walgreens. I estimate it'll be 60-65 dB total noise reduction, bringing everything down to a nice hush. Along with changing my habit of doing multiple hours straight to include some breaks in work while spending time in the shop.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Binding time

10x shot. Bubbles in the resin, not visible to the naked eye.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Got a few things going on...

Sealing and grain filling a couple 













Finished this and strung it up






And trying something new


----------



## Infernal_Death

So while still figuring out stuff for my second built, the 7 String Rhoads i already started with my 3rd build (which might actually end up my 2nd built).

Since i just finished building my thickness router jig, i joint the mahagony blocks for the body. This being my second body i am really happy with the result, fits extremely well. The thickness router jig and also the new router table i bought really helped.






Anywa this will be some kind of Ibanez / Jackson build. Will get a Ibanez JEM body (minus the handle) and a neck with a Jackson type headstock. Specs will be as following:
- 7 String, bolt on.
- Gold hipshot hardware
- Mahagony body with quilted maple top (mahagony will be oiled, quilted maple top will be green transparent), still not sure if i also will bind the body or only the neck.
- Wenge/Padouk/Wenge neck with ziricote fretboard (without inlays).
- SD Nazgul/Sentient pickups.

Flo


----------



## TonyFlyingSquirrel

Upgraded my setup bench/tooboxes, thanks to Harbor Freight.

Before:




After:




Then, to the left of what you see, one of these:
https://www.benchsolution.com/product/workbench-idealwall-kit/60/

The whole idea is so that we can fit both cars in the garage and walk completely around both.

I have an idea for a modular table to house my bench top drill press, and small belt sander, but I'm still toying with design ideas for it.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Tru oil bath is underway. 

Gotta do my finish work in the house during the cold months.


----------



## neun Arme

TuffyKohler said:


> Tru oil bath is underway.
> 
> Gotta do my finish work in the house during the cold months.


that neck is gorgeous.


----------



## TuffyKohler

neun Arme said:


> that neck is gorgeous.



Thanks! The neck for my current ash build makes this one look almost boring...

I wasn't sure about TruOil over the wenge/paduak, but it's really growing on me.


----------



## jwade

Man I'm sold. I totally want to use Tru Oil on my 4piece wenge neck after seeing that!


----------



## TuffyKohler

A note about the wenge...

I won't use a center piece with the grain oriented the way it is in the neck pictured above. 
With that wide grain pattern, the different densities in the grain make it really hard to keep a perfect surface. With the grain all nice and tight, it's not a problem.

And a little taste of the neck for the ash body - with tight grain in the center...


----------



## BlackMastodon

That volute.


----------



## TuffyKohler

BlackMastodon said:


> That volute.



X marks the spot!!

Mostly a happy accident that it all lined up this way. I've been curious if I could do this again intentionally.


----------



## TuffyKohler

When the finish starts going on, other projects start picking up again... I can't say I try to always have something available to work on... but I always seem to have many things going on at once. I am just about at the point where I need to decide what the next build will be... what to do.. what to do.. procrastinate of course, and go work on something else.

Anyways, I've been trying to learn the intricacies of building an acoustic guitar. Many new steps to learn as compared to an electric, and I'm trying to keep this build relatively simple. Installing purfling for the first time, making a mortise and tenon neck joint with the correct neck angle... I've done the side bending, binding, and bracing on a few ukuleles, so those parts are easy...

I skipped the idea of putting a radius on the top and back of this guitar, as making a radius dish is a job in itself, which I'm leaving for acoustic guitar #2. I figure I'll progress a little further with each guitar, a similar process to the electrics I've been building, slowly adding new ideas/features as I get more skills under my belt. My first electric didn't even get it's fretboard sanded/polished...Straight from LMII, machine marks still visible. At the time, I knew I could sand a fretboard, but wasn't even sure other more important factors were good, like a straight neck, good intonation, get the action into a good area of adjustability, and essentially, just make sure the thing would be able to be played. So I skipped steps...I also didn't have a radius sanding block at the time..

So, while I could buy a bridge, that's too easy. So I'm making a test bridge out of maple to make sure I get it close before tearing into some ebony blanks.

A little rough work, and I got to here. I almost finished making a small jig to route out the slot for the saddle, that should be finished today.


----------



## geoffstgermaine

A mahogany/cocobolo Les Paul style guitar I'm working on with a cocobolo/ebony neck.


----------



## Aso

geoffstgermaine said:


> A mahogany/cocobolo Les Paul style guitar I'm working on with a cocobolo/ebony neck.



That guitar is just beautifully amazing. Very nice.


----------



## pondman

geoffstgermaine said:


> A mahogany/cocobolo Les Paul style guitar I'm working on with a cocobolo/ebony neck.



Good Lord !


----------



## neun Arme

geoffstgermaine said:


> A mahogany/cocobolo Les Paul style guitar I'm working on with a cocobolo/ebony neck.



I really want to see this finished.


----------



## The Spanish Inquisition

geoffstgermaine said:


> A mahogany/cocobolo Les Paul style guitar I'm working on with a cocobolo/ebony neck.



Please finish this solid black gloss to troll the .... out of everyone.


----------



## geoffstgermaine

Thanks for the comments, guys! I'll make sure I get some finished shots up. The necks just about to be glued in and there's little else besides finish sanding, finishing and hardware install/setup.

Cheers,
Geoff


----------



## electriceye

That is one of the wildest tops I've ever seen! It's beautiful! Great job!!!


----------



## jwade

geoffstgermaine said:


> A mahogany/cocobolo Les Paul style guitar I'm working on with a cocobolo/ebony neck.



Saw the other pictures on your company's Facebook page, it's looking really nice!


----------



## CaptainD00M

geoffstgermaine said:


> A mahogany/cocobolo Les Paul style guitar I'm working on with a cocobolo/ebony neck.



Great Odins Ravens! 

That is gorgeous both in terms of craft and wood selection.


----------



## pondman

If I don't have enough lumber, I picked these red hot beauties up at the weekend.




flame by 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/EfFSq4]

maple by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## HaMMerHeD




----------



## KnightroExpress

Ooh, that walnut/purpleheart combo is hot.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

KnightroExpress said:


> Ooh, that walnut/purpleheart combo is hot.



Thanks. I'm liking it. It will get a birdseye maple fretboard and will be mated to a body with a curly claro walnut top and maple back.


----------



## helferlain

I've started a few refinish projects:


----------



## ChAoZ

Nice work helferlain, I love the Tele - now that's what I call a gold top
Video was a great idea too as flakes are hard to capture in a photograph


----------



## geoffstgermaine

An update - finish going on:


----------



## HaMMerHeD




----------



## jwade

Where's the double like button?


----------



## Levi79

So much awesome work in this thread! And wood porn

I've been finishing up my first original design. It has a carved top Black Walnut body, a Wenge/Indian Rosewood 3 piece neck with a 100 year old reclaimed Birdseye Maple fretboard.













I also started this 7 string singlecut that will be a refined design of my very first build.


----------



## pondman

geoffstgermaine said:


> An update - finish going on:



That's a stunning piece.


----------



## geoffstgermaine

pondman said:


> That's a stunning piece.



Thanks! It's a good thing I have enough for 2 more carved tops or 4 or so slab bodies.


----------



## skeels

geoffstgermaine said:


> Thanks! It's a good thing I have enough for 2 more carved tops or 4 or so slab bodies.



You mean, like, to spare?


----------



## geoffstgermaine

skeels said:


> You mean, like, to spare?


 
Yeah, it's just hanging in my wood stash. Probably going to resaw 2 thin sets shortly. I think one's going to go on a 5 string bass.


----------



## TuffyKohler

wired this up earlier today.


----------



## geoffstgermaine

Some people had asked about seeing this guitar complete:


----------



## cwhitey2

TuffyKohler said:


> wired this up earlier today.



I must know what kind of finish this is!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## geoffstgermaine

cwhitey2 said:


> I must know what kind of finish this is!!!!!!!!!!



The top is copper.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

geoffstgermaine said:


> The top is copper.



These?

Patina Copper Veneer Stock List


----------



## geoffstgermaine

HaMMerHeD said:


> These?
> 
> Patina Copper Veneer Stock List



I can't say for sure that's what TuffyKohler used, but that would work. I've seen something similar on an Ormsby, but I think it was something like the Azul patina from the link you have.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Yup, that's the stuff.


----------



## geoffstgermaine

TuffyKohler said:


> Yup, that's the stuff.



What adhesive did you use for the copper?


----------



## TuffyKohler

I used the TC-20 adhesive sold from the same place, and clamped it with my vacuum press


----------



## Spicypickles

Have you gotten cease and desist letters from Duracell yet?


----------



## electriceye

geoffstgermaine said:


> Some people had asked about seeing this guitar complete:



Holy sh*t.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Spicypickles said:


> Have you gotten cease and desist letters from Duracell yet?



No... There's a Duracell mockup of the Ormsby copper tops though. 

props to Ormsby. The copper top was their idea.


----------



## Valco

TuffyKohler said:


> wired this up earlier today.



I've been curious about headstock designs like this and similar to it. Are they re-enforced with carbon fibre rods? If not, over time would the string tension cause the headstock to bow somewhat? 

Not being negative about the design by the way! It looks great!


----------



## TuffyKohler

no carbon reinforcements. This one is wenge, which I don't think will have any issues with handling the the string tension. The other two I've done with this shape were maple with laminates, also with no reinforcements.

There may be a Gibson-like issue if one of these were to take a fall, but I'm not building these to be dropped... I used to build model airplanes, and was taught to build them so they fly, not so they survive a crash... same idea I guess.


----------



## Taylor

Three soon to be necks:






And one soon to be top:


----------



## Cloudy

Its been busy for me lately, I have way too much stuff going right now .


----------



## pondman

geoffstgermaine said:


> Some people had asked about seeing this guitar complete:




Oh boy  That really is something !
Congrats.


----------



## jwade

Working on an Ebony fingerboard for build #6. Decided on inlays (split blocks), and just got my binding/purfling decided on finally. Gabon Ebony fb, black dyed aspen/maple/bloodwood purfling, Gabon Ebony binding:






Had a little assistant helping me decide which configuration to go with:


----------



## Taylor

Haven't started a build thread for this one yet:











Botched a tuner hole again


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Deegatron said:


> This by far is my favorite thing I've seen in this thread ever. epic cake topper!!!!



Thanks! I'm pretty happy with how it turned out.

Here's the whole cake:


----------



## Knarbens

Taylor said:


> Three soon to be necks:



Dude! Is that a Macassar neck?


----------



## Taylor

Yep!


----------



## Walterson

My parental leave is slowly comming to an end.....


----------



## XxJoshxX

Walterson said:


> My parental leave is slowly comming to an end.....


Walterson is back and better than ever!


----------



## BlackMastodon

He is risen.


----------



## TuffyKohler

^^^
Those are sick. 

A little 3 day distraction. Still needs a pickup I think.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Walterson said:


> My parental leave is slowly comming to an end.....



Yeah... your "do or do not" quote at the bottom of your posts pretty much sums it up. Love it. What do you plan to finish this guitar with?


----------



## mnemonic

Now that is a really nice looking V.


----------



## jwade

That is one of the most metal V shapes I've ever seen. Love it.


----------



## Metallipea

Specs of my new beauty:

-set neck
-25" scale
-Sapele body
-Flamed maple top
-Ebony fretboard
-Maple/Ebony binding all around
-Maple/Ebony accents 
-BKP Nailbomb bridge PUP
-BKP Irish Tour neck PUP
-24 frets
-Schaller locking tuners and piezo TOM bridge
-String-thru
-Black Ice distortion option
-2 vol, one tone setup
-String-thru custom block (bolt together)



























Feel free to share ideas, what would you like to see on this type of guitar  PM me if you have any


----------



## jwade

I hope you're planning to do recessed vol/tone knobs.


----------



## Metallipea

jwade said:


> I hope you're planning to do recessed vol/tone knobs.



Yes of course


----------



## pondman

Really cool work,loving that slick shape.


----------



## Metallipea

pondman said:


> Really cool work,loving that slick shape.



Thanks man, you can read more about it in My blog


----------



## HaMMerHeD




----------



## ChAoZ

Making a travel guitar from bits lying around, repaired Ibanez prestige neck and Paduak body
=



[/URL][/IMG]


----------



## The Spanish Inquisition

ChAoZ said:


> Making a travel guitar from bits lying around, repaired Ibanez prestige neck and Paduak body
> =
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL][/IMG]



Oh my god that is actually cool.


----------



## Pikka Bird

Seen this?:


----------



## HaMMerHeD




----------



## HaMMerHeD

Here's the back side of that body.


----------



## Stompmeister

sweet jesus that neck mate. beautiful joinery


----------



## BlackMastodon

^This. Also that has got to be the tightest controls cover I've ever seen.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

BlackMastodon said:


> ^This. Also that has got to be the tightest controls cover I've ever seen.



It is a tight fit. When I designed the templates, I made the cover plate template a 0.25mm smaller contour of the cavity template, and had them cut out on a friend's CNC machine.


----------



## Walterson

XxJoshxX said:


> Walterson is back and better than ever!





BlackMastodon said:


> He is risen.





DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Yeah... your "do or do not" quote at the bottom of your posts pretty much sums it up. Love it. What do you plan to finish this guitar with?





jwade said:


> That is one of the most metal V shapes I've ever seen. Love it.



Thanks a lot guys!  The guitar is pretty much done, some tweaking here an there but thats it. It's finished with an black tinted hardening oil.

Expect a "New (Home Build) Guitar Thread" very soon....


----------



## VEGA CUSTOM

: Eek:
Sexy.....aggressive....i love it.


----------



## Walterson

VEGA CUSTOM said:


> : Eek:
> Sexy.....aggressive....i love it.



Thanks!

There you go:
http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/se...-string-fanned-fret-flying-v.html#post4573769


----------



## jwade

Iceman 7 / RG-ish 8 necks ready to carve on Wednesday.


----------



## Walterson

jwade said:


> Iceman 7 / RG-ish 8 necks ready to carve on Wednesday.



To me they look very well made, as far as I can tell from those pictures.


----------



## HaMMerHeD




----------



## VEGA CUSTOM

Oh my goodness...........
It is one of the most beautiful guitars I've seen 
Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
¿Address construction in the forum?


----------



## HaMMerHeD

VEGA CUSTOM said:


> Oh my goodness...........
> It is one of the most beautiful guitars I've seen
> Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> ¿Address construction in the forum?



Thanks!

I have a photolog here: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

One so inclined should be able to piece together the steps.


----------



## Levi79

Damn, no shortage of talent around here that's for sure!

Recently got this prototype finished, but its still on my bench as the wiring is giving me some trouble. The last one I did was no problem but has anyone else had problems grounding a Hannes bridge guitar? I've tried a lot of things to get the guitar properly grounded with no luck, if anyone is a wiring genius or had a similar problem I would be much appreciative of a PM! I'll get it eventually, haha. 

Absolutely loving how the first "Dissentient" turned out otherwise. 









Abalone mountains with MOP snow and a Redwood sun at the 12th fret.

Also been building this chambered guitar for the bass player in my band, pretty excited about how it's turning out!


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

HaMMerHeD said:


> Thanks!
> 
> I have a photolog here: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
> 
> One so inclined should be able to piece together the steps.



Man, awesome build album. Always great to see the way things came together.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

^^^Absolutely love that 6 string single cut above... so classy.

Finally getting somewhere with my 5 string bass.


----------



## djohns74

Nothing fancy here, just finishing up a replacement body for my old '92 RG550 that had like 4 different layers of paint on it and was just too much of a mess to salvage. I had painted it a basic yellow more than 10 years ago before I had either a clue about painting, proper equipment or the right space to do it in. So my original thought was to strip it and try to get something closer to the original desert sun yellow which some moron painted over with flat white before I bought it.

The new body is made from tempered basswood, which tonewood nuts will tell you sounds amazing, but which I picked out because it is supposed to be lightweight and very easy to work. It is absolutely both of those things, though also dings fairly easily, so it's a trade-off. Side note, this is actually the first top-routed body that I've built, so there's that. Interestingly, the control cavity area of the route is virtually identical to that on Ibanez's rear route models, so I already had a template for that part. Bonus!

The paint is an experiment with an arts and crafts product I found on Amazon which arrives in powder form and seems to mix into clear nitro just fine, resulting in a translucent fluorescent yellow color. Here it is sprayed over a piece of scrap wood that I had previously painted white just to see what it would look like.






It's a very hard color to photograph accurately, suffice it to say that it's a lot brighter in person and frankly has a slight green component to it which doesn't look right to me. So I decided to try a different base color, this time a white with a fairly small amount of yellow pigment mixed in. This color, by itself, is actually rather pastely and kind of gross (sorry, don't have a picture), but I figured, what the heck. Here's how it looks with a couple of coats of the fluorescent over it.






This seems decent to me so I think I'll go with it. Almost certainly going to go satin clear for the final instrument, partly as an experiment, partly because I hate polishing gloss lacquer.


----------



## helferlain

Going to move to a new home without a workshop this summer. This is the countdown to quit guitar building. 2 full guitars an a replacement body for my Agile Intrepid 828:


----------



## broj15

Replaced the All Parts YM-30 in my RG570 for the *THIRD TIME IN LESS THAN A YEAR* last night. Which leads me to this question: Do All Parts switches suck? Am I just too hard on my switches? Or was I just unlucky enough to get 3 lemons in a row? If anyone has any suggestions for an import size 3 way blade switch I'm all ears because this is getting ridiculous.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

helferlain said:


> Going to move to a new home without a workshop this summer. This is the countdown to quit guitar building. 2 full guitars an a replacement body for my Agile Intrepid 828:



Well hey man, I don't have a "workshop" per se, I do all my builds out of my home garage, right on about a 16 sq ft. work bench in the corner of the garage. I just have to take the time to set it up for different methods as I go on to different steps in the build. A little tedious but gets the job done. If you can build a full guitar, I'm sure you're clever enough to work out a good build area at your new place. Just look at what's avaliable and think out the possibilities and jigs you could impliment.


----------



## Taylor

Levi79 said:


> Also been building this chambered guitar for the bass player in my band, pretty excited about how it's turning out!



Looks nice! What's the fretboard wood on that?


----------



## Levi79

Taylor said:


> Looks nice! What's the fretboard wood on that?



It's a piece of Gaboon Ebony. Went through a pile of about 150 pieces and this was the only one like it.


----------



## Taylor

Levi79 said:


> It's a piece of Gaboon Ebony. Went through a pile of about 150 pieces and this was the only one like it.



Looks great!


----------



## J_Mac

What an awesome body of work in this thread  *drool*

Workbenches though, mine is crap. Has anyone got a simple design for a sturdy workbench?


----------



## djohns74

J_Mac said:


> Workbenches though, mine is crap. Has anyone got a simple design for a sturdy workbench?


Free work bench plans and instructions. Imperial version

Here's what I used about 7-8 years ago. I made mine 7 ft wide rather than 6 and it's been pretty much rock solid ever since. Am strongly considering building another smaller one with a similar design, if I can just clear enough space in the basement.


----------



## HaMMerHeD




----------



## TuffyKohler

^^ -- looking really nice!

I made up a 'tone block' for a Tele I'm putting together. I'm trying a couple things, and made this body out of basswood. 
(Also because my string through ferrules always seems to be just a bit off)






And my second body with a lacquer finish. The clear coat was sprayed yesterday. It will hang for a month before its ready for sanding.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

HaMMerHeD said:


>



That's such a nice wood combination... I'm guessing walnut, purpleheart and maple?


----------



## HaMMerHeD

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> That's such a nice wood combination... I'm guessing walnut, purpleheart and maple?



Yep. And a Birdseye maple fretboard.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

HaMMerHeD said:


> Yep. And a Birdseye maple fretboard.



Awesome, bonus pics!!!


----------



## helferlain

Custom 8-string pickups:






Replacement body for my Agile Intrepid 828






Black ash body






Cherry body






wenge/ebony & maple/grenadillo neck:


----------



## HaMMerHeD

While cleaning up the shop, I found this guy:







WTB new house, since mine tragically burned down.


----------



## Taylor

HaMMerHeD said:


> WTB new house, since mine tragically burned down.



Only reasonable response. Well that or letting it bite you and hoping for super powers


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Taylor said:


> Only reasonable response. Well that or letting it bite you and hoping for super powers



Only if necrosis, nausea, vomiting, and chest pain are super powers.


----------



## feraledge

Nothing on the workbench, but finally have a workbench! Hurrah! 
All sand paper and fretting tools in the shelf. Very happy with my "waiting room" guitar hanger on the shelf to the right. About time for a new soldering iron though.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

She gets her wings tomorrow...


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Hello everyone! So I've got some rather unsightly wax that has worked itself into the pores of this walnut top, and for the life of me, I can't get that .... out of there.






I've tried scrubbing with:

Naphtha, acetone, denatured alcohol, rubbing alcohol, turpentine, MEK, lacquer thinner, mineral spirits, white vinegar

Using:

paper towels, cotton rags, fine-bristle toothbrush, wire brush, nylong spray-gun cleaning brush, 3m scotchbrite pads (220 and 600 grit), and steel wool

And nothing seems to be helping. When the surface is wet with some solvent, the wax disappears, but when the solvent evaporates, they show up again. The wax deposits telegraph through the finish as bright white dots.

And yes, I've tried sandpaper and cabinet scrapers too. The pores are apparently pretty deep, and I don't think I can sand it out without taking off more material than I am comfortable losing.

Thoughts?

Thanks!


----------



## metaldoggie

Have you tried putting a paper towel on it then using an iron to heat it?
Maybe that would draw the liquid wax into the paper towel?


----------



## UnderTheSign

Yeah, try to melt the wax so you can get it out with a paper towel or maybe even vacuum it out?


----------



## HaMMerHeD

My concern with using heat is that it is carnauba wax, which has a pretty high melting temperature (for wax), which is close to the de-bonding temperature of Titebond original.

At any rate, the wax is taken care of now. A bronze shotgun bore brush and some Rem-oil took care of it, with lacquer thinner to clean up the gun oil.


----------



## TuffyKohler

I finished building this last Christmas, but I keep redoing the finish. This is the third and final finish. 

I need to pick up some 500k pots and make a nut, and it's all done.


----------



## Cloudy

Working on a few goodies right now




Just finished carving the rosewood neck for this body





Also building an RG7 style guitar for a friend of mine, going to be swirling this one










Excuse my ultra blurry iphone photos, dont like bringing my good camera into the shop


----------



## jwade

Here's a few shots of an unidentified back and sides set I obtained at the same time I procured a Brazilian rosewood back and sides set + Brazilian rosewood fingerboard. Pictures of that in the very near future. But first, unidentified set, any thoughts on what it might be?


----------



## electriceye

TuffyKohler said:


> I finished building this last Christmas, but I keep redoing the finish. This is the third and final finish.
> 
> I need to pick up some 500k pots and make a nut, and it's all done.



LOVE the flamed redwood!! I've been eyeing tops like that for a while. Some day...some day...


----------



## JYNX2

progress on a 7 string


----------



## Deegatron

is that an autobots symbol on the headstock?
Hash tag .... yeah!


----------



## Cloudy

Going to be swirling this body, very excited to see how the suhr modern-esq shape works with an ibanez style swirl.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Double post


----------



## BlackMastodon

jwade said:


> Here's a few shots of an unidentified back and sides set I obtained at the same time I procured a Brazilian rosewood back and sides set + Brazilian rosewood fingerboard. Pictures of that in the very near future. But first, unidentified set, any thoughts on what it might be?


Claro walnut?

Looks similar to these pieces:
http://tonewood.com/guitar-wood/solid-body-electric-guitar-woods/claro-walnut-top-sets.html


----------



## Hywel

Some very cool stuff going on in this thread!

I've started winding my own pickups with a £30 hand cranked winder.

I wound a set of vintage-ish humbuckers for my walnut build as a start.

The neck is 42AWG poly wound to about 7.4k and a slight asymmetry in the coils and the bridge is 42.5AWG (0.06mm) wound to 9.2k (although I was aiming for ~9.8k) with a similar offset.

I started off getting the wire in the DIY tensioner.






Stuck the bobbin to the winder with double stick tape and wound it up.











Takes about 15-20 minutes to wind a coil. Once the lead wires are soldered on and everything's attached to the base plate it's ready to go!
















I don't think I'll be a threat to BKP any time soon but I think they came out well and sound nowhere near as bad as I expected!


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Nice. I'm gonna try winding my own pickups pretty soon.


----------



## Hywel

HaMMerHeD said:


> Nice. I'm gonna try winding my own pickups pretty soon.



It's definitely worth giving it a go. The winding is a pretty chill way to spend an hour or so and I can definitely see tweaking the character of each pickup becoming a bit additive. Bonus is once you've got the hang of it, you can make pickups for any instrument you want. 10 string fanned fret with P90's? Sorted!


----------



## BlackMastodon

Went to pick up some wood for shelves today and came home with these pieces:







We were about to leave before I saw those 2 small pieces of walnut and couldn't leave them behind. The long piece is also walnut, and the awesome shorter piece in the back was called Chechen, which is also known as Caribbean rosewood and the grain patterns/colours on it look awesome! (also the darker spots on all the wood are from rain while carrying it inside)

Here's a closeup of the Chechen:






And here are the 2 walnut pieces that I will use to hold up the longer walnut slab as a shelf:






I can't wait to sand them up and oil them.

The Chechen rosewood will be used for a "shelf" type project for the bathroom that was my girlfriend's idea. We're going to screw the wood to the wall, then attach some hanging mason jars to it using metal strapping.

I plan to drill into the smaller walnut pieces on an angle using a Kreg jig or something from the top so it's nice and hidden by the actual walnut 

I'll post some finished pictures when they're done.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Sanded, drilled, and cleaned up. Oiling all the wood currently but here's some progress on the walnut:


----------



## TruckstopChuckie

This. One of the newer RG7420. Swirl project.




Meanwhile, waiting for the enamel paint and borax, time to take the looks of the neck up a few notches.

While most people playing superstrats tend to like their necks super smooth and satin, I like my necks something between satin and super glossy. Glossy, but without it getting too sticky. My K7 neck is quite perfect, being just that. Glossy, but still feels fast (enough for me). That feeling a lot of necks get after hours of playing.

Here's the RG neck after about three super thin layers of tru-oil. Another great aspect of the tru-oil is how it brings out the figuring in the wood, even on a cheap neck like this.


----------



## Randy

Project I'm working on for a friend of mine

1967 Fender Jazz Bass that's seen better days. He bought it brand new, played it for years and then during a quiet time in his career, it was parked in his basement where the dampness wreaked havok on it. 

The primary issue that got it to this level of disrepair was the action being high. Since then, it's ping-ponged around all the local repair shops who all called it a lost cause. MOST of the delamination and the missing fretboard is because one of the shops believed the neck was "twisted" and steamed THE ENTIRE GUITAR in a effort to make the neck pliable, which had the unforeseen effect causing the seems in the body to appear and causing one piece on the lower horn to fall off completely!

Anyway, the plan isn't a full restoration. I'm primarily looking to get this back to playable/stable and retain SOME of the appearance it originally had (block inlays, bound fretboard, etc). 

I looked the neck over every way possible and it is absolutely not twisted at all. It looks like it needed a bit of relief that'd normally be within the range of a truss rod adjustment but I'm guessing the truss rod MAY have been non-responsive considering it was rusted pretty solid when I pulled it out. I'm planning on replacing it with a modern, stainless steel, dual action truss rod.

Interesting thing about this era Jazz Bass (early CBS era) is that the radius is carved out of the neck and the fretboard was just a veneer (~1/8" thick) on top of it. I intend on shaving it down enough to install a proper thickness fretboard to help with future stability.


----------



## electriceye

They steamed the entire guitar!!! I'm a newbie at this stuff, but even I know that's asinine! Wow! 

Really looking forward to what you can do with it.


----------



## ChAoZ

I made a T style body for a mate who wasn't liking the shape of his DeArmond SG, Sapele body widened 10mm to keep it in proportion for the extra string, with an unusual flame maple top, he's finishing it himself the stain turned out wicked and Tru-Oil coats are going down


----------



## MoonJelly

Wow, Randy, that poor bass. I once played a '69 strat that had the same neck construction, with just the rosewood veneer laid over a radiused maple neck. It was the only one I'd ever seen like that, before your example. 

Good luck on the neck resto!


----------



## Taylor

I drew up a body shape for a multiscale headless 8 string a while ago. I finally got around to cutting out a template for it. I tweaked the shape so many times I don't even remember what the original planned shape looked like. And, now that it is all cut and smoothed out, I think I need to start over


----------



## MaximilianD

I think I'm far enough through this build to post a picture now.

Specs:
7 String Single Cut
25.5" scale w/ 20" radius
Hipshot hardware
Single BKP Juggernaut (bridge) - Yet to rout
Laminated Swamp Ash/Ebony/Padauk/Rosewood body
5 piece laminated Maple/Padauk/Rosewood neck
Maple fretboard
Multi-colour stabilized Buckeye Burl bookmatched top and matching headstock
Luminlay and glow in the dark resin everywhere (including void fills in buckeye)
Hexagon shaped inlays with luminescent overlapping hexagons based around the 12th fret.
Maple fretboard binding, black binding on body.


----------



## Randy

Killer inlay.


----------



## neun Arme

Killer guitar!


----------



## Pikka Bird

Randy said:


> Interesting thing about this era Jazz Bass (early CBS era) is that the radius is carved out of the neck and the fretboard was just a veneer.



A few Fender models without neck binding had this too. It looks positively bizarre looking at one of those from the side when there's no binding to hide the shortcut.


----------



## Deegatron

Max,
I too am a fan of that inlay. marvelous!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

doing some test stains.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Max, that guitar looks incredible! Great job!

K, last of my non-guitar related posts I swear.

Finished up the bathroom "shelf" over the week and she's holding steady:


----------



## pondman

This'll be on my work bench in about 12 months time. Took a big Sycamore down with some nice ripple inside. 



DSC_0152 by 

[url=https://flic.kr/p/Nkp6e5]

DSC_0150 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## HaMMerHeD

BlackMastodon,

Chechen is really nice stuff. It finishes nicely. You get lots of colors and textures. It's also plenty hard and stable for Fretboards.


----------



## Taylor

Redid my template from earlier, I think it looks better.











Next up on the workbench will be my DIY pickup winder.


----------



## BlackMastodon

HaMMerHeD said:


> BlackMastodon,
> 
> Chechen is really nice stuff. It finishes nicely. You get lots of colors and textures. It's also plenty hard and stable for Fretboards.


That was the first thing I thought when I picked it up, it would make for a really interesting fretboard.


----------



## Taylor

My DIY pickup winder:






It's not much to look at, and it's still going to need some tweaking but I'm pretty happy with it.

Some more projects (I got bored last night):












Might use the flamed maple for guitar necks, though I do need a couple of nice shelves for my bedroom. Decisions...


----------



## Purelojik

Hey all,

I had an urge to build a Sevenstring and realized it was nearly 5 years ago when i built my first real guitar which was also a sevenstring. I documented everything (over documented actually) here. I also learned everything from this forum. Its been a really interesting ride where everyone whos followed the progress knows i've been doing this on my free time while studying for the boards and trying to get into residency. I completed my first year of internal medicine this past year and moved to Las Vegas by chance for my second and third year. One more year and i'll be independent! Anyways I thought i'd show you guys what i've been up to. I document on my blog as usual and i'll upload a few pictures here and there. 

Link to the Blog for HQ shots


























EDIT: Man it must be a while, none of my imgur links will work..


----------



## MikeNeal

practicing carving tops on this purpleheart number





slotting a walnut fretboard with my new slotting jig





Mockup





Also made a neck for an upcoming 8 string. it's a padauk fretboard on a wenge neck with a walnut headstock


----------



## XxJoshxX

Still gotta clean up the purfling and make it look a bit more circular.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Looks awesome, Josh! What material did you use for that?

Also @Purelojik, yeah Imgur threw a fit at other sites using the images hosted on their site a little while ago.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Been building a couple Telecasters, and tried out a Swinger body shape. Just got it all soldered up last night. Still needs a setup, but is otherwise done.


----------



## VEGA CUSTOM

in process..............


----------



## VEGA CUSTOM

I am sorry.....
I do not know how to put the big pictures


----------



## BlackMastodon

VEGA CUSTOM said:


> I am sorry.....
> I do not know how to put the big pictures


Host them on a site like photobucket.com and then embed them in a post with the Insert Image button.

That's an awesome pickguard by the way!


----------



## VEGA CUSTOM

Thanks!!!!!!!


----------



## Deegatron

Victory....
that's what's on my workbench....
this guitar was supposed to be a quick whip together for the niece... it's turned into an absolute horror and has fought me along every curve of the way...
Let's just say I was supposed to be finished this and another before Christmas.....
That is indeed the 2nd fretboard... and yeah I had to stop for a month to wait for a new stewmac order as Im incapable of basic math / ordering enough fretwire....


----------



## jwade




----------



## ChAoZ

This is my favourite thread on the forum,here's a couple of pics of my latest build, Ash body, Wenge/Bubinga neck, hipshot hardware, SD Nazgul


----------



## Taylor

Got a Suform for Christmas, finally got around to using it. It gets the job done!


----------



## wrtp

didn't want to make a new thread so I thought I will ask here 

have seen many that print out the fret positions on paper and stick it on the fretboard
any link to a program for printing it and on what paper to you print it .I know of http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/ but I am looking for something with a line in the middle of the freatboard so it is easier for me to position 

if there is a thread for this please tell me


----------



## Pikka Bird

When you print download your fretfind2d template as PDF there's a center line on it. Be sure to print it in actual size (measure the scale length with a ruler after it's printed to confirm)


----------



## wrtp

oh thanks!
what type of paper do you print this on?
a3 is small


----------



## Infernal_Death

Working on a Stealth and a KingV right now. Here is a pic:






Flo


----------



## Pikka Bird

wrtp said:


> oh thanks!
> what type of paper do you print this on?
> a3 is small



If you don't have access to a continuois feed printer (and who does, really?) then just use multiple A4 pages and use the included guide marks to tape the pages together. There are crosses in the corners of each page that aren't too difficult to line up.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Pikka Bird said:


> If you don't have access to a continuois feed printer (and who does, really?) then just use multiple A4 pages and use the included guide marks to tape the pages together. There are crosses in the corners of each page that aren't too difficult to line up.



another option is find a print shop like a kinkos. that's where I go for my fretboard templates.


----------



## j3ps3

I've been getting so much crap for playing an 8-string that I decided to go with 4 strings for my second build. 
Inspired by Wes Borland's Cremona. Maple neck with pau ferro fretboard and alder body. 
30" scale and the tuning will be F-F-Bb-Eb


----------



## Taylor

Infernal_Death said:


> Working on a Stealth and a KingV right now. Here is a pic:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flo



More pics please!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Headless Ergo-Superstrat.






I thought I'd try working with oak. Now I don't like oak anymore.


----------



## electriceye

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Headless Ergo-Superstrat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I'd try working with oak. Now I don't like oak anymore.



That thing is going to weigh a ton and not sound so great.


----------



## MrYakob

Making some decent progress on build number two. Trem and Pup cavities are up next for this guy.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

electriceye said:


> That thing is going to weigh a ton and not sound so great.



It is headless and thin, so it shouldn't weigh too much. The sound... Well, we'll see. This is my second guitar only so I'll settle for "playable". I won't do oak again though. Way too coarse grained for a machining newbie like myself.


----------



## MoonJelly

I recently did a build in oak, it wasn't too heavy but I had to plane the body pretty thin. It was 1 1/2"-1 5/8" thick and a smallish tele type body. 

Also it was really hard to smooth the grain out so I used a textured paint to cover it all up. Frustrating build.






Anyway, my current project:


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

How did the oak sound? I assume sort of like maple?


----------



## MoonJelly

The sound I get out of it is a pretty mainstream-ish over-wound PAF type. I used EMG pickups because the wiring was really easy and I wasn't super confident in my soldering abilities yet. I'm not sure I noticed a stark difference in the sound over the mahogany/maple I've worked on in the past, though.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

i got bored.


----------



## getowned7474

KnightBrolaire said:


> i got bored.



Wow that looks really sick, nice job!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

getowned7474 said:


> Wow that looks really sick, nice job!



thanks, the top was really nice but I didn't really want a natural one, so I refinished it  It was a lot of fun doing the fade. Probably my favorite part of tinkering/building guitars.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

After a little break from building I finally pulled out this fretless bass I started months ago, ordered a large Music Man style pup for it today and leveled the fingerboard, the pickup should arrive in a week or so, I'll try to knock out a few more steps in this thing soon.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Picked up a nice cocobolo board off ebay. I have no idea what I'm going to do with it currently. Guess I'll wait and pick up a couple more boards to build something with.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Just built a pin router jig for my router table, complete with a fresh new upcut spiral bit. I can already tell this is going to work better than my template bits, though I'll have to be careful with calibration.






I want to do a 1/2" one next (this is 1/4").


----------



## electriceye

I love that pin router jig!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Thanks! I based the design off a YouTube video (pretty much the first one you find if you search "diy pin router") and it works great. He uses a set screw but my pin fits snugly enough in the arm that I haven't needed one yet. 

If/when I make a 1/2 inch one I'm going to build a bigger jig to clamp into the table in place of the fence (rather than clamping to the existing fence) for extra rigidity.


----------



## geoffstgermaine

electriceye said:


> That thing is going to weigh a ton and not sound so great.



I'm not sure I follow why you'd say that. Oak is certainly not an ultralight wood, but it is pretty middle of the road in terms of density (similar to hard maple at about 44 lbs/bd ft). Sound wise I suppose it depends how much you buy into the body woods impact on tone in an electric instrument, but Oak is definitely used successfully in some high end acoustic guitar makes instruments for backs and sides.


----------



## electriceye

geoffstgermaine said:


> I'm not sure I follow why you'd say that. Oak is certainly not an ultralight wood, but it is pretty middle of the road in terms of density (similar to hard maple at about 44 lbs/bd ft). Sound wise I suppose it depends how much you buy into the body woods impact on tone in an electric instrument, but Oak is definitely used successfully in some high end acoustic guitar makes instruments for backs and sides.



I say that only because it's one of the heavier woods and not typically used in electrics (outside of goofy Home Depot build challenges. ) There has to be SOME reason why it's not used. Weight.


----------



## electriceye

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Thanks! I based the design off a YouTube video (pretty much the first one you find if you search "diy pin router") and it works great. He uses a set screw but my pin fits snugly enough in the arm that I haven't needed one yet.
> 
> If/when I make a 1/2 inch one I'm going to build a bigger jig to clamp into the table in place of the fence (rather than clamping to the existing fence) for extra rigidity.



That's really cool. One thing I'd LOVE to have is a pin duplicator. That way, carving a neck and such would be a cinch! I've seen them, they just seem to be quite pricey.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

electriceye said:


> That's really cool. One thing I'd LOVE to have is a pin duplicator. That way, carving a neck and such would be a cinch! I've seen them, they just seem to be quite pricey.



I'll bet it would be DIY-able, but definitely more challenging than this.


----------



## electriceye

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I'll bet it would be DIY-able, but definitely more challenging than this.



It's taken me over a year just to build my thickness sander. And it's STILL not done. I ain't doing that. LOL


----------



## geoffstgermaine

electriceye said:


> I say that only because it's one of the heavier woods and not typically used in electrics (outside of goofy Home Depot build challenges. ) There has to be SOME reason why it's not used. Weight.


 
I think that the thinking that because a wood is not often used it must be unsuitable is a trap that happens with guitar building. As I already stated, the weight is middle of the road and there are a lot of guitars build with bodies that use denser woods. The density of many "tonewoods" overlaps the density of red oak.

A lot of what is deemed tonewood is only so-called because some major manufacturer popularized it. There are certainly woods that may be unsuitable for building, but this certainly can't be determined by it's been seen in commercial use. Besides, seen a $10K Fodera bass with a red oak neck, so someone's using it.


----------



## MoonJelly

^One thing I learned doing a 'goofy Home Depot build' is that oak makes a fantastic fretboard material. Having built a guitar body with it as well, I don't think it's off-limits for a few necks in my future, either. It's really no more cumbersome to handle or work with than several harder (and heavier!) woods I've used in the past...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I've had some problems with tearout routing oak vs poplar or maple. Might just be bad luck though.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

brian may's red special had an oak body and fretboard...


----------



## MrYakob

My hardware came in the mail yesterday so I couldn't help but do a quick mockup. Final product will be either Seafoam green or Purple but I can't paint until spring due to the freezing weather here


----------



## KnightBrolaire

MrYakob said:


> My hardware came in the mail yesterday so I couldn't help but do a quick mockup. Final product will be either Seafoam green or Purple but I can't paint until spring due to the freezing weather here



seafoam green would look killer. then again purple could be awesome depending on the hue. I feel your pain about painting- I basically can't do any guitar work due to the cold.

I forgot to show you guys what the strandberg looks like all set up ->


----------



## electriceye

Here's the beginning of a KK Downing Gibson V replica. My very first build ever.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Took the learnings from my quarter inch pin router jig and built a bigger, badder one. This is half inch with a long arm, and it clamps directly to the table instead of to my somewhat flimsy fence. I had to raise up my table too (the hard board pieces) because the bit was too long. 






This thing RIPS. It is rock solid and chews through hardwood like nobody's business. Can't wait to rout my next body. I think it is jem time...


----------



## Walshy

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Took the learnings from my quarter inch pin router jig and built a bigger, badder one. This is half inch with a long arm, and it clamps directly to the table instead of to my somewhat flimsy fence. I had to raise up my table too (the hard board pieces) because the bit was too long.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This thing RIPS. It is rock solid and chews through hardwood like nobody's business. Can't wait to rout my next body. I think it is jem time...



Can you please give some insight into how this works and how you built it? I've heard pin routers can save a lot of time but not sure if it's worth me making one or just making do with my router table/templates for now.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Walshy said:


> Can you please give some insight into how this works and how you built it? I've heard pin routers can save a lot of time but not sure if it's worth me making one or just making do with my router table/templates for now.



Yeah! This does a great job of explaining it all:
https://youtu.be/dody6pnrUuI

But basically you use a normal router bit, and you mount a metal rod of the same diameter directly over the bit. That way you can stick templates to the top of the workpiece and use the rod as a guide while the bit cuts the opposite (bottom) side of the workpiece. 

The advantages are:
- you can use a normal cutting bit (without a bearing on it). This can mean cheaper or better or whatever. 
- you don't risk damaging your templates with the bit, because the bit doesn't contact the template at all. 
- you can cut at whatever depth you want without worrying about your bearing contacting the template. This is the problem that convinced me to build one. 

It was very very easy to build the quarter inch one. I basically did what the video above shows, though I didn't even use a set screw. Friction was enough.

My new half inch one was a little more involved since it clamps to the table rather than the fence. The hardest part here was making sure the hole I drilled in the arm for the rod was perpendicular to the table. To do this I just planed the three pieces of lumber on both top and bottom so they'd all line up square. 

The half inch is wayyyyyyy better than the quarter, by the way. It is just a ton more rigid. But the quarter is easy to build in an hour or two and try out. And still good for small jobs. 

I hope that makes sense.


----------



## IGC

Hello everyone, new here and to guitar making. Thought it might be interesting to share some pics.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

IGC said:


> Hello everyone, new here and to guitar making. Thought it might be interesting to share some pics.



a 9 string? cool. I dig the inlay idea.


----------



## IGC

KnightBrolaire said:


> a 9 string? cool. I dig the inlay idea.


Yep it's a 9 string 28 by 30 inch ER, thanks for the compliment on the inlay idea, it was a lot of work!


----------



## electriceye

KnightBrolaire said:


> a 9 string? cool. I dig the inlay idea.



Agreed! What a beautiful idea!


----------



## IGC

electriceye said:


> Agreed! What a beautiful idea!



Thank you thankyou!


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Yeah! This does a great job of explaining it all:
> https://youtu.be/dody6pnrUuI
> 
> But basically you use a normal router bit, and you mount a metal rod of the same diameter directly over the bit. That way you can stick templates to the top of the workpiece and use the rod as a guide while the bit cuts the opposite (bottom) side of the workpiece.
> 
> The advantages are:
> - you can use a normal cutting bit (without a bearing on it). This can mean cheaper or better or whatever.
> - you don't risk damaging your templates with the bit, because the bit doesn't contact the template at all.
> - you can cut at whatever depth you want without worrying about your bearing contacting the template. This is the problem that convinced me to build one.
> 
> It was very very easy to build the quarter inch one. I basically did what the video above shows, though I didn't even use a set screw. Friction was enough.
> 
> My new half inch one was a little more involved since it clamps to the table rather than the fence. The hardest part here was making sure the hole I drilled in the arm for the rod was perpendicular to the table. To do this I just planed the three pieces of lumber on both top and bottom so they'd all line up square.
> 
> The half inch is wayyyyyyy better than the quarter, by the way. It is just a ton more rigid. But the quarter is easy to build in an hour or two and try out. And still good for small jobs.
> 
> I hope that makes sense.



Very interesting stuff. I have thought for a while about doing something to my template routing situation to make it more efficient. There are two things I see here that are really cool for sure. One is that you could utilize this method along with traditional template and bearing routing to hugely reduce the amount of tear out. You'd be able to hit the grain in a good direction around the entire body without having to invest in reverse rotation routing bits and modding your router. Second is that it seems super easy to set up. I live in Florida, and wood stored indoors is able to be kept fairly stable, but for this thing sitting in my garage year round, I could set it up perfect today and use it a month from now and that main arm at the top may have bowed... it would be super simple to just un-clamp it, shift the arm so the pin is back over the bit and go from there.

I may just have to go mess around in the garage for a few hours and see if one of these things appears...


----------



## MoonJelly

A fretboard of ribbon oak






A couple of V's I've been letting sit for 2 years





A cryptic message about the scale length:





A new V I'm building for real money 









The shape has been improved, I think. Plus it fits like a glove in a semihollow case!


----------



## IGC

Very cool and unique, can't wait to see the end results. Any plans for stain or finishing yet?


----------



## MoonJelly

Red to black fade, similar to the PRS dragon's breath stain, but less orange than some examples I've seen. More of a blood-red (of course!)
There will be an angel-steppish maple top over the neck/wings.
Gloss finish. 








The other two V's (I call them Valkyries) are totally up in the air, though. One will maybe be a charcoal gray (satin finish)


----------



## IGC

MoonJelly said:


> Red to black fade, similar to the PRS dragon's breath stain, but less orange than some examples I've seen. More of a blood-red (of course!)
> There will be an angel-steppish maple top over the neck/wings.
> Gloss finish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other two V's (I call them Valkyries) are totally up in the air, though. One will maybe be a charcoal gray (satin finish)



Dude, those guitars are gonna pop! Sorry if you all ready mentioned, are you an avid builder? It looks like your a pretty well rounded/experienced craftsman. Have a website?


----------



## MoonJelly

As of now I'm just an avid _amateur_ craftsman 
I have about a dozen projects I'm aiming to finish this year. Depending how it goes I may take a few steps toward making it 'legit' year next. So, no website yet...thanks for the props, though!


----------



## Lemonbaby

Last week I finished my SC245 semi-hollow and continued working on my first 7-string guitar. As I wanted to build without tropical woods this time, I selected european walnut for the body, oak/maple/oak for the neck and flamed hornbeam for the fretboard. This one's going to be multiscale with ABM single string bridges and locking Hipshot Open Gear tuners.


----------



## IGC

Lemonbaby said:


> Last week I finished my SC245 semi-hollow and continued working on my first 7-string guitar. As I wanted to build without tropical woods this time, I selected european walnut for the body, oak/maple/oak for the neck and flamed hornbeam for the fretboard. This one's going to be multiscale with ABM single string bridges and locking Hipshot Open Gear tuners.



Nice! More pics please!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I made a video of my pin router jig. I posted it in my build thread, but why not put it here too?


----------



## neun Arme

Lemonbaby said:


> Last week I finished my SC245 semi-hollow and continued working on my first 7-string guitar. As I wanted to build without tropical woods this time, I selected european walnut for the body, oak/maple/oak for the neck and flamed hornbeam for the fretboard. This one's going to be multiscale with ABM single string bridges and locking Hipshot Open Gear tuners.


I like that, I wanna see more.


----------



## rich_chaffins

Hey, guys! Some great looking stuff on the thread!
Here's what's on my bench this week. Took my first foray into stainless steel frets this week. Man, those things are HARD!


----------



## Lemonbaby

rich_chaffins said:


> Here's what's on my bench this week. Took my first foray into stainless steel frets this week. Man, those things are HARD!



Is that a cherry top on your Tele? Whatever it is - i like it! 

Regarding the stainless steel frets: what tools do you use? I still use 18% nickel because I'm too afraid to ruin my tools.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Lemonbaby said:


> Is that a cherry top on your Tele? Whatever it is - i like it!
> 
> Regarding the stainless steel frets: what tools do you use? I still use 18% nickel because I'm too afraid to ruin my tools.



I have a stew mac Z file and their fret nipper and I'm pretty sure I notched my fret nipper on the SS frets. They are serious business. Hopefully my Z file is okay. I'm switching back to nickel for now until I can get build perfect guitars and it is worth it to have the more durable frets.


----------



## Deegatron

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I have a stew mac Z file and their fret nipper and I'm pretty sure I notched my fret nipper on the SS frets. They are serious business. Hopefully my Z file is okay. I'm switching back to nickel for now until I can get build perfect guitars and it is worth it to have the more durable frets.



I've used the stumac regular diamond fret file on a couple of SS fret jobs and it still cuts just as good as ever. it loads up very quickly with SS dust so it needs to be vigorously cleaned often during use... I think that's why some guy's think they "wear out" with SS.... cuz they plug up and stop cutting...
either way, guitar looks great.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

rich_chaffins said:


>



looking good, really dig that the fretboard. is it ziricote?


----------



## rich_chaffins

Lemonbaby said:


> Is that a cherry top on your Tele? Whatever it is - i like it!
> 
> Regarding the stainless steel frets: what tools do you use? I still use 18% nickel because I'm too afraid to ruin my tools.




Thanks! The top (and the back) is koa. Hard to tell, since you usually only see the super-flamey stuff. Re: tools, same stuff as I've been using. The Stewmac nippers worked great, although it did take more effort. It's harder and more brittle...the nippers don't sink into it like with nickel. Keep squeezing, and it eventually snaps. 




KnightBrolaire said:


> looking good, really dig that the fretboard. is it ziricote?



Appreciate it! It's a really nice board of Macassar ebony.


----------



## IGC

rich_chaffins said:


> Thanks! The top (and the back) is koa. Hard to tell, since you usually only see the super-flamey stuff. Re: tools, same stuff as I've been using. The Stewmac nippers worked great, although it did take more effort. It's harder and more brittle...the nippers don't sink into it like with nickel. Keep squeezing, and it eventually snaps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate it! It's a really nice board of Macassar ebony.



Good bit of info about the ss fretwire and how it is on nippers, I have a 6 foot roll of jumbo ss fretwire I plan on fretting my tree guitar with. Maybe I will cutt the individual pieces off the roll with my 3 inch high speed cut off wheel and then file the ends after mounting or something. Good bit of info though thanks.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

rich_chaffins said:


> Hey, guys! Some great looking stuff on the thread!
> Here's what's on my bench this week. Took my first foray into stainless steel frets this week. Man, those things are HARD!



haha, yes stainless is hard, and not nice to your tools either... But I love it, use stainless on all my builds these days. But man, nice tele. If I had to build one, it'd look pretty much like that. Solid work.


----------



## jwade




----------



## IGC

So happy my "hand made" fret wire press caul matches the R. 19.25 fret board, yay! Piecing together two more builds for this year: curly maple/wall nut 5 piece necks, curly poplar spacer pieces, ash wings, gaboon ebony fret boards. Drop tops will probably be some combination of figured maple/ wall nut.


----------



## MoonJelly

Totally geeking out over new templates. My wife doesn't get it at all lol. 
P90, mini hum, and 3 different brand-specific humbuckers, in 6 and 7 sizes.



screen shot pc


----------



## KR250

MoonJelly said:


> Totally geeking out over new templates. My wife doesn't get it at all lol.
> P90, mini hum, and 3 different brand-specific humbuckers, in 6 and 7 sizes.
> 
> https://postimg.org/image/syl0zkpsf/screen shot pc



Oh that's cool. I just checked out their site since you mentioned brand specific templates. I've made my own so far but not as precise as I'd like them, so may have to pick up some of these.


----------



## electriceye

Potvin is a good man. He didn't have a '67 Gibson V template set and made one just for me (he'll make anyone just about ANYTHING if you ask). I think you can order it on his site now. I'll be buying a LOT more from him.

I credit Sully, btw. He mentioned the guy in one of his videos and that's when I checked him out. Amazing products.


----------



## MrYakob

Potvin is THE man, got my 4th set of templates coming in today actually. Doesn't hurt that we live in the same city so I can feel good about supporting a local dude doing good work!


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

The beginning stages of my next build. Will be very similar to the build I did last year, based off that shape and scale length, with a few differences though.


----------



## IGC

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> The beginning stages of my next build. Will be very similar to the build I did last year, based off that shape and scale length, with a few differences though.



Looking good so far, what are the different wood type specs?


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

IGC said:


> Looking good so far, what are the different wood type specs?



Wenge and black cherry body, and for the neck it has wenge and the other wood if I remember correctly was a piece of Honduran mahogany. I bought it several years ago and left it in a closet until recently.

This one will be a 7 string, fanned fret 27-25.5, set neck construction, also, thinking maybe using just one pickup, not 100% decided yet.


----------



## Knarbens

MoonJelly said:


> Totally geeking out over new templates. My wife doesn't get it at all lol.
> P90, mini hum, and 3 different brand-specific humbuckers, in 6 and 7 sizes.
> 
> 
> 
> screen shot pc



Nice templates! May I ask how you rout the small corner radius?


----------



## IGC

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Wenge and black cherry body, and for the neck it has wenge and the other wood if I remember correctly was a piece of Honduran mahogany. I bought it several years ago and left it in a closet until recently.
> 
> This one will be a 7 string, fanned fret 27-25.5, set neck construction, also, thinking maybe using just one pickup, not 100% decided yet.



Sweet! I checked out your other build, very nice!


----------



## MoonJelly

Knarbens said:


> Nice templates! May I ask how you rout the small corner radius?



With great care and attention....

Actually, I have a trim router with a "stubby" 1/4 inch bit that can get the corner radius. I set the speed on my router at about 30% so it won't scorch the corners. Only about 1/2" is the cutting part of the bit, and the rest is just the shaft of the bit, resting on the template. I kinda sweat bullets the first time I tried it but it worked like a charm.

P.S. I also put a smidge of pro-cut on the bit first (same stuff you would use when cutting inlay) but I don't know how much difference it made.

I'm at work now but I'll upload a pic of it tomorrow


----------



## Knarbens

MoonJelly said:


> With great care and attention....
> 
> Actually, I have a trim router with a "stubby" 1/4 inch bit that can get the corner radius. I set the speed on my router at about 30% so it won't scorch the corners. Only about 1/2" is the cutting part of the bit, and the rest is just the shaft of the bit, resting on the template. I kinda sweat bullets the first time I tried it but it worked like a charm.
> 
> P.S. I also put a smidge of pro-cut on the bit first (same stuff you would use when cutting inlay) but I don't know how much difference it made.
> 
> I'm at work now but I'll upload a pic of it tomorrow



That has been my guess. I thought about riding the shaft along a template, but never tried it. Guess the trick is to guide the bit along the template, not to push it too much against it?


----------



## KnightroExpress

For tight corners like that, try a miniature template bit from Amana Tool. They make a long one and a short one.


----------



## MoonJelly

That's probably even better! I thought I'd get a pic today but got rain instead 
Ah, the perils of a back porch workshop.


----------



## MikeNeal

KnightroExpress said:


> For tight corners like that, try a miniature template bit from Amana Tool. They make a long one and a short one.



i've heard that the bearings like to explode on those bits. any personal experience with them? i am seriously considering picking up the short one. since i'm not the biggest fan of running on the shank of a 1/4" bit


----------



## MikeNeal

jwade said:


>



seriously jealous of the that limba. i was going to get some from secretstashhardwoods but i just couldnt afford it.


----------



## KnightroExpress

MikeNeal said:


> i've heard that the bearings like to explode on those bits. any personal experience with them? i am seriously considering picking up the short one. since i'm not the biggest fan of running on the shank of a 1/4" bit



I use the short one fairly often. The key is to do 99% of your material removal with a larger bit, then tighten up the corners with the mini bit. Also, drop your RPM and feed rate by around 25% because the bearing is really delicate.


----------



## MoonJelly

That follows with what I do with my little bit. I went ahead and ordered them and I noticed they post a warning about high rpms.


----------



## jwade

MikeNeal said:


> seriously jealous of the that limba. i was going to get some from secretstashhardwoods but i just couldnt afford it.



I have a very awesome significant other


----------



## Knarbens

KnightroExpress said:


> For tight corners like that, try a miniature template bit from Amana Tool. They make a long one and a short one.



Yeah, I found one online a few weeks ago. That could be my choice.

Tried out the shaft on template method. Doesn't work for me as it damages/melts the acrylic templates I work with.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Knarbens said:


> Yeah, I found one online a few weeks ago. That could be my choice.
> 
> Tried out the shaft on template method. Doesn't work for me as it damages/melts the acrylic templates I work with.



Build a 1/4" pin router jig!






It's not hard to make (if you have a router table) and gives pretty good results with whatever 1/4" bit you want.


----------



## TuffyKohler

I've been working on an electric nylon string for a bit.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Had very little time, so my 7 is moving along very slowly. Managed a first prototype assembly to check if all parts fit. Decided to go with a flat armrest, covered with walnut burl. The ABM are quite expensive, but have no dent to guide the strings. Going to try the Hipshot singles next time...


----------



## Lemonbaby

Was about time for JEM - build started yesterday. Swamp ash body, 5-piece neck (flamed maple+rosewood), ebony ferret, Edge Pro, Hipshot open gear, 3+3 headstock, Titan & LiquiFire with Blackout Modular preamp. Used my first spokewheel trussrod for better stability...


----------



## Lemonbaby

Found some time today to die the parts, ready for clear coat or oil...


----------



## Mr_Mar10

Always thought this thread was about jigs n tools etc 

Here is my current WIP.... 1 piece wavy mango top & chestnut dinky, Emg 81/85, hip shot tuners etc, nearly ready for 2 tone burst n oil  
Too hot for sanding this week :0


----------



## Cloudy

Getting close to wrapping up this build now, the idiot that I am I dinged the neck finish while I was crowning my frets so Ive got it re-oiling now. Should be done very soon though!

Flamed Maple top, Black Walnut Body, Rosewood neck and a gaboon ebony fingerboard with hipshot hardware and blk tri pickups


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Lemonbaby said:


> Was about time for JEM - build started yesterday. Swamp ash body, 5-piece neck (flamed maple+rosewood), ebony ferret, Edge Pro, Hipshot open gear, 3+3 headstock, Titan & LiquiFire with Blackout Modular preamp. Used my first spokewheel trussrod for better stability...



I just processed the "started yesterday" part of this post. Did you get some of the parts prefabricated or do you just work really fast?

Looks great, BTW. Very precise.


----------



## Lemonbaby

As I can't complain about too much free time, I buy the neck blanks and body blanks pre-sawn/glued/planed to my specification. That way I can directly start sawing and routing the guitar/neck shape...

Edit:forgot to mention, the fretboard's CNC pre-slotted/radiused.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Lemonbaby said:


> As I can't complain about too much free time, I buy the neck blanks and body blanks pre-sawn/glued/planed to my specification. That way I can directly start sawing and routing the guitar/neck shape...
> 
> Edit:forgot to mention, the fretboard's CNC pre-slotted/radiused.



Nice. That's still a lit of work in a day. Nice work.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

So I got a new toy...


----------



## Cloudy

LiveOVErdrive said:


> So I got a new toy...



Let the fun begin >:]


----------



## Mr_Mar10

Looks epic, enjoy!! $$$$

What's the specs / details on that piece of awesomeness?
Was it an all in one setup or have you bought laptop/interface/Machine separately?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Mr_Mar10 said:


> Looks epic, enjoy!! $$$$
> 
> What's the specs / details on that piece of awesomeness?
> Was it an all in one setup or have you bought laptop/interface/Machine separately?



The machine is a Shapeoko XL from Carbide 3D. My old roommate from college (who's grad work kept him in a machine shop for many years) recommended it to me, and so far I love it! It is a pretty reasonably priced kit, and took me (who has never touched a cnc machine) only like 6 hours to assemble. Includes everything but the laptop. The spindle is just a 1.5hp Dewalt palm router, so any 1/4 inch bit can be used. Cutting area is something like 3ft by 1.5ft by 3in. Perfect for bodies and necks  

I'm just getting started with fusion 360 and such, but so far it is a ton of fun. Hoping to do my next build mostly on this. Especially the fretboard. (with inlays!)


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

LiveOVErdrive said:


> The machine is a Shapeoko XL from Carbide 3D. My old roommate from college (who's grad work kept him in a machine shop for many years) recommended it to me, and so far I love it! It is a pretty reasonably priced kit, and took me (who has never touched a cnc machine) only like 6 hours to assemble. Includes everything but the laptop. The spindle is just a 1.5hp Dewalt palm router, so any 1/4 inch bit can be used. Cutting area is something like 3ft by 1.5ft by 3in. Perfect for bodies and necks
> 
> I'm just getting started with fusion 360 and such, but so far it is a ton of fun. Hoping to do my next build mostly on this. Especially the fretboard. (with inlays!)



Man that looks fun. so you can use it for simple operations like milling a blank flat and other things like carving out an entire body, cavities, arched tops... etc?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Man that looks fun. so you can use it for simple operations like milling a blank flat and other things like carving out an entire body, cavities, arched tops... etc?



Yep. I've got bits to do fret slots as well. And with some care I think I can mill circuit boards as well. And aluminum pedal/amp chassis. They're really useful for a lot of things.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Picked up a nice slab of Spanish Cedar and sectioned it into a pair of 3 piece rough cuts to begin building a couple bodies. The walnut piece will be book matched but I think I'll only be able to get one top set out of it. I don't wanna risk messing it up to try to slice it into two top sets so it'll just be a nice top for one of the builds and I'll get something different for the other body.





Two slightly different templates, the wood one for a 22 fret 6 string, the acrylic one for a 7 (maybe 8) string.





This Bastonge Walnut was kinda pricey but will be worth it when the finish is applied and that flame pops out...


----------



## Lemonbaby

That walnut is amazing! 

I'm also a big fan of cedar, had three necks made out of it for minimum weight.


----------



## NoSaintNick

It's been a while since I read through the forum but I'm digging into again and actually have something to post these days. Starting with this Evertune install. I'll post updates as I dig into it. Just about to glue in the cavity blocks.


----------



## NoSaintNick

Got the blocks glued in. Now we wait.


----------



## Kaff

^Are you going to Evertune it?


----------



## MoonJelly

Doing a blood-red stain on my brother's guitar, you'd never know this was just a prop 









In its current state. Not far to go!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

MoonJelly said:


> Doing a blood-red stain on my brother's guitar, you'd never know this was just a prop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In its current state. Not far to go!


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

MoonJelly said:


> Doing a blood-red stain on my brother's guitar, you'd never know this was just a prop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In its current state. Not far to go!


Man that's nice... don't you have a build thread for this guitar?


----------



## MoonJelly

http://sevenstring.org/threads/valkyries-get-ready-for-a-pic-dump.320574/


----------



## Omzig

LiveOVErdrive said:


> So I got a new toy...
> 
> /Snip...hate quoting pics



Very cool,Ive been thinking about getting a desktop CNC self build kit for a few weeks now and had looked at the Shapeoko and X-Carve kits but being in the UK i seemed id be either paying stupid shipping price + import duty/taxes or paying £=$ rates to a UK re-sellers pocket ....

Last night i found the eShapeoko packages from Amber Spyglass Ltd seems like an upgraded Shapeoko2
and spec-ing out everything it looks like it will run about half of an imported kit (£600 vs £1200+) going to do a lot of reading to bring myself upto speed

Anyhows back to the purpose of this (very inspiring) tread....

Been a while (4+years id say) since i did any scratch building from lumber slabs but i got the ich a few months back and had a dig around in my scraps box for unused guitar sized bits,lot of sawdust later this is almost done.










​Idigbo/Roswood/ziricote b/n/fb

Also decided to do a rebuild on my last (nonfinished) build to rescue it from the scrap pile 









​Still lots to do but ive re-found the joy of building stuff


----------



## Lemonbaby

Nice headless guitars, what hardware are you using on the fanned build? Also, how are you getting along with the flat neck backside)? I also don't use C/D-shapes, but my middle surface of the neck profile is slanted towards the bass side which plays a lot better for me.


----------



## electriceye

Super Strat is a comin'!


----------



## Omzig

Lemonbaby said:


> Nice headless guitars, what hardware are you using on the fanned build? Also, how are you getting along with the flat neck backside)? I also don't use C/D-shapes, but my middle surface of the neck profile is slanted towards the bass side which plays a lot better for me.



Hey Lemonbaby

Hardware on the multi scale 7 (27-25.5") is technologyformusicians.com (old build thread is HERE started way back in 2012!) some things i like about them (and somethings i don't) Ola was OOS when i started this build and TFM were the only source of headless single bridges i could find (ABM were also nowhere to be found at the time)

Flat back necks are feeling great thx  i used to play a mates Chapman stick (badly) years ago and always fancied trying the flat fb/neck on a guitar,the 6 string still has sharp edges (not sure if they'll stay) but on the MS 7 ive rounded them over a little,i did try a few bass/treble chase paths ala ola in some pine test blanks but for me i found my thumb was out of place if i tried any holdsworth type wide chord spans,the wide open flat stright down the center works well for me atm but im sure i'll try a few other things once i get around to buying and setting up one of the the eShapeoko kits.

Cheers
Omzig


----------



## MrYakob

Progress is moving along on my 3rd build, decided to cut in to one of 2 beautiful 1-piece Sipo Mahogany bodies I had been saving until I knew what I was doing.


----------



## IGC

Omzig said:


> Very cool,Ive been thinking about getting a desktop CNC self build kit for a few weeks now and had looked at the Shapeoko and X-Carve kits but being in the UK i seemed id be either paying stupid shipping price + import duty/taxes or paying £=$ rates to a UK re-sellers pocket ....
> 
> Last night i found the eShapeoko packages from Amber Spyglass Ltd seems like an upgraded Shapeoko2
> and spec-ing out everything it looks like it will run about half of an imported kit (£600 vs £1200+) going to do a lot of reading to bring myself upto speed
> 
> Anyhows back to the purpose of this (very inspiring) tread....
> 
> Been a while (4+years id say) since i did any scratch building from lumber slabs but i got the ich a few months back and had a dig around in my scraps box for unused guitar sized bits,lot of sawdust later this is almost done.
> ​Idigbo/Roswood/ziricote b/n/fb
> 
> Also decided to do a rebuild on my last (nonfinished) build to rescue it from the scrap pile
> ​Still lots to do but ive re-found the joy of building stuff




A CNC router will save some aches and pains in your back.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

I got bored and decided to prototype a headless design I've been kicking around for a bit. still some tweaking to do to the hardware placement/contour and laminate ideas but the shape is comfortable/ should be very ergonomic.


----------



## KR250

Scored a super cool piece of Rosewood that my neighbor brought over today. He's been collecting some cool pieces of wood and decided to let this one go. It's about 1.5" thick, 48" long, and 6" wide. The very top has a crack on the back side that takes out about 1" from the back and about 6" down. Still pretty epic piece, flatsawn though.

2 necks (neckthrough)? Fret boards? I'm still figuring out how to use it most efficiently while keeping that top figuring. Splitting down the middle and making a whole bunch of fret boards seems to make the most sense at the moment. Open to any suggesions...


----------



## KnightBrolaire

if it's flatsawn then I say use it for a fretboard.


----------



## MoonJelly

KnightBrolaire said:


> if it's flatsawn then I say use it for a fretboard.



Or flip it on its side and use for neck laminates, if that gets it very close to quartersawn


----------



## KnightBrolaire

MoonJelly said:


> Or flip it on its side and use for neck laminates, if that gets it very close to quartersawn


some woods just don't have awesome grains when quartersawn, like zebrano. I have a feeling that rosewood isn't going to be nearly as visually interesting in a neck as it would be flat sawn.


----------



## NoSaintNick

So it's been a hectic month or two and I was stalled on that Evertune install but I finally got it done. Some points that may be useful; the portion of the body just in front of the bridge inside the guitar took numerous adjustments. I'd shave some material off, think I had enough clearance according to the instructions, put it all back together and set up only to find I still lacked the full range of motion required for the certification demonstration videos they want to see. I finally got it but damn is that portion thin. Also be sure not to take that bevel all the way to the edge so as not to blow your clean routing line. I also had to shim the hold down bracket and elongate the back route a hair to get everything to sit where it needed.

Most of you probably know how these things work. A large triangle shaped bracket that a spring hooks to on one end and to a carriage on the other which is part of the saddle assembly that has a threaded rod that adjusts the carriage which tightens or loosens the spring. The end of the saddle assembly has a forward stop, a rear stop, and can float between them. One of these saddle assemblies was mounted incorrectly at the factory so I was having trouble getting the fine tuner to give me the full range of tuning it was intended to. I pulled it out of the bridge and noticed the very upper portion of the saddle was sitting lower in its bracket than the others. It wasn't pivoting in the machined notch it was intended to, rather a point a mm or so higher. So's what I did was I pulled that spring off, put the saddle what where it shoulda been, put that spring back on there, and it worked yea. I'll get around to refinishing the top at some point but for now this is a demo for my customers to see if they'd like an Evertune.


----------



## J_Mac

Can't believe I've deliberated about buying a planer thicknesser for so long. Flattened 3 necks in about 10 mins! The last one I did by hand took about 3 hours


----------



## electriceye

That neck is drool-worthy!


----------



## IGC

J_Mac said:


> Can't believe I've deliberated about buying a planer thicknesser for so long. Flattened 3 necks in about 10 mins! The last one I did by hand took about 3 hours



I too have been thinking about getting one of those thickness planers. 
I have never used one and have allways wondered what keeps the board or whatever your planing from getting shot right out the back of the machine? 
If it is too much to anawer this question, then I understand.


----------



## Randy

Randy said:


> Project I'm working on for a friend of mine
> 
> 1967 Fender Jazz Bass that's seen better days. He bought it brand new, played it for years and then during a quiet time in his career, it was parked in his basement where the dampness wreaked havok on it.
> 
> The primary issue that got it to this level of disrepair was the action being high. Since then, it's ping-ponged around all the local repair shops who all called it a lost cause. MOST of the delamination and the missing fretboard is because one of the shops believed the neck was "twisted" and steamed THE ENTIRE GUITAR in a effort to make the neck pliable, which had the unforeseen effect causing the seems in the body to appear and causing one piece on the lower horn to fall off completely!
> 
> Anyway, the plan isn't a full restoration. I'm primarily looking to get this back to playable/stable and retain SOME of the appearance it originally had (block inlays, bound fretboard, etc).
> 
> I looked the neck over every way possible and it is absolutely not twisted at all. It looks like it needed a bit of relief that'd normally be within the range of a truss rod adjustment but I'm guessing the truss rod MAY have been non-responsive considering it was rusted pretty solid when I pulled it out. I'm planning on replacing it with a modern, stainless steel, dual action truss rod.
> 
> Interesting thing about this era Jazz Bass (early CBS era) is that the radius is carved out of the neck and the fretboard was just a veneer (~1/8" thick) on top of it. I intend on shaving it down enough to install a proper thickness fretboard to help with future stability.



Follow-up to this one


----------



## electriceye

IGC said:


> I too have been thinking about getting one of those thickness planers.
> I have never used one and have allways wondered what keeps the board or whatever your planing from getting shot right out the back of the machine?
> If it is too much to anawer this question, then I understand.



Most, if not all, such machines have some form of kickback guard.


----------



## J_Mac

IGC said:


> I too have been thinking about getting one of those thickness planers.
> I have never used one and have allways wondered what keeps the board or whatever your planing from getting shot right out the back of the machine?
> If it is too much to anawer this question, then I understand.


Yeah the thicknessing mode has a set of one-way teeth which grip the wood. There is nothing on the planing mode to stop kickback, but I'm only taking 0.25mm off with each pass so it never happens.


----------



## Walshy

J_Mac said:


> Can't believe I've deliberated about buying a planer thicknesser for so long. Flattened 3 necks in about 10 mins! The last one I did by hand took about 3 hours



I think that's the Clark one I was looking at, J. Defo on my to do list. 

I just bought their BS350 bandsaw - best woodworking purchase yet and highly recommended. £600 new but performs like saws double the price.

Liking the flamed maple around that wenge - pure strength next to flamed beauty.


----------



## Lemonbaby

IGC said:


> I too have been thinking about getting one of those thickness planers.
> I have never used one and have allways wondered what keeps the board or whatever your planing from getting shot right out the back of the machine?
> If it is too much to anawer this question, then I understand.


You're pushing whatever piece of wood you're planing against the direction of rotation. Same as you'd do with a table router...


----------



## J_Mac

Walshy said:


> I think that's the Clark one I was looking at, J. Defo on my to do list.
> 
> I just bought their BS350 bandsaw - best woodworking purchase yet and highly recommended. £600 new but performs like saws double the price.
> 
> Liking the flamed maple around that wenge - pure strength next to flamed beauty.


Cheers bro! 

Yeah the Clarke stuff is good value isn't it? I also have their belt & disc sander. Next stop - table saw!


----------



## Walshy

Yeah, their products are great. I've somehow managed without a belt sander so far but it's also an upcoming purchase so I don't have to toil away with sandpaper on glass/sanding beams!

What I really want to find is an affordable drum sander but Jet ones seem like the only viable option I've found. That'd be a real game changer for a small shop like mine.


----------



## warped

Doing a fret level on my build using the much debated 'radius block' method..


----------



## MikeNeal

warped said:


> Doing a fret level on my build using the much debated 'radius block' method..



I do the radius block sometimes and the leveling beam sometimes. I get great results with both.

I only used the beam for the 8 string since the radius block wasn't wide enough


----------



## MrYakob

Making way too little progress to justify a build thread but I started carving contours on my Super Strat build. Hoping to get this one done before all the cold weather hits.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Working on building a neck, I've got a few things going on at the moment, this one for a 6 string and another 8 string, even though I havn't started threads yet. The whole Photobucket thing really blew my posting momentum, but not my building. I have since just completely deleted my PB account and looking into other sources of photo sharing.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Did the glue up yesterday, this is how I'm doing neck joints these days. The neck pocket fit came out really nice. Only thing I should have done differently is that I purposely put the pocket so the neck has a slight tilt back, after measuring it out it might need about one degree more tilt to be spot on. I can mill the difference out of the body slab when setting it up to glue on the top wood.


----------



## Walshy

That's a very solid neck joint there. It's so satisfying when those rounded corners snug up to the cavity like that!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

working on some explorer bodies. sparkle one is a kit body, other one is going to be an 8 string. The 8 string one is still getting carved and I haven't decided on whether to veneer the top or to use some big bookmatched pieces of flamed maple. The gold sparkle one is probably going to get with more sparkles since I didn't get the best coverage on the back.


----------



## electriceye

KnightBrolaire said:


> working on some explorer bodies. sparkle one is a kit body, other one is going to be an 8 string. The 8 string one is still getting carved and I haven't decided on whether to veneer the top or to use some big bookmatched pieces of flamed maple. The gold sparkle one is probably going to get with more sparkles since I didn't get the best coverage on the back.



Those are Destroyer bodies, not Explorer. >


----------



## KnightBrolaire

electriceye said:


> Those are Destroyer bodies, not Explorer. >


bahh quit nitpicking


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

electriceye said:


> Those are Destroyer bodies, not Explorer. >


 Meanwhile, I'm over here calling anything with two cutaways a "super strat"


----------



## Walshy

warped said:


> Doing a fret level on my build using the much debated 'radius block' method..



What's controversial about the radius block method? I figured as long as your fretboard is perfectly level and your frets are pressed in properly, there's no downside. And it's quicker than having to facet the fretwire with more passes with a flat beam.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Walshy said:


> What's controversial about the radius block method? I figured as long as your fretboard is perfectly level and your frets are pressed in properly, there's no downside. And it's quicker than having to facet the fretwire with more passes with a flat beam.


In the world of guitars, If it isn't what they did in the 50s, it is probably controversial.  

But actually the radius of the frets will be slightly larger than the radius of the fretboard (by the thickness of the fret) so the outsides of the fretboard will get ground down a hair more than the center.

But this is probably a negligible amount and probably doesn't matter.


----------



## MikeNeal

I get my best levels with the radius beam.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I mean it seems like it would be better, right? You'd have a consistent radius, whereas a block could easily go all wonky.


----------



## warped

Walshy said:


> What's controversial about the radius block method? I figured as long as your fretboard is perfectly level and your frets are pressed in properly, there's no downside. And it's quicker than having to facet the fretwire with more passes with a flat beam.


I agree - have seen the idea poo poo'd in a few other forums. I think technically it should be better than a flat beam (so long as you don't have compound radiused board). I worked out great, this time (which is my 2nd attempt at fret level).


----------



## Pikka Bird

This illustrates the supposed problem. Radiusing the board with the same block as you level your frets with would mean that the frets get gradually lower towards the fretboard edge, like you see with the red line (the fret tops) in relation to the black line (the fretboard). Now, since fretboards radii only represent a slight fraction of the imaginary circle that represents them, you never get anywhere near the section of the circle where that would cause any noticeable problem.

In fact, you could argue that you'll be giving your guitar more correct specs because the radius doesn't describe the fretboard but rather the playing surface, which would otherwise be ever so slightly greater than that of the fretboard. But again, this minuscule difference is noticeable to nobody other than Eric Johnson. It's the difference from 14" to 14.047" of radius (assuming a medium fret height of .047").

So go right ahead with leveling with beams, radius blocks, flat marble slabs, or whatever.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I should cut radius blocks on my cnc machine in pairs - one for the fretboard and one for the frets, with the radii adjusted accordingly.


----------



## electriceye

warped said:


> I agree - have seen the idea poo poo'd in a few other forums. I think technically it should be better than a flat beam (so long as you don't have compound radiused board). I worked out great, this time (which is my 2nd attempt at fret level).



I actually saw something on this yesterday. I think the reason pertains to the belief that if your board isn't perfectly level you will transfer that unevenness to the frets by using the radius block. But certainly don't take my word on it. I'm just now doing my very first fret job and I'm an idiot.


----------



## MikeNeal

electriceye said:


> I actually saw something on this yesterday. I think the reason pertains to the belief that if your board isn't perfectly level you will transfer that unevenness to the frets by using the radius block. But certainly don't take my word on it. I'm just now doing my very first fret job and I'm an idiot.



If anything the radius beam should correct any unevenness that the frets had from an uneven board


----------



## Pikka Bird

electriceye said:


> I think the reason pertains to the belief that if your board isn't perfectly level you will transfer that unevenness to the frets by using the radius block.


Whoever said that wasn't thinking straight (pun halfway intended). The length and straightness of your sanding tool of choice is what determines this, not the curve. Same as a leveling beam, if it's short then it'll wobble over the frets and not level them at all, a long one will level properly.


----------



## Walshy

Thanks for the responses regarding the radius beam. Makes sense now. So much geometry to take into account when building guitars!


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Eight string neck blank, tapered laminates. 

I love a freshly sharpened wood plane...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Eight string neck blank, tapered laminates.
> 
> I love a freshly sharpened wood plane...



Oh my god I love those tapered stripes. That is a great idea. How did you cut the taper?


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Oh my god I love those tapered stripes. That is a great idea. How did you cut the taper?



I've seen this done on a few other guitars before, not originally my idea, the taper matches the width the fretboard will be. Actually on this piece it's only the two inner Wenge strips that have a taper, all other pieces are straight and consistent from end to end. It'd take some insane patience to taper each individual laminate toward a common focal point... maybe some day, but not today. A lot of measuring goes into it, but basically I ran the strips under a router-thicknesing jig with one end propped up on a scrap piece of wood to make up the difference to be cut. Same way you'd cut a straight laminate, but with one end built up higher, with loads of measuring and adjusting where necessary.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I just cleaned and polished some gunky frets with some automotive deswirler I bought for finishing clearcoats, and it worked GREAT. The frets are shiny and slippery as hell now.

That guitar (my UV) still needs a fret job (came pretty bad from the factory) but I don't know that I've got the guts to attempt that on one of my factory guitars yet.


----------



## Walshy

I love the neck tapering idea. Wynn does this on his bass guitars. Check out the excellent Restrung documentary on YouTube where he talks about that feature (I think table ssw tapering jig) and shows off some Jimmy DiResta bandsaw skills to boot. Great one-man shop insight.

Your way is very accessible too. Probably how I would do it.


----------



## Walshy

View media item 320
Working on a Twin Peaks tribute superstrat neck-thru build for a friend at the moment.

View media item 321
View media item 322


----------



## Walshy

View media item 326
View media item 327


----------



## Walshy

African mahogany wings
Maple-wenge-maple neck thru
5A flamed maple top (to be stained Twin Peaks red room hue)
Evo gold fretwire
Ebony fretboard with flamed maple inlay
Some custom 'Agent Cooper coffe mug' tone and vol knobs I am doing
Fixed stainless steel bridge
SD SH-4 and SH-2 humbuckers


----------



## Mr_Mar10

Currently a pile of body's & tops
Oh& a broken planer 
Company sent wrong parts which foobard it up
Awaiting correct blades & new drive belt... grrrr

Kinda ground to a halt atm, much Purple Heart, zebrano, chestnut & iroko looking sad on the bench


----------



## Walshy

My images didn't work. Will try again later!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

doing some surgery to the strandberg. Dyed the back/sides black, installing magnets on the cavity cover, also dyed the cavity cover black.




also made the destroyer more sparkly.


----------



## Soya

Undertaking my first refret, on my trusty Ibanez acoustic. Switching to jumbo gold EVO frets, because why not.


----------



## BangandBreach

https://i.imgur.com/re3GuZn.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Rb2372j.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cC0tvvq.jpg

I made some mistakes.


----------



## MoonJelly

Soya said:


> Undertaking my first refret, on my trusty Ibanez acoustic. Switching to jumbo gold EVO frets, because why not.



EVO is the best fretwire to work with. Why not indeed


----------



## Lemonbaby

BangandBreach said:


> https://i.imgur.com/re3GuZn.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/Rb2372j.jpg
> https://i.imgur.com/cC0tvvq.jpg
> 
> I made some mistakes.


What's the black stuff you spilled on that fretboard? Also, change your links from "https" to "http", they didn't work for me.


----------



## BangandBreach

Lemonbaby said:


> What's the black stuff you spilled on that fretboard? Also, change your links from "https" to "http", they didn't work for me.



Can't edit the post.

Minwax black stain. I made a mistake while attempting to sand/stain the neck. It's a long story.
I ended up painting it, though.
http://imgur.com/MynGUIL
http://imgur.com/ZmPEGhV


I don't think changing it to http changes anything, traffic between you and IMGUR is encrypted.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Soya said:


> Undertaking my first refret, on my trusty Ibanez acoustic. Switching to jumbo gold EVO frets, because why not.



Gold frets would look good on that guitar anyway.


----------



## Taylor

Been away for a while, but here's what I'm working on at the moment: 

8 String Multiscale










27 Frets, Bocote neck. Note that the headstock hasn't been cut out yet.












A Macassar Ebony Neck that I don't really have any plans for yet.







Got some stuff ordered to finally finish this one up







And lastly two bodies, the V is a replacement body for an old BC Rich that was my first guitar. The Singlecut I think will end up getting swirled.


----------



## MoonJelly

Finally put together a legit Iceman template.





I'm thinking Thordendal style build, but semihollow..


----------



## skewkus13

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Eight string neck blank, tapered laminates.
> 
> I love a freshly sharpened wood plane...


How difficult is it to get the neck blank flat and true with a plane??


----------



## Lemonbaby

skewkus13 said:


> How difficult is it to get the neck blank flat and true with a plane??


Piece of cake. Also leaves a much nicer surface than inexpensive electric planers.


----------



## skewkus13

Lemonbaby said:


> Piece of cake. Also leaves a much nicer surface than inexpensive electric planers.


How hard if you have no experience with a plane like me?? Lol


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

skewkus13 said:


> How difficult is it to get the neck blank flat and true with a plane??



It depends a lot on the tool and set up too. Ideally you want a real hard steel, sharp enough to shave with and start with the blade low enough to barely take material off. The finest little fillets that you can achieve at first, then extend the blade lower if necessary to speed up the process. Also depends on what direction you cut at it, it may have some tear out at first, if that happens come at it from the opposite direction.

Planing is never the last step for me though. The most flat and precise face of the neck comes from sanding against a piece of marble as a sanding block. Makes the wood flat as a sheet of glass.

A good trick is to mark the face of the wood over with pencil lines, then sand til all the lines disappear, it’ll show you the low spots.


----------



## skewkus13

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> It depends a lot on the tool and set up too. Ideally you want a real hard steel, sharp enough to shave with and start with the blade low enough to barely take material off. The finest little fillets that you can achieve at first, then extend the blade lower if necessary to speed up the process. Also depends on what direction you cut at it, it may have some tear out at first, if that happens come at it from the opposite direction.
> 
> Planing is never the last step for me though. The most flat and precise face of the neck comes from sanding against a piece of marble as a sanding block. Makes the wood flat as a sheet of glass.
> 
> A good trick is to mark the face of the wood over with pencil lines, then sand til all the lines disappear, it’ll show you the low spots.



How do you ensure the sides are all square to each other?


----------



## Lemonbaby

skewkus13 said:


> How hard if you have no experience with a plane like me?? Lol


Quite honestly, it took me a while to appreciate hand planes. Buy good ones with expensive blades, makes life a lot easier in the first step. After that, learn sharpening/adjusting it and just use it all the time...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Made a separate table for my cnc table so I could have my damn workbench back. Feels good.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

skewkus13 said:


> How do you ensure the sides are all square to each other?



Check with a carpenters square, hold it at one end, match it up to your laminates and/or sides, shave off more or less on one area of the face of the neck if necessary until it matches the square.


----------



## Taylor

Taylor said:


> Been away for a while, but here's what I'm working on at the moment...



Let's try that again with links that work! 

8 String Multiscale Headless:























Ordered parts to (finally) finish this up:





Two bodies, the V being a replacement body for my first guitar:






A Macassar Ebony neck that I don't really have any plans for at the moment. Thinking a basic 7 string super strat.


----------



## MoonJelly

Ha, glad you got the pics working finally!
A super lightweight 8 in the works. Obeche and graphite-reinforced redwood. It'll be a semihollow body with either an angel step maple, or feathered walnut top.
Fretboard will probably be that pistachio I've had around forever.





Once my bro's guitar is finished (this week, it will be done!) I've got four 8s I'm planning to build side by side, a la MikeNeal style.


----------



## FetzEgemony

this is the first guitar i'm building, with the help of a friend who is runing a small custom shop here in Italy.

a little bit of miastakes but it could have been waaaay worse than this!


----------



## pondman

Got a nice board of Pippy Elm on my travels today.


DSC_0004 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## KnightBrolaire




----------



## Goatchrist

Finally took the time to continue on this beauty:









http://sevenstring.org/threads/unor...-macasar-mdf-chromesteel.325607/#post-4793913


----------



## warped

Nice Goatchrist - really cool design. I don't understand what is going on with the pickup and bridge routes that seem to go into some kind of cavity - very interested to see how this one turns out


----------



## KnightBrolaire

not really guitar related but I made a multilaminate cutting board for my mom.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Milled a batarang for my buddy over the weekend out of a cutting board.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

FetzEgemony said:


> this is the first guitar i'm building, with the help of a friend who is runing a small custom shop here in Italy.
> 
> a little bit of miastakes but it could have been waaaay worse than this!



Is that a purple heart body? I just made a pair of purple heart fretboard blanks yesterday... that stuff is so hard, that's insane. Hardest wood I have worked with so far.


----------



## Mr_Mar10

Yeah splinters are a biatch too ^^


----------



## FetzEgemony

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Is that a purple heart body? I just made a pair of purple heart fretboard blanks yesterday... that stuff is so hard, that's insane. Hardest wood I have worked with so far.


it is mate, it is..
i think that was the worst possible decision i could opt for as body wood..

it's super hard, tends to chip whiile routing (this is the first time i'm using a router aswell so that might actually be my fault, not wood's) and it is probably heavier than Venus' core...

but hey, i learned something


----------



## electriceye

FetzEgemony said:


> it is mate, it is..
> i think that was the worst possible decision i could opt for as body wood..
> 
> it's super hard, tends to chip whiile routing (this is the first time i'm using a router aswell so that might actually be my fault, not wood's) and it is probably heavier than Venus' core...
> 
> but hey, i learned something



I'm also curious to see how it ages. They tend to turn brown.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

electriceye said:


> I'm also curious to see how it ages. They tend to turn brown.


Supposedly with a finish they stay purple.


----------



## FetzEgemony

electriceye said:


> I'm also curious to see how it ages. They tend to turn brown.


i'm going to put a spalted walnut top on it , so, even if it turns brown, i don't care too much about sides/back


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Supposedly with a finish they stay purple.


yeah with the right uv protection it'll fade slowly. Personally I'd rather just use maple and dye it.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Currently milling a gigantic oak radius block to level the frets on my recently acquired ibanez. Radius is 15.8 inches. 15.75 for the fretboard plus 0.05 for the frets themselves.




Overkill? Probably. But at least I know it won't warp out of true.

Of course the next step is to just level and crown my frets with a diamond bur grinding bit, but I don't have the guts for that yet.


----------



## Klzow

Been working on a new guitar shape for my first headless build. This is whats on the digital workbench at the moment. Some things left to fix but overall it is starting to look good.


----------



## crackout

Klzow said:


> Been working on a new guitar shape for my first headless build. This is whats on the digital workbench at the moment. Some things left to fix but overall it is starting to look good.


I think the shape at the end is too 'round' for the horns.


----------



## Klzow

crackout said:


> I think the shape at the end is too 'round' for the horns.


Thats great feedback, thanks! Going to try something else and compare.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Made myself some new clamps for laminating boards. Doing some maple and basswood here for a future build. 




Might need more of them but they seem to work okay so far.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Messing around with wood dyes.

Some were decent, some were bad. 





And then I finally found the look I was going for. 




So I guess I gotta build another guitar now.


----------



## saved

Building a headless with help from my best friend


----------



## electriceye

LiveOVErdrive said:


> And then I finally found the look I was going for.
> 
> View attachment 56987
> 
> 
> So I guess I gotta build another guitar now.



I hereby name that finish: Blood Lizard!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

electriceye said:


> I hereby name that finish: Blood Lizard!


I was gonna go with salmon burst or rainbow trout


----------



## IGC

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Messing around with wood dyes.
> 
> Some were decent, some were bad.
> View attachment 56988
> 
> View attachment 56989
> 
> 
> And then I finally found the look I was going for.
> 
> View attachment 56987
> 
> 
> So I guess I gotta build another guitar now.




Did you apply any clear coating to these samples?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

IGC said:


> Did you apply any clear coating to these samples?



Yeah, a few different types.

The first one basically had nothing - I tried wiping some shellac on but ended up wiping it off trying to buff it too quickly.

The second photo the blue one on the left has blue-tinted poly on it. The one on the right also does, but it is less tinted and thinner. The ones underneath the one on the right have varying degrees of poly or tinted poly on them.

The final one just has clear poly on it - one coat, wet at the time of the photo. Since then, the red leeched out and made it look a bit muddy. Gonna have to figure out how to avoid that in the future. Probably need to let it dry more between steps. And maybe put oil-based clear or shellac between the dye and the final water-based clear coats.

I'm also still getting pitting when I try to rub out a gloss finish, but I have a feeling that's just because a single day isn't long enough to cure 

Did this one this afternoon to try out some new dyes. Would be fun on a guitar.


This one doesn't have any clear on it in that photo. Might still be wet though.


----------



## IGC

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Yeah, a few different types.
> 
> The first one basically had nothing - I tried wiping some shellac on but ended up wiping it off trying to buff it too quickly.
> 
> The second photo the blue one on the left has blue-tinted poly on it. The one on the right also does, but it is less tinted and thinner. The ones underneath the one on the right have varying degrees of poly or tinted poly on them.
> 
> The final one just has clear poly on it - one coat, wet at the time of the photo. Since then, the red leeched out and made it look a bit muddy. Gonna have to figure out how to avoid that in the future. Probably need to let it dry more between steps. And maybe put oil-based clear or shellac between the dye and the final water-based clear coats.
> 
> I'm also still getting pitting when I try to rub out a gloss finish, but I have a feeling that's just because a single day isn't long enough to cure
> 
> Did this one this afternoon to try out some new dyes. Would be fun on a guitar.
> View attachment 57004
> 
> This one doesn't have any clear on it in that photo. Might still be wet though.



Interesting, thanks for the share!


----------



## Omzig

Nice dye's LiveOVErdrive I haven't had much of a play with dye's and stains myself apart from one build ive always gone with clears/oils or soild paint jobs,might be time to buy a sample pack of some and have a play,that is after i finish messing with getting the 80's lava/crackle finish im currently playing with down 

So this is almost done,2 fecking years on.....this refinish has been my nemisis! if it could go wrong it went wrong from the first coat of paints not curing (plasikote) to the clear reacting on the 2nd repaint....blah blah blah i almost set fire to the thing






Just got to cut down and mod the wang bar to have a set of grip o'rings on the tip like my other mavricks (ringed from her pleasure) as the org bar was missing when i brought it and maverick parts are expensive/hard to find.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

My god that turned out beautiful. Are those dragonfire pickups?


----------



## Omzig

Thx LiveOVErdrive glad yo dig the bubblegum pink...kinda reminds me of the colour adrian vandenberg had on that Peavey he played back in the 80's,so despite all the shit it gave me im glad i stuck at it as im really happy with how it turned out 

As for the Pup's no not dragonfire but standard Maverick f1/3/x1 pups from the first gen/run of maverick guitars,all designed by trevor wilkinson,i pulled these out of a Maverick X1 i have that's also on the refinish pile,as the Duncan D's the last owner installed were pretty trashed/rusty (the guitar stored was in a part converted damp barn when i got it...) there pretty good pup's but i have an unused set of tesla zebra VR Extremes that are going in it tomorrow,i'll try and throw a thread up once it's all done..not sure if i kept many progress pics as it was well pissing me off at the time


----------



## Soya

Whipped up a dummy load to test out a few solid state amp boards.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> Whipped up a dummy load to test out a few solid state amp boards.


That's pretty cool. I always thought you could run solid state power amps without a load though?


----------



## Soya

From what I understand the amp needs to be under full load and just before clipping to get the most accurate reading off a multimeter, and the closest resemblance to real world use.


----------



## BlackMastodon

saved said:


> Building a headless with help from my best friend



Goat friend! This forum doesn't have nearly enough goat pictures, especially ones that help build guitars!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

BlackMastodon said:


> Goat friend! This forum doesn't have nearly enough goat pictures, especially ones that help build *GOATars*!


Ftfy 

+1 to more goat pictures.


----------



## saved

When i am talking about my GF,you know what i mean..not girl friend (i am married allready) but goat friend


----------



## KR250

I moved into a new house, so re-setting up my shop space from scratch. Lots of work but the payoff is that I have a LOT more room to work with. I think the area on the right is what I'll dedicate for wood working, there is a garage door opening up to the back yard just to the right at the start of the video. Far left will eventually become dedicated studio/recording space. Today's job is patching the leaking concrete and water sealing it with Xypex concentrate. Cool stuff from the videos I've seen, it's moisture activated and creates a crystalline structure that seeps and fills all of the pores in the concrete.

On my "work bench" is my ET build, doing a pickup swap but I didn't make the pockets deep enough for the new pickups (previous were much shallower), so had to disassemble everything and carefully route a little deeper. Went with the Nazgul/Sentient combo and really digging that.

Can't figure out how to embed video here yet, so here is a link.
http://www.kylerice.com/pictures/Guitar/shop/20171112_182555.mp4


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Can anyone comment as to whether it is worth it to buy a 6 inch benchtop buffer/grinder for buffing out gloss finishes? I've tried the foam buffing wheel attachments for my drill but they just don't seem to work for me as well as hand buffing, and I'm wondering if a proper wheel would be better.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Can anyone comment as to whether it is worth it to buy a 6 inch benchtop buffer/grinder for buffing out gloss finishes? I've tried the foam buffing wheel attachments for my drill but they just don't seem to work for me as well as hand buffing, and I'm wondering if a proper wheel would be better.


Never mind. Turns out my finish is just too soft, even after months of curing. I can still mark it with a fingernail. Probably applied it too thick or something. 

(or water based finish just isn't going to work)


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Never mind. Turns out my finish is just too soft, even after months of curing. I can still mark it with a fingernail. Probably applied it too thick or something.
> 
> (or water based finish just isn't going to work)


that was my experience with water based polycrylic. Took around 4 months or more to properly cure with the multiple layers I had on it. I'd never use it again just due to how long it took to cure.


----------



## pondman

KnightBrolaire said:


> that was my experience with water based polycrylic. Took around 4 months or more to properly cure with the multiple layers I had on it. I'd never use it again just due to how long it took to cure.



It never cures, I gave up using that stuff years ago.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Picked up my painted parts today. This will be an Apex-inspired Strat: matte black pickguard and pink Aftermaths...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> that was my experience with water based polycrylic. Took around 4 months or more to properly cure with the multiple layers I had on it. I'd never use it again just due to how long it took to cure.





pondman said:


> It never cures, I gave up using that stuff years ago.



I've tried polycrylic and had the same experience. This stuff is the varathane gloss floor finish, which I thought was better, but it still seems to be not good enough. I have some "aquacoat water based lacquer" I'm going to try but I don't have high hopes for it. 

Do I have any good options for high gloss other than 2k? I really don't want to deal with 2k, or spraying anything that isn't water based.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I've tried polycrylic and had the same experience. This stuff is the varathane gloss floor finish, which I thought was better, but it still seems to be not good enough. I have some "aquacoat water based lacquer" I'm going to try but I don't have high hopes for it.
> 
> Do I have any good options for high gloss other than 2k? I really don't want to deal with 2k, or spraying anything that isn't water based.


someone recommended the behlen rock hard table top finish to me, haven't tried it yet. you could also try an epoxy finish, it'll be harder than a rock.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> someone recommended the behlen rock hard table top finish to me, haven't tried it yet. you could also try an epoxy finish, it'll be harder than a rock.


I guess there's no getting away from nasty chemicals


----------



## KR250

I'm trying out the General Finishes water based products. I bought satin and gloss, have only used the satin so far using the brush on method. It dried really fast, although I didn't put on enough coats to buff out. Going to try spraying next time as well. I'm hoping the gloss works out, I'm in the same boat with not wanting to use 2K.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I guess there's no getting away from nasty chemicals


yeah I'm using up my last 2 cans of 2k, after that I'm going back to epoxy/oil finishes.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I've found rumors online that say you can spray and even maybe cure lacquer outside in the winter (curing in a non-heated garage). Apparently the low humidity offsets the coldness somewhat. Might have to give that a try.


----------



## Lemonbaby

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I've found rumors online that say you can spray and even maybe cure lacquer outside in the winter (curing in a non-heated garage). Apparently the low humidity offsets the coldness somewhat. Might have to give that a try.


Curing a sprayed finish has nothing to do with humidity levels - you're not drying wood. It's a chemical process that speeds up with temperature and energy supplied e.g. UV light.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Sorry double post...


----------



## Lemonbaby

Finished my body yesterday, the neck still needs some work (fine sanding, frets/fretwork, oil). Sorry for the unsharp picture, light is terrible today and I was too lazy to set up the tripod...


----------



## Walshy

Wow, very nice take on a Strat!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I LOVE that color combo on the strat. Also that picture is actually pretty darn sharp. Cell phone camera?


----------



## Lemonbaby

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I LOVE that color combo on the strat. Also that picture is actually pretty darn sharp. Cell phone camera?


I use an Olympus E-M5 + Lightroom. This one only got somewhat sharp by downsampling.

As you might have noticed, the slot for the three way switch is too wide and a little misaligned. In lack of a better tool for this, I usually drill 2mm holes and work through the plastic with a thin file. Do you guys have any tips how this can be done better/faster/cleaner?


----------



## pondman

Lemonbaby said:


> I use an Olympus E-M5 + Lightroom. This one only got somewhat sharp by downsampling.
> 
> As you might have noticed, the slot for the three way switch is too wide and a little misaligned. In lack of a better tool for this, I usually drill 2mm holes and work through the plastic with a thin file. Do you guys have any tips how this can be done better/faster/cleaner?



I drill 2 holes then join em up with one of these https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/abrasiv...IvRA0pC1xnlxfqlkDEP9kw4crYEsmfV8aAmT3EALw_wcB

or 

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/produ...G4AlV9Q0zXQVvVJn3gsaAs6yEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## electriceye

Lemonbaby said:


> Finished my body yesterday, the neck still needs some work (fine sanding, frets/fretwork, oil). Sorry for the unsharp picture, light is terrible today and I was too lazy to set up the tripod...



I love the gray. Been thinking about making a superstrat myself with a slightly lighter gray. Never thought of adding pink, but now.... hmmm...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

electriceye said:


> I love the gray. Been thinking about making a superstrat myself with a slightly lighter gray. Never thought of adding pink, but now.... hmmm...


I've been wanting to do an RG-like thing in "bland 1960s control panel gray" lately.







Like the L-shaped bank of buttons on the right.


----------



## Lemonbaby

pondman said:


> I drill 2 holes then join em up with one of these https://www.zoro.co.uk/shop/abrasiv...IvRA0pC1xnlxfqlkDEP9kw4crYEsmfV8aAmT3EALw_wcB
> 
> or
> 
> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/produ...G4AlV9Q0zXQVvVJn3gsaAs6yEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


Oh great - I have a Dremel and the EZ Click discs at home and didn't even think about it...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Dear God, why are we not all using epoxy clear coat?



Thats a water based Acrylic sparkle finish I've been messing around with, and a layer of epoxy on top. Sanded and polished to a mirror shine just three days after applying with a brush. No smell, no VOCs, nontoxic, not flammable. The only drawback I've seen so far is its a little bit of a pain to mix up.


----------



## pondman

Came across these massive Cocobolo boards at a new supplier today, over 12 feet high and around 3 inch thick. I wouldn't get these in my small work shop let alone on my work bench.
£2500 each plus vat 



DSC_0125 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


----------



## KR250

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Dear God, why are we not all using epoxy clear coat?
> View attachment 57396
> 
> 
> Thats a water based Acrylic sparkle finish I've been messing around with, and a layer of epoxy on top. Sanded and polished to a mirror shine just three days after applying with a brush. No smell, no VOCs, nontoxic, not flammable. The only drawback I've seen so far is its a little bit of a pain to mix up.



What type of Epoxy? I used Zpoxy as a test and came out pretty decent but the fumes made it not pleasant to work with. Have been using it as a thin base layer though.


----------



## Pikka Bird

pondman said:


> ..I wouldn't get these in my small work shop let alone on my work bench.


Dude, start building for profit and one of those babes could _be_ your work bench.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KR250 said:


> What type of Epoxy? I used Zpoxy as a test and came out pretty decent but the fumes made it not pleasant to work with. Have been using it as a thin base layer though.


Famowood GlazeCoat
It may smell while you're mixing and applying it but I wore a respirator. Didn't smell while curing. 

Definitely double read all warnings before you try it but from what I've read, epoxy is pretty non dangerous compared to pretty much all finishes in the fumes department. Don't want it touching your skin though.


----------



## KR250

Ok cool, I know that most epoxies can be a sensitizer so have avoided doing too much with them other than as a base, and also for all the sanding required (or what it took me to get it level). Might go back and try it again for a gloss application but want to try the water based spray on first. Thanks for posting that, I've only had two decent finishes so far and it was using epoxy with satin poly over the top.


----------



## Mr_Mar10

Pretty much finished this subtle ss  
Made from spare (reasonable quality) bits & my last 1 piece block of chestnut 
It’s great fun to play so far!! .. even the alibaba emg copies sound good! Already shreds better than my troublesome previous build lol

Next red ebony top regius clone mmmm


----------



## Mr_Mar10

Quick mock-up of next one before I glued veneer top on  not 100% on the zebra pickups yet


----------



## Ernesto

You guys are gonna laugh. I did this last night.

My mom is an amazing pyrographer and said she wants to wood burn some guitars. Since I'm only set up to build metal guitars right now, and just barely set up to do that, I decided to cut up an old left for dead Schecter 006. I probably carved half of the weight out of it and it's really comfortable now. It reminds me of some other guitar shape but I just did it by eye/feel and that's how it came out. Does anyone know how to get the little brass string through doo dads out? They were totally corroded. I was just going to drill them out and make new ones but figured I'd ask if there's an easier way.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Ernesto said:


> [...] I decided to cut up an old left for dead Schecter 006. I probably carved half of the weight out of it and it's really comfortable now. It reminds me of some other guitar shape but I just did it by eye/feel and that's how it came out. Does anyone know how to get the little brass string through doo dads out?


Taking out too much weight might result in neck-dive with this guitar design, but let's see. To remove the string through inserts, use a thread cutter and pull them out with a screw...


----------



## Omzig

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Dear God, why are we not all using epoxy clear coat?
> 
> Thats a water based Acrylic sparkle finish I've been messing around with, and a layer of epoxy on top. Sanded and polished to a mirror shine just three days after applying with a brush. No smell, no VOCs, nontoxic, not flammable. The only drawback I've seen so far is its a little bit of a pain to mix up.



That looks super,my bro was telling me about some guys he knows via archery stuff & he does an epoxy finish with whats called the "massey finish" using quick 2 part epoxy thinned with acetone as a carrier,as photobucket has fucked up the web i can't seem to find any good pics of it as a finish atm 
but im going to give it a try myself mid week once i get the HM strat mod out the way.


----------



## Ernesto

Lemonbaby said:


> Taking out too much weight might result in neck-dive with this guitar design, but let's see. To remove the string through inserts, use a thread cutter and pull them out with a screw...



I left all of the meat between the neck and bridge so I think it should be ok. I mainly removed the horns and a bunch of thickness at the sides.

Thanks for the tip on the inserts. It sounds like either removal method would ruin them though. Is it best to pull them from the front or back? I sanded them down far enough that the little flanges are almost gone but it looked to me like they had to be put in there in two pieces.


----------



## pondman

I'd be drilling those out to avoid tear out on the body.


----------



## electriceye

Started on my third build last night. A white limba V (you know, Korina), to '67 specs (because that's the template I have), with a nice, striped ebony board. Although, I hate to cover the limba with the larger pickguard, so I'm likely going to alter it and make it a lot more like a '58. Gonna throw in a gold EMG Het Set. Undecided on the headstock. I'm probably going to go with basic gloss black, but pondering one of the figured laminates I have. Only issue is they clash with the striped ebony. My last V took me 11 months to build. I'm hoping I can bang this one out in 3, with a lot less mistakes (already made one in cutting out HS shape too soon, but fixed it). I'm not a building wizard like a certain someone who likes to work one-handed, but, I'm getting there.


----------



## FetzEgemony

Glued the top on the amaranth 7 string tele i posted here before..


being my first build i'm Learning so many things.. made so much errors which i hope i will avoid next time..


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Getting a little inlay practice making a Hanukkah gift for my girlfriend's mom.




Maple coasters with exotic wood inlays. Left to right : purpleheart, wenge, Bloodwood, Rosewood. 

The rest of that piece of purpleheart is going to be a fretboard soon


----------



## Walshy

You're really doing great work with your CNC now, Live. I think I'd endlessly be making little trinkets like that if ever I pulled the trigger on one!


----------



## BlackMastodon

Started making saw dust again today for the first time in a long time. Building myself a desk so I can finally set up my office. No pics yet but I'll throw some up when I finish.


----------



## KR250

Thinking ahead to a future guitar build, I bought this quarter sawn 1 piece of Ziricote earlier in the year. Debating halving it into 2 thin set necks, or keep as 1 piece for a neck through, Or.... cut it and add two strips of purpleheart for a 5 piece neck. What say you? Keep it one piece, NT?


----------



## jwade

Just picked up a fresh four foot slab of swamp ash, most likely for a Fireman 8 string build, AND a beautiful piece of Honduran mahogany for the body of a lefty SG copy I'm going to build for my little brother


----------



## electriceye

My hair metal superstrat is alllllmost done!! I am loving the Spraymax 1k clear. I may leave it as-is and not bother level-sanding and polishing it.


----------



## Soya

Guess my fret cutters didn't like the stainless wire.


----------



## marcwormjim

My cutters didn’t fall apart, but similarly struggled with SS. I ended up using a dremel to cut from the tang-side. If stainless refrets ever become a regular thing for me, I’ll likely invest in some dedicated, heavy-duty nippers.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I ruined a set of cutters on SS frets, too. Then I bought a dedicated set of fret nippers made for SS. 

... Except that dedicated set looks just like the ones you just broke. Uh oh


----------



## Soya

Yeah I will be going the dremel route now, was hoping to avoid the dust and the noise but also doesn't require a palm busting squeeze.


----------



## KR250

What brand? I've used the Stew Mac cutters for 4 SS fretted guitars so far and see no visible damage to them, nor have had any issues. (knock on wood)


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Stew Mac, but I think the pair I ruined was a fret puller, not intended to be used as a cutter. I notched the blades real bad.


----------



## Walshy

Chris from Carillion once told me he bought his cutters from eBay for about £20 and they were just regular ones and he hadn't had issues with them being blunted. Look for chrome vanadium, I reckon.


----------



## Walshy

KR250 said:


> Thinking ahead to a future guitar build, I bought this quarter sawn 1 piece of Ziricote earlier in the year. Debating halving it into 2 thin set necks, or keep as 1 piece for a neck through, Or.... cut it and add two strips of purpleheart for a 5 piece neck. What say you? Keep it one piece, NT?



Whoa, that must have cost a fortune to get quartersawn ziri like that! All heartwood as well. 

I'd keep it as a one-piece neck thru due to the sheer beauty of this species. I can understand the urge to get two blanks from it though if you did laminate. Do a build thread when you decide what you're doing. Loved your last few.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Today, what's on my workbench is... 

NOTHING! HAHAHAHA




I finally cleaned my shop. As I'm sure all of you can relate, it is a damn fine feeling.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

KR250 said:


> Thinking ahead to a future guitar build, I bought this quarter sawn 1 piece of Ziricote earlier in the year. Debating halving it into 2 thin set necks, or keep as 1 piece for a neck through, Or.... cut it and add two strips of purpleheart for a 5 piece neck. What say you? Keep it one piece, NT?


Ziricote and maple lams would look super tasty


----------



## KnightBrolaire

KR250 said:


> Thinking ahead to a future guitar build, I bought this quarter sawn 1 piece of Ziricote earlier in the year. Debating halving it into 2 thin set necks, or keep as 1 piece for a neck through, Or.... cut it and add two strips of purpleheart for a 5 piece neck. What say you? Keep it one piece, NT?


Ziricote and maple lams would look super tasty


----------



## Grand Rabbit

KnightBrolaire said:


> Ziricote and maple lams would look super tasty


Yeah, that would look sweet. Purple heart and dark brown woods go nicely together but I find that it puts out more of a mood than something more familiar like maple. 

I like the idea of the neck thru or a set neck. Idk about making two thin ones, but a real sturdy set neck out of that would be amazing. You could save the cut offs for pick up covers!


----------



## Pikka Bird

KR250 said:


> Thinking ahead to a future guitar build, I bought this quarter sawn 1 piece of Ziricote earlier in the year. Debating halving it into 2 thin set necks, or keep as 1 piece for a neck through, Or.... cut it and add two strips of purpleheart for a 5 piece neck. What say you? Keep it one piece, NT?



Could you maybe do this, and make the smaller rectangle into a fretboard (for another build if you ask me- I think ziri neck AND fretboard would be a bit too busy)?:


----------



## KR250

Lots of good comments, thank you. I definitely want to use as much of it as possible. Current plan is to keep it 1 piece, NT. Probably mate it some black limba with no top or headstock veneer, and a PME or ebony fretboard. I will try to squeeze a neck blank out of billet too, so good call. I'll save that for another build though. 


Pikka Bird said:


> Could you maybe do this, and make the smaller rectangle into a fretboard (for another build if you ask me- I think ziri neck AND fretboard would be a bit too busy)?:
> View attachment 58071


----------



## Lemonbaby

Had some time to start a new ergo-headless 7. Body is walnut with maple top and a black 0.3mm laminate in between. Still need to decide on the neck, the flamed maple might be long enough for a regular guitar as well. Hardware is from Mera, I don't really like the Hipshot and ABM headless stuff. I'll use one humbucker only and decided to go with a C-Pig...


----------



## failsafe

First coat of Gorilla Vanilla.


----------



## Grand Rabbit

Lemonbaby said:


> Hardware is from Mera, I don't really like the Hipshot and ABM headless stuff.



Nice choice on the mera, I just finished a headless 7 with mera parts, fanned fret and ordered another mera 6 for a straight fret guitar. Have you used mera headless stuff before?


----------



## Lemonbaby

Grand Rabbit said:


> Nice choice on the mera, I just finished a headless 7 with mera parts, fanned fret and ordered another mera 6 for a straight fret guitar. Have you used mera headless stuff before?


First run with Mera - very nice guy to deal with and hardware quality is top notch. Unfortunately I measured that the string spacing is 66mm, so the strings will not 100% align with the pole pieces of my bridge PU.


----------



## Grand Rabbit

Lemonbaby said:


> First run with Mera - very nice guy to deal with and hardware quality is top notch. Unfortunately I measured that the string spacing is 66mm, so the strings will not 100% align with the pole pieces of my bridge PU.



Ah yeah, Dmitry's string spacing on the 7 str bridges seem to be a bit unique. I really like the hardware, once you get the hang of it it's reliable and it just feels 'right' when you're playing, as if the metals he chose compliment the tone of the strings very well.

My biggest challenge so far has been in aligning the string locks at the top of the neck with the strings, along with actually seating them perfectly flat. I'm sure it's because I'm not very skilled yet and you probably won't find it nearly as difficult, but just throwing it out there that that's been something which I haven't gotten right even after two attempts.

The first time I just measured on the guitar itself and they came out misaligned. The second time I drew the measurements on a piece of paper, loaded it into photoshop and tried to guess the correct scale to print out a template, it was closer but still not perfect. This next time I'm going to measure and draw the string lock spacing on a computer in order to print it perfectly to scale so it will probably work a lot better.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Today, what's on my workbench is...
> 
> NOTHING! HAHAHAHA
> 
> View attachment 58069
> 
> 
> I finally cleaned my shop. As I'm sure all of you can relate, it is a damn fine feeling.



So nice. My shop only gets cleaned every couple years.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Building a new t-track bed for my cnc machine.







I'm going to plane the upper slats down to be closer to flush with the tracks, but it seems to work well so far.


----------



## HUGH JAYNUS

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Dear God, why are we not all using epoxy clear coat?
> View attachment 57396
> 
> 
> Thats a water based Acrylic sparkle finish I've been messing around with, and a layer of epoxy on top. Sanded and polished to a mirror shine just three days after applying with a brush. No smell, no VOCs, nontoxic, not flammable. The only drawback I've seen so far is its a little bit of a pain to mix up.


Which one you using?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

HUGH JAYNUS said:


> Which one you using?



Famowood Glaze Coat

Disclaimer : everything I've read about safety was not specifically about that brand.


----------



## pondman

Went shopping today over hill and down dale and found this beauty.



001 by 

Jarrah burl.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Tuned up my cnc machine. Built a t track bed for it. Squared up the spindle. Added a new fence (those 5 pegs) 




Ready to mill a neck!


----------



## IGC

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Tuned up my cnc machine. Built a t track bed for it. Squared up the spindle. Added a new fence (those 5 pegs)
> 
> View attachment 58421
> 
> 
> Ready to mill a neck!



Is that with the aluminum t-track I'v been seeing all over Pinterest? Looks like some handy stuff.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

IGC said:


> Is that with the aluminum t-track I'v been seeing all over Pinterest? Looks like some handy stuff.


Probably. I haven't been watching Pinterest, but it IS aluminum and it IS t-track. I got it on Amazon. Works nice so far.


----------



## electriceye

Made a ton of progress on my latest SS. This is gonna be a hot pink stain with black hardware. Have a striped ebony board for her, too.


----------



## Soya

Picked up a cheap belt/disc sander, gutted it and made a table for it. Turned it into a horizontal sander/radius sander to attempt my first guitar body.


----------



## Deegatron

Soya... that.... is a really freaking good idea.....


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> Picked up a cheap belt/disc sander, gutted it and made a table for it. Turned it into a horizontal sander/radius sander to attempt my first guitar body.


That seems WAY more useful than the spindle sander i'm using.


----------



## Soya

Well the downside is the radius can't be changed on the end, so I'll still have to use a smaller spindle on a drill press to get inside of a super strat style body.


----------



## BlackMastodon

I was going to post a bunch of pictures last night but I guess I can't embed pictures from Google Photos like I thought. 

Anyway, I finally finished my desk and set it up in my office last night. Seems pretty damned sturdy and I like it! Minimalist, mostly nice looking, has a footrest, even uses machine screws and T nuts like all the best guitars.  I need to find a more reliable way to do lap joints for this middle X's, or maybe just not try to route them out when it's "warm" in December (-5 C) and take smaller passes and test fit before finishing.


----------



## Soya

Could make them separate pieces and use biscuits and glue to join them also.


----------



## BlackMastodon

I used dowels to join the outsides and the X's together. I thought about biscuits but didn't have access to a tool.


----------



## ElRay

Lemonbaby said:


> Taking out too much weight might result in neck-dive with this guitar design, but let's see. To remove the string through inserts, use a thread cutter and pull them out with a screw...


Good idea. 

Has anybody tried driving them out from the top with a drift pin?


----------



## KR250

Scored this piece of Buckeye off eBay. Could not resist. About half way through my bass project, but planning out the next couple of guitars (6 string NT for sure, another 7, 5 string MS bass, and possibly an 8). I'll see if I can get a good picture of all the pieces together to figure out what to use where. 

Have this BE and Amboyna Burl tops, Ash and Black Limba bodies, assorted fret boards (PH, PME x2, Ziricote, Gabon Ebony, Macassar Ebony), plus PH and Wenge in long sections for NT designs. Also a Cocobolo top that was going to be used on the bass but decided against it. 


Wood pR0n:


----------



## Ernesto

Not a guitar but it's for a tool that will help me finish building my CNC machine, which will help me finish the guitars I've already started.

DIY floating/breakaway torch holder for a friend's CNC plasma table:


----------



## Ernesto

ElRay said:


> Good idea.
> 
> Has anybody tried driving them out from the top with a drift pin?



I'm gonna leave them in there and make brass trim pieces to cover them up.


----------



## Ernesto

Got the wood burned body back. Now I just have to finish my cnc machine so I can make all of the brass trim pieces to finish it out.


----------



## BlackMastodon

I picked up some wood yesterday with my brother to make a couple of canoe paddles for my dad's 50th birthday this coming April.

We're gonna do Cherry/Padauk/Soft Maple/Padauk/Cherry laminates so I think it should look real nice. This will be my first time working with Padauk. After my local supplier machined it for us and I carried it to and from my car I already noticed my hands were itchy.  Definitely going to have to get a respirator and wear sleeves and gloves when working with it.


----------



## crackout

Been working pretty intensely the last 9 days.
It's almost ready: My take on a B2 with some adaptions to my liking (recessed jack, no scarf, belly cut, smooth arm rest etc.). NGD thread coming in the next days.


----------



## Soya

Planing a body blank is great when the bit comes loose in the middle and ruins the whole piece. Really regretting attempting this project.


----------



## crackout

I feel you. While I was routing the side thickness profile of a neck the bearing came loose and the bit chewed away more than anticipated.


----------



## Deegatron

Loose bit's usually happen to me when I am trying to take too much material with a single pass. too much material in a single pass causes vibration --> vibration loosens the collet --> bit digs into workpiece. sucks man... 
doesn't look like your piece is completely ruined.... just need to add a top... perhaps a nice chambered design with a maple top?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

That happened to me doing a truss rod channel once. So much for that neck.


----------



## TuffyKohler

Soya said:


> Planing a body blank is great when the bit comes loose in the middle and ruins the whole piece. Really regretting attempting this project.



This is an opportunity...

If I quit after anything bad happened while building I would quit almost every day. 
Misaligned joints are opportunities to learn inlays, bindings are an opportunity to ‘hide’ a bad joint Between that maple top and mahogany body...

I’ve started with an ash body over 2 inches thickthat I intended to plane flat on one side and use for a solid ash body. 

When all was said and done, it’s a 1/4” ash top on a mahogany body. 

Mistakes happen. Don’t let them stop you. Keep plugging away.


----------



## Soya

Deegatron said:


> Loose bit's usually happen to me when I am trying to take too much material with a single pass. too much material in a single pass causes vibration --> vibration loosens the collet --> bit digs into workpiece. sucks man...
> doesn't look like your piece is completely ruined.... just need to add a top... perhaps a nice chambered design with a maple top?



Ideally yes, but I am not capable of gluing a top over an arm contour yet. Also it'll be much cheaper to go back to my local supplier and get another piece of ash cut off so i will just start over.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Soya said:


> Ideally yes, but I am not capable of gluing a top over an arm contour yet. Also it'll be much cheaper to go back to my local supplier and get another piece of ash cut off so i will just start over.


all you really need for gluing over a contour is to cut some kerfs into the wood to be able to bend it.


----------



## Soya

Correct, though the main hurdle is that I don't own enough clamps to sufficiently glue a top on. Some day.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Making a new faceplate for my Mark V. Found a nice chunk of figured Maple and I'm doing a nice shellac finish on it.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Making a new faceplate for my Mark V. Found a nice chunk of figured Maple and I'm doing a nice shellac finish on it.
> 
> View attachment 59442



Finished!


----------



## Soya

Looks good! I may just have to do something like that to mine when it arrives, i can never leave anything alone.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> Looks good! I may just have to do something like that to mine when it arrives, i can never leave anything alone.


Go for it. It's a nice reversible mod, and not hard to do, really.

Tip: in a pinch, you can make black piping by folding a string or cord inside a strip of electrical tape.


----------



## ElRay

Soya said:


> Correct, though the main hurdle is that I don't own enough clamps to sufficiently glue a top on. Some day.


Alternatives:

Sandbags
Plate Weights
This:





Or this:




Or this:



You can also do a short version.
Or a simple press:


----------



## TuffyKohler

Long lengths of silicone or surgical tubing are fantastic for clamping odd shapes..


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

That's it. I'm done with stainless frets. At least for now.


----------



## KR250

Wow! Can't quite read the brand name. I've done 4 now with the stew mac ones that have help up great. So far...


----------



## Soya

LiveOVErdrive said:


> That's it. I'm done with stainless frets. At least for now.
> 
> View attachment 59552


Boy that looks familiar, mine did the same thing. I use a dremel with a cutoff wheel now.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

To be fair they were a pretty cheap pair. Gonna buy another for nickel silver tho.


----------



## MoonJelly

I had a pair do that but I was 'abusing' them.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I was cutting the long wire strips into individual frets, which seems to be harder on them than just nipping the ends. Might have to just cut with a dremel in the future.


----------



## Soya

What router bit are you folks using to cut the lip into the control cavity for the cover to sit flush? Rabbeting bit with a large bottom bearing?


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Dunno about everyone else, but I used template bit with a 1/4" cutting height.

https://www.toolstoday.com/dado-clean-out-router-bits.html


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Before i went cnc I used the same template bit as I used for all the other cavities. I just made two templates. One for the control cavity and one for the control cavity cover.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Here's a question: how do people get a smooth finish on a maple fretboard. Mine always get uneven between the frets and sanding between them is really difficult.


----------



## KR250

I ended up fine sanding before doing fretting, but have only done a BE Maple so far. 

For cavity cover cutouts, I've used raised templates (3/4" MDF) to space the bearing up high enough for a thin cut out.


----------



## crackout

Soya said:


> What router bit are you folks using to cut the lip into the control cavity for the cover to sit flush? Rabbeting bit with a large bottom bearing?


I use this one from Rall-Online.


----------



## electriceye

HaMMerHeD said:


> Dunno about everyone else, but I used template bit with a 1/4" cutting height.
> 
> https://www.toolstoday.com/dado-clean-out-router-bits.html



That's exactly what I use as well!


----------



## MoonJelly

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Here's a question: how do people get a smooth finish on a maple fretboard. Mine always get uneven between the frets and sanding between them is really difficult.



I love maple fretboards, more than half of my builds I've used maple. I have noticed some pieces will swell a bit with humid climates/big swings in temperature. Best solution I've got is to fret about a third of the board and then re-cut the remaining slots because they start to close up. I used to go from the 24th to the 1st, but now I intentionally skip to every third slot. Then I will try to push just the corner of a fret in the slot to measure how tight it is. Seems to be a good measure if I need to re-cut any slots.


----------



## KR250

String day! Somewhere around 20 sets of custom tension matched sets for various tuning's and scale lengths. Went through Just strings this time, super fast shipping!


----------



## jwade

The way you have it laying there looks like you have a crazy 15 string and a 9 string.


----------



## MrYakob

Had this build in progress for almost a year now but been distracted with other things. Finally got some finish on it the other night and wow I'm glad I bought 4 of these walnut tops when I did!


----------



## KR250

Figuring out the next few builds, leaning towards the middle combo of Ash/BEB/Ziricote for the upcoming multi-scale bass. Mahogany/Amboyna burl/Macassar ebony for 7 string guitar, and still trying to sort out the neck through ziricote piece, Limba, Cocobolo.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

6 string build. Walnut top, spanish cedar body, walnut and sapele neck, roasted birdseye maple, gold EVO metal thingies too...




















Smooth fret access, feels good.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

threw some glitter into some leftover shellac and brushed it on to see how it would turn out. seems to work relatively well compared to when I was using spray adhesive and just smearing glitter everywhere


----------



## electriceye

I have been making somewhat slow progress lately, with two kids in the middle of hockey tryouts and tournaments the past few weeks. Really taking my time on this one, since I don't want to screw it up. Other than getting brass inserts for the pups and filling in about 100 dents in the back of the poplar body, it's just about ready to be stained and painted. Doing a hot pink stain, natural binding and black back. I got a SD Mustaine Thrash Factor set for it, so really anxious to get her done. (I haven't even touched my white limba Gibson V replace in months)


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> threw some glitter into some leftover shellac and brushed it on to see how it would turn out. seems to work relatively well compared to when I was using spray adhesive and just smearing glitter everywhere


I've had good luck spraying clear coat and sprinkling loose glitter on it, then covering with clear epoxy after it dries.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I've had good luck spraying clear coat and sprinkling loose glitter on it, then covering with clear epoxy after it dries.


yeah I've watched a couple of videos of how other people do it and this seemed like the easiest option given I don't have a spray gun, plus shellac works with most finishes.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> yeah I've watched a couple of videos of how other people do it and this seemed like the easiest option given I don't have a spray gun, plus shellac works with most finishes.


Nice. Well yours looks really good. I tried brushing glitter in clear before and got brush marks in the glitter.

To be clear, with my method, the spraying isn't needed. It's just what I did.

I do love me some shellac though.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Nice. Well yours looks really good. I tried brushing glitter in clear before and got brush marks in the glitter.
> 
> To be clear, with my method, the spraying isn't needed. It's just what I did.
> 
> I do love me some shellac though.


I tried something similar to that before where I essentially doused my test piece in clear and then put glitter everywhere. this seems a little bit less messy. I'm not finding glitter all over my clothes/garage for 6 months 
the only thing I've figured out with shellac is to not over brush it. put the coat down, let it self level.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> I tried something similar to that before where I essentially doused my test piece in clear and then put glitter everywhere. this seems a little bit less messy. I'm not finding glitter all over my clothes/garage for 6 months
> the only thing I've figured out with shellac is to not over brush it. put the coat down, let it self level.


Cool. Gonna have to try that.


----------



## Omzig

Guy next door to my brother house (were my workshop is) died last year @ the age of 87,He was a real nice guy and was always interested in my guitar builds/projects,any hows the new guy who bought his house turns out to also a real nice guy (also a reggae drummer) and gave me the old guys fireplace he'ed ripped out after he found out i build guitars and stuff.

I wasn't quite sure wtf it was when he gave it me as it was covered in some super hard ass yacht varnish,first i thought it was walnut






But after having to go down to 60 git to remove the finish it turns out it Mahogany! (real Mahogany id say as its been in there for 50+ years) stripped back and damped down






Still needs to get jointed but atm it's just over 6"'s wide by 1 1/2 thick so once i pair it up with some mad (flame/quit/spalt) beech i have i should be able to grab 2 body blanks from it for some headless builds im planing


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Omzig said:


> Guy next door to my brother house (were my workshop is) died last year @ the age of 87,He was a real nice guy and was always interested in my guitar builds/projects,any hows the new guy who bought his house turns out to also a real nice guy (also a reggae drummer) and gave me the old guys fireplace he'ed ripped out after he found out i build guitars and stuff.
> 
> I wasn't quite sure wtf it was when he gave it me as it was covered in some super hard ass yacht varnish,first i thought it was walnut
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But after having to go down to 60 git to remove the finish it turns out it Mahogany! (real Mahogany id say as its been in there for 50+ years) stripped back and damped down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still needs to get jointed but atm it's just over 6"'s wide by 1 1/2 thick so once i pair it up with some mad (flame/quit/spalt) beech i have i should be able to grab 2 body blanks from it for some headless builds im planing


Oh man that's the dream right there . Been watching craigslist for similar finds but not had any luck. An old, broken table or desk would be ideal.


----------



## Omzig

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Oh man that's the dream right there . Been watching craigslist for similar finds but not had any luck. An old, broken table or desk would be ideal.



Shame your not my side of the pond id have sent you some along 

My brother also got me a load of Mahogany from some old window frames out of a funeral home his company was gutting/refitting,this stuff has been in for place 25+ years come all weathers and is real Mahogany (ive seen the original fitters receipts) 

I got about 35 of these frame sections in all as well as some much larger 5x5" by 10+ foot....all of it was going in a skip/chipper/burnt before he rescued it for me,god i hate it when people waste such good stuff,dumb fuckers






Should be set for neck blanks for a fair old while lol


----------



## failsafe

Swapped out the 81 set for the Het Set that I originally had in my PRS. I think it classed it up some.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Golly that's pretty.


----------



## KR250

Picked up a Jackson King V today as a trade. Did a bunch of maintenance, fret polish, drill out the low tuner, string change, adjust the stripped out FR bridge and played for a bit. Great axe, but I hate FR with a passion. The extreme headstock angle makes keeping the strings on the nut a bit of a challenge without the locking nuts in place. Gave it a chance though, but I just so happen to have an extra Evertune bridge that will fit nicely.... 

The HT7 on the right was purchased with the Evertune bridge installed, I did a fret polish, new tusq nut, and swapped out pickups for Nazgul/Sentient combo. It's got a 5 way super switch which was a bit interesting. I'm not sure i have it 100% wired correctly yet, although it sounds great and does coils splits on the 2 and 4 positions. Overall great axe out of the box. 

All the annoying nuances make me realize why I got into customs again.


----------



## Lemonbaby

KR250 said:


> String day! Somewhere around 20 sets of custom tension matched sets for various tuning's and scale lengths. Went through Just strings this time, super fast shipping!


Respect man - a lot of casual dating going on there...


----------



## KnightBrolaire

note to self: shellac does not like enamel paint.


----------



## Soya

It's also not great on Reubens.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> note to self: shellac does not like enamel paint.


how so?


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> how so?


I was working on a body i painted and i brushed the shellac on, which made the paint flake off and blister. I guess it's a good thing i put down multiple coats of paint.


----------



## Omzig

Just been prepping a single piece top from a mad slab of beech i picked up about a year ago this is about 16" across 1 1/4 thick it has a bit of everything going on in it! kinda reminds me of those nasa pics of Jupiter

Im hoping to bookmatch the rest of the board when i get around to swap out my bandsaw's blade to a 3tpi ripper.


----------



## jwade

That would look amazing as an SG.


----------



## MoonJelly

Those are some hot beeches. 


In recent news, I finally got a new space for a shop. Pics coming soon, I'm currently building it out!


----------



## BlackMastodon

Soya said:


> It's also not great on Reubens.


Also doesn't get along with alcohol based dyes.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Haven't been happy with my finishing results, and while this probably has more to do with my wet sanding technique and my choice of finish, I decided to build myself a 14 inch stew Mac style buffer


----------



## KR250

Oh nice! I'm thinking about the same thing. Only finish I've been happy with so far is satin poly, but want to do the Solarez UV gloss next.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

BlackMastodon said:


> Also doesn't get along with alcohol based dyes.


yep. I forgot about that and went to brush some shellac onto my strandberg. it fucked up the fade/pulled most of the color and I had to redo it. I guess I'm using something else as a sealer.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Big wooden sheaves


----------



## skeels

Omzig said:


> Just been prepping a single piece top from a mad slab of beech i picked up about a year ago this is about 16" across 1 1/4 thick it has a bit of everything going on in it! kinda reminds me of those nasa pics of Jupiter
> 
> Im hoping to bookmatch the rest of the board when i get around to swap out my bandsaw's blade to a 3tpi ripper.


OH MY GOD! 

I mean.. skeels likes this....


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Aaaand we're done 




Sewed the buff out of some pink Flannel I got on sale. Not terrible for a first pass but I'll have to experiment more with these.




Alright I'm done spamming the thread now.


----------



## MoonJelly

Next thing on the workbench is me


----------



## KnightBrolaire

MoonJelly said:


> Next thing on the workbench is me


that tickles


----------



## Spicypickles

MoonJelly said:


> Next thing on the workbench is me



I had an accident a few years ago snowboarding and my X-ray looked almost exactly the same. 

Are they going to do surgery to straighten it out, or will it do more harm than good? Mine happened on the mountain, so by the time I managed to leave and make it to a decent hospital it had already started to heal and the doctors told me they would have to re-break it to make it completely straight again, and it just wasn’t worth it.


----------



## Omzig

MoonJelly said:


> Next thing on the workbench is me



Ouch GWS !


----------



## MoonJelly

It happened Wednesday night, so it's still within time to do surgery and correct the anatomy. I go under the knife tomorrow morning and they'll put a plate in it at that time. I expect to recover enough to do mundane tasks in about a week.


----------



## electriceye

What did you do?? Tell us you got whacked with a neck blank from an angry lady who discovered your secret wood pr0n.


----------



## Soya

First build is starting to look suspiciously like a guitar. Though I think I've given myself tennis elbow in both arms now just from sanding. I should probably use templates next time.


----------



## ElRay

LiveOVErdrive said:


> how so?


The solvent in shellac is alcohol. Anything that will be dissolved by alcohol will be affected to a degree. Sometimes that’s good (one finish/coat will dissolve into the other). Sometimes it’s not (blistering not fully cure enamels (and some even if fully cured), dissolving stains (and some dyes), etc).


----------



## ElRay

double post while on mobile


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Did a grain matching cover plate for the current build. It's wood... like plant material... and grains and stuff. That's what they tell me...


----------



## MoonJelly

electriceye said:


> What did you do?? Tell us you got whacked with a neck blank from an angry lady who discovered your secret wood pr0n.



I was playing football, something I never do. Never again.

At the end of the day I had a steel plate and ten screws put in. So I can scratch being a cyborg off my bucket list.


----------



## Grand Rabbit

MoonJelly said:


> I was playing football, something I never do. Never again.
> 
> At the end of the day I had a steel plate and ten screws put in. So I can scratch being a cyborg off my bucket list.



oh man that's a bummer >< Hopefully you'll be back at it with your new shop soon!


----------



## MoonJelly

23 Staples and 10 screws later. Surgery was Monday, and today was my first day off the Percocet.






Awesome additions to my stash came in the mail. Clockwise from 12 are Tzalam, Chechen, Bubinga, Goncalo Alves, and some plain maple.


----------



## pondman

^ Ouch ! ^


----------



## Spicypickles

Ouch indeed, it's crazy it took all that to fix it. Makes sense that my shoulder hurts all the time though, having no fix.


----------



## MoonJelly

Pretty much an overhaul, yes. The doctor called it a "butterfly" fracture, where there were pieces splayed out in multiple directions, hence the advice to repair with surgery.

Anyway, I'm off the bench and feeling better, but I've been told to avoid using power tools for the next month. I'll be returning to my desk job Monday, so that's something.


----------



## ElRay

MoonJelly said:


> 23 Staples and 10 screws later. Surgery was Monday, and today was my first day off the Percocet.



Hey, is that a ring or watch I see behind your scapula?


----------



## MoonJelly

I don't see it. There was only a wall behind me when they took the X-ray


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

So after building a big buffer and practicing wetsanding, I decided to revisit the varathane water based floor polyurethane that is supposed to work so well. I recently read some articles about it and decided to try some of the can I have sitting around on on a test piece of flame maple. 

This time, results were GREAT! 




My wet sanding left some orange peel around, so it still needs some work, but this stuff actually holds a gloss. And doesn't seem to care that I sanded through multiple layers. 

I sprayed 10-12 coats, sanding between every few. This took about two days. Then I let it cure about two days. Then tonight I wet sanded it and buffed it, and voila!

Definitely going to have to revisit this stuff on my next build.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> So after building a big buffer and practicing wetsanding, I decided to revisit the varathane water based floor polyurethane that is supposed to work so well. I recently read some articles about it and decided to try some of the can I have sitting around on on a test piece of flame maple.
> 
> This time, results were GREAT!
> 
> View attachment 60132
> 
> 
> My wet sanding left some orange peel around, so it still needs some work, but this stuff actually holds a gloss. And doesn't seem to care that I sanded through multiple layers.
> 
> I sprayed 10-12 coats, sanding between every few. This took about two days. Then I let it cure about two days. Then tonight I wet sanded it and buffed it, and voila!
> 
> Definitely going to have to revisit this stuff on my next build.


how's the durability on that stuff?


----------



## failsafe

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Did a grain matching cover plate for the current build. It's wood... like plant material... and grains and stuff. That's what they tell me...


Nice! How did you get it so....perfect?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> how's the durability on that stuff?


I assume its pretty good since it is poly AND it is made to be walked on, but I haven't really done more than test pieces with it yet.

I can tell you that after two days I can still dent it with a fingernail, but that would be true for just about anything but epoxy and shellac, so I guess time will tell.


----------



## electriceye

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Did a grain matching cover plate for the current build. It's wood... like plant material... and grains and stuff. That's what they tell me...



OK, how the hell did you do that???


----------



## HaMMerHeD

I'm gonna guess he took a slice off before thicknessing the original body billet.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

HaMMerHeD said:


> I'm gonna guess he took a slice off before thicknessing the original body billet.


that... and pattern bits are your friend.


Also, when I'm doing a build for someone else, I scrutinize the crap out of every detail and do it as well as I can. Honestly I look at that cover plate and think "meh... it's not 100% but I'll settle with 95% all things considered..." I see the smallest flaws and it nags me to no end.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I assume its pretty good since it is poly AND it is made to be walked on, but I haven't really done more than test pieces with it yet.
> 
> I can tell you that after two days I can still dent it with a fingernail, but that would be true for just about anything but epoxy and shellac, so I guess time will tell.


Update: hours after buffing it shrunk back into the grain a lot. Stuff probably needs at least a week to cure. 

I'll work with it more but man I should just give up and use nitro like everyone else.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Tried acrylic flow painting. Think I'm feeling a UV build in the future...


----------



## electriceye

HaMMerHeD said:


> I'm gonna guess he took a slice off before thicknessing the original body billet.



Ah haaaaa..... new technique noted!


----------



## Walshy

HaMMerHeD said:


> I'm gonna guess he took a slice off before thicknessing the original body billet.



Yep, that's the only way to do it. You really have to plan ahead with that one!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

More acrylic


----------



## The Spanish Inquisition

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Tried acrylic flow painting. Think I'm feeling a UV build in the future...
> 
> View attachment 60395


That looks fucking rad! I might try this in red white and black some time.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Tried acrylic flow painting. Think I'm feeling a UV build in the future...
> 
> View attachment 60395


With the right colors you could make this to look like the surface of Jupiter...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I want to get that second one perfected and do a black hardware 90s color vomit shredder.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I made a video demo of brushing epoxy onto dyed figured maple. Experimenting for future builds.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

My two most recent builds. The one on the right just got strung up for the first time today, I'll be putting together the electronics soon and it'll be finished. So far it plays great though, neck feels good, no buzz, action is fast and smooth. Very happy with it so far, It's my best build to date, 5th fully scratch built guitar that I've done all the way to the finish.








Below that is the next two up to bat. An 8 string version of my Pigeon Destroyer shape and a Rhoads inspired pointy thing.


----------



## MoonJelly

Pigeon Destroyer


----------



## mister V

I did not post anything for a very long time, but finally I have something to show you. This project is almost done (stain and oil are the things that are left to do), so there will be a thread about it later.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

mister V said:


> I did not post anything for a very long time, but finally I have something to show you. This project is almost done (stain and oil are the things that are left to do), so there will be a thread about it later.
> 
> View attachment 61033
> 
> 
> View attachment 61034


Well. That neck joint looks stable.


----------



## mister V

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Well. That neck joint looks stable.


Yeah... I did the best I could 
Later you will see why there is a need for such neck joint elongation.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

mister V said:


> Yeah... I did the best I could
> Later you will see why there is a need for such neck joint elongation.


Color me intrigued.


----------



## Bobro

Wow, everyone here takes such good photographs! I'd like to take a photo of what's on my workbench this weekend, but my cheapo phone camera and my general suckage at taking photos would make the photo an insult to everyone except for guys who are into paranormal stuff.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Bobro said:


> Wow, everyone here takes such good photographs! I'd like to take a photo of what's on my workbench this weekend, but my cheapo phone camera and my general suckage at taking photos would make the photo an insult to everyone except for guys who are into paranormal stuff.


The main purpose of this thread is just sharing what you're up to. See something new, learn something new, get advice and so on...

In short: give us that paranormal stuff!


----------



## Omzig

Playing with some UV pigment/CA/Ink pen tubes to create some 3-2 mm side dots (i did a few more with different tubes after i took these pics)






Still need to scrape back and polish the CA to see how they go but atm this will be far far far cheaper that buying LI's


----------



## Omzig

LiveOVErdrive said:


> More acrylic
> 
> View attachment 60419



Man those acrylic pore effects are sick,last time i check out the YT videos for those effects i lost like 3 hours of my life lol,Would be great to see some of those on an 80's style super strat


----------



## MikeNeal

getting my basement workshop set up. heres what i got so far






i'm really going to try and limit the dust so i got a dustboot for the cnc machine






not pictured is a 1200 cfm dust collector. should hopefully help in dust production


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I 


Omzig said:


> Man those acrylic pore effects are sick,last time i check out the YT videos for those effects i lost like 3 hours of my life lol,Would be great to see some of those on an 80's style super strat


I agree! They're actually surprisingly easy to do. And I was just using cheap latex enamel from menards/home depot + floetrol. Cheap and easy.

One big problem is that so far they come out pretty thick, which means soft. Gonna have to see if an epoxy clear coat is enough to protect it, but I kind of doubt it. Hard over soft isn't a great idea I understand. 

Maybe if I pour multicolored epoxy...


----------



## saved

The last 2 years..
A prototype bass (do you remember my goat friend helping me,right?)
I hope it will be ready before the 7/2018


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

saved said:


> The last 2 years..
> A prototype bass (do you remember my goat friend helping me,right?)
> I hope it will be ready before the 7/2018
> View attachment 61291


Cool body shape. 

Gonna need more goat pictures though


----------



## KnightBrolaire

this is the best looking limba I've gotten my hands on so far.
prob gonna save it for a fancy build.


----------



## saved

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Cool body shape.
> 
> Gonna need more goat pictures though



Here you GOAT it..you asked for it..


----------



## Soya

KnightBrolaire said:


> this is the best looking limba I've gotten my hands on so far.
> prob gonna save it for a fancy build.



Where do you (and other people) find stuff like that? I scoured everywhere I could think for a decent limba body and found nothing. Not even good mahogany or Swamp ash.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Soya said:


> Where do you (and other people) find stuff like that? I scoured everywhere I could think for a decent limba body and found nothing. Not even good mahogany or Swamp ash.


I got that set of boards from larose guitars on instagram. he has excellent wood choices with great figuring. Doesn't hurt that he has relatively reasonable prices (especially compared to secretstashhardwoods). finding really figured limba is pretty hard honestly. I've had a lot better luck finding figured sapele or mahogany so far.


----------



## Soya

Built a new cab for my Mesa, oversized 2x12 based on the port city wave design but in pine instead of plywood. Little rough around the edges but it'll do the trick.


----------



## electriceye

Soya said:


> Where do you (and other people) find stuff like that? I scoured everywhere I could think for a decent limba body and found nothing. Not even good mahogany or Swamp ash.



Try Cook Woods or Gilmer.

EDIT: I found that guy on Twitter that was mentioned above....holy sh*t I wish youdidn't give us his name. Now I have more wood pr0n to keep from spending my money!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> Built a new cab for my Mesa, oversized 2x12 based on the port city wave design but in pine instead of plywood. Little rough around the edges but it'll do the trick.
> View attachment 61582
> View attachment 61583
> View attachment 61584


Holy God damn that's beautiful.


----------



## ElRay

saved said:


> ...
> A prototype bass ...
> View attachment 61291


Did you taper the neck plys? I’ve been tempted to try that.


----------



## saved

ElRay said:


> Did you taper the neck plys? I’ve been tempted to try that.



No.I find taper laminates to difficult for me to dial with them.It looks like taper because of the torzal neck twist


----------



## ElRay

saved said:


> ... torzal neck twist ...


----------



## lewis

Soya said:


> Built a new cab for my Mesa, oversized 2x12 based on the port city wave design but in pine instead of plywood. Little rough around the edges but it'll do the trick.
> View attachment 61582
> View attachment 61583
> View attachment 61584



its....its beautiful!!!!

so sick man. Great build.


----------



## Soya

Thanks for the kind words. Also just finished my first build, finally. Lots of mistakes were made (so don't zoom in) but surprisingly I ended up with a reasonably playable instrument. Hopefully I can learn from the errors since I'm already collecting wood for the next build


----------



## NateFalcon

saved said:


> No.I find taper laminates to difficult for me to dial with them.It looks like taper because of the torzal neck twist
> View attachment 61628


What degree of twist are you going with?...my buddy built a torzal bass that plays AMAZING...I’ve also been pondering a torzal 7 string guitar build


----------



## saved

I dont remember because i started this 2 years ago.I think 22° at the nut 17° at the bridge.
If i started this now,i would go 40 nut 30 bridge


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

saved said:


> I dont remember because i started this 2 years ago.I think 22° at the nut 17° at the bridge.
> If i started this now,i would go 40 nut 30 bridge


This is super cool. How do you place the truss rod(s) work on a neck like that?


----------



## Walshy

Soya, that's a cracking effort with the Standberg copy. Well done.


----------



## saved

The truss rod is instaled eith the common way.
Because its my first torzal build i dont know if it will work as it should or not


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

saved said:


> The truss rod is instaled eith the common way.
> Because its my first torzal build i dont know if it will work as it should or not


I guess the strings are still pulling the same direction.


----------



## electriceye

So, my wallet would like to "thank" KnightBolaire for turning me on to Larose Guitars (*whispers* I hate you). I actually spoke to Todd last week about some oversized black limba bodies. *Such* a nice guy. His prices are insane. Anyway, long story short, this blank is on its way to me this week to (some day) be turned into something similar to the second pic (credit: Marison Huertas). It will be a V with natural limba back and multi-layer-bound, figured top and black limba neck. I think it will probably be the last V I build unless I get to the point I can actually start selling guitars. It will be my fourth. I have no room for them.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

electriceye said:


> So, my wallet would like to "thank" KnightBolaire for turning me on to Larose Guitars (*whispers* I hate you). I actually spoke to Todd last week about some oversized black limba bodies. *Such* a nice guy. His prices are insane. Anyway, long story short, this blank is on its way to me this week to (some day) be turned into something similar to the second pic (credit: Marison Huertas). It will be a V with natural limba back and multi-layer-bound, figured top and black limba neck. I think it will probably be the last V I build unless I get to the point I can actually start selling guitars. It will be my fourth. I have no room for them.
> 
> View attachment 61984
> 
> View attachment 61985


oh, yeah definitely don't look at kimballhardwood's stuff on Instagram/ebay then. He's got ridiculous stuff like LaRose.


----------



## jwade

KnightBrolaire said:


> this is the best looking limba I've gotten my hands on so far.
> prob gonna save it for a fancy build.


Oh dang. Please don’t use that for a V. Use way more of that real estate!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

jwade said:


> Oh dang. Please don’t use that for a V. Use way more of that real estate!


I'm not using it for a V, that's the template that LaRose drew on it. It's big enough for an explorer though


----------



## jwade

Exactly my thought. Stoked for it (eventually)!


----------



## electriceye

KnightBrolaire said:


> oh, yeah definitely don't look at kimballhardwood's stuff on Instagram/ebay then. He's got ridiculous stuff like LaRose.



STOP IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## ElRay

electriceye said:


> STOP IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


I can help. I’ll open a GoFundMe page where people can donate a fraction of what they’d spend on veneers, top-plates and body woods, pool our resources, and I’ll get those evil temptations off the market.


----------



## KR250

Finished a cover plate for the bass project and started applying finish. Still a bit more work to do. Bottom pic is with just a few coats of shellac as sealer.


----------



## Soya

New build getting roughed in. Black walnut body, bubinga neck, macassar ferret. Been wanting to work on it more but been so hot here lately its pretty unbearable in my garage.


----------



## Soya

This is me when i'm carving a neck profile.


----------



## ChAoZ

Soya said:


> New build getting roughed in. Black walnut body, bubinga neck, macassar ferret. Been wanting to work on it more but been so hot here lately its pretty unbearable in my garage.


 This might help,


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Finally made some time to work on stuff.
cutting board made of flamed maple, black walnut and red oak
shot is after I coated in odie's oil








clear coat goes on tomorrow


----------



## jwade

I dunno where to have pictures hosted anymore, but I’ve started work on a guitar for my little brother. I found a nice piece of Honduran mahogany, so I did up a lefty SG body. It’s routed to shape, and I’ll be cutting the scarf angles later today. 

The neck & headstock will be black limba with an accent strip in the scarf. You guys have made me love that look so much, particularly Pondmans many many amazing builds, so I decided to do something interesting with this. I’m thinking either ziricote or a multipiece wenge & EIR thing. 

Fb is EIR and it is gorgeous. If you guys can point me at the right picture hosting platform, I’ll get a picture up. 

Otherwise, the guitar will be pretty much what you expect, blood red lefty Sg, black pickguard, fb will have binding (curly maple or something instead of abs), and Gibson pickups. Headstock will be my own ‘design’ that looks a bit like a reverse Hagstrom hs.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

jwade said:


> I dunno where to have pictures hosted anymore, but I’ve started work on a guitar for my little brother. I found a nice piece of Honduran mahogany, so I did up a lefty SG body. It’s routed to shape, and I’ll be cutting the scarf angles later today.
> 
> The neck & headstock will be black limba with an accent strip in the scarf. You guys have made me love that look so much, particularly Pondmans many many amazing builds, so I decided to do something interesting with this. I’m thinking either ziricote or a multipiece wenge & EIR thing.
> 
> Fb is EIR and it is gorgeous. If you guys can point me at the right picture hosting platform, I’ll get a picture up.
> 
> Otherwise, the guitar will be pretty much what you expect, blood red lefty Sg, black pickguard, fb will have binding (curly maple or something instead of abs), and Gibson pickups. Headstock will be my own ‘design’ that looks a bit like a reverse Hagstrom hs.


tinypic. flickr, postimg.org are all solid options ime


----------



## jwade

Ah I didn’t know they’d changed to postimages.org. Excellent!


----------



## Soya

jwade said:


> I dunno where to have pictures hosted anymore, but I’ve started work on a guitar for my little brother. I found a nice piece of Honduran mahogany, so I did up a lefty SG body. It’s routed to shape, and I’ll be cutting the scarf angles later today.
> 
> The neck & headstock will be black limba with an accent strip in the scarf. You guys have made me love that look so much, particularly Pondmans many many amazing builds, so I decided to do something interesting with this. I’m thinking either ziricote or a multipiece wenge & EIR thing.
> 
> Fb is EIR and it is gorgeous. If you guys can point me at the right picture hosting platform, I’ll get a picture up.
> 
> Otherwise, the guitar will be pretty much what you expect, blood red lefty Sg, black pickguard, fb will have binding (curly maple or something instead of abs), and Gibson pickups. Headstock will be my own ‘design’ that looks a bit like a reverse Hagstrom hs.



If you achieve a contributor status, you can upload the pics directly to SSO


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Soya said:


> If you achieve a contributor status, you can upload the pics directly to SSO


you can do that without being a contributor.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> If you achieve a contributor status, you can upload the pics directly to SSO


That emoji is gonna haunt my nightmares.


----------



## Bobro

Soya said:


> New build getting roughed in. Black walnut body, bubinga neck, macassar ferret. Been wanting to work on it more but been so hot here lately its pretty unbearable in my garage.
> 
> View attachment 62098


 Beauty!


----------



## Bobro

jwade said:


> Ah I didn’t know they’d changed to postimages.org. Excellent!


Gorgeous! Is that a Madagascar Rosewood fretboard? looks delicious.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Bobro said:


> Gorgeous! Is that a Madagascar Rosewood fretboard? looks delicious.


he said it was indian rosewood in a previous post, plus madagascar rosewood is super endangered, i hope no one's using that on guitars (same with bois de rose)


----------



## jwade

Correct. It’s East Indian rosewood (graded at an A, apparently).


----------



## Soya

KnightBrolaire said:


> you can do that without being a contributor.


Was just trying to throw SSO some more funding


----------



## KnightBrolaire

grabbed some brite tone poly from crystallac. I want to try something that's not quite as terrible for me as 2k.


----------



## KR250

KnightBrolaire said:


> grabbed some brite tone poly from crystallac. I want to try something that's not quite as terrible for me as 2k.



Let me know how you like it, this was next on my list after watching a Youtube video on the stuff. I've tried the General Finishes water poly, didn't feel it dried all that hard though.


----------



## electriceye

KnightBrolaire said:


> I'm not using it for a V, that's the template that LaRose drew on it. It's big enough for an explorer though



What's your experiment with Todd shipping? I STILL haven't rec'd my blank and I've asked him twice for a tracking # and have gotten nothing. Meanwhile, he's posting new stuff every day for sale.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

electriceye said:


> What's your experiment with Todd shipping? I STILL haven't rec'd my blank and I've asked him twice for a tracking # and have gotten nothing. Meanwhile, he's posting new stuff every day for sale.


he's usually pretty good about shipping within a few days or so of orders. same with sending tracking #s. I've bought a pile of tops/bodies from him.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

KR250 said:


> Let me know how you like it, this was next on my list after watching a Youtube video on the stuff. I've tried the General Finishes water poly, didn't feel it dried all that hard though.


I saw it recommended by highline guitars and by some other builders in a guitar finish/paint group on facebook. Figured it'd be worth a shot since it ends up costing me the same as 2 cans of 2k.


----------



## KR250

I think I saw the same video. I just bought the full Crystalac system to try out on the next two builds. Will do some test pieces once it arrives and see how it looks.


----------



## Bobro

KnightBrolaire said:


> he said it was indian rosewood in a previous post, plus madagascar rosewood is super endangered, i hope no one's using that on guitars (same with bois de rose)


I have a neck blank (through neck, headstock finger-jointed on) of deep dark purple Madagascar rosewood I bought legally before 1991, but it's still on the other side of the world. The tap tone is amazing and it looks a lot like that fingerboard that is pictured.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> grabbed some brite tone poly from crystallac. I want to try something that's not quite as terrible for me as 2k.



I'm also curious how well this works. Everything I've tried so far is too soft.


----------



## Soya

Have you tried the spray max 2k? Turned out great on a Schecter of mine, dried fast and is super hard.


----------



## KR250

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Everything I've tried so far is too soft.



Same here, I tried the General finishes water based and haven't been super thrilled yet. Don't want to use nitro again, or deal with 2K. Minwax spray on poly has been somewhat decent but haven't been able to do a decent gloss yet. I've had the best results when using a thin layer of epoxy beneath the final finish to add strength and for pore filling.

Side note, a few pics of current builds in progress. First is an Evertune 8 string neck through with wenge/purpleheart, ash wings, and buckeye burl top. Second is an Evertune 7 string mahogany and amboyna burl top.


----------



## Soya

Tried my best to do an invisible cavity cover by hand. I really need to make router templates instead. And buy a bandsaw.


----------



## jwade

That looks fucking rad though dude!


----------



## MoonJelly

Yeah I would say if it's not invisible, it's still pretty close


----------



## Bobro

Soya said:


> Tried my best to do an invisible cavity cover by hand. I really need to make router templates instead. And buy a bandsaw.
> View attachment 62512


Fantastic! That's about as close to "invisible" as it gets, too awesome!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

KnightBrolaire said:


> grabbed some brite tone poly from crystallac. I want to try something that's not quite as terrible for me as 2k.








Tested the crystalac brite tone vs minwax fast drying poly and polycrylic after 24 hrs of curing.
Brite tone and polycrylic both went on clear, fast drying poly seemed to darken the wood. 
In terms of scratch resistance, brite tone is more protective than the others for minor scratches and slightly deeper ones as well. I scratched the wood at 12hrs and at 24 hrs, with the brite tone taking the least visible damage to the clear coat.
Brite Tone seems to sit on top of the wood better, instead of sinking into the grain. 
All of them can achieve gloss finishes.
Pricepoint, a pint of brite tone is like 40$, which seems steep, but I think with judicious use you could get a light coating on a few bodies. Polycrylic is around 7$ a can iirc. Fast drying poly is around 8$ for a pint.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> Tested the crystalac brite tone vs minwax fast drying poly and polycrylic after 24 hrs of curing.
> Brite tone and polycrylic both went on clear, fast drying poly seemed to darken the wood.
> In terms of scratch resistance, brite tone is more protective than the others for minor scratches and slightly deeper ones as well. I scratched the wood at 12hrs and at 24 hrs, with the brite tone taking the least visible damage to the clear coat.
> Brite Tone seems to sit on top of the wood better, instead of sinking into the grain.
> All of them can achieve gloss finishes.
> Pricepoint, a pint of brite tone is like 40$, which seems steep, but I think with judicious use you could get a light coating on a few bodies. Polycrylic is around 7$ a can iirc. Fast drying poly is around 8$ for a pint.


I'm gonna have to try that stuff, though I'm actually getting decent results with varathane regular (not floor) water based poly. Gotta test on some harder wood though. Too easy to dent aspen.


----------



## Soya

Turned down a cut off bubinga piece from the neck blank, maybe for control knobs or something.


----------



## J_Mac

Necks!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Holy wood porn batman


----------



## J_Mac

Double post, browser went screwy sorry.


----------



## KR250

Third from the right, is that black limba and wenge? Tasty! I might have to try my own luminlay now as well, sounds a lot cheaper. Does it illuminate just the same as the actual Luminlay?


----------



## Klzow

Started on a build I've been wanting to do for a long time. Headless, Black limba and Buckeye burl!




Always liked the black limba endgrain


----------



## J_Mac

KR250 said:


> Third from the right, is that black limba and wenge? Tasty! I might have to try my own luminlay now as well, sounds a lot cheaper. Does it illuminate just the same as the actual Luminlay?


Certainly does. Luminlay is a rip off!

Yeah, limba and wenge fillets. Really special pieces from Neil at Feel Good Wood  his cuts are just superb. Never any warping, laser straight. He works on a wood conservation project in Tanzania, but has an eBay shop also.


----------



## MoonJelly

Not my usual workbench, but at my day job this came through our warehouse. Someone had been missing it since April, so it was nice to give them the good news!


----------



## KR250

Scored these two tops, just arrived yesterday. Jarrah and camphor burl. Will be a little ways down (have a stash of 8 cool tops now), but debating wood choices to compliment them. I'm about to use amboyna burl which is similar to the top one with a mahogany body, ebony fretboard, and wenge neck. The busy looking tops seem to pair well with simpler fret boards. Open to any suggestions.


----------



## electriceye

J_Mac said:


> Necks!



Those are so nice!! What are they all? (I can pick out certain pieces, but still curious)


----------



## electriceye

Random wood pr0n and some projects in progress. I'm on a Flying V kick, although I just got an Explorer and SG template sets.


----------



## Soya

Second build is all finished up, Skervesen swan type thing. Woodworking went pretty well, not too happy with polishing the Tru-oil so at some point I may strip it back and do some clear poly instead. Plays decent though.


----------



## Bobro

Soya said:


> Second build is all finished up, Skervesen swan type thing. Woodworking went pretty well, not too happy with polishing the Tru-oil so at some point I may strip it back and do some clear poly instead. Plays decent though.
> View attachment 63134
> View attachment 63135
> View attachment 63136


Those are beautiful!


----------



## MoonJelly

Soya said:


> Second build is all finished up, Skervesen swan type thing. Woodworking went pretty well, not too happy with polishing the Tru-oil so at some point I may strip it back and do some clear poly instead. Plays decent though.
> View attachment 63134
> View attachment 63135
> View attachment 63136


You may not need to strip the tru-oil back if it's fully cured. If it's just the extra level of gloss you're after, spray or wipe on poly shouldn't interact badly with it, rather the tru-oil acts like a grain filler/leveller; I recommend a little 600-grit wet or dry sandpaper to prep the surface and then add your poly of choice.


----------



## Soya

Groovy, I may have to try that.


----------



## Omzig

Soya said:


> Second build is all finished up, Skervesen swan type thing. Woodworking went pretty well, not too happy with polishing the Tru-oil so at some point I may strip it back and do some clear poly instead. Plays decent though.



Dam nice work,and yep i agree tru oil is a PITA to bring upto high gloss and a pain to keep that way,an old guy woodworker i once knew always quoted this when i talked about oil finishes with him "once a day for a week,once a week for a month,once a month for a year" lol
i gotta say though if you can get hold of some of the osmo polyx oils they cure very quickly and gloss up with just 3-4 coats.

So i refinished and old Carvel spectrum last year but never got around to UV/Peroxide removing the yellowing from the plate,so as we've had some rare sun shine in the UK for the past few weeks or so i thought id get it done before it starts to rain again 

As it was,not that yellow'ed (look at the base of the neck pocket for the difference) but enough to piss me off 






Cheap 14% Peroxide hair cream (had bottle of this shit on my hair in the late 80's but that's another tread altogether  )






And after pasting in on and wrapping in cling film (saran wrap) and 2 hours or so in the sun 






It's about 95% back to full white now id say,i think i'll load the rest of the bottle on tomorrow and stick it out for a full day in the sun.


----------



## IGC

Some eclipse type bodies, no my glue joints aren't that bad, it's just glue squeeze out that I need to sand and flatten N stuff.
Routed the P.H. outer, rough sawed the outer on the padauk. Purple dye tests on the P.H. one, getting a little browning going on in areas so I'm thinking about just dying it purple so it never browns out. Kind of weird, but it seems like there was more brownness right after I routed it, and after a month of sitting in my cool, dry basement, the brown actually faded more to purple... It also seemed that where my router bearing sat and rubbed, it actually drew out a concentration of the purple coloring from the wood. So I'm thinking about trying some sort of hot burnishing for drawing out that purple.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

got some more big ass pieces of black limba from larose. i'm basically hoarding limba at this point.




finally made the new cavity plate for my strandberg. I hate that the fade isn't as good as I can make it, but the veneer is pretty thin, so I didn't want to risk sanding it too much.


----------



## KR250

Great piece of Limba there, I literally can't find anything exciting for sale anymore.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

KR250 said:


> Great piece of Limba there, I literally can't find anything exciting for sale anymore.


yeah that piece is really figured on top but the backside is very bland.


----------



## electriceye

KnightBrolaire said:


> got some more big ass pieces of black limba from larose. i'm basically hoarding limba at this point.
> 
> finally made the new cavity plate for my strandberg. I hate that the fade isn't as good as I can make it, but the veneer is pretty thin, so I didn't want to risk sanding it too much.



HAHA! I'm in competition with you. I have a body and neck on the way. 

EDIT: In fact, someone just handed me a delivery....


----------



## Omzig

Dam wish i could find some nice Black limba over here in the UK at a honest price,Last (quite plain) blank i saw pop up on ebay was £100/$130,ive seen some Eu sellers with boards that could be OK but they want stupid shipping costs £30+ mad.....

looks like i'll have to use the black limba a tops i do have with some white limba (idigbo)


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Omzig said:


> Dam wish i could find some nice Black limba over here in the UK at a honest price,Last (quite plain) blank i saw pop up on ebay was £100/$130,ive seen some Eu sellers with boards that could be OK but they want stupid shipping costs £30+ mad.....
> 
> looks like i'll have to use the black limba a tops i do have with some white limba (idigbo)


what are the boards to the right of the limba? is that zebrano?


----------



## Omzig

KnightBrolaire said:


> what are the boards to the right of the limba? is that zebrano?


 tis zerbrona yes 

left-right flame maple,black cherry,Black limba,Zebrona,Black Limba.

I picked these up from a EU ebay/web seller edelholzhandel2012 when they had a massive sale i think i paid about £20 a top + 1 off shipping fee

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/edelholzhandel2012


----------



## MikeNeal

i have lots of limba. its pretty cheap up here in canada (approx 7-8 bucks a bd-ft)


----------



## J_Mac

Omzig said:


> Dam wish i could find some nice Black limba over here in the UK at a honest price,Last (quite plain) blank i saw pop up on ebay was £100/$130,ive seen some Eu sellers with boards that could be OK but they want stupid shipping costs £30+ mad.....
> 
> looks like i'll have to use the black limba a tops i do have with some white limba (idigbo)


Dude, FeelGoodWood on eBay. UK seller and my top choice for woods. Bloke is called Neil and his cuts are absolutely bang on. I recently got a single piece limba body for £60.


----------



## J_Mac

electriceye said:


> Those are so nice!! What are they all? (I can pick out certain pieces, but still curious)



From left to right:
- bubinga/wenge/maple/wenge/bubinga
- Birdseye maple and wenge
- Black limba and wenge
- wenge and maple
- bubinga/wenge/maple/wenge/bubinga

Here’s some high def snaps of some of the finished pieces:
















Ok I see now I have a wenge problem...


----------



## J_Mac

Soya said:


> Second build is all finished up, Skervesen swan type thing. Woodworking went pretty well, not too happy with polishing the Tru-oil so at some point I may strip it back and do some clear poly instead. Plays decent though.
> View attachment 63134
> View attachment 63135
> View attachment 63136


That, sir, is total nails \m/


----------



## Soya

J_Mac said:


> From left to right:
> - bubinga/wenge/maple/wenge/bubinga
> - Birdseye maple and wenge
> - Black limba and wenge
> - wenge and maple
> - bubinga/wenge/maple/wenge/bubinga
> 
> Here’s some high def snaps of some of the finished pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I see now I have a wenge problem...


Dude that limba/Wenge neck is the absolute business.


----------



## ChAoZ

J_Mac said:


> Ok I see now I have a wenge problem...



Not having Wenge would be the only problem


----------



## J_Mac

ChAoZ said:


> Not having Wenge would be the only problem


----------



## J_Mac

Soya said:


> Dude that limba/Wenge neck is the absolute business.


Cheers bro  I will start threads with these builds soon...


----------



## Soya

I'm jealous of all the tasty laminate necks, I don't have a table saw, band saw, or a thickness planer so single piece necks for a while yet.


----------



## Omzig

J_Mac said:


> Dude, FeelGoodWood on eBay. UK seller and my top choice for woods. Bloke is called Neil and his cuts are absolutely bang on. I recently got a single piece limba body for £60.



That's not bad for a prepare PAR blank of lblack imba thx for the heads up i'll give him a look up.

Im waitting to hear back from a german seller who has some BL slabs which would be enough to yield me x3 2 piece body blanks @ 47mm thick,should be about £70 inc shipping And yep as soya says very tasty neck blanks


----------



## J_Mac

Soya said:


> I'm jealous of all the tasty laminate necks, I don't have a table saw, band saw, or a thickness planer so single piece necks for a while yet.


Hard to believe after seeing that amazing build dude! My bandsaw and table saw were both £100 new, nothing fancy, bottom of the line. 

Oh, fresh wenge slab just arrived \m/






125cm x 20cm x 5cm for £70 from Feullius Fencing (UK eBay).


----------



## J_Mac

Omzig said:


> That's not bad for a prepare PAR blank of lblack imba thx for the heads up i'll give him a look up.
> 
> Im waitting to hear back from a german seller who has some BL slabs which would be enough to yield me x3 2 piece body blanks @ 47mm thick,should be about £70 inc shipping And yep as soya says very tasty neck blanks


£70 for that much BL from Germany? Steal!


----------



## IGC

J_Mac said:


> From left to right:
> - bubinga/wenge/maple/wenge/bubinga
> - Birdseye maple and wenge
> - Black limba and wenge
> - wenge and maple
> - bubinga/wenge/maple/wenge/bubinga
> 
> Here’s some high def snaps of some of the finished pieces:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok I see now I have a wenge problem...




Jealous!


----------



## KR250

Winning-est selfie! Beautiful laminates. Inspiration to up my neck game. Here is where my current project is at. Still a lot left to do, but working revisions from my previous body prototype for this one. Deeper cutaway in the lower horn, but still a lot more to do on the heel. I saved a piece I shaved off the wings for the cover plate for grain matching it. 






Some Buckeye Burl


----------



## Omzig

J_Mac said:


> Hard to believe after seeing that amazing build dude! My bandsaw and table saw were both £100 new, nothing fancy, bottom of the line.
> 
> Oh, fresh wenge slab just arrived \m/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 125cm x 20cm x 5cm for £70 from Feullius Fencing (UK eBay).



A tablesaw @ £100 that cuts hardwood that thick! Spill the details please !


----------



## J_Mac

Omzig said:


> A tablesaw @ £100 that cuts hardwood that thick! Spill the details please !


https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tt...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLCa6P3D59wCFcaLUQodOCkPHw

Superb saw for the cash


----------



## IGC

KR250 said:


> Winning-est selfie! Beautiful laminates. Inspiration to up my neck game. Here is where my current project is at. Still a lot left to do, but working revisions from my previous body prototype for this one. Deeper cutaway in the lower horn, but still a lot more to do on the heel. I saved a piece I shaved off the wings for the cover plate for grain matching it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some Buckeye Burl



Glad you posted these pics, I have been trying to decide what neck wood combo to use with the lightly browning purple heart body I made. The black and brown of the wenge work with the purple or brown version of purple heart. Thanks dude!


----------



## Omzig

J_Mac said:


> https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-tt...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CLCa6P3D59wCFcaLUQodOCkPHw
> 
> Superb saw for the cash




Cool thanks for the heads up,I did look at this in a Screwfix leaflet a while back but the fence ending 2/3's of the table seems a bit strange,seems a lot of YT'er have remade/replaced there fences on this and saws like them.

I've seen a few other cheap TS's on ebay that look pretty much the same as the titans but seem to have better stock fences + a small boost to 1800watt @about £120 delivered (VonHaus & lumberjeck) Ive always ripped blanks down using a rip saw/jig and squared up on a joiner/thickness'er
but i think it's time to make some space for a tablesaw somewhere as im getting neck laminate envy lol


----------



## Walshy

Omzig said:


> Dam wish i could find some nice Black limba over here in the UK at a honest price,Last (quite plain) blank i saw pop up on ebay was £100/$130,ive seen some Eu sellers with boards that could be OK but they want stupid shipping costs £30+ mad.....
> 
> looks like i'll have to use the black limba a tops i do have with some white limba (idigbo)



Yeah, no idea what happened to UK black limba prices in the past couple of years - everything basically doubled in price. I watch so many guitar blanks on eBay so have a good feel for it. Very surprised to see you got a single piece for £60 recently, J_Mac! Somehow missed that one. By the way, can't wait to see what you do with those lovely blanks you've got ready. Also, I agree that FGW is a great seller - had a few off him in the past few years.


----------



## J_Mac

Walshy said:


> Yeah, no idea what happened to UK black limba prices in the past couple of years - everything basically doubled in price. I watch so many guitar blanks on eBay so have a good feel for it. Very surprised to see you got a single piece for £60 recently, J_Mac! Somehow missed that one. By the way, can't wait to see what you do with those lovely blanks you've got ready. Also, I agree that FGW is a great seller - had a few off him in the past few years.



£60 BL plank, approx 100cm x 15cm x 5cm (there’s a couple more from this seller too. Be quick though I might grab this one!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/263829331617

£75 single piece from FGW
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/272630196510


----------



## Walshy

Cheers, mate. I saw them earlier but misread the widths. FGW FTW lol.


----------



## Nick1

I pretty regularly am asked to work on odd and interesting guitars and other instruments.
This is the most recent one.

It’s an 8 string with emgs. What’s so weird about that you ask?
Well attached are some pics of the monstrosity.
Apparently it was left in an attic for years and it must have been used as a cat litter box because it reaked of cat piss. the wiring/pots were all corroded. Holes were drilled into the bridge to accommodate more strings.

After a few hours and some new piss free parts it’s ready for a setup. I can already tell intonation is gonna be a pain in the ass.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Found some time to continue my new headless 7 this weekend. Walnut body w/ Maple top and black veneer in between. Maple neck, Pao Ferro ferret, 26.5“ scale. C-Pig w/ burnt chrome cover, Mera Sub III hardware. Did a quick mockup assembly to get a preview of the final guitar. One minor problem I noticed: string spacing of the bridge (66mm) is wider than standard 7-string PUs (63mm). Not critical, but a little unfortunate...


----------



## Soya

Whipped up a pedalboard over the weekend from some leftover materials for my upcoming build, kinda rushed through it so didn't turn out so great but I don't really care heh. Tried to practice my chiseling on the power jack on the back but apparently I need more practice since I tore out a big chunk


----------



## saved




----------



## Ordacleaphobia

Soya said:


> Whipped up a pedalboard over the weekend from some leftover materials for my upcoming build, kinda rushed through it so didn't turn out so great but I don't really care heh. Tried to practice my chiseling on the power jack on the back but apparently I need more practice since I tore out a big chunk



Just posting to say that looks totally bitchin' and it looks like an absolutely top-shelf board.


----------



## Soya

Ordacleaphobia said:


> Just posting to say that looks totally bitchin' and it looks like an absolutely top-shelf board.


Thanks friend 
Sucks that I only have a tuner and the power amp so it's not much use at the moment


----------



## Taylor

Haven't posted in almost a year, been busy finishing up my degree, but I finally found some time to work on my projects. Working on my first bit of inlay.




Most of the pieces fit great so far, with one exception that will have to get filled in later.




You can see the gap better in the pic below 





Other than that I've got the body and headstock wet sanded, but it still needs a bit more to get the completely leveled.





Excuse the messy workshop


----------



## Soya

It's a workshop, it's supposed to be a mess.


----------



## Taylor

Soya said:


> It's a workshop, it's supposed to be a mess.



True enough I guess!

Some more progress pics:












For my first inlay I'm pretty happy with it, though I probably should have practiced on some scrap first 

Starting putting the frets in, have a chip to fix on the edge of the fretboard. I've made more progress in the past two days than I have in the past year


----------



## KR250

Finally dug into a piece of Rosewood I've had for a while. Had a bad crack through it so was trying to figure out the best way to make cuts and retain the most wood. Also it was flat sawn, so flipped the pieces 90 degrees after cutting to get quarter sawn(ish). I was able to get one more piece out of it (not pictured) so I think I can do two full set necks, and cut two thin stringers for the Wenge neck on the right. 

Set aside the pieces for now to ponder how best to lay it out for 5 piece neck. 





Before picture, you can see the crack on the bottom.


----------



## Soya

KR250 said:


> Finally dug into a piece of Rosewood I've had for a while. Had a bad crack through it so was trying to figure out the best way to make cuts and retain the most wood. Also it was flat sawn, so flipped the pieces 90 degrees after cutting to get quarter sawn(ish). I was able to get one more piece out of it (not pictured) so I think I can do two full set necks, and cut two thin stringers for the Wenge neck on the right.
> 
> Set aside the pieces for now to ponder how best to lay it out for 5 piece neck.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before picture, you can see the crack on the bottom.



What do you use for a photo hosting site? Your pics never show up on mobile.


----------



## KR250

Weird, I've just copy and pasted them directly into the message lately from my Google Drive, sync'd from phone. I used to use my own website for hosting after cropping them down. Maybe image size issue? I'll try on mobile next time.


----------



## saved

Its painted.Waiting to dry the painting for good and then i will assembly the parts


----------



## Soya

Gnarly. What's the scale length?


----------



## saved

47-44"


----------



## saved

Vig cobra long scale (34") & navarone colossal scale (47-44")


----------



## Soya

Just curious, how tall are you?


----------



## saved

Ι think 1.93 but maybe a litle bit more


----------



## Samark

Not my work bench, but some builds coming to fruition.

Nice Koa neck blank  with matching body. 5a top





5a top with trans white/Schaller Hannes


----------



## Soya

Man, that piece of Koa makes my wallet hurt.


----------



## electriceye

Samark said:


> Not my work bench, but some builds coming to fruition.
> 
> Nice Koa neck blank  with matching body. 5a top
> 
> View attachment 64254
> View attachment 64256
> 
> 
> 5a top with trans white/Schaller Hannes
> 
> View attachment 64255



Those are some beautiful woods. I'm bummed you chose to hide the top, though. That quilt is too nice to not have a clear stain. But, it ain't my axe!


----------



## Samark

electriceye said:


> Those are some beautiful woods. I'm bummed you chose to hide the top, though. That quilt is too nice to not have a clear stain. But, it ain't my axe!



Thanks! That white one is a different guitar, the above Koa/Quilt are yet to be put be put together to make a guitar


----------



## electriceye

Samark said:


> Thanks! That white one is a different guitar, the above Koa/Quilt are yet to be put be put together to make a guitar



Phew!!!!


----------



## Omzig

Just testing some Osmo white tinited polyX on maple

Standard Osmo polyx on the left/white tinited on the right x3 coats of each....and dam does the white tinted stuff really help keep the lightness of the maple!


----------



## KR250

Working with the CrystaLac products for the latest build. Had to go through a few revisions of finishing order, and a few re-do's already (hopefully no more). Goal was to do a "trans black" or grey type of finish on the rear side, and a slight black wash over the front top. Decided to do sanding sealer, grain filling, then black dye with alcohol rubbed in, then sanding sealer, and finally top coats for order. Getting the dye to blend in nicely over the sealer was a bit of a challenge though. I think going straight into the wood might blend nicer. The Ash grain was darkened from previous attempts and I liked how it looked, so left that before adding sealer on rev 3. 

I think my temperatures are on the edge of being too cold for it to self level properly, although with enough coats it looks pretty good and I really like working with this product. Just using a foam brush so far. Probably going to order a spray gun for next build though. Did about 6-8 coats of the Brite Tone then level sanded it. Nearly cut through in a few spots so building it back up to hopefully get a more level final surface to buff out.

Pics attached, I think this is right before I level sanded the first time. Buddy wanted me to cover up some of the voids with black dye to cover some of the epoxy filling of some pretty knarly knots.




Here's a fail I made where I started finishing over the cavity plate. The top coat basically welded it in, so I had to cut it out with a razor blade. Managed to get it without too much drama.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bo2NNeilvZa/?taken-by=knightbrolaire
sparkle tele


----------



## Defyantly

@KR250 DUDE!!!! that whole guitar is the TITS!!! does it have a build thread going?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Holy crap my dudes. Crystalac seems amazing. And kr250 those are some absolutely bonkers woods.


----------



## electriceye

A little wood pr0n for you. Scored a 2" thick curly maple body blank for cheap.


----------



## KR250

Defyantly said:


> @KR250 DUDE!!!! that whole guitar is the TITS!!! does it have a build thread going?



I'll start a separate consolidated build thread with more details once I get the thing done, hopefully very soon. Need to build up a LOT of coats before I level sand again. I think I'm just going to buy a spray gun as I'm not totally happy with any of the brushing methods yet.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

crystalac is nice and durable, but brushing it on sucks imo.


----------



## Soya

Well 3rd build is going in the trash. Not sure what happened, seemed I was about 90% there on all operations but just slight errors. Fret slots being a bit too deep, arm contour being just a bit off, neck scarf being ever so slightly angled. Very frustrating after just buying some new equipment and building a larger workbench. Think I'm going to take a step back for a while and try to figure out why I'm doing this in the first place.


----------



## KR250

Finally bought an HVLP spray gun from the Home Depot. Ditched the bad brushes I had been using and picked up nylon bristle for water based as backup. The foam brush I had used left too many air bubbles in the finish causing some issues. 





Spent a little time trying to figure out spray patterns and right pressure. Better than brushing but still a bit splotchy. I didn't do any thinning.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Guess who FINALLY figured out how to model a carved-top guitar 




Top that off with the fact that I found a local furniture refinisher who can spray nitro clearcoats for me, and things are looking promising for my next build.


----------



## Defyantly

That looks pretty sweet!! what program are you using?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Defyantly said:


> That looks pretty sweet!! what program are you using?



Fusion 360


----------



## Lemonbaby

Soya said:


> Well 3rd build is going in the trash. Not sure what happened, seemed I was about 90% there on all operations but just slight errors. Fret slots being a bit too deep, arm contour being just a bit off, neck scarf being ever so slightly angled. Very frustrating after just buying some new equipment and building a larger workbench. Think I'm going to take a step back for a while and try to figure out why I'm doing this in the first place.


Slots too deep and scarf slightly angled are no big problems. Don't be too hard on yourself...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Been hankering for something similar to a PRS lately so I might build one. Never done a set neck before. Should be fun.


----------



## MoonJelly

A little gremlin. Just kidding, that's a table, not a bench ;-)


----------



## KR250

A new tool always leads to another new tool. Old air compressor wasn't putting out the needed CFM for spraying.


----------



## Soya

Lemonbaby said:


> Slots too deep and scarf slightly angled are no big problems. Don't be too hard on yourself...


Eh, not big problems in the scheme of things but on this particular build I tried to do the best job I could and it seemed to only get worse. Kinda a pile of straw that eventually broke the back type thing. Figured I'd use it as a chance to really think about why I'm trying to build these things anyway, because it sure does cause me a lot of stress.


----------



## KR250

Soya said:


> Figured I'd use it as a chance to really think about why I'm trying to build these things anyway, because it sure does cause me a lot of stress.



Sometimes I feel the same way. Take a moment to step away for a bit to keep it fun, it's easy to get caught up in the building aspect only. I keep imaging a room of pleasure.....hung with custom self built guitars  For the moment I just play "build #5" exclusively while I look at an expensive ESP collecting dust next to it.


----------



## jwade

I’ve had my fair share of moments where I just want to burn every single project I have going.

It’s taken me a long time to understand where the disconnect happens in my mind, and for the most part it’s the desire to pull off something perfect on the first try. That’s rarely possible, especially when building nearly entirely by hand.

Don’t let it get you down. To quote someone else on this forum: “it’s just wood, man.”


----------



## Soya

Thanks for the words of encouragement.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Messing around with leather dyes and spraying shellac with my hvlp gun. Both are going well. Planning a prs fade in the future.


----------



## Defyantly

That looks beautiful! What does are you using for that?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Defyantly said:


> That looks beautiful! What does are you using for that?



Angelus leather dyes. Purple to blue to turquoise to green. Gonna use full concentration on all of them next time. The turquoise came out a little light.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

So I went to use my cnc machine after letting it sit idle most of the summer (when you've only got like three viable months to be outdoors you take advantage of it). When I got there I noticed my t track board had warped so much it pulled its screws out of the wasteboard! 




That's a photo of it after I had taken it off and pulled the t track out of it. What had happened was the boards in between the aluminum tracks swelled in the humidity and pushed against the tracks, arching the whole board so much that the four anchor screws I had pulled out of the mdf wasteboard on the machine. 

So I built a better one. This time I routed channels in a single plywood panel and screwed the tracks in and all the way through the wasteboard. Now instead of four screws holding it in place I've got about 40. It is also lower profile this way, which gives me a little more clearance on my table - something I've been missing. 




Now I just need to track down the missing parts on my dust boot and I'll be ready to really kick up my cnc projects moving forward.


----------



## Samark

Some PME coming in (left). Now I just need to decide what guitar to build with it. Bog Oak or Ebony archtop comes to mind...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Added a neck angle, and some colors to the visualization. It won't be brown though, I just wanted the contrast:




Gonna try finger jointing the neck:




We'll see if a 1.5"-at-max joint can hold


----------



## Defyantly

^^That seems like a pain to accomplish unless you have a CNC machine.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Defyantly said:


> ^^That seems like a pain to accomplish *unless you have a CNC machine*.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

personally I'd just do a dovetail or mortise/tenon joint like taylor does for their electrics. Let us know how that finger joint works out


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> personally I'd just do a dovetail or mortise/tenon joint like taylor does for their electrics. Let us know how that finger joint works out


Will do. The main reason I'm going this route is because the neck angle doesn't allow me to do a very deep tenon unless I want to make my neck blank super thick and just mill away a TON of hardwood, which I don't want to do.


----------



## Randy

Majorly fucked up a build on my last shop day, so I needed a pick me up. Got a deal on some off cuts and decided to do a quick and dirty for myself.

First swing at slotting a fretboard on the machine and I'm super happy with the results.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Randy said:


> Majorly fucked up a build on my last shop day, so I needed a pick me up. Got a deal on some off cuts and decided to do a quick and dirty for myself.
> 
> First swing at slotting a fretboard on the machine and I'm super happy with the results.
> View attachment 65088


What is it, a ten string?


----------



## Randy

Just a fanned 8 string but I cut it oversized, expecting to cut it flush when I get the neck shaped.

Like I said, this is my first time cutting one on the CNC. Up until now, I have a radial arm saw with a slotting blade on it that I'll use to cut the fretboard blank full width, then taper it with a flush trim saw when I get it attached. This is my first fanned fret build and I'm weary of cutting the slots with no taper on the board, then having the geometry not perfect when I go to glue it up.

Current plan is for this to be ~1/8" oversized with the centerline marked, flush trim and then take it to the vertical belt sander.


----------



## Randy

Oh and as far as the fan itself, its 26.5" to 25.5" and the straight fret is at the 6th. I've never like the straight fret ~12 because chords get weird on the low frets. I'd have gone like Strandberg does on the 6ers (straight at the zero) but the high frets lean way too much for my taste. Seemed like the best of both worlds.

As far as the scale, I had a Schecter at 26.5" and the low strings felt fine for F# with an 80. Im a low tension guy, and I'd have preferred 24.75" for the treble side but the fan starts to get too much for me at that range.... Maybe in the future depending on how this goes.


----------



## Soya

Randy said:


> Majorly fucked up a build on my last shop day, so I needed a pick me up. Got a deal on some off cuts and decided to do a quick and dirty for myself.
> 
> First swing at slotting a fretboard on the machine and I'm super happy with the results.
> View attachment 65088



That's my dream there, cnc slotted and cut board so everything is perfect everytime. I always get nervous slotting by hand, have had 2 slots drift on me already.


----------



## KR250

New build thread coming imminently. Worked out most of the kinks with the Brite Tone finish on this one. Spraying with the right CFM was the key. Next time 20 coats minimum and more sanding with the 800 grit. Still not perfect in other spots, this is the nicest section of it which I'm happy with.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KR250 said:


> New build thread coming imminently. Worked out most of the kinks with the Brite Tone finish on this one. Spraying with the right CFM was the key. Next time 20 coats minimum and more sanding with the 800 grit. Still not perfect in other spots, this is the nicest section of it which I'm happy with.
> 
> View attachment 65103


Oh wow that's nice.


----------



## FwLineberry

Working on my Fat-o-Catster


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Finally hooked up my cheap hvlp sprayer to my cheap pancake compressor and shot a few coats of shellac. This works better than literally any finish or finishing system I've used before. Plus it's basically totally nontoxic, which is neat.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Finally had time to dye and paint my headless 7. As I mainly have blue and clear/natural builds sitting around, I decided to give red/purple a go...

https://picload.org/view/dcoidrca/img_20181118_170130.jpg.html

https://imgur.com/a/jDbfmvC

https://ibb.co/fo4rS0





Edit: MAAAAAN, am I annoyed by the "images issue" on this forum. Tried three sites and nothing works...


----------



## jwade

Lemonbaby said:


> Finally had time to dye and paint my headless 7. As I mainly have blue and clear/natural builds sitting around, I decided to give red/purple a go...
> 
> https://picload.org/view/dcoidrca/img_20181118_170130.jpg.html
> 
> https://imgur.com/a/jDbfmvC
> 
> https://ibb.co/fo4rS0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: MAAAAAN, am I annoyed by the "images issue" on this forum. Tried three sites and nothing works...



Got you, homie: https://postimages.org

Also, that color^ is fucking rad.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Sorry for the double post on the same thing, couldn't edit the old one anymore...

@jwade: thanks for the tip.


----------



## FwLineberry

New project: Replacing stock neck with scalloped MM neck on my '83 strat..

Was hoping for a little more fingerboard thickness on he MM neck, but it's coming along nicely.


----------



## Soya

Very nice. I've always wanted to try scalloping a neck but it looks supremely tedious.


----------



## FwLineberry

Soya said:


> ...but it looks supremely tedious.



It is. I forgot just how tedious it is. I haven't done one in a very long time. I tried using a Dremel tool to rough it out, but between the mess and the lack of control, I just went back to using files and sandpaper.


----------



## GraemeH

Every time I get 5 or 6 frets into a full scallop I'm reminded that the last time I swore that next time I'd just pay someone to do it for me. On the plus side once you've done it to 40 year old maple you appreciate how butter-soft rosewood is by comparison which makes it easier.


----------



## FwLineberry

I tried to justify buying a warmoth pre-scalloped, but once the price hit $400, I just couldn't do it.

This will be good warmup for my next project which will be to convert my 7 string maple fingerboard into a scalloped rosewood board.


----------



## MoonJelly

An rg8 with a fabric top and back.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

picked up some more maple tops


----------



## Taylor

Have an old Jackson that I never play, so I thought I'd mess around with it and turn it into a guitar that I actually want to play. So I decided I wanted to strip all the paint off, change some things on the body, swap the hardware (I hate tune-o-matics), and swirl it.






I added some more aggressive bevels and a cutout for easier higher fret access like on the ESP Alexi V's. It's interesting, they put a (maple?) veneer over the alder body before they painted it at the factory.





I also added a "tummy bevel" as it was very uncomfortable for me to play before without one. I also doweled up the hardware holes and drilled for a Hipshot.





The Humbrol paints that I'm going to use to do the swirl.





The body as it stands, with a coat of primer. There's some gaps around the dowels that I need to do a better job of filling in.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Just ordered some headless hardware, so I guess I'm building a headless guitar next. Finally.


----------



## Defyantly

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Just ordered some headless hardware, so I guess I'm building a headless guitar next. Finally.


Where do you find your headless hardware? All I can find are either the stupid expensive stuff or the cheap Chinese parts for bass not really any middle ground for 6 or 7 stringers.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Defyantly said:


> Where do you find your headless hardware? All I can find are either the stupid expensive stuff or the cheap Chinese parts for bass not really any middle ground for 6 or 7 stringers.



I'm trying out these ones. Been eyeing them for a while and looking for reviews but I've seen nothing so I'm just gonna give it a go. 

They aren't cheap but they aren't terrible.







http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338014327&icep_item=192600914429


----------



## jemfloral

KnightBrolaire said:


> picked up some more maple tops



That top is insanely nice! Looking forward to seeing what you'll do with it @KnightBrolaire



Randy said:


> Oh and as far as the fan itself, its 26.5" to 25.5" and the straight fret is at the 6th. I've never like the straight fret ~12 because chords get weird on the low frets. I'd have gone like Strandberg does on the 6ers (straight at the zero) but the high frets lean way too much for my taste. Seemed like the best of both worlds.
> 
> As far as the scale, I had a Schecter at 26.5" and the low strings felt fine for F# with an 80. Im a low tension guy, and I'd have preferred 24.75" for the treble side but the fan starts to get too much for me at that range.... Maybe in the future depending on how this goes.



@Randy I'm in the same boat. My favorite guitar is my strandberg OS7 (26.25" - 25.5"), and am hoping someday to find a way to make an eight that extends those scales down to an eighth string (i.e. essentially a 26.5" eighth string scale). I can deal with a little flop, knowing that the guitar fits my hands the best. Looking forward to your build!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

@jemfloral 
that particular quilt is prob going to be a teal color with black edges, or maybe a prs dragon type fade with shades of green. i've got some other builds i need to finish up before anything happens with it


----------



## jemfloral

@KnightBrolaire Well finish them up and get to it!  I'll look up the dragon finish, but teal with black edges sounds really cool.


----------



## Randy

jemfloral said:


> @Randy I'm in the same boat. My favorite guitar is my strandberg OS7 (26.25" - 25.5"), and am hoping someday to find a way to make an eight that extends those scales down to an eighth string (i.e. essentially a 26.5" eighth string scale). I can deal with a little flop, knowing that the guitar fits my hands the best. Looking forward to your build!



Great minds, etc  

Where's the straight fret on those? ~12th fret, right? Honestly, I'm not much of a fanned guy but I think it's got it's use and I'd like to really find the sweet spot between scale and fret placement. I played my brother in law's 8-strings (all straight scale) over the Thanksgiving break and man, I remembered how much I hate the tension on those high strings once you get the scale long enough to get F# to intonate without a bridge suspension cable for strings. 

Functionally, I've definitely warmed up to the RANGE on an 8 string but haven't found a happy medium on how to get that and still feel as comfy as a 6 on the other strings. I've got a Variax that kinda handles that duty fine (i've got it programmed to changing tuning a half step with every position of the pickup selector) but it's expensive technology, limited aesthetic choices and I hate fucking batteries. Hopefully I don't end up building a dozen fanned guitars before I find a solution 

Not to tip my hand too much, but this fretboard is already married up with a neck and a body; it deliberately moved really quick. Not that it's going to be any big revolutionary thing but I made a 'sister' guitar to this one last year in 6-strings, now I've got the 8 so I'm thinking of making a 7-stringer before I roll them all out in a NGD. We'll see how patient I remain.


----------



## Soya

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I'm trying out these ones. Been eyeing them for a while and looking for reviews but I've seen nothing so I'm just gonna give it a go.
> 
> They aren't cheap but they aren't terrible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5338014327&icep_item=192600914429



I used those on my first build, they work fine.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> I used those on my first build, they work fine.


Really glad to hear that. Thanks.

Do you know what the brand is? Are these the tengda ones?


----------



## Soya

Yes they are. I had some buzzing on the saddles so I recut them but it looks like they've updated the saddle design so that's good. Otherwise stable on tuning, bit stiff to turn but I figure less likely to move itself while playing heh. I also used some short 3mm screws to lock the tuner instead of those large brass thumb wheels, much cleaner look.


----------



## flickoflash

Old # 7


----------



## jemfloral

Randy said:


> Great minds, etc
> 
> Where's the straight fret on those? ~12th fret, right? Honestly, I'm not much of a fanned guy but I think it's got it's use and I'd like to really find the sweet spot between scale and fret placement. I played my brother in law's 8-strings (all straight scale) over the Thanksgiving break and man, I remembered how much I hate the tension on those high strings once you get the scale long enough to get F# to intonate without a bridge suspension cable for strings.



I'm 90% sure the OS7's (and CL7's, if you can find one) are a ninth-fret parallel setup. Strandberg 28"-26.5" 8 stringers have a parallel 7th fret, and the other non-OS 7's (25.75"-25") have a parallel 5th fret. For me, the OS7 scale and neutral fret just feels right.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I really want to build an exact copy of a padalka neptune, but a copy somehow feels.... Lame.


----------



## Randy

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I really want to build an exact copy of a padalka neptune, but a copy somehow feels.... Lame.



I'm there with you. Stuff that's out there already definitely serves as a big inspiration but if I like something THAT much that I really want to build one (as opposed to just buying one), I've always gotta do it with a twist. The last thing you'd want is for your identity (whether you're a professional or just building for yourself) as a builder to just be that you make cheap copies of other people's stuff.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Randy said:


> I'm there with you. Stuff that's out there already definitely serves as a big inspiration but if I like something THAT much that I really want to build one (as opposed to just buying one), I've always gotta do it with a twist. The last thing you'd want is for your identity (whether you're a professional or just building for yourself) as a builder to just be that you make cheap copies of other people's stuff.






Sketched this on my way to work this morning. I think it's about what I want. And not exactly the same as padalka or even a Boden.

Hum-P90 because I've always wanted to try it.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> I used those on my first build, they work fine.


If you know it, can you share the range of height and intonation adjustment on the saddles? I want to start designing my build.

Lowest saddle height setting is the main concern.


----------



## Purelojik

I’m baack! Just posted some builds in the “made by SSO members” sticky thread.

I recently punched through a neck for the first time and man was I angry. I’m currently trying to make a new one after prying off the fretboard.


----------



## Defyantly

That last neck pic......So gorgeous!!!


----------



## pondman

Delicious !


----------



## Soya

LiveOVErdrive said:


> If you know it, can you share the range of height and intonation adjustment on the saddles? I want to start designing my build.
> 
> Lowest saddle height setting is the main concern.



Lowest saddle height = 12mm from bottom of mount
Highest saddle height = 15.6mm from bottom of mount
Intonation adjustment = 11.8mm


----------



## Soya

And a pic for reference I guess.


----------



## jemfloral

@Purelojik a little off-topic but how do you like the Shaper? Any comparison notes vs. Shapeoko for instance?


----------



## Pikka Bird

Nuthin' but wenge...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Ergonomic superstrat goldtop with p90s? Yes please.


----------



## Taylor

So a few years ago I wanted to overhaul my first "real" guitar, a 90's Class Axe era BC Rich Virgin. The licensed FR block broke and the body was made out of plywood so I eventually decided to build a new body out of some off cuts of swamp ash and walnut. I've had the body glued up and cut to shape sitting on a shelf for a couple years now too. I had originally planned to paint it a matte gunmetal grey, but decided to see what some dye would look like on it. I'm not sure if I like the dye, as the grain in the swamp ash isn't too consistent in the body pieces. Thoughts?


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Taylor said:


> So a few years ago I wanted to overhaul my first "real" guitar, a 90's Class Axe era BC Rich Virgin. The licensed FR block broke and the body was made out of plywood so I eventually decided to build a new body out of some off cuts of swamp ash and walnut. I've had the body glued up and cut to shape sitting on a shelf for a couple years now too. I had originally planned to paint it a matte gunmetal grey, but decided to see what some dye would look like on it. I'm not sure if I like the dye, as the grain in the swamp ash isn't too consistent in the body pieces. Thoughts?
> View attachment 65607
> View attachment 65608


A blue/purple mix would be more complementary to the brown of the walnut. It's a bit too washed out right now.


----------



## MikeNeal

i like the stain as is. I also like the inconsistency in the ash.


----------



## Taylor

KnightBrolaire said:


> A blue/purple mix would be more complementary to the brown of the walnut. It's a bit too washed out right now.



Hmm, maybe a blue-purple to blue burst? I'll have to test it out on some scrap first to see if I like it. 



MikeNeal said:


> i like the stain as is. I also like the inconsistency in the ash.



I really like the strong wide grain on the left-most piece, but since this was made from off cuts I didn't have much of a choice.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Taylor said:


> Hmm, maybe a blue-purple to blue burst? I'll have to test it out on some scrap first to see if I like it.
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the strong wide grain on the left-most piece, but since this was made from off cuts I didn't have much of a choice.








something like 273 or 274 would work really well, or if you want lighter, go 2736 or 2746.
I'd emphasize more blue, as darker purples tend to look almost black and need a lot of light to see the true color.


----------



## flickoflash




----------



## Purelojik

jemfloral said:


> @Purelojik a little off-topic but how do you like the Shaper? Any comparison notes vs. Shapeoko for instance?


I love the Shaper. Haven’t used the shapoko but I’ve heard only great things. I just the Shaper because I don’t have my own shop and it’s portable and super easy for the work I’m doing. With a full gantry cnc I imagine you’d have far more capability with all axis and 3D carving etc.


----------



## IGC

I routed the channels for the dual - dual action 22" ? truss rods in these two 10 string guitars over Thanksgiving weekend. They fit snug, yay! Still need to cut for the larger wrench end of the rod. Still a lot of work left to do! Kind of at a stand still until I can find some time after work (day job 10 hrs /day plus) to use the Haas VF2 and at least make some proto 10 string extreme fan bobbins. Been holding off because I really want to cut the fret slots, maybe pickup routes and another guitar project with Haas. Really trying to avoid sawing fret slots by hand. Also kind of holding off because >>Do I really want to do the 6" extreme fan thing??< <The 32" scale side of the fretboard will end up way up on the body. I will need to somehow extend the current fret boards I have or, get more cool fretboard wood! Gives me a reason to visit the local Woodcraft store!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

IGC said:


> I routed the channels for the dual - dual action 22" ? truss rods in these two 10 string guitars over Thanksgiving weekend. They fit snug, yay! Still need to cut for the larger wrench end of the rod. Still a lot of work left to do! Kind of at a stand still until I can find some time after work (day job 10 hrs /day plus) to use the Haas VF2 and at least make some proto 10 string extreme fan bobbins. Been holding off because I really want to cut the fret slots, maybe pickup routes and another guitar project with Haas. Really trying to avoid sawing fret slots by hand. Also kind of holding off because >>Do I really want to do the 6" extreme fan thing??< <The 32" scale side of the fretboard will end up way up on the body. I will need to somehow extend the current fret boards I have or, get more cool fretboard wood! Gives me a reason to visit the local Woodcraft store!



Looks awesome. Those things are beastly!

You could end the frets partway across the fretboard so the heel end of the neck ends like a non-fanned neck. Like Skerv guitars :


----------



## IGC

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Looks awesome. Those things are beastly!
> 
> You could end the frets partway across the fretboard so the heel end of the neck ends like a non-fanned neck. Like Skerv guitars :



Thanks for the suggestion


----------



## flickoflash




----------



## J_Mac

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Ergonomic superstrat goldtop with p90s? Yes please.
> 
> View attachment 65587
> 
> 
> View attachment 65588
> 
> 
> View attachment 65589


Nice! What's that modelling program? My trial on Illustrator just ran out.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

J_Mac said:


> Nice! What's that modelling program? My trial on Illustrator just ran out.


Fusion 360. Free license for hobbyists. Great CAD/CAM software.


----------



## J_Mac

Taylor said:


> So a few years ago I wanted to overhaul my first "real" guitar, a 90's Class Axe era BC Rich Virgin. The licensed FR block broke and the body was made out of plywood so I eventually decided to build a new body out of some off cuts of swamp ash and walnut. I've had the body glued up and cut to shape sitting on a shelf for a couple years now too. I had originally planned to paint it a matte gunmetal grey, but decided to see what some dye would look like on it. I'm not sure if I like the dye, as the grain in the swamp ash isn't too consistent in the body pieces. Thoughts?
> View attachment 65607
> View attachment 65608


Love it dude. I think it will look ace when it all comes together, maybe even some red pickups to bring out the walnut?


----------



## Samark

Getting there!

Koa body/Neck, African Blackwood fretboard and head veneer, 1/4" Koa top


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

J_Mac said:


> Nice! What's that modelling program? My trial on Illustrator just ran out.


For the record I've since figured out how to do prettier renders (thanks MikeNeal)


----------



## J_Mac

LiveOVErdrive said:


> For the record I've since figured out how to do prettier renders (thanks MikeNeal)
> 
> View attachment 65880


Wicked! I’ll have a craic on it tonight


----------



## Taylor

So I'm having trouble swirling the Jackson that I'm fixing up. My first attempt, the paint (I'm using Humbrol enamels) would immediately spread out on the surface and evacuate the center of the tub, leaving a ring of paint around the sides of the container. I've heard that this is caused by too much borax in the water; I had added the recommended 1.5 tablespoons per gallon. My second attempt, I didn't use borax at all as I had done a small test and the paint floated well without it. The problem with my second attempt was that the paint didn't want to spread out enough, and sat in thick pools on the surface of the water, so when I dipped only the first color (black) really showed up on the guitar. Do i need to thin my paint, or would this be caused by not enough borax? I tried half the recommended amount and it was still too much.


----------



## Albake21

This may sound a bit crazy, but how possible would it be to build a guitar from scratch only using hand tools? (besides generic tools like a drill). I've been trying to figure out if it's possible for the past year.... oh apartment life!


----------



## Defyantly

here ya go. All by hand except inlay work.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Albake21 said:


> This may sound a bit crazy, but how possible would it be to build a guitar from scratch only using hand tools? (besides generic tools like a drill). I've been trying to figure out if it's possible for the past year.... oh apartment life!


Can be done and good tools make it a lot more enjoyable. All depends on your experience with hand tools to begin with. Expect some learning curve to run through if you're not used to working with hand planes, chisels and of course sharpening those to razor level...


----------



## Albake21

Defyantly said:


> here ya go. All by hand except inlay work.



Well I know what I'm watching for the next hour. Thank you!


----------



## Albake21

Lemonbaby said:


> Can be done and good tools make it a lot more enjoyable. All depends on your experience with hand tools to begin with. Expect some learning curve to run through if you're not used to working with hand planes, chisels and of course sharpening those to razor level...


Well I'd like to do sort of a test guitar and buy super cheap materials to make the bare minimum just to see if it's possible. I'd plan to buy the tools as I go, so I'm okay with it taking a long time. I'm a pretty crafty person, so I feel pretty confident in doing it. My buddy also has a small wood shop so I might cheat with the big stuff like cutting the body, but doing everything else by hand.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I 


Albake21 said:


> Well I know what I'm watching for the next hour. Thank you!


Watched that the other day. It was incredible. My big takeaway was "oh man, band saws save a lot of time".

That guy has some expensive hand tools though. Like the plane he uses for the truss rod channel. That things gotta be pricey. Or all of his saws.


----------



## Defyantly

^^^This for sure^^^ Although he really only used like 2-3 saws to do most of the major cutting. The hand drilling looked like a pain the ass! Especially lots of holes with a forstner bit. I wonder how much that guitar ended up weighing in the end? Still looks like a chunky boi!


----------



## Lemonbaby

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I
> 
> Watched that the other day. It was incredible. My big takeaway was "oh man, band saws save a lot of time".
> 
> That guy has some expensive hand tools though. Like the plane he uses for the truss rod channel. That things gotta be pricey. Or all of his saws.


The Japanese saws aren't that expensive. One really good hand plane costs as much as three or four saws, usable chisels are in a similar range like saws. And I'm only using Veritas (w/ V11 blades that I highly recomend), Lie Nielsen is REALLY expensive... 

Great video BTW! I'd personally either stay away from building a semi-hollow design with hand tools or use a really soft wood for the body. Still a PITA though, just a wee smaller.

One more thing: hand planing on a flimsy table is also a major PITA. That small 6mm planer used for the truss rod channel is roughly 50 EUR from Veritas. Not cheap, but I chiseled out a truss rod channel once and it's basically impossible to achieve a clean result.


----------



## Albake21

One last question. I'm only asking here because I don't want to create a thread for simple questions. How would I go by actually using this template I found? I was thinking of printing it out into pieces on paper, but I don't know how to get the exact measurements correct. Anyone have any good suggestions?

EDIT: I think I found the correct size using the Hipshot dimensions and several print attempts.


----------



## crackout

Just make sure to print in 100% without scaling.


----------



## dmlinger

The idea of building with only hand tools sounds cool. As mentioned above, good hand tools are expensive and often cost more than their power counterparts. Not to mention, if you don't have experience sharpening plane blades and chisels, you'll have a miserable time. 

I'd strongly urge you to at least use a router with some pattern bits.


----------



## Albake21

dmlinger said:


> The idea of building with only hand tools sounds cool. As mentioned above, good hand tools are expensive and often cost more than their power counterparts. Not to mention, if you don't have experience sharpening plane blades and chisels, you'll have a miserable time.
> 
> I'd strongly urge you to at least use a router with some pattern bits.


My buddy is on board with helping me so I'm going to make the big cuts and some routing with power tools. The rest though will be done in my tiny studio apartment.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Albake21 said:


> My buddy is on board with helping me so I'm going to make the big cuts and some routing with power tools. The rest though will be done in my tiny studio apartment.


Awesome. Good luck and post your progress.


----------



## Albake21

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Awesome. Good luck and post your progress.


Thank you! I will definitely be making a thread on my progress.


----------



## dmlinger

Albake21 said:


> Thank you! I will definitely be making a thread on my progress.



Excited for you and good call on using a few power tools...would have hated it if you got unto it and became frustrated because it is a lot of fun and very rewarding!


----------



## MikeNeal

Albake21 said:


> One last question. I'm only asking here because I don't want to create a thread for simple questions. How would I go by actually using this template I found? I was thinking of printing it out into pieces on paper, but I don't know how to get the exact measurements correct. Anyone have any good suggestions?
> 
> EDIT: I think I found the correct size using the Hipshot dimensions and several print attempts.



My suggestion is to spend a little bit of money and have the templates cnc cut or laser cut on mdf. Was the best decision I ever made when i used to do my own router work


----------



## Albake21

MikeNeal said:


> My suggestion is to spend a little bit of money and have the templates cnc cut or laser cut on mdf. Was the best decision I ever made when i used to do my own router work


I was just going to make them myself on mdf. It's more work, but I don't mind doing it.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Albake21 said:


> I was just going to make them myself on mdf. It's more work, but I don't mind doing it.


Very doable. I did it that way once. 

If you take your templates to a print/shipping shop with a large format printer, you can have them print the stuff out full size on a single sheet. Then glue the paper to your mdf and cut carefully.


----------



## MikeNeal

Albake21 said:


> I was just going to make them myself on mdf. It's more work, but I don't mind doing it.



I found it more difficult to get it perfect by hand. A full set of laser cut templates (body, neck, fret board, pickup, and control cavity) was about 30 bucks from a local mom and pop cnc place. 

But if determined to do them by hand a good drum sander is key for getting the shape perfect


----------



## Albake21

MikeNeal said:


> I found it more difficult to get it perfect by hand. A full set of laser cut templates (body, neck, fret board, pickup, and control cavity) was about 30 bucks from a local mom and pop cnc place.
> 
> But if determined to do them by hand a good drum sander is key for getting the shape perfect


Damn really? I'll try looking around Chicago to find a place then, for that much I'll happily buy them instead.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Albake21 said:


> Damn really? I'll try looking around Chicago to find a place then, for that much I'll happily buy them instead.


Depending on what you're building you can probably find pre cut templates on eBay too.


----------



## Albake21

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Depending on what you're building you can probably find pre cut templates on eBay too.


That I sadly can't find. I'm making a blackmachine, I have the blueprints, but I can't find any premade templates.


----------



## MikeNeal

https://www.instagram.com/p/BfZNvhXBKA1/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1bbly5palcscq

Julius Jahn makes templates. He's done a couple for me in the past and they were good.


----------



## Albake21

MikeNeal said:


> https://www.instagram.com/p/BfZNvhXBKA1/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1bbly5palcscq
> 
> Julius Jahn makes templates. He's done a couple for me in the past and they were good.


Oh damn, I'll try and contact him to get a price. Thank you!


----------



## Omzig

Been given this Rg550 body 3pc basswood (told it was stripped about 18 years ago so late 90/2000'ish id guess ) 







Gave it a quick sand over to remove the filler and what ever the fuck else had been spread on it,Trem pocket/post holes are a mess so im going to route out a 25mm deep channel from the whole center from the neck pocket down and fill it with a block of ash and re-route the trem and go for my fav HS pup layout







after that's done i think i'll use this one for some swirl/drip paint tests

Check out the factory filler and knot! ouch


----------



## Solodini

Nice reminder of why guitars get painted!


----------



## Omzig

Solodini said:


> Nice reminder of why guitars get painted!



yep i guess you can use just anything as long as you can buy it in paint and clear 

Talking of paint ,why i let my ibby/tele thing cure i though id drag out a few other projects id started last summer but never got around to finishing....

Charvel specturm re-re-finsh...org blue refinished in tango orange a year or so ago,lent it to a mate and it came back chipped on the horns and around trem cavitiy grrr so i re-re-finished it in Cherry/Red metallic and let the clear blow off for 6 months.










Still got a bit of flatting to do inside the horns and a few spots that need a little more cutting + i need to get a decal cut for the headstock,but im pretty happy with it atm, not bad for cheap £3 a pop rattle cans.


----------



## penguin_316

Albake21 said:


> This may sound a bit crazy, but how possible would it be to build a guitar from scratch only using hand tools? (besides generic tools like a drill). I've been trying to figure out if it's possible for the past year.... oh apartment life!



You’re going to want to use a plunging router with the appropriate bits. Chiseling is not only harder, but a lot less accurate. Routers are one of the most dangerous tools I use, make sure you know how they work and how the bit spins. For real, before you use one please watch some tutorials.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

penguin_316 said:


> You’re going to want to use a plunging router with the appropriate bits. Chiseling is not only harder, but a lot less accurate. Routers are one of the most dangerous tools I use, make sure you know how they work and how the bit spins. For real, before you use one please watch some tutorials.


It can be done though, but as shown in this video it is a LOT of work. Even if you replaced the hand drill with a cordless one.


----------



## Albake21

penguin_316 said:


> You’re going to want to use a plunging router with the appropriate bits. Chiseling is not only harder, but a lot less accurate. Routers are one of the most dangerous tools I use, make sure you know how they work and how the bit spins. For real, before you use one please watch some tutorials.


I actually backed out of doing this and found a local wood shop to go to. I pay a monthly fee but it's definitely worth it.


----------



## Defyantly

Albake21 said:


> I actually backed out of doing this and found a local wood shop to go to. I pay a monthly fee but it's definitely worth it.


 I wish there was something like that around where i live! I would do it in a heart beat! The hardest thing that is holding up my build is a lack of tools and materials! Having a "subscription" shop would make everything that much simpler!


----------



## Albake21

Defyantly said:


> I wish there was something like that around where i live! I would do it in a heart beat! The hardest thing that is holding up my build is a lack of tools and materials! Having a "subscription" shop would make everything that much simpler!


Search for Maker Spaces or Hacker Spaces. They are all over the world. The one I go to is the 2nd biggest in the country.


----------



## Omzig

Albake21 said:


> Search for Maker Spaces or Hacker Spaces. They are all over the world. The one I go to is the 2nd biggest in the country.



I had a quick look at the UK version which is called fizzpop,closest one to me was about 25mile round trip + £300/$400 a year access fee,i was going to pop in to check out there openbuilds cnc setup but open night is 7-10pm wed only and it's not located in the nicest part of the city,still a great option if you haven't got space at home or outlay for kit.

Started to rebuild my overarm pin router setup,old one kind worked OK but was made to fit my pillar drill base so i had to keep removing it everytime i wanted to use the drill and it was a PITA to fine adjust...this is just the head setup sofar and uses some T8 thread and diy CNC parts + draw runners and pipe clips,Has about 5" of travel


----------



## Albake21

Omzig said:


> I had a quick look at the UK version which is called fizzpop,closest one to me was about 25mile round trip + £300/$400 a year access fee,i was going to pop in to check out there openbuilds cnc setup but open night is 7-10pm wed only and it's not located in the nicest part of the city,still a great option if you haven't got space at home or outlay for kit.


That's actually really nice considering I pay $40 a month. Thankfully though I live 15 minutes away from the space from both work and home. It's also open 24/7 so I can go whenever I feel like. 

I'd love a pin router at the space. Makes template routing so much easier.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Omzig said:


> I had a quick look at the UK version which is called fizzpop,closest one to me was about 25mile round trip + £300/$400 a year access fee,i was going to pop in to check out there openbuilds cnc setup but open night is 7-10pm wed only and it's not located in the nicest part of the city,still a great option if you haven't got space at home or outlay for kit.
> 
> Started to rebuild my overarm pin router setup,old one kind worked OK but was made to fit my pillar drill base so i had to keep removing it everytime i wanted to use the drill and it was a PITA to fine adjust...this is just the head setup sofar and uses some T8 thread and diy CNC parts + draw runners and pipe clips,Has about 5" of travel


I was just about to tune up my own pin router again. Mine is reversed from yours, with the router in a table and the pin on top. 

I have a cnc machine but I think the best usage in the future might be to use it to make templates and fretboards and do much of the main work with the pin router. That way I can gauge the cutting speed and such by hand and feel. Less likely to make mistakes, and less issues with having to block an hour of machine time and hope everything works perfectly.


----------



## Omzig

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I was just about to tune up my own pin router again. Mine is reversed from yours, with the router in a table and the pin on top.
> 
> I have a cnc machine but I think the best usage in the future might be to use it to make templates and fretboards and do much of the main work with the pin router. That way I can gauge the cutting speed and such by hand and feel. Less likely to make mistakes, and less issues with having to block an hour of machine time and hope everything works perfectly.



I had (it's packed up now) a table router but i couldn't stop it grabbing and so i never felt safe using it  overarm is just as deadly no doubt but it strangely feels safer! i was tossing up between cnc and pin/templates but after seeing all the issues across the web with calibartion/errors ect ect i decided to get my templates cut elsewhere then go the pin way,i'll see how it goes can always get a cnc setup in the future.

So got the pin router head setup mounted and wanted to give it a quick run out just using some guide bits (getting a guide pin insert set up milled) so i ripped out the center mess of the above RG550 body and slapped a core of ash in there 






Once it's sealed and white this one is up for some swirly/neon drip paint tests.


----------



## Taylor

Been dealing with some really bad depression the past few months that sapped any and all motivation to work on my projects. I am feeling better now, and am continuing work. I made a stand for my headphones out of some scrap flame maple and wenge from some of my builds. Putting a couple of coats of epoxy finish on it.




Trying to get the pickups finished for my second build (http://sevenstring.org/threads/second-build-multi-scale-seven.288051/) which I should have finished by the end of this week. I have one more bobbin to wind and then I can wire them up and wax pot them.


----------



## Defyantly

I was hoping you would get back to your PU build! Those are sick and I'm thinking about doing the same thing. Where did you get all of the components for the pickups?


----------



## Taylor

Thanks! I got the wire, slugs, pole pieces, phenolic standoffs, magnets, and wiring from Monotone. Edit: Mojotone not monotone


----------



## DudeManBrother

Finally got around to building a proper current limiter. I had most of the parts on hand so it only cost me $10 out of pocket. It’s probably in the neighborhood of $35 to build, which is still not bad.


----------



## Solodini

Taylor said:


> Been dealing with some really bad depression the past few months that sapped any and all motivation to work on my projects. I am feeling better now, and am continuing work. I made a stand for my headphones out of some scrap flame maple and wenge from some of my builds. Putting a couple of coats of epoxy finish on it.
> 
> View attachment 67850
> 
> 
> Trying to get the pickups finished for my second build (http://sevenstring.org/threads/second-build-multi-scale-seven.288051/) which I should have finished by the end of this week. I have one more bobbin to wind and then I can wire them up and wax pot them.
> 
> View attachment 67851



Well done for battling through it.  It's great that you're back at being creative!


----------



## electriceye

Taylor said:


> Been dealing with some really bad depression the past few months that sapped any and all motivation to work on my projects. I am feeling better now, and am continuing work. I made a stand for my headphones out of some scrap flame maple and wenge from some of my builds. Putting a couple of coats of epoxy finish on it.



Good for you, Taylor. You’re not alone, brother. It’s a constant battle for me. I find that I feel better the more time I spend in my shop. Crank up the music and build. It’s great therapy.


----------



## Soya

I'm the complete opposite, working in the shop only makes me more depressed after all the mistakes I make.


----------



## Albake21

Soya said:


> I'm the complete opposite, working in the shop only makes me more depressed after all the mistakes I make.


Man as someone who is new to wood working and guitar building, nothing makes me more depressed then leaving the shop after hours of work only to have mistakes and backwards progress.


----------



## Soya

It's the fuckin worst. I built two guitars for myself and just finished up one for a friend, and I'll likely never build again.


----------



## Defyantly

Soya said:


> It's the fuckin worst. I built two guitars for myself and just finished up one for a friend, and I'll likely never build again.


Don't say that! Never give up never surrender!


----------



## DudeManBrother

Soya said:


> It's the fuckin worst. I built two guitars for myself and just finished up one for a friend, and I'll likely never build again.


I know that feeling haha. I have been working on a strandberg copy forever, and after so many mistakes I finally said screw it, set it on fire (very therapeutic) and made it “distressed”  I have no desire to do it again, unless I magically fall into a wood shop with all the actual tools needed to do it more precisely, and more easily.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I used to be that way, but I recently decide to build with really really cheap parts and wood just to practice and it has taken a lot of pressure off and made it much more fun and relaxing. When you're not trying to build your ULTIMATE IDEAL PERFECT GUITAR and just building something for fun and practice it's a huge load off the mind.

That's sort of what the budget Build Challenge thread I just started is about.


----------



## Soya

Well unfortunately as a machinist as my profession and hobby I kinda have to strive for perfection, and it's not something I can really turn off and build casually.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> Well unfortunately as a machinist as my profession and hobby I kinda have to strive for perfection, and it's not something I can really turn off and build casually.


I'm the same way, so I frame the build as "practice". The point is not to build a perfect instrument. It is to get reps in on the building techniques so I can build a perfect instrument later.


----------



## Albake21

Oh don't get me wrong, making mistakes absolutely makes me feel depressed. But on the other hand, nothing puts a bigger smile on my face than when I leave the shop with actual progress. I just have to know that I will learn from my mistakes and fix them on the next build. I just have to sleep it off and move on.


----------



## Soya

.


----------



## Soya

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I'm the same way, so I frame the build as "practice". The point is not to build a perfect instrument. It is to get reps in on the building techniques so I can build a perfect instrument later.



Well I'm not mentally strong enough for that.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

I like the catharsis of destroying/burning my failed builds, well except for the headless 8 I tried to make, I can't bring myself to destroy that one yet (plus my lazy ass hasn't made a template of the design yet).


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Perfection is the enemy of completion. The two are never to be found in the same build.


----------



## electriceye

Soya said:


> I'm the complete opposite, working in the shop only makes me more depressed after all the mistakes I make.



LOL! Yeah, I can also see that point. Some nights, I just have to walk out of the shop. I'm in the middle of two superstrat builds, and I screw up so much when it comes to building the neck. It's been a rough and exciting couple of weeks for me.


----------



## electriceye

DudeManBrother said:


> I know that feeling haha. I have been working on a strandberg copy forever, and after so many mistakes I finally said screw it, set it on fire (very therapeutic) and made it “distressed”  I have no desire to do it again, unless I magically fall into a wood shop with all the actual tools needed to do it more precisely, and more easily.
> 
> View attachment 67888



I actually came back in here today because I was just starting to think about building a Strandberg copy (it's probably a better idea if I finish up the 6 builds I have in progress, but, whatever). One question: Do you HAVE to havea zero fret on those? If so, why? 

Are there any sites dedicated to building headless guitars?


----------



## DudeManBrother

electriceye said:


> I actually came back in here today because I was just starting to think about building a Strandberg copy (it's probably a better idea if I finish up the 6 builds I have in progress, but, whatever). One question: Do you HAVE to havea zero fret on those? If so, why?
> 
> Are there any sites dedicated to building headless guitars?


No you don’t have to. You can use a traditional nut and just slot it, and shape it at the correct angle. The zero fret just makes it easy to slap a nut in without too much effort just to keep the strings aligned. 

I’m not aware of any sites dedicated to headless builds. I got the plans from Ola; before he started the production models. He gave permission to build his design as long as it was done at home (so you couldn’t take the plans to a luthier and have them build it for you). He had a blog a few years ago that went into his design philosophy. If it’s still up, that might be somewhat useful? I haven’t looked at it for a couple years so my memory on its contents are fuzzy.


----------



## electriceye

Soya said:


> It's the fuckin worst. I built two guitars for myself and just finished up one for a friend, and I'll likely never build again.



GET BACK IN THERE, DAMMIT!!!!!!


----------



## Soya




----------



## Taylor

Got the pickups (mostly) done and had to throw em in to see if they worked. To my GREAT relief they do work.






Still need to clean the tops of the bobbins good, wrap them in fabric tape, and get some foam underneath so I can adjust them.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Re: depression and building - I haven't made any sawdust for guitar builds iiiiiiiin 4 years I think? Maybe 3 at best. I'm in no way throwing in the towel. I haven't completed a guitar since like 2012 and my first ever electric is still in pieces after 6 years when I decided to I wanted to build a new neck for it. I'll still complete that eventually, but it does bum me out a lot and I find when I do start making mistakes it snowballs and I get discouraged.

I have this problem with almost every project I start: I set an arbitrary deadline for myself, which I often can't meet, and am disappointed in myself for missing it and lose motivation. My gf has had a few hard talks with me about not setting myself up for failure like this, whether it's redoing the floors in our home, painting rooms, cleaning out the garage, or doing a woodworking project, guitar or otherwise. The best way to look at it is that it's a hobby and there's no deadlines or consequences. You work on them when you can, and you finish 'em when you finish 'em.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Taylor said:


> Got the pickups (mostly) done and had to throw em in to see if they worked. To my GREAT relief they do work.
> Still need to clean the tops of the bobbins good, wrap them in fabric tape, and get some foam underneath so I can adjust them.


Awesome blue dye!


----------



## Albake21

BlackMastodon said:


> The best way to look at it is that it's a hobby and there's no deadlines or consequences. You work on them when you can, and you finish 'em when you finish 'em.


This is the best way to look at things like this. It's definitely the way I looked at my first build. I absolutely can't set a deadline.

To be honest, one of the biggest motivations for me, is you guys! It sounds super corny, but it really is the biggest motivation for me. I hope that my threads can do the same. Carry it on to others as they have for me.


----------



## Taylor

Albake21 said:


> To be honest, one of the biggest motivations for me, is you guys! It sounds super corny, but it really is the biggest motivation for me. I hope that my threads can do the same. Carry it on to others as they have for me.




I'm the same way. This community is pretty great!

Oh, and imminent NGD on the guitar above. Waiting for the finish on my cavity cover to set, also waiting for some good weather to take some photos.


----------



## HaMMerHeD

This thread is not good for me. I keep looking and wanting to build a guitar. Which i don't play. But then...might be a good motivation to learn.


----------



## KR250

Just being in the shop is therapy for me. I try to set really small goals and think through what I want to accomplish per session keeping in mind the overall outline of steps that need to happen. The small incremental steps are what keep me going. Sometimes I get on a roll for a whole week, and other times a lot of time goes by....just like now... with not much progress. Such is life though.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

i try not to be too hard on myself when it comes to building. I've come to realize that luthiery/woodworking is like life, nothing ever goes according to plan, so just roll with the punches and try to adapt.


----------



## Lemonbaby

HaMMerHeD said:


> This thread is not good for me. I keep looking and wanting to build a guitar. Which i don't play. But then...might be a good motivation to learn.


Leo didn't play guitar - didn't stop him from building...


----------



## HaMMerHeD

So I've been thinking about this...




Neck-through 3-piece maple, mac ebony fretboard (26 frets), and ash body. matte black. Nazgul pup w/volume, 48mm nut, hipshot hardware of course.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Finishing up some steps for my new back door before I start my summer budget build.


----------



## KR250

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Finishing up some steps for my new back door before I start my summer budget build.



Nice. My weekend is also taken up by finishing up stairs for a deck project. All the guitar wood is staring me down each time I go into the shop for tools. What are you going to finish them with?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KR250 said:


> Nice. My weekend is also taken up by finishing up stairs for a deck project. All the guitar wood is staring me down each time I go into the shop for tools. What are you going to finish them with?


Nothing. They're green-treated. Decking boards are those plastic composite ones so they don't need a finish either.


----------



## IGC

A new project as of yesterday. Thinking about a 2019 build challenge thread, but I don't know yet. I need some arm twisting.

Ash body, maple/wenge neck, zebra wood or maple fretboard, maple top.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

IGC said:


> Thinking about a 2019 build challenge thread, but I don't know yet. I need some arm twisting.



Do it


----------



## IGC

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Do it




Ok cool, 5 more "do its" and it's happening!


----------



## MoonJelly

DO IT
DO IT
DO IT 
DO IT
DO IT

there you have it.


----------



## IGC

MoonJelly said:


> DO IT
> DO IT
> DO IT
> DO IT
> DO IT
> 
> there you have it.



Ok cool, I'm really considering it now, thanks!


----------



## dmlinger

Do it


----------



## DickyTripleD

IGC said:


> Ok cool, 5 more "do its" and it's happening!



It, do.


----------



## Albake21

You better do it!


----------



## KR250

Do it!


----------



## Deegatron

YOUR COMPETITION IS UNWELCOME!!!!!!

just kidding... do it!


----------



## morgdav




----------



## LiveOVErdrive

My "main guitar" is a MIJ Ibanez rg470 from the late 90s that I did some restoration to before. It has been laid up for months now because I broke a string on the Floyd and wanted to do some work on it before stringing it up again.

Well I finally did the work.

- Blocked the Floyd (never done this. I love it)
- Swapped the studs for the ones that came with the Floyd I installed. The old ones were loose.
- Swapped the middle single coil for a quarter pound strat pickup. Wanted to try one of these forever, and I'm in love with middle singles lately (because of my damn stratocaster I bring to my lessons)
- chiseled the Floyd route a bit so the new Floyd I added months ago fits right.
- polished the frets and fretboard on my buffing wheel (Holy mirror shine, batman)
- oiled the fretboard
- strung it up







This thing friggin rips now. I love it.
Need to switch the polarity on the middle pickup as it is out of phase with the hums, so positions 2 and 4 are basically useless. 
Need to balance the pickup heights a bit. They don't quite all work together right now. Air Zone Bridge, quarter pound middle, paf pro neck.

Four types of pole pieces on one guitar


----------



## Lemonbaby

@morgdav Lovely piece of walnut!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

LiveOVErdrive said:


> My "main guitar" is a MIJ Ibanez rg470 from the late 90s that I did some restoration to before. It has been laid up for months now because I broke a string on the Floyd and wanted to do some work on it before stringing it up again.
> 
> Well I finally did the work.
> 
> - Blocked the Floyd (never done this. I love it)
> - Swapped the studs for the ones that came with the Floyd I installed. The old ones were loose.
> - Swapped the middle single coil for a quarter pound strat pickup. Wanted to try one of these forever, and I'm in love with middle singles lately (because of my damn stratocaster I bring to my lessons)
> - chiseled the Floyd route a bit so the new Floyd I added months ago fits right.
> - polished the frets and fretboard on my buffing wheel (Holy mirror shine, batman)
> - oiled the fretboard
> - strung it up
> 
> View attachment 69237
> 
> 
> View attachment 69236
> 
> 
> This thing friggin rips now. I love it.
> Need to switch the polarity on the middle pickup as it is out of phase with the hums, so positions 2 and 4 are basically useless.
> Need to balance the pickup heights a bit. They don't quite all work together right now. Air Zone Bridge, quarter pound middle, paf pro neck.
> 
> Four types of pole pieces on one guitar


This Floyd special is frustrating me though. My high e string keeps slipping out of the saddle. Tried sanding the clamp block a bit. Ordered some titanium blocks. Maybe those will help. If not I'll swap to an OFR and use the titanium blocks on that.


----------



## Deegatron

LiveOVErdrive said:


> This Floyd special is frustrating me though. My high e string keeps slipping out of the saddle. Tried sanding the clamp block a bit. Ordered some titanium blocks. Maybe those will help. If not I'll swap to an OFR and use the titanium blocks on that.


perhaps the saddle has a dent in it as opposed to the clamp block. try swapping the high E and low E saddles and see if that fixes your problem.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Deegatron said:


> perhaps the saddle has a dent in it as opposed to the clamp block. try swapping the high E and low E saddles and see if that fixes your problem.


That's a great idea. I'll give it a shot.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Just took out the chassis of my 6505+ 112 combo to do the effects loop mod, and it turns out the previous owner already did it! 




Neat.


----------



## MoonJelly

My assistant (dad) and I have been working up some necks this week. 











Plus this body got all its cavities routed.





When I get to about 800 grit on a fingerboard, I get zen.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

LiveOVErdrive said:


> This Floyd special is frustrating me though. My high e string keeps slipping out of the saddle. Tried sanding the clamp block a bit. Ordered some titanium blocks. Maybe those will help. If not I'll swap to an OFR and use the titanium blocks on that.


I tried deegatron's advice but I've been overzealous with my lock tightening and it seems I've stripped the lock on my Floyd special. D'oh! 

It's just as well. That thing was driving me crazy. I swapped it out for an old EVH Ping Floyd I bought off my teacher a while back for a different project. I guess I'll have to buy another one. 




First impression is this thing seems really well made. Might have to stock up on some of the GFS ones, since they are supposedly the same thing.


----------



## MaxOfMetal

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I tried deegatron's advice but I've been overzealous with my lock tightening and it seems I've stripped the lock on my Floyd special. D'oh!
> 
> It's just as well. That thing was driving me crazy. I swapped it out for an old EVH Ping Floyd I bought off my teacher a while back for a different project. I guess I'll have to buy another one.
> 
> View attachment 69800
> 
> 
> First impression is this thing seems really well made. Might have to stock up on some of the GFS ones, since they are supposedly the same thing.



Try to find some Takeuchi TRS-PRO units. I've seen them go for as little as $20 and they're damn solid.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Gluing up the headshell for a 6505+112 head conversion.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Continuing my 6505 makeover with some silverface style facelifting.


----------



## HUGH JAYNUS

Just finished and installed a new pickguard for my Ibanez UV70P. Rusted steel. 













2C0AA44B-5771-4B77-B5C2-A5A2068FDC14



__ HUGH JAYNUS
__ Jun 18, 2019


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Finished my 6505+ combo-to-head conversion! 

Posting it here too because I'm really proud of it and want to show off.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Trying to decide between birdseye/burl maple, or just going with classic flame maple for my boogie faceplate. The flame is a placeholder piece, the real piece is more figured.


----------



## Seabeast2000

flame


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Flame, dyed black.


----------



## failsafe




----------



## youngthrasher9

While I’m waiting a very pointy new addition to the family, I dropped a D-Activator into my first guitar- a Silvertone strat copy. Fun fact- as a wee lad I was taking the infinitely thick finish off with a heat gun and caught the body on fire. Repeatedly. 

The tuners and bridge on this guy suck, eventually I’ll swap em out. For now- a very annoy process of setup/intonation.


----------



## MoonJelly

After a verrrry long siesta, I'm back in the shed. The necks are getting frets, and one got bolted up. I haven't actually done a bolt-neck in a long time - feels good man.


----------



## electriceye

True to (my) form, I started another build without finishing others, but I was just too eager to glue up some over-sized body blanks the past weekend. This marks my first (of many) Explorer-type builds. I have a few Vs in the pipeline, but they're just not fun to play sitting down, so EXPs are a better path. I think I'm going with a highly-figured maple neck on this one, but will cross that bridge later. Speaking of bridges, not sure which one this will have, either.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

The failed attempts.




The final version of the faceplate for my mk3. @LiveOVErdrive was right, trans black was the way to go.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Finally got my tele mutt modded to a level I like.








Might do regular boring old black handles, this seems wayy too busy




some other knife kits I finished up


----------



## Spicypickles

That Damascus steel one on the left looks sweet.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

getting closer to finishing my baritone explorer build


----------



## failsafe

Almost done with scratch build #2. The only thing I lack now is a working bridge pickup. As far as I can tell, it was DOA. The neck pickup sounds great though. She plays great!


----------



## gunch

Got the NK back together, ordered a rotary tool and some cloth wheels and green compound and it is LEGIT for getting mirror frets, bending is like nothing now


----------



## electriceye

gunch said:


> Got the NK back together, ordered a rotary tool and some cloth wheels and green compound and it is LEGIT for getting mirror frets, bending is like nothing now
> View attachment 74851



What stain is that?? I had a nightmare of a time trying to get pink done on a gorgeous quilt top build that I shelved. I had to sand it down so many times because of reactions with the stain that it’s now too damn thin.


----------



## gunch

I couldn't tell you it's whatever NK uses


----------



## KnightBrolaire

electriceye said:


> What stain is that?? I had a nightmare of a time trying to get pink done on a gorgeous quilt top build that I shelved. I had to sand it down so many times because of reactions with the stain that it’s now too damn thin.


were you using aniline dyes or water based or oilbased?


----------



## HaMMerHeD

Probably transtint magenta. I think Crimson's shop also has that color.


----------



## electriceye

KnightBrolaire said:


> were you using aniline dyes or water based or oilbased?



I had issues with both alcohol and water-based. But, I probably need to try some different brands. It just seems very difficult to find hot pink anywhere.


----------



## Randy

These days I mix pretty much all of my own dyes from Keda because the price is right, you can make any color under the sun and their YT channel always includes the recipes


----------



## KnightBrolaire

electriceye said:


> I had issues with both alcohol and water-based. But, I probably need to try some different brands. It just seems very difficult to find hot pink anywhere.


I know pondman used rit fabric dyes for one of his hot pink builds. I never had very good luck with it though.


----------



## MikeNeal

i second keda dyes


----------



## MoonJelly

My wife recently complained that she can't ever find our cutting board (a certain someone with dementia lives with us and they keep moving it). Queue heavy duty replacement that will be harder to lose.

Padauk, Bocote, and pinstriped Pau Ferro.











And yeah, it did cross my mind it's just the right size for a guitar body.


----------



## Omzig

MoonJelly said:


> My wife recently complained that she can't ever find our cutting board (a certain someone with dementia lives with us and they keep moving it). Queue heavy duty replacement that will be harder to lose.
> 
> Padauk, Bocote, and pinstriped Pau Ferro.
> 
> And yeah, it did cross my mind it's just the right size for a guitar body.



Carl thompson called  & yep that's far to cool to waste on a chopping board IMO


----------



## MoonJelly

Omzig said:


> Carl thompson called  & yep that's far to cool to waste on a chopping board IMO


Well that maybe that will be its second life. Here's a bit more progress.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Posted already in recording studio but I have been goon from the luthiery board for ages so here we go. 

I built an 8u rack for my studio desk yesterday.











Can't wait to build some outboard gear to fill up the rest.


----------



## Randy

Non-guitar related but my mom's getting a tortilla press for Christmas, don't tell her 

Hard maple and cherry, piece in the back is phili mahogany. Handle and feet were on the CNC, laser for the monogram, everything else the old fashioned way. Finished with beeswax.


----------



## Solodini

Randy said:


> Non-guitar related but my mom's getting a tortilla press for Christmas, don't tell her




Nice! Great gift!


----------



## Soya

Sanding is for the weak.


----------



## Lemonbaby

You got a serious workshop!


----------



## IGC

Soya said:


> Sanding is for the weak.
> View attachment 76274



Nice t-slot covers


----------



## BlackMastodon

Been a while since Ive posted and I don't have any guitar related builds going on yet, so I'll post some of the furniture and the canoe paddles I've been making for the last couple of years here.

Canoe paddles that my brother and I have been working on for my parents that I wanted to finish 2 years ago. Life gets in the way, though. :\
Laminated cherry, padauk, maple, padauk, cherry. The cherry was flat grain so we had to get creative and biscuit join them to the shaft without using a biscuit joiner. They're currently in my basement awaiting more shaping for the handles and more carving but overall quite happy with how they turned out. May have my parents sign the handles before applying a waterproof finish to them.


















Sorry for giant pictures, don't think imgur can resize them and I'm too lazy to do it before posting.


----------



## BlackMastodon

And here's where all my build time has been going towards lately: building a coffee station with counter and storage for our kitchen to. Not gonna bother having doors on it but would love to put flat iron stock on the edges of the plywood, even if there was a fake alternative that looked like raw iron to give it that rustic look everyone is hard for lately. This will house our microwave and the shelves on the side are gonna be for shoes since this is next to our back door. Butcher top counter top from home depot will get cut down to size when the weather is agreeable and then it should be all ready to go in the kitchen.

Don't mind my dingy basement pics.










And here we have the butcher block desk tops I commissioned from my local wood supplier/shop because I don't have the patience or equipment to make laminated pieces this big. They're made of poplar but we'll stain them dark, get some table legs for the ends and a file cabinet to support in the middle, then have one long desk in our office for both mine and my gf's work stations and computers.






And here's progress on my TV shelf/entertainment unit made of MDF. Gonna paint it some kind of chalk paint, maybe green or grey, with natural wood slats on the back (which you can see on their own off to the left in the previous picture) to mount it to the wall. Been 2.5 fucking years of having my router on the floor below my TV and not being able to use a soundbar my gf got for us 3 Xmases ago so it's long overdue.


----------



## Taylor

Getting the first coats of Danish oil on the body of my X shape.


----------



## SD83

After more than one year of no progress at all due to work and all, I'm making steady progress with my new 4 string bass these days. A few minor flaws and there is still a lot of work to do (mainly sanding, purpleheart is stupidly hard, some cleaning up of the cavities, inlay, frets, obviously finish & electronics), but so far, I really like it


----------



## Solodini

That looks great, good work!


----------



## electriceye

Doing a new build for a friend who sings in a local cover band. I've made more progress on this build in a week and a half than I ever have. I just love the way it looks. I ever ordered more tops from the same vendor. Black limba body, quilted redwood top, quilted sapele neck, quilt maple board, turquoise inlays. Gonna arm it with Seymour mini-humbuckers and a Hipshot bridge. Also applying cream binding. Gluing up the board today and hopefully routing for the neck pocket as well.


----------



## Omzig

Some ppl here my remember this from a year or 2 back 

Definished my Refinished HM strat 






I wasn't really happy with the over all finish of the colour coat as i think i put way to much paint on it and got some sink back where id filled the middle pup route (i did love the neon pink though) 

Atm im not sure if i'll leave it like this or repaint it when the weather gets better.


----------



## Solodini

electriceye said:


> Doing a new build for a friend who sings in a local cover band. I've made more progress on this build in a week and a half than I ever have. I just love the way it looks. I ever ordered more tops from the same vendor. Black limba body, quilted redwood top, quilted sapele neck, quilt maple board, turquoise inlays. Gonna arm it with Seymour mini-humbuckers and a Hipshot bridge. Also applying cream binding. Gluing up the board today and hopefully routing for the neck pocket as well.
> View attachment 77258
> View attachment 77259
> View attachment 77260
> View attachment 77261




Oooft! Nice work!


----------



## Taylor

electriceye said:


> Doing a new build for a friend



Hey, it's me, ur friend...


----------



## electriceye

Taylor said:


> Hey, it's me, ur friend...



Heh. Hey, when you're a new builder, you do a lot of shit for free, right? She plays out regularly, so I consider it free publicity (when it's done, of course). 

It won't be my last freebie, so you never know!


----------



## electriceye

Here's a little more progress on the above build.


----------



## Solodini

Ooft!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I can't believe that's what that wood looks like WITHOUT a finish. Amazing.


----------



## BlackMastodon

electriceye said:


> Heh. Hey, when you're a new builder, you do a lot of shit for free, right? She plays out regularly, so I consider it free publicity (when it's done, of course).
> 
> It won't be my last freebie, so you never know!


Well now I definitely wanna be your friend!

Seriously, though, this is an awesome thing you're doing for her, and the build is looking excellent. Great choice of woods!


----------



## electriceye

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I can't believe that's what that wood looks like WITHOUT a finish. Amazing.



Well, that’s wiped down with naphtha, so it’s showing what it will look like when finished.


----------



## Taylor

Doesn't exactly fit on my cluttered workbench, but getting an enclosure built for a giant day gecko pair I plan on getting. Going to do a full bioactive setup with live plants and all that.





Here's an example of a giant day gecko I googled, in case anyone was wondering what they look like.


----------



## High Plains Drifter




----------



## BlackMastodon

Throw some BKP's in there and maybe a graphtech nut and I think she'll really pur.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Sorry to double post, but didn't want to sully my S-tier joke above with my mediocre skilz, and I am a wordy bastard.

So I was reminded that I hate 2 things:
1) Imgur's site and the fact I can't upload pictures to existing albums (if they even have albums), and
2) S A N D I N G

I got the counter top stained how I like it, think I even got most of the sanding scuffs out, then I brushed a coat of Minwax poly on and it turned out like complete shit. So many little dots and bubbles popped up and it looked terrible, so as I was sanding it down smooth, I basically sanded through the layer of clear anyway but hey, at least now the grain is sealed!







Stained it again, ready for Varathane brush on poly, this one being an outdoor waterproof one. I used a foam brush for this one and it turned out much smoother, but still had some pockmarks, possibly due to dust coming from my basement rafters.






Then here's where I went Advanced Stupid and forgot that sanding across the grain is the fucking worst idea I could've possibly had, but hey, I read a guide on sanding poly flat and thought I was smrt. Sanding across the grain inevitably went through the clear and scratched the wood and looked horrible, so I spent a few days sanding It all down fresh with 220 on a palm sander, followed by 320 with my random orbital and got it down to this (after I cleaned the dust off with paint thinner):






So once I can move my arms again, I'm gonna hit it again with 220 sandpaper on a block to get it back to the colour I originally had, which I really liked, then I'm gonna buy like 4 cheap shower curtains or plastic wrap so I can have a makeshift dust-free finishing booth in my basement, and then I'm gonna try to do a couple layers of the 2nd poly before I lightly sand with 320 or 400 to get any bubbles/bumps out before I add more layers.

This is giving me PTSD of when I was trying to do the finish on my last guitar body which was mostly natural and then an oil finish. This is seriously making me reconsider my idea to sand down and refinish that body with a harder finish to protect it from sun-fade.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

BlackMastodon said:


> Sorry to double post, but didn't want to sully my S-tier joke above with my mediocre skilz, and I am a wordy bastard.
> 
> So I was reminded that I hate 2 things:
> 1) Imgur's site and the fact I can't upload pictures to existing albums (if they even have albums), and
> 2) S A N D I N G
> 
> I got the counter top stained how I like it, think I even got most of the sanding scuffs out, then I brushed a coat of Minwax poly on and it turned out like complete shit. So many little dots and bubbles popped up and it looked terrible, so as I was sanding it down smooth, I basically sanded through the layer of clear anyway but hey, at least now the grain is sealed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stained it again, ready for Varathane brush on poly, this one being and outdoor waterproof one. I used foam brushes for this one and it turned out much smoother, but still had some pockmarks, possibly due to dust coming from my basement rafters.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then here's where I went Advanced Stupid and forgot that sanding across the grain is the fucking worst idea I could've possibly had, but hey, I read a guide on sanding poly flat and thought I was smrt. Sanding across the grain inevitably went through the clear and scratched the wood and looked horrible, so I spent a few days sanding It all down fresh with 220 on a palm sander, followed by 320 with my random orbital and got it down to this (after I cleaned the dust off with paint thinner):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So once I can move my arms again, I'm gonna hit it again with 220 sandpaper on a block to get it back to the colour I originally had, which I really liked, then I'm gonna buy like 4 cheap shower curtains or plastic wrap so I can have a makeshift dust-free finishing booth in my basement, and then I'm gonna try to do a couple layers of the 2nd poly before I lightly sand with 320 or 400 to get any bubbles/bumps out before I add more layers.
> 
> This is giving me PTSD of when I was trying to do the finish on my last guitar body which was mostly natural and then an oil finish. This is seriously making me reconsider my idea to sand down and refinish that body with a harder finish to protect it from sun-fade.


should have just put a thin layer of epoxy over it. Poly is a huge pain in the ass if you have to brush or wipe it on.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Considered that too but I'm still gonna have to curtain off the area to keep dust out.


----------



## DudeManBrother

I picked up a busted Fender 75 Combo amp a few days ago. It apparently stopped working while ago, and didn’t work great before that. 
This is after I rebuilt the power tube sockets, the switching, and AC line voltage and heater circuits:


Because the thing was so thrashed I decided to gut all the unnecessary components and build a single high gain channel. This is somewhere along the line of the new stripped down circuit. I’m horrible with documenting progress 


I hacked up the combo shell with a sawzall and used the parts to make a crude headshell. A chunk of burnt wood for the grille completed the look nicely. 


I made a sloppy quick jam at one of the low volume “modern” tones I get with it. I can get hair metal to doom out of this little guy so far. I’m sure I’ll keep messing with the circuit, but for now it’s got plenty of gain, a wide variety of high gain tones, and is pretty damn quiet for 40 year old capacitors. It’s been a fun couple days working on this. 
https://www.bitchute.com/video/SqQw1q7HTbta/


----------



## RBadel

Currently my 7 string is at the workbench at Claas Guitars.

Will be a Leviathan shape with a Ash body and headstock, Poplar Burl top and wenge neck 
Will be throwing some Ragnaroks in it


----------



## RBadel

Walterson said:


> Thanks! That first build was my 10th...  maybe you overlooked those:
> 
> http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/st...-string-multiscale-many-pics.html#post3297251
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Thats right. They are inspired by Rick..
> 
> 
> 
> Man you are busy.... thanks for joining! I would love to see more of your work. Your build threads on the "Ultimate Guitar" Forum teached me a lot!



I love the fact that you took your inspiration from Mr. Toone! 

Looks like some really good work you put in there. Keep it on. I will be keeping an eye on work in your furture


----------



## Taylor

In case anyone was wondering, here's how the gecko tank turned out. Still need to pick up a panel of acrylic for the door/viewing window, also need to pick up the geckos themselves. For now I'll wait a few weeks to let the plants establish in their new home.


----------



## jbnuk

Just got an Epiphone SG G-400 Made In Korea (2004); plan is to remove both pickups and install a SD JB in the bridge, using new volume pot and wiring...make it a single pickup Epi. Very simple but will be my 1st time modding


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Some 8 years ago I tried to file the overhangs off the keys on a cheap m-audio keyboard. I was obsessed with Hammond organs at the time and wanted "waterfall" keys on a budget. It didn't turn out well and I gave up before finishing. 

Today on a whim I braced them and took a router with a round over bit to them. 




They don't play like waterfall keys but at least they look halfway decent again. Used to have rough fronts from a coarse bastard file.


----------



## jbnuk

jbnuk said:


> Just got an Epiphone SG G-400 Made In Korea (2004); plan is to remove both pickups and install a SD JB in the bridge, using new volume pot and wiring...make it a single pickup Epi. Very simple but will be my 1st time modding



Done. Here she is:


----------



## SD83

This somehow appeared in the trunk of my car after I went running in the nearby woods. A gift from the Ents or something like that, I don't know  Might be useless, might be beautiful... it is VERY rotten, I highly doubt I'll end up with enough material for any kind of top, but free stuff is free, and with everything on lockdown, I do have some time to kill.


----------



## MoonJelly

Well the workbench has been nearly silent. Yesterday the oven literally blew up thanks to a short in the heating element, which cascaded back behind the firewall. If the breaker didn't trip it might've burned the house down. 

So that was terrifying, but good side is there was no traffic as I drove to BrandsMart and brought this combo deal home.






PSA ovens are a cinch to install, but this style of microwave is significantly more annoying.


----------



## Deegatron

MoonJelly, Im so jealous right now. we need a new oven so badly. mine makes weird noises when we use the burners and the oven undercooks everything.... It's such a god damn lemon.


----------



## ChrispyFinch

I decided to revisit this 5yr old build. I stopped because of some bad tear out that admittedly gave me some depression and have been using all this time to figure out how to fix it.
So I've just routed some cavities, made the control cover, drilled a wire hole, and patched the bad tear out with a new wedge.

My full plan to hide the mistakes:

take 1 mm off the silhouette with drum sander
bind over some of the patched tear out.
carve the back contours and use a large round over (think mayones back)
dark burst the back to hide even more of the tear out patch

The stuff im not sure about:

flat top, radius top, sloped carve?
staining the top?
final finish (oil, poly, etc)?
binding the neck/headstock?

Im definitely not a quick builder, this is my first anyways so im taking my time.
Pics:
This was after i chiseled out a wedge where the tear out was


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Beautiful top. And dog.


----------



## Omzig

Nice patching,now just stick the strap button over it and you'll never even know its there  + mad skill on getting that cavitiy cover to fit without CNC lol


----------



## SD83

SD83 said:


> Might be useless, might be beautiful... /QUOTE]


Not exactly a workbench, but it might actually be large enough for (most of) a top. Also a smaller bit that might be good for 2 or more headstocks. Bit of stuff to fill, but other than that, I really like the way it looks. Might be because I did never actually see a bigger piece of burl in person.


----------



## IGC

SD83 said:


> This somehow appeared in the trunk of my car after I went running in the nearby woods. A gift from the Ents or something like that, I don't know  Might be useless, might be beautiful... it is VERY rotten, I highly doubt I'll end up with enough material for any kind of top, but free stuff is free, and with everything on lockdown, I do have some time to kill.
> View attachment 78571



Rick Toone might be interested, send him a pic.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Not a guitar, but I caught the diy mechanical keyboard bug so I'm planning a custom build in fusion 360 to mill with my cnc machine. Figure it'll be comfy and cool to use at work. 

... When I eventually start working at the office again.


----------



## GraemeH

Since the world has lost its mind because of a bit of a sniffle going around and I'm working from home, I've been in the back room workshop doing something a bit different for my third build - not mounting the neck on the body wood directly, but stand-off-ing it with speaker spikes counter-sunk into the neck and the pocket, like you'd use for mounting hi-fi speakers on stands/the ground.




No idea what effect it's going to have - might be garbage but these early builds are so rough anyway it's not like I'm building a guitar to be my #1 for life or anything.


----------



## pott

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Not a guitar, but I caught the diy mechanical keyboard bug so I'm planning a custom build in fusion 360 to mill with my cnc machine. Figure it'll be comfy and cool to use at work.
> 
> ... When I eventually start working at the office again.
> View attachment 78763
> View attachment 78764



Nice! You're sticking with full ortho layout, rather than column stagger? 

I love my ortho boards (Pair of RGBKB Sols, an Iris, a Preonic). I built an Iris a few days ago to try column stagger, but within less than an hour of finishing it, I zapped it with static and fried one half (thankfully just the RGB LEDs, but it turned me off using Split boards at home. They're a lot more sensitive to static).


----------



## Solodini

ChrispyFinch said:


> This was after i chiseled out a wedge where the tear out was
> View attachment 78595
> View attachment 78596
> View attachment 78597
> View attachment 78598
> View attachment 78599
> View attachment 78600



Liking the ViK stylings of the carves you have planned out.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

pott said:


> Nice! You're sticking with full ortho layout, rather than column stagger?
> 
> I love my ortho boards (Pair of RGBKB Sols, an Iris, a Preonic). I built an Iris a few days ago to try column stagger, but within less than an hour of finishing it, I zapped it with static and fried one half (thankfully just the RGB LEDs, but it turned me off using Split boards at home. They're a lot more sensitive to static).



I don't know all the terms yet but yes full ortho. I assume column stagger adjusts the column heights to compensate finger length? I've thought about that but I'm leaning this way now because it is simpler and (maybe more importantly) I really like the look of the perfect grid.


----------



## pott

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I don't know all the terms yet but yes full ortho. I assume column stagger adjusts the column heights to compensate finger length? I've thought about that but I'm leaning this way now because it is simpler and (maybe more importantly) I really like the look of the perfect grid.



Exactly  Like the Ergodox or the aforementioned keeb.io Iris. 
I really like my ortho boards and comfort isn't an issue for me there; cramped-layouts do trigger my carpal, which is why I favor Split keyboards personally.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

pott said:


> Exactly  Like the Ergodox or the aforementioned keeb.io Iris.
> I really like my ortho boards and comfort isn't an issue for me there; cramped-layouts do trigger my carpal, which is why I favor Split keyboards personally.



I also planned on that originally but I didn't want to mess with the extra cabling for my first build. And I got the idea of a single board looking cool in my head and.... Here we are.


----------



## pott

Few folks ever go as far as designing the whole damn thing themselves; epic stuff!


----------



## BlackMastodon

Finished up my furniture builds and am mostly satisfied wit the results. I'll at least be able to live with them for a while. (Trying to use Google Photos to post pics so let me know if these work)

Made a Dexter inspired finishing area in my basement to keep dust out that worked rather well. The only thing that made it into the finish was cat hair that was on my clothes or my own hair falling in, which resulted in me doing a couple of coats of finish in my underwear. 

















After the last few thin coats I wet sanded with 400-600-800-1000-1500-2000 grit sandpapers and finally used a random orbital sander with a buffing pad and some carnuba wax to buff it. It resulted in...very mediocre results. Plenty of sanding swirl marks that I couldn't buff out but I was so exhausted I just didn't give a shit anymore, and they're only obvious in the sun. I ended up sanding through a couple spots, of course, but I fixed those up by applying a very thin layer of finish using a couple of lint free cloths, one wrapped inside the other (think French polish). 











You can see a spot where I sanded through the finish in the front left side here and along the edges, took this picture to test it out and considered leaving it, but after looking at it for a couple days I knew it would drive me nuts so that's when I decided to add a few more thin coats of the finish.











After all was said and done, but before I filled it with a microwave and baskets of other kitchen shit:


----------



## BlackMastodon

Also finished up the entertainment unit over the last couple of weeks of being quarantined.

I didn't take a pic, but before applying spray paint I watered down some white interior ceiling paint and painted all the MDF so I had a decent base to work with. Good thing I did that, too, because the Rustoleum chalk white spray paint I used kinda sucked and would've needed about 12 cans to get a decent solid finish on it, so I won't be using that line of paint again most likely. After the first can of chalk white spray paint:
















It says to keep the can about 10-12" away while spraying, which I'd say is pretty standard for spray cans, but the coverage was absolute shit when I did it that way so I had to keep the can about 4-6" away while spraying.

All in all it turned out okay. The matte clear coat from the same Rustoleum chalk spray was absolutely garbage and I was worried it would ruin the whole thing. Half way through the spray turned to a spittle as it was getting clogged so I had to put the cap in paint thinner for about a half hour to finish app. This happened twice before I was finished. I only got enough spray to cover the edges and the surfaces where I'd be putting stuff, but I'm glad I didn't try to mess around with another can.

I put a thin line of glue along the edges and screwed the back pieces of wood into the main body. I was expecting to clamp the pieces but turned out to be unnecessary since the screws held tight enough.






My living room wall before (taken about a year ago):






And after (also fixedmy crooked-ass TV):






Bolted it to the studs with some heavy lag bolts, the same ones that are holding up the TV, and it's working great. Now, after 3.5 years, I can finally pick up my router from my floor.


----------



## High Plains Drifter

You're like me... that pic of the counter-top with the finishing flaw was quite unsettling lol. I absolutely would've done exactly what you did. Even if no one else notices things like that, YOU know it's there and it just bugs you every time you look at it. I hate my compulsive traits sometimes, but much of the time it's worth ( to me) taking the extra effort to go back in and fix the issue. Yeah... the flat-screen bothered me too lol. Nice work, man!


----------



## BlackMastodon

Thanks dude! I can ignore those little things for a while but every now and then while watching TV I tilt my head a little in the opposite way and realize I was doing it to be level with the TV, then I just die a little inside.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

not guitar related, but I'm doing some mockups for some knife builds. Haven't decided on handle options yet. Using brass rods so prob not the green. woods are padauk and lacewood if you're wondering.


----------



## Taylor

Did you forge the Damascus yourself, or did you buy the billets? They look great!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Taylor said:


> Did you forge the Damascus yourself, or did you buy the bullets? They look great!


bought em off ebay. I'm too chickenshit to commit to making my own knives from total scratch


----------



## Taylor

If it looks silly but it works, is it really silly?


----------



## ChAoZ

Making my first lefty


----------



## GraemeH

Cutting the obscenely large AllParts 4.33mm x 2.59mm Ultra fret-wire for a 34"-37" bass. My cutters won't even get through most of the time - having to use a cutting disc on a rotary tool to cut through. For comparison, something like Jescar 58118 or Dunlop 6000 is only 3.00mm x 1.47mm. It's at the point where I'm actually going to have to shim the Tusq XL nut I'll be cutting for this...


----------



## Deegatron

GraemeH said:


> Cutting the obscenely large AllParts 4.33mm x 2.59mm Ultra fret-wire for a 34"-37" bass. My cutters won't even get through most of the time - having to use a cutting disc on a rotary tool to cut through. For comparison, something like Jescar 58118 or Dunlop 6000 is only 3.00mm x 1.47mm. It's at the point where I'm actually going to have to shim the Tusq XL nut I'll be cutting for this...
> 
> View attachment 79495



That looks absolutely savage! You'd almost want to see a bigger tang on those frets to ensure they stay put. Are you having issues getting the wire to sit flat once pressed in? the wider the wire and the more angled the fret slot the more I would expect this to be an issue, looks to me like you've got a worst case scenario going on there....

By the way, is that fretboard inlaid into the neck blank or is that binding?


----------



## GraemeH

Deegatron said:


> That looks absolutely savage! You'd almost want to see a bigger tang on those frets to ensure they stay put. Are you having issues getting the wire to sit flat once pressed in? the wider the wire and the more angled the fret slot the more I would expect this to be an issue, looks to me like you've got a worst case scenario going on there....
> 
> By the way, is that fretboard inlaid into the neck blank or is that binding?



Looks like the tang is 0.5mm, which isn't any bigger than the 0.02" on Jescar 57110/58118, but it's been holding ok so far. After I hammer them in, I run the craft knife/scalpel along the seated edge and make sure it won't go under, so they seem to be pretty flat. It's slightly complicated by the fact that I don't have a tang cutter, so I have to grind off a few millimeters of the tang on each side (grinding stone on a rotary tool) to go over the binding - this is the first build I've done the "hidden tang" thing. I should probably start using a tiny bit of superglue on each end, heh.

It's binding, rather than inlaid, I've done this on builds 2, 3 and now 4, since I always have enough offcuts of neck/ banks left for it. On 2 and 3 I glued the full width fretboards onto the necks then ran a router down each side to get rid of a few mil, then glued on the binding, then cut the slots through it all. But this time I planed the edges of the fretboard, cut the slots, then glued the 4mm binding on before gluing the whole thing onto the neck. Still learning the best technique and order of operations... Seeing how "floppy" the fretboard was after the fret slots are cut (even though it's ebony), I think having solid uncut binding might be a good idea just to add extra rigidity? (or inlaying it into the neck, as you say).

Here's build 2, 3 and 4 that do the binding (sloppily)


----------



## BlackMastodon

A week ago I finished spraying the 3rd and final coat of satin clear on my desk tops and I finished the extra drawer/spacer for the tops to rest on the file cabinet. This time I used Watco clear spray and it was 10x better than the Rustoleum shit I used on the media unit. I bought 3 more cans just to have, and now I'm thinking I'm gonna redo that coffee station top with it when I get a free couple of days. More sanding!







Here are the desk tops. I got my local wood shop/supplier to laminate and plane poplar into a butcher block style. Initially I was going to stain them but the gf liked the natural look and then after adding the clear coat, any of the green turned more olive and a bit brown and I'm so glad we left it alone.











I let them stand and cure for a week and then on Sunday I assembled them with the legs and file cabinet. Don't have pictures of the drawer I made but it isn't too impressive. I had a set of soft close drawer slides laying around and some nice plywood left over from the coffee station, so I just cut those to size and slapped them together so that the file cabinet that I'm using as a middle support for the desks is the same height as the legs on either side.

Small office before, with crappy back to back desk set up:











And after, with much better side by side desk set up:






As you can see, the 2 tops don't line up perfectly in the middle, so I ordered a couple of mending plates and will attach them when I can go pick them up, but for now it's a much better working space for us to use during the week.

Here you can see the drawer in all its glory, acting as a laptop tray. Unfortunately I couldn't make it tall enough to hold my old honkin' Alienware laptop but one of the drawers underneath has been relegated to that job.






And before it got too cold on Sunday, I cut all the cedar planks I got earlier in the week to size. Next up, garden boxes.


----------



## SD83

Good weather, so there will be some spraying... still have to work on the electronics cavity & make a new cover for that, but for once the color is kinda accurate in the picture


----------



## Deegatron

Blackmastadon - I've also had good luck with Watco Laquer. it's good stuff. by far best / easiest finish I've ever applied.


----------



## electriceye

"Working from home" during the lockdown has given me a TON of time to spend downstairs in my shop. So, I have lots going on. The biggest news is that I got a Powermatic jointer/planer with helical cutter head and I'm giddy with how well it works and how much I've been able to do with it in just a week. I have multiple projects in progress...


----------



## KnightBrolaire

need to wire her up and do a basic setup still


----------



## crackout

Built yet another body for my BM2. 
The Swietentia now matches the neck.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Continuing on my weird side project of building a keyboard. I decided I need a second ergodox for the office. If I ever go back to the office.




The pcb I got online. The black abs case pieces I milled at home out of ABS. I'm going to tweak the design and re mill them before I actually solder it together but it's coming together!


----------



## pott

Nice! My main keyboards are Split, ortholinears (ergodox has column stagger) and it's always extremely hard to come back to regular boards after that.

Nothing weird about it by the way, there's a large and pretty awesome community around DIY mechanical boards


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

pott said:


> Nice! My main keyboards are Split, ortholinears (ergodox has column stagger) and it's always extremely hard to come back to regular boards after that.
> 
> Nothing weird about it by the way, there's a large and pretty awesome community around DIY mechanical boards



Very cool. Yeah going back to a regular board now is kind of difficult. 

And yeah I stumbled on r/mk one day and... The rest is history.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

How about I post/spam more keyboard renders, because why not. I'm debating between a wood case and a black plastic case at the moment. Leaning toward plastic for the pro look but wood would be kinda neat.


----------



## Solodini

LiveOVErdrive said:


> How about I post/spam more keyboard renders, because why not. I'm debating between a wood case and a black plastic case at the moment. Leaning toward plastic for the pro look but wood would be kinda neat.
> 
> View attachment 80926




I like the wood. No I do not wish to rephrase that.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Solodini said:


> I like the wood. No I do not wish to rephrase that.





Ended up doing half and half. Plywood wasn't holding together well enough for the finer cuts on the plate. I may try with hardwood at some point - maple or something. But I don't have anything thin enough to use without wasting a ton of wood. 

Even the plywood on the bottom isn't holding up very well. But that piece can be replaced, so I'll just make a better one later out of maple or something. Maybe bamboo.


----------



## Solodini

Bamboo would be sweet.


----------



## AxRookie

I've had my Kiesel JB200C for around 6 months and I love it BUT I'll never use the "out of phase" mini-switch and there are a few electrical features I wanted to add so I decided to just jump in with both feet so I'm completely rewiring and upgrading the electronics.

So to start with I made a list of everything I wanted to do with the guitar during this "upgrade"...


Electronics Upgrades
Lace Alumitone Deathbucker Bridge Pickup
N-Tune On Board Chromatic Tuner
Gavitt Braided Shielded Guitar Wire
Orange Drop .022µF 200V Polypropylene 715P Tone Capacitors
HDCustom Guitar Supply Premium Treble Bypass Filter/Treble Bleeds
Switchcraft 151 1/4" Mono 2 Conductor Thick Panel Mount Jack


Switch Mods

N-Tune On Board Chromatic Tuner-Push/Pull Switch on Neck Volume Pot
The Blower Switch-Push/Pull Bridge Pickup Bypass Switch on Bridge Volume Pot
The Kill Switch-Signal Cut Off Mini Toggle Switch/Repurposed "out of phase" mini-switch


Standard Switches Retained

Pickups-Coil Split Mini Toggle Switches
3-Way Pickup Selector Switch


I have two brands of Push/Pull Audio Taper Volume Pots coming to see which brand I like best since they are only around $8 dollars each.

DiMarzio Push/Pull Audio Taper 500k Neck/250k Bridge Volume Pots, DPDT
or
Bourns Pro Push/Pull Audio Taper 500k Neck/250k Bridge Volume Pots, DPDT


Next, I made a custom wiring schematic that has everything I want to add to my guitar just to make sure everything would work when I got done with it, electrically it all looks right and should work as planned...






So far everything is going smoothly and I'm over halfway done and just waiting for the volume pots to show up to finish this project...


----------



## AxRookie

Well, I was not liking the sound of the Lace Alumitone Deathbucker in the Bridge Pickup position after a quick sound test so I went back to the original Kiezel M22SD which means I had to change the volume and tone pots back to a 500 Kohm pots which are no big deal, It just means I'll have to redo my custom wiring schematic with and update of the change back.

I had everything done last night except connecting the tone caps to the tone pots so I plug her in to test everything was working well at that point and it sounds GREAT, the kill switch makes the guitar dead silent through the amp and unless you switch either of the pickups to single coil everything is very quiet with just a little hum if either of the pickups is split which is to be expected...

I'll finish her up tonight and if I like how the tone pots are working and sounding this project will be complete and a success!


----------



## AxRookie

Well, it's all done and everything is working perfectly! Not my prettiest work but it gets the job done with the tools I have available at the moment...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Swapped my strat pickups for the zillionth time.




Its still SSS, right?


----------



## AxRookie

Not always... lol


----------



## AxRookie

I just got done playing this guitar for two hours (all my fingertips could take for the moment) and everything sounds great!!! I couldn't be happier with this guitar!!!

I'm done making any more changes with this guitar for the foreseeable future...


----------



## Ant78

I'm finishing up an Ibanez 7 string build using a body from an RG1527 and the neck from an RG7620. I picked up the body off of Reverb with a hideous redwood burl veneer that was peeling off and was in overall poor condition. The neck was found on ebay in good condition, frets needed a little work. 




I decided to make it a little easier and cheaper on myself by buying and installing an upgraded Floyd Rose Special 
instead of the Lo Pro Edge, as well as many other non-Ibanez parts.

For the body I wound up stripping the veneer, fixing a few dings, modified the trem route for the Floyd, sanded down the existing paint, and shimmed the neck pocket sides (7620 neck was 2mm too narrow for the 1527 neck pocket) before respraying it in Midnight Purple. I decided on gold hardware and a gold reflective Ibanez decal to match buried in the clear coat. Gotoh Tuners, Cts pot and a mini killswitch plus a set of Dimarzio Crunch Lab and Liquifire were installed.


----------



## AxRookie

Ant78 said:


> I'm finishing up an Ibanez 7 string build using a body from an RG1527 and the neck from an RG7620. I picked up the body off of Reverb with a hideous redwood burl veneer that was peeling off and was in overall poor condition. The neck was found on ebay in good condition, frets needed a little work.
> View attachment 81660
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to make it a little easier and cheaper on myself by buying and installing an upgraded Floyd Rose Special
> instead of the Lo Pro Edge, as well as many other non-Ibanez parts.
> 
> For the body I wound up stripping the veneer, fixing a few dings, modified the trem route for the Floyd, sanded down the existing paint, and shimmed the neck pocket sides (7620 neck was 2mm too narrow for the 1527 neck pocket) before respraying it in Midnight Purple. I decided on gold hardware and a gold reflective Ibanez decal to match buried in the clear coat. Gotoh Tuners, Cts pot and a mini killswitch plus a set of Dimarzio Crunch Lab and Liquifire were installed.
> 
> View attachment 81662
> View attachment 81663


Man what a difference! Great work!

The 7620 neck had the same bolt pattern as the 1527 body?


----------



## Ant78

AxRookie said:


> Man what a difference! Great work!
> 
> The 7620 neck had the same bolt pattern as the 1527 body?



Thanks. Yup, the holes lined up perfectly.


----------



## AxRookie

Ant78 said:


> Thanks. Yup, the holes lined up perfectly.


Did you know that before you bought them or did it just look like it would work?


----------



## Ant78

AxRookie said:


> Did you know that before you bought them or did it just look like it would work?



I read somewhere that the hole pattern is identical, the only difference is the neck and pocket widths vary among models.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Girlfriend: Whatcha making?
Me: A scrap wood cart out of scrap wood.
GF: That's pretty meta.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Finished up some knives.


----------



## Taylor

Love the pattern of the Damascus in the blue handled one


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> Finished up some knives.


So cool! Do you have to heat and quench them to get them hard enough to use or is the steel already good to go? (or is that step not necessary anyway? I know nothing about steel)


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> So cool! Do you have to heat and quench them to get them hard enough to use or is the steel already good to go? (or is that step not necessary anyway? I know nothing about steel)


I didn't make the steel, just bought some ready to go blades and made the handles/sharpened them. 

You usually have to temper/quench the steel if you're working from bar stock or multilam to get the right hardness. I've seen guys take tool steel and basically just angle grind out a functional knife before as well. Just depends on what you're trying to do.


----------



## Albake21

KnightBrolaire said:


> Finished up some knives.


I don't know shit about knifes, but those look awesome! Where did you buy the blades from?


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Albake21 said:


> I don't know shit about knifes, but those look awesome! Where did you buy the blades from?


just off ebay. pretty easy to source blades and handle blanks on there.


----------



## Randy

Cleaning day today. Well, cleaning week actually.

Added two 3D printers to my workflow, offloaded a couple deadweight projects (and dusted off another), and I decided I'm tripping over myself too much to be effective.

First project was general cleaning, tossing shit out and organizing. Organizing became literally emptying every small bag or bin or Tupperware and sorting out literally every nut bolt and screw in my parts.






The biggest surprise was how many tuners I have.  Anyway, I've tried literally a half dozen ways to organize this stuff in the past but it's hard because of so many small but the some huge parts. So current plan/purchase are medium sized bins, and various sized bags (gallon, sandwich, snack, drug dealer) to sort by type (ie: electronics) and filter down to more specific components in smaller bags. Seems like easiest way to find shit.

Also expanded the shop to make room for the 3D printers. They're current spread out on my CNC table and on my drafting/drill press table. Other than the fact I need that space, I also want them removed from the main shop space where there's sawdust and shit in the air more days than not.

I had a small room off of the main shop where I moved my setup and wiring bench, since that's the last project I had that I wanted to get out of the sawdust room. Unfortunately I didn't have sufficient lighting there and it became storage for the last year and I had to do my setups and wiring on the dining room table. 

ANYWAY, I got shop lights, cleaned up space, arranged my bench and dragged in a second one. Craftsman bench was a roadside find a couple years back, I'll probably glue up a 2x4 top for it.




Also, I've attempted several times to manage dust extraction unsuccessfully. Never enough suction or enough dust capacity or ease of removal, so it typically sits on the floor and swept into the corners. Decided the most practical arrangement is a shopvac+cyclone to keep from wearing out filters. I've got a firepit about 50ft away from the shop doors, so a 5 gallon bucket of wood chips/dust is easy to dispose of, especially during the spring/summer/fall.

Also tracked down my 30+ year old bucket vac to power it. Only thing it needs is a platform to hold the two together. I already have most of the tool fittings for dust removal but might need to buy, fab or print some reducers.


----------



## Randy

Got the parts bagged and boxed. From one and a half full shelves of mess to four small bins in less than a third of one shelf.


----------



## Randy

3D printer freebie bench done.

Had some pretty nice 2x4s left after demolition from a home renovation project. Only bothered planing them on one sided, then join them.

Dry fit.




Glue up. Came to 19" deep, luckily I have 24" screw clamps.




After the glue dries, I leveled one bulging plank with the hand plane, then sanded with the belt sander, orbital and then the mouse.

'Finishing' a workbench is kind of a simp thing to do, but I'm expecting to spill lots of resin and shit on here, so I figured I need something to repel stickiness. I flooded and wiped it with Danish Oil and then Feed N Wax, wipe and then buff.




Printers added. Still need to add power strip. Digging the extra space. Might have room for an enclosure and maybe something else?

Left is a Monoprice Maker Select v2 with a Z brace, glass bed and Micro Swiss all metal extruder conversion. Right is a Sparkmaker resin printer.




Also printed up my first practical item. Only machine still lacking a port for dust collection was the bandsaw so I sketched one up.







Print was done with black ABS. Sliced with Cura, 60/mm speed, .2mm layer height, 250c hot end, 110c bed temp, 20% cubic infill with two layer walls, .8mm top and bottom layers. Very sturdy and done in 2 hours vs 5 hours under the auto settings.


----------



## Kyle-Vick

Looks like knives are okay here. I have been working on a lot of bladesmithing and leather working projects over the past couple of months.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Kyle-Vick said:


> Looks like knives are okay here. I have been working on a lot of bladesmithing and leather working projects over the past couple of months.
> View attachment 82516
> View attachment 82517
> View attachment 82518
> View attachment 82519
> View attachment 82520
> View attachment 82521
> View attachment 82522
> View attachment 82523
> View attachment 82524


Man I'd love to get into forging my own blades.


----------



## Kyle-Vick

KnightBrolaire said:


> Man I'd love to get into forging my own blades.



You should go for it, its not too bad to get into, and its really fulfilling.


----------



## 8STRINGS

doing some custom inlay on a koa Taylor and doing a refret while I’m at it.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I randomly set a jem pickguard on my Tele body and... It kinda looks cool. I could see a woody rg/Tele hybrid being kinda cool.


----------



## 8STRINGS

Had to go out in the sun and photograph this koa, god dayum


----------



## KnightBrolaire

slapped some clear coat over the faceplate I made. Mostly just to test the sprayer I bought lol


----------



## Taylor

KnightBrolaire said:


> slapped some clear coat over the faceplate I made. Mostly just to test the sprayer I bought lol



Saw your post on Instagram, how do you like the Crystalac Britetone? I just ordered some and am waiting for it to get here.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Taylor said:


> Saw your post on Instagram, how do you like the Crystalac Britetone? I just ordered some and am waiting for it to get here.


I like it a lot. It's a good clear coat that builds easily, is easy to clean up, dries quickly and it's relatively durable compared to other clears I've tried (excluding spraymax 2k). Plus you really don't need much if any to clear coat a guitar and a neck.


----------



## morgdav

Test fret board cut on the CNC using the vacuum clamp I made:


----------



## 8STRINGS

inlay update


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

8STRINGS said:


> inlay update


Beautiful


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

My shop is far too messy to do actual work (seriously there is literally no bare floor. It's shameful), but I managed to build this little project anyway.




This is a temp controller for my weber grill. The bowl with fan attaches to an air intake on the bottom and the thermostat turns the fan on if the temp goes too low, stoking the fire and raising the temp. Dead simple and hopefully it'll work. You can buy these things but the cheapest one is 150 bucks. I got this thermostat unit for 15, and all the other parts are basically scraps, so.... Yeah.


----------



## 8STRINGS

Been doing my logo inlay on the back of headstocks in the volute area lately











I finally finished up this Gold mother of Pearl inlay job for Downtown Eli Brown


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

8STRINGS said:


> Been doing my logo inlay on the back of headstocks in the volute area lately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I finally finished up this Gold mother of Pearl inlay job for Downtown Eli Brown


Do you do your inlays by hand or do you use cnc?


----------



## 8STRINGS

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Do you do your inlays by hand or do you use cnc?


Both. Cnc for most things. I sometimes do hand engraving after inlaying.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

8STRINGS said:


> Both. Cnc for most things. I sometimes do hand engraving after inlaying.


Well they are beautiful.


----------



## 8STRINGS

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Well they are beautiful.


Well thank you, I appreciate it


----------



## KnightBrolaire

messing around with a snowfall esque finish (basically white w blue/green holoflake)

https://www.instagram.com/p/CD6so2hnImP/?igshid=1am9brs37uw3q


----------



## Taylor

KnightBrolaire said:


> messing around with a snowfall esque finish (basically white w blue/green holoflake)
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CD6so2hnImP/?igshid=1am9brs37uw3q



That's hot


----------



## 8STRINGS

finally got some pickguards made for my “vintage” teles


----------



## TonyFlyingSquirrel

Haven't been able to take picks yet, but currently on my workbench is a 1981 Gibson, "The Paul" model, which was very short lived, came in for an output jack replacement, all of the giblets are stock, pots, caps, all of it except the jack now. Also have a Mexi Start in for a simple setup, with "12's"!.
And, 2 instruments from the same owner, a 1934 National Resonator guitar in for a passive Fishman Resophonic pickup install, and a brand new Gold Tone or something or other resonator in for an active Fishman Resophonic pickup/preamp install, including routing a battery box into the side of the bass side of the body in the waist area. Fun stuff.


----------



## dmlinger

KnightBrolaire said:


> messing around with a snowfall esque finish (basically white w blue/green holoflake)
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/CD6so2hnImP/?igshid=1am9brs37uw3q



Really dig that. How did you mix and shoot this? What equipment are you running?


----------



## KnightBrolaire

dmlinger said:


> Really dig that. How did you mix and shoot this? What equipment are you running?


Oh it's just enamel white spray can to get the base white. A mix of crystalac britetone and like 50g of blue/green colorchanging holoflake to give the fresh snow vibe.

I still need a dedicated HVLP setup for paint, I'm slumming it currently. I'm using a wagner control spray for clears lol


----------



## dmlinger

KnightBrolaire said:


> Oh it's just enamel white spray can to get the base white. A mix of crystalac britetone and like 50g of blue/green colorchanging holoflake to give the fresh snow vibe.
> 
> I still need a dedicated HVLP setup for paint, I'm slumming it currently. I'm using a wagner control spray for clears lol


Nice results though. I used spray cans for a long while, but did get a Fujispray HVLP setup thanks to Amazon gift cards  

The only thing I miss is having zero cleanup after using cans. Cleaning a HVLP is a pain in the ass.


----------



## Solodini

8STRINGS said:


> finally got some pickguards made for my “vintage” teles



I like how the bridge plate says "In-Tune" in quotation marks, as though it still might not be.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

8STRINGS said:


> finally got some pickguards made for my “vintage” teles


I think I saw you post these on reddit too. They're super cool. A funky kind of Dr Seuss vintage vibe going on.


----------



## cip 123

I've been spraying this with a bit of lacquer to fill in the low spots and start the restoration on it. 













8720BBAC-1282-4DFA-8941-103B3F9048D6



__ cip 123
__ Aug 19, 2020


----------



## Omzig

Solodini said:


> I like how the bridge plate says "In-Tune" in quotation marks, as though it still might not be.



In-tune (open) but never quite intonated


----------



## 8STRINGS




----------



## kyleganger

cip 123 said:


> I've been spraying this with a bit of lacquer to fill in the low spots and start the restoration on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8720BBAC-1282-4DFA-8941-103B3F9048D6
> 
> 
> 
> __ cip 123
> __ Aug 19, 2020


Did you buy that off Reverb? I hope you didn't pay what someone was asking for it


----------



## cip 123

kyleganger said:


> Did you buy that off Reverb? I hope you didn't pay what someone was asking for it


I bought it off ebay. What were they asking on reverb?

For a salvageable Parker that's pretty near completion it wasn't much for me. It's mainly just got a load of chips, dents, and questionable routing. All fixable.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

messing around with a jawbreaker finish inspired by vernon reid's esp. Needs more layers and colors but I think it'll be fun.


----------



## cip 123

Started grain filling this body I made for a Schecter neck


----------



## failsafe

polishing and final assembly on my latest build


----------



## ElRay

8STRINGS said:


> ...


What prompted the "caducues" (technically "Rod of Asclepius")?


----------



## KnightBrolaire

ElRay said:


> What prompted the "caducues" (technically "Rod of Asclepius")?


kind of off topic but the caduceus is hermes' staff with 2 snakes and wings. It's completely different from the rod of asclepius and doesn't have the traditional connotation of medicine like the rod of asclepius.
nobody uses it outside the usa, and the only reason it sees some use here is because the military refuses to change from it to the rod of asclepius.


----------



## Omzig

KnightBrolaire said:


> messing around with a jawbreaker finish inspired by vernon reid's esp. Needs more layers and colors but I think it'll be fun.



What a CULT  love that


----------



## 8STRINGS

ElRay said:


> What prompted the "caducues" (technically "Rod of Asclepius")?


Not really sure, the customer provided the artwork.


----------



## cip 123

Got this awesome looking Sapele in, not too sure what I should do with it. Ibanez kinda body I'm feeling though.













A81998F0-50E8-4126-976C-BE6FC279E5D2



__ cip 123
__ Sep 30, 2020


----------



## Omzig

cip 123 said:


> Got this awesome looking Sapele in, not too sure what I should do with it. Ibanez kinda body I'm feeling though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A81998F0-50E8-4126-976C-BE6FC279E5D2
> 
> 
> 
> __ cip 123
> __ Sep 30, 2020



I dumb thee "Curtain Sapele", i have a blank that's similar but has a slight bow to the center, just saw pepperfox's tele build's so i know what to use it for now


----------



## cip 123

Omzig said:


> I dumb thee "Curtain Sapele", i have a blank that's similar but has a slight bow to the center, just saw pepperfox's tele build's so i know what to use it for now


I gave it some thought and I’ve ended up at a tele as well 


I picked up some black walnut at the same time as this and have some figured tops now so might do a semi hollow.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

cip 123 said:


> I gave it some thought and I’ve ended up at a tele as well
> 
> 
> I picked up some black walnut at the same time as this and have some figured tops now so might do a semi hollow.



How about a single cut rg? The Ibanez Tele, if the rg is the Ibanez strat.


----------



## cip 123

LiveOVErdrive said:


> How about a single cut rg? The Ibanez Tele, if the rg is the Ibanez strat.


I could rock with that, but feeling pretty settled in with a traditional tele now I’ve done a load of Ibanez stuff recently so I should actually be fine


----------



## Soya

While not strictly guitar related, it's at least music related. Finished up another Bluetooth speaker, 2 Dayton audio DMA80 neo drivers ported at 52hz, running roughly 50 watts. About 15 hour battery life at medium volume with a 1500mah 6s lipo. Happy with the bass and mid response but highs are still a bit cloudy, might design a compact 2 way setup next. Very light though, maybe 4lbs.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Slimenstein is coming along nicely.


----------



## Soya

Cooler disrespected


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Soya said:


> Cooler disrespected


I have 2 good coolers, and this one is basically trash, so I use it as a painting stand lol


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> I have 2 good coolers, and this one is basically trash, so I use it as a painting stand lol


Well the paint definitely makes it look
... 
Cooler


----------



## Taylor

Finally got around to restoring my old Union #5 hand plane. It used to belong to my great-grandfather, and possibly his father. I did a little research and managed to figure out that it was manufactured either in or before 1917. Making it over 100 years old. Kinda neat. Totally forgot to take some before pics so I pulled one from one of my build threads. 




As you can see there is quite a patina, but there was also quite a bit of rust that necessitated total removal. I did a 24hr vinegar soak and most of the rust literally rubbed off with a finger. 



The tote and knob were in decent shape but the finish wasn't great, and had white paint splatters over it. I didn't care for the gloss finish anyway so they got stripped and refinished with Tru-Oil.




You can see the japanning has been lost in some areas, mostly due to rust bubbling up from underneath, but surprisingly it is mostly intact.




You can see "UNION MFG CO." stamped on the blade indicating that it was built before 1917 when Union reconsolidated and later models were stamped "Union Plane Co."

Hopefully I can get another 50 years of guitar building out of her.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Had some time to continue working on my fanned seven string. Finished the neck shape and mounted the inserts. Here are some shots how I do this, would be interested if anyone has a better idea here...


----------



## Lemonbaby

As the wood work was more or less done, I checked if everything fits in the electronics compartment and mounted the hardware. Tomorrow's finishing day, so I'll spend some time sanding and applying a dye.


----------



## Randy

Nothing visual to post at the moment. 

As I mentioned in the Skull and Bones thread, I moved in October and have been in the slow process of transferring the shop to the new place. Further complicated by the fact I'm having DMV issues that have prevented me from having my tow vehicle on the road since the beginning of December.

In the meantime, I did do some work on the lighting in the basement/shop. It was like a cave down there before with a couple incandescent lightbulbs you turn on and off with a pull chain, and I switched it all over to efficient LED shop lights that all turn on/off with the switch at the top of the stairs. At this point it looks like a fuckin operating room


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Randy said:


> Nothing visual to post at the moment.
> 
> As I mentioned in the Skull and Bones thread, I moved in October and have been in the slow process of transferring the shop to the new place. Further complicated by the fact I'm having DMV issues that have prevented me from having my tow vehicle on the road since the beginning of December.
> 
> In the meantime, I did do some work on the lighting in the basement/shop. It was like a cave down there before with a couple incandescent lightbulbs you turn on and off with a pull chain, and I switched it all over to efficient LED shop lights that all turn on/off with the switch at the top of the stairs. At this point it looks like a fuckin operating room



Man I'd love to put LED's in my shop. That's gotta be next on my shop upgrade list. Currently running those long tube fluorescent bulbs... they are sketchy at best. The one right over my bench constantly flickers like something out of a horror movie scene. Cool for a halloween decoration but crappy to work under.


----------



## Randy

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Man I'd love to put LED's in my shop. That's gotta be next on my shop upgrade list. Currently running those long tube fluorescent bulbs... they are sketchy at best. The one right over my bench constantly flickers like something out of a horror movie scene. Cool for a halloween decoration but crappy to work under.



I upgraded the old shop one unit at a time as finances would allow, but all the major retailers started stocking them consistently for sub-$20 per unit which made it easy to do and also expand.

For the new shop I was able to convert the whole place for under $200. They're brighter, they don't flicker, they don't need to "warm up", they use considerably less energy, they're more compact/lighter, and they're linkable up to 4 units off the same outlet.


----------



## Taylor

Randy said:


> In the meantime, I did do some work on the lighting in the basement/shop. It was like a cave down there before with a couple incandescent lightbulbs you turn on and off with a pull chain, and I switched it all over to efficient LED shop lights that all turn on/off with the switch at the top of the stairs. At this point it looks like a fuckin operating room



LED shop-lights are the way to go


----------



## Randy

Finally got my DMV shit out of the way, shoveled out from the snowstorm two days ago, so I got the chance to start moving stuff over.

Not much set up yet but most of the big stuff moved over. Table saw and CNC machine are still left, then literally all of my projects and lumber, hand tools etc.

Getting that drill press and bandsaw up stairs, on and off the trailer and back down another flight of stairs was a NIGHTMARE.


----------



## Lemonbaby

This is more "above my workbench", but an important device for anyone creating fine wood dust. We all know, it kills you in the long run. Some wood dusts cause nausea, others are straight out carcinogenic. Take care of your health, guys!


----------



## Randy

Lemonbaby said:


> This is more "above my workbench", but an important device for anyone creating fine wood dust. We all know, it kills you in the long run. Some wood dusts cause nausea, others are straight out carcinogenic. Take care of your health, guys!



Definitely on the "must" list. Been using a respirator style mask for the last few years and it's nice but annoying if you're putting in a full day. 

Cleaning today. You also see the difference from the lighting upgrades.


----------



## Lemonbaby

@Randy Wow! That's what I call a huge workshop, also like the stone walls.

If anyone ever thought about using those, I just received the El Cheapo headless tuners from AliExpress. Don't look bad at all, strings are clamped with a hex screw and the tuning mechanism has a ball bearing for smooth action. All in all, I'd call it a good choice at ~68USD for seven tuners including shipping to Europe.


----------



## Omzig

Randy said:


> Definitely on the "must" list. Been using a respirator style mask for the last few years and it's nice but annoying if you're putting in a full day.
> 
> Cleaning today. You also see the difference from the lighting upgrades.



Dam fill my fridge with beer my bench with wood and lock me down there, paridise


----------



## Omzig

Lemonbaby said:


> @Randy Wow! That's what I call a huge workshop, also like the stone walls.
> 
> If anyone ever thought about using those, I just received the El Cheapo headless tuners from AliExpress. Don't look bad at all, strings are clamped with a hex screw and the tuning mechanism has a ball bearing for smooth action. All in all, I'd call it a good choice at ~68USD for seven tuners including shipping to Europe.



Cool can you please add that to the headless hardware feedback thread? 

https://www.sevenstring.org/threads/hardware-for-headless-build.341920/


----------



## ElRay

Lemonbaby said:


> This is more "above my workbench", but an important device for anyone creating fine wood dust. We all know, it kills you in the long run. Some wood dusts cause nausea, others are straight out carcinogenic. Take care of your health, guys!


One quick caveat: These are good for keeping your shop clean, but they're not suitable as the only/primary dust collector for health protection. You still need good sub-micron point of production dust collection and/or respirator mask. Anything these catch, your lungs are already catching. In fact, unless it has a good sub-micron filtration, it's likely making things less healthy by keeping small particles afloat longer and spreading them throughout the shop.


----------



## Lemonbaby

@ElRay Good point. The room filter does not replace peronal protection masks! Of course, whenever possible and needed (orbital sanding, routing, ...) I wear an FFP2 mask and connect a vacuum cleaner for dust extraction. But this one in addition reduces particles floating around in the air significantly quicker and filters down to 1 micron size. A lot of the critical particle matter between 1 and 10 micron is filtered within a 10 minute break this way. At least in a small workshop like mine.


----------



## Solodini

Lemonbaby said:


> @Randy Wow! That's what I call a huge workshop, also like the stone walls.
> 
> If anyone ever thought about using those, I just received the El Cheapo headless tuners from AliExpress. Don't look bad at all, strings are clamped with a hex screw and the tuning mechanism has a ball bearing for smooth action. All in all, I'd call it a good choice at ~68USD for seven tuners including shipping to Europe.





Looking good!


----------



## Randy

CNC in, along with first cuts in the new shop. Upgraded to t-tracks from all painters tape and superglue, and cut myself a fresh spoilboard. 3D printer is currently running off some hold down.


----------



## Randy

Hold downs finished. They came from thingiverse, the knobs I drafted myself because I didn't like any of the ones I saw. Everything's in PLA with 30% cubic infill and 4 layer walls, which is a good balance of strength and flexibility.


----------



## Kyle-Vick

Tried my hand at pedal building and I’m hooked. My wife did the painting of my (recently deceased) kitty cat and all of the labels and logos on them. The Boost pedal is a combo of a 33 and a TC Pre. The Whiskey Throttle is a BE-OD and Dirty Shirley combo. The Fat Fat Fuzz is just a FuzzFace type clone. The white one is a EQD Life Pedal clone.


----------



## BlackMastodon

Lots of cool stuff here that I've missed lately. Thank you @Randy for the idea to put my 3D printer to use for some workbench upgrades.


----------



## Randy

BlackMastodon said:


> Lots of cool stuff here that I've missed lately. Thank you @Randy for the idea to put my 3D printer to use for some workbench upgrades.



Just added this over the weekend.





Bottom is attached with magnets, sweeper is made out of duct tape. Gave it it's first run early this week, worked great but when it got really low, the duct tape bristles were too stiff and the bottom wanted to start coming loose. Still a good design though, I think the bristles less stiff or knobs on hold-downs being shorter and I'd be fine.

Here's a link to my thingiverse file.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4751683

Also made my first cuts in the new shop with the new rig. This is a piece of Douglas Fir I got from demolishing a porch at my parents house. It's from 1910 at the most recent and 1870s at the earliest.


----------



## Omzig

Wow love that DF body very cool are you going to oil it and keep the texture or burry it in poly/clear gloss? 

Nice boot setup but i found after making a few myself that it's much better to mount the boot to the static C-beam plate and allow the sindle/router Z axis to move inside the brush head, that way you can set the brush to always be a consistant hight and the suction is much better, just make a few plates with different lenght brushes.


----------



## Randy

Omzig said:


> Wow love that DF body very cool are you going to oil it and keep the texture or burry it in poly/clear gloss?
> 
> Nice boot setup but i found after making a few myself that it's much better to mount the boot to the static C-beam plate and allow the sindle/router Z axis to move inside the brush head, that way you can set the brush to always be a consistant hight and the suction is much better, just make a few plates with different lenght brushes.



Good to know. I made my knobs a little oversized because I've had bad experiences with undersized knobs being rough on my fingers when tightening stuff down like my spool clamps. I have more than enough leverage to overtighten these so I'm gonna shrink then down for my next few cuts. 

If I'm still getting the boot coming loose, I'll switch to a design like you're describing. I was trying to make something I could test without unscrewing any of my plate screws/bolts but being pretty happy with the results, I'm definitely more open to a more permanent setup. 

Haven't decided what I'm using on the body yet. I mean, it sat outside in upstate NY (0 degrees to 90+ in the summer) over dirt with the weight of a house on it for 100 years, so I'm not super worried about how it handles environment too too much. Whatever maintains the look and provides some protection really but no clue on what yet.


----------



## Omzig

Randy said:


> Good to know. I made my knobs a little oversized because I've had bad experiences with undersized knobs being rough on my fingers when tightening stuff down like my spool clamps. I have more than enough leverage to overtighten these so I'm gonna shrink then down for my next few cuts.
> 
> If I'm still getting the boot coming loose, I'll switch to a design like you're describing. I was trying to make something I could test without unscrewing any of my plate screws/bolts but being pretty happy with the results, I'm definitely more open to a more permanent setup.
> 
> Haven't decided what I'm using on the body yet. I mean, it sat outside in upstate NY (0 degrees to 90+ in the summer) over dirt with the weight of a house on it for 100 years, so I'm not super worried about how it handles environment too too much. Whatever maintains the look and provides some protection really but no clue on what yet.



Very Cool id lock all that history in there with a nice clear high gloss...but high gloss 80's guitars are my thing so 

& If you looking for a good solution to get a boot on and off and being able to alter it to any job surface id say just look at cnc'ing & 3d printing up your own Suckit style boot...id buy one but at the same cost as a spindle i think i know where my moneys going first


----------



## Deegatron

Finally finally finally working on another build for me.
I've decided I need a sev… so here it is.
Mahogany body. neck will be padauk and wenge.


----------



## Omzig

Deegatron said:


> Finally finally finally working on another build for me.
> I've decided I need a sev… so here it is.
> Mahogany body. neck will be padauk and wenge.



Good man welcome back  Im kinda stuck finishing up older builds and modding some stuff till i can get my water spindle ordered and setup (had someone bitching about the routers noise/pitch) might be good for me to get some shit finished and make room in the shop for more "project" 

First up Stripping my HS RG dayglow mohog body...because it seems i cant follow my own advise on paint not being filler


----------



## youngthrasher9

I had some western cedar and roofing screws laying around so I built myself a redneck fredman clip!


----------



## thebeesknees22

I tried stipping the paint and staining an old mexican strat for the first time. I totally bombed.....
....gonna have to strip it all off again and redo it at some point lol

Good lessons learned though!


----------



## thebeesknees22

ok so on this strat lol 

I ordered a hipshot 6 string/6 screw bridge. I measure the screw spacing/width etc.. all good. I slap it on, and it looks nice! Perfect fit....or so I thought. .. lol..... the saddles are way low for the neck. 

I've shimmed the bridge a good 1/4" higher and it's ok now. I'll have to take it down just a hair to really be in a nice spot but lol... this went from looking nice to looking real ghetto quick ha

I probably lost more height than I realized when I stripped that thick layer of paint off plus sanding it down. ...but whatever! It works. ...sort of. lol


----------



## Spicypickles

Shim the neck instead, or get the thicker baseplate version


----------



## Omzig

thebeesknees22 said:


> ok so on this strat lol
> 
> I ordered a hipshot 6 string/6 screw bridge. I measure the screw spacing/width etc.. all good. I slap it on, and it looks nice! Perfect fit....or so I thought. .. lol..... the saddles are way low for the neck.
> 
> I've shimmed the bridge a good 1/4" higher and it's ok now. I'll have to take it down just a hair to really be in a nice spot but lol... this went from looking nice to looking real ghetto quick ha
> 
> I probably lost more height than I realized when I stripped that thick layer of paint off plus sanding it down. ...but whatever! It works. ...sort of. lol




Humm got any pic's & how much heel/neck do you have exposed above the body line? if its a few MM id look at routing the neck pocket out a little to drop it level with the new bridge.


----------



## thebeesknees22

Lol you guys will probably find my fix hilarious, but here you go:


Don't mind the finish. It was my first attempt at doing a vintagey looking thing. I'll have to strip it and redo it when I get a proper space/tools to do it for real. (couldn't get my little compressor to spray so i only got one super thin coat of satin finish on it.)

Anywho, you'll see from the pics that if i drop the bridge down to be flush with the body then it's way way short. I've thought about routing the neck pocket like you mentioned @Omzig I'm not sure I want to bother with it right now though until I get a proper space to do it. (doing major work like that in my apartment was not ...a great idea when i stripped the paint off this to begin with hahaha ...so much sawdust...everywhere...hahah)

I'm not sure if anyone makes a neck with a thinner neck joint, but if I do a new neck, that would probably cost more than the original guitar so ...eh. ...meh. 

Anyway like I said, this is a pretty ghetto fix for now. But it works surprisingly well for as awful as it looks lol



You see it's a BIG gap. I'm looking at needing to route like 1/4" off of it.


----------



## Omzig

If i was doing this id look at splitting the dif and take 1/8 from both the neck heel and the pocket, you have plenty of meat in both, i can understand not wanting to make a mess in an apartment, see if there is a maker space you could visit to do the work+use the tools might cost a few $'s but better that buying tools you won't need again or paying someone else (a lot more) to do the work for you? GL & finish looks fine btw, ive seen ppl pay crazy money to get the same "reliced" look.


----------



## thebeesknees22

Lol yeah I'm not paying anyone to do stuff to this guitar. This one is just for practicing so I'm not too worried about it. 

Yeah, I think I'll wait until I can get a proper space to work in and then do what you said, and split the difference. I'll probably do another practice run at finishing too while I'm at it since this one came out a little bit darker blue than I meant for it to. It sounds fine though as is even though it looks janky. My ghetto fix miiiight be affecting the sustain a bit, but I have guitars that are worse for that. 

The lace sensor red/silver/blue's are fun. It's the first time I've ever used them. They're like ..instant grunge lol


----------



## migstopheles

Started my first ever guitar build. Using pine as it's just a practise guitar really, I have some ash and a walnut top at home ready for when I'm confident enough to build a "proper" guitar...

Body is a PRS Vela clone, but with a 750mm scale length and my own headstock design (which still needs some finalising, that right hand side ain't quite right)
Rough carved the body last night, waiting for a truss rod to arrive before I rout the neck.


----------



## NickS

Looks pretty good, though I hope that knot right in the centerline of the neck doesn't cause you problems when you go to route it. I like your stack of Festool equipment in the background too!


----------



## migstopheles

Urgh yeah that knot is actually a cluster of 4 knots right the way through, it's giving me nightmares just thinking about clearing that out  

The festool hoover belongs to the guy I share the space with, it's a great piece of equipment but holy shit has he paid a lot of money for it haha


----------



## Soya

Mmm Festool


----------



## ElRay

migstopheles said:


> Urgh yeah that knot is actually a cluster of 4 knots right the way through, it's giving me nightmares just thinking about clearing that out ...


Is it a tight knot? Does it go all the way through?

You can try saturating it with CA glue from both sides. And/or, you can squeegee a slow-set epoxy from both sides, before you shape the neck, then again, after you shape the neck and cut the slot for the truss rod.


----------



## GraemeH

migstopheles said:


> Started my first ever guitar build. Using pine as it's just a practise guitar really, I have some ash and a walnut top at home ready for when I'm confident enough to build a "proper" guitar...
> 
> Body is a PRS Vela clone, but with a 750mm scale length and my own headstock design (which still needs some finalising, that right hand side ain't quite right)
> Rough carved the body last night, waiting for a truss rod to arrive before I rout the neck.



Eyy another Edinburgh builder 
Yeah my first tester build was B&Q shit timber, so your pine build is luxury compared to that heh.
Shape and proportions are looking good and I'm a scale-length whore (my current build is a 30") so this is my jam!


----------



## electriceye

I would toss that neck. Besides the knot, which are typically brittle anyway, pine is just too soft for a neck. You can get a nice piece of maple for cheap anywhere. Do that instead.


----------



## Taylor

Some repairs on the neck of my old Jackson Rhoades. Apparently it had quite a fall off my workbench over the winter, but I don't ever remember knocking it off myself. Well not a super big deal I guess. Will be able to fix it up easily enough. Put a slight chamfer on the back of the headstock. Also stripped the poly finish off so I can refinish with Tru-Oil which is a superior neck finish feel-wise imo. 








Once I finish repairs and the refinish, and also once the paint I ordered gets here I'm going to try swirling it again.


----------



## migstopheles

electriceye said:


> I would toss that neck. Besides the knot, which are typically brittle anyway, pine is just too soft for a neck. You can get a nice piece of maple for cheap anywhere. Do that instead.



Yeah the neck has been tossed. That cluster of knots turned into a disaster... before I even had a chance to work on it, the wood moved and the knots didn't, so the whole thing was pivoted around that point, rendered the whole thing useless. Well, even more useless 

I had a lump of maple sitting about from a furniture project, which incredibly was _just_ the perfect size to make a replacement, so I've glued wings onto the headstock ready for re-shaping tomorrow... fingers crossed


----------



## migstopheles

GraemeH said:


> Eyy another Edinburgh builder
> Yeah my first tester build was B&Q shit timber, so your pine build is luxury compared to that heh.
> Shape and proportions are looking good and I'm a scale-length whore (my current build is a 30") so this is my jam!


There are dozens of us! Dozens!


----------



## Taylor

Didn't feel this warranted an entire new thread, but with the stimulus coming I'm looking at picking up a few tools. This Triton router in specific: http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Product/Power%20Tools/Routers/TRA001

Just wondering if anyone can recommend it or discourage me from buying it?


----------



## Omzig

Taylor said:


> Didn't feel this warranted an entire new thread, but with the stimulus coming I'm looking at picking up a few tools. This Triton router in specific: http://www.tritontools.com/en-GB/Product/Power%20Tools/Routers/TRA001
> 
> Just wondering if anyone can recommend it or discourage me from buying it?



I have one and it's sitting in a box wait to get sold...i think since i bought it about 8 years ago it's had about in all 2 hours run time max. it's Mega Heavy & i find it very difficult to handle because it's also very bulky, i was going to mount it somehow and use it for pin routing/surfacing but since i got the CNC it's just been sitting about under the desk. in this case id say bigger is not always better. shout if you want pic's of it side by side to compared to a plam router


----------



## Taylor

Omzig said:


> I have one and it's sitting in a box wait to get sold...i think since i bought it about 8 years ago it's had about in all 2 hours run time max. it's Mega Heavy & i find it very difficult to handle because it's also very bulky, i was going to mount it somehow and use it for pin routing/surfacing but since i got the CNC it's just been sitting about under the desk. in this case id say bigger is not always better. shout if you want pic's of it side by side to compared to a plam router



See now I figured might as well get the beefier version, but if the thing is an anvil I'm definitely going to reconsider. Just took a look at the specs, and holy shit 6.4kg! I know they have a 2 1/4HP version that's a bit lighter. I'll try and find a display model at some of the woodworking supply stores close to me.


----------



## Omzig

Taylor said:


> See now I figured might as well get the beefier version, but if the thing is an anvil I'm definitely going to reconsider. Just took a look at the specs, and holy shit 6.4kg! I know they have a 2 1/4HP version that's a bit lighter. I'll try and find a display model at some of the woodworking supply stores close to me.



Yep id suggest you try and get some "Hands On" with one as it's a bit of a Monster! More suited to a bench or table mount system id say.


----------



## Taylor

Taylor said:


> I'll try and find a display model at some of the woodworking supply stores close to me.



Managed to find a display model at my local shop. It was manageable but definitely had some heft. And it's 4lbs lighter than the 3 1/4 HP model. So it's a definite no on that one. Too bad my local shop has a 20% markup on all of their tools, so I won't be buying from them anytime soon.


----------



## Randy

Couple shop updates

Put together this wood rack. Still needs some stuff to finish it off like a trough in the front so I can stack the lumber a few pieces deep, casters and some plywood down the middle to connect the "shelves"

The main goal is to consolidate all my wood in one place and to make it rolling so I can move it an access both sides. Front is mostly for the tonewoods, back will be for plywood sheets, middle shelves for dimensional lumber like 2x4s




Second project was this rolling tool cart. My old shop had a built in cabinet that I screwed pegboards to for my tools. It was actually kinda inconvenient since one door opened toward the wall and the tools on that side were hard to access.

Goal with this one was to get my tools organized, also have it on wheels so that I could park it one place and move it when I need. Added perk of being able to roll it to whatever bench I'm workong on doesn't hurt.

It's mostly 2x4s, and two 2'x4' sheets of pegboard. I've got two 2x4s in the middle running left to right, both are there for support but also to screw the magnetic bars to. Those were on sale at Harbor Freight this weekend for $2 a piece. Wheels are 2" poly urethane casters, also HF for ~$3.50 each.


----------



## Randy

Other project du jour was this Proxxon mini mill. I've had them on my radar for a couple years but price was never right to justify it to tinker with. One recently popped on CL in basically new shape, which was enough opportunity for me to take the plunge.




The plan was to modify it for CNC (of course  ), the main interest was for light metal working. I'm less than impressed by how the Shapeoko handles aluminum and didn't see a small enough gantry system for me to want to go that route. The ridgid Z axis is the key here.

Anyway, I did some tests manually on some scrap aluminum and was happy enough with the results I got to proceed.

I used the popular "bubblegum CNC" conversion that's available on Thingiverse. Everything was printed in PLA w/ 55% cubic infill. Steppers are Nema 17 (medium torque) and 626 bearings on everything. The Proxxon lead screws have a weird diameter, so the couplings are 5mm to 4mm that I reamed out on one side to fit the shaft.




Unpictured, for the electronics, it's using an Ardunio UNO + CNC Shield v3 and A4988 drivers. Power supply is a generic 12V 10A thing, which looks to be sufficent as the Nema 17s draw max 2A a piece. The Arduino is running GRBL 0.9 and I'm controlling it using UGS.

I did test of a couple tool paths to try out bridge milling in wood.







I was quite pleased with the results, so I decided to up things to aluminum.

I broke a couple bits pretty quick, as the toolpaths were too aggressive for the harder material, especially all the corners. So I tweaked the toolpaths and got it to cut 'something' resembling a baseplate.

Please excuse the gouges, like I said I broke a couple bits and only had one piece of stock cut to size so I just plowed through it. I also didn't have homing setup yet so whenever it error'd, I had to rezero it manually.




I'm pretty happy with that for my first attempt. I broke my last 1/8" bit near the very end of this so I didn't get a chance to make another one.

After this, I decided to put everything in a housing (unpictured) to make the machine easier to move around the shop. Unfortunately putting the Arduino in a box made it kinda cramped, so I didn't notice the negative lead supply to the CNC shield came loose, so the next time I turned the machine on it fried the stepper drivers. Ordered replacements, got them put in and now appears it fried the Arudino too, so waiting for another one of those to come in.

Overall, it has it's pluses and minuses. I spent more time and $ on it than I'd have liked to, and the size is limiting to an extent. I can see why a lot of guys make the jump to an HF or Grizzly mill but the small footprint of this is hard to deny. It's like the size of a Keurig coffee maker, and light so you can stick it on the bench, make some cuts, vacuum it off and stick it back underneath.


----------



## IGC

Randy said:


> After this, I decided to put everything in a housing (unpictured) to make the machine easier to move around the shop. Unfortunately putting the Arduino in a box made it kinda cramped, so I didn't notice the negative lead supply to the CNC shield came loose, so the next time I turned the machine on it fried the stepper drivers. Ordered replacements, got them put in and now appears it fried the Arudino too, so waiting for another one of those to come in. .






I'v actually had a full bran new set of A4988 drivers be completely faulty / overheat and fry. I made sure to properly set the current limit before use on my Wade extruder. Swapped it out with an A4988 from a different set and it worked great. The faulty A4988 also fried the voltage regulator chip on my Mega 2560, but suprisingly, somehow, I can still print with it all day long...

Interesting - A4988's actually have a higher amperage rating than the driver chips on Stepoko, which drives NEMA23. So ATP, I didn't even need to buy the TB6600 drivers for my diy CNC router and could have saved 100 bucks in driver cash. I'm doing fine with the A4988 on Ramps/Mega 2560.


----------



## Randy

IGC said:


> I'v actually had a full bran new set of A4988 drivers be completely faulty / overheat and fry. I made sure to properly set the current limit before use on my Wade extruder. Swapped it out with an A4988 from a different set and it worked great. The faulty A4988 also fried the voltage regulator chip on my Mega 2560, but suprisingly, somehow, I can still print with it all day long...
> 
> Interesting - A4988's actually have a higher amperage rating than the driver chips on Stepoko, which drives NEMA23. So ATP, I didn't even need to buy the TB6600 drivers for my diy CNC router and could have saved 100 bucks in driver cash. I'm doing fine with the A4988 on Ramps/Mega 2560.



Good to know. 

Yeah, I swapped the drivers and they all started moving an uneven number of steps despite being configured the same and having the amperages set the same. Then none of them would move, then one of them would move with everything else unplugged, then it went back to none of them working at stayed that way. Super fickle.


----------



## IGC

Randy said:


> Good to know.
> 
> Yeah, I swapped the drivers and they all started moving an uneven number of steps despite being configured the same and having the amperages set the same. Then none of them would move, then one of them would move with everything else unplugged, then it went back to none of them working at stayed that way. Super fickle.



Similar, I'v had issues with using the exact same Marlin firmware on one manufacturers Mega 2560 to another manufacturers version. Supposed to be the same...


----------



## Randy

IGC said:


> Similar, I'v had issues with using the exact same Marlin firmware on one manufacturers Mega 2560 to another manufacturers version. Supposed to be the same...



Follow up on this.

Finally got this thing working reliably and even got homing and limiters functioning.

Couple things...

1.) I ordered another Arduino Uno+CNC Shield +A4988 set. Got everything installed and it still acted exactly the same aka not working.

2.) What I realized was that I was using OpenBuilds to flash GRBL. It turns out it flashes 1.1 and the CNC Shield I have is only compatible with 0.9 and under. So I reflashed it with 0.9j using the Arduino SDK.

After that, stepper control became consistent and reliable. I haven't fine tuned the amperage to the drivers but gave them a quarter turn from stock and they seem to be happy.

3.) Limit switches were throwing constant alarm code. After messing with it, I figured out that that my switches are C-NO-NC and I had them wires to default closed, when it should be open and close when triggered.

Even after fixing that, still has constant alarms. After unplugging and plugging stuff in, I realized X and Y worked, Z didn't. I rewired them a half dozen times, changed the switches and still the same result.

After googling, I found out vanilla CNC Shield v3.0 is actually designed for GRBL 0.8c and the pinout is different for 0.9j that I'm running. There is no bottom Z limiter, and the top Z attaches to the spindle activation pins. After changing that it works 100% 

Will post some pics/vids when I put the guts back in.


----------



## Randy

Forgive that some of this is in vertical, I shot a few of these for Insta but figured they were relevant so I'd throw them in


----------



## IGC

Randy said:


> 3.) Limit switches were throwing constant alarm code. After messing with it, I figured out that that my switches are C-NO-NC and I had them wires to default closed, when it should be open and close when triggered.
> 
> Even after fixing that, still has constant alarms. After unplugging and plugging stuff in, I realized X and Y worked, Z didn't. I rewired them a half dozen times, changed the switches and still the same result.




I had limit switch problems too. They kept re-setting my Mega 2560 when trying to home. Turns out that since I was duplicating the original/fully functional way my 3d printer is wired up, loaded with Makerbot limit switches, the Makerbot limit switches somehow have a different wiring configuration than the switches that came in the new Mega 2560 3d printer kit - Elegoo? ...cheapest one on Amazon with A4988 drivers Ramps and limit switches etc. Anyhow I ended up flipping the L.S. plugs 180 Deg. , plugging them back in and it works flawlessly. Also the wires are now true to any color coded wiring diagrams I was able to find on line - Mendel Max 1.5.

With Arduino IDE, I modded the Marlin firmware print bed size to the metric conversion of 20 x 24 inches (configuration h) and selected the option to switch the second extruder plug on Ramps to a second -Y- axis motor drive plug, (config additional h) also selected the setting to have the two -Y- drive motors spin opposite eachother (config additional h ?) I also modded the firmware for direct drive -Z- leadscrew and re-flashed. All is well


----------



## IGC

IGC said:


> I had limit switch problems too. They kept re-setting my Mega 2560 when trying to home. Turns out that since I was duplicating the original/fully functional way my 3d printer is wired up, loaded with Makerbot limit switches, the Makerbot limit switches somehow have a different wiring configuration than the switches that came in the new Mega 2560 3d printer kit - Elegoo? ...cheapest one on Amazon with A4988 drivers Ramps and limit switches etc. Anyhow I ended up flipping the L.S. plugs 180 Deg. , plugging them back in and it works flawlessly. Also the wires are now true to any color coded wiring diagrams I was able to find on line - Mendel Max 1.5.
> 
> With Arduino IDE, I modded the Marlin firmware print bed size to the metric conversion of 20 x 24 inches (configuration h) and selected the option to switch the second extruder plug on Ramps to a second -Y- axis motor drive plug, (config additional h) also selected the setting to have the two -Y- drive motors spin opposite eachother (config additional h ?) I also modded the firmware for direct drive -Z- leadscrew and re-flashed. All is well


----------



## IGC

IGC said:


>





I made the router last year, also got around to finishing this guitar, all pics are in my basement practise space etc.


----------



## High Plains Drifter

Not at all comparable to the killer stuff that you guys are doing, making actual guitars and necks with big equip, routers, cnc, etc. But figured I'd share my most recent project anyway. 

Picked up a cheap bass recently and had to immediately upgrade the vol pot. The other pots are okay for now with a little DeoxIT flush. But these mini pots are about the crappiest I've ever seen and the vol was either 'ON' or 'OFF'.. no gradual taper. Replaced it with a CTS 250k audio mini and utilized a spare cap leg as a signal ground jumper. Came out really well... I think actually a better solder job than factory which makes me feel good. 

I also had to enlarge the body's vol shaft hole by 1.45mm... starting with a small Dremel sanding drum around the top edge of the hole ( almost beveling it) so that I wouldn't risk chipping the paint when switching to the drill bit. Came out perfect. Anyway... That was about it but always feels good to be able to do these projects myself. Thanks for taking a look. 

New CTS pot ready to go in after de-soldering the original HONGH pot...





CTS pot all soldered in and ready to go into the guitar...





A little unsettling but gotta super-size that hole lol...





Finished and looks great... the white crescent is light reflection fwiw...





I would've done a nicer job tidying up the wiring but without changing out all three pots, this was the best I could do...





Done and done...


----------



## ZXIIIT

More info here,
https://www.sevenstring.org/threads/can-this-ibanez-jem-be-saved.347095/


----------



## Randy

High Plains Drifter said:


> Not at all comparable to the killer stuff that you guys are doing, making actual guitars and necks with big equip, routers, cnc, etc. But figured I'd share my most recent project anyway.
> 
> Picked up a cheap bass recently and had to immediately upgrade the vol pot. The other pots are okay for now with a little DeoxIT flush. But these mini pots are about the crappiest I've ever seen and the vol was either 'ON' or 'OFF'.. no gradual taper. Replaced it with a CTS 250k audio mini and utilized a spare cap leg as a signal ground jumper. Came out really well... I think actually a better solder job than factory which makes me feel good.
> 
> I also had to enlarge the body's vol shaft hole by 1.45mm... starting with a small Dremel sanding drum around the top edge of the hole ( almost beveling it) so that I wouldn't risk chipping the paint when switching to the drill bit. Came out perfect. Anyway... That was about it but always feels good to be able to do these projects myself. Thanks for taking a look.
> 
> New CTS pot ready to go in after de-soldering the original HONGH pot...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CTS pot all soldered in and ready to go into the guitar...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little unsettling but gotta super-size that hole lol...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finished and looks great... the white crescent is light reflection fwiw...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would've done a nicer job tidying up the wiring but without changing out all three pots, this was the best I could do...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Done and done...



Super clean work. 



ZXIIIT said:


> More info here,
> https://www.sevenstring.org/threads/can-this-ibanez-jem-be-saved.347095/



Glad to see you had success with it, looks 100000x better.


----------



## Randy

Had my first successful cut without breaking shit. Single saddle protype.


----------



## ZXIIIT

Randy said:


> Super clean work.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see you had success with it, looks 100000x better.



Thank you! Luckily the paint was intact, for the most part!


----------



## Randy

Finally getting consistent cuts with the Proxxon. Turned everything down, slower, shallower, less stepover and it stopped breaking bits. 




Put them in the polisher to get the finish more consistent. This is after 2 hours




I'm really digging this finish for my purposes. Matte aluminum and I don't hate that some of the tooling is visible to set it apart from a cast piece. I'll prolly try a couple more hours on the tumbler to get out a few more scratches but I'm 99% set with this.


----------



## IGC

Randy said:


> Finally getting consistent cuts with the Proxxon. Turned everything down, slower, shallower, less stepover and it stopped breaking bits.
> 
> View attachment 92590
> 
> 
> Put them in the polisher to get the finish more consistent. This is after 2 hours
> 
> View attachment 92591
> 
> 
> I'm really digging this finish for my purposes. Matte aluminum and I don't hate that some of the tooling is visible to set it apart from a cast piece. I'll prolly try a couple more hours on the tumbler to get out a few more scratches but I'm 99% set with this.



Spray a little WD40 into the cut for lube, if you havn't tried some other form of coolant.


----------



## Randy

IGC said:


> Spray a little WD40 into the cut for lube, if you havn't tried some other form of coolant.



I've been drizzling this stuff at the corners and anywhere with ramps/plunges.

I'm not having too much issue with heat, but it helps with chip removal sorta. Vacuum pulls chips out steady where it's totally clean when you go dry, when you use the lube they clump and stick to surfaces, which isn't great down in slots but I do it anyway and just have to do a lot more vacuuming and drizzling.

I went from breaking three bits trying to make one baseplate to cutting five plates with one end mill, which is nice. I can probably up my depths and speeds a little but time isn't a huge factor at this point since I'm doing low numbers and it's fairly automated at this point, so I keep busy doing other stuff while it's working. Only thing left is to fab up a drip/fogger type rig and I think I can just hit 'go' and let it go.




Edit: I also might lower RPM a little.


----------



## TonyFlyingSquirrel

I’m in the process of re building my entire work area, new toolbox, new cabinets, new workbench, dedicated stations.

https://www.facebook.com/THE-Guitar...Lx17DuDcURvTJLppaQHraKxj9kOPpP6e4&__tn__=R]-R


----------



## IGC

Randy said:


> I've been drizzling this stuff at the corners and anywhere with ramps/plunges.
> 
> I'm not having too much issue with heat, but it helps with chip removal sorta. Vacuum pulls chips out steady where it's totally clean when you go dry, when you use the lube they clump and stick to surfaces, which isn't great down in slots but I do it anyway and just have to do a lot more vacuuming and drizzling.
> 
> I went from breaking three bits trying to make one baseplate to cutting five plates with one end mill, which is nice. I can probably up my depths and speeds a little but time isn't a huge factor at this point since I'm doing low numbers and it's fairly automated at this point, so I keep busy doing other stuff while it's working. Only thing left is to fab up a drip/fogger type rig and I think I can just hit 'go' and let it go.
> 
> View attachment 92610
> 
> 
> Edit: I also might lower RPM a little.





Sounds good Randy, have you checked out coolant misters? They can blow out the chips and deliver coolant at the same time, if you have an air compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SBVZMMY/?tag=sevenstringorg-20


----------



## Randy

Oo daddy like. 

New toy incoming btw, will hopefully have something fun to post next week.


----------



## ChAoZ

Some progress on my headless 8 string multiscale build


----------



## Randy

New thing came in.




Made a couple test cuts.



Turned a couple of knobs to go with a couple of builds I have in progress. Really happy with the results.


----------



## ElRay

Randy said:


> Had my first successful cut without breaking shit. ...


What "stuff" did it take to get to this point? Also, if you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost? I see the milling machine for just under $400, but what about the rest?


----------



## Randy

ElRay said:


> What "stuff" did it take to get to this point? Also, if you don't mind me asking, about how much did it cost? I see the milling machine for just under $400, but what about the rest?



Outside of the mill itself

- 3D printed parts (X,Y,Z which are each made of two or three parts); those were done in PLA
- NEMA 17 stepper motors
- Mini Limit Switches (directions called for 6 but you only need 3, and just set soft limit for the + positions)
- Arduino+CNC Shield v3+Drivers
- Power Supply (12V 10A max)
- Assorted wiring (mostly Dupont connector single wires, assorted male and female, some will need to be snipped and soldered)
- Shaft Couplers 5mm to 4mm (need to be drilled out on one side because the Proxxon lead screws are funky diameter)
- Shaft collars
- Bearings (626, basically skateboard bearings)
- Assorted screws/nuts/bolts

Pretty much everything came from Amazon. I don't remember exact costs and I ordered some of the wrong stuff and had to buy other stuff, so I think I was into the conversion about $150 give-or-take after having the right stuff and returning what I could.

Came with no bits, so those were just 1/8" square end milling bits, also Amazon I think like 6 pack for $20 or something like that. I've also been using some 1/16" with 1/8" shank, similar kinda price but you get more for the price obv.

That's what it took out of the box to hook it up to a computer and make cuts. 

Chip control is imperfect, so expect you'll have oily metal shit all over the place no matter what, which isn't ideal with wires and open control boards. So some kind of container and wire management is somewhat necessary. Since the last pics/vids, I printed a CNC shield enclosure, routed the wires to determine what lengths were necessary for the bed travel, zip tied them and wound them up in a spiral wrap. That was only like $10 worth of stuff but worth it because cleanup is way easier and you can actually put it away/take it out, so it doesn't need a dedicated workstation.

Toolpaths are being done in Fusion 360, G-code sending is done through UGS which is essentially all freeware. I don't love UGS (I'm used to using Carbide Motion) but once you get down your macros, it's very useable. The CNC Shield you get on Amazon runs Grbl 0.9 and I think Fusion+UGS don't love it, so I often get errors but they just pause the process and you gotta hit 'go' a couple times to get it cutting again; mostly in the very beginning, after the first few passes it usually goes without any hiccups. Methinks a nicer newer Shield running 1.1 will run a little smoother.


----------



## Randy

The conversion files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33799

Conversion walkthrough


CNC Shield Case
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3125495

I made the mistake of using a smaller case first and there's way too many wires to fit in a compact box. You endanger unplugging or cross wiring shit if your box is too small. This is a big one but it's 'just right' after all your wires are there. You don't need all those buttons and shit, there's a vanilla version with no button holes.

You can run the power to a tip/sleeve 12v style plug for quick connect assembly but I opted to just run the wires out with the rest of them, and two allen screws to attach them to the PS when you take it out to use. I had some weird bottlenecking my amperage through the plugs I tested that were really more troubel than they were worth.

Case has mounting space for a PC fan. Ironically, I think it's prolly more necessary in a 3D print type arrangement than with the mill, despite the fact you're cutting metal. The 3D printer runs for several hours at a time, the mill usually runs a lot less, you're also not working the motors super hard because the mill is doing all the work, if the motors are "overworked" then you're breaking bits anyway. So I think cooling fan is somewhat optional.


----------



## Randy

Final thoughts on the Proxxon as a build platform:

It has some limitations. The max Y dimensions are a VERY generous 1.5" but keep in mind that also needs to be enough for the diameter of the bit to pass around the outside, plus the extra 1mm or so for the clearance on the limit switch. So your models really max at 1.35" unless you're tiling. There are options to expand the Y; before I did the CNC conversion, I homebrewed a 2" Y conversion so you can arguably mash the two of them up.

The motor is also not very strong, so all the times I broke bits were because I programmed my paths too fast/deep and the motor bogged down and seized and the NEMA's are actually strong enough to just snap the bit in half if its not cutting.

There are conversion videos online where people use quadcopter or RC brushless motors but it starts to fuck with the spindle power supply so now you need an external PS and controller that bulks up the project a lot. I also question how much those motors can handle running for hours at a time since quads and RC typically max at about 20min runtime.

Some of those conversions also up the max bit sized to 1/4" but again, with the limited Y, now you have to account for the larger diameter. The 1/8" honestly moves really quick anyway TBH.

So I think someone using the Proxxon is better off sticking to the stock spindle and just learning to work to it's abilities. I went from breaking three bits on one project to now cutting a dozen without breaking another bit. 

EDIT: OH! Other thing, only thing I'd change is I'd consider dual shaft NEMA 17s. Would take some modifying but if you went with those, you can attach the wheel adjustments to the second shaft, so you can still use the mill manually. I've seen a few people do similar with the bigger Grizzle/HF conversions and it's nice to still be able to zip some cuts by hand if you need to.


----------



## ElRay

Randy said:


> Final thoughts on the Proxxon as a build platform:...


Thanks. 

Next batch of questions:

How do we book CNC time?
What are your rates?
What format do yo want the files in?


----------



## Randy

ElRay said:


> Thanks.
> 
> Next batch of questions:
> 
> How do we book CNC time?
> What are your rates?
> What format do yo want the files in?



Credit app incoming.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Finally gonna finish this thing.


----------



## TonyFlyingSquirrel

Shop updates.
https://www.facebook.com/THE-Guitar-Whisperer-464936657037715/news_feed


----------



## Randy

Doing more hardware stuff.

I've been prototyping a million overcomplicated headless hardware setups, then spent a few days playing my Kleinberger and decided the original design is good enough, why not build on that.

Milled this piece put of 6061. Tweaks from the original design is that it's top mounted (a la Hipshot) and I've integrated the string lockdown screws (on my Kleinberger I had to mount a separate piece for that). 

I'm happy with the results. I re-modeled it with a smidge more meat on the bass side but otherwise, I think I'm cool with running a few of these off for some builds.


----------



## Randy

Also in the middle of a quick and dirty repair on an '89 Squier Bullet Strat.

Had post lean which was quickly revealed to be from the entire block peeling free from the rest of the body. I've actually dealt with this before, I decided to route an oversized recess and fill it to make sure it cleared any of the compromised wood and also had enough points of contact for a strong, clean glue up.


----------



## tender_insanity

I did this. JS-1 refinish


----------



## Gain_Junkie93

Snapchat-1885145133



__ Gain_Junkie93
__ Jun 12, 2021


















Snapchat-1072411800



__ Gain_Junkie93
__ Jun 12, 2021


















Snapchat-940507840



__ Gain_Junkie93
__ Jun 12, 2021





Pointy things


----------



## Randy

Just about done with this one.


----------



## ElRay

tender_insanity said:


> I did this. JS-1 refinish
> 
> View attachment 94548


What did you use? Does it come in a "Burnt Copper"?


----------



## dmlinger

Man, it has been way too long since I've been active on here. Blame it on the TX winter storm and the mess it made of my house.

Anyways, I ordered 3 sheets of paisley waterslide paper from Rothko and Frost a while back. It was just delivered. Got blue, pink, and purple. Planning on using some of it on a 6 string build I'm about to start shooting. I'd like to do paisley under a color with a relic. Send me some votes for what color paper and what color nitro! 

Also have the 7 string ready for sanding sealer. It's getting a holo flake on white with matching headstock. No fun pictures for now, but posting this for extra accountability since I've been so slack lately.


----------



## Randy

H-S tele covers in walnut


----------



## tender_insanity

ElRay said:


> What did you use? Does it come in a "Burnt Copper"?



Automotive paint mixed into a spray can in a store.

Here it is in the of my latest videos


----------



## 8STRINGS

fresh off the bench!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Just finished this monstrosity of a desk.




Which included building these rack cases


----------



## Randy

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Just finished this monstrosity of a desk.
> 
> View attachment 94971
> 
> 
> Which included building these rack cases
> 
> View attachment 94972



Keyboard slideout is awesome

What did you do for the joints on the rack cases? I had to make some a few years back because they had to be odd sizes, I just butt jointed them together with glue and wood screws, then after they dried I backed the screws out, drilled and dowel pinned the holes so that I could use a roundover. Was surprisingly strong.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Randy said:


> Keyboard slideout is awesome
> 
> What did you do for the joints on the rack cases? I had to make some a few years back because they had to be odd sizes, I just butt jointed them together with glue and wood screws, then after they dried I backed the screws out, drilled and dowel pinned the holes so that I could use a roundover. Was surprisingly strong.


Funny you should ask! I actually did my very first ever non-screwed joint. Just a spline I cut on my newly-tuned table saw. 




Not the cleanest work but it worked! And I think they're pretty strong.


----------



## Gain_Junkie93

Alien blood splatter, since Ibanez took away the novelty of a having a flat black Xiphos 7 string with a trem....


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Gain_Junkie93 said:


> Alien blood splatter, since Ibanez took away the novelty of a having a flat black Xiphos 7 string with a trem....
> View attachment 94990


That's dope as hell


----------



## skullfxr

For the first time in months there is NOTHING on my bench today. I am taking the day off.


----------



## Gain_Junkie93

Wasn't happy with the initial paintjob so I redid it with a better red and painted the v to match. Very happy with the way the blood splatter came out on the v but something about the xiphos just looks like it's missing something(maybe another color splatter?) . I noticed that the xiphos has a lot more small splatter marks and less of the squirty looking marks. Idk I'll probably clearcoat(spraymax matte) both unless I think of a more titillating finish for the xiphos. Kinda tempted to do a blood red finish with black splatter patterns on something.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Gain_Junkie93 said:


> Wasn't happy with the initial paintjob so I redid it with a better red and painted the v to match. Very happy with the way the blood splatter came out on the v but something about the xiphos just looks like it's missing something(maybe another color splatter?) . I noticed that the xiphos has a lot more small splatter marks and less of the squirty looking marks. Idk I'll probably clearcoat(spraymax matte) both unless I think of a more titillating finish for the xiphos. Kinda tempted to do a blood red finish with black splatter patterns on something.


Agree that the V came out a little better with less and bigger marks. Just a matter of taste though, awesome job mate!


----------



## Lemonbaby

After several months of fiddling around with other projects, I picked up my unfinished multiscale 7-string guitar and slapped on a blue/purple fade.


----------



## ChAoZ

Been working on my headless multiscale 8 string, pickup cavities routed, fretted in stainless and glow in the dark inlay added at 12th fret


----------



## Lemonbaby

Had some time to finish my new 7 today, here's a few potato-cam snapshots. Swamp-ash body w/ flamed maple top, Aftermath 7 set w/ SD Blackouts Preamp, Hipshot hardware, maple/PaoFerro neck, ebony ferret and headstock top.


----------



## ZXIIIT

Waiting for parts, roughly inspired by Head's Woodstock '99 RG7620.


----------



## skullfxr

Crown, polish, and a new nut on my 1989 MIJ Fender Strat.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Almost done, still needs some minor adjustment work...


----------



## Gain_Junkie93

Splatty Boiz



__ Gain_Junkie93
__ Jul 22, 2021


----------



## aesthyrian

Yeah, we're gonna need a full thread on those bad boys. Are they both modded RG762x?


----------



## Gain_Junkie93

Yes


----------



## JK-PA

I started a crackle refinish on a pretty beaten up Kramer Vanguard. 













20210720_184659



__ JK-PA
__ Jul 24, 2021


















InShot_20210723_173703312



__ JK-PA
__ Jul 24, 2021


----------



## Lemonbaby

Took the tuners off today and routed the individual heights to match the fretboard radius. The height adjustment of the tuners isn't really solid. Plays a better now and sounds nice, wired up the electronics as well. I use the soapbars with serial coils at the moment, but the split coil sound is just thin and hollow. Might make more sense to add a switching scheme for changing from serial to parallel coils.


----------



## skullfxr

I refinished this and am dropping in some SD Blackouts. It's a Money green with a raw Oiled neck.


----------



## Gain_Junkie93




----------



## Randy

Quick and dirty project I've been working on to use as a platform for testing pickups. Splice will be interchangeable with different pickup configs.

SSO won't let me embed the videos because they're shorts apparently but here they are incase you're interested

https://youtube.com/shorts/5lSDH4Y5sa4?feature=share

https://youtube.com/shorts/QJP1_MwBASA?feature=share


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Randy said:


> Quick and dirty project I've been working on to use as a platform for testing pickups. Splice will be interchangeable with different pickup configs.
> 
> SSO won't let me embed the videos because they're shorts apparently but here they are incase you're interested
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/5lSDH4Y5sa4?feature=share
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/QJP1_MwBASA?feature=share
> 
> View attachment 96205


there's a dude on kickstarter with a similar idea, where he just quick swaps the chunk of wood holding all the electronics including jacks/pots.


----------



## Randy

KnightBrolaire said:


> there's a dude on kickstarter with a similar idea, where he just quick swaps the chunk of wood holding all the electronics including jacks/pots.



I've seen a couple variations on the theme here and there, @USMarine75 sent me one a couple weeks ago idk if it was SD or someone else but it appeared the pickups slide in from underneath.

I've flirted with a few ideals like a pickguard, floating trem to remove strings on the fly, putting them in from the back etc. This seemed like the most convenient/flexible compromise I could come up with. I'm kind of a tonewood skeptic but theres an option for different wood inserts for shiggles.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Randy said:


> I've seen a couple variations on the theme here and there, @USMarine75 sent me one a couple weeks ago idk if it was SD or someone else but it appeared the pickups slide in from underneath.
> 
> I've flirted with a few ideals like a pickguard, floating trem to remove strings on the fly, putting them in from the back etc. This seemed like the most convenient/flexible compromise I could come up with. I'm kind of a tonewood skeptic but theres an option for different wood inserts for shiggles.


Here's the link if you want to take a look at his idea. 
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...wood-modular-guitar?ref=discovery&term=guitar


----------



## Gain_Junkie93




----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Finally cleaned my damn shop. Now I can do some projects again.


----------



## migstopheles

I'm an old man now, so I decided to build an old man guitar







Thinline tele, 3 piece ash body, birdseye maple fretboard and a roasted flame maple neck. Will be putting a humbucker size P90 in the neck and probably a lollar gold foil in the bridge


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Building myself a modular synth from scratch. Made the case a couple days ago. Now I'm working on a power supply module.


----------



## morgdav

The epoxy filled cracks in the top will serve as a reminder not to clamp the edge after steam bending...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Made a front panel for my synth power module.



Coat of white spray paint, wrote the legends with thin sharpie, clear coat over it (thin mists so the sharpie wouldn't run)


----------



## saved

here comes the boom..!!


----------



## KnightBrolaire

Got bored and decided to make a gunstock war club out of some spare walnut I had. I'm not totally done with it but the oiled walnut was too purdy not to share.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> Got bored and decided to make a gunstock war club out of some spare walnut I had. I'm not totally done with it but the oiled walnut was too purdy not to share.


What is a gunstock war club?

Is it literally just a war club that looks like a gun stock?


----------



## KnightBrolaire

LiveOVErdrive said:


> What is a gunstock war club?
> 
> Is it literally just a war club that looks like a gun stock?


yeah pretty much. Multiple native american tribes across the USA used them a lot in 17-19th centuries both for ceremony and fighting. There's a lot of neat examples with jackknives, kitchen knives and other variations for the spike, and the wood is usually whatever's native to where it was made.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

KnightBrolaire said:


> yeah pretty much. Multiple native american tribes across the USA used them a lot in 17-19th centuries both for ceremony and fighting. There's a lot of neat examples with jackknives, kitchen knives and other variations for the spike, and the wood is usually whatever's native to where it was made.


Super cool


----------



## Soya

Decided to try something different and build up a snare drum. 14x6.5 maple staves, 3/8 shell thickness. Glue up wasn't perfect nor were the bearing edges as perfect as I wanted but with a bit of black stain it looks alright. Pleasantly surprised with the sound as well, good sensitivity and plenty of thump. Also waaaaay easier than building a damn guitar.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> Decided to try something different and build up a snare drum. 14x6.5 maple staves, 3/8 shell thickness. Glue up wasn't perfect nor were the bearing edges as perfect as I wanted but with a bit of black stain it looks alright. Pleasantly surprised with the sound as well, good sensitivity and plenty of thump. Also waaaaay easier than building a damn guitar.
> View attachment 97105
> View attachment 97106
> View attachment 97107
> View attachment 97108


I meant to comment on this earlier. So damn cool. I'd love to hear it in a mix if you ever get a chance.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Got the neck blank and the fretboard planed to size. Ordered some material for the inlays. Just about time to start milling the neck. I'm terrified.


----------



## Randy

Fear is the perfect disposition.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Randy said:


> Fear is the perfect disposition.


Yeah. When you're super tense and agitated, that's the best way to not make mistakes!


----------



## Soya

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I meant to comment on this earlier. So damn cool. I'd love to hear it in a mix if you ever get a chance.


Thanks! However the only recording equipment I have is a cell phone so I don't think I can comply with your request heh.


----------



## migstopheles

the old man guitar is getting there, after a few blunderous mishaps


----------



## skullfxr

This is a 1997 ESP Eclipse that I refinished in white nitro. First time using Nitro, I will post up some more pics.


----------



## IGC

I've been chipping away at this little by little here and there on the weekends since early 21. It's a for me. Padauk top, ash body, katalox and P.H. neck/ F.B. Scale lengths will be 26.5 x 24.75, fret zero being square.


----------



## JK-PA

Rerouted my 85 Epiphone Rock Bass to fit a Musicman style brick.
Went pretty well for doing it the very first time. 




Just needs a new pickguard now.


----------



## TonyFlyingSquirrel

Nothing pic worthy, adding a midi mod to a POG pedal.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Hel


JK-PA said:


> Rerouted my 85 Epiphone Rock Bass to fit a Musicman style brick.
> Went pretty well for doing it the very first time.
> View attachment 106414
> View attachment 106415
> 
> 
> Just needs a new pickguard now.


Hell yes. Love a MM bass sound.


----------



## JK-PA

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Hel
> 
> Hell yes. Love a MM bass sound.


It's a whole different bass now!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

JK-PA said:


> It's a whole different bass now!


I really want to try doing a J bass with two p pickups instead of J. I wonder if the bridge would have kind of a MM sound or kind of it's own thing. 

Great for slap either way I'm sure.


----------



## KnightBrolaire

prob getting hit with turquoise sparkle. Or I could do a snowfall/arctic sunset sparkle hmmm


----------



## JK-PA

Put a new pickguard on my bass today


----------



## Ant78

Working on another partscaster build. This is my first attempt at dyeing a flamed maple top with tru oil finish.


----------



## Crungy

That looks killer!


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Ant78 said:


> Working on another partscaster build. This is my first attempt at dyeing a flamed maple top with tru oil finish.
> 
> View attachment 107197


Holy crap that's beautiful. Love the single hum too.


----------



## wheresthefbomb

Just cleaned out an old Peavey XR400 mixer/amp. It was a huge pain to take apart, no single chassis like most amp heads. We had to remove every knob, fader, and washer/nut on every pot and jack to separate the face plate and PCB. My friend came over and help because of my wrist issues. I gave him directions/micromanaged while being only marginally annoying, taught him how to clean out the pots jacks faders etc with deoxit. Then had him play guitar through it well I twisted all the knobs and tested all the jacks. Basically every pot and every jack was trashy before, they would pop/cut out often and there were lots of volume loss issues. Not a single scratch to be heard now.

Next weekend we will be applying the same treatment to an ancient PV wedge monitor.


----------



## aberg

Ready for staining.


----------



## Ant78

Finished up this build over the weekend. Body is pine with a flamed maple top, Wilkenson Tele bridge, Suhr Thornbucker+ with a push-pull coil tap, locking tuners, and a mighty mite neck.


----------



## IGC

I made this test cut in some pine with the Arduino cnc router I made. It took around 10 minutes to cut through to .75" deep. Looking forward to cutting some nicer woods. Thinking about some multi -lam semi hollow body type stuff.


----------



## dmlinger

Because this is technically what's on my workbench today. 

One-piece korina body and an ebony top. Sanded the rest of the glue off the joint after this was taken and glued it up. I'll put more photos over in my build thread once it starts to look like a guitar.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

I'm in the midst of setting up my new workshop in my new house. It's a nice shed attached to the garage. I'm pulling in a 20A and 15A circuit from the two circuits in the garage, and I've added shop lights and overhead lumber storage. This is gonna be a really nice setup compared to my old one.





Next step is organizing and building some new shop furniture. Need a new base for my router table and table saw, as well as a new workbench. Gonna put them all on locking leveling casters so I can roll them wherever, and have them all the same height for infeed/outfeed purposes.


----------



## Lemonbaby

I ordered an El Cheapo Strat body and neck from AliExpress. My plan is a slightly reliced beater and the neck's already finished. Had to level, polish and dress the frets, but for 32 Euros it's really not a bad neck (also comes with a two way trussrod). The body arrived today and I saw that I'll have to fix the neck pocket because it's 1.5mm too wide. The loaded S-S-S Wilkinson pickguard was actually more expensive than body and neck in total. I'll be using a Wilkinson PRS style vintage vibrato, but aging that chrome hardware is annoying.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Finished my budget relic project today. For my first "road-worn-in-30-minutes" project, it came out nicely. The cheap WIlkinson pickups sound a little ice-ipcky, as they're built with ceramic magnets. Other than that, I'm a happy camper. The total build cost me roughly 290 Euros.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Finally doing some woodworking in my new shop. I need to build myself a new bench. Which means I need a new base for my table saw and router table so I can build it properly. 

But first I need a crosscut sled to make those bases. So I built that. 




Works great. So then I could cut all the dados for the lapover joints that'll make up the new table saw base. 




Awesome. But I can't glue it up yet because I need some kind of corner joint for the cross braces. So I made a screw-advanced stop block that I can use to make box joints with my crosscut sled. Quick build, and it works great! 




Test piece:



I am loving this. Never really used my table saw before, despite inheriting it seven years ago. It's awesome. 

Got a safety and dust feature to add to my sled next. Then I'm gonna dial in the box joint methodology a bit more and finish this thing up. In the end it'll look like this.


----------



## JSil13

This is my first post on this forum, but I've been reading a bunch on here for awhile. I don't think the guys at TDPRI are too into this build. Most of my builds have been weird mixes of different guitars. Tele/firebird, non reverse Firebird/Jazzmaster, non reverse firebird/Danelectro baritone etc.

I've been recording a lot of blackened thrash kind of stuff lately and wanted a second guitar to compliment my Schecter CR-6. So I got a cheap basswood blank and made up this Voyager/Random Star kind of thing. I wanted something I could play in the normal position, but also classical position like all my old V's. It's going to get the Schecter bridge pickup that I'm swapping with Black Winters and the tuners that I replaced with Hipshot open gear Grip Locks. The neck is going to be a 24 fret Warmoth Arcade and the bridge is a Hipshot hardtail.

I've since routed the neck pocket, but I'm waiting until I have the neck to move forward.





Some of my other builds.


----------



## ChAoZ

Final setup on this beast


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

ChAoZ said:


> Final setup on this beast
> 
> View attachment 111428


Woah


----------



## dmlinger

I've been using some fret cutters that I got from Bitter Root Guitars a few years ago. They were something like $17 and they do the trick. However, they require a ton of effort to cut stainless which is what I use exclusively.

Fast forward to today when these sweet Hosco Stainless cutters arrived in my mailbox. $41 and got free shipping because I bought some other necessities from Philadelphia Luthier. These things cut like butter! 



https://www.philadelphialuthiertools.com/luthier-tools/pliers/hosco-stainless-steel-fret-cutter/


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Glued up my table saw base. Hoping to get it finished up tomorrow. 




Then it's onto more shop furniture and storage.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Glued up my table saw base. Hoping to get it finished up tomorrow.
> 
> View attachment 111574
> 
> 
> Then it's onto more shop furniture and storage.


I got it finished up. Next step, figure out how to attach my table saw... That screws down from the inside.


----------



## Lemonbaby

After several years of playing through Helix only, I purchased a used Vox AV30 some weeks ago. I like its clean sounds, but had to add pedals for distortion and fuzz. A Sonicake Wave Crush is already on the way to be added to the pre-input chain. The integrated reverb's very subtle so I got a Walrus Fathom for the FX loop and added a looper at the end. All that stuff with the cables looked very messy so I grabbed a birch multiplex and did a Q&D pedal board build with a 5x9V Harley Benton power supply mounted on the bottom side. Still waiting for the adhesive velcro tapes to arrive so I can mount the pedals...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Lemonbaby said:


> After several years of playing through Helix only, I purchased a used Vox AV30 some weeks ago. I like its clean sounds, but had to add pedals for distortion and fuzz. A Sonicake Wave Crush is already on the way to be added to the pre-input chain. The integrated reverb's very subtle so I got a Walrus Fathom for the FX loop and added a looper at the end. All that stuff with the cables looked very messy so I grabbed a birch multiplex and did a Q&D pedal board build with a 5x9V Harley Benton power supply mounted on the bottom side. Still waiting for the adhesive velcro tapes to arrive so I can mount the pedals...


Really clean looking work. Nice!


----------



## Lemonbaby

Pedal board finished. Just needs one more cable with angled connector for the FX send to come through the backside. And more pedals, of course.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Lemonbaby said:


> Pedal board finished. Just needs one more cable with angled connector for the FX send to come through the backside. And more pedals, of course.


Love it. What kind of finish are you putting on it? If any?


----------



## Lemonbaby

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Love it. What kind of finish are you putting on it? If any?



None, too lazy...


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Lemonbaby said:


> None, too lazy...


"road worn"


----------



## electriceye

Lots going on in the shop (more non-guitar stuff, as I'm trying to start my own business), but feeling pretty excited about this LP DC I'm doing. 

Also, as you may notice, I have a CNC machine now.  Still learning how to use it, though.


----------



## c7spheres

LiveOVErdrive said:


> I got it finished up. Next step, figure out how to attach my table saw... That screws down from the inside.
> 
> View attachment 111604


 NIce work. I don't want to bring you down or anything but to attach a table saw to that iand it having non locking casters seems like a potential dangerous thing. Even with locking casters it might not be stable enough. Just saying that sounds sacry to me. I'm also now extremely afraid of routers too after seeding so many people maim themselves on them. I will ive you a table saw if you know someone in AZ to come pick it up. Please be safe.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

c7spheres said:


> NIce work. I don't want to bring you down or anything but to attach a table saw to that iand it having non locking casters seems like a potential dangerous thing. Even with locking casters it might not be stable enough. Just saying that sounds sacry to me. I'm also now extremely afraid of routers too after seeding so many people maim themselves on them. I will ive you a table saw if you know someone in AZ to come pick it up. Please be safe.


Wise concerns. These are double-locking casters however, so when locked down they are totally immobile.


Also: finished product! 



(also speaking of safety, the blade guard is handy, but it's currently set up for crosscuts on my sled, which has its own guard.


----------



## c7spheres

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Wise concerns. These are double-locking casters however, so when locked down they are totally immobile.
> 
> 
> Also: finished product!
> 
> View attachment 111808
> 
> (also speaking of safety, the blade guard is handy, but it's currently set up for crosscuts on my sled, which has its own guard.


 It all makes sense now! haha. I'm still afraid of routers. I never was unitl a couple years ago and always used them since I was a kid, but then I had a to close for comfort call and said to myself "it's not worth it anymore" after a piece of poplar shattered into a million splinters and I nearly took of my finger. I understand table saws have good saftey auto stop features now. I've seen the hot dog test and that's quite impressive.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

c7spheres said:


> It all makes sense now! haha. I'm still afraid of routers. I never was unitl a couple years ago and always used them since I was a kid, but then I had a to close for comfort call and said to myself "it's not worth it anymore" after a piece of poplar shattered into a million splinters and I nearly took of my finger. I understand table saws have good saftey auto stop features now. I've seen the hot dog test and that's quite impressive.


Yeah, but unfortunately that's thus far only available on the Sawstop brand at the moment (in the US anyway. Elsewhere, where patent law is more sensible, Bosch has one as well). They're very expensive, and also very nice saws. Someday! 

Routers are definitely scary. I like the router table a lot because it all feels more stable and safe. I can make sure my hands are in a safe spot at all times and I'm not holding a big heavy thing with a cutter on the end. My next project is essentially this same rolling table but for my router table. I'm very excited to make it happen.


----------



## Soya

Got a line on a great deal on a new surface plate so decided to jump on it. 18x24, more surface scratches than I would like but it has an A grade cert so flat to 50 millionths. Just enough for woodworking heh, look forward to finally having some time back in the garage to use it.


----------



## owlexifry

JSil13 said:


> This is my first post on this forum, but I've been reading a bunch on here for awhile. I don't think the guys at TDPRI are too into this build. Most of my builds have been weird mixes of different guitars. Tele/firebird, non reverse Firebird/Jazzmaster, non reverse firebird/Danelectro baritone etc.
> 
> I've been recording a lot of blackened thrash kind of stuff lately and wanted a second guitar to compliment my Schecter CR-6. So I got a cheap basswood blank and made up this Voyager/Random Star kind of thing. I wanted something I could play in the normal position, but also classical position like all my old V's. It's going to get the Schecter bridge pickup that I'm swapping with Black Winters and the tuners that I replaced with Hipshot open gear Grip Locks. The neck is going to be a 24 fret Warmoth Arcade and the bridge is a Hipshot hardtail.
> 
> I've since routed the neck pocket, but I'm waiting until I have the neck to move forward.


Looking real good so far! i saw this one on TDPRI the other day actually. That site can be a real disappointment. People will post all sorts of super cool and interesting builds, and no one gives a rats. But then someone's drunk uncle will start another 10 billionth thread about something fender / gibson related, another goddamn 5E3 clone, 5F6A, or whatever and everyone gets wet over it.
idk that place feels like a 60s nostalgia hangout for people my dad's age. Having said that, the folks in the DIY amp section are wonderful and have been super helpful for me.

Those firebird/jazzmasters look amazing. great work.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Soya said:


> Got a line on a great deal on a new surface plate so decided to jump on it. 18x24, more surface scratches than I would like but it has an A grade cert so flat to 50 millionths. Just enough for woodworking heh, look forward to finally having some time back in the garage to use it.
> View attachment 112172


Oooh baby that's nice.


----------



## JSil13

owlexifry said:


> Looking real good so far! i saw this one on TDPRI the other day actually. That site can be a real disappointment. People will post all sorts of super cool and interesting builds, and no one gives a rats. But then someone's drunk uncle will start another 10 billionth thread about something fender / gibson related, another goddamn 5E3 clone, 5F6A, or whatever and everyone gets wet over it.
> idk that place feels like a 60s nostalgia hangout for people my dad's age. Having said that, the folks in the DIY amp section are wonderful and have been super helpful for me.
> 
> Those firebird/jazzmasters look amazing. great work.



Thanks man. I still love TDPRI since I pretty much learned everything about building guitars on there, but yeah this isn't a tele or anything Fender adjacent so not too many people are into it. Wait until they see the pointy reversed headstock.

I have made some headway on it. Drilled for the bridge and ferrule holes, routed the neck pocket and pickup cavity, sprayed and sanded the sanding sealer, and just started on the primer coats. If all goes well I might be able to hit the first color coats tomorrow. Speaking of Fender things it's getting painted a charcoal frost like color.


----------



## JSil13

Got the color coats done on the star guitar yesterday. Going to give it a few days before I start hitting it with clear coats. Really liking the color. 





Also wrapping up this black limba dual P90 Telebird. This was the first body that I ever made and it was riddled with mistakes. Things like wrong bridge placement which made it so I couldn't use the tele bridge pickup without using a pickguard. So I moved the bridge and routed the pickup for a humbucker. I also rerouted the neck pocket. I strung it up and played it for a few days after a setup. Now I just need to wire it up. 




I designed a new pickguard for my 1959 Melody Maker as well. The guard that was on it when I got it was huge and very ugly. So I tried to design one similar to what would have been on there. Originally this would have been a single pickup guitar, but sometime in the 60's someone installed P90's from an SG Special. I love this guitar.


----------



## dmlinger

owlexifry said:


> Looking real good so far! i saw this one on TDPRI the other day actually. That site can be a real disappointment. People will post all sorts of super cool and interesting builds, and no one gives a rats. But then someone's drunk uncle will start another 10 billionth thread about something fender / gibson related, another goddamn 5E3 clone, 5F6A, or whatever and everyone gets wet over it.
> idk that place feels like a 60s nostalgia hangout for people my dad's age. Having said that, the folks in the DIY amp section are wonderful and have been super helpful for me.
> 
> Those firebird/jazzmasters look amazing. great work.


Exactly the reason I stopped posting over there. Not everyone is going to like what I build, but it wasn't worth the time and effort to post over there. To your point, I was always baffled at people that would gush over a very poorly executed build that was made of leftover pine and finished with spit. I think it's just an older crowd over there so interests and tastes are different.

I like it better over here at SSO anyways.


----------



## Purelojik

dmlinger said:


> Exactly the reason I stopped posting over there. Not everyone is going to like what I build, but it wasn't worth the time and effort to post over there. To your point, I was always baffled at people that would gush over a very poorly executed build that was made of leftover pine and finished with spit. I think it's just an older crowd over there, so interests and tastes are different.
> 
> I like it better over here at SSO anyways.


It's one of the reasons I love it over here. Everyone is stoked that you're making something, I started here, and people gave me encouragement, advice, tips, and tricks. It's literally how I gained most of my knowledge and confidence building guitars.


----------



## dmlinger

Purelojik said:


> It's one of the reasons I love it over here. Everyone is stoked that you're making something, I started here, and people gave me encouragement, advice, tips, and tricks. It's literally how I gained most of my knowledge and confidence building guitars.


Same!


----------



## JSil13

Shot the last coats of clear today. Going to give it a few weeks before I wetsand and polish it. In the meantime my Warmoth Arcade neck will be here tomorrow. I'll be using tru-oil on the back and painting the headstock to match. I have some Hipshot open gear grip-lok tuners on the way too. I think I've decided to use the Black Winter bridge in this build and maybe pair the Black Winter neck and SD Distortion in my Schecter.


----------



## DistinguishedPapyrus

Did the neck sculpting on my current build a few days ago. Easy really:
1) glue up dead tree carcasses. 
2) cut away everything that's not a guitar.


----------



## aberg

6-string semihollow


----------



## aberg

Inside matters, right?


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

aberg said:


> Inside matters, right?
> 
> View attachment 112880


Coils to cut down on high frequency noise or just to look cool?


----------



## aberg

LiveOVErdrive said:


> Coils to cut down on high frequency noise or just to look cool?


Mostly to give me some wiggle room when inserting it through the small opening to the cavity. But I also liked the way it looked.


----------



## c7spheres

I like the coil idea. You can unwind it when more wire is needed when replacing pots too.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

aberg said:


> Mostly to give me some wiggle room when inserting it through the small opening to the cavity. But I also liked the way it looked.


Really smart. And it looks SO cool. Gonna steal that idea for my next build I think.


----------



## dmlinger

aberg said:


> 6-string semihollow
> 
> View attachment 112790
> View attachment 112789


Love the builds you’ve posted on here. What finish are you shooting?


----------



## aberg

dmlinger said:


> Love the builds you’ve posted on here. What finish are you shooting?


Thanks! Nitro over stain done with alcohol.


----------



## dmlinger

aberg said:


> Thanks! Nitro over stain done with alcohol.


Nice, the wet coat on your headstock is very satisfying haha


----------



## Lemonbaby

Vacation time got a little boring and I decided to build another cheap Partscaster. This time I decided for a blue over Sunburst with honey CBS headplate neck. Parts ordered from AliExpress, body/neck cost me 65 Euros, the loaded SSS pickguard was another 38 bucks. I first had to wet sand the body for another layer of blue (spraycan), then reliced everything to death. Working time was roughly six hours. Trem and tuners incoming, build will be finished this week.


----------



## Lemonbaby

My parts arrived quicker than expected, so I mounted the vibrato, pickguard and tuners today. As you can see, the pickup polepieces are way off. I compared it to my Strat pickguard routing template and it turns out that the pickguard is actually OK, but the CNC program of the body caused the issue! I'll have to make a new one in the next days but stringed the guitar anyway to check how the pickups sound. Still haven't decided if they're somewhat OK or below average - can't complain too much for 38 Euros I guess. Anyway, it plays really well, neck feels nice and the weight is below 3.4kg. The total build cost me around 215 Euros.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Lemonbaby said:


> My parts arrived quicker than expected, so I mounted the vibrato, pickguard and tuners today. As you can see, the pickup polepieces are way off. I compared it to my Strat pickguard routing template and it turns out that the pickguard is actually OK, but the CNC program of the body caused the issue! I'll have to make a new one in the next days but stringed the guitar anyway to check how the pickups sound. Still haven't decided if they're somewhat OK or below average - can't complain too much for 38 Euros I guess. Anyway, it plays really well, neck feels nice and the weight is below 3.4kg. The total build cost me around 215 Euros.


Love it. Super cool.


----------



## aberg

Designed a new label for inside the F-hole. I wanted to do that after it was all assembled so it would have the correct look. Now I will play it!


----------



## Lemonbaby

My partscaster had the bridge saddles adjusted far too low to be comfortable due to the screw heads sticking out of the saddles. The misaligned polepieces also started to freak me out. So after looking at that disaster for two full days, I had to take action. I glued a 2mm layer of Black Limba in the neck pocket and flattened it with my router. Also made a new Mother-of-Toiletseat pickguard and ordered a hot rails pickup for the bridge. Even with a Strat you need some chuggs, right?


----------



## dmlinger

Damn, 2mm is a lot of meat to add to the neck pocket. Have you put it back together? Worst case I guess you take it down more with the router.

If all fails, get yourself a set of shorter height adjustment screws, or grind some material off the bottom of the existing ones.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

That little patch of black limba looks perfect with that chaos relicc'ked body.


----------



## Lemonbaby

dmlinger said:


> Damn, 2mm is a lot of meat to add to the neck pocket. Have you put it back together? Worst case I guess you take it down more with the router.
> 
> If all fails, get yourself a set of shorter height adjustment screws, or grind some material off the bottom of the existing ones.



Worked out nicely, the screws on the high e block just disappeared. Also replaced the pickups for a Roswell blade HB in the bridge and Tonerider Vintage singles for middle and neck.


----------



## JSil13

Attempted my first jointing today. After a router mishap followed by sanding out some tear out I decided to try a method I saw on TDPRI some time back. I used my grandfather's old 4 foot level with some 120 grit sandpaper taped to it and the two maple pieces double sided taped together. I think I was successful. When clamped the seam seemingly disappears. Now I need to find some threads on glue ups. I want to try the tent method.



Here's a picture of it wetted with naphtha with one idea I had. I'm not set on this shape, but I wanted a stratish shape with some more extreme upper horns. The plan is to dye the top black with some transtint. I've had it for awhile, but never used it. So I'll be doing some experiments on the cutoffs. The black limba body blank will be here tomorrow.


----------



## Lemonbaby

@JSil13 Tent method looks quite time consuming to just taping it together.


----------



## JSil13

Here’s the jointed top and the black limba I’ll be using for the body. The first picture of the limba is what I’ll be using as the back. The second picture is what will be getting the top glued to it. I’m hoping that some of that crazy figuring transfers to the sides and some of the carves/bevels.


----------



## Lemonbaby

Yesterday, I had some spare time to fix everything I dislike about my AZES. Never liked both the reduced size concept and the mint colour, pickups also weren't brilliant. Made a new white pickguard that flows farther into the lower horn and exchanged the pickups to a DiMarzio Transition in the bridge and two Area 58s. While I was at it, I rewired the electronics and got rid of the fancy switching overkill Ibanez uses in the AZ series.


----------



## aberg

Usually don't do resprays, but this is for one of those friends you can't say no to. Vintage Silverburst in nitro for an old Ibanez RG.


----------



## dr_game0ver

Just a pair of RG 5320 in Deep forest Green Mettalic (blue) and Cosmic Shadow. The experts that you are have already notice something is wrong on both of these guitars.
Few points: They are 2000$ each, really heavy, dirty as F (i cleaned them) ,the black one already have worn frets, SS frets on a 2021 guitar, and they have a 3 way and a split where a 5 way would be a more logical option...
Also, i hate guitars that have a natural body with a painted top. But i will say that cosmic shadow looks really nice in person.


----------



## Omzig

My Father some how managed to kick over another guitar into my Pink Squire Showmaster while checking out my guitar rack..... it was already kinda fadded and had a few other dings (nothing as bad at the newly inflicted dent/chip) and as i had a can or 2 of Fluro Pink left over from my of HM re/de-finish i thought id Jazz it up a bit  matched the HS as well but still thinking if i want to replace or change the logo type.


----------



## ElRay

dr_game0ver said:


> ... Cosmic Shadow ...


What is that? A photo veneer? A piece of counter-top laminate?

Does it look like it has depth in person?


----------



## aberg

Sprayed logo and last layer of clear.


----------



## dr_game0ver

ElRay said:


> What is that? A photo veneer? A piece of counter-top laminate?
> 
> Does it look like it has depth in person?







Regular black top with some silver flakes all over it. This one looks so much better than the one from the official Ibanez stock pic.
Silver mess would be a better title for that colour. And no it does not have depth or 3D effects to it.


----------



## Klzow

Glue up of body and neck blank for next project. Then surface milled to correct thickness since it no longer fits in the planer.
Looking good so far!

EDIT: not a lefty, just the back of the blank


----------



## JSil13

I've been making headway on this build. Got the body all glued up, carved the front bevel, carved the access contours, and carved the rear contour. I'm currently working on the neck. I got some really nice flame maple and some birdseye maple. I'm using some Macassar ebony for the fretboard which I already got to the correct thickness and slotted.


----------



## JK-PA




----------



## aberg

Making a few switch tips from moose horns.


----------



## aberg




----------



## Soya

Interesting, how does horn thread?


----------



## aberg

It depends a little on what part of the horns. You have to find a nice and solid piece without marrow. Then it can be very hard material that is really nice to work with. I use threaded brass inserts so they will last forever.


----------



## Soya

Ah makes sense.


----------



## JSil13

I've been working on the neck for the past few days. I glued it up yesterday and today I did all the fret work and got the headstock to thickness. I might wait to drill for the tuners until I actually have the tuners on hand. Next up is the neck pocket and then I can get going on the body routes and drilling for the bridge.


----------



## LiveOVErdrive

Today my workbench is on my (temporary) workbench. 




I moved and left my workbench behind so now I'm building a new one. With blackjack and casters!


----------



## gunch

Set the string height on my AXS to a 1.5mm allen wrench at the 12th fret, no buzz on high E or low E, seems kind of high, but does it look alright?


----------



## Lemonbaby

@gunch 1.5mm is already superlow. I never go down that far due to lack of sustain. Even if it doesn't buzz, low string action is always a tradeoff.


----------



## Naxxpipe

I disassembled my Jackson concept JRR-94 yesterday. Will try to fabricate a new pickguard, string plate and pickup hole cover for the neck pickup at work. But additionally I need a fret crowning, a new nut and new bridge saddles.

For the bridge I am hitting a dead end of sorts. The guitar has an unmarked TOM style bridge with string-through, and large holes with flathead slots on top. I need to either replace just the saddles, or the entire bridge, but from what I gather I cannot get a TOM bridge with the correct radius for 12"-16" compound fretboard, which would be about 17-18". 

What have people here done? Gotten a 12" radius TOM and filed the middle saddles, or?


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## Lemonbaby

I received an AliExpress neck for my next Partscaster build yesterday. For ~70 Euros (incl. shipment), it's a steal. Flatsawn roasted maple with nice even grain, two-way trussrod, solid workmanship, awesome fret ends. It'll need a little levelling as the frets have just been pressed in and rounded, but it's only got a handful of very minor low/high spots. Can highly recommend this to anyone looking for a Strat replacement neck.


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## Klzow

Used the CNC for some hours this weekend and made some progess on my build!

It always feels scary to use the fret mill (maybe because I have broken 3 of them previously...)
But it sure is great for multiscale fretboards, and for hidden fret ends


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## Omzig

Klzow said:


> It always feels scary to use the fret mill (maybe because I have broken 3 of them previously...)



Just 3! i broke a whole box of 10 trying to cut my last wenge FB slots the other week...even at 30mm per min it was still breaking bits....freaking hate wenge (though i love the look and feel of it!)


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## JSil13

Got all the body routes done. Still need to drill for the toggle switch. Also got the tuners installed, bridge drilled, and the ferrule holes drilled. Working on tidying up the neck a bit, filling the fret ends with ebony dust, and doing a bunch of sanding. 







I started ordering parts and wood for my next build. This will be another star shaped guitar, but this time black limba with a flame maple/ziricote neck. I already have the flame maple and ziricote, and I ordered the body blank yesterday. I have a set of 7 string Black Winters and a 7 string Hipshot bridge on the way as well. Here’s the fretboard.


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## Omzig

So last year i swapped out my noisy ass router for a water cool spindle, but due to some health issues keeping me away from building i've never run it for more that 10 mins at a time and only done some small test cuts or make some random templates with it,...
so today i decide it was time to getsomefuckingworkdone & start to cut some stuff i've had CAD'ed and layout sitting in folders for over a year now  this one was inspired by our own dmlinger 's pepperfox TL Builds

Trem route is for a wilko VS50 II, ive picked a few guitars up with this unit in over the last year or so but non of them are routed so you can't get them low enough and once you get them near the body the plate binds....




Very close to the back edge (it's inside with about 3mm to spare!) Spindel performed flawlessly and now i only have to put up with the sound of the cutter in wood, i could get away with out ear protection but i stuck my ANC phone on for the duration.
backside tomorrow that is if my brain behaves & i'll try and make a thread for this build at some point....


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## dmlinger

Omzig said:


> So last year i swapped out my noisy ass router for a water cool spindle, but due to some health issues keeping me away from building i've never run it for more that 10 mins at a time and only done some small test cuts or make some random templates with it,...
> so today i decide it was time to getsomefuckingworkdone & start to cut some stuff i've had CAD'ed and layout sitting in folders for over a year now  this one was inspired by our own dmlinger 's pepperfox TL Builds
> 
> Trem route is for a wilko VS50 II, ive picked a few guitars up with this unit in over the last year or so but non of them are routed so you can't get them low enough and once you get them near the body the plate binds....
> 
> View attachment 115024
> 
> 
> Very close to the back edge (it's inside with about 3mm to spare!) Spindel performed flawlessly and now i only have to put up with the sound of the cutter in wood, i could get away with out ear protection but i stuck my ANC phone on for the duration.
> backside tomorrow that is if my brain behaves & i'll try and make a thread for this build at some point....


My man! Digging this. HS. Offset rear end. Trem. Yes!


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## Omzig

dmlinger said:


> My man! Digging this. HS. Offset rear end. Trem. Yes!



Thx bud, As i say your builds were the kick in the ass i needed to get back at it  i'll get around to making a build thread for this next week.....but a bit of an update now its free from the blank..dam that edge was close (like 2mm close!)












Seems i have to also build a neck for it now.....i do have an eart neck that i was planing on using on this one but a strat body came up dirt cheap for it so...as i have a shed load of "really" mahogony neck blanks i'll be using some of that...im trying to decided which Fret board i have on my pile to use.. atm i have a Ovangkol, falmed maple,indian ebony or richlite (i could also cut a wenge board but i love/hate that stuff)....leaning to the flamed maple and thinking of painting the top seafoam green with a natural back and exposed arm bevel.humm


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## LiveOVErdrive

Holy crap dude you're building my dream guitar.


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## Klzow

More pictures of my build, milling a radius to glue the top to and chambers for the "semi-hollow" body. Probably not the first one to do it but I got the idea that it would be cool to engrave the bottom of the chamber so when you look through the soundholes there will be a geometric pattern on the inside.

Finished off with some oil (looks much darker on the pictures) and next step is to get the top glued on to the body and route some more.


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## dmlinger

Klzow said:


> More pictures of my build, milling a radius to glue the top to and chambers for the "semi-hollow" body. Probably not the first one to do it but I got the idea that it would be cool to engrave the bottom of the chamber so when you look through the soundholes there will be a geometric pattern on the inside.
> 
> Finished off with some oil (looks much darker on the pictures) and next step is to get the top glued on to the body and route some more.
> 
> View attachment 115189
> 
> View attachment 115190
> 
> View attachment 115191


That looks great! I should probably use my CNC to its full potential one of these days


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## JSil13

First time working with Transtine dye. Had some mishaps and ended up scrapping the faux binding idea. Pretty happy with how it's looking so far. Going to sand back the neck one more time and then do one more coat of dye. I also need to do one more coat of Zpoxy on the back of the body. Once I get that all squared away I can start shooting lacquer. 




While the lacquer is curing I'm going to start on the 7 string Random Star build. I picked up a cheap set of Black Winters for it, got another Hipshot bridge, and Hipshot open gear Grip Locks for it already.


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## Naxxpipe

JSil13 said:


> While the lacquer is curing I'm going to start on the *7 string Random Star build*. I picked up a cheap set of Black Winters for it, got another Hipshot bridge, and Hipshot open gear Grip Locks for it already.
> View attachment 115234



Aw yiss! 
Also, that outline looks suspiciously like an explorer. Is that what you are basing the star on?


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## JSil13

Naxxpipe said:


> Aw yiss!
> Also, that outline looks suspiciously like an explorer. Is that what you are basing the star on?


That was actually the shape drawn on the body blank to show how big it was, but the last one I did use Explorer plans for the shape. I might trace the last one I made and then do some tweaks, or I could use the Explorer plans again and tweak from that. I've never made a 7 string before, so I have to do some math to figure out the neck and the neck pocket. I have the nut width, scale length, and bridge all figured out, so I need to draw it out to scale I think.


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## JSil13

While I’m waiting on things to dry/cure I started working on the specs for the 7 string neck. I’m using a Tusq Fender style nut, a 25.5” scale, and a Hipshot hard tail bridge. The nut is currently 50mm or about 1 15/16”. That leaves 1/8” on the side of each string, so I can bring it in a little bit to make it a little more comfortable. I think I’ll make it 48mm which I see is common and will still leave room on the edge. Following the string path and using the neck length from my current build which is 18.5” from nut to heel and leaving the same 1/8” to the edge I end up with 2 9/16” at the heel. Does that sound right to you guys?


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## dmlinger

JSil13 said:


> While I’m waiting on things to dry/cure I started working on the specs for the 7 string neck. I’m using a Tusq Fender style nut, a 25.5” scale, and a Hipshot hard tail bridge. The nut is currently 50mm or about 1 15/16”. That leaves 1/8” on the side of each string, so I can bring it in a little bit to make it a little more comfortable. I think I’ll make it 48mm which I see is common and will still leave room on the edge. Following the string path and using the neck length from my current build which is 18.5” from nut to heel and leaving the same 1/8” to the edge I end up with 2 9/16” at the heel. Does that sound right to you guys?


When in doubt, get some paper and draw it to see if it works.


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## JSil13

dmlinger said:


> When in doubt, get some paper and draw it to see if it works.


I drew it out to get some of the measurements. I just had to reformat the picture so that I could share it. So 48mm nut and 65mm heel. I'll have to cut that out of something to see how that feels, but I measured my other necks and that 1/8" between the strings and the edge of the fretboard makes sense.


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## dmlinger

JSil13 said:


> I drew it out to get some of the measurements. I just had to reformat the picture so that I could share it. So 48mm nut and 65mm heel. I'll have to cut that out of something to see how that feels, but I measured my other necks and that 1/8" between the strings and the edge of the fretboard makes sense.
> View attachment 115272


Looks good to me. In my experience, you can get away with a wider heel but definitely not a heel that’s too narrow. Probably common sense but I’ve built a neck before with a heel that’s too narrow and it was scrap. No matter how narrow you cut the nut, the Es will slip off the frets.


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## Lemonbaby

Received my silver metallic Strat body a few days and slapped my new Partscaster together today. Came out great although a bit on the heavy side (~3.8kg). I used two Alnico5 Single Coils and a Black Winter. That humbucker alone cost me as much as the body, neck and the single coils together.


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## Koldunya

Another layer of stain on my SRC6 neck finally got it blacker than the blackest black times infinity.





I don't have a pic of the body, but I did another layer on the front of the body, too. Not a lot of work left to finish it off (finally!)


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## dmlinger

None more black


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## JSil13

Got a few coats of Tru-Oil on this neck. Going to do a few more and then use a scotchbrite pad to get it to a satin feel. Also started shooting lacquer on the body. Going to be doing a few coats a day for the next few days and then letting it cure for a few weeks. While that's going on I'm going to switch over to the 7 string star build.


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## dmlinger

This one will be another of the 24 fret models like the ebony topped one that was finished recently. 

Walnut and black limba


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## NickS

That walnut is outstanding


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## dmlinger

Just off the machine


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## Klzow

dmlinger said:


> Just off the machine


Looking good!


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## JSil13

Still have to do some more clear coat spraying, but here it is outside of my dank basement. The color on the top looks awesome, but this picture doesn't do it much justice. In retrospect I should have dyed the pickup cavities as well. I'll have to paint them once I'm done clearing. 





Also got my decal on the neck. I had them made for natural finished maple so it's only visible from certain angles, but that's alright.


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## Legion

My computer. Midway through a case swap.


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## Lemonbaby

Koldunya said:


> Another layer of stain on my SRC6 neck finally got it blacker than the blackest black times infinity.



Are you going with a clear coat or oil finish?


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## Omzig

Been a bet slow on my build front, Ive had to rearrange some shit to make some space in the workshop so i could install a small log burner! (which is frecking great btw, i only have to have it burning for about an hour and it keeps the space warm for 8 hours or so...no more electric drinking oil heaters this winter!)

So as this has been curing for about 2 months or so now i slapped in back together so i can hang for a little while longer to fully finish curing on my wall at home, the Ping Trem unit came up a treat after i took it apart and dropped it in my sonic bath for 40 mins!) 
Crazy that some of these units have popped up for about £50 on ali atm....£60 or so for the 7 string unit....hummmm






It's going to be getting a white/pearl Tele type scratch plate made and a tilted rail HB in the neck (plate will be like this one on the old HM Strats, i have never seen one of these SP'ed models for sale (i have x2 HM strats love um both & im thinking of make a 7 stringer HM....)




Laters


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## Koldunya

Lemonbaby said:


> Are you going with a clear coat or oil finish?


 I used a matte clear coat


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## starsnuffer




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## Omzig

Finally got around to cutting a test blank for the scratch plate on this Showmaster re-finish (it does clear the switch screw head)

kinda look's a bit phantom of the opera just stuck in there  Ive ordered a 3ply White pearl blank to do the final cut on (& i'll use a trace bit on the neck pocket section)

I was looking for a White/Pink/Pearl 3 ply but no one does them and buying the 0.65mm plastics to sandwhich/make one would cost me about £30....


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## dmlinger

Omzig said:


> Finally got around to cutting a test blank for the scratch plate on this Showmaster re-finish (it does clear the switch screw head)
> 
> kinda look's a bit phantom of the opera just stuck in there  Ive ordered a 3ply White pearl blank to do the final cut on (& i'll use a trace bit on the neck pocket section)
> 
> I was looking for a White/Pink/Pearl 3 ply but no one does them and buying the 0.65mm plastics to sandwhich/make one would cost me about £30....


Looks great as-is! I'm a sucker for single ply guitars on most models, and this one looks good with the all white.


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## Omzig

dmlinger said:


> Looks great as-is! I'm a sucker for single ply guitars on most models, and this one looks good with the all white.



You know now i have the pearl white cut and fitted (need to remake this because some of the pearl came off with the plastic film on the upper horn part...ad i think it needs x2 more screws) im going to also cut a single ply white becuase as you say the plain white seem's to fit just aswell, infact im so happy with the result i think im going to make one of these for my beat to death now (faded) pink HM strat....


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## youngthrasher9

I need to switch the speakers in two cabs and put castors on one but alas I am a meat cutter during the holidays…


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## Soya

Finally finished up this guy that I've been working on here and there this year. Raw ash body and a cheap Chinese wenge neck that I re-radiused to 16" and refretted, and went for a Warmoth warhead style headstock. Also removed the super thick poly finish and went with one coat of Tru oil. Body finish was a happy accident, originally tried to stain it dark dark brown then tru oil over that but the stain took very unevenly and wasn't happy with the finish. So I sanded that back and tried a transparent red and was really surprised with the results, matte clear over top and all finished. Dimarzio evo and chopper pickups and a 5 way to complete it.


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## Lemonbaby

Received the woods and some parts for my next bass build. This one's going to be a Sandberg California shaped 4 string bass. Went with an Alder body, hard maple neck (with Padouk and Wenge stripes) and maple ferret. The body's going to be chambered with Black Limba on top, matching headstock as well. Four pickups in total with a humbucker & single coil in both bridge and neck position, all hidden inside one huge Black Limba PU cover that's also serving as thumb rest. I decided to use black chrome single bridges and tuners from Ibanez/Gotoh. JB style electronics with 2XVol/1XTone and two mini toggles for hum/single selection. Still waiting for the pickups to arrive, but I'll start with the woodworking this weekend.


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## CanserDYI

Soya said:


> Finally finished up this guy that I've been working on here and there this year. Raw ash body and a cheap Chinese wenge neck that I re-radiused to 16" and refretted, and went for a Warmoth warhead style headstock. Also removed the super thick poly finish and went with one coat of Tru oil. Body finish was a happy accident, originally tried to stain it dark dark brown then tru oil over that but the stain took very unevenly and wasn't happy with the finish. So I sanded that back and tried a transparent red and was really surprised with the results, matte clear over top and all finished. Dimarzio evo and chopper pickups and a 5 way to complete it.
> 
> View attachment 117585
> 
> View attachment 117586


Duuuude that body is sick! Great work!


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