# 1st Full Build - ...and away we go



## pettymusic (Mar 9, 2015)

Super excited about this. After getting through building a neck to test the waters...well, actually I was planning this build before the neck was even finished, ahaha! So, here we go. I have some parts still on the way but, I went ahead and got started today cutting the neck laminates. 

Here are the specs:

Blackmachine Copy/ Pettymachine? for body shape and headstock shape, 

Binding on body neck and headstock? _ Not sure I want to do this yet.

Alder Body w/ .0375" thick, Claro Walnut top

Honduras rosewood with Indian Rosewood fillets - 5 piece

Ebony Fretboard - 16" - 20" compound Radius, FS55090-EVO EVO Gold Frets

Hipshot Bridge

Dimarzio Titan Set

Luminlay Side Markers

Sperzal Locking Tuners

Black Tusq Nut

43mm @ nut
53.5mm @ 12th fret
58mm @ 24th fret

25.5&#8221; scale


So, nothing special here. I want to keep it simple and focus on getting it right. 

Here are the woods:






BTW - the left panel of walnut in the pic will be rotated to match the right


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## Hywel (Mar 9, 2015)

Sounds like a solid plan! 

Binding in a single color plastic isn't too hard. If you can get the router bits and glue sorted it's quite fun. Just double check everything on scrap.

If you route it off to re-do it you will cover the room in a sticky cover of snow like plastic shavings that will be found in places around the house for (I imagine) years to come. I learnt that the hard way


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## pettymusic (Mar 9, 2015)

Hywel said:


> Sounds like a solid plan!
> 
> Binding in a single color plastic isn't too hard. If you can get the router bits and glue sorted it's quite fun. Just double check everything on scrap.
> 
> If you route it off to re-do it you will cover the room in a sticky cover of snow like plastic shavings that will be found in places around the house for (I imagine) years to come. I learnt that the hard way



Thanks! 

Yeah, I have the dremel attachment from Stewmac. I know the router bits would be the better though. So, if I do decide to do it I will have to decide if I want to deal with the shortcomings of the attachment or splurge on the router bit. ....decisions, decisions


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## immortalx (Mar 9, 2015)

Looks like a nice plan man!
A note on the sperzel tuners: I guess you already know they have a pin instead of a small tab with a hole. The thing is, it is located on the opposite side of where "normal" tuners have the tab. I learned the hard way and installed them backwards once so I thought I should mention that just in case!


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## pettymusic (Mar 9, 2015)

immortalx said:


> Looks like a nice plan man!
> A note on the sperzel tuners: I guess you already know they have a pin instead of a small tab with a hole. The thing is, it is located on the opposite side of where "normal" tuners have the tab. I learned the hard way and installed them backwards once so I thought I should mention that just in case!



Thanks, man! I did not even know that but, good to know.


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## Pikka Bird (Mar 9, 2015)

Are you gonna rip the BM headstock verbatim?


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## pettymusic (Mar 9, 2015)

Pikka Bird said:


> Are you gonna rip the BM headstock verbatim?



Not really but, probably will stay close. I want to play around with it when I start working out the template drawings. 

Basically, when I'm drawing it out, I will go with what looks the best. 

When I built my neck, even though I used a template from another member (it was based on BM too) I still altered slightly until it looked right to my eye.


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## Renkenstein (Mar 9, 2015)

*buckles seat belt*

Let's roll!


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 10, 2015)

As for the binding bit, I have both and if you don't see yourself doing more then 2-3 binding jobs a year, you'll be fine with the dremel bit. HIGHLY recomend using the 3M binding tape (green roll) instead of Stewmac's stuff....Makes the job SO much easier!


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## pettymusic (Mar 10, 2015)

JuliusJahn said:


> As for the binding bit, I have both and if you don't see yourself doing more then 2-3 binding jobs a year, you'll be fine with the dremel bit. HIGHLY recomend using the 3M binding tape (green roll) instead of Stewmac's stuff....Makes the job SO much easier!



Well, I feel better about using the dremel attachment now that you've said this. I think I'm going to go ahead and do the binding. I mean, if I'm going through the trouble of building a guitar, I might as well go all out!

I have placed the 3m binding tape on my list. Thanks for that!

I hear the plastic binding is good to start. I think I'm going to go with the Ivoroid binding all the way around, though. Does anyone recommend a good glue for this stuff?


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## pettymusic (Mar 10, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> *buckles seat belt*
> 
> Let's roll!



We be rolling!!


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## Renkenstein (Mar 10, 2015)

Lemmie tell ya a trick on the binding bit...

Buy this...
Router Bit

...and change out the bearing for this.
Bearing

For $20 you get a Whiteside binding (rabbet) bit that will leave you 1/16" binding. Whiteside is a damn good brand and will last you long time. Cuts like a razor. 

....or you could easily spend 5+ times that on the StewMac version...


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## pettymusic (Mar 10, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> Lemmie tell ya a trick on the binding bit...
> 
> Buy this...
> Router Bit
> ...



Well, I wish I would've know this before I got the dremel attachment from Stewmac! I guess that's what I get for not ask I you first haha!

Appreciate that Man! 

I'll give this attachment a go on some scrap, if I dont like it, I'll be going to your recommendation next. 

I was actually looking on rockler.com for a set up like that and couldn't find it. But, I swear I saw something close in one of the mail catalog?


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## Renkenstein (Mar 10, 2015)

I think most router bit manufacturers offer a rabbet bit set, which is exactly what the StewMac bit is. SM's version has a wide array of those bearings, so you can get crazy with the multiple layers of binding like in a LP Custom, or those fancy Mayones. I didn't need anything that...robust...so I pieced together an option that would work for me.


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 10, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> I think most router bit manufacturers offer a rabbet bit set, which is exactly what the StewMac bit is. SM's version has a wide array of those bearings, so you can get crazy with the multiple layers of binding like in a LP Custom, or those fancy Mayones. I didn't need anything that...robust...so I pieced together an option that would work for me.



I think it's funny how I gave out that tip of piecing together the mortise bit + template from LeeV on the facebook builders group, but didn't think of using it for the binding....well, alteast I have the real one now and who knows, maybe I'll build an acoustic some day and need all of their crazy bearings!


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## Renkenstein (Mar 10, 2015)

The SM bit is a great bit, from what I've heard. I just always seem to be able to find something else cheaper that will get me to the same end result. I've gotta put my miser squeeze on everything in the shop.


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## pettymusic (Mar 11, 2015)

Not much to report. I worked a couple of hours last night cutting the neck pieces.

So, I used my father-in-law's 10" table saw. Well, some of my pieces came out a little thick in the middle. So, I'm trying to rectify this before glue up. 

The thicker/ outer pieces are not really an issue with the hand planes but, the smaller 1/4" pieces are a bit of a challenge to hold down while working. I'm thinking I may need to go ahead and set my self up with a shooting board of some sort in order to square and straighten pieces like this. ...or I could just set up a straight edge for a router fence and shave each edge square!!

I don't have any pictures since my phone battery was died and was charging last night. I'm going to hit again tonight and see what happens.


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## canuck brian (Mar 11, 2015)

You need a jointer and a planer. Or access to one.


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## pettymusic (Mar 11, 2015)

canuck brian said:


> You need a jointer and a planer. Or access to one.



Can I fly over and use yours??


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## TuffyKohler (Mar 11, 2015)

You can do quite well with a router and a shooting board. I picked up a scrap piece of granite to use for a perfectly flat surface. I've had better luck getting good joints without using my joiner. I do like the joiner for flattening a neck after gluing the scarf joint, but I've been pretty successful with the router/granite on that as well.


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## Renkenstein (Mar 11, 2015)

Do you have an adjustable plane stop on your bench?

I have an MDF topped bench that has a router leveled pine 2x foundation. I made a little plane stop out of plywood that I can pop up just above the surface of the end of the bench. Check it...







This is an old pic and the shop has evolved a lot, but you get the idear. All I've got to do is loosen the wing nuts on the end of the bench and scoot the stop up a bit and tighten it back down. The flat MDF surface is true(for the most part and if not, I'll put the granite slab between it and the workpiece) and I can plane just about anything as long as the stop is up. No clamps holding the piece, just the weight of the plane.


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## pettymusic (Mar 11, 2015)

TuffyKohler said:


> You can do quite well with a router and a shooting board. I picked up a scrap piece of granite to use for a perfectly flat surface. I've had better luck getting good joints without using my joiner. I do like the joiner for flattening a neck after gluing the scarf joint, but I've been pretty successful with the router/granite on that as well.



I had forgotten what I did when I ran into this on my neck build.

I basically set up a long piece of granite, set my piece on the granite, then built up behind the piece so that I can place a straight edge across the top of my piece. Then just used the router to take of 1mm worth of material using my straight edge as a fence. Now I can use my leveling beam and sandpaper to smooth out any imperfections. Now, squaring up the opposite side should be simple now that I have a good straight edge.

I guess I need to write this stuff down somewhere, ha! (...as his First Neck Build thread sites pages away.)


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## TuffyKohler (Mar 11, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> I guess I need to write this stuff down somewhere, ha! (...as his First Neck Build thread sites pages away.)



Taking notes is a really good idea. I've had to re-learn a few things, and sometimes can't remember why I did something the way I did.


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## pettymusic (Mar 11, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> Do you have an adjustable plane stop on your bench?
> 
> I have an MDF topped bench that has a router leveled pine 2x foundation. I made a little plane stop out of plywood that I can pop up just above the surface of the end of the bench. Check it...
> 
> ...



I freakin' love that! I was actually planing the tops of my plastic bench dogs last night (not really on purpose either), trying to think of a way to plane these 1/2" thin, long strips. 

I like this though. I may have steal, yet another, idea from you Renk!


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## Renkenstein (Mar 11, 2015)

That's why I'm here, brother. I love contributing. If I can save everyone the headaches that plagued my first attempts, then I'm a happy fella.

There's no secrets in my shop. No voodoo magic or hocus pocus that some shops like you to believe. I feel obligated to share my successful methods, as I've learned them either from others here, or through my own process revisions.

What comes around goes around, and I like to be known as one of the good guys.


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## fastmerc (Mar 11, 2015)

Hey man...cudos to you for going for it on a build. I took a peek at your other threads on the neck and such. I also happened to notice your in Milton. Im in FWB. I have aspirations of doing a full build as well sometime. Id like to check out your setup sometime to get a real look at the types of things I will need, maybe get a pointer or two.


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## pettymusic (Mar 11, 2015)

fastmerc said:


> Hey man...cudos to you for going for it on a build. I took a peek at your other threads on the neck and such. I also happened to notice your in Milton. Im in FWB. I have aspirations of doing a full build as well sometime. Id like to check out your setup sometime to get a real look at the types of things I will need, maybe get a pointer or two.



Yeah man! PM me anytime! Be glad to tell you what I know.


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## canuck brian (Mar 12, 2015)

TuffyKohler said:


> You can do quite well with a router and a shooting board. I picked up a scrap piece of granite to use for a perfectly flat surface. I've had better luck getting good joints without using my joiner. I do like the joiner for flattening a neck after gluing the scarf joint, but I've been pretty successful with the router/granite on that as well.



I do scarfs on my tablesaw with a jig. One clean pass with a really good blade and you're good to go.

I've seen guys have a lot of great success using a router too though.


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## Deegatron (Mar 12, 2015)

I've had good luck doing scarf joints with a rough cut, clean up with a plane followed by sanding smooth with a flat block of wood... and just to be clear, I have very little plane skills and my plane isn't particularly awesome either... as long as your original cut isn't TERRIBLE it's not difficult to clean up and move along... this also works well for compound scarf joints on multiscale necks where setting up a jig to cut the correct angle can be a nightmare....

I'd recommend setting up a router sled as soon as possible... it can be used to smooth scarf joints and 1,000,000 other tasks that are very difficult for the first time builder... such as thicknessing your body blank or leveling off the neck before gluing your fretboard on.... and it's the cheapest tool you'll ever build to boot...


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## pettymusic (Mar 12, 2015)

^ Yup, for my neck build, I cut the scarf the best I could with the Ryobi saw and then cleaned it up with a router/ sled jig cut @ a 13 degree angle. I was very happy with the results so, I will use this strategy again.


Well, I sharpened the plane blades last night and got to sweating. Whew! I gotta get these cuts straight and ready for glue up! This Hondo rosewood tears out pretty easily. After some minor blade adjustments and slowing down a bit, I was able to get some of my edges semi-straight. I'll hit them with the leveling beam and sandpaper. That should get them ready to go.

My left stringer was about 1mm too big:






So after many passes with the hand plane I ended up with this:





I'm going to take a break tonight, the wife and kids are leaving town Friday. I will be hitting it hard this weekend!!


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## pettymusic (Mar 16, 2015)

Well, I couldn't get these neck pieces straight enough. So, I decided it's best to do a laminated neck when I have better tools and skills.......mainly skills. 

I have enough Ind. rosewood to do a 1 piece neck so, that's where it's going now. I think I'll go ahead and install these carbon fiber rods I've got as well. 

So, here we go cleaning the scarf joint and getting that thing glued up!





















Most of my time went to trying to correct my pieces to laminate the neck so, this is all I got completed this weekend. Would have loved to have gotten started on the body but, that's ok. As long as progress is being made, right?


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## Edika (Mar 16, 2015)

Can't wait to see the end result! I would suggest getting different tuners than Sperzels though. They're really annoying to fine tune with the 12:1 gear ratio and if you want to replace them then you need to drill new holes.


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## pettymusic (Mar 18, 2015)

Well dang, I forgot to thickness my headstock piece before gluing it up. So I says to myself: Hey, let's set up that bench top bandsaw dad gave me and cut it down to size. I should have stopped right there but, I didn't. 

I bought a new blade, set the guides, set the tension, practiced on a few pieces of maple. Proceeded to cut my head stock and felt a disturbance in the force. I turned the saw off and while the visible side looked ok:





....the under side did not:






Now maybe I could add a piece of wenge under there, I dunno

But, then I would have to figure out a way to finish the cut and I have lost all confidence in my bandsaw skills...or lack there of.

Anyway, I ordered another piece of RW and it should be here Saturday. In order to stay motivated, I'm going to start work on drawing the body out and make templates.


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 18, 2015)

Next/this time, just use your scarf jig but put the neck in upside down. That's how I thickness my headstocks w/ one piece necks. Just draw out a volute area first and dont route that away.

Back veneers are awesome, and can look good if it matches the face veneer or another part of the guitar. I even managed to get the zebrawood grain to match the walnut strips!


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## electriceye (Mar 18, 2015)

mmmm...yeah...don't use a bandsaw for thickness sanding.


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 18, 2015)

electriceye said:


> mmmm...yeah...don't use a bandsaw for thickness sanding.



Unless you replace the blade with a really long sanding belt!


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## pettymusic (Mar 18, 2015)

I know right... stupid ideas = stupid results....UGH!!! I've beat myself up over this that's for sure.


I like your suggestion, JuliusJahn. I just didn't know how the transition area would play out but, like you said; as long as I don't rout that area I should be fine. I have some wenge that I may be able to build it back up. Worse case scenario, cut the headstock off to use for scrap and still have the neck piece. 

I'll put this piece up for another day and start the neck over. At least that's my plan for now.


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 18, 2015)

How thick is the thinnest part? You only need like 12mm/ 1/2" for hipshot tuners. Worst case I'd just route off hte headstock and glue something else on. That piece is too nice to waste.


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## immortalx (Mar 18, 2015)

I agree with Julius, man. Judging from the photo it looks it might be thick enough, and if it's not, you can add a couple layers of contrasting veneers until you have the right thickness.
Also, depending on the length of the headstock piece and how far the offensive cut is, you might be able to build thickness by adding material on the front! This will "push" the headstock piece further back. If it sounds frustrating let me know and I'll draw a diagram.


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## pettymusic (Mar 18, 2015)

^ It's down to about 8 or 9mm unfortunately. If I add to the top of the headstock it will make it too short so, my only choice is to add to the bottom of it. 

Rout it down to the thinnest measurement, then add a piece to thickness back to where I need to be? .......hhhmmmmm I think I may can do this. I just have to figure out a way to keep the headstock clamped down, while I route the back side. 

Does it matter if I stop at the volute or should the added piece go over the volute?

BTW - Thank you guys for your help!! Really appreciate it!


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 18, 2015)

Draw your headstock shape out first! It might mean an extra mm or two of material to work with.

Just add an extension "table" to your scarf jig (same thickness as the base you have now) then clamp it down with 3 clamps. Shouldnt move. 

The added piece can go over the volute but only if you think you can bend it, and want to face that challenge right now. Im partial to my A-joint idea


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 18, 2015)

Man, bummer about that headstock, I know the feeling, I had to replace the head twice on my latest neck build. It might be more trouble than its worth to try patching or adding more wood on if it's too thin. Its a huge pain in the butt but I'd cut it off, read do the scarf just enough to completely remove the old headstock wood and re-glue a whole new one. It would yield the best final product IMO.


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## Renkenstein (Mar 18, 2015)

I glue the full thickness of the board for a scarf joint and cut on the band saw, but I use a 3TPI blade and give the line a good 3-4mm berth. Knowing the limitations of your tools and making sure the blade is square to the table top is KEY. Forcing the piece with a higher TPI blade will definitely cause the blade to wander like you've experienced.

Once I've got my rough thickness, I drum sand it level. 

You can bounce back from this. The router is the answer. Support the neck and fix the headstock face to a work surface. Rig up a sled and risers and level it all out. Once it's level you can make a purdy sammich headstock by laminating other wood layers on both back and front if you need to build it up to thickness.

That rosewood is beautiful...I bet you shat yourself when you flipped that headstock over.


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## immortalx (Mar 19, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> I just have to figure out a way to keep the headstock clamped down, while I route the back side.



If you are going to do this with a router sled, drill one of the tuner holes and use a screw and washer through that hole to secure it over the sled bed. You just have to be careful to avoid that spot when routing. When you are done, you can easily remove the un-routed material with a chisel.


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## FIXXXER (Mar 19, 2015)

JuliusJahn said:


> Next/this time, just use your scarf jig but put the neck in upside down. That's how I thickness my headstocks w/ one piece necks. Just draw out a volute area first and dont route that away.
> 
> Back veneers are awesome, and can look good if it matches the face veneer or another part of the guitar. I even managed to get the zebrawood grain to match the walnut strips!



matter of taste i guess, i absolutely hate how it looks 
though, i have to say that i do not like any "veneering" at all,
just as i don't like any plastic (bindings) on the guitar.


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## pettymusic (Mar 19, 2015)

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Man, bummer about that headstock, I know the feeling, I had to replace the head twice on my latest neck build. It might be more trouble than its worth to try patching or adding more wood on if it's too thin. Its a huge pain in the butt but I'd cut it off, read do the scarf just enough to completely remove the old headstock wood and re-glue a whole new one. It would yield the best final product IMO.



Yeah, I keep going back and forth. I have another neck blank on the way, I can just start over with that. On the other hand, I would probably learn more if I fix this issue. I probably have too much on my plate right now with recording plus we have playing shows like ever other weekend for the last few months. I'll make a decision soon and get rolling again. 



> I glue the full thickness of the board for a scarf joint and cut on the band saw, but I use a 3TPI blade and give the line a good 3-4mm berth. Knowing the limitations of your tools and making sure the blade is square to the table top is KEY. Forcing the piece with a higher TPI blade will definitely cause the blade to wander like you've experienced.
> 
> Once I've got my rough thickness, I drum sand it level.
> 
> ...




I literally almost cried!! Lol! It was a devastating blow at first however, a great learning experience. Now I know a little more about this band saw



> If you are going to do this with a router sled, drill one of the tuner holes and use a screw and washer through that hole to secure it over the sled bed. You just have to be careful to avoid that spot when routing. When you are done, you can easily remove the un-routed material with a chisel.



Awesome idea. I could also pick a corner after drawing my headstock design to drill into. Thanks!!



> Draw your headstock shape out first! It might mean an extra mm or two of material to work with.
> 
> Just add an extension "table" to your scarf jig (same thickness as the base you have now) then clamp it down with 3 clamps. Shouldnt move.
> 
> The added piece can go over the volute but only if you think you can bend it, and want to face that challenge right now. Im partial to my A-joint idea



I think I see what you're saying. Using the scarf jig, clamp the neck (fret side down) to the base, the angle of my scarf jig should be the same as the angle of the back of the headstock?


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## Renkenstein (Mar 19, 2015)

FIXXXER said:


> matter of taste i guess, i absolutely hate how it looks
> though, i have to say that i do not like any "veneering" at all,
> just as i don't like any plastic (bindings) on the guitar.



I agree with you with the plastic, but how can anyone not like this?


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## Renkenstein (Mar 19, 2015)

...or this.


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## pettymusic (Mar 19, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> ...or this.



This is beautiful! I just don't know if I want tackle something like this on my first build. ....one day though my friend....one day


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 19, 2015)

Man those are seriously beautiful necks... I'd be afraid to build that kind of detail though, simply cause I build to play and I know it would eventually get scuffs, dings and buckle rash. 

It would kill me to see it get messed up but I'd still probably try a build like that after I get a few more under my belt... maybe. IDK.


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## Renkenstein (Mar 20, 2015)

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Man those are seriously beautiful necks... I'd be afraid to build that kind of detail though, simply cause I build to play and I know it would eventually get scuffs, dings and buckle rash.
> 
> It would kill me to see it get messed up but I'd still probably try a build like that after I get a few more under my belt... maybe. IDK.



There's not much to it, really. If you flatten your headstock(or whatever's left) and use a template to clamp it to apply even pressure, adding layers is simple. I'll use brads in a couple 1/16" holes in tuner locations on both ends of the headstock to ensure clean registration, but if you leave the laminate rough cut, you can always trim it flush with the rest of the material.

If worse comes to worse, you can always cut the scarf joint apart and glue on another piece.


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## pettymusic (Mar 25, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> There's not much to it, really. If you flatten your headstock(or whatever's left) and use a template to clamp it to apply even pressure, adding layers is simple. I'll use brads in a couple 1/16" holes in tuner locations on both ends of the headstock to ensure clean registration, but if you leave the laminate rough cut, you can always trim it flush with the rest of the material.
> 
> If worse comes to worse, you can always cut the scarf joint apart and glue on another piece.



Hey Renkenstein, since I would be adding a layer to the back of my headstock, I am thicknessing this from the back side, how far toward the volute should my next layer be? I mean should it overlap the volute?


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## Renkenstein (Mar 26, 2015)

I'd do it just like the picture examples and lay it over the headstock portion of the volute. If you terminate it before the volute, it'll look sloppy and out of place. This would mean gluing it to a curved shape, which I haven't done yet. There's ways to get the wood to accept that new shape with either heat, steam, or leaving a wet rag on it in preparation. 

Immortal did it perfectly in his example.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 26, 2015)

I did a veneer before on the back of a volute, veneer is very easy to bend and came out looking pretty nice.


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## pettymusic (Mar 26, 2015)

Ok, I think I have a better understanding now. I didn't want to move forward until I could wrap my brain around the process so, I ordered a new blank and it arrived the other day.

Same as before, cut the scarf with the ryobi saw and this time was my best cut yet. 





This time I remembered to thickness my headstock before gluing 





I was freehand drawing the body template and didn't like what was happening so, I used a template and modified to taste......not much really.





Went and got a sanding drum attachment:





Saw this bad boy on craig's list and the price was too good to pass up:





Going to visit my dad next month. I talked him into welding me up a table to mount this beast to. I may be able to tackle those neck laminates like I want to after all.

That is all for now. Gonna get that scarf glued up next. Oh and I changed my mind on the bridge and went with the Hannes Schaller. That thing just looks so super comfy!!

Until next time.....peace out!!


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## immortalx (Mar 26, 2015)

That's a very clean cut man and nice piece of rosewood 
Note that now that you pre-thicknessed the headstock piece the scarf joint will move towards the headstock, probably past the volute. There's no problem with that, just a reminder if you're after this look! If you use veneers on the back it will be covered of course! 



Renkenstein said:


> I'd do it just like the picture examples and lay it over the headstock portion of the volute. If you terminate it before the volute, it'll look sloppy and out of place. This would mean gluing it to a curved shape, which I haven't done yet. There's ways to get the wood to accept that new shape with either heat, steam, or leaving a wet rag on it in preparation.
> 
> Immortal did it perfectly in his example.



Thanks for the kind words man! All I did was to pre bend the thicker piece. The veneer went on untouched. I found that a good caul material for this is silicon that has hardened inside the tube! I have a bunch of those at work that have expired a long time ago. If you slice that in half it makes a nice caul that conforms to the shape of the volute. Although any piece of rubber will work as well.


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## pettymusic (Mar 27, 2015)

immortalx said:


> That's a very clean cut man and nice piece of rosewood
> Note that now that you pre-thicknessed the headstock piece the scarf joint will move towards the headstock, probably past the volute. There's no problem with that, just a reminder if you're after this look! If you use veneers on the back it will be covered of course!



Thanks! Yeah, I did notice that. So, if I want the scarf more toward the bridge, I will need to cut further that direction and start with a thicker headstock?




> Thanks for the kind words man! All I did was to pre bend the thicker piece. The veneer went on untouched. I found that a good caul material for this is silicon that has hardened inside the tube! I have a bunch of those at work that have expired a long time ago. If you slice that in half it makes a nice caul that conforms to the shape of the volute. Although any piece of rubber will work as well.



That is awesome!


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## immortalx (Mar 27, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> Thanks! Yeah, I did notice that. So, if I want the scarf more toward the bridge, I will need to cut further that direction and start with a thicker headstock?



Exactly! A thicker headstock piece will do that. I never managed to have a clear picture in my mind of where the scarf will end up, so I always have to physically draw it on paper


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## Renkenstein (Mar 27, 2015)

Hah! Same here. Scarf joints are tricky to predict. Drawing it out helps. I always glue the full thickness of the neck blank to move that joint further down the neck.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 27, 2015)

immortalx said:


> I never managed to have a clear picture in my mind of where the scarf will end up, so I always have to physically draw it on paper



That's exactly what cost me my last scarf joint... trying to eye ball it. Messed it up, cut off the headstock and glued up a new one.


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## pettymusic (Mar 31, 2015)

OK, here's the latest. I chickened out on the binding. I feel I need more practice with it. So, now I don't know what I'm going to do about the top/body joint. I guess I can just do binding on the body??

Anyway, 

Got the headstock glued on:











Routed the TR channel:





I tried a different TR this time. My first neck, I used the stewmac hotrod. I saved a couple of dollars but, I didn't have the correct size router bit so, I had carefully rout the channel out in several passes. I did not like doing this and will opt for the hot rod next time.

It fits!!





So, I ordered this fretboard pre-radiused with a compound radii of 14"-20". This is the reason for multiple sanding blocks. 





Tapered the neck and the router jumped on me.









Oh no!! Who invited this guy to the party!?









No problem. Some ebony dust and CA cleared that right up!! 









Side dots.....check!!





I am really liking the look and feel of this neck! Can't wait to play it!!

My plan is to install the frets and drill tuner holes. I think this time, I will undercut the tangs slightly, then fill the ends with ebony dust and CA. Then move on to the body. I'm going to visit my dad in a couple of weeks. He has a way better drill press so, I think I will do all the drilling for the bridge at his shop. 

Until next time.......


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## immortalx (Mar 31, 2015)

Nice job man  Undercutting the tangs will make a huge difference, because you'd usually have to touch up after a couple of months when the wood shrinks and they start biting.


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## JuliusJahn (Mar 31, 2015)

The router will tend to do that at the nut and heel. It helps if you make a sub base, with a very small (1" or so) hole for the bit instead of the 3" gaping chasm they supply them with.


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## pettymusic (Mar 31, 2015)

immortalx said:


> Nice job man  Undercutting the tangs will make a huge difference, because you'd usually have to touch up after a couple of months when the wood shrinks and they start biting.



Thanks! Yeah, I'm committing to trying new things and doing things a little different each time I build. I noticed this was done on my Agile guitar and I kinda like it.



> The router will tend to do that at the nut and heel. It helps if you make a sub base, with a very small (1" or so) hole for the bit instead of the 3" gaping chasm they supply them with.



Awesome! Thanks!! I should know this too! On my first neck; I had to make a template for the heel. Now, I already had a sub base made for the scarf joint angle jig. I just flipped it up side down and used it as a router table (of sorts). Anyway, as you described, there is only a small gap between the router bit and base. That neck heel came out very clean but, I would not have known why if you didn't mention this so, thanks again!


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## DredFul (Mar 31, 2015)

Damn I love rosewood necks! Dying to try one out some day.

Also love your spirit. Keep up the good work mate! I'm sure the end result will be something we can be jealous of 

Also can't wait to see that walnut top in action!


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## Renkenstein (Mar 31, 2015)

DUDE! Mucho progress, man! Lookin' VERY good!


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## Renkenstein (Mar 31, 2015)

immortalx said:


> Nice job man  Undercutting the tangs will make a huge difference, because you'd usually have to touch up after a couple of months when the wood shrinks and they start biting.




^^This 100x. I'm undercutting from now on. My recent build hasn't done it yet, but my first build definitely shrunk and those frets started stinging a bit.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 31, 2015)

JuliusJahn said:


> It helps if you make a sub base, with a very small (1" or so) hole for the bit instead of the 3" gaping chasm they supply them with.



One of the best items in my build tools. I made an acrylic base a while back and have used it on numerous applications.


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## Renkenstein (Mar 31, 2015)

Wait...how are you routing that? 

Y'all talking about making a base plate for under the router base?

I've never had that problem, but I use a table and an insert plate with a 1" hole.


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 1, 2015)

I just have this made from 3/4 MDF and only a 1" hole (2mm larger then my roundover bit. It's a godsend for all the cutting boards I do, some are only 4" wide and a 3" hole does not offer any support on the corners)

EDIT: I'll take a photo of mine once Im in the shop.


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## pettymusic (Apr 1, 2015)

If I understand correctly, the point is to close the gap between the outer diameter of your router bit(s) and your router base.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 1, 2015)

Yes... that and you can make the base wider too. I have the same Ryobi router as yours prettymusic, and what I did with mine that helped loads in doing builds is I made a clear acrylic foot/base for mine that I use in place of the clear yellowish plastic ring on the bottom with the 4 Phillips head screws that came with it. Just drilled out the 4 holes, recess the screw heads, cut an appx. 1" hole in the center for bits. 

It comes in super handy for all sorts of routing. 

I'll try taking a pic later tonight to upload.


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 1, 2015)

Ill probably end up making one out of 3/8 acrylic but for now it does just fine . Also helps keep dust in the cavity instead of spitting it out across the room if you don't have a vac hookup.


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## Renkenstein (Apr 1, 2015)

Ahhh, I gotcha. I did the same thing on my first attempt before I decided to go with a router table. I still have that lil acrylic base. It comes in handy when freehanding top carves.





It was initially designed to cut circles, as you can see by the evenly spaced holes down the center.


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## pettymusic (Apr 3, 2015)

Not much to report today. I got the frets in. Used the same method as before except this time I undercut the tangs. I'll file the ends and fill the fret slot ends this weekend....maybe.






So, I upgraded the band saw and picked up a thickness planer. The band saw set up perfectly in about 30 minutes. The planer, on the other hand, hmmmm; how should I say......well, I quickly learned what "snipe" is:






Now, I've seen a couple of different remedies for snipe but, wanted to ask any of you guys what your method is for eliminating snipe.

I did try to feed a scrap piece before and after my work piece but, this did not help. I also tried lifting up on the work piece as it goes in and as it exits, this yielded no results.

I have read that a sled can be made as well.


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 3, 2015)

You need to attach sacrificial supports, longer then your piece on the sides, or do multiple passes at your final depth of cut but you'll wanto to use your snipe thickness, not what the planer says. Don't flip the board as you pass it through the second and third time.


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## pettymusic (Apr 3, 2015)

^^ I did find that it significantly went down if I sent through multiple times. I didn't want to flip it though as, I knew I would just make things worse. 

So, your saying I can use 2 pieces, 1 on either side of my work piece and make sure they are longer than the work piece?


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## pettymusic (Apr 3, 2015)

I was also thinking about this: When I get down to my final thickness, I will make 2 pieces that are the exact thickness I need. They will be placed on either side of the planer bed and run from front to back. I will then set the blade head down on these pieces. This should keep the blades from digging into the work piece......at least in my small field of imagination it does. 

Edit: If I wanted to get really serious about eliminating snipe, this - https://youtu.be/Eadz-uNuD-4


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 3, 2015)

Yep. Just superglue or tape or screw two rails on the side. Thing of an ][ where your board is the center II. 

Snipe doesn't happen because the planer head is dropping, it's because your one piece loses contact with the first roller and engages deeper into the blade. Making smaller passes also avoids this quieter a bit. there are a few YouTube vids on this but most are either making an outfeed table, or just mounting a new "bed" which is just a long board.


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## pettymusic (Apr 3, 2015)

Ok, I see. Then my idea wouldn't work then. I'm thinking I will use the 2 longer pieces on either side for small pieces like headstocks or necks. For guitar bodies, I may have to make a new bed. It's a 12.5" planer and that just barely fits a superstrat style body.


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 3, 2015)

I suppose the obvious of leaving boards an extra 3" long is out of the question and cutting off the snipe?


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## BlackMastodon (Apr 3, 2015)

I was able to raise the outfeed (I don't know if this is the right term...the side where you don't feed the piece ) side of my jointer to make it level with the blades to eliminate the snipe.

Can you adjust the height of the blades or anything on the planer?


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## immortalx (Apr 3, 2015)

JuliusJahn said:


> I suppose the obvious of leaving boards an extra 3" long is out of the question and cutting off the snipe?


That's what I'm doing too  When that is not an option I just use the thickness sander!


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## pettymusic (Apr 7, 2015)

So, I got the body thicknessed and cut. I ended up working the snipe out except for .05mm worth at the very tip of the upper horn . I can sand that out so, I'm happy with that. I had lots of burning from my router bit so, I rigged up the the ole' drum sanding bit to the drill press and dropped the speed to the lowest setting possible. This worked like a charm!!!

I decided to see what can be done to get the top ready for glue up. Getting the center joint ready was no problem but, dude, these 2 boards have some warpage going on!!











http://i1257.photobucket.com/albums/ii504/pettymusic/20150404_143928_zpsu59aksyx.jpg

So I made a sled based on the principles discussed earlier in this thread. Thanks JuliusJahn!!





This was not the finished sled....I ended up placing 2 supports on either side of the sled, the full length of the sled and a little bit higher than the top of my work piece. I placed some wedges under the work piece to keep it from rocking and hot glued them. I saw a vid discussing this and the hot glue sticks just enough and is easily removed after. This was going well until I realized that my sled had a bow in the middle of the sled and this was being mirrored on my top. So, my plan is to attach another base to my sled to try and counteract the bowing. 

I am really nervous about this since, I'm in new territory. I would probably lose it if I jack this beautiful walnut up. I am seriously considering giving the hand plane another go on this top. I've already got this sled built and I think if I can get it straight, I can get decent results without killing myself......which was the whole purpose of the thickness planer to begin with.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 7, 2015)

Dude... go to home depot and get a piece of their nicer oak ply wood. They sell some that has a red oak veneer on the outer face thats made for desk tops and such... 2 of those glued face to face would make a nice stable sled.

I used the 1/2 inch stuff before to make this thicknessing jig.


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## pettymusic (Apr 8, 2015)

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Dude... go to home depot and get a piece of their nicer oak ply wood. They sell some that has a red oak veneer on the outer face thats made for desk tops and such... 2 of those glued face to face would make a nice stable sled.
> 
> I used the 1/2 inch stuff before to make this thicknessing jig.



Thanks for the advice! I have a thicknessing jig like that, and the side rails were way too high for the router bit to reach the work piece. I was planing on making lower side rails then I got the thickness planer. I figured I might as well learn to use it. The other problem with the jig like yours is these work pieces have bow/ cup in the middle so keeping it attached to the base is an issue.

This planer is not my favorite for thicknessing thin stock like this. I'm not sure what to do with this, I know if I keep going I will ruin this walnut so, I may have to order a new top, this time making sure it's thicknessed and planed to what I want. 

Here's where I'm at now: 






Here's the sled I made for it:





I definitely, know why Renk built that drum sander.


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## immortalx (Apr 8, 2015)

Is this after you tried with the sled? Another thing you could try is to attach your board over a longer one with double sided tape. Then take a scrap piece of wood with the same thickness and again attach it in front of your board. Snipe will still be there but it will ruin the scrap piece and not your board. Haven't tried that but I think it will work


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 8, 2015)

That warping doesnt look that bad....given the thickness of the wood, if you can flatten it with your hands it's safe to glue up and use the clamps to straighten it out, in reference to your body wood.


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## pettymusic (Apr 8, 2015)

^^Thanks guys! JuliusJahn, I can get the warp with my hands. I think what is happening is the rollers are flattening the work piece as it goes through and so I am expecting less warping....if that makes any sense. What you say makes perfect sense, if it can be flattened with those rollers then I should be good when clamping it down.


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 8, 2015)

thats exactly whats happening w/ the rollers. If in doubt, just dry clamp it and see how it reacts. The thinner it is, the easier it is!


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## pettymusic (Apr 9, 2015)

I managed to get the top worked out as much as I could. There is a spot at the neck pocket but, that will be routed out anyway. Got the center joint glued up now:

I learned this from one of Sully's vids.













Worked on the fret slots too. This neck already feels much nicer than my first. 

Before:





After:





I'm hoping to get this thing ready to install the bridge before next Thursday. So, I will need to get the top cut and glued to the body, and Route the neck pocket. If I can, I will go ahead and route the pup cavities. If I can fit all that in while playing a show at the fair this Saturday, I will be in great shape!!! This is the first time my daughters will get to see me play since I'm playing the county fair and not a local club/ bar.. haha! Can't wait to see how my 5 yr old reacts!! She's been known headbang to daddy's songs while cruising to school in the morning!!! 

Until next time...


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## Renkenstein (Apr 13, 2015)

Gonna be able to see those side dots?!?


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## pettymusic (Apr 14, 2015)

Renkenstein said:


> Gonna be able to see those side dots?!?



Haha! I find as I get older, I like my side dots bigger and glow in the dark


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## pettymusic (Apr 15, 2015)

I think I finally got this top under control. Got her glued last night. Things didn't go too bad for my first top/ glue session. 






Here it is with a little naptha on it before I glued it up:






Meanwhile, I started carving the neck and figuring out how to do a volute. I ended up getting the best results using the rounded end of my belt sander. Not bad, not bad. I am considering a ....a....oh my mind has gone blank...... veneer!!! ....in order to cover the scarf joint.
















So up next; flush trim the top to the body. I'm going for the neck pocket after that. Get the bridge installed and rout the pup and electric cavities.

Getting there. Learning a lot in the process so, I can't really complain. 

One thing I did realize that I wanted to do before I glued the top and didn't; I wanted to route a little cavity for the pup wires but, oh well. No big deal.

Until next time.....


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## immortalx (Apr 15, 2015)

This is getting really beautiful man  Previous photos of the top didn't do it justice. There are so many colors on that figure! A veneer under the headstock is indeed a very good idea, I'd say go for it!


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## pettymusic (Apr 15, 2015)

immortalx said:


> This is getting really beautiful man  Previous photos of the top didn't do it justice. There are so many colors on that figure! A veneer under the headstock is indeed a very good idea, I'd say go for it!



Thanks man! I got paranoid and ordered another walnut top when this one was giving me fits. I had it sent over to my dads since I will be there for a short visit. When I got this one under control and started to really envision how it will look in the end, I just couldn't bare to not include it in this build. It's like this top and I have a history now. I know psycho, right? 

Anyway, it's a perfect fit for the rosewood, the light streaking on the ebony Fb, etc. 

Your right though, my grainy/ shaky hand taken photos really don't do it justice. If I can get through this build in one piece and put the finish on it, I will do a NGD with my wife's fancy camera with w tripod and all


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## Renkenstein (Apr 15, 2015)

Yeah, man. That's good lookin' work there. 

Drum sander is the key! Of course I had no idea when I built it, it just worked out that way. I was lookin' for a fun weekend project with my pops and it ended up being a cornerstone of my shop.


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## pettymusic (Apr 16, 2015)

Here's a nice little mock up. Looks like I forgot to order the 3 way switch...oops!






Check out the lower right bout; freakin' top chipped right off when I was flush trimming the top to the body....

The grain appears to be less dense in that area. I'm going to try and glue a piece there. Hopefully, I can make it look seamless with all the dark lines going on there.

Seeing this mock up gives me some much needed excitement and motivation to keep going!! 

Renkenstein; I hear ya on that drum sander. It is definitely on my list. I think once I complete this build, I am going to completely overhaul my garage and improve my workflow. I need to build tables for some of the new tools I got. Right now, when I need something like my bandsaw, thickness planer, belt sander, drill press, etc., I have to pick it up of the floor and clamp it to my work bench. My tools are all over the place, I need shelves for wood, blah blah blah. Anyway, my point is: drum sander will be built.

My plan is to have this ready to apply the finish by next Thursday. My band is opening for Hellyeah on Friday so, I would love to be rockin' this bad boy on stage that night!!!


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## Renkenstein (Apr 16, 2015)

You're not going to put that output jack there, are ya? That's the worst part of the design of these guitars, IMO. As a performing guitarist, I would never want the output jack there, because I never have a guitar stand on stage. I always prop my main guitar against my halfstack and a backup behind. I guess a stand would render the point moot. 

Definitely a jack location that you'd want a 90° cable connector for. 

Another thing to consider is the stress on the cable. I always run my cable up over my strap, as any guitarist knows to do after stepping on it and unplugging one's self. Any extreme kinks in the path can cause wear and tear, which is why I chose to do an angled output jack that's recessed a bit.

Anyway...that's just my opinion of that jack location, others may like it.


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## pettymusic (Apr 16, 2015)

Yeah, I thought about that and since I'm running wireless, I am running a 90 degree George L cable there, I dont think that will be an issue. Thanks for looking out though. I've been hanging the wireless on my belt so I can change guitars quickly. 

I'm like you though. I had a nice stand and it either got stolen or I left it at a gig. So, I'm back to just shoving them into the soft cases when I switch guitars. You see I could install one strap pin on either side of the input jack and this will lend some extra support when leaning it on a wall. In addition to adding more guitar position of course, ie more or less neck dive. I think I will just go with the flush mounts as usual though. I love them.....I dunno why....I just do.

I thought input position would be a nice change from "my" usual.


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## Renkenstein (Apr 16, 2015)

Yeah, that's totally cool. A George L cable would definitely do the trick, as would a strap button to balance the plug nubbin. Good deal, man.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 23, 2015)

Man that's looking cool so far.


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## pettymusic (Apr 24, 2015)

Well, spent the week at my dad's and we got a good bit completed.

Once I routed the neck pocket, I knew something was a miss. I decided to install the bridge and that would allow me to go ahead put the 1st and 6th strings on to see how the neck lines up with the string. Not good! I must have sanded a little too much on the bass side of the neck because, the taper goes into the 6th string. I remember doing this thinking I was too wide on that side for some reason. I compensated as much as I could with the neck but, there is not much that can be done. It will just have to be a great lesson for me to take to the next build. I didn't take many pictures because, I don't get phone service at my dad's place so, I didn't have my phone with me at all. ! other thing worth mentioning; I got it wired up and was getting a killer hum/ buzz. I triple checked my wiring and solder joints. Then finally (should have done this sooner), I broke out the multi-meter and started checking components. My output jack was sending the hot and the ground to the sleeve!! I had another output jack so, once replaced, the magic began!! Well, here it is thus far. I still need to make rear cavity covers. Then break it all down to apply the Tru Oil finish. It sounds awesome though and neck feels amazing until I try play the 10th fret and above on the 6th string. If I'm careful it's not an issue though. Once I apply the finish, I will do a final fret level on the neck-a-ma-jig and she will be butter in my hands!!!

Until next time..... 

Oh, I did take this pic:


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 24, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> Well, spent the week at my dad's and we got a good bit completed.
> 
> Once I routed the neck pocket, I knew something was a miss. I decided to install the bridge and that would allow me to go ahead put the 1st and 6th strings on to see how the neck lines up with the string. Not good! I must have sanded a little too much on the bass side of the neck because, the taper goes into the 6th string. I remember doing this thinking I was too wide on that side for some reason. I compensated as much as I could with the neck but, there is not much that can be done. It will just have to be a great lesson for me to take to the next build. I didn't take many pictures because, I don't get phone service at my dad's place so, I didn't have my phone with me at all. ! other thing worth mentioning; I got it wired up and was getting a killer hum/ buzz. I triple checked my wiring and solder joints. Then finally (should have done this sooner), I broke out the multi-meter and started checking components. My output jack was sending the hot and the ground to the sleeve!! I had another output jack so, once replaced, the magic began!! Well, here it is thus far. I still need to make rear cavity covers. Then break it all down to apply the Tru Oil finish. It sounds awesome though and neck feels amazing until I try play the 10th fret and above on the 6th string. If I'm careful it's not an issue though. Once I apply the finish, I will do a final fret level on the neck-a-ma-jig and she will be butter in my hands!!!



Man, that sucks, I've done it before myself but now I try to always mark out and drill for the bridge after the neck is fretted and mounted to the body by bolts or glue joint. That way the bridge is placed according to the neck and not according to what I determined to be the center line of the body before hand. I learned that the true centerline of the neck and bridge placement is subject to the accuracy of the neck and neck pocket, though I'd love if it always landed exactly on the body joint, it's just not always the case.


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## immortalx (Apr 24, 2015)

^ This is excellent advice

Petty, I'm not familiar with how the hannes bridge is installed, but you could probably fill and redrill the mounting holes, moving the whole bridge just a hair to the right.
Photo is a bit blurry, but it seems there's plenty of space from the fretboard edge on the high e, so i assume it's more of misalignment issue rather than a narrower fretboard.


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## Renkenstein (Apr 24, 2015)

I think those Hannes have a recess rout, so that may be the real killer. 

I haven't had to do this, but here's what I'd attempt.

Remove the neck and glue a couple shims into the side-wall of the pocket...one on each side. Once that's cured, use the 3 boards trick or a neck pocket jig to locate the alignment of the neck to the bridge...my threads show how I do this.

Once you have those boards positioned correctly, clamp them down and remove the neck. I'd then re-rout the pocket using the edges of the boards as a pattern for your bearing bit.

You may be able to see a little of the shims due to the new location of the pocket, but you can minimize that by using a wood that matches the top...or even use a top offcut.

If I were in that situation, and the guitar was intended for me personally, that's the way I'd do it.


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## dankarghh (Apr 25, 2015)

Man this is awesome. Congrats, but do what Renk said, or you'll regret it. Promise.


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## littleredguitars2 (Apr 25, 2015)

looks great. bummer about the neck pocket but you're right, its a lesson you'll certainly remember for next time.


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## pettymusic (Apr 25, 2015)

Unfortunately, I have threaded inserts so, I would have to fill and re-drill those in order to reposition the neck. When I installed the inserts, this came to be the best possible position. I know the pic is blurry (old galaxy phone and unsteady hands) but, the taper against the high 1st string runs perfect. The taper against 6th string starts to run into the string around the 13th fret or so. I thought about it and decided to go with this position because I would rather the 6th string run off the FB in an area I frequent less than the area at the 1st string, which I frequent pretty often. There were other things that have happened along the way that have encouraged me to realize a few things because, I am a perfectionist to the point where is can be counter productive. The things I have to remember are: This is my first build. I have little to no woodworking experience. Most of my tools are new to me and only a few of which I have ever touched in my life. 

I say these things because, when I started this build, I wanted every part of it to be perfect. I think I may be starting to realize that it's more about working with what you got, in a way that works for the situation. I plan on building more guitars so, as long as I can learn something from this build to apply to the next, I'm good to go. .....and I have learned an immense amount on this build. In a way, I'm kinda glad this and other mistakes have happened because it changes the way I think, work and react...in a good way. It forces me to improve something in my process. 

So, that said, I put the first coat of tru oil on the neck and will be doing the same to the body hopefully tonight. I'm going to hopefully be finished before our next show on the 17th. I was bummed that it wasn't ready for last night's show but, maybe the next one I will get to show it off!!!

Thanks for awesome advice guys!! As always you have the best ideas!!


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 25, 2015)

"The challenge of the first build is getting it completed and having a note come through the amp. The challenge of the second is to not repeat any of the stupid mistakes of the first. The challenge of the third is to not strip the first one for all of its parts."


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## immortalx (Apr 26, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> I say these things because, when I started this build, I wanted every part of it to be perfect. I think I may be starting to realize that it's more about working with what you got, in a way that works for the situation. I plan on building more guitars so, as long as I can learn something from this build to apply to the next, I'm good to go. .....and I have learned an immense amount on this build. In a way, I'm kinda glad this and other mistakes have happened because it changes the way I think, work and react...in a good way. It forces me to improve something in my process.



These are very wise words man  I too am of the same school of thought that prefers to get their hands dirty and learn from mistakes, rather than stay in theory for way too long.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 26, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> There were other things that have happened along the way that have encouraged me to realize a few things because, I am a perfectionist to the point where is can be counter productive. The things I have to remember are: This is my first build. I have little to no woodworking experience. Most of my tools are new to me and only a few of which I have ever touched in my life.
> 
> I say these things because, when I started this build, I wanted every part of it to be perfect. I think I may be starting to realize that it's more about working with what you got, in a way that works for the situation. I plan on building more guitars so, as long as I can learn something from this build to apply to the next, I'm good to go. .....and I have learned an immense amount on this build. In a way, I'm kinda glad this and other mistakes have happened because it changes the way I think, work and react...in a good way. It forces me to improve something in my process.



Good stuff man, my very first full scratch build never even came to be cause it was so crappy. It's still sitting in a box in pieces in a closet lol... that was about 5 years ago and today believe it or not I have only made one finished and fully playable guitar. probably about 10-12 necks and bodies total that were all learning/practice pieces, most of which were cheap woods that I never was really serious about anyway cause I knew I had alot to learn before putting cash into a serious build. But now I finally feel like I got the process down to build a full guitar, and I've got 2 on the way that'll both be done hopefully this year lol...

Funny thing is, now that I realize it, when I give people advice on this forum, I'm mostly speaking from experience I have from working on pieces that failed lol... and only one that worked.


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## fogcutter (Apr 26, 2015)

Just sayin' ... if this is your first experience with a full-scratch build, then I think your subsequent ones are going to be really impressive. Keep us posted on how the neck pocket/bridge thing pans out, this piece is looking pretty amazing!


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## pettymusic (Apr 26, 2015)

JuliusJahn said:


> "The challenge of the first build is getting it completed and having a note come through the amp. The challenge of the second is to not repeat any of the stupid mistakes of the first. The challenge of the third is to not strip the first one for all of its parts."



Lol! I am already finding the 3rd challenge to be difficult errr......impossible. My second build may be getting some of these parts!!

Thanks all! I thought about just scrapping this one and starting over but, I thought there might be more to learn. So, I continue. I put the first coat of tru oil on the neck and plan on working on the body.

Some lessons on the body I've learned so far... I thought those clamping impressions would sand out much easier than they are. Matter of fact, I left a lot of things in the cutting process thinking that sanding them out would not be an issue. Router burns, uneven cuts due to lifting or just not keeping the router flat ....so, just think of the lessons I could have missed by scrapping this thing. 

Another thing that I missed: I forgot to check the string spacing of the bridge and ordered the 50mm spaced bridge...doh!! Yep, as many times as I've ordered pickups and never made this mistake....ha! Anyway, I got a 53mm on the way. 

Well, now it's on to finishing. Still a bit to go but, I'm excited to be this close.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Apr 26, 2015)

JuliusJahn said:


> "The challenge of the first build is getting it completed and having a note come through the amp. The challenge of the second is to not repeat any of the stupid mistakes of the first. The challenge of the third is to not strip the first one for all of its parts."



HAHA lol, Thats exactly where I'm at right now, I have a third build going on and I'm thinking about scavenging the bridge off my first build to use for it. That explains my logic pretty well...


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## pettymusic (Apr 27, 2015)

Yeah, knowing me, this build will end up a skeleton of it's former self. I will hang it somewhere as it is very important to me now. Besides the fact that it's my first build, my dad helped me with it. 

Here's a pic after 2 coats of tru oil. I created a slurry with 220 grit for the top on the first coat. I'm just going to keep building it up from here.


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## immortalx (Apr 27, 2015)

Damn, DAT neck!


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## pettymusic (Apr 27, 2015)

immortalx said:


> Damn, DAT neck!



Thanks! I think I love rosewood!! ...for neck wood that is. I don't really care for it as fretboard. I understand why it is widely used but, I don't really care for it. 

I love the feel of ebony as a fretboard. I wouldn't mind trying out something different though. May have to do that pretty soon


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## JuliusJahn (Apr 27, 2015)

Expect to hit 12-15 coats!


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## pettymusic (May 11, 2015)

JuliusJahn said:


> Expect to hit 12-15 coats!



Yup! I stop @ 14 coats on the top. The alder body was there much quicker.


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## pettymusic (May 11, 2015)

Ok, guys. All that is left is the rear cavity covers. I have been playing this beast of a guitar and I find it very hard to put it down every time. I love the way the rosewood neck feels, the EVO Gold frets are amazing, and the tone is crushing!!!

Many mistakes were made. Some I should have known better and others were out of my control all together. All in all, it was an extremely pleasant experience! I'm really glad my dad was able to help me on this build as it makes it that much more special to me. For the neck profile, I ended up making it 20mm @ 1st fret with a rounded, kinda thin PRS style. As it gets to the 5th fret it starts to flatten out like an Ibanez profile but, not quite as flat or thin. 

One change that I made: I couldn't help myself. I liked the tone of the Titan pups but, I just had to throw an aftermath in the bridge....took it to a whole 'nother level!!! HAha!

I will post a NGD once I complete the rear covers but, here's some nice photos for now:


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## immortalx (May 11, 2015)

E.G.B.S. (Extreme Guitar Building Syndrome)

First symptom :
- Subject considers guitar finished before fabricating cavity covers

^ I believe that happens to all of us 

Joking aside, this is a great guitar for a first build and I hope you'll build loads more man!


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## neurosis (May 11, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> Many mistakes were made.



If anything is wrong I can´t see it. But I know that creative/maker scrutiny all too well myself. By the looks of it I think you´ll soon forget about what could have been because this came out stelar. Quiet honestly. And the finish you gave must feel really good in your hands. It´s just an overall great looking axe. 

happy for you man. Enjoy!


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## pettymusic (May 11, 2015)

immortalx said:


> E.G.B.S. (Extreme Guitar Building Syndrome




I totally have this!!


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## pettymusic (Jun 3, 2015)

Alright guys, did an NGD thread here

I added a recording to go along with it. More builds to come!!


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## fastmerc (Aug 28, 2015)

Man Im late to this as I was away from SSO for awhile with life things...but what a great first job. Sorry to hear about the neck. One day I will seriously have to get over there and at least see the setup and such. My garage is way too full of other junk right now for me to have a proper work area, but Im slowly working on that.


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## pettymusic (Sep 1, 2015)

fastmerc said:


> Man Im late to this as I was away from SSO for awhile with life things...but what a great first job. Sorry to hear about the neck. One day I will seriously have to get over there and at least see the setup and such. My garage is way too full of other junk right now for me to have a proper work area, but Im slowly working on that.



I know what you mean! I wouldn't call my workspace proper either. My wife's van takes up half of it and I only have 1 workbench. So, when I need the drill press, I move it from the floor to the bench, same with the planer, bandsaw, etc. It's all good though, as long as I can make it work, I will. Building guitars is my meditation........and I needs my meditation!!!


Yeah man, I'll be glad to show you around. It will good to have another builder fairly close too.


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