# Floyd FRT-O2000



## potatohead (Feb 12, 2010)

What's the deal with these "OFR's" Jackson is putting on the Japanese Soloists? From what I can see online they are real Floyd units, but made in China as opposed to Germany?

Anyone know?


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## Toshiro (Feb 12, 2010)

Aren't they made in Korea not China? The one my Charvel So Cal had wasn't bad, but wasn't OFR quality either.


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## yellowv (Feb 13, 2010)

They are made by Ping in China. They are pretty damn good quality. Not as good as Schaller though.


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## MaxOfMetal (Feb 13, 2010)

Fender owns both Jackson and FR, so they can name it a Floyd Rose 1937362837+ and still call it a "Real Floyd Rose", regardless of where it's made and the quality of components/materials. 

That being said they aren't bad at all, and one of the better non-Schaller/Gotoh made trems I've seen.


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## oremus91 (Feb 15, 2010)

The trem on my RL-600 is a korean made "original" floyd but it feels very close to the same with no tuning stability issues, that's why I say it's the same deal jut made in korea.


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## troyguitar (Feb 15, 2010)

They are Korean and they are pretty nice. I have no issues with the one on my RR.


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## potatohead (Feb 15, 2010)

Hmmm, good to know. I would still like to swing an SL2H but depending on wait times I may go with the SLAT3. I've never had actives either so it may be a good change.


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## Dead Undead (Feb 27, 2011)

yellowv said:


> They are made by Ping in China. They are pretty damn good quality. Not as good as Schaller though.



Ping makes nice Floyds and for about $30 cheaper than OFR's. And they're typically better, like they sometimes have brass tone blocks and such. Still they're pretty wimpy blocks. I'd replace them with FU big blocks.

The FRTO2000 is no exception. Otherwise, why would they put them on Charvels? They're basically OFR's made with cheaper labour. All the same stuff, but made by different people.

EDIT:
Just realized how old this thread is. XD
How deep is the block on one of these?


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## Rook (Feb 28, 2011)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but here's what I thought:

'OFR' (Original Floyd Rose) applies to the _shape_, i.e. the profile of the trem, so any trem bearing the Floyd Rose name in the Original profile (like the Original Edge from Ibanez) can be referred to as Original Floyd Rose - misleading to say the least.

For it to be an 'Authentic' OFR, it has to say Schaller on the sustain block I believe. I was told that the new Charvels had OFRs and tried it and just thought... This isn't a German trem... I have a couple of guitars with German OFRs and this didn't feel right. Interesting that somebody has now confirmed this, because nobody else had to this point.

I expected it was Ping made, I think there are only 2 or 3 factories allowed to make 'licensed under Floyd Rose' trems.


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## yellowv (Feb 28, 2011)

It has been common knowledge for about 2 years since the USA production Charvels came put that the Flyds weren't schaller made. Also I know for a fact the Korean BC Rich's and I believe LTDs use the same trem.


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## Rossness (Feb 28, 2011)

They're great trems. I have them an a few of my guitars. It's the same as a German made floyd, just made in Asia. The only difference is the trem arm is a little thinner.


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## eaeolian (Feb 28, 2011)

Dead Undead said:


> Ping makes nice Floyds and for about $30 cheaper than OFR's. And they're typically better, like they sometimes have brass tone blocks and such. Still they're pretty wimpy blocks. I'd replace them with FU big blocks.



Just FYI, every OFR has a brass block - they're just plated so they don't tarnish.

I just got a bigger brass block for one of mine, so we'll see what it does to the tone.


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## ArrowHead (Feb 28, 2011)

I've found a lot of conflicting info on various websites about the different Floyds available now. Some sites say they're the same. Some say one is made in china, one is made in korea. Some say both are made in one or the other. Some say they're the same bridge.

What I know is that there is the Floyd Rose "Special": FRT-S1000/2000 which is asian made (likely china, but some still are saying korea) and is much closer to an OFR than a typical licensed Floyd. However, it is NOT identical. The saddle blocks are Zinc instead of steel, and have a beveled edge at the back instead of squared.

Then there is the FRT-o2000 this thread speaks of, which is coming on some Jacksons and the Charvel guitars. SOME people say it's identical to the "Special", and has the same zinc blocks. Others say it is IDENTICAL to the OFR. One guy on the Jem forum says he scratched his block and it was, in fact, coated zinc. (this was on a so-cal Charvel). Most say it's made in Korea, while the special is made in china. (Although, some say the Special is also made in Korea)

Sorry to confuse things even more, just trying to get across the completely different information I've come across while trying to learn about these things.


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## eaeolian (Feb 28, 2011)

The 1000 series is supposed to be identical construction to the OFR, just made in Korea. The 2000 series is supposed to be made in China, and is the same as the "Special", with zinc saddles, etc.

Straight from my Jackson rep.


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## MesaENGR412 (Mar 2, 2011)

I own two guitars that came with Floyd Rose 1000 bridges and I swapped one for a German Made true black Original Floyd Rose (bridge and nut included in box set). I have noticed a few differences between the two, so I figured I'd share them since this is a Floyd Rose thread. Assuming some differences between the 1000 and 02000 bridges, I am guessing this can still apply to that bridge as well. I also had an ESP LTD MH-1000 and it had a black chrome version of the FR-1000, and it showed the same qualities as this nickel FR-1000, actually a little worse because it didn't take long for the bridge saddles to wear down to a brushed look, with the 'chromed' look wearing off really fast. 

OFR = Original Floyd Rose
FR1000 = Floyd Rose 1000

Here is what I have found:

1: The "tone block" on the OFR is deeper and wider than the FR1000's, to the point that when I up-pull on the OFR, it actually hits the plastic spring cover on the back of the guitar.

2: The pivot point of the OFR is a little different than that of the FR1000, when set at the same height. I am guessing this is because of the longer tone block.

3. The bridge plate on the OFR is a little thinner, and more cleanly bent around the fine tuners. 

4: The saddle locking screws on the OFR are made of a different, harder metal (not pot metal) and appear to be either ion plated or powdercoated. The Saddle screws on the FR1000 have a slightly different shape, and are painted black. These tend to get grimy with sweat gunk, and need cleaned a lot more than the OFR's. I guess because of the tacky quality of it being painted. They are also a softer metal than the OFR's and you have to be extremely careful not to strip the hex end out when tightening and loosening.

5: the nut screws on the OFR are made from the same metal as the saddle screws (and same color treatment to make them black), and are a lot harder, and won't strip. I have already stripped the nut screws on the FR1000, and replaced them once. They are just painted black as well. 

6: The sustain is close, but I think it is just a _little bit_ better on the OFR. Both stay in tune extremely well, and the playability on each is just fine. 

Here are some pictures of what I am talking about:
OFR






FR1000





OFR nut:





FR1000 nut:





-AJH


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## Dead Undead (Mar 2, 2011)

eaeolian said:


> Just FYI, every OFR has a brass block - they're just plated so they don't tarnish.
> 
> I just got a bigger brass block for one of mine, so we'll see what it does to the tone.



Didn't know that. Thanks!

So the FRT-O2000 has zinc saddles? Ew.

Well I guess the thing is, if I got a guitar with one of those, would you recommend to replace it or just leave it?


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## Rook (Mar 3, 2011)

Dead Undead said:


> Didn't know that. Thanks!
> 
> So the FRT-O2000 has zinc saddles? Ew.
> 
> Well I guess the thing is, if I got a guitar with one of those, would you recommend to replace it or just leave it?


 
Does it sound good?

If it ain't broke don't fix it, lol.


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## Dead Undead (Mar 3, 2011)

Fun111 said:


> Does it sound good?
> 
> If it ain't broke don't fix it, lol.



It sounds fine on the Charvel's I've played. I'm just worried about the lifespan of zinc saddles. I've had problems with zinc parts in the past, but they were REALLY cheap. Maybe these are better? They felt pretty sturdy on the ones I've played.


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## noizfx (Mar 4, 2011)

From what I know...

Original Floyd Roses are made of steel, and made in Germany (by Schaller).

Floyd Rose FRT series, with the x000 numbers, are made with the same materials as the OFRs, but in Korea instead.

Floyd Rose Specials, and made in Korea, but with zinc alloy instead of steel.

The above are all "made by" Floyd Rose company, from their different OEM factories. Other licensed floyds are made else where not by Floyd Rose.


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## kherman (Mar 5, 2011)

I agree with Noizfx. 
I thought there was only 3 series in the OFR style trems.
OFR
FRT
Special

I always thought the # designation represented finish on the FRT Floyds.

1000=Chrome
2000= Black
3000= Gold
5000= Black Chrome.


OK HERE.
Right from the Floyd Rose website.

_The Floyd Rose Tremolo System is used by more professionals throughout the world than any other. No copy can duplicate the patented double-locking design of the Floyd Rose Tremolo System that allows you to lock your guitar in tune at the nut and at the bridge.

The Floyd Rose Tremolo System is engineered like no other Tremolo System. Its high quality steel parts are manufactured to exacting specifications. And it's available in a variety of nut sizes that will fit practically any electric guitar. The very first Floyd Rose Double Locking System can be viewed here. 

Floyd Rose makes three versions of the Floyd Rose Original Style Tremolo: 

&#8226;Floyd Rose OriginaL
&#8226;Floyd Rose 1000 Series 
&#8226;Floyd Rose Special Series

All three units are produced exclusively for Floyd Rose by our Handpicked Manufacturers:

The Floyd Rose Original is produced in Germany and is our flagship model.
The Floyd Rose 1000 Series is made in Korea. An excellent unit mirrored after the Original and is only available OEM.
The Floyd Rose Special Series is also made in Korea. This is our version of the licensed tremolo. This unit is well manufactured and is as good if not better than any other licensed version Floyd Rose. We also stand behind this bridge 100%.

_

Floyd Rose Bridges - The Ultimate Titanium, Original, Special, Pro, SpeedLoader


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## SirMyghin (Mar 5, 2011)

noizfx said:


> From what I know...
> 
> Original Floyd Roses are made of steel, and made in Germany (by Schaller).
> 
> ...




The steel baseplate is really the big difference in the OFR and other quality trems, you do not have the issues associated with knife edge wear (which leads to tuning instability) for these materials.


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## Toshiro (Mar 5, 2011)

My friend's SoCal MIK Floyd is holding up okay, no real wear yet.

I swapped the one on my Charvel for a Gotoh, which is way better, IMO.


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## eaeolian (Apr 27, 2011)

Dead Undead said:


> Didn't know that. Thanks!
> 
> So the FRT-O2000 has zinc saddles? Ew.
> 
> Well I guess the thing is, if I got a guitar with one of those, would you recommend to replace it or just leave it?



To resurrect this, I got the info wrong: The FRT-O2000 is the same construction as the O1000 (basically a Korean-made OFR) - the 2000 designates that it's black - and the Special series is totally different and I don't understand it at all. 

Edit: kherman has it right.


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## Wakizashi (May 30, 2011)

Hello all,

I was trying to be detective, too. So I informed product manager of BC Rich (Got Warbeast WMD) and got statement that there are those three units. ORF (Schaller- Germany), (ORF from Korea - FRT Ox0000 - I believe that O is shortcut for ORF specification and number is only for color and has five variation, I believe) and then there is licensed one, called Special (FRT Sx0000 made in China?).

More Higher end guitars of Jackson, BC Rich, LTD, Charvel use them as OEM. While the unit is quite good, I am not sure if it can be compared to German ORF or Gotoh units. The feel was quite same as on my BC Rich Warbeast WMD as on Jackson Kelly 5 FR. After some messing with that I can say It was off by few cents. Not sure, the problem could be caused by strings (I use now 9s and there were surely 9s too - maybe 10s would be more stable) or not great springs (have anybody tried stability of triangle vs parallel configuration?). 

Those units cannot be that bad. Have not tried Specials ones, so I cannot compare them to FRT O's. Many people thinks they are same quality as Schaller. I was just surprised with the size of sustain block, which seemed quite small, not sure, if Schaller's are the same size.


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## sell2792 (May 31, 2011)

I've played Gotoh, Schaller Originals, and the Korean/Chinese "Originals," and I've found I seem to like the Gotohs a little better. However, I find that between the Schaller and Ping Originals I've used, they are almost the exact same in fit, feel, function, and finish.


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## eaeolian (May 31, 2011)

I've only got a 7 string 1000 series Floyd, and so far it seems to be of equal quality to the Schaller ones I see now. However, only time will tell - I have Schaller Floyds that are pushing 25 years old and still work great.


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## Strobe (May 31, 2011)

I have the Floyd FRT-02000 on my Jackson RR24. I have no issues with it. It was set up very well (which says nothing about the equipment, but something about the quality at the Japanese factory that made it).

More to the point, I have been playing it for about a year now and it definitely retains tuning and intonation well. The sustain is good - although I am certain that it would benefit from a larger block from Floyd Upgrades.

My only complaint - and I am not sure if this is different on other more costly models - I am not a big fan of the tremolo arm and the arm-locking mechanism. Specifically, I would prefer if it had more resistance to rotation. It tends to want to hang down due to gravity. I can tighten it up to improve this, but it wants to loosen up with use. It is a relatively minor complaint - overall I am quite satisfied with it.


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## Dead Undead (Jun 1, 2011)

Strobe said:


> I have the Floyd FRT-02000 on my Jackson RR24. I have no issues with it. It was set up very well (which says nothing about the equipment, but something about the quality at the Japanese factory that made it).
> 
> More to the point, I have been playing it for about a year now and it definitely retains tuning and intonation well. The sustain is good - although I am certain that it would benefit from a larger block from Floyd Upgrades.
> 
> My only complaint - and I am not sure if this is different on other more costly models - I am not a big fan of the tremolo arm and the arm-locking mechanism. Specifically, I would prefer if it had more resistance to rotation. It tends to want to hang down due to gravity. I can tighten it up to improve this, but it wants to loosen up with use. It is a relatively minor complaint - overall I am quite satisfied with it.



Unfortunately I've had the same problem with every Floyd unit I've used. I'v heard you can use something in the bushing to make it tight though. I'd search the forum, there's some useful thread on exactly that topic.


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## TRENCHLORD (Jun 1, 2011)

Yeah thats the ONLY thing I prefer on my rgt's edge2 trem, the arm height and its tightness are adjustable. I have it setup where it's a little easier for me to play while holding the tremelo and the swing tension is as loose as possible without being swinging/vibrating loose. I'm still a floyd original fan because the screws(especially intone screws) don't strip out often even if your tweeking setups on a regular basis.


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## Wakizashi (Jun 29, 2011)

Hello,

well ok. While I wrote the system is sometimes going off, it is not that bad if even. Returning is ok. I had to lube it a bit and before playing is good to move with the arm few times and check it again if it is in tune, and if it's not (temperature - small bite of underneath screws which are holding the spring plate may move a little bit), if it is not in tune, then tune it and it will be mostly 100% stable. 

I was messing with the bar (dives, whacking) quite often my last session and guitar was in tune.

To the user, who has problem with the arm, which is going down, try to use some sticky tape for the end of the arm. It should be better. Also the feel with be a bit stiffer and more control for the arm.


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## Orange Jackson (Sep 19, 2013)

Strobe said:


> I have the Floyd FRT-02000 on my Jackson RR24. I have no issues with it. It was set up very well (which says nothing about the equipment, but something about the quality at the Japanese factory that made it).
> 
> More to the point, I have been playing it for about a year now and it definitely retains tuning and intonation well. The sustain is good - although I am certain that it would benefit from a larger block from Floyd Upgrades.
> 
> My only complaint - and I am not sure if this is different on other more costly models - I am not a big fan of the tremolo arm and the arm-locking mechanism. Specifically, I would prefer if it had more resistance to rotation. It tends to want to hang down due to gravity. I can tighten it up to improve this, but it wants to loosen up with use. It is a relatively minor complaint - overall I am quite satisfied with it.



Hey guys!

Was searching the net to find some info on the trem on my new Jackson DK2m, thanks for the help!

Wanted to drop off a tip that really works well for me with loose trem arms.








Most hardware stores will carry this type of ear plug, you just cut the stem off the plug and place that down into the trem arm hole. This stem compresses a little bit when you screw the trem arm down on top of it, and this little bit of tension keeps the trem arm just where you leave it. IIRC, I'm using about 85% of the stem. Works really well, and lasts for a long time. 







.


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## lobotom (Sep 20, 2013)

Orange Jackson said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> Was searching the net to find some info on the trem on my new Jackson DK2m, thanks for the help!
> 
> ...


 
Great tip. I've been using a small piece of a pencil eraser and works great. Just cut it to desired size. If you like to "flutter"? this definitely helps.


Alex


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