# When 6 and 7 strings aren´t enough.. 8 string build!



## jarnozz (Mar 18, 2013)

As of today I officially started this build. I´m aiming on updating this threat every Monday.
I´m thinking of making a drastic career change and become a luthier/musician. I'm following my heart and passion now.
Small chance on big successes in life, but at least I'm happy.

enough of me and more about building!

The glorious spec list:

woods used:
flamed Maple
Walnut
Wenge
Swamp ash
Bloodwood

hardware:
Golden locking tuners 4x4
Golden hipshot bridge
Golden knobs
golden straplocks
graphite nut
1 way thrust rod (carbon fiber reinforced)

pickups:
Dimarzio D-activators

scale length:
27 inch

Frets:
24 stainless steel

finish:
danish oil
satin neck

I already got my woods! 



























Hope I can finish the templates before next week and hopefully routed have some work on the neck/wings done!


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## JEngelking (Mar 18, 2013)

Some nice chunks of wood you got there.
Looking forward to seeing the progress!  Any idea on the body styling you're gonna go for?


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## Curt (Mar 18, 2013)

Will be following closely.


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## CaptainLuckeyBeard (Mar 18, 2013)

I love bloodwood! Definitely keeping an eye on this


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## ElRay (Mar 18, 2013)

Nice start. I added the "member built" tag. Don't forget to post over here: Guitars built by members of SS.org [Pic-heavy] when you're done.

Ray


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## jarnozz (Mar 21, 2013)

Urgent question! 
When I uss fret2find, or something like that, something goes wrong. I enter 54 mm at the nut and 80 at the 24th fret. When I printed the fretboard the 80mm measures corectly. But when I measure the nut it measures 61.. Am I doing something wrong? I cant make the templates until I get this right... 

Jarno


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## foreright (Mar 21, 2013)

Hey - if you look carefully at that site, the "nut" measurement is actually the "string width at the nut" and NOT the width of the nut... the total nut width will be the "string width" plus twice the "fretboard overhang".

In your specific case, you want to enter 47mm as the string width as presumably your fretboard overhang is 3.5mm for a total of 54mm...

HTH!

EDIT: Apologies... this assumes you are using FretFind2D


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## Necromagnon (Mar 21, 2013)

foreright said:


> Hey - if you look carefully at that site, the "nut" measurement is actually the "string width at the nut" and NOT the width of the nut... the total nut width will be the "string width" plus twice the "fretboard overhang".
> 
> In your specific case, you want to enter 47mm as the string width as presumably your fretboard overhang is 3.5mm for a total of 54mm...
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info man! I've got the same question as OP, and didn't see that... 
Nice wood choice here. Classic, but efficient!


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## jarnozz (Mar 21, 2013)

foreright said:


> Hey - if you look carefully at that site, the "nut" measurement is actually the "string width at the nut" and NOT the width of the nut... the total nut width will be the "string width" plus twice the "fretboard overhang".
> 
> In your specific case, you want to enter 47mm as the string width as presumably your fretboard overhang is 3.5mm for a total of 54mm...
> 
> ...



Thanks man! You saved my day!! Hopevit works out with a hipshot bridge XD


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## Frank_Domine (Mar 21, 2013)

Seems interesting, awaiting for news


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## jarnozz (Mar 25, 2013)

Made a mock up last week. 






This friday I will make a template for the neck, cut it out with a bigass saw and work in a professional workshop! with the guidance of a luthier who happens to be my co worker 

stay tuned


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## Necromagnon (Mar 25, 2013)

jarnozz said:


>


It depends on if you use the intermediate position, but I personnaly never, and thus get the pu selector out and I use instead a push/push volume pot to switch pu. Minimalist, efficient, perfect. 

Your design is nice, very Mayonnes inspired, for all the best. One thing is that I'd just reduce the hole on the headstock. It's a bit to large and so the smal "tips" that left on both sides are a bit to small. It will be very fragile, and it doesn't look so glorious, imo.


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## jarnozz (Mar 25, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> It depends on if you use the intermediate position, but I personnaly never, and thus get the pu selector out and I use instead a push/push volume pot to switch pu. Minimalist, efficient, perfect.
> 
> Your design is nice, very Mayonnes inspired, for all the best. One thing is that I'd just reduce the hole on the headstock. It's a bit to large and so the smal "tips" that left on both sides are a bit to small. It will be very fragile, and it doesn't look so glorious, imo.



Not really a fan of a push pull to be honest. except for coil splitting. I like it there, have it on my 7 at the exact same spot.

Not sure about the hole in the headstock. prob won't do that and make it smooth. it will have a 2 cm abalone disk in the center. Looks great on wenge


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## BlackMastodon (Mar 25, 2013)

Very nice design, and I recognize that headstock shape as the Agile Intrepid one with just a small cutout, no?. I personally love that Agile headstock so my vote would go towards not doing the notch.


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## jarnozz (Mar 28, 2013)

damn.. I´ve printed out my mockup only to find out it´s not gonna work. When measuring the scale length I found out that it was actually 26.88 instead of 27... total bummer. Fretfind2d isn´t my piece of cake I guess.. guess it won´t be a big issue. except for the fact that I now have a 26.88 inch scale. Could be the way I´m printing it. I really don´t know


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## Necromagnon (Mar 28, 2013)

Printers are not 100% accurate, that can be a reason. Also, how did you print it? On a huge printer that can print A0 format? Or with a standard home printer on several A4? Because the second can also add many errors when joining sheets together.


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## jarnozz (Mar 28, 2013)

Standard a4 for the fingerboard. The rest is drawn by hand. Guess I'll have to draw it by hand as well... Or print it at a shop.


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## Necromagnon (Mar 28, 2013)

jarnozz said:


> Standard a4 for the fingerboard. The rest is drawn by hand. Guess I'll have to draw it by hand as well... Or print it at a shop.


Draw it by hand, it's not really hard. A straight line for the scale, a perpendicular for the nut, another for the 24th, and 2 straight lines for the sides. If you've already done the rest of the plan by hand, this should be done in 2 min, max.


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## jarnozz (Apr 4, 2013)

been drawing the neck and rough shaping it! made some template for it and started on the wings. Too bad the saw blade is blunt as fuck and I need to wait another 2 weeks before the handmade blade is here.... having a luthier buddy can be useful! This is his workshop


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## Necromagnon (Apr 5, 2013)

Where is it, where is it...

Ah, there:





The headstock looks a bit thin, no? Or it's just an impression. Looks good!


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## jarnozz (Apr 5, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Where is it, where is it...
> 
> Ah, there:
> 
> ...



The headstock is 14mm think, same as a normal Ibanez headstock! it will have a 2mm piece of wenge on top of it so 16mm in total


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## Kammo1 (Apr 5, 2013)

Bro love the look of that drum sander  any info and price ? Do they ship to the UK ?


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## jarnozz (Apr 5, 2013)

Kammo1 said:


> Bro love the look of that drum sander  any info and price ? Do they ship to the UK ?



No idea xD It´s not mine. I believe it was 700 florin back in 97. This model is probably outdated and shipping a 30 kg tool to the uk would be pretty retarded. Plenty of dealers around there search the good old internet


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## jarnozz (Apr 26, 2013)

Finally! got the saw blade











also flattened the back flush, flattened the headstock but forgot to take pictures. Next week I'll be, sawing and slotting the fretboard, shaping the neck, sawing the wings, routing a thrustrod channel! my to do list xD

cheers!


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## jarnozz (May 10, 2013)

Finally got the time to work on her again! It finally looks guitar/like, hehe. I´m very pleased with the outcome and Damn, I do want a band saw and a planer... kind of must have tools. So damn fast. I literary spend 3 hours measuring and drawing today and 20 minutes of sawing and planing.. Next up, sanding..  and shaping the neck, headstock.

Here're some pictures
















I know, Looks like a mayones, but then 10 times cheaper 

see ya!


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## Necromagnon (May 10, 2013)

Nice pics, except this horrible instagram like filter...


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## jarnozz (May 10, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Nice pics, except this horrible instagram like filter...



That was the fault of the little hipster inside of me.. Will take some shots with a decent camera without filters


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## kgerbick7321 (May 10, 2013)

THis will be awesome, looking forward to the finished product


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## jarnozz (May 11, 2013)

Necromagnon, Better?


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## Necromagnon (May 11, 2013)

jarnozz said:


> Necromagnon, Better?


Aaaaaaaaaaaah!
Now, we're talking.





This ash is pretty nice. I like ash when it comes from flat sawn with roundy veins.


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## jarnozz (May 14, 2013)

Question: where Do I buy 8 string, wood mountable pickups for an 8 string.. All I can find here are emg 808's, blackouts, and dimarzio D-activators, but they dont have a base for wood mounting.. I'm stuck..


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## Walterson (May 14, 2013)

jarnozz said:


> Question: where Do I buy 8 string, wood mountable pickups for an 8 string.. All I can find here are emg 808's, blackouts, and dimarzio D-activators, but they dont have a base for wood mounting.. I'm stuck..



I do not get what you mean - all pickups I know are mountable to wood.


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## Necromagnon (May 14, 2013)

Walterson said:


> I do not get what you mean - all pickups I know are mountable to wood.


This.

You probably need to remove the thread from the holes on the base plate to allow the screw to come through without be threaded in. But every pup is mountable directly. I installed a set of BKP Aftermath/Cold Sweat with open bobbins directly on wood, it works out perfectly. You just might need some "wood" screws instead of the standard metal screws that come with the pups.
Something like these:


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## jarnozz (May 14, 2013)

Walterson said:


> I do not get what you mean - all pickups I know are mountable to wood.



I want this:





all I can get is 






I instaled dimarzio pickups on my other guitar and had quit a hard time getting them in place, adjusting them isn't very nice i must say. 

So just put a screw without a threat at the top with the same diameter would be all? + some foam to lift the pickup when needed.


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## Necromagnon (May 14, 2013)

jarnozz said:


> So just put a screw without a threat at the top with the same diameter would be all? + some foam to lift the pickup when needed.


Normally, it should work. As I said, you'll probably have to drill on the threaded part on the base plate to allow the screw to move freely (but not too large hole).


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## jarnozz (May 14, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Normally, it should work. As I said, you'll probably have to drill on the threaded part on the base plate to allow the screw to move freely (but not too large hole).



Thanks man! tomorrow I have a day of so I´ll be doing a lot of work! hope to sand the body to it´s final shape, shape the neck and headstock and order some goodies!


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## ShiftKey (May 14, 2013)

the set of D-active 8's i got came with a drill bit to widen the hole..


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## jarnozz (Jun 5, 2013)

Got some more work done. Shaped the neck, headstock and fretboard. and got some nice little things too!






two 50cm carbon fiber rods and a dual action trust rod.





Locking tuners.





Mother of god, Ivory binding looks supreme on bloodwood, Def a good choice!





With a fret hammer named THOR, frets MUST go in without a hassle.





Stay tuned


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## Necromagnon (Jun 5, 2013)

I agree with the bloodwood/ivory wedding...


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## jarnozz (Jun 10, 2013)

Update!

Routing the channels 






Epoxy´d the carbon fiber rods 






Got my Pickups today! very stoked about these. I was planning on getting 2 regular D-activators when Magic_golem offered me some D activators zebra pickups with black poles. Awesome score!


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## Navid (Jun 10, 2013)

Good stuff, looks great!


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## patata (Jun 10, 2013)

Immense


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## ShiftKey (Jun 11, 2013)

hehe glad they arrived all nice and ready to go into a kick ass guitar


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## jarnozz (Jun 11, 2013)

magic_golem said:


> hehe glad they arrived all nice and ready to go into a kick ass guitar



Thanks again mate!


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## jarnozz (Jun 11, 2013)

Fret slots are slotted! man what a work xD


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## Gram negative (Jun 11, 2013)

This thing is going to be sooooo cool when youre done.


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## Necromagnon (Jun 11, 2013)

Beware: I think your frets are a bit short, it might not hurt enough when playing.


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## jarnozz (Jun 11, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Beware: I think your frets are a bit short, it might not hurt enough when playing.



Was worried about that as well, but no worries! I will give them a dress to make them razor sharp for insane action


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## jarnozz (Jun 14, 2013)

So I did a little more work today. 

I was thinking of a way to get the neck through part flush with the body. I thought of making a router table. 
Then It hit me, with a few left over laminate planks and some sticky tape I made this!






God I love sticky tape. 

After a brutal accident when one of those little stones that sits on sanding paper landed in my eye I wear safety goggles. It got stuck between my eyelid and moved up. Had to go to the doctor and had my eyeball flushed with water to remove it... 

So now I start protecting the goods 





router the fretboard flush and made a 1.5 mm cut in it for the binding.






And I screwed up routing the board. Bloodwood is quit brittle and easy to chip. I started routing on the left while I should have started on the right. Stupid mistake... So now I plan on putting the binding on, then filling the hole with epoxy mixed with some sawdust from the 70cm board of bloodwood I have as a left over xD my wood supplier thought I could use a 1.30 meter long board for 10 euros.. 






more coming soon!


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## icos211 (Jun 14, 2013)

I've always heard that you should never rout bloodwood...


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## jarnozz (Jun 14, 2013)

icos211 said:


> I've always heard that you should never rout bloodwood...



It's doable but you need to work carefully, what I forgot about for 2
Seconds... I had no further problems routing bloodwood. Sanding takes ages simce it's pretty dence wood


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## jarnozz (Jun 17, 2013)

sawed the top and haedstock out of the wenge. Then it started raining and I wanted a cup of coffee.


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## jarnozz (Jun 18, 2013)

A long one this time.

I´ll explain the process I went through step by step since I´ve been asked over 20 times how I put a top on a neck through guitar and how to make one.
I hope all is clear and that all of your question will be answered.

This is my approach and I know a lot of you guys do certain things in different ways. 

1. I started out with figuring out all the measurements I wanted and needed for this guitar. After some thinking I ended up with a 4cm thick piece of ash for the body, a 7 mm piece of wenge for the top. 6mm piece of bloodwood for the fretboard and an 10 cm think neck blank. ( If I screwed it up I'd have another blank and my supplier didn't charge me anything extra since this would have been cut of and thrown away anyway!)

2. I started with the neck. I planed the top where I intend to put the fingerboard. I then drew the headstock, neck, heel and bottom on the blank and used a handy tool called a belt saw. Note: for the body I took the 4.7 cm think body and added 2 mm so that the fretboard is raised just a bit above the top when it comes together. that makes the total thick 4.9 cm.

3. after the neck was cut out it was time for the wings. (sides of the body) Then is was time to glue them to the neck. I measured the space between the neck and body to make sure I have a 9 mm difference in height. 

4. started shaping the headstock neck and heel based on what feels comfortable to me. 

5. made the fingerboard and sawed the fretslots. 

6. the top, ( what most people ask me)

It's really not that difficult. It takes some nerve, focus and concentration. like all stages of a build 

I started with making the part of the neck, that is past the end of the fretboard, flush with the wings. 

Layed the body on top of the wenge and marked the outlines, cut them roughly afterwards. 

Then I put some tape on top of the part where the fretboard should go. I scraped a pencil across the 90° angle to get a precise print. This is what you are going to cut out of your top. 






Here you see the tape with the print on the wenge top. 

Now the next thing is to do is to cut out this square with a handsaw. I find using a very sharp, thin bladed, handsaw to work very precisely. take your time with it and don´t rush. Let the saw cut the wood not you forcing it. I had No tear out, not even the smallest splinter when finished cutting. 

I always stay slightly away from the actual line and then hand grind it using a straight piece of anything with sandpaper stucked to it. sticky tape helps a lot!

after all this I ended up with this!






Nice and tight fit!

here is it all together, It´s starting to look really good






I hope this helped some of you in some way!



Jarno


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## Necromagnon (Jun 18, 2013)

I'm usually not a huge fan of wenge top, but with this bloodwood fretboard, it looks really awesome!


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## ThatBeardGuy (Jun 18, 2013)

That looks tasty. The body in the second picture kinda looks like it's a cake, vanilla body with some nice chocolate frosting for the top


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## jarnozz (Jun 18, 2013)

ThatBeardGuy said:


> That looks tasty. The body in the second picture kinda looks like it's a cake, vanilla body with some nice chocolate frosting for the top



haha thanks man, not sure this one is eatable though


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## FruitCakeRonin (Jun 19, 2013)

What happened to the fretboard? Did you fix it?


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## jarnozz (Jun 19, 2013)

FruitCakeRonin said:


> What happened to the fretboard? Did you fix it?



I screwed up routing it. I do have another board so I can always make a new one. I filled it up with epoxy and lots of sawdust. I hope its just a minor flaw once I sand the radius and have the binding and fret installed. I guess it won´t be to big of a deal. It´s not that big anymore and you won´t even notice it from a distance  if not I make a new board xD


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## Navid (Jun 19, 2013)

Where did you get that wenge again?


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## jarnozz (Jun 19, 2013)

Navid said:


> Where did you get that wenge again?



Got it from a dutch wood supplier. He just started a business and gets more and more new and more exotic woods A handful of people, Including me, get to see the goods before they go on his facebook page. He doesn´t have a website other than facebook yet. Maybe in the future. You contact him and he gets back with you within 24 hours. https://www.facebook.com/MasaveHout?fref=ts the facebook page. you can contact him there!


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## FruitCakeRonin (Jun 19, 2013)

Glad to hear it's not completely ruined. I really enjoy these "amateur" ( no disrespect  ) build threads. I would love to build a guitar and it's nice to see that you don't need years of experience to build a great piece of gear.


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## jarnozz (Jun 20, 2013)

FruitCakeRonin said:


> Glad to hear it's not completely ruined. I really enjoy these "amateur" ( no disrespect  ) build threads. I would love to build a guitar and it's nice to see that you don't need years of experience to build a great piece of gear.



I learn from my mistakes xD This is my second but I´m already planing on a third, fourth, fifth, etc.. plus I´m probably joining a luthier school starting in September, specialized in the fine crafts of making violins, lutes, mandolins and of course guitars!


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## jarnozz (Jun 21, 2013)

Routed the control cavity today! I wanted to do a bit more but since I do all the woodworking outside and it rained like 95% of the day I only did the control cavity. I literary had 20 minutes to shape the cover, 10 minutes of template making, 5 minutes to drill and 10 minutes to clean it up with the router.... And I decided to add pocket in the guitar for weight relief! + some tonal benefits I want to achieve. 












a cheese guitar!






cleaned it all up.






result






Looks way better than a simple plastic cover. A huge improvement since my last guitar, I'm gaining skills!


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## User Name (Jun 21, 2013)

looks ....ing fantastic dude


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## JosephEMG (Jun 26, 2013)

Oh man! This looks incredible! Now I want one!


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## jarnozz (Jul 8, 2013)

Got me the hipshot 8 string bridge!






And I routed the pickup cavities. The wenge looks really nice in direct sunlight. Even unfinished!






Last thing I did was installing the thrust rod and gluing the fretboard to the neck.






after that I can start getting the board to a 12" radius, drilling the holes for the bridge, strings, tuners and controlls. 

I think I will finish this puppy within 2 weeks if everything goes as planned


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## Necromagnon (Jul 8, 2013)

I don't remember: which finish to you plan? Will it have "apparent pores"? Because wenge has really deep pores, and it needs tons and tons of filler to start seeing the end of it...

PS: I forgot to mention that this beast looks freaking sexy under this sunlight...


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## jarnozz (Jul 8, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> I don't remember: which finish to you plan? Will it have "apparent pores"? Because wenge has really deep pores, and it needs tons and tons of filler to start seeing the end of it...
> 
> PS: I forgot to mention that this beast looks freaking sexy under this sunlight...



I was thinking of either Tung oil or danish. Preferably tung since I haven't worked with that and would love to give it a try. I think I'll just buy a bit and test both on some leftover pieces, see which one I like the most. Or this mysterious master gel I've red about some time ago. It was a wipe on poly like finish and gave stunning results on blurred maple without filler. I have no clue where to get that stuf here.. would LOVE to use that


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## Necromagnon (Jul 9, 2013)

jarnozz said:


> Or this mysterious master gel I've red about some time ago. It was a wipe on poly like finish and gave stunning results on blurred maple without filler. I have no clue where to get that stuf here.. would LOVE to use that


Yep, I remember this discussion. I've tried to look for it on the internet, and if it seems quite feasable to find it in North America, for us in Europe, it seemed very difficult...

But I really think that an oil finish would look very great. You could also try true oil, that is very easy and nice to apply, and gives a very very nice result, somewhere between oiled and laquer finishes.


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## CircuitalPlacidity (Jul 18, 2013)

Great ....ing build dude and thanks for the info on how you did the top. Are you finished with it yet? I need pics.


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## bob123 (Jul 18, 2013)

Hot tip. bloodwood turns brown as it oxidizes. Get a GOOD red analine dye and dye the fretboard. May seem silly, but the dye will last longer then the woods natural color.

also for oil, I HIGHLY suggest "Tru-oil" for finish. Its much easier to work with then tung oil, and provides lots of long lasting protection.


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## jarnozz (Jul 18, 2013)

bob123 said:


> Hot tip. bloodwood turns brown as it oxidizes. Get a GOOD red analine dye and dye the fretboard. May seem silly, but the dye will last longer then the woods natural color.
> 
> also for oil, I HIGHLY suggest "Tru-oil" for finish. Its much easier to work with then tung oil, and provides lots of long lasting protection.



Thanks for the tip. I´ve done some digging and some say it wont change and some say it will. I believe it will change color, but instead of a bronze look, more of a darker redish color. I a´m going to treat it with some sort of oil and keep it from drying out. I do hope the red stays in since I love the looks of it so far!


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## CircuitalPlacidity (Jul 18, 2013)

You can always dye it later if it fades to a color you don't like.


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## charlessalvacion (Jul 18, 2013)

holy Shiznit! Nice Build! Where did you learn to do this? I envy your skills bro! Congrats!


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## jarnozz (Jul 20, 2013)

Done some rounding today! 






Its nice and smooth.






Then I routed the binding slot






Made a beautiful tape with screwdriver burst xD






and ended up with this






I roughly shaped it because It was time for me to head over to work..






more shaping, rounding and sanding tomorrow!

And drilling all the holes. Found out my girlfriends grandfather owns a drill press! That makes it easy to drill a straight line and stuff


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## Necromagnon (Jul 20, 2013)

Looks really nice!


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## BlackMastodon (Jul 20, 2013)

That tape burst!


Coming out really solid, man.


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## jarnozz (Jul 27, 2013)

Did some binding on the headstock and what not. I also ordered the nut, files, oil, electronics, jack, etc etc! they will arrive within 3 days! Than I have everything to complete this puppy!











don't forget the side dots!






This is my wiring diagram.






I hope I got that right. I took the diagram of the dimarzio site. 
I want a volume and tone, 3 way toggle to switch between neck, neck brigde, bridge.
I also want a coil split option. The diagram uses a on/on/on I guess. How will that work? I did order a 3 way just to stick with the diagram!


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## crazygtr (Jul 27, 2013)

I think you got an issue with your pickup's wiring, if they are Dimarzio it should go like this:

red=hot (toggle switch)
black+white= coil split (dpdt switch)
green+bare= ground (pot casing)

Unless you do want to invert the pickup to select a specific coil


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## jarnozz (Jul 27, 2013)

crazygtr said:


> I think you got an issue with your pickup's wiring, if they are Dimarzio it should go like this:
> 
> red=hot (toggle switch)
> black+white= coil split (dpdt switch)
> green+bare= ground (pot casing)



You're right. I see the bridge pickup has the black and white going to the dpdt, red to toggle and green to ground. 

But the neck puckup has the red and green going to the toggle??
the black to ground en white to toggle xD 

I checked my 7 which is loaded with dimarzio's and you are right about the wiring. 
Guess I nailed it that time!

Is everything else ok? just to be on the safe side


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## crazygtr (Jul 27, 2013)

jarnozz said:


> You're right. I see the bridge pickup has the black and white going to the dpdt, red to toggle and green to ground.
> 
> But the neck puckup has the red and green going to the toggle??
> the black to ground en white to toggle xD
> ...



I did edit my previous post, you can reverse the pickup to select wich coil will be cut, I just wire them this way and never had any issues.


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## crazygtr (Jul 27, 2013)

By the way, your binding looks sharp


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## jarnozz (Jul 27, 2013)

Thanks! so long story short. 
if I stick to the wiring I can choose between humbucker, left coil, right coil. 
If I split the neck to the first coil and than switch to the bridge I'd be splitting the 1st coil?

And what happens If I go with your suggestion. just to be safe


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## crazygtr (Jul 27, 2013)

The thing is some don't like to switch (turn ) the pickup to get the other coil when split. You can have it both ways; turn the pickup around or change the wiring. I prefer to turn the pickup, that way I don't have phase issues. For instance, if you want to have both the same coil (bobbin) on each pickup off when splited you just go the way mentioned before (blk+wh coil split, red hot, green+bare ground) on both pickups; if you want different bobbins you can turn one pickup around or take one pickup's coil split (blk+wh) to hot instead of ground.


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## jarnozz (Jul 27, 2013)

What would be the "off" position for the dpdt switch if I don't want a humbucker to split? This is kind of new for me


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## jarnozz (Aug 9, 2013)

I started with sanding my board up to 800 grid, It now reflects light







I also made an improvised fret press, and tool too apply a radius to fretwire






Just press and done






one down, 23 to go






Shinny






Got this much done already, only 18 to be pressed in...






that's it for now


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## CD1221 (Aug 9, 2013)

great work. love the simplicity of the fret press.


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## icos211 (Aug 9, 2013)

How do you think that press will compare to the normal drill press system? Will it get the same even results? I'd really love to do something cheap like this instead of spend $40 on the drill press one.


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## jarnozz (Aug 9, 2013)

icos211 said:


> How do you think that press will compare to the normal drill press system? Will it get the same even results? I'd really love to do something cheap like this instead of spend $40 on the drill press one.



I´ve never used a normal press. I just figured out this will do the same thing in theory. I´ve put it to the test. It presses the frets in nicely. So I guess it does the job pretty well!


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## jarnozz (Aug 13, 2013)

after many hours...
















My face when I saw all the frets installed and done






 pretty happy, not flawless but for a firs fretjob I did pretty good!


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## hk_golgatha (Aug 14, 2013)

Simplicity always seems to be beauty.
Very nice.
Daaat board.


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## jarnozz (Aug 31, 2013)

Drilled some holes and test fitted everything. Not to happy about the bridge.
It seems I should have ordered one with a .175 floor instead of .125 The saddles must go absurtly high for a hipshot... 
ah well nothing to do about that, exept for making a brass plate to raise the bridge a bit. But that wouldn´t look to good...
lesson learned xD the hard way.. turns out my fretboard is up just to high. Same hight as an ibanez with a trem. 7mm roughly. guess that is just to high.

anyway for the pics:











I love this one!'





headstock turned out nice as well






lots of sanding to do next and then it's time to finish her up!


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## jarnozz (Sep 5, 2013)

I´ve spend 3 hours wet sanding the whole thing. At 8am.. Just because temperatures reached up to 32 degrees outside  I hate hot weather xD

after all was sanded and removed from scratches, dust etc it was time to oil her up! I love putting the first oil coat on. It makes the wood and the grain come alive! and it makes wenge a hell of a lot darker 

Pictures:

Towel used to protect the wooden surface






wetsanding begins






hmmmmm






Finaly the walnuts looks darker, was afraid it wouldn't be that dark.











Remember how the wenge looked before oil was applied?






This is afterwards











That was the first coat. I think I will give this one 7 more coats and than finish it of with a lemon oil threatment


Stay tuned!


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## MikeK (Sep 5, 2013)

Looks great man! I noticed you didn't pre-route a slot to connect the pickup cavities. Whats your plan to feel the wiring through?


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## jarnozz (Sep 5, 2013)

MikeK said:


> Looks great man! I noticed you didn't pre-route a slot to connect the pickup cavities. Whats your plan to feel the wiring through?



I routed a slot to feed the wiring through before I put the top on! Pictures don't really show that though


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## THB430 (Sep 5, 2013)

SEXY. Cant wait to see it all done.


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## icos211 (Sep 5, 2013)

What oil did you use on the top?


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## jarnozz (Sep 5, 2013)

icos211 said:


> What oil did you use on the top?



Good ol' danish oil!


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## iRaiseTheDead (Sep 6, 2013)

Amazing job so far, this is intense! Makes me want to build one!


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## Necromagnon (Sep 7, 2013)

Did a long time since I didn't came by here, and I'm happy to see the work is still awesome.


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## jarnozz (Sep 7, 2013)

Necromagnon said:


> Did a long time since I didn't came by here, and I'm happy to see the work is still awesome.



I feel flatered! Haha


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## jarnozz (Sep 13, 2013)

It´s alive! Here is a teaser:







Now head over the the ERG section for a NGD update!

The link:

http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/ex...ed-8-stringed-monster-ngd-first-8-string.html


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