# ESP LTD vs PRS SE: Which is the better workhorse guitar?



## pfizer

Hi guys, me again with another gear conundrum. 

I just got my JP6 recently and as great as that thing is to play, I'm kinda paranoid of bringing it out of the house. As of now, I'm using it exclusively for practice and recording. 

Right now, I'm looking for a B-guitar, something well-built, can handle many different tunings (as low as drop A), has 24 frets, fixed bridge and passive pick-ups, within a 700-1000 USD budget. I play mostly hard rock and metal, although I've recently been getting into a lot of texas blues and funk as well. 

Currently, I'm considering two options; a *PRS SE Custom 24 in Trampas Green*:






And an *ESP MH-1000NT in See-thru Blue*





As always, the number one issue for me regarding the PRS is the neck -- I've always found thinner necks more comfortable to play and I've had mixed feelings regarding the "wide-thin" profile. 

Curiously, I've had the same feelings with ESP necks, so right now it's just a matter of testing out which feels better. However, I'd still appreciate you guys' opinions and anecdotes on the matter if you've had either guitar.


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## dr_game0ver

G&L tribute fiorano?


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## andyjanson

Both come from the same factory so the quality should be about the same. Personally I'm a much bigger fan of prs than esp both as instruments and visually, and my mates se custom 24 is among the best playing guitars I've ever got my hands on, including a lot of high end stuff, so I'd go with that. If you don't like the necks on either though, why not look at Ibanez or schecter's sls line?


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## Shask

Seems like a Sterling JP100 would be a great option for this situation.....


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## petersenb9

I would go for the H1000


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## ibanez4lifesz

If you're looking to have the same feel as your 'at home' guitar when you play out, this is the way to go. I've weeded through these guitars are few times, and when you find a good one with a REALLY good setup, it starts feeling VERY similar to the USA JP6. 

If you're looking for a different, yet solid guitar, the PRS SE line is hard to fault :yes way:



Shask said:


> Seems like a Sterling JP100 would be a great option for this situation.....


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## Mathemagician

Grab a schecter banshee hard tail at that price point. Hell, a little more gets a Km-6, which has SS frets I believe. And I'm an ESP fanboy.


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## Grindspine

pfizer said:


> Hi guys, me again with another gear conundrum.
> 
> I just got my JP6 recently and as great as that thing is to play, I'm kinda paranoid of bringing it out of the house. As of now, I'm using it exclusively for practice and recording.
> 
> Right now, I'm looking for a B-guitar, something well-built, can handle many different tunings (as low as drop A), has 24 frets, fixed bridge and passive pick-ups, within a 700-1000 USD budget. I play mostly hard rock and metal, although I've recently been getting into a lot of texas blues and funk as well.
> 
> Currently, I'm considering two options; a *PRS SE Custom 24 in Trampas Green*:




*That is a very playable guitar. I played a few at Sweetwater. The pickup options are solid. The stock setup won't handle drop A unless you change string gauge and raise the action. Overall, those guitars were incredibly and surprisingly fun to play!*


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## pfizer

Mathemagician said:


> Grab a schecter banshee hard tail at that price point. Hell, a little more gets a Km-6, which has SS frets I believe. And I'm an ESP fanboy.



I HAVE been considering a KM6 but aesthetically, it's a little "meh" for me. The neck profile is another thing I'm a little iffy on, since most Schecters I've tried have quite thick necks  I've read that the KM6 has quite a similar neck profile to a Wizard neck however so any feedback on that would be nice.

As for the Sterling JP100, I've considered it as well. I prefer to have variety in my arsenal though, which is why I'm looking at brands other than EBMM and Ibanez. That said, I wouldn't be against getting one in the future eventually.

On a related note, I've always wondered what the difference is between the wide-thin PRS neck profile on the SEs and the pattern-thin profile on the USA models. Is there really such a huge difference? How would you compare those two shapes with other conventional neck shapes from Ibanez/Fender/Gibson?


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## parvis

I would choose the PRS over the LTD. The new SE models have had fantastic reviews.


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## Mathemagician

The KM-6, Banshee, Loomis (another cool/different one) all have the new SLS neck. Which is like "superlightsexy"* or something. But is apparently quite thin. 











*I maybe made this .... up. Do not try to verify with your Schecter rep. Lol.


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## Mathemagician

The KM-6, Banshee, Loomis (another cool/different one) all have the new SLS neck. Which is like "superlightsexy"* or something. But is apparently quite thin. 











*I maybe made this .... up. Do not try to verify with your Schecter rep. Lol.


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## HeHasTheJazzHands

pfizer said:


> The neck profile is another thing I'm a little iffy on, since most Schecters I've tried have quite thick necks  I've read that the KM6 has quite a similar neck profile to a Wizard neck however so any feedback on that would be nice.



The KM, Banshee, SLS, the updated JL series, and Hellraiser Hybrid have very thin necks. They're not thick like "traditional" schecters.


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## Shask

The Schecter "Ultra Thin C" neck, as they call it (what people refer to as the SLS neck) is pretty thin. However, it is still very round. It does not have that flat, 2x4 feel that an Ibanez has. It is also narrower than an Ibanez.

The ESP LTD M-1000 would have a feel closer to an Ibanez than a MH-1000.


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## pfizer

Nice to know about that Schecter neck; I'll try to hunt one down and give it a try. 

The M-1000 has a Floyd which kinda makes it a deal-breaker for me. Never really liked FRs and the string-changing/tuning hassle.

That PRS SE in that color is getting increasingly harder to find though....


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## Iamatlas

This may or may not be of assistance, as I only have 7 string versions of these guitars - but:

The biggest difference between Schecters SLS and LTD's Ultra thin U is the shoulders on the neck of the Schecter seem to be more rounded, and the strings on the schecters are slightly further apart.

I hated Schecter necks prior to getting my KM7, but the SLS profile is just perfect for me.

The LTD however is super comfy, super thin and super fast. I just prefer the Schecter - It feels more natural.

Like I said though - 7 string versions. Is probably completely different on the 6's.


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## coffeeflush

Prs has a 25" scale length and LTD has 25.5"
For lower tunings like A 25.5 is better.


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## stevexc

I've got an LTD H-1001 which has been my workhorse guitar for the past 7-8 years. I've played some of the MH-1000s before and have to say they feel very close in quality and would purchase one with no hesitation. Fantastic necks, thin but still round, not at all like an Ibanez IMO.


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## pfizer

Hi guys, a little update!

I was able to test the PRS SE alongside the ESP, and the PRS is a lot more comfortable to play because of the shorter scale and the PRS trem bridge doesn't cut into my palm like the TOM bridge.

That said, I'm also considering buying a used *Ibanez RG652FX Prestige* and stringing it up with 0.12 gauge strings. I'm just a little worried the thin Wizard can't handle it. Do you guys think the Schecter KM6 is comparable to the Ibanez Prestige?


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## jbealsmusic

I had 2 LTDs and found both of them suffered the same problems. The frets wore down lightening fast and the necks bowed and twisted after about 4 years. My PRS-SE looks like the day I bought it.



> That said, I'm also considering buying a used *Ibanez RG652FX Prestige* and stringing it up with 0.12 gauge strings. I'm just a little worried the thin Wizard can't handle it.


Truss rods are built into necks to help counteract the tension of the strings. If you use higher gauge strings, just tighten the truss rod to compensate. If it starts to warp, the neck was poorly made in the first place, but unfortunately you can't really tell whether or not a neck is good just by looking at it. If you can see the grain, make sure it is quartersawn wood and that there are no knots or weird grain patterns.


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## bzhan1

That PRS looks so much better, you won't even notice the 0.5 scale difference.


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## QuantumCybin

I have a 25th anniversary PRS SE Custom 24 and a PRS SE 7, and I love them both. Serious bang for the buck. I'm tuned to drop A flat on the 7, and the 25 inch scale really doesn't bother me; I'm using an 11-52 set for the regular six strings and then a .68 for the low B. Just my


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## pfizer

Thanks for the continued input here guys  Right now, the Trampas Green model is getting rarer and rarer; I just bought a Taylor acoustic a while ago so my funds are a little scarce as of late.

I do have a question regarding the PRS tremolo though and that is with the issue of blocking it. Since I'm planning on using it with downtuning in mind, would blocking the trem help in keeping it in tune? 

Another model I'm looking into is the *Mark Tremonti SE Custom*; I was told that the tremolo on that model has extra routing which allows for an up-pull? I've always thought that other trem-equipped SE models had extra routing for whammy abuse as well...


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## Fryderyczek

I'd get the PRS no question.


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