# NGD: Harley Benton Fusion-HH FR MN Aqua - Pro Series



## Lukhas (Jul 20, 2018)

Id est: 90+% of the Indonesian Ibanez are now worthless. 

Specifications right there:
https://www.thomann.de/gb/harley_benton_fusion_hh_fr_mn_aqua.htm
As an addition, the fretboard is satin finished on the back and finished with something that looks like polyester on the fretboard. The supposedly "three-way toggle switch" is a blade switch.

Pros:
- Overall great construction and nice look.
- Barely no finishing issues bar some slight bleed inside the horns and very, very slight micro-scratching at the back that can be rid off with appropriate cleaning cloths and products. At least it proves someone picked it up before sending it...
- Excellent fret job. Not PLEK level of course but very nice, no rough edges, no dead spots, no excessive buzzing, well crowned with well trimmed fret ends.
- Stainless steel frets that won't melt on sight if you happen look at them wrongly. *cough* Fender *cough*
- Electronics and hardware feel trustworthy. The pots are a bit stiff but smooth and consistent, the Floyd reliable, the switches are not flimsy.
- Recessed spoke-wheel truss rod adjustment. Nuff' said.
- Decent pickups for rock: decently warm, decent dynamics, nice brightness.
- The pickup cavity looks clean to me.

Cons:
- Biggest con is that the 6th tuner is not straight. Is it noticeable when you use it? Yes. Will I let that fly? Yes, considering both the price point and the fact that it has a Floyd and that I won't be using the tuners all that much, but it is a bummer and I don't think it should be happening regardless of the price. 
- The neck and the neck pocket aren't flush, and there's a sharp edge on the treble side of the neck pocket that could've been sanded.
- Plays better with a shim; at least it had no shim to begin with when I added one.
- One of the Floyd Rose adjustment screw doesn't seem to have been mounted perfectly straight. Is it noticeable when you use it? Not at all.
- While the pickup cavity cover is recessed, the Floyd Rose cover isn't. I wish both were; it makes accessing the pickup cavity a bit harder than it should be.

I honestly think I haven't played a guitar that was better at that price, or anything significantly better at twice the price. Beyond that price point, guitars would be at least equivalent with none of the nitpicks I had and higher end pickups; which tells you how impressive Harley Benton/Thomann's offering is. It may not have high-end pickups compared to guitars twice the price, but it does have stainless steel frets and that's worth a lot more to me.

As the pickups are not powerful or tight enough in the low end for metal, I'll most likely will be swapping them out. I have a pair of DiMarzio Tone Zone and Liquifire laying around. If I can re-wire the switch from coil-split to parallel-series, I'd enjoy it more: I really don't like the sound of splitted humbuckers.

On another forum, someone bought the HSH version with a Wilkinson trem. The thread is right there:
http://thefretboard.co.uk/discussion/135928/almost-ngd-harley-benton-fusion-pro-series-hsh

If you have any questions feel free to ask. Pardon the picture quality, my phone isn't too great.


----------



## Andromalia (Jul 20, 2018)

The tuner is a bummer, other than that sounds like a good mod platform.


----------



## AkiraSpectrum (Jul 20, 2018)

Very cool. Thanks for the review.


----------



## possumkiller (Jul 20, 2018)

Now _that's_ a beat we can all dance to.


----------



## Lukhas (Jul 20, 2018)

Here's a pick of the trem cavity. The screw doesn't seem that bad on the picture, and it isn't that bad. Or maybe I need an appointment with an ophthalmologist real soon.


----------



## Zhysick (Jul 21, 2018)

The tuner can be fixed pretty easily but probably the hole will be visible (had to be filled with something because the other hole for the proper position will be very close so toothpick if you go cheap) but it would bother me neither but you are right: that shouldn't happen independently of the price point.

The top (veneer) looks quite nice but not as good as it was supposed to be (Cory Mura said they were stunning... well) but the finish is pretty nice: I really love the color. The bookmatching could be better for what I can see (small space between the two parts as I can see a straight line from the floyd to the end of the body) but hey! for the price it is still amazing to have a real maple top on a mahogany body and a veneer that doesn't look bad. 

The problem for me, about these guitars, is that I don't like SS frets... so... well... even if I like them a lot...

What can you say about the neck profile? Fender stile or not so rounded on the fingerboard edges? In the pick of the frets the fingerboard edges doesn't seem to be rounded off like a Charvel or not even like a Fender: I'm asking just because nowadays I just can't feel comfortable playing without the rounded edges... it's something essential for me.

Thanks and enjoy it!!

What pickups are you planning to instal?


----------



## Lukhas (Jul 21, 2018)

Zhysick said:


> The tuner can be fixed pretty easily but probably the hole will be visible (had to be filled with something because the other hole for the proper position will be very close so toothpick if you go cheap) but it would bother me neither but you are right: that shouldn't happen independently of the price point.


I ain't going to touch it honestly: all of the tuners aren't perfectly straight, but "only" the 6th one is noticeably so. Which means that the small screw holes that hold the tuners in place at the back weren't drilled by a CNC like it's the case on most other instruments.


Zhysick said:


> The top (veneer) looks quite nice but not as good as it was supposed to be (Cory Mura said they were stunning... well) but the finish is pretty nice: I really love the color. The bookmatching could be better for what I can see (small space between the two parts as I can see a straight line from the floyd to the end of the body) but hey! for the price it is still amazing to have a real maple top on a mahogany body and a veneer that doesn't look bad.


Well it looks great.. for the price.  It's not a 15A² (that's right, 15 A squared) top, but considering the grade of it, the finishing choice is appropriate and works very well at making the guitar look more expensive than it is. If you had a prettier veneer, you wouldn't use a jean-like finish at all. That said, I don't think it's a maple top, just a veneer: the natural wood binding looks like mahogany by the colour.


Zhysick said:


> The problem for me, about these guitars, is that I don't like SS frets... so... well... even if I like them a lot...


I love SS frets. I'd take the very rumoured extra brightness if that means perfectly slick frets that don't scrub when you bend or do a vibrato and which durability will last for very long unless you're gigging as often as Albert Lee. That was what I was the most worried about: the fretjob. SS frets means that the instrument needs a perfect fretjob from the factory because otherwise your local luthier will hate you when you bring the instrument in for a levelling job; which would ruin the price point those guitars are at.

If some extra brightness and slick feel mean that I will not need to get the fret levelled, not need to change them in a decade, not need to scrub them every two string changes, I'll take that any day of the week.


Zhysick said:


> What can you say about the neck profile? Fender stile or not so rounded on the fingerboard edges? In the pick of the frets the fingerboard edges doesn't seem to be rounded off like a Charvel or not even like a Fender: I'm asking just because nowadays I just can't feel comfortable playing without the rounded edges... it's something essential for me.


The edges feel rounded off to me. It's not noticeable in the pictures because as I wrote, the finish is different on the fretboad and the back of the neck. The fretboard as a poly finish and the back of the neck has a satin finish. The finish doesn't leak over the edge at any point. I think it's a bit bigger than a Fender neck but not as big as a Gibson 60's neck (which, for Gibson't standards are pretty thin) or than a Ibanez Andy Timmons neck. It's definitively thicker than a Schecter or Ibanez Wizard neck. Reminds me I haven't played on a Strat in a long while: I honestly can't accurately remember how the necks are. 


Zhysick said:


> What pickups are you planning to instal?





Lukhas said:


> I have a pair of DiMarzio Tone Zone and Liquifire laying around. If I can re-wire the switch from coil-split to parallel-series, I'd enjoy it more: I really don't like the sound of splitted humbuckers.


Now I just need a tutorial on how to re-wire that coil-splitting switch to a parallel/series switch. Sent an e-mail to DiMarzio, we'll see what they have to say about it.


----------



## Nlelith (Jul 21, 2018)

This thing nails down the specs I like to see in a guitar way too good. I don't need one, but I want it so bad. HNGD.


----------



## Zhysick (Jul 21, 2018)

Lukhas said:


> Well it looks great.. for the price.  It's not a 15A² (that's right, 15 A squared) top, but considering the grade of it, the finishing choice is appropriate and works very well at making the guitar look more expensive than it is. If you had a prettier veneer, you wouldn't use a jean-like finish at all. That said, I don't think it's a maple top, just a veneer: the natural wood binding looks like mahogany by the colour.



Oh yes, you are right, is one of those "scratch bindings"... just the paint off the wood so it looks like a top but it isn't.

What you say about the neck is quite interesting... The only guitar I am loving now (and can afford) is my EVH Wolfgang Standard because of the neck profile so if this one is not too thin and is rounded I might like it... I just wish they will release a cheaper one without the SS frets as I don't mind polishing my frets every string change so they are smooth and bright but HATE that "brightness" of the SS frets... I just had to sell an AMAZING Carvin I had because I couldn't stand with the frets...


----------



## Lukhas (Jul 21, 2018)

Andromalia said:


> The tuner is a bummer, other than that sounds like a good mod platform.


The cool thing is that it's pretty much playable as is without modifications if you play the kind of stuff that these pickups can handle. I think that aside from the pickups and wiring, I'll add a Tremol-No for flexibility.


----------



## Lukhas (Jul 22, 2018)

> Thanks for the clarification. Unfortunately, it is not possible to switch 2 pickups from series to parallel mode with a single DPDT switch. This requires 1 switch per pickup. One pickup or the other can be switched between series and parallel, but not both.
> 
> 
> DiMarzio Inc.


Well that sucks. Guess I have to deal with it.


----------



## eloann (Jul 24, 2018)

Lukhas said:


> Well that sucks. Guess I have to deal with it.



Or get a 4PDT switch - wouldn't be an option with a push-pull but with a mini-toggle it is


----------



## Lukhas (Jul 24, 2018)

eloann said:


> Or get a 4PDT switch - wouldn't be an option with a push-pull but with a mini-toggle it is


It's not a push-pull but a mini-toggle. But please elaborate, it may prove useful: I think I melted the plastic casing of my switch with one of the worst soldering irons I've ever bought. Despite being brand new, it barely had any heat, and now when I try to plug it in, the whole electricity shuts down in my house. Yup, 30W worth of current is making my whole house kick the bucket.Tried in my veranda as well that has a separate electrical installation and the electricity died just the same.


----------



## Lukhas (Jul 24, 2018)

> I am sorry, but I do not think this can be accomplished with a single 3-way minswitch.
> 
> DiMarzio Inc.


Well that sucks, episode 2.


----------



## Zhysick (Jul 25, 2018)

I think @eloann is talking about one like this:







So is the "normal" mini-switch you will find for a series-parallel wiring but with double the poles so this way you can wire both humbuckers to the same switch: you will switch from series to parallel both humbuckers at the same time, of course, if you want every pickup to have individual switching you will need two of the normal ones but this works. As you can see, you only need 6 for one humbucker to do the switching:






Yep! If you cannot get one from DiMarzio or any other brand just go to an electronics shop (that's what I do normally: cheaper) and buy one there... there should be with different shapes and options...


----------



## Lemonbaby (Jul 25, 2018)

Lukhas said:


> It's not a push-pull but a mini-toggle. But please elaborate, it may prove useful: I think I melted the plastic casing of my switch with one of the worst soldering irons I've ever bought. Despite being brand new, it barely had any heat, and now when I try to plug it in, the whole electricity shuts down in my house. Yup, 30W worth of current is making my whole house kick the bucket.Tried in my veranda as well that has a separate electrical installation and the electricity died just the same.


Sounds like you'll need a new iron - 30W definitely can't kill the electricity. And how can it shut down the whole house? Don't you have separate circuits/fuses per room?


----------



## Lukhas (Jul 25, 2018)

Lemonbaby said:


> Sounds like you'll need a new iron - 30W definitely can't kill the electricity. And how can it shut down the whole house? Don't you have separate circuits/fuses per room?


Went back to the shop and they confirmed that the iron activates the circuit breaker when plugged in. Went home with a 40W iron from another brand instead. Now I need to replace the switch; the whole switch didn't die, but the bridge outer coil position that I was trying to solder did melt. Ironically with the new iron it went very well and didn't damage the switch any further.

@eloann & @Zhysick :
Asked the question to DiMarzio, and this is the reply I got. Too bad I don't care about splitted coils, but better have too much than too little.


----------



## Zhysick (Jul 26, 2018)

That's a 3 position mini-switch then, very cool indeed. That's a very versatile layout.


----------



## Boojakki (Jul 26, 2018)

ignore/remove please - wrong thread... Sorry!


----------



## Lukhas (Aug 17, 2018)

Lukhas said:


> Went back to the shop and they confirmed that the iron activates the circuit breaker when plugged in. Went home with a 40W iron from another brand instead. Now I need to replace the switch; the whole switch didn't die, but the bridge outer coil position that I was trying to solder did melt. Ironically with the new iron it went very well and didn't damage the switch any further.
> 
> @eloann & @Zhysick :
> Asked the question to DiMarzio, and this is the reply I got. Too bad I don't care about splitted coils, but better have too much than too little.


@eloann & @Zhysick:
I sent my guitar to Thomann to have this cabled and received it today. It costs 15€ to send the guitar via my country's postal services, and aside from the price of the DiMarzio EP 1111 switch (a whooping 34€), Thomann charged me 35€ to install the switch and rewire the guitar. The switch is pretty big, about as big as a regular toggle switch and I see some sawdust on the pickups, so I assume the hole had to be widened a bit. So apparently it's cheaper to ask for a wiring job (35€) than ask for a setup (55€) at Thomann! 

However, they wired the pickup selector upside-down: the position closer to the neck engages... the bridge pickup, and vice-versa. Sent them a mail about it, we'll see what happens.


----------



## Jarmake (Aug 17, 2018)

You can't just unscrew the switch, flip it around and screw it back? Seems like a easiest solution to me...

But what do I know about anything...


----------



## Lukhas (Aug 18, 2018)

Jarmake said:


> You can't just unscrew the switch, flip it around and screw it back? Seems like a easiest solution to me...
> 
> But what do I know about anything...


Nope, I cannot.  It's a blade switch: it's not symmetrical. The cables are all on one side of the switch, therefore if you try to simply flip it around, you'll rip the cables off. You have to resolder it properly. But the actual thing is that if you send your instrument to a professional, it's to have a great job. It doesn't bother me that mistakes are made as humans are fallible, even if I don't like being on the receiving end of it.  However, they should fix it, and that's all I'm asking for.


----------



## Jarmake (Aug 19, 2018)

Lukhas said:


> Nope, I cannot.  It's a blade switch: it's not symmetrical. The cables are all on one side of the switch, therefore if you try to simply flip it around, you'll rip the cables off. You have to resolder it properly. But the actual thing is that if you send your instrument to a professional, it's to have a great job. It doesn't bother me that mistakes are made as humans are fallible, even if I don't like being on the receiving end of it.  However, they should fix it, and that's all I'm asking for.



Oh, okay. That's reasonable enough. I didn't mean to come off as hostile or sarcastic, so if I looked like it, sorry.

They must do very tight wirings at thomann, if you cant flip the switch without wires ripping off. I always do my wirings with a bit longer wires, so I can move the switch and flip it freely if need be.


----------



## Lukhas (Aug 19, 2018)

Jarmake said:


> Oh, okay. That's reasonable enough. I didn't mean to come off as hostile or sarcastic, so if I looked like it, sorry.
> 
> They must do very tight wirings at thomann, if you cant flip the switch without wires ripping off. I always do my wirings with a bit longer wires, so I can move the switch and flip it freely if need be.


It's mostly because it's a blade switch, which has all the phases on one side, and there's not much space in the control cavity to turn around a blade switch. You'd need quite a bit of extra cable length to turn a blade switch around... especially since a lot of the cables are wired to the gigantic 12 phase DiMarzio EP 1111 switch: your options become fairly limited. Ain't like a Les Paul cavity where each pickup has its very own switch, where you have a lot of freedom to do whatever you want... and even include a circuit board instead of wires.


----------



## Zhysick (Aug 19, 2018)

That's insteresting... maybe they thought you are Van Halen LOL

At least the coil-splitting options and all that stuff worked properly?


----------



## Lukhas (Aug 20, 2018)

Zhysick said:


> That's insteresting... maybe they thought you are Van Halen LOL
> 
> At least the coil-splitting options and all that stuff worked properly?


Almost. The theoretical aspect of things works, the switch does what it's supposed to. On the technical aspect of things, the series position on the bridge humbucker has some nasty whistling when using gain but doesn't have any on parallel position, nor the neck pickup has any noise issue at all. Slightly moving the blade switch left and right can change the intensity of the noise. Obviously the split position has noise on both humbuckers, but that's completely expected and normal.


----------



## Lukhas (Sep 6, 2018)

Update, and kind of a wacky one. After receiving the guitar, Thomann's tech declared that outside of the upside-down pickup selector, they didn't find a flaw... even though I kinda sent a video of my issues as they asked me to. However they offered to replace the guitar, no cost involved. I obviously inquired about the pickups, since they're kinda mine. Then, they kinda sent it back without really confirming anything about the wiring. Cue another mail sent, and turns out the Customer Service person was supposed to be phoned before the Tech Service sent the guitar. They did swap out the electronics, and apparently the tremolo of the original guitar had some flaw (which I honestly didn't notice).

I think something got lost in the French-German translations...


----------



## Zhysick (Sep 6, 2018)

With diso luck you will get a better guitar and correctly wired this time lol


----------



## Lukhas (Sep 6, 2018)

Zhysick said:


> With diso luck you will get a better guitar and correctly wired this time lol


It's not so much the guitar that was bad, but the wiring that went from bad (my screwup) to worse (a professional screwing it up).  The fact that we're dealing with a foreign company also is an issue as you have to translate back and forth and make sure nothing is lost in translation. It's been pretty slow more than it's been "bad", especially as whoever would reply to me wasn't necessarily the same person from day to day; which is expected when treating with such a big company. I wonder if I would've had less communication "issues" (a bit harsh to say that) if I had used English to communicate instead of my native French...


----------



## Zhysick (Sep 7, 2018)

Lukhas said:


> It's not so much the guitar that was bad, but the wiring that went from bad (my screwup) to worse (a professional screwing it up).  The fact that we're dealing with a foreign company also is an issue as you have to translate back and forth and make sure nothing is lost in translation. It's been pretty slow more than it's been "bad", especially as whoever would reply to me wasn't necessarily the same person from day to day; which is expected when treating with such a big company. I wonder if I would've had less communication "issues" (a bit harsh to say that) if I had used English to communicate instead of my native French...



Even if Thomann have a few spaniards and a spanish customer service I always contact them in English: that way I get a faster response (they don't have to redirect the issue to the spanish team which, probably, is formed only by one or two people).

Also there are tons of words about guitars that I don't know how to translate into spanish LOL


----------



## Lukhas (Sep 16, 2018)

*Update:
*
I've had the new guitar for about a week now. It globally boasts the same standards of quality as the previous one, with a few differences. The neck pocket is much tighter, the action can be brought a little bit lower under the low E (depending of your tolerance to buzz). There's a bit of roughness at the edge of the 3rd fret on the treble side. The tuners are straighter, but that wasn't hard to achieve.  Aside from that, it's pretty much the same guitar. A tiny bit better, but not as if they were completely different.

And this time, the pickup selector is wired correctly.


----------

