# Suhr non-recessed Gotoh 510: dive-only setup?



## Rachmaninoff (Jul 6, 2016)

Hey,

Guitar in question is a Suhr Modern with a Gotoh 510 tremolo (non-Floyd), and non-recessed. Is it possible to make it dive-only, ie. flat to the body?

Any tips on how to properly do this?

Thanks.


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## Berserker (Jul 7, 2016)

If it's not recessed just tighten the springs until it's flat on the body.


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## Malkav (Jul 7, 2016)

Berserker said:


> If it's not recessed just tighten the springs until it's flat on the body.



This.

Or a Trem Stopper, or a Tremol-no, then you'll be sorted


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## xwmucradiox (Jul 7, 2016)

Suhr's setup is to have the bridge parallel to the surface of the body with a 1/16" gap so letting it sink back onto the body isn't a great idea. A tremol-no or other block located in the trem cavity would be better.


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## Rachmaninoff (Jul 7, 2016)

Berserker said:


> If it's not recessed just tighten the springs until it's flat on the body.





Malkav said:


> Or a Trem Stopper, or a Tremol-no, then you'll be sorted





xwmucradiox said:


> A tremol-no or other block located in the trem cavity would be better.



Thanks for the input, guys. I'd like to have the bridge flat with full contact with the body, just like old strats. I'll try just tighten the springs.

Thanks again!


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## xwmucradiox (Jul 7, 2016)

It wont be flat though since its a two post design and the front edge is raised up off the body by the studs by design. It'll be at an angle and only the back will be contacting the body. You might be able to get it to sit flat but you'll have to lower the studs in the front and then you may have issues with the strings clearing the fretboard.


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## MoonJelly (Jul 8, 2016)

xwmucradiox said:


> It wont be flat though since its a two post design and the front edge is raised up off the body by the studs by design. It'll be at an angle and only the back will be contacting the body. You might be able to get it to sit flat but you'll have to lower the studs in the front and then you may have issues with the strings clearing the fretboard.



wise words from a wise man. Unless your bridge saddles can be raised to make up the difference, and I have a feeling it'll feel wonky either way.


Buy an Anderson


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## gaitango (Jul 8, 2016)

it sink back onto the body isn't a great idea. A tremol-no or other block located in the trem cavity would be better.


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## cardinal (Jul 8, 2016)

If it's non-ressessed, it won't sink into the body. 

Just lower the studs and tighten the springs until it's flush against the body. Then raise up the saddles to get the action where it needs to be. 

If you don't have the range to adjust the saddles up (or you don't like having a very steep break angle of the strings over those high saddles), you can shim the neck. Take off the neck and place something under the front of the neck pocket (end away from the bridge). That will pitch the neck downward and let you lower the saddles. For shims, I honestly use strips of masking tape applied to the neck heel, but you can use whatever.


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## Prophetable (Jul 8, 2016)

Cutting out a small block of wood or using a stack of business cards would be a lot simpler than completely altering the action of your guitar as mentioned above, especially since you'd just be hoping that your saddles have enough adjustment room to get as high as you need them to.


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## possumkiller (Jul 9, 2016)

Or just get a strat bridge and screw it down flat.


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## MatthewK (Jul 10, 2016)

hah, I popped into this forum to ask the exact same question. I think I'm just going to end up stuffing something between the tremolo block and the cavity. I was trying to find pics of the Andy Wood models, since they come blocked from the factory. I think they are decked with the saddles jacked up.


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## mniel8195 (Jul 10, 2016)

There are no exact rules with that type of bridge. I have one set to float with a recessed hole on my suhr modern. The bridge tilts a bit forward so i can pull up more. My saddle also feel more natural because they follow the angle of the neck so they are not sitting really high off the bridge. I don't believe that suhr just rests the bridge on the body i believe they use a small block of wood so you don't damage the finish.


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## marcwormjim (Jul 10, 2016)

A bit of trivia is that Vigier sets up the Shawn Lane model to have the two-point trem angled back against the body for dive-only operation; due to that being Shawn's preference at the time of his death. As far as I know, Suhr doesn't route/recess any of their non-FR trems in the way EBMM does; and so this should just be a matter of screwing in the spring claw and adjusting the saddle-height to compensate. 

Anyone, please let me know if the 1/16" height out of the body specified at the factory compromises this setup.


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## bsshiver (Jul 10, 2016)

marcwormjim said:


> As far as I know, Suhr doesn't route/recess any of their non-FR trems in the way EBMM does; and so this should just be a matter of screwing in the spring claw and adjusting the saddle-height to compensate.



While in this case I believe you are correct, Suhr does in fact offer recessed non-Floyd trems:


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## MatthewK (Jul 10, 2016)

I emailed Suhr to see what they recommend. But having just taken a look at my guitar, I think simply tightening the springs would work fine.


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## Electric Wizard (Jul 10, 2016)

I tightened the springs on my modern. It works completely fine, there's plenty of room for the saddles and the trem studs to adjust. Way easier than installing anything or cutting a wood block. Nothing at all wrong with it resting on the body and you can undo it whenever you want.


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## Rachmaninoff (Jul 17, 2016)

Thanks everyone for the responses. As a follow up, I put my hands on the Suhr yesterday. I tightened the trem posts until the limit, then I tightened the springs. Since I like low action, I didn't need to raise the saddles much, but if needed, they could be raised even further.

This is what it looks like now:











Worked like a charm.


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