# "Formby's Tung Oil Finish" question



## rippedflesh89 (May 28, 2011)

so recently ive gotten into refinishing my necks with this stuff using the low gloss kind and i like it quite a bit... my necks have never felt better...

but ive been hearing a lot of things recently about how tung oil (im not sure if theyre talking about 100% pure tung oil, but formbys has little to no tung oil in it, hence "finish") wears off after time. Im not sure if this tung oil finish has more protection that pure tung oil.

If I play for about 2 hours a day on average, how long should I expect a solid 6 coats to last me?


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## demonx (May 28, 2011)

Not sure about Tung Oil as I've never used it, but in the past when I used to oil necks with a Linseed mix, they were awesome when fresh, but if you wanted them to stay feeling that way, then every 3-6 months (well played guitar) or every 12+ months for a hardly played guitar they need to be scuffed again with some 320 or finer sandpaper and some oil wiped over again.


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## Wizardstyx (May 28, 2011)

It will still protect the wood, it just may feel a little gummy, or lack lustre.

I smooth it with 0000 steel wool and wipe on another coat anytime I feel it needs it.

Don't use the high gloss Formby's, it feels sticky.

But I really recommend Dr. Duck's axe wax instead. It's not marketed as a wood preserver, but it works very well. It will yellow maple if you use it as a first coat.


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## Dead Undead (May 28, 2011)

^What he said. I use the same finish and heard the same thing (I only used 4 coats though) and using 0000 steel wool on it makes the biggest difference. You don't really need re-finish them often AFAIK, but you may want to do so every once in a while for good measure.


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## SirMyghin (May 28, 2011)

6 coats is overkill, you will get surface residue at that, 3-4 is good. Tung oil is there to seal the pores/grain more than anything. It was used in boats way back and such. The wool is a good idea. You only need to refinish tung oil if you sand down through it, otherwise you are good to go indefinitely. Clean it as you would your fretboard now and then for the surface gunk, still have a nice wood feel and rock out. It is not something that 'wears off'


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## rippedflesh89 (May 28, 2011)

thanks for the info, you people are great!! 

so can i clean it using lemon oil? just plain old pure lemon oil by Old English? will this also help protect it too? or is it just a good cleaning/conditioning tool?


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## SirMyghin (May 28, 2011)

rippedflesh89 said:


> thanks for the info, you people are great!!
> 
> so can i clean it using lemon oil? just plain old pure lemon oil by Old English? will this also help protect it too? or is it just a good cleaning/conditioning tool?



 Pure lemon oil eh? Old english is lemon scented (maybe flavoured too, never wanked to try with the octagon containing mister smiles and all) mineral oil, but yes, it will get the job done.


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## steve1 (May 28, 2011)

SirMyghin said:


> Pure lemon oil eh? Old english is lemon scented (maybe flavoured too, never *wanked* to try with the octagon containing mister smiles and all) mineral oil, but yes, it will get the job done.


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## anthonyferguson (May 28, 2011)

SirMyghin said:


> Pure lemon oil eh? Old english is lemon scented (maybe flavoured too, never _*wanked*_ to try with the octagon containing mister smiles and all) mineral oil, but yes, it will get the job done.



Hahahahahahahaha

Good lord, typo of the century.


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## SirMyghin (May 28, 2011)

Holy crap, how did that happen.  I knew I was groggy but damn.


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## rippedflesh89 (May 29, 2011)

so whats a good indicator as to how many coats i should put on.... i check the neck very thoroughly after i buff out the previous coat... what should i look for?


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## Ghost40 (May 29, 2011)

I finish my necks with Formbys. 4 coats and hitting with 0000 steel wool in between. I do this once a year.


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## nothingleft09 (May 30, 2011)

I was wondering about this stuff. I found 2 bottles in the building my grandpa used to store junk and stuff in. I don't know how old it is though. Is there a shelf life for Formby's? lmao I'm guessing shake the hell out of it and it's good to go but I'm waiting for an opinion.


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## Wizardstyx (May 30, 2011)

It's only $7 for a tin.
Don't use the old stuff, it's not worth it. 

Don't use old English. 
Mineral spirits on a rag works wonders. 

With number of coats, you can't just take someone's work for it. It depends how thick you put it on, and if you rub it with a dry rag. 
You can daub it on, and three coats is too much. 
Thin coats and good rubbing and you will never get "too much". 

Btw rub both directions with the steel wool, across the neck and along it. Just be sure the last few passes are along the neck. You are shaving off little wood hairs and to be thorough you need to get most of them, then align the rest with the direction of the grain. 

What ever you do, do with confidence.


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## rippedflesh89 (May 30, 2011)

Wizardstyx said:


> Btw rub both directions with the steel wool, across the neck and along it. Just be sure the last few passes are along the neck.


 
im assuming i should do this with a light touch so i dont fuck up the look of the finish??

and just for clarification, you do mean do a few strokes against the grain w/0000 wool? this will help make it smoother??


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## Wizardstyx (May 30, 2011)

Yes it will be smoother. 
As for the touch... Think " buffing" not "sanding". 

3M pads work ok too, but they clog up quickly. 
Gray is same as 0000 (fine).

Try it on scrap wood if you are unsure. 

Good luck!


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## SirMyghin (May 30, 2011)

rippedflesh89 said:


> im assuming i should do this with a light touch so i dont fuck up the look of the finish??
> 
> and just for clarification, you do mean do a few strokes against the grain w/0000 wool? this will help make it smoother??



Raising the grain (and a very light sanding/steel wool) before even applying finish also helps to keep everything very smooth. Definitely something you want to do.


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