# Guyker Headless Bridge - Any good?



## lewis (Apr 28, 2018)

so Im thinking about these for my multiscale headless project.

Anyone tried them or had any experiences etc? They seem to be the tuners cropping up on the Agiles and the Legators. Probably others too







$192 for 6 tuners/locking headpiece + Free postage


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## lewis (Aug 3, 2018)

Update:
They came back in stock so i pulled the trigger for my GOC/NEKO headless project.


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## LiveOVErdrive (Aug 4, 2018)

It looks like the intonation is adjustable but I can't tell how. Is there a grub screw on the other side of the saddle in the picture? 

Curious to see how these work. I'm hankering for a headless build.


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## Lemonbaby (Aug 4, 2018)

The intonation with the small moving element is exactly the same concept as the ABM single and headless bridges. Probably one of the worst inventions in guitar hardware so far...


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## lewis (Aug 4, 2018)

Lemonbaby said:


> The intonation with the small moving element is exactly the same concept as the ABM single and headless bridges. Probably one of the worst inventions in guitar hardware so far...



Im completely unfamiliar with both these and the ABM versions.
They havent even been dispatched yet but i will update these if and when they arrive.

Could you possibly explain in abit more detail how these and the ABM ones intonation is adjustable?.


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## Pikka Bird (Aug 4, 2018)

lewis said:


> Could you possibly explain in abit more detail how these and the ABM ones intonation is adjustable?.


See that spot behind the saddle in the "ramp" area of the bridge? That's a grub screw that goes through the side of the saddle and pushes against the wall of the bridge. You gotta loosen that and then slide the saddle back or forth with your fingers. It's a hassle, but not as much of a hassle as doing it with FR saddles though.


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## Lemonbaby (Aug 4, 2018)

The moving part is simply dropped into the “channel“ and sits loose once you untighten the diagonal screw in the dent. I'd prefer the Hipshot bridge or (even better) Mera Sub III for a headless build.


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## Omzig (Aug 4, 2018)

Pikka Bird said:


> See that spot behind the saddle in the "ramp" area of the bridge? That's a grub screw that goes through the side of the saddle and pushes against the wall of the bridge. You gotta loosen that and then slide the saddle back or forth with your fingers. It's a hassle, but not as much of a hassle as doing it with FR saddles though.



Just uploaded this pic to describe just this but you beat me to it with your post lol







Id have gone for this as they look a better build (TFM rip offs by the look)






https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr...adless-Guitar-Bridge/1837209_32861109889.html

But you might have to route for there base/intonation plates,depend on your neck/FB height/depth


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## KnightBrolaire (Aug 4, 2018)

Omzig said:


> Just uploaded this pic to describe just this but you beat me to it with your post lol
> 
> 
> 
> ...


the bottom ones are the new tengda bridges iirc. tengda makes good shit.


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## Lemonbaby (Aug 4, 2018)

The T4M hommage looks nice, but 184 Euros is steep for China hardware of unknown quality. And that's w/o customs bringing the price up to 220 (calculated with El Cheapo shipping, that will probably never arrive at my door)...


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## Omzig (Aug 4, 2018)

Lemonbaby said:


> The T4M hommage looks nice, but 184 Euros is steep for China hardware of unknown quality. And that's w/o customs bringing the price up to 220 (calculated with El Cheapo shipping, that will probably never arrive at my door)...



Yep you can take a chance with customs,ive ordered a few times from this guy's store (musooparts) both via ali and ebay and stuff arrived within 5-6 days well packaged (pay the extra £ or Two for tracking del option) & nothing has sofar been stopped,not sure how things stand with US/China imports atm but it seems a lot of stuff from China-UK isn't getting pulled even the floyd rose i ordered (wasn't a cheap ass knock off i though it would be) that was valued at £48 on the shipping label didn't get pulled...it's always a risk though 

Feedback seems good on those sofar,but what ever lewis go's for it would be cool to hear his feedback.


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## lewis (Aug 4, 2018)

Lemonbaby said:


> The moving part is simply dropped into the “channel“ and sits loose once you untighten the diagonal screw in the dent. I'd prefer the Hipshot bridge or (even better) Mera Sub III for a headless build.



Believe me dude. I would have gone Hipshot on this too BUT the guitar the hardware is for is multiscale. No amount of begging to Hipshot or Kiesel (exclusivity contract on angled hipshot headless bridges) got them to sell me one.
So i HAD to source other stuff. Mera was too pricey for me as was ABM. Because they were like £30 each and that doesnt include a headpiece of any kind. This Guyker order was £149 for all 6 bridges AND the locking headpieces so alot more affordable for me.

Also for what its worth, i think that grub screw idea for intonation seems ok haha.


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## crackout (Aug 5, 2018)

The ABM- or Strandberg-style intonation adjustments are awful. The only way to go with a spring-loaded screw that moves the ramp over the base.


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## ixlramp (Aug 5, 2018)

Actually the drop-in saddle block design is superior because the set screw locks them tightly into position with lots of contact with the bridge, whereas a conventional screw-adjusted saddle is less rigid and has no rigidity in 1 direction the.
They're a little more fiddly to move but not an issue.
Those Eastensound tuners and the many similar designs used by high-end headless guitars are more fiddly to adjust, you have to loosen the string completely and shift the whole bridge to intonate it.


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## lewis (Aug 7, 2018)

UPDATE:
Annoyingly even though i was able to order them and pay, they are not even in stock. Thats abit cheeky.
The seller has told me they are temporarily out of stock and im waiting to find out for how long. He is also trying to get me to have the other ones posted in here instead.

I really do have a preference for the all black ones but does anyone think i should get the other ones instead?.
The originals clearly mount flout which suit me but im not sure if the other ones need routing? If so i dont want them. I just want to be able to drill holes to fix the bridges.


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## Lemonbaby (Aug 7, 2018)

lewis said:


> The originals clearly mount flout which suit me but im not sure if the other ones need routing? If so i dont want them. I just want to be able to drill holes to fix the bridges.


No one can tell you w/o a technical drawing...


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## Omzig (Aug 7, 2018)

So based on this super tecnical photo from ali.... 






I come away with a depth of 15 mm for the tuning barrel and base plate






Which is just what the orginal TFM bridges and base plates i used on my self built stranberg clone 7 string measure......

So question is whats the neck/FB end depth of your headless FF build?


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## lewis (Aug 7, 2018)

Omzig said:


> So based on this super tecnical photo from ali....
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Man thanks for this.

Let me grab it out its case, measure and report back.


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## lewis (Aug 7, 2018)

Right, seems to me that from the body updwards to the top of a fret is something low like 6.5mm.
So if this is minimum 15mm thats guna be way too high right?


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## lewis (Aug 7, 2018)




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## Lemonbaby (Aug 7, 2018)

Woohoo, that's what I call a deep neck pocket. Did you check the dimensions of the single bridges you ordered?


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## lewis (Aug 7, 2018)

Lemonbaby said:


> Woohoo, that's what I call a deep neck pocket. Did you check the dimensions of the single bridges you ordered?


I mean, no i didnt haha BUT those look like they mount totally flush without needing a mouting plate so im assuming they sit much lower.

Yeah this neck pocket/heel literally reminds me of a strandberg.


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## lewis (Aug 7, 2018)

Doesnt seem likely i can get them based on what the seller is saying. Im hoping for another reply tonight while im asleep haha


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## Omzig (Aug 7, 2018)

lewis said:


> I mean, no i didnt haha BUT those look like they mount totally flush without needing a mouting plate so im assuming they sit much lower.
> 
> Yeah this neck pocket/heel literally reminds me of a strandberg.



Well the "action" setting screw at the front does allow you to drop the string inside of the tuning barrel a few mm,but looking at it from the pics your action would still be at lowest 3mm without routing for the base plates.....

Is it just that you don't have/haven't used a router/bits that you don't want to recess the base plates?


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## lewis (Aug 7, 2018)

Omzig said:


> Well the "action" setting screw at the front does allow you to drop the string inside of the tuning barrel a few mm,but looking at it from the pics your action would still be at lowest 3mm without routing for the base plates.....
> 
> Is it just that you don't have/haven't used a router/bits that you don't want to recess the base plates?


Yes thats literally it. Plus the body is already painted and i know i will screw it up in all liklihood.


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## Omzig (Aug 7, 2018)

Totally understandable,Routers are not something to casually fuck about with  

Pity your not closer to me id have done the routing for free,Maybe shout out if there are any UK builders on here in your area who would do it for a few beer tokens  

I can't find your first set of bridges on AliE or any other sites besides baba ,i do see them being used on the legator ghost guitars,maybes fire them a message asking if they will sell you a set or if the have an OEM you can contact. Good luck !

https://www.legatorguitars.com/customer-support/#support


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## lewis (Aug 8, 2018)

He has said he will issue me a refund as they are not in stock basically.
Annoying.

Im going to message legator and ask them if they will sell their hardware or if they can tell me where they order it from.

If not does anyone think it would be worth just ordering a standard hipshot headless bridge and hoping there is enough room on it to intontate correctly a fan between 26 - 25 inch?


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## lewis (Aug 8, 2018)

Other options is pay a fair bit more and order in some ABM ones


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## Lemons (Aug 8, 2018)

lewis said:


> If not does anyone think it would be worth just ordering a standard hipshot headless bridge and hoping there is enough room on it to intontate correctly a fan between 26 - 25 inch?



No. 

Here's why:
the Hipshot headless hardtail bridge doesn't have dimensions online so I'm basing this on the trem version, which I figure must be at least close in terms of size. The maximum intonation adjustment is roughly 0.300 inches which equals 7.62mm. For a 1 inch fan assuming the parallel fret is at 12 would still require a bare minimum of 12.5mm (0.492 inches) to even be near the right position, so assuming you cut the springs on the low end chances are it still wouldn't have enough space. 

For the record, the T4M style bridge you posted does not require any routing for the install.


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## lewis (Aug 8, 2018)

Lemons said:


> No.
> 
> Here's why:
> the Hipshot headless hardtail bridge doesn't have dimensions online so I'm basing this on the trem version, which I figure must be at least close in terms of size. The maximum intonation adjustment is roughly 0.300 inches which equals 7.62mm. For a 1 inch fan assuming the parallel fret is at 12 would still require a bare minimum of 12.5mm (0.492 inches) to even be near the right position, so assuming you cut the springs on the low end chances are it still wouldn't have enough space.
> ...


the issue i have though is string height.
As I posted, from body upto top of frets is only 6.5mm.

The height of the T4M style ones is 15mm including mounting plate.
That would be the string height at a crazy high level above the frets right?


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## I play music (Aug 8, 2018)

lewis said:


> The height of the T4M style ones is 15mm including mounting plate.
> That would be the string height at a crazy high level above the frets right?


Depends on your neck angle or is it parallel to the body?


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## Lemonbaby (Aug 8, 2018)

lewis said:


> If not does anyone think it would be worth just ordering a standard hipshot headless bridge and hoping there is enough room on it to intontate correctly a fan between 26 - 25 inch?


Just measured it on mine - the intonation adjustment range is somewhere in between 6mm and 7mm. The the bass saddles have shorter screws, but that's far too little room for adjustment to cope with half an inch of fan. You could try talking Hipshot into selling you a slanted headless bridge...



lewis said:


> the issue i have though is string height.
> As I posted, from body upto top of frets is only 6.5mm.
> 
> The height of the T4M style ones is 15mm including mounting plate.
> That would be the string height at a crazy high level above the frets right?


The T4M will indeed be crazy high, there's no chance to make it work without routing the mounting slots. Alternative, as you built that guitar yourself: add a 5mm veneer to the bottom of your neck. However, the T4M is even more expensive than the ABM, so you could just buy those.

For future builds: never build a guitar before you have all parts on your desk.


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## lewis (Aug 8, 2018)

Lemonbaby said:


> Just measured it on mine - the intonation adjustment range is somewhere in between 6mm and 7mm. The the bass saddles have shorter screws, but that's far too little room for adjustment to cope with half an inch of fan. You could try talking Hipshot into selling you a slanted headless bridge...
> 
> 
> The T4M will indeed be crazy high, there's no chance to make it work without routing the mounting slots. Alternative, as you built that guitar yourself: add a 5mm veneer to the bottom of your neck. However, the T4M is even more expensive than the ABM, so you could just buy those.
> ...


this build was a used purchase from some dude who imported the Kit (neck and body already finished and installed) from the States to Europe. Then fell out of love with the project and finishing it, so sold it to me for crazy cheap 

if i were literally building everything from scratch myself, then yeah I would have already bought all the hardware at the same time and built around it.
Yeah Im going to go ABM route. It was an impulse purchase because of how cheap it was.
Multi scale headless with ergo neck, stainless steel frets, glow in the dark side blocks with bright green painted body? Had to have it haha
(£250 incl delivery)


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## Lemons (Aug 8, 2018)

@lewis The ABM bridge still has a string height of 11mm, which leaves you with a minimum string height of 4.5mm above the fret on the outside strings. It might be easier to add more material to the bottom of the neck pocket or the neck itself, I doubt you'll find anything with a string height of less than 10mm when it comes to headless hardware.


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## lewis (Aug 8, 2018)

Lemons said:


> @lewis The ABM bridge still has a string height of 11mm, which leaves you with a minimum string height of 4.5mm above the fret on the outside strings. It might be easier to add more material to the bottom of the neck pocket or the neck itself, I doubt you'll find anything with a string height of less than 10mm when it comes to headless hardware.


ouch. Deary me. What was GOCs plans for these kits then for goodness sake? haha. They sold these in batches like this with no routing and already painted bodies and necks already bolted on.

so what Hardware were they envisaging people using for these kits? haha


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## Lemons (Aug 8, 2018)

lewis said:


> ouch. Deary me. What was GOCs plans for these kits then for goodness sake? haha. They sold these in batches like this with no routing and already painted bodies and necks already bolted on.
> 
> so what Hardware were they envisaging people using for these kits? haha



They probably managed to sell these so cheap by skipping the planning phase completely.


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## Lemonbaby (Aug 8, 2018)

lewis said:


> ouch. Deary me. What was GOCs plans for these kits then for goodness sake? haha. They sold these in batches like this with no routing and already painted bodies and necks already bolted on.
> 
> so what Hardware were they envisaging people using for these kits? haha


You have to cut/file a slot into the ABM bridges anyway and can get the string level down to slightly below 9mm this way. You could get the high e action to 2.xmm this way, the rest is proably less of an issue due to the radius (low E sits a little higher anyway). I'm wondering how good the fretwork was executed and what action really will be possible...


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