# First Build: 8 String



## Taylor (Jan 2, 2014)

Specs:

27" scale
Neck-Through
5 piece Walnut/Maple Neck
Swamp Ash Body
Cocobolo or Redwood Burl Top
Bocote Fretboard
Tru Oil Finish

Black Hipshot Bridge & Locking Tuners
Seymour Duncan Nazgul/Sentient Pickups

The general shape is going to be a Skervesen Raptor shape, with a (reversed) Skervesen Viper-ish headstock. 

On to the Pics:

The Neck (lol dog toys)











The Fretboard













The neck blank needs to be run through a jointer, and I still need to re-saw (and fine sand) the Bocote Billet, but I finally got started! Progress is probably going to be a little slow, but I will post updates when I can! (Lets hope I don't screw up too much)

Oh, and I "forgot" to add the member built tag, since ElRay seems to enjoy posting the reminders.


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## Bodes (Jan 2, 2014)

A "like" and a "thanks" due to including the obligatory foot shot!
Some nice looking wood there!


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## ManuHB (Jan 3, 2014)

I agree with Mr Bodes! That wood looks amazing. 
Hey dude, a suggestion from a mate working on the same thing: why not try to design your own guitar? I mean, since you are going to go through a relatively long and expensive process to create your guitar, make it something unique! Haha well that's subjective and totally up to you, but I had to say it  . Have you decieded already stuff like what bridge you'll be using and so? 
Keep it up mate!


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## Deegatron (Jan 3, 2014)

Im also a fan of the accidental foot shot. I have at least one in every build.

That fret board looks stellar. please don't ruin it with inlay. just leave it blank... Just my opinion tho. your build.

ManuHB - for a first build I think he's buit off more than most.. 8 strings is plenty to be worrying about without worrying about body shape and how it will work sitting down vs standing + upper fret access and all that junk. copying an established body and headstock design will allow him to focus on the important things like level frets, a nice tight neck joint and proper neck angle to name a few.


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## Taylor (Jan 4, 2014)

@ManuHB The body is going to be kind of my own take on the Skervy Raptor, not a carbon copy . And I'll be using a Hipshot Bridge and Locking Tuners.

@Deegatron Oh yeah, I knew from the start that there would be no inlay. Why would I cover up all that beautiful grain!?!


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## skeels (Jan 4, 2014)

Beautiful wood!


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## Taylor (Jan 4, 2014)

Okay, I have a question. I was practicing fretting today on a few scraps of hard maple (getting better at it). After I pounded the fret wire in, I tested how easily they would come out. I stuck my thumb under the protruding edge of the wire, and was able to push it out, albeit with significant force. So my question is this: Should the frets pop out by only pushing pretty hard with my thumb?


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## Deegatron (Jan 4, 2014)

GraveyardThrone said:


> Okay, I have a question. I was practicing fretting today on a few scraps of hard maple (getting better at it). After I pounded the fret wire in, I tested how easily they would come out. I stuck my thumb under the protruding edge of the wire, and was able to push it out, albeit with significant force. So my question is this: Should the frets pop out by only pushing pretty hard with my thumb?



No, they should be in there pretty tight. make sure of the following.
A) correct fret slot width
B) fret slot is deep enough that the fret can COMPLETELY seat.\
C) take a triangle file and bevel the tops of the fret slots where the fret crown will meet the fretboard. there is a very small radius here and putting a small bevel here helps the fret seat completely. 
D) clean out the fret slot 100% RIGHT before fretting.
E) fret slots must be 100% perpendicular to the fretboard.... this is more important the larger your fretwire gets....

now try to fret your scrap again... when you think you've got the wire seated 100 take a piece of paper and run the corner of the paper along where the fret meets the fret board. if the paper slides under the fret you are not 100% seated.

another thing to try.... once you've finished fretting, clamp your radius caul that you used to sand the fret board radius to the frets... now run some water thin CA glue from each side of the fret.... leave it to dry for a few hours.... that should hold down any frets that want to spring up and should help keep everything more level.


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## Taylor (Jan 4, 2014)

Alright, I went out and tried again, and they fit really tight. I just wasn't pounding them in hard enough to seat them properly the first time.


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## Taylor (Jan 8, 2014)

Alright, small update: 

Swamp Ash Wings ordered from Exotic Woods, and a nice Redwood Burl Drop Top ordered from Oregon Wild Wood.

Bocote billet has been re-sawn and needs a little TLC before it becomes fretboard material.

Pics later!


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## Taylor (Jan 20, 2014)

Sorry about the the triple post, but I have another question! I cut the scarf joint and am ready to glue it. 

This style of scarf joint:






When I go to glue it, I should probably set the headstock end a little proud of the neck, right? I feel like if I try to glue it even, the headstock end might slip down, and I'll have to sand down the neck end to level everything, which is considerably more to sand. If I glue the headstock end a little high (maybe 1/32"), I'll have much less leveling to do.

Oh, and pics tomorrow. I promise.


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## 9Lives (Jan 20, 2014)

I love the fret board. I'm going to be doing my first soon.


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## Deegatron (Jan 20, 2014)

I highly recommend you build yourself a router sled... it should only cost you about $10 bux or so and it's ideal for cleaning up the scarf joint and leveling the rest of the neck all in one setup.... 
then you can flip the neck and shim it and use the sled on the back side of the neck to bring it down to the correct thickness and taper... this helps ALOT with getting a nice consistent carve.
but that's just my 2 cents... YMMV


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## BlackMastodon (Jan 20, 2014)

Setting the headstock piece a bit higher than the neck should be more than fine when gluing it. It's like you said, leveling off that bit from the headstock will be a lot easier than leveling the whole neck. Try using nails on the sides towards the edges to keep the headstock piece and the neck together when gluing, it should make it a lot easier and it won't slip around on you.

Good luck, and happy building.


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## shikamaru (Jan 21, 2014)

GraveyardThrone said:


> The Fretboard
> 
> 
> 
> ...



drool ! this is incredible, cant wait to see how it looks like on the final product !

Hope youll have a ton of fun with this man !


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## pondman (Jan 21, 2014)

That fretboard is the dogs


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## Taylor (Jan 21, 2014)

Okay so PICS!!! (as promised)

The Swamp Ash Wing set got here this week:





Along with the Redwood Burl Top:









Here it is with the body template:




I was disappointed when I went to the store for some MDF for my template... they didn't have any of the spalted variety . 

Sorry the pics are super noisy (and overall pretty crappy), been using my uncle's super old point and shoot. (shouldn't have dropped mine in a stream last year)

Anyways, the scarf joint is going to get glued tomorrow, and I'll try to get the fretboard cut and slotted too. I'll try to get some action shots in if I can!


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## XxJoshxX (Jan 21, 2014)

I've never seen redwood Burl like that, is it quartersawn?


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## Taylor (Jan 21, 2014)

XxJoshxX said:


> I've never seen redwood Burl like that, is it quartersawn?



Nope, it's flatsawn. I got from here: Guitar Wood and Tonewood Products - Oregon Wild Wood


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## MikeDojcsak (Jan 22, 2014)

Some really nice woods you've got there. About how much would one expect to pay to embark on a similar project? Including woods, tools, pickups, electronics etc. I'm really interested.


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## Taylor (Jan 22, 2014)

MikeDojcsak said:


> Some really nice woods you've got there. About how much would one expect to pay to embark on a similar project? Including woods, tools, pickups, electronics etc. I'm really interested.



This project is running in the range of $600-$700 for all of the wood, pickups, hardware, and electronics. I haven't had to buy any tools that I didn't already have (bandsaw, tablesaw, bench sander, orbital sander, etc...), those could be some major expenses if you don't have them (and need them).


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## Taylor (Feb 25, 2014)

Bump.

Finally got the fretboard slotted.












One Down





$7 Harbor Freight saw did its job!





Almost there!





Now to get rid of the paper.





There!





Still gotta build a router sled, then I can square up the neck and get the fretboard glued up!


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## Taylor (Mar 7, 2014)

Alright well, the neck is squared up, and the truss rod channel is routed! (sorry no pics right now) But now I have a few questions!

1. What is the best way to remove material (about 1/4") from the face of the headstock for a cap?

2. Would this set of needle files be good for shaping/dressing frets STEWMAC.COM : Needle Files, and if not, could you recommend me some?

3. Is Titebond okay for gluing the fretboard on? (I've heard you should use Hide Glue).

4. I need a gloss poly for the soft redwood burl top, any recommendations?


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## Obstsalat (Mar 8, 2014)

1. Router, if it doesn't turn out flat, use a sandingblock to flatten it out

2. i use normal metal files (the small ones)...they are usually cheaper than stewmac stuff and work just fine

3.tidebond works fine...if you are afraid it is not strong enough, put some drops of epoxy across the joint additionally

4. why do you want poly? tru oil is glossy, easy to work with and provides a thin yet really strong finish. I'd use that


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## Taylor (Mar 8, 2014)

Will Tru-Oil be hard enough to protect the redwood? I've heard oil finishes don't protect as well as others (like poly or epoxy).


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## skeels (Mar 8, 2014)

Redwood is indeed soft- you will want to finish it with a hard clear. It looks great btw.


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## Obstsalat (Mar 8, 2014)

> Redwood is indeed soft- you will want to finish it with a hard clear.



oh okay...didn't know it is THAT soft. My bad then


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 8, 2014)

GraveyardThrone said:


> Will Tru-Oil be hard enough to protect the redwood? I've heard oil finishes don't protect as well as others (like poly or epoxy).



For my first build I used Tru-Oil, and I can vouch that its a DIY dream. It leaves a great looking finish with little or no experience needed to achieve. It does not protect the wood against minor dings and encounters with hard objects like a spray on finish though. My guitar has a body made of big leaf maple and walnut, and it has a ding on the edge already and its not even a year old yet. But I also keep on a stand 90% of the time and not in a case, so, you know... 

I still would reccommend it. I plan on using tru oil again for my next build, just on the neck with a painted body


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Mar 8, 2014)

Obstsalat said:


> oh okay...didn't know it is THAT soft. My bad then



I didnt know it was so soft either, softer than pine and poplar... check it out


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## Taylor (Mar 8, 2014)

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> For my first build I used Tru-Oil, and I can vouch that its a DIY dream. It leaves a great looking finish with little or no experience needed to achieve. It does not protect the wood against minor dings and encounters with hard objects like a spray on finish though. My guitar has a body made of big leaf maple and walnut, and it has a ding on the edge already and its not even a year old yet. But I also keep on a stand 90% of the time and not in a case, so, you know...
> 
> I still would reccommend it. I plan on using tru oil again for my next build, just on the neck with a painted body



Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it! I'm definitely going to Tru-Oil the back and neck, it's just the top I'm worried about. I don't have any spraying equipment, so I will probably have to use wipe-on poly. I know an epoxy finish will work too, but I have absolutely no experience with that. So, does anybody have any wipe-on poly experience/recommendations (or any other finish suggestions)?


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## Taylor (Mar 20, 2014)

Update!

I got the excess from the back of the neck cut away. I also got the book matched top glued together, the neck routed for the top, and the fretboard is getting glued on right now. 

Pics:

The body portion of the neck, routed for the top.





The fretboard getting glued to the neck.

















The redwood top glued together.









The color of the redwood is kind of off in the last two pics, it isn't that dark brown, it's more of a reddish brown.


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## Taylor (Apr 26, 2014)

Somewhat small update: I got the neck & fretboard tapered:





I still need to route the headstock, but I accidentally broke the router... whoops...





Here it is with the body template attached:





The Hipshot locking tuners arrived on Thursday. I ordered them through TK Instruments, and they were a lot cheaper than through Hipshot. They got here really quick too!





I need to get a replacement router in order to cut out the headstockrolleyes, then I can start fretting, get the body wings glued on, and get the top cut and glued on.


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## pondman (Apr 26, 2014)




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## XxJoshxX (Apr 27, 2014)

I would just like to suggest not routing the headstock, you are at a high risk of tearout. I would rather cut as close to the line as possible, and use a drum/spindle sander in a drill press


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## Taylor (Apr 27, 2014)

XxJoshxX said:


> I would just like to suggest not routing the headstock, you are at a high risk of tearout. I would rather cut as close to the line as possible, and use a drum/spindle sander in a drill press



I did have a few incidents of tearout when i tried it today, so I'm definitely going to finish with a spindle sander.


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## Prophetable (Apr 28, 2014)

Yeah, I had some tear out issues on the body and it spooked me from using the router on my headstock. Bandsaw, baby.


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## Taylor (Apr 28, 2014)

Still needs some sanding, but shaping is mostly done!


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## bloodstaindewok (Apr 29, 2014)

Grave this is looking awesome! Your wood choices were great and the way you positioned the knot on the fretboard really made the grain pop. If you don't mind me asking, how or where did you get your templates and measurements for the build? I'm close to ordering the wood for my first body and I'm agonizing over whether to use my RG8 to make a template or go for something else. Thanks and keep up the good work!


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## Taylor (Apr 29, 2014)

bloodstaindewok said:


> Grave this is looking awesome! Your wood choices were great and the way you positioned the knot on the fretboard really made the grain pop. If you don't mind me asking, how or where did you get your templates and measurements for the build? I'm close to ordering the wood for my first body and I'm agonizing over whether to use my RG8 to make a template or go for something else. Thanks and keep up the good work!



Thanks! I made the templates by hand. For routing the fretboard/neck taper, I just transferred my specific fretboard printout from http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/ to a 3/8" piece of scrap pine and cut it out, making sure to leave a little extra wood on the ends. For the headstock template, I just drew the shape by hand and place the tuners holes where they would get the straightest pull on the strings. The body template was also drawn out and cut by hand. I plan on using a contour gauge to copy the neck style of my Ibby when I carve the neck.


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## Taylor (Apr 29, 2014)

I goofed. I totally forgot I was going to cap the headstock with the redwood burl I have for the top. So I glued it on today, and am in the process of sanding it flush with the rest of the headstock. I also had to thin the cap quite a bit, since it was about 1/4" thick. Well, no harm no foul I guess. As you can see in the pic, I am still carving out the truss rod access hole through the redwood (sorry it looks really sloppy right now).


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## Taylor (Jun 11, 2014)

Hump Bump Day!

Been working a lot. Sadly not much of it on the guitar. But I've got the Swamp Ash wings gluing on as I type this. I also got the frets hammered in.















Also, I have a question. I used some super glue on the fret ends to make sure they stay in place, but I have a little excess on many of the frets. What's the best way to remove it?


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## XxJoshxX (Jun 11, 2014)

I would use a razor blade and carefully scrape it.
what grit did you sand the bocore to? Once I got it to about 1500, It could reflect anything.


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## Taylor (Jun 11, 2014)

It's at 1000 right now, need to pick up some 1500 up, amongst other things.


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## jeremyb (Jun 11, 2014)

Epic first build man, can't wait to see how she looks!!


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## Taylor (Jun 11, 2014)

jeremyb said:


> Epic first build man, can't wait to see how she looks!!



Thanks! I really appreciate the kind words!


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## Alikingravi (Jun 12, 2014)

Looking good man. Nice wood selection!


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## Taylor (Jul 9, 2014)

Update...


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## Steinmetzify (Jul 9, 2014)

Into it; can't wait to see it. Subscribed.


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## Taylor (Jul 28, 2014)

Alright the body is almost finished being routed, I thought I was going have a bit more free time these past couple of weeks, but one of the guys from work was on vacation so I got about 16 hours of overtime the past two weeks. Oh well.

Anyways, I'll post some pics tomorrow. I made a boo-boo while routing, but it's not a huge deal. 

Soon... 



(I promise this time )


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## Taylor (Jul 29, 2014)

Alright, a few pics!!!

Things are still a bit rough, and there are screw holes from the template (though they'll be covered up by the top).





Where I made a boo-boo with the router:





Looking alright so far.





I also have a question, the redwood top is 1/4" thick, so should I rout the control cavity all the way through the body?


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## XxJoshxX (Jul 29, 2014)

I would probably route it through.


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## pondman (Jul 29, 2014)

GraveyardThrone said:


> Alright, a few pics!!!
> 
> Things are still a bit rough, and there are screw holes from the template (though they'll be covered up by the top).
> 
> ...



Yeah yeah rout it through but hurry up I want to see this finished right now  This thing is starting to look amazing.
Superb work and a first build at that


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## Guitardude (Jul 29, 2014)

Woah! This is really inspiring, I can't wait to see what the end result is. Thanks for keeping us updated and great job!


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## Taylor (Jul 29, 2014)

pondman said:


> Yeah yeah rout it through but hurry up I want to see this finished right now  This thing is starting to look amazing.
> Superb work and a first build at that


A compliment from the almighty Pondman?


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## pondman (Jul 30, 2014)




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## Taylor (Jul 30, 2014)

pondman said:


>



Why do you even bother, right?


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## Cbutler (Jul 31, 2014)

ugh that things looking great.


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## Taylor (Jul 31, 2014)

Another question: where can I get an input jack plate like the one in this picture?


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## sehnomatic (Jul 31, 2014)

Switchcraft barrel jacks

Don't buy the stewmac ones, two of mine lasted 8 months each.


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## Taylor (Jul 31, 2014)

sehnomatic said:


> Switchcraft barrel jacks
> 
> Don't buy the stewmac ones, two of mine lasted 8 months each.



Thanks! Alright, I've routed out the electronics cavity, but no pics since the camera is away.


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## Steinmetzify (Aug 6, 2014)

Looking good man. Stoked to see it done!


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## Blue1970Cutlass (Aug 6, 2014)

Dunno how I missed this one until now 

That burled redwood is AMAZING!


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## Taylor (Aug 7, 2014)

Small update:

The control cavity routed (still needs to be cleaned up), the grain matching cavity cover is cut out.






Started cutting out the fretboard area of the top:









Also, on an unrelated note, picked up some wood from the local supplier. 

Guess that wood!!!


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## XxJoshxX (Aug 7, 2014)

Cocobolo?


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## Taylor (Aug 8, 2014)

Yup.


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## VSK Guitars (Aug 8, 2014)

Looking pretty damn good for a first build man... nice clean work!


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## Alex Kenivel (Aug 9, 2014)

Ohboyohboyohboyohboy


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## immortalx (Aug 9, 2014)

A first build? And it's an 8 string? And it's looking awesome?
Can't wait to see more man


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## Taylor (Aug 15, 2014)

Everybody ready for an update? No? Oh, well then I guess I can wait... 

Anyway I got the top glued on and trimmed to the body, and I have to say, she's looking sexy (even with the dried glue around the fretboard and the superficial scratches ).
















Please excuse all the sawdust, I didn't bother cleaning up before I took the pictures.

I still have to fine sand the top, and get rid of all the tiny dents and scratches that the super soft redwood gets.


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## Taylor (Aug 19, 2014)

Well, I still haven't sanded the top, but I got some routing done!





What do you guys think, tummy cut or no tummy cut? (Some nice figuring in the rear of the top ash piece too)





You can see some router burn I still have to take care of in this pic.





Do you think it looks good like this, or should I have it taper down to nothing like a Skervesen/Blackmachine/whatever?





What I'm working on right now:





Sorry everything in the pics is either not cleaned up or sloppy looking, I'm a lazy bastard.


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## Taylor (Aug 22, 2014)

Triple post FTW!!! 

Started a lot of carving today: The tummy cut, the heel, and the neck.


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## Taylor (Aug 25, 2014)

Quadruple post. This must be some kind of record .

Anyways, quick question. The Seymour Duncan Nazgul/Sentient diagram looks like this:






Will I have to rout deeper for the pickup ears, or leave it flat?


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## Deegatron (Aug 25, 2014)

I would rout the entire thing to the same depth.
The adjustable pole pices look like they come down to just about the same depth as the ears do so you might as well do it all the same depth.


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## lewis (Aug 25, 2014)

keep the progress coming. This is looking epic especially for a first build.. good choice on the Pickups too


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## Taylor (Aug 25, 2014)

Deegatron said:


> I would rout the entire thing to the same depth.
> The adjustable pole pices look like they come down to just about the same depth as the ears do so you might as well do it all the same depth.



Alright! Thanks for the info!


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## Taylor (Aug 28, 2014)

They're here......


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## Taylor (Sep 1, 2014)

Pic dump bump.

Got one pickup cavity routed:






Using a Forstner bit to hog out the majority of the next cavity.









What a mess!





About halfway routed:





And done!










Next is to drill for the Hipshot bridge. I have a template made up. You can see the first pickup and bridge templates that I messed up too. 





Until next time


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## Taylor (Sep 5, 2014)

Sorry for the constant updates, but I'm actually getting work done! (yay)

I've got most of the neck carved, still need to shape the volute and the heel.











A nice pile of shavings...






Worth its weight in gold.





Also in the last pic, you can see the first of 8 string-through holes, since I haven't fully drilled the other 7 yet .


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## Taylor (Sep 14, 2014)

Starting to carve the heel, still not done yet as you can see:









The laminates are about 1mm off . Should have used nails when I glued the headstock.


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## Dominoes282 (Sep 14, 2014)

Major freaking props to you

If I had the balls to do this I would be a better man


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## immortalx (Sep 14, 2014)

Don't let this put you off, it looks very nice for a first build and i only wish my first one looked half as good as yours! 
Definitely use nails, as you said, next time and i find it helps to keep the neck blank as square as possible on all sides before gluing the scarf joint.


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## mathloss (Sep 15, 2014)

You 're going to build a real beauty . keep on working!!!!!


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## CD1221 (Sep 15, 2014)

Nice work!


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## BlackMastodon (Sep 15, 2014)

Is that a giant crack towards the volute?  It's looking good otherwise, I just want to know the story behind that.


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## Taylor (Sep 15, 2014)

BlackMastodon said:


> Is that a giant crack towards the volute?  It's looking good otherwise, I just want to know the story behind that.



Haha, I was wondering when someone would notice that. It's actually from when I was cutting then excess of the neck off with the bandsaw. The bandsaw got a little eager, but it didn't get too deep, so it's not a problem. It'll get removed when I start working on the volute.


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## BlackMastodon (Sep 16, 2014)

Glad to hear it, I was worried that it went too deep.


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## Taylor (Sep 16, 2014)

So was I when I first saw it! I nearly shat myself.  Then I measured it and found that it was just 1/32'' from being too deep.


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## VSK Guitars (Sep 24, 2014)

Looking great so far man... the neck heel looks sweet man!


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## Taylor (Sep 24, 2014)

Thanks! I kind of agonized over how I was going to shape the heel, but I'm happy with the results so far. It feels super comfy already!


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## Steinmetzify (Oct 3, 2014)

Haven't checked this in a while; comig along nicely man! HTFU, can't wait to see it done...


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## Zai (Oct 18, 2014)

Uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh finish this!!! 
haha


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## Taylor (Oct 18, 2014)

Yeah, sorry I haven't updated this in a while. Working 40+ hours a week and 15ish hours of classes, so I haven't been able to get much work done. I should have an update for you guys either Monday or Tuesday.


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## Zai (Oct 19, 2014)

Thanks man!!!! I just love how this is turning out!


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## Taylor (Oct 21, 2014)

Postponing picture update until Thursday, currently writing two separate essays that are going to take all night. 

Sorry guys!


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## Neilzord (Oct 22, 2014)

Awesome work for a first build! I can only hope my first build goes this well! haha 

And sorry just doesn't cut it. I wanted to see more!


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## buttsiren (Oct 22, 2014)

GraveyardThrone said:


> Postponing picture update until Thursday, currently writing two separate essays that are going to take all night.
> 
> Sorry guys!



I was worried you finished your build without us! Thank God


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## Taylor (Oct 23, 2014)

A picture update as promised.

I was hoping to get the volute finished today, but things dragged along at work and I ended up working 11 hours. Plus I had to finish a paper after work, so I only got about half an hour of working/worrying on the guitar.

The rough volute so far, it's ugly I know. 







The bandsaw scar will disappear once I finish shaping.







Finally, I realized I don't have a current full body shot so here you guys go.






Hopefully I can get the volute done and sand to prepare for finishing tomorrow on my half-day off.


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## Taylor (Oct 31, 2014)

Okay, I'm at class right now; but when I get home, I'll have no excuse to not finish the volute and start sanding. So, if I do not post another pic update later tonight, somebody please kick my ass.


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## jwade (Oct 31, 2014)

Man, I love that bocote! A dude I know has a nice bocote fingerboard on the acoustic he's building, that already made me really want to use some, but yours is like looking at some gorgeous galaxy. Stoked for you.


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## Taylor (Oct 31, 2014)

Ass kicking avoided!!! 


Volute is basically done, just needs some cleaning up around the edges (as you can see).


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## superash (Nov 1, 2014)

That fretboard wood is so crazy. I'm in love.


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## SkyIllusion (Nov 2, 2014)

Fretboard = bonertown.


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## Killemall1983 (Nov 2, 2014)

Your volute can go down a little bit. You want the point of it to be directly behind the nut slot.


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## Taylor (Nov 2, 2014)

Killemall1983 said:


> Your volute can go down a little bit. You want the point of it to be directly behind the nut slot.



I was thinking that. Just needs a few passes on the spindle sander.


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## Taylor (Nov 3, 2014)

Any recommendations for a water based poly for the burled redwood top? I've tried some Minwax Polycrylic on some scraps, but no matter how carefully I apply it I get tiny air bubbles, even with a single brushstroke.


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## Taylor (Nov 12, 2014)

Bump for finish recommendations


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## Pikka Bird (Nov 12, 2014)

^Maybe get a better brush? How do you dip it?


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## Dabo Fett (Nov 12, 2014)

damn man looks awesome so far. everytime i see these sso builds i always think i can do it myself...and then i come back to reality haha


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## Taylor (Nov 12, 2014)

Pikka Bird said:


> ^Maybe get a better brush? How do you dip it?



I put the brush in and pull it out... 

But yeah, I dip it in vertically (one dip), and allow some excess to run off before brushing it on. Maybe I should try a wipe-on?

Does anybody have any experience with water based wipe-on?


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## metaldoggie (Nov 13, 2014)

Have you tried lambswool instead of a brush?

No on the WB but I would imagine you would get a good application from a pad applicator.


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## canuck brian (Nov 13, 2014)

That high E tuner area might need to be flattened out a bit - i think the tuner might touch the volute and not allow it to sit flat.

Lookin solid!


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## Killemall1983 (Nov 13, 2014)

You are going to need to seal that redwood with either epoxy or superglue. Redwood is basically just a huge sponge, and if you use a water based finish directly on top it will soak it up forever and expand.


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## canuck brian (Nov 13, 2014)

Killemall1983 said:


> You are going to need to seal that redwood with either epoxy or superglue. Redwood is basically just a huge sponge, and if you use a water based finish directly on top it will soak it up forever and expand.



Would sanding sealer work for redwood?


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## Taylor (Nov 13, 2014)

canuck brian said:


> That high E tuner area might need to be flattened out a bit - i think the tuner might touch the volute and not allow it to sit flat.
> 
> Lookin solid!



Thanks! The volute has since been brought back a little bit, and all of the tuners fit nicely.



Killemall1983 said:


> You are going to need to seal that redwood with either epoxy or superglue. Redwood is basically just a huge sponge, and if you use a water based finish directly on top it will soak it up forever and expand.



Thanks for the info! Can you recommend an epoxy sealer?



metaldoggie said:


> Have you tried lambswool instead of a brush?
> 
> No on the WB but I would imagine you would get a good application from a pad applicator.



No, but I need to make a run to the hardware store, I'll pick some lambswool applicators up.


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## IVIaverick52 (Nov 14, 2014)

Love the Ormsby-esque headstock. I always loved that super thin reverse headstock but I've been nervous to try it on an 8 string due to all that tension on the lower strings. Let me know how it holds up. Killer looking build overall.


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## Taylor (Nov 17, 2014)

IVIaverick52 said:


> Love the Ormsby-esque headstock. I always loved that super thin reverse headstock but I've been nervous to try it on an 8 string due to all that tension on the lower strings. Let me know how it holds up. Killer looking build overall.



Thanks!


If I use regular oil-based Poly will the redwood still need to be sealed?


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## IVIaverick52 (Nov 19, 2014)

One of my buddies is currently building a guitar for Reese Scruggs of Havok, and he's doing the entire thing just oiled for the finish. I'm sure it would be fine, it just takes a lot more care.


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## Taylor (Nov 21, 2014)

Preparations for finishing have begun.

Pictures tomorrow if I have time, definitely by Sunday.


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## Kittenflower (Nov 23, 2014)

Where the pics at? ;-)


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## Taylor (Nov 23, 2014)

Kittenflower said:


> Where the pics at? ;-)



Here!

After the 4th coat of poly.


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## Kittenflower (Nov 23, 2014)

Nice! Guitar starts to look like it ran away from a fierce jungle


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## Pikka Bird (Nov 24, 2014)

That looks like a caramel river with cake bits jutting out of it.


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## immortalx (Nov 24, 2014)

GraveyardThrone said:


> Here!
> 
> After the 4th coat of poly.


This is the definition of a popping figure  It really came to life!


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## XxJoshxX (Nov 24, 2014)

Does anybody else see the alien lady from lilo and stitch in that top?


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## DredFul (Nov 25, 2014)

Dayum


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## Steinmetzify (Nov 30, 2014)

Almost looks like it's on fire.....this thing is so damn good looking. Great job so far, man!


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## Taylor (Dec 5, 2014)

I couldn't find any Tru-Oil at the store but I found something that promises to be much better than Tru-Oil could ever be. 






Last coat of Poly is on, but you can't see it . Pics will come once everything is finished.


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## Taylor (Dec 10, 2014)

Well, I lied. You guys can have one pic.






Oops! It's a little blurry, I guess you guys will have to wait until the NGD.


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## DredFul (Dec 11, 2014)

shinyyy!


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## Taylor (Dec 29, 2014)

Plan on seeing a NGD thread on Wednesday, and perhaps another thread after that...


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## DredFul (Dec 29, 2014)

GraveyardThrone said:


> perhaps another thread after that...



YES PLEASE!


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## Taylor (Dec 31, 2014)

NGD thread is here: http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/extended-range-guitars/286552-ngd-only-took-year.html#post4257366


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