# First build - Mayones-ey six string



## dankarghh (Oct 19, 2014)

Hey guys,

I've just started my first build after gaining much inspiration from everyone on this forum. You all make it look so easy.. I have pretty much no woodworking skills so we'll see how this goes.
I used forum user quoenusz's plans as a plan for the body. I'm still undecided on headstock shape.

Specs

25.5" scale
bareknuckle aftermath set
ebony fretboard
maple neck
paulownia body
quilted maple top (veneer) 
evertune bridge (maybe?)

I have an evertune bridge from another guitar I refinished that I don't play, and a set of white bare knuckle aftermaths that aren't currently being used, so the plan is to put all those together in a mayonesque type guitar.

Any see any problems or issues with the plan so far?

Everything has gone pretty smooth so far. I assume the neck will be the hard part.


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## BlackMastodon (Oct 19, 2014)

I like the sound of where this is going.


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## StarbardGuitar (Oct 19, 2014)

This is going to be a cool build! I'm going to be starting my 3rd build soon. Some things I've learned through those two builds - you must be patient, and planning ahead of time makes life easier in the end. Good luck!


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## VSK Guitars (Oct 19, 2014)

Looks like a great start on the body man!


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## Sirppi (Oct 19, 2014)

Clean work so far! The neck's not that hard, just measure a million times and always know what you're cutting and where


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## ThtOthrPrsn (Oct 19, 2014)

Looks great so far! Interesting to see how the build turns out!


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## dankarghh (Oct 19, 2014)

Cheers guys. 2 questions..
1. I want to avoid using a neck plate, can someone point me in the direction of some neck screws (or bolts?) I've seen guitars with threaded inserts in the body the neck screws in to. Any advice here?

2. When doingthe scarf joint, i've seen it done in 2 ways. Are you attaching the smaller (to be headstock) piece on the front, or back of the neck? I did a practice one on some pine attaching the smaller piece at the front and it seemed to work out well. Pro's and con's or no real difference?


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## BlackMastodon (Oct 20, 2014)

I don't have much experience with scarf joints but thinking about it from a structural standpoint, if you put the smaller piece on the front of the neck piece, you have the added strength of the fretboard glued on to equal out the tension. The headstock piece on the back of the neck scarf method seems more flimsy to me but that's just my opinion.


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## icos211 (Oct 20, 2014)

You don't have to worry about the structural integrity of the scarf either way you do it. If you are using a hard sealing glue like tight bond original the wood will break before the glue does. And if the wood breaks, then that could have happened to a guitar with no scarf at all. I like the method of attaching it to the front so that you don't see it in the back of the neck.


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## Renkenstein (Oct 20, 2014)

I did a neck located scarf on my first build. I've accidentally been forced to do one on the headstock side on my next build. Read my thread for pointers on the latter method.
http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/lu...zations/280764-renk-build-second-siren-2.html

Body looks good, man!


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## immortalx (Oct 20, 2014)

Looks great already, very clean and tidy work!

You can shop online for threaded inserts here: The Insert Company (UK) Ltd - Specialists in Zinc, Steel and Brass Threaded Inserts for Wood and Plastic.


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## dankarghh (Oct 21, 2014)

Thanks guys. One thing that's bothering me is body thickness. It seems really thick atm, it's about 42mm. I read evertunes need a clearance of 52, so given they strings sit about 10mm off the body, going thinner wouldn't really work. Would it? 

It looks too chunky..


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## dankarghh (Oct 24, 2014)

So I began work on the neck today. I cut the scarf by hand and it was looking good, but only from my angle.. So, i made a quick little jig to sort it out with the router. 








It cleaned up fine, but after removing the clamps I discovered I was about 1mm off. The only solution I can think of it to thin the whole neck down using the router and a new jig. Any ideas?






I have another neck blank here i'm tempted to get into.
I also recieved my pre-radiused fretboard from stewmac and cut it down to size and glued on some binding.


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## Pikka Bird (Oct 24, 2014)

^Just thin it, it's no biggie. Either do it with a router sled jig or tape some medium-heavy grit sandpaper to a long, confirmed flat surface and sand the neck upside down on that.


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## BlackMastodon (Oct 24, 2014)

I really gotta make one of those scarf joint sled jig things.


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## Pikka Bird (Oct 24, 2014)

^Yeah, do that. It literally takes no more than ten minutes, and makes life a LOT easier.


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## immortalx (Oct 24, 2014)

Pikka Bird said:


> ^Yeah, do that. It literally takes no more than ten minutes, and makes life a LOT easier.


+1000
Most useful jig I've made


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## eddiewarlock (Oct 29, 2014)

or go to a joinery and have them pass it on the joiner...


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## Berserker (Oct 29, 2014)

stellasoft said:


> Nicely done, good job.
> 
> I would suggest checking out Fastening Solutions UK, they have over 15 Million parts in stock covering over 200 product lines.


 

How long have you worked there?


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## dankarghh (Oct 30, 2014)

Today I did three bad things. I tricked to thickness the back of the headstock, the bit came loose and tore a big whole in the middle of the headstock..

Luckily I had another maple neck blank ready to cut, I don't know how but I cut it so the headstock was stupidly small which reaaaaallly put a downer on things.

The solution was the use the base of the first neck to cut a piece for my new headstock, only problem being there is a truss channel part the way through it. No big deal, I can cut a strip of wood, fill it and fix it, right?

Then i tried to thickness the headstock AGAIN! using the same method. Now it's 13mm wide... granted it will have a 1mm veneer glued on top but.. should I get a couple of 1mm maple veneer headstock sheets to bring it back up to 16 or so mm??

After all the heartache, I decided to route the body as things couldn't go too much worse. And they didn't? 
















Most importantly, what should I do about this headstock ordeal??


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## JuliusJahn (Oct 30, 2014)

Before you get too bummed out, check what thickness your tuners need. I always use 14mm as a thickness, but found on my ibanez it was like 12.5mm and it works fine. There's a minimum thickness that the bushing will screw down, and is the only thing you really need to be concerned with. Best of luck!

Also, a veneer (when put on correctly) will make it look even better 

That happened to me on a test build before, and I cried. Little did I realize it really doesn't matter . Evertunes need a 53mm body (I think, someone correct me) otherwise you'll go into your pickups. Just a little mishap in planning, but there's still enough meat for the tabs to sit/screw into you'll be ok. No one will see it anyways!


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## JuliusJahn (Oct 30, 2014)

Before you get too bummer out, check what thickness your tuners need. I always use 14mm as a thickness, but found on my ibanez it was like 12.5mm and it works fine. There's a minimum thickness that the bushing will screw down, and is the only thing you really need to be concerned with. Best of luck!

Also, a veneer (when put on correctly) will make it look even better 

That happened to me on a test build before, and I cried. Little did I realize it really doesn't matter . Evertunes need a 53mm body (I think, someone correct me) otherwise you'll go into your pickups. Just a little mishap in planning, but there's still enough meat for the tabs to sit/screw into you'll be ok. No one will see it anyways!


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## Berserker (Oct 30, 2014)

Hard to understand exactly what you're describing without pics, but thickness wise 13mm should be fine for the headstock, but a veneer wouldn't hurt.


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## dankarghh (Oct 30, 2014)

I just checked my horizon and it's not too far off either. Here's a little pic of the veneer.







Another question, when attaching the veneer, i've only seen people cut out the veneer with a sharp blade. Is there another way or is that the go? Seems frustrating..


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## dankarghh (Nov 2, 2014)

Soooo... Am I ordering a new neck blank? Router jig slipped.


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## bombonx101 (Nov 2, 2014)

dankarghh said:


> Soooo... Am I ordering a new neck blank? Router jig slipped.


Why would you buy another one.Add a piece of maple stick,glue it with epoxy ,reroute it again and ,in addition, two pieces of carbon fiber truss rods ,to be sure.In any case.


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## Prophetable (Nov 2, 2014)

Just route a wider (straight) channel, inlay a strip of maple, and reroute. I'd call that good, especially since it's under the fret board.

If it were me I'd just use titebond like any other glue joint. I wouldn't bother with the carbon fiber, either.


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## XxJoshxX (Nov 2, 2014)

I cant really tell how deep it is, but if it didnt go any deeper than the rest of the channel, you could probably just glue right over it. I know ive glued over worse


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## Killemall1983 (Nov 3, 2014)

I personally think you should have glued the veneer on before you ever routed any thing.


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## dankarghh (Nov 3, 2014)

Cheers for the advice guys. Relieved I don't have to start again.

This is the truss channel under the neck Killemall1983 , no veneer here. In the headstock you can see a strip of maple has been glued into the previously routed channel. Just gotta fill it up.


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## XxJoshxX (Nov 3, 2014)

Im pretty sure killemall meant to glue the maple veneer on the body top, and I would trust him if youve seen his veneering. But i guess its too late now.


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## Pikka Bird (Nov 3, 2014)

^That would've made a lot of sense. Getting the veneer nice and flush on the routs is a tedious step that would've been unnecessary if the veneer had been applied before routing.


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## dankarghh (Nov 3, 2014)

Ahhh really? I was worried it might be likely to crack. I still have to route the binding channel, does it make sense to glue on the veneer before I do that? Should make me life at least a little bit easier.


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## Pikka Bird (Nov 4, 2014)

^Yes, it _only_ makes sense to do that. If it's glued properly all the way to the edges then it shan't crack. For the cavities you already did, you either have to be very precise with an exacto blade or slightly less accurate but then follow up with a very sharp router bit with a bearing at the bottom.


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## dankarghh (Nov 8, 2014)

Update: Veneer is glued. there was a tinyyy gap between the two sheets after it dried so theres a smudge of maple filler in there to be cleaned up. 






Routed neck pocket. All went well, but when using the forstner bit to remove excess wood I slipped and messed up the veneer. Really sucks.. Any advice on covering/fixing?


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## BlackMastodon (Nov 8, 2014)

dankarghh said:


> Routed neck pocket. All went well, but when using the forstner bit to remove excess wood I slipped and messed up the veneer. Really sucks.. Any advice on covering/fixing?


Maybe just a darker stain, almost like a burst, around the neck pocket to hide it?


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## venrar (Nov 9, 2014)

hmm, you could route out a small spot to put in a little rectangle of wood or some such with your name on it, or a small metal plate with your name etched on it, make it look intentional haha. Other than that the least noticable thing would be as BlackMastodon said. Of course, take everything I say with a grain of salt, I have no building experience.

Here is an idea for what I mean:


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## Prophetable (Nov 9, 2014)

venrar said:


> hmm, you could route out a small spot to put in a little rectangle of wood or some such with your name on it, or a small metal plate with your name etched on it, make it look intentional haha. Other than that the least noticable thing would be as BlackMastodon said. Of course, take everything I say with a grain of salt, I have no building experience.
> 
> Here is an idea for what I mean:



I think that's actually a pretty good idea.


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## dankarghh (Nov 10, 2014)

It's definitely not the worst idea. I'm not crazy about the it though, it's a weird place for a logo haha. I might try use some filler, i was planning the stain to be darker around the outside anyways.

Thanks dudes


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## Prophetable (Nov 10, 2014)

It's not on a plate, but...


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Nov 10, 2014)

Love seeing that you're using that method to cut the scarf joint, with the router and angled rails on the sides of the neck blank... I have used that method for the past 5 necks I've made and I swear by it. One of my favorite steps in a neck build. 

Heres a fun fact for ya: in the future if you decide to do a fanned fret build, you can easily put a little twist in the headstock to match the nut angle by using the same jig/set up as this, just move the trebel side rail back enough to match the nut angle and route away!... if that all makes any sense.

Also, how is it working with paulownia for the body? I've never heard of/had experience with that kind of wood.


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## dankarghh (Nov 11, 2014)

Hey man. Yeah, that jig saved me some time for sure. I really love the router as a tool. So many uses haha. 

The paulownia, I did only a tiny bit of reading before ordering it I admit. It was dirt cheap, but I have to say, it's SO easy to work with. Shaping the back took all of about 5 minutes. The router loves it too, cuts it like butter, and best of all, the body is LIGHT.


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## dankarghh (Nov 21, 2014)

Body is now bound:






Did first black stain.. I don't like what's going on in some places, the top isn't taking the stain at all, I'm going to sand most of the black right back anyways, but still, annoying. I mustn't have sanded well enough pre stain, I was just too scared of cutting through the veneer.






Hope it's all easily fixed on sand down tomorrow...


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## dankarghh (Nov 21, 2014)

UGHHH also I just noticed the top also has a bubble, guess I went a bit too heavy handed on the stain.. What do I do now..? wait for it all to dry and use an iron the flatten?


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## immortalx (Nov 22, 2014)

Some people use a needle to open a tiny hole in the bubble and re-glue with an iron. Haven't tested this myself but it seems the right thing to do.

For the spots that don't take the stain evenly: That's unfortunately a common thing with veneers if you used too much glue. It can actually seep through the pores to the surface because the veneer is so thin.


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## Prophetable (Nov 22, 2014)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEWrIWNjK_U


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## Killemall1983 (Nov 22, 2014)

I am guessing you are using water based stain? You really should only use alcohol based stain on veneer tops. 
Those spots where the stain didnt take is where the glue soaked all the way through the veneer.


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## dankarghh (Nov 30, 2014)

Thanks for all your help guys. Sorted (mostly) now. So I stained blue and sanded back for a burst effect. I'm still not sure if I like it..










Frets cut, pressed and glued:


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## Steinmetzify (Nov 30, 2014)

Dude you might not be sure if you like it, but I think that blue is ....ing amazing looking. Can't wait to see this done.


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## BlackMastodon (Nov 30, 2014)

^Was just gonna say that.


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## Prophetable (Nov 30, 2014)

Is your laminate peeling up at the center of the bookmatch by the bridge route? What glue did you use?


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## dankarghh (Nov 30, 2014)

Yeah it is. I just need to reglue it but haven't gotten to it just yet. I used titebond II.


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## immortalx (Nov 30, 2014)

You did a fantastic job with the burst dude. This certainly doesn't look like a first build, congratulations!


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## Killemall1983 (Nov 30, 2014)

Just a heads up, you should never use titebond 2 on any of the guitar related stuff.


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## pettymusic (Nov 30, 2014)

Yeah man, I hope my first build goes as good as yours! Keep it up!


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## xMaNgOxKusHx (Nov 30, 2014)

This is inspiring, haven't followed a build in a while, looking forward to completion


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## dankarghh (Dec 1, 2014)

What's wrong with titebond II? I've used it for everything haha...

Thanks for the kind words guys. Glad you're digging it.

I have another embarrassing problem that I've kept to myself... The tuners are too close together on the 3rd and 4th string, I'm hoping I can get away with just ordering real small tuners. Shame as I wanted locking ones..

QUESTION 2 : the finish. I was originally thinking tung/tru oil, but now i'm leaning toward a gloss finish and tru oil neck. Mostly because the paulownia is pretty soft, the more protection the better. Thoughts?


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## VSK Guitars (Dec 1, 2014)

dankarghh said:


> What's wrong with titebond II? I've used it for everything haha...
> 
> Thanks for the kind words guys. Glad you're digging it.
> 
> ...



Tightbond II is fine for gluing up bodies and tops, but I'd stick with Titebond I for necks. From what I've heard online (meaning take it with a grain of salt) the waterproofing ingredient in II keeps it from completely drying for some reason. Although I made necks with Titebond II when I first started building and have never had a problem with them at all so you're probably fine.

Grover mini lockers have about the smallest foot print of any lockers I've used so you may want to look into those.

If you want to go with a hard durable finish and don't have a spray gun setup, Spraymax 2K clear is the way to go. Two cans of that and you'll be good to go. Do not try any miniwax, rustoleum, krylon etc. they are junk.


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## dankarghh (Dec 2, 2014)

Most helpful post ever, thanks dude. Man that 2k stuff looks sweet, but it's $51 a can, plus postage. Lame. I'll look into those tuners too. I think I might be able to get away with trimming the ones I have since looking again which is sweet.

I know paulownia isn't a very popular wood choice, but from what i've read I need to fill it before spraying. Anyone know any different?


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## Pikka Bird (Dec 2, 2014)

Are those tuner holes really that close?


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## canuck brian (Dec 2, 2014)

Pikka Bird said:


> Are those tuner holes really that close?



They can definitely be that close - the ones on my 8 strings almost overlap.

This is seriously looking awesome man. Dyin to see this one finished. 

The only thing i would advise in the future is to drill your control holes first before routing out the cavity itself - you'll avoid any tearout/punchout from the drilling and you'll have a super smooth clean cavity.


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## Pikka Bird (Dec 2, 2014)

^Yeah, I was thinking they look pretty alright to me, at least with the way I imagine the tuner housings from the back...


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## pondman (Dec 2, 2014)

Swirltop said:


> Tightbond II is fine for gluing up bodies and tops, but I'd stick with Titebond I for necks. From what I've heard online (meaning take it with a grain of salt) the waterproofing ingredient in II keeps it from completely drying for some reason. Although I made necks with Titebond II when I first started building and have never had a problem with them at all so you're probably fine.
> 
> Grover mini lockers have about the smallest foot print of any lockers I've used so you may want to look into those.
> 
> If you want to go with a hard durable finish and don't have a spray gun setup, Spraymax 2K clear is the way to go. Two cans of that and you'll be good to go. Do not try any miniwax, rustoleum, krylon etc. they are junk.



Bret , only use Titebond Original. The others are no good for guitar building.
They can create a rubbery joint which is a nightmare on a paint finish or any other finish , come to that. I've been there 

OP, Paulowinia can cause problems with adhesion, especially on veneers which will be dampened with a stain finish later on.
Great build thus far


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## dankarghh (Dec 4, 2014)

Thanks for all the info. I won't be using II anymore ha..

Little update. I re-stained the body a bit in order to fix a few dodgy bits/bubbles. This is what it currently looks like. I think it looks better in pictures than real life..I also put a bit of filler in the back to prep for clear and shaped the heel/cutaway area(though lets not pretend i'm playing too many notes that high on the fretboard). 

















I'm really unsold on the colour, I'm considering doing a fresh light blue over the whole thing to get the burst back. Thoughts?


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## immortalx (Dec 4, 2014)

I like it as it is but if you decide to change it test on scraps first.
Also kudos for the foot pic, I really miss those shots in build diaries


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## VSK Guitars (Dec 4, 2014)

pondman said:


> Bret , only use Titebond Original. The others are no good for guitar building.
> They can create a rubbery joint which is a nightmare on a paint finish or any other finish , come to that. I've been there
> 
> OP, Paulowinia can cause problems with adhesion, especially on veneers which will be dampened with a stain finish later on.
> Great build thus far



Oh yeah for sure the original TB is all I ever use now...


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## dankarghh (Dec 12, 2014)

Not much of an update, but I finished fretting, dressing, crowning etc today. Still have to finish shaping the back of the neck. Plan on starting the clear coat tomorrow after cleaning it up a bit. 

Attached the neck to make sure I hadn't made any horrible mistakes down the line and seems to be so far so good. 

Hardware will be chrome I think. This black ET if for another guitar.
















The finish is in no way perfect and to be honest if it was possible to change the binding easily I think I would have painted the body a flat white colour, would look gross with white binding. Maybe I'll paint it black if I hate it when its done. At this stage I'm still hoping the gloss will make me dig it.

I know a lot of people have lots of success with veneers but its probably my least favourite thing so far. Drop top for me next time!


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## VSK Guitars (Dec 12, 2014)

Once you hit that top with some clear the figure will pop right out. They always look dull after the dye dries. Looks great so far though!


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## Renkenstein (Dec 12, 2014)

I see no problem with that top or the burst. Looks good, man.


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## dankarghh (Dec 13, 2014)

First can of clear done.

Certainly 'popped' It looks full on.. haha


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## Curt (Dec 13, 2014)

That looks 10x better with the clear. The figure came to life!


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## jahosy (Dec 13, 2014)

Yeh the grains are popping up nicely  

Mind me asking what spray can did you use?


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## dankarghh (Dec 13, 2014)

It's definitely not what I envisioned, hoping it grows on me.

I used Septone high gloss acrylic laquer from autobarn.


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## redlol (Dec 13, 2014)

uhmmm no woodworking skills?? LIES! looks great dude


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## dankarghh (Dec 13, 2014)

Haha, stop it. Shooting the last of the clear (hopefully) this afternoon after work.

My plan is to sand the neck to 600 and start to rub on some minwax tung oil. I've never worked with the stuff before, good idea?


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## StarbardGuitar (Dec 18, 2014)

Don't be too hard on yourself. I realize that is easier said than done, but this being your first build is very impressive. I am very much a perfectionist and so whenever I attempt to build, I imagine it a certain way and try to make it perfect and exactly like what I imagine. It seems that you're like that as well. Doing so with your first couple builds, realistically, just isn't going to happen. However, they are great learning experiences and you still will end up with a badass instrument that you made yourself. Also, when the guitar is done and you get to play it, you won't mind all of the things that were bothering you before. Looking forward to seeing this guitar completed!


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## dankarghh (Dec 21, 2014)

Thanks man. But my second one better be perfect! haha. It's coming together pretty nicely now. Just slowly thanks to damn Christmas. As soon as I get some time it's done. The neck turned out great considering I was pretty much blindly rasping away. Quick hardware fitting.






Next update it's done!


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## Prophetable (Dec 22, 2014)

Man, that's looking fresh. Great first build.


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## Renkenstein (Dec 23, 2014)

Ohhhhhh yeah. Blue guitar, white pickups. Gooood choice!


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## Mehnike (Dec 24, 2014)

This whole build is great! I need a fully assembled final weight on this!


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## dankarghh (Dec 26, 2014)

Mehnike said:


> This whole build is great! I need a fully assembled final weight on this!



Hahaha thanks dudes. So keen to get this done already. The guitar is LIGHT for sure, i'll make sure I give you a final weight when it's done. Evertune isn't super lightweight, nor are the locking tuners I have. It seemed well balanced though when I put it together.

Second build planning has begun.


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## VSK Guitars (Dec 26, 2014)

Looks great man!


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## dankarghh (Dec 28, 2014)

Okay okay. I said next update i'm done, BUT. I have a wiring issue. First heres a pic (insists on uploading sideways, sorry)







Alright so as far as I can see bare knuckle don't have diagrams for 2 hums 1 vol. So I used the seymour duncan one found here: Wiring Diagram

I followed that schematic, and adjusted according to wiring colour. When i plug it in, volume works, but it's definitely not earthed properly, and the 3 way switch seems to have no effect. Both pups work on all 3 settings. Am I missing something major?


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## VSK Guitars (Dec 28, 2014)

Just use the BKP schematic for 2HB w/ 1V, 1T, with a 3 way and eliminate the tone circuit.
Never mind that it say push/pull on the volume... and make sure all grounds go to the back of the volume pot, then to the input jack.

https://bareknucklepickups.co.uk/ma...neral/humbuckers/2_hum__1vol__1tone__3way.pdf


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## feraledge (Dec 28, 2014)

This is an amazing first build and that top is goddamn sexy.


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## dankarghh (Jan 1, 2015)

The nut needs filing to play better, but here she is.

Thanks everybody for all your help. It's far from perfect but i've learnt a lot for next time. I also have a stack of wood in the corner of my room for no.2


























Oh, and I need to make a cavity cover, ha. because I wanted the action so low, the bridge actually protrudes out of the guitar a tiny bit. I could put the cover on, but I know it's not flush..


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## Jim666 (Jan 3, 2015)

Ha, I'd cut the cover so the parts that need to can protrude. Sort of like a blower sticking out of a cars hood...

Looks awesome, great job.


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## pettymusic (Jan 4, 2015)

It looks really good! You should be proud of it! 

Are you happy with the sound and feel of it?

I've been working on my scarf joint for 3 weeks now and its kicking my arse! 

Can't wait to see what you do next. Definitely keep it up though and thanks for posting!


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## superash (Jan 4, 2015)

Looks really amazing.
Great job for a first build!


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## dankarghh (Jan 5, 2015)

pettymusic said:


> It looks really good! You should be proud of it!
> 
> Are you happy with the sound and feel of it?
> 
> ...



THanks for all the kind words guys. I was just checking out your neck thread. You'll be glad you didn't use scrap/pine for your first shot. Mine actually plays really nice. You get the benefit of shaping it exactly how you like it.

The guitar sounds great, I did a comparison with my horizon w/aftermaths and its at least on par.


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## Pikka Bird (Jan 5, 2015)

^Do you have any sound clips or something? 

I think this turned out pretty great, to my eye. Of course there are a few spots here and there that can be improved on your next, but for a first build (and a rather ambitious one at that) this is way beyond sufficient.


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## mike24 (Jan 9, 2015)

Really impressed with the colour blue, never considered it before, but hell yeah.
Plus your lacquer glossed up pretty sweet, hope my 1st build looks and plays like yo say 
\m/


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## TauSigmaNova (Jan 9, 2015)

That's really nicely done. Great work man.


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## dankarghh (Jan 10, 2015)

Recording a quick demo for a sound test for you guys right now.

It's a little uncomfortable on the first fret I've discovered, I'm really not sure why?


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## ChAoZ (Jan 10, 2015)

dankarghh said:


> Recording a quick demo for a sound test for you guys right now.
> 
> It's a little uncomfortable on the first fret I've discovered, I'm really not sure why?



Stunning build ,love blue quilted Maple
Nut a little too high maybe ?


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## dankarghh (Jan 10, 2015)

That could be it man. i've been too lazy to unstring etc and too distracted by my new build.

Anywho, here's a little clip of the guitar in action, I 'mixed' it very quickly so don't be too cruel  I also spent the morning destroying my router so my ears aren't exactly fresh..

https://copy.com/4XDbYnhZXeE32mW8


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (Jan 10, 2015)

dankarghh said:


> - words - ... I also spent the morning destroying my router so my ears aren't exactly fresh..
> 
> https://copy.com/4XDbYnhZXeE32mW8




Check yourself before you wreck yourself... Hearing damage is permanent and just gets worse with every bit of excessive sound exposure. I always use hearing protection when running power tools. 

But that aside its a great looking build. Certainly better than my first build, probably better than my second build too.


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## dimitrio (Jan 11, 2015)

Very nice built! btw, what bridge is that?


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## Hywel (Jan 11, 2015)

dankarghh said:


> That could be it man. i've been too lazy to unstring etc and too distracted by my new build.
> 
> Anywho, here's a little clip of the guitar in action, I 'mixed' it very quickly so don't be too cruel  I also spent the morning destroying my router so my ears aren't exactly fresh..
> 
> https://copy.com/4XDbYnhZXeE32mW8



Sounds great to me! Looks like a great build, can't wait to see what you make next


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## pettymusic (Jan 11, 2015)

dankarghh said:


> That could be it man. i've been too lazy to unstring etc and too distracted by my new build.
> 
> Anywho, here's a little clip of the guitar in action, I 'mixed' it very quickly so don't be too cruel  I also spent the morning destroying my router so my ears aren't exactly fresh..
> 
> https://copy.com/4XDbYnhZXeE32mW8



Freakin' sweet bro! 

Great tone and great playing! 

Save your ears though. We need our ears to play guitar well. (I'm talking to myself here too.) I need to get a pair of earplugs out in my garage. I am to the point now where I wear earplugs at band practice so, I don't know why I haven't when using the router. 

Looking forward to seeing what you do next!


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## Steinmetzify (May 19, 2015)

Dude this came out so sick. I love blue guitars and this is fantastic. Forgot about this one until I got into your 2nd build thread; glad it was mentioned and I could come back and see it done. Fantastic job!


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