# Whole octave lower what guage?!



## Soubi7string (Jul 6, 2010)

Hey guys I was wondering what set of guage strings would best suit a bass that is going a whole octave lower of E?
Like eadg to an octave lower eadg


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## MaxOfMetal (Jul 6, 2010)

Might want to talk to the folks here: Circle K Strings - Circle K Strings


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## josh pelican (Jul 6, 2010)

Also talk to Garry Goodman (Octave 4 Plus).


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## TemjinStrife (Jul 6, 2010)

What are you planning on using for a rig to amplify this?


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## Soubi7string (Jul 6, 2010)

Iunno about the rig I'm looking into it any suggestions?


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## josh pelican (Jul 6, 2010)

I suggest a miracle.

Six of these (Phil Jones 16H):






Phil Jones makes some amazing cabinets. This one has a 12 foot long, rear-folded horn, it can reproduce any fundamental (even F#) with ease and finesse. Sixteen 5" Piranha drivers deliver force equal to the cone area of a 4 x 10 or 2 x 15 cabinet but with the combined motor strength equal to the best 8 x 10 enclosure. Dynamics, clarity and grunt that are beyond belief.

Or a sweet Accugroove setup. Look into the Whappo cabinets (particularly Whappo Grande). This shit will get pricey, but well worth it.

Whappo Grande:





For the record, that's a 21" sub. It's designed to let that F# ring out loud and clear.


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## MaxOfMetal (Jul 6, 2010)

Soubi7string said:


> Iunno about the rig I'm looking into it any suggestions?



Something digital (such as a Bass POD), through a high wattage solid state power amp, and then out through a well balanced speaker array.


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## signalgrey (Jul 6, 2010)

good luck sir that is going to be unarticulate fart town.
keep in mind your guitar is gonna need some adjustment to make the strings work. neck bridge and nut.


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## josh pelican (Jul 6, 2010)

The strings will be pretty close together since they'll be so thick.


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## Raoul Duke (Jul 6, 2010)

A guy I know tunes this way and has a .185 as his lowest string on his Warwick Big Buck 6 string

Sounds pretty good


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## troyguitar (Jul 6, 2010)

For something relatively cheap and off the shelf, try these:

Warwick Black Label Stainless Steel Dark Lord, .085 - .175, 40250


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## Soubi7string (Jul 7, 2010)

MaxOfMetal said:


> Something digital (such as a Bass POD), through a high wattage solid state power amp, and then out through a well balanced speaker array.



Basically let the pod carry the load and use the amp head as a ways and means for volume and a weee bit extra tweaking? Think that would work? Or would playing a bass pod through a pa system work?


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## Variant (Jul 8, 2010)

^
You can indeed go direct with a bass. It's quite common actually. I'd say run your modeler in parallel with the D.I. and have even more sonic flexibility.  The biggest drawback of that is, of course, you're at the mercy of the P.A. system wherever you play. Some venues who are used to playing, say, electronic music with low sub-frequencies will probably work dandy with your E0... some hole-in-the-wall rock joints are probably going to make it at the least, vanish somewhat... at the worst, wash out and sound like turd. 

Having your own reinforcement, like the AccuGroove stuff in combination with the house might be your best bet. Run a split to that rig and to the house, and high pass the house mix if their system chokes on the bottom. If you really got some money, I'd say bookend the stage with a couple of these babies and send everyone to recap their fillings after the show: 





4 x 18 w/ 8hz floor.


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## josh pelican (Jul 8, 2010)

That will also work.

I recommend calling Emperor Cabinets to get some custom cabinets, too. They will build you pretty anything. I saw a custom 4x15 that looked amazing as hell. You may be able to find that old Carvin 18" speaker for pretty cheap.


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## knuckle_head (Jul 8, 2010)

For E tuning I suggest a .182 or .190 set.

If your bass has through body bridge mine are not the right strings. Mine require some sort of top loading hardware.

Very recently a guy did this with a Thunderbird bass with good results - long-ish TalkBass thread

You really don't need a specialized rig - one that goes closest to 40 Hz will serve you best.

If the strings are right and you don't over-EQ it will not be muddy


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## TemjinStrife (Jul 8, 2010)

Big speaker =/= deep sound.

Big speaker = small dispersion and lots of displacement. Just don't expect a lot of volume at those ultra-low frequencies... even the most specialized of cabs either trade off efficiency for the ability to go deep or the ability to go deep for efficiency (volume.)


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## Haunted (Jul 9, 2010)

I'm thinking about going 190 set or 200 because the B is a 150 so I need to tune it to G#1 sometimes
It's A 6 string bass 35" scale bass and I have no use for a higher string so I'm going for a Low F1/Drop G#1/Bb standard 5 string Tuning that will mesh up well with my 7 and 8 string tunes


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## knuckle_head (Jul 9, 2010)

Haunted said:


> I'm thinking about going 190 set or 200 because the B is a 150 so I need to tune it to G#1 sometimes
> It's A 6 string bass 35" scale bass and I have no use for a higher string so I'm going for a Low F1/Drop G#1/Bb standard 5 string Tuning that will mesh up well with my 7 and 8 string tunes



Favor.....

Spell out the tuning of all 6 strings. I am away from the cockpit but I can ballpark the gauges if you want.


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## Haunted (Jul 9, 2010)

low to high - F1, Bb1, Eb2, Ab2, Db3, F#3 
I plan to occasionally tune the B flat string a whole step down to G#1 
I figured a 142 or 150 will do the job, but I'm a Bass string gauge noob 

I appreciate your help man, saw your site - that 39.55 bass is a monster


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## Durero (Jul 9, 2010)

Haunted said:


> low to high - F1, Bb1, Eb2, Ab2, Db3, F#3
> I plan to occasionally tune the B flat string a whole step down to G#1
> I figured a 142 or 150 will do the job, but I'm a Bass string gauge noob
> 
> I appreciate your help man, saw your site - that 39.55 bass is a monster



I'd guess that you mean F0, Bb0, Eb1, Ab1, Db2, F#2

or at least that's what the octave numbers would be if you're using Scientific pitch notation which Skip (knucklehead) uses on his Circle K site.


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## MTech (Jul 9, 2010)

You could always get like Yves Carbonne, he's using a LaBella Super Step that's over 200 gauge.  They have one at the factory and not only is it heavy, but I'm quite sure you could beat somebody with it in a self-defense situation


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## Haunted (Jul 9, 2010)

I guess, I used the numbers from guitar pro
I meant anyway, an octave below an 8 string guitar's low F (a fourth below a standard bass low B flat)
the guitar pro indicates that there is a lower F (F0) than what I'm going to tune to
I'm confused...


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## Durero (Jul 9, 2010)

Yeah Guitar Pro has the octave numbers off by one which is likely a notation & transposition issue.

When you write the standard-tuned low E string in bass clef (E on the first ledger line below the staff) that's E2, but when you play that note on a bass E1 comes out - because bass transposes down 1 octave.

So when you're talking about the actual notes you're hearing, E1 is your standard low E string but E2 is the notation for that note for bass players - where it is always assumed that the sounding note will be one octave lower.

Does that help?


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## Haunted (Jul 9, 2010)

loud and clear! thanks Durero! 

anyway, I need to them gauges as I will be ordering from circle K next week
and I'm pretty exited about this

sorry to hijack the thread, but I stay on topic


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## Konfyouzd (Jul 9, 2010)

Ppl just can't go low enough, can they?


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## Necris (Jul 9, 2010)

Hahaha, I wanted the low C# below F#0 before i decided I'd never use it.


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## Konfyouzd (Jul 9, 2010)

damn...


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## josh pelican (Jul 9, 2010)

Here's a question for the original poster, what bass are you using? What type of bridge? Depending on the type of bridge you have, you might not have to do any modification (aside from filing the nut a little).

What sort of tension do you like? Do you like loose strings? or do you want the strings to be tight. If you like them loose, you could aim for .182 (but I would go for something a little thicker). If you want them tight like your regular EADG, I'd go for a .195 or .200.

I've never personally used Circle K strings, but have heard good things and talked to the dude (knuckle_head) a few times when I was getting my six string set up for F#. I highly recommend ordering from there because their service does not seem to disappoint. You will end up with the correct strings because he will certainly let you know if it will be too floppy or not.

Matt (of MORS) did this with his Epiphone Thunderbird. He opted for the .182 E because he likes looser strings. His didn't sound too bad, mind you he has a more powerful rig than the majority of this board. He is running 600 tube watts into five or six cabinets. This was his setup at one point:





I know his rig is a bit different know, but I recall him saying something about not needing fancy amplification or 2,000 watt amps, you just need the right strings. Sure, his rig is powerful as fuck, but think about how old his stuff is. I don't think ANY of it is even in production. You don't need to go out and buy the biggest, baddest amp (although, I'm not going to stop you or myself from doing so).

I will hunt down a video and pictures. I know there's a four page thread on TalkBass. It will give you a rough idea of what it sounds like (through a video camera).

EDIT: Also, the Circle K strings are fairly tapered at the end. I forget the exact size, but I know it's more than 1.5". I will find that, too, if no one beats me to it.


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## josh pelican (Jul 9, 2010)

Okay, the video didn't take me long:


... and pictures:


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## knuckle_head (Jul 14, 2010)

Haunted said:


> low to high - F1, Bb1, Eb2, Ab2, Db3, F#3
> I plan to occasionally tune the B flat string a whole step down to G#1
> I figured a 142 or 150 will do the job, but I'm a Bass string gauge noob
> 
> I appreciate your help man, saw your site - that 39.55 bass is a monster



At F the .200 will have good tension and detuning the Bb to G# is a reasonable switch - still leaves a 9 pound difference between the two, but compromise must be addressed.

Look at the .200 balanced set. This might be tight on a 35" scale - drop down to .190 if that's where you are.


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## Soubi7string (Jul 26, 2010)

I'm still trying tofind out about this whole amp ordeal
will a regular bass amp just die if I trythis or what?


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## josh pelican (Aug 3, 2010)

Soubi7string said:


> I'm still trying tofind out about this whole amp ordeal
> will a regular bass amp just die if I trythis or what?


 
I apologize for not seeing this a while back, but what amp are you using? A "regular bass amp" doesn't quite narrow it down for people like me. To me, a regular bass amp is a full stack.


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## Soubi7string (Aug 3, 2010)

Well im picking up a sunn 2x15 and I'm still deciding on whether to get the peavey 450 tour amphead or the line 6 hd400 series
That's "normal" to me lol


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## knuckle_head (Aug 4, 2010)

A regular rig will handle it fine


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## josh pelican (Aug 4, 2010)

That should work fine. On most forums, people will definitely argue with you saying there's no way in hell it would work. If you want more, I won't stop you (as mentioned previously).


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## Soubi7string (Aug 5, 2010)

scratch that Sunn 2x15
I'm gonna get an 8x10 rig with a peavey 700 tour series.Think that'll handle it?


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## Haunted (Aug 5, 2010)

OH it works....I just got my bass professionally set up to F with circle k's .190 set
really dig the strings, super flexible, I'll shoot some pics for ya when I have the time


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## signalgrey (Aug 5, 2010)

signalgrey said:


> good luck sir that is going to be unarticulate fart town.
> keep in mind your guitar is gonna need some adjustment to make the strings work. neck bridge and nut.




To the genius neg repping me about low octaves. I gave advice about a situation, there was no sarcasm, i even said "good luck" as you are gonna have a lot of work to do, to accommodate such low frequencies. If you dont agree with my opinion...fine..your call. But please dont be a baby about it k?


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## knuckle_head (Aug 5, 2010)

signalgrey said:


> good luck sir that is going to be unarticulate fart town.
> keep in mind your guitar is gonna need some adjustment to make the strings work. neck bridge and nut.





signalgrey said:


> To the genius neg repping me about low octaves. I gave advice about a situation, there was no sarcasm, i even said "good luck" as you are gonna have a lot of work to do, to accommodate such low frequencies. If you dont agree with my opinion...fine..your call. But please dont be a baby about it k?



No notion who negative repped you - and I've gotten the same thing from some so I feel you on this - but I disagree with the characterization that it will be 'inarticulate fart town'

Good strings at appropriate tension will provide quite good note definition. With frequencies this low the player ought to forsake speed as it makes these notes more impactful, but that is purely my opinion.

Any bass that has a shift in string gauging is faced with nut, neck and bridge adjustment.


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## Crucified (Aug 5, 2010)

Soubi7string said:


> Hey guys I was wondering what set of guage strings would best suit a bass that is going a whole octave lower of E?
> Like eadg to an octave lower eadg



what are you trying to accomplish at this point? are you trying to keep up with a baritone guitarist? do you want the really low to rattle some skulls? a regular tuned bass at E is still lower than a baritone guitar at E a whole octave down.


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## josh pelican (Aug 5, 2010)

Soubi7string said:


> scratch that Sunn 2x15
> I'm gonna get an 8x10 rig with a peavey 700 tour series.Think that'll handle it?


 
Man, go for that Sunn 215 and find a used 610 to pair it with. Those combos are always earth rattling.


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## vampiregenocide (Aug 5, 2010)

The funny thing is about those solo bass players, is they rarely ever touch those low notes. They just tap on the high ones and occassionally the lows but even then you can barely hear them. Bit of a waste tbh. I think they work best in a band setting, where although the note definition is not all that, they beef out the sound more. Add presence.


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## Soubi7string (Aug 5, 2010)

josh pelican said:


> Man, go for that Sunn 215 and find a used 610 to pair it with. Those combos are always earth rattling.



Well I looked at the sunn cab and it would have shat bricks tryin to pump the 600 watt head I have on layaway,which is a Carvin r600(I've heard mixed things but I like it so stfu lol jk still like it though) now I'm thinkin about an 8-10 or a normal 4-10 or just a 2-10 pr 2-15 anyone care to tell me what's the difference between them?


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## josh pelican (Aug 5, 2010)

Soubi7string said:


> Well I looked at the sunn cab and it would have shat bricks tryin to pump the 600 watt head I have on layaway,which is a Carvin r600(I've heard mixed things but I like it so stfu lol jk still like it though) now I'm thinkin about an 8-10 or a normal 4-10 or just a 2-10 pr 2-15 anyone care to tell me what's the difference between them?


 
Well, there are going to many differences between all of them. It really depends on the brand and model number. There are some 210 cabs that are better than other 410 cabs. There are 610 cabinets that could blow a lot 810 cabs away.

Do you have any particular cabinets in mind?


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## Soubi7string (Aug 5, 2010)

I really digg Peavey,Ampeg,and Mark Bass
any suggestions on those?


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## knuckle_head (Aug 6, 2010)

Check out the PN-410HLF - in fact even a used 410 HLF would handle the lows well. One of the best Ampeg has made.


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## signalgrey (Aug 6, 2010)

knuckle_head said:


> No notion who negative repped you - and I've gotten the same thing from some so I feel you on this - but I disagree with the characterization that it will be 'inarticulate fart town'
> 
> Good strings at appropriate tension will provide quite good note definition. With frequencies this low the player ought to forsake speed as it makes these notes more impactful, but that is purely my opinion.
> 
> Any bass that has a shift in string gauging is faced with nut, neck and bridge adjustment.



I suppose with the right set up it would work, but my experience with those tunings and frequencies were more hair pulling frustration episodes. thank you for your articulate and mature response


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## signalgrey (Aug 6, 2010)

vampiregenocide said:


> The funny thing is about those solo bass players, is they rarely ever touch those low notes. They just tap on the high ones and occassionally the lows but even then you can barely hear them. Bit of a waste tbh. I think they work best in a band setting, where although the note definition is not all that, they beef out the sound more. Add presence.




this^ so much.

i have yet to really see someone using the uber low strings, the videos i've seen are all touch/tap style , which sound awesome, but never the use of those strings the size of my wrist. hahah but when i say stuff like this i get bitchy comments about how "people use it so you're wrong" sigh...


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## Soubi7string (Aug 6, 2010)

knuckle_head said:


> Check out the PN-410HLF - in fact even a used 410 HLF would handle the lows well. One of the best Ampeg has made.



Lemme guess it's about 5 bajillion dollars?


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## Soubi7string (Aug 6, 2010)

Ok putting aside what I like I need a damn cab 2-10 2-15 8-10 idc I need pretty much a cab that is affordable and able to take 600 watts


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## knuckle_head (Aug 6, 2010)

signalgrey said:


> this^ so much.
> 
> i have yet to really see someone using the uber low strings, the videos i've seen are all touch/tap style , which sound awesome, but never the use of those strings the size of my wrist. hahah but when i say stuff like this i get bitchy comments about how "people use it so you're wrong" sigh...



There are a few reasons for this. The first subcontra string sets were designed around a guy who really prefers light gauges and so the original F# and C# strings need to be babied as they flop mercilessly if played with any kind of standard technique. 

Danza, I think, is the first to take a more metal approach to subcontra.

As for your cab situation - a 410HLF can be got used for $400 or so and has the best low end response of ANY Ampeg cab. That includes any of their 2x10 or 8x10 cabs.

Acme is less expensive and will do you well on bottom; Acme Low B4


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## josh pelican (Aug 6, 2010)

Listen to knuckle_head. He knows what's up.

I saw a guy with a pretty serious Acme rig. He had FOUR Acme Low B2 cabinets. A hell of a lot easier to move than most rigs, can handle 1,400-2,000 watts, and really lets you hear the fundamentals of a low B. A lot of reviewers say Acme cabs sound like 18" speakers because they're so punchy.


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## josh pelican (Aug 6, 2010)

... Now I want Acme cabs. I was going to get a Bergantino 610/215 rig, but now the Acmes are so tempting.

Although I could co for both, couldn't I? Who said a man couldn't have multiple rigs? A woman? What do they know? They have multiple dish clothes.


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## Soubi7string (Aug 6, 2010)

Damn son! Those cabs are a shit ton of cash ;-;


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## josh pelican (Aug 6, 2010)

Soubi7string said:


> Damn son! Those cabs are a shit ton of cash ;-;


 
How much are you looking to pay? I forget if you mentioned price range or not.


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## Soubi7string (Aug 6, 2010)

lets put it like this
the highest paycheck I've seen EVER is 497$ the lowest is 233$
sooo somewhere around there
Idgf as long as its loud and gets the sound out there and doesn't sound like muffled shit


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## TemjinStrife (Aug 6, 2010)

Soubi7string said:


> lets put it like this
> the highest paycheck I've seen EVER is 497$ the lowest is 233$
> sooo somewhere around there
> Idgf as long as its loud and gets the sound out there and doesn't sound like muffled shit



For those frequencies, all of the above = expensive.


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## Soubi7string (Aug 6, 2010)

.........................shit


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## Soubi7string (Aug 6, 2010)

well if its like 600$ or lower I can do
as long as it has a speaker and a place to plug in so I can hear and everyone else can


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## josh pelican (Aug 7, 2010)

Both the Ampeg and Acme cabinets can be found for under $600.


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## Soubi7string (Aug 7, 2010)

Can I order through GC? Cause layaway is my only option really


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## CrushingAnvil (Aug 8, 2010)

.400?


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## knuckle_head (Aug 8, 2010)

CrushingAnvil said:


> .400?



Half that - for realz. I make 'em. And a B string to go under it too.


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## josh pelican (Aug 29, 2010)

Just so everyone in this thread is aware, both Dennis (Beneath the Massacre) and Yannick (Ion Dissonance) were using a single Ampeg B410 HLF (I remember the opening at the bottom).

Yannick is tuned low like the guitarists, so I think that answers the question of what cabinet anyone should have.


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## knuckle_head (Aug 29, 2010)

Another quick suggestion - take a listen to Yves Carbonne's last CD. The lives on the low B and E on that disc. It's awesome even with ear buds.


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## Disco Volante (Aug 30, 2010)

signalgrey said:


> good luck sir that is going to be unarticulate fart town.
> keep in mind your guitar is gonna need some adjustment to make the strings work. neck bridge and nut.



+1

IMO it's going to sound like shit man. I'm sorry but that's just the way I see it in my 10 year experience as a bassist. It works well for guitars up there in the treble clef, but not so much for the bass clef range. Additionally amplifying such a thing is going to require far more than any average setup can handle in a band/live situation.


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## rectifryer (Aug 30, 2010)

No offense but do you actually have any experience with a properly setup bass and amp for this? 

There are alot of guys on here that play way lower and it comes out nice providing everything is in order. 

Trying to play that low on a normal bass amp is like trying to play your bass through a guitar amp. Youre right, it takes a completely different setup, but that can be said about anything.


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## josh pelican (Aug 31, 2010)

Disco, I think he'll be able to pull it off just fine. I've seen it pulled off many times, and I have done it myself.

I played many shows with a six-string setup for F#. My strings were tight and it sounded fine. It was slightly muddy, but what do you expect from notes that low? Trust me, it was still punchy. I recieved many, many compliments on it.

Ron from Bongripper plays in F and his bass sounds even better than mine did. Jaquo XIII has a subcontra bass tuned C#/F#/B/E and he plays as a solo musician with it.


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## Durero (Aug 31, 2010)

Just saw a great show this weekend with a beautiful clear low F# string on a regular Peavy 5-string bass.

It's good to use the nay-sayers comments as a guide for what to watch out for (excessive mud) but while they think of reasons not to try others are going ahead and doing it.


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## bostjan (Aug 31, 2010)

Back in the 90's, Warwick made a standard production Contrabass that sounded fine at E0. I do not know the string diameter, but I remember that the scale length was not far from standard. I would imagine that the low e strings were .180" or so, but take that with a heap of salt because my experience with the guitar was probably fifteen years ago.

Most intermediate and high-end bass amps should handle a 20 Hz E0, but many speakers will sound a little wonky trying to push the fundamental tone out.


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## Lon (Aug 31, 2010)

just cut off the fundamental with a eq, even on every album production theres nothing below 30hz because to reproduce it is just possible with huge amounts of cash and opportunity, downtuning is like on the guitars more a thing of timbre. if you can hear the first overtone octave it will still blow your face away

edit: i tuned a 5 string warwick with a .135 to G for funz and lulz through a ampeg svt fullstack (custom 410 + glockenklang 15), keep in mind this was all mid to highend equipment and it sounded really nice, just incredible deep...


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## bostjan (Sep 1, 2010)

Lon said:


> just cut off the fundamental with a eq, even on every album production theres nothing below 30hz because to reproduce it is just possible with huge amounts of cash and opportunity, downtuning is like on the guitars more a thing of timbre. if you can hear the first overtone octave it will still blow your face away
> 
> edit: i tuned a 5 string warwick with a .135 to G for funz and lulz through a ampeg svt fullstack (custom 410 + glockenklang 15), keep in mind this was all mid to highend equipment and it sounded really nice, just incredible deep...



Great point. If your ears do not hear the fundamental, but do hear the first and second overtones, your brain will fill in the gaps anyway, and it is almost the same as if you had heard the actual fundamental. Maybe the cheapest way to do it is to get a bunch of mid-priced equipment and run the bass through a decent EQ to eliminate anything that the equipment will distort.

With Khereb, we had a song that the bassist played with a drop-G (24.5 Hz) in it and it sounded fine to me through a cheap Behringer amp with a 4x10" cab. Of course, when things get that low, every semitone provides more challenges to the equipment than the last.


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## knuckle_head (Sep 1, 2010)

Lon said:


> just cut off the fundamental with a eq, even on every album production theres nothing below 30hz because to reproduce it is just possible with huge amounts of cash and opportunity, downtuning is like on the guitars more a thing of timbre. if you can hear the first overtone octave it will still blow your face away



This is fine live. It isn't necessary recorded - in fact the impediments all but disappear on the recording side. Sample and bit rates only serve to enhance high and very high frequencies, where the low end has always been adequately served from the beginning. 

How many cars and households have subwoofers now? Consumer playback of subcontra work is ripe for being taken advantage of.

And make no mistake - it's a timbre thing for bass too.


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## Soubi7string (Sep 1, 2010)

I got me my Carvin R600 with the 1x15 cab.it isn't anything special but can it push the low end?


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## knuckle_head (Sep 2, 2010)

Decent power - 500 to 600 watts depending on the load of the cab - good start.


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## josh pelican (Sep 2, 2010)

A 15" will pump so low end, but when you get a chance add another cab (4x10) and you'll be laughing.


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## Lon (Sep 2, 2010)

the 15 is a pretty bad example for cab size vs membrane size, but i have a 15" too so i'd better shut up 

nah for the realz...

for a usable subcontra setup i'd recommend a very strong and "polishing" amplifier and 2x410 with a good low end response (the mentioned ampeg 410hlf should be good for this or a custom build cab).

as i amp i have experience with a bit of stuff and i can highly recommend a simple ampeg SVT with 300w tubes. then compress the fuck out of it to get rid of all the dynamics so your amp can deal with the enormous load (ebs multicomp ftw!) and add a little distortion to make the overtones more audible so you don't loose definition in the band mix. then scoop the mids so you do not clash with the guitars and you fill the bottom below and be audible over the guitars (american me did this wonderfully on their last record to have a totally awesome still audible but not constantly going-on-my-nerves by competing with the guitar sound, listen to this once http://vimeo.com/3960326 so you know what i mean)

CAUTION: i only tested this recommended setup down to G0 (24,hz i think?) and not all the way through to E0 but with G0 it sounded fine


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## WestonSuperMaim (Sep 2, 2010)

Lon said:


> i tuned a 5 string warwick with a .135 to G for funz and lulz through a ampeg svt fullstack (custom 410 + glockenklang 15), keep in mind this was all mid to highend equipment and it sounded really nice, just incredible deep...



Yeah... I tuned my super-cheap 5-string *Harley Benton* to G to do a cover of Meshuggah's Stengah (4th song on my page here Weston Super Maim on MySpace Music). It sounds pretty evil.


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