# The Crazy Maple Burl Baritone Build Thread (Dedicated to BlackMastodon)



## Purelojik (Jun 15, 2013)

alright guys this one might take some time cause application season is coming up for residencies so i'll do as much as i can and then continue after. 

I recently found a local hardwood dealer here with some amazing pieces and prices. I got a nice burl maple slab which an employee cut down the middle for me. i'll be getting two tops outta this one both .75in thick.

after carvin the redwood topped one whick only was .4 thick, this should look a lot nicer.
 
So heres the tentative specs

Body: Sapele/Carved Burl maple top
Neck : Tiger Rosewood
Fretboard : Pau Ferro
Bridge: Hipshot 6
Tuners: Sperzel or hipshot
Brass side dots
Finish: oil and wax

im not filling a damn thing on this burl top. its gonna be rustic as F*ck

So feel free to comment and suggest anything. I learned everything from this forum right here. 

without further ado here's the pic dump of the progress thus far.






















After some mineral spirits



























































































so now you are thoroughly caught up to where i am right now. Copious and frequently excessive amounts of pictures will be sure to follow.


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## Alcmiller (Jun 15, 2013)

Looking extremely promising!


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## JEngelking (Jun 15, 2013)

I dig the shape, and that's a stunning top! Following this one for sure.


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## jarnozz (Jun 15, 2013)

God, I love that shape! Mind if I use that on a future build?


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## Purelojik (Jun 15, 2013)

jarnozz said:


> God, I love that shape! Mind if I use that on a future build?



I don't mind if you use the shape. If you state you got it from me, Alexander Mylavarapu then it's all good. I know single-cuts are all derivations of the les Paul anyways. It took me a while to make a shape that was reminiscent of the original, yet had some originality. PM me and I can send you the PDF shape if you like to use it. I guess this will be sorta what strandberg does with his designs!


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## BlackMastodon (Jun 15, 2013)

A thread for me? You're too kind. 

Love that burl top, any plans to dye it or are you going the au natural way?


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## Purelojik (Jun 15, 2013)

BlackMastodon said:


> A thread for me? You're too kind.
> 
> Love that burl top, any plans to dye it or are you going the au natural way?



Yea you were right, i've beeen spending tooo much time on the luthier talk forums lol. I missed this place.

im gonna go natural for this one. Im gonna use good ol' Danish oil with some Japan Drier for the top and back. Its gonna pop with a nice amber hue. I would use Teak oil but it makes it waaay too amber/orangy/jersey shorey for my taste. 

then gonna go in and wax that baby. Its gonna show signs of serious wear over the years and its gonna be awesome.


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## 7 Strings of Hate (Jun 15, 2013)

Beautiful wood choice and great work man!


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## Danukenator (Jun 15, 2013)

Great wood choice! Are you considering a stain for the top?


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## Purelojik (Jun 15, 2013)

Im leaving this one natural cause there are so many different natural shades and colors in this top. i did play around with a black dye. which i think was just too powerful of a dye. its that feibeing fretboard/leather dye.

anyhow here is how it looks stained with black dye. a few coats of teak oil and Behlens master gel as a top coat with some wax for fun. i was trying to re create the oiled look just with some urethane protection but it just ended up looking like more of a polyurethane finish overall. still looks great but i want rustic!!!

then again who knows i might change my mind last minute as far as finish goes. we'll see!!


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## skeels (Jun 15, 2013)

Burly goodness!

Are those lmii boards?


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## Watty (Jun 15, 2013)

Damn.


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## Purelojik (Jun 15, 2013)

skeels said:


> Burly goodness!
> 
> Are those lmii boards?



yup yup, saves me a ton of time and probable mishaps. so far its where i've always ordered my boards. i had them choose some darker and more interesting pau ferro's this time cause its awesome. They take an amazing polish when you reach about 600 grit. These are radiused 20" which is my favorite.


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## BlackMastodon (Jun 16, 2013)

If you do this one natural, consider staining the second guitar that uses the same top with the black? 'Cause that is just way too cool of a finish to not do I think. Definitely makes me want a burl top.


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## Purelojik (Jun 16, 2013)

BlackMastodon said:


> If you do this one natural, consider staining the second guitar that uses the same top with the black? 'Cause that is just way too cool of a finish to not do I think. Definitely makes me want a burl top.



definitely, i need to get proper wood dye/stain to do it. I wanted to do a tiger eye type thing but that'll require a buncha testing. i'll have enough scraps so i'll take my time. 

this guitar's name is Tiamat, the one thats gonna be dyed is Griever. cant wait till application time is over so i can work on a buncha these. cause once i start work, its gonna be a long while till i can do it again lol.


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## quoenusz (Jun 16, 2013)

OMG that top is amazing! Where did you get that?

I also like the shape!


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## the_heretic_divine (Jun 16, 2013)

I'm actually really digging the black dye!!


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## Purelojik (Jun 16, 2013)

quoenusz said:


> OMG that top is amazing! Where did you get that?
> 
> I also like the shape!



thanks buddy

i got it from a place in Santa Ana , california called Austin Hardwoods. Its about 15-20 min from where i am in newport. I hadnt heard of it until about two months ago and now its my go-to place. They have amazing prices too.

two bodies worth of sapele which is super tight grained and nice deep brown color ran me about 28-30 bucks. online the cheapest place was exotic woods which charged me 34 for a three piece sapele blank.

they also have a good amount of exotics as well. their tiger rosewood (i'd never heard of it before) is pretty nice, they have perfect blanks for necks. 
its my new toy store

the burl top i got for about 70 bucks, which is damn cheap after seeing the prices online for a good chunk of burl. now that its split down the middle, i've got two tops so super great bang for the buck.


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## Purelojik (Jun 16, 2013)

Ok guys Here are the two types of oils im debating between. 


Here's the Watco Teak Oil:






And here's the Watco Danish Oil:





Im leaning towards the danish oil because its not quite as Orange as the teak oil. Its also more neutral as ambering goes.

i'll upload some pics after they have been waxed.


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## HaMMerHeD (Jun 16, 2013)

I like the danish oil better. It's a smoother, creamier look, and I like that.


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## tommychains (Jun 17, 2013)

Beautiful top!

Please please PLEASE tell me they have a site for online orders.


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## Purelojik (Jun 17, 2013)

tommychains said:


> Beautiful top!
> 
> Please please PLEASE tell me they have a site for online orders.



well this is their website 

The guy/employee who was able to help me out and resaw that short board when no one else would was named Drew Shellenbarger. Super nice dude. im actually not sure if they do online orders but i guess it doesnt hurt to give it a shot.


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## HighPotency (Jun 17, 2013)

Holy crap. I opened this thread and:








tommychains, let us know what they say about online orders. That wood is beautiful and I would gladly order some right away.


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## Minoin (Jun 17, 2013)

Holy crap, beautiful wood dude!
And I like the Danish oil too


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## tommychains (Jun 23, 2013)

looked ll over the site, i don't see anything about ordering online 

great build so far though, hope to see the finished product.


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## lookslikemeband (Jun 24, 2013)

So how do you even out the glue joint for your scarf joint on the neck?

I know that japanese saw can leave it a little off line.....

Looks great....


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## Purelojik (Jun 24, 2013)

lookslikemeband said:


> So how do you even out the glue joint for your scarf joint on the neck?
> 
> I know that japanese saw can leave it a little off line.....
> 
> Looks great....



yea the japanese saw wanders , its mostly because im impatient and tend to not stay entirely perfectly straight. either way i'll just lay my hand belt sander down on the ground and make sure the surfaces are pretty smooth. then for the final bit i'll use my block plane and a sharpened blade. works pretty well. just takes a while.


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## lookslikemeband (Jun 24, 2013)

Purelojik said:


> yea the japanese saw wanders , its mostly because im impatient and tend to not stay entirely perfectly straight. either way i'll just lay my hand belt sander down on the ground and make sure the surfaces are pretty smooth. then for the final bit i'll use my block plane and a sharpened blade. works pretty well. just takes a while.




Cool man. Yeah... I am always looking for ways to do the scarf joint better.


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## Purelojik (Jun 26, 2013)

So i got these made...

these will add a nice touch to the headstocks. 
i've always wanted my own brand name headstock lol so i just used my initials.






These will be inlaid on the headstock in this position. Here's a rough pic of how i'td look






So stoked!


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## HighPotency (Jun 26, 2013)

That's a really cool idea!


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## User Name (Jun 26, 2013)

lookin sexy


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## Watty (Jun 26, 2013)

Now that is a tasteful logo, placement, size and all.


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## lookslikemeband (Jun 27, 2013)

I dig it. Very smart. With the overall shape you can route it out straight up with a 1/2" bit it looks like and get a good clean look


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## lawizeg (Jun 27, 2013)

All of these pics are amazing! Awesturck by the headstock logo placement, that is so cool. Never seen anything like it.


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## Purelojik (Jun 27, 2013)

thanks guys i got them made from stainless steel. i designed them on eMachine Shop and then got a quote from Pololu for laser cutting. they did a pretty good job and shipping was pretty fast.


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## lawizeg (Jun 27, 2013)

Also +1 for Hipshot. Love the look of those tuners.


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## Dommak89 (Jun 27, 2013)

Purelojik said:


> So i got these made...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah I didn't read anything and just looked at the pictures and I was like: AKM guitarworks? Never heard of them. Better check' em out.

Needless to say I didn't find anything on the web.
You got me, sir!


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## callankirk (Jun 28, 2013)

I don't know how I'm just now seeing this build, but...


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## patata (Jun 29, 2013)

Purelojik said:


>



Shit's wonderful.I wonder if it would look cooler with the tuners angled a bit though..


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## Purelojik (Jan 31, 2014)

Alright so i've been pondering bout pickups for a while now for this build while i head into my exam and figured it'd be really nice to have a set waiting for me. So i went to The Axe Palace's website and order a pair on a whim because i mean unless we test these things out personally we'll never really know. I've tried a ton of BKPs and love each and every one, especially my Supermassive p90. but i didnt wanna destroy the wallet because i also have to make the walnut guitar as well for my buddy. This one however, is ALL MINE

I loved JakePeriphery's demo of the Titan Bridge but never was to hot on the neck sound. Personally i enjoy a very different neck pickup compared to the bridge so i went for a Gravity Storm Neck. Originally i was entertaining the Illuminator, but i honestly wasnt feeling it. 

so here it is. Specs and all. Both are Raw nickel with black bolts/slugs whatever poles. 








Zimbloth if you're reading this, thanks for having a kickass shop for all my pickup needs!



Now to see how to go about getting hipshot to make me an unplated 6 string fixed bridge for this build. ideally i'd love a nice top loading one but hipshot just feels and looks so nice...


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## TylerRay (Jan 31, 2014)

Awesome single cut design! That shit rocks!


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## Purelojik (Feb 28, 2014)

Alright guys! time to defib this thread and get it going!

remember those pickups i ordered? well they just arrived at my door this afternoon.


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## CaptainLuckeyBeard (Feb 28, 2014)

Damn....everything about this thread is so classy and sharp. Can't wait to see these finished!!!


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## lookslikemeband (Feb 28, 2014)

YAY! Get this sucker goin!!


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## KBMW (Mar 1, 2014)

That little logo plate is very cool. Clean and tasteful.


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## lookslikemeband (Mar 1, 2014)

KBMW said:


> That little logo plate is very cool. Clean and tasteful.




I agree. I think it's WAY cool!


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## Purelojik (Mar 1, 2014)

im pretty excited for this build because its going to be the twin of my personal redwood one, except solid and with humbuckers. its going to have the same neck wood as the walnut guitar in the other thread as well as a darker pau ferro board.


the logo picture i put up there is the raw form. after taking some 1500 grit sandpaper to it it REALLY shines up beautifully. i did that with the walnut one too and am very happy with the results!


















i think i might actually use the same sandwiched veneer thing on this headstock as well. the meat of it will be the scarf jointed monterillo/tiger rosewood, and the veneers will be burl maple top and what ever that dark flamed veneer for the back if i can swing that. Theres so many to choose from that sample pack i got...




theres that walnut burl veneer i used for the last headstock!

and suggestions on what i should use?


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## Forrest_H (Mar 4, 2014)

Dear lord this is beautiful. I love it man.


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## 4Eyes (Mar 4, 2014)

buuuuutifuuuul


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## Purelojik (Mar 7, 2014)

Finally started carving this beast. This maple is tough shit. I also received some indian rosewood fingerboards, these are thick boards from LMII. I also ordered frets from jescar since i've heard good things. I wanna try out things and see what works best. i also ordered a 16 and 20 in radius block from lmii and they are HUGE. 

i've also started the roasted maple build as well, but i might just keep that build on the blog. but we'll see. 


























the board on the left is the one for this burl maple build


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## Eliguy666 (Mar 7, 2014)

I feel like the best headstock piece would be the curly one second from the left, as it would match the top pretty well.


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## Purelojik (Mar 7, 2014)

Eliguy666 said:


> I feel like the best headstock piece would be the curly one second from the left, as it would match the top pretty well.



i totally agree dude


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## jtm45 (Mar 8, 2014)

I was considering buying a couple of those microplane raspy things the other day but i wasn't sure which one/s to get that would be best suited to luthiery. Do you have others as well as that one or do you find that that one covers all bases ?
I've been going back and fore between those and the Iwasaki file rasp type. I'm beginning to think it's probably worth trying both and seeing which do the job better for me. It probably wouldn't hurt to have a few of each in time.


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## vansinn (Mar 8, 2014)

Can't comment on anything looking better than others - it's all so neat 
I love the looks of those pickup covers, very classy.. (gets really boring with so many in black plastic).


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## Purelojik (Mar 8, 2014)

jtm45 said:


> I was considering buying a couple of those microplane raspy things the other day but i wasn't sure which one/s to get that would be best suited to luthiery. Do you have others as well as that one or do you find that that one covers all bases ?
> I've been going back and fore between those and the Iwasaki file rasp type. I'm beginning to think it's probably worth trying both and seeing which do the job better for me. It probably wouldn't hurt to have a few of each in time.



i havent tried the iwasaki rasps but i hear they are wonderful, i think Knarbens oover at luthier talk uses em for his carves, i love my microplanes, i use the coarse files, i need to get the fine ones but honestly if you let the tool do the work and dont use any more pressure than necessary then you dont need to do much else except use a sander.


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## Purelojik (Mar 11, 2014)

Back to this build!

spent some time while watching top gear. I did my usual just lay a giant sheet down on the carpet and clamp to a chair routine lol


































MINERAL SPIRITS!





Part two is tomorrow where i carve the lip and smooth things out


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## jtm45 (Mar 11, 2014)

The microplane actually looks like it cuts pretty smoothly straight off. Will you have to fill the little voids in the burl maple with epoxy or something ?

Was that the Burma Top Gear special you were watching ? I watched that one on Sunday night too. I really like the special trip episodes they do. Part 2's on next week!


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## Eliguy666 (Mar 11, 2014)

I want a schoolbus dump-truck with Gt500 stripes after seeing that.

On topic, the mineral spirits work very well. They make the figuring much deeper without the annoying sheen of pure white that a lot of matte/satin finishes make.


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## Purelojik (Mar 11, 2014)

im leaving the voids and stuff as is. unless it affects the mounting of th bridge or the neck pocket, but im leaving this as natural as possible. its gonna wear so well, and thats what i want. 

i think the episode was with the 918 porsche or something and where they go around on bicycles trying to promote awareness about how dangerous bikes are lol. laughed my ass off. might have been a re run, not entirely sure

the mineral spirits are merely to show figure without raising the grain, as for a finish i think im gonna go with danish oil, i did some tests earlier in the thread/on my blog and i think that won out. teak oil makes this thing look like its a spray tan from the jersey shore. i was entertaining Behlens Master Gel but then i was like meh, forget polyurethane. another alternative might be Tru oil.

alternatively i had an idea of doing a kinda of gradient burst. i'd dilute black dye and basically concentrate it at the bottom and then fade it upward. i'd have to test it out to see if i could do it but imagine the last picture like that. Thoughts?


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## Eliguy666 (Mar 11, 2014)

The gradient burst might end up busy. I've never seen a good-looking burst finish on a burl.

Then again, if you do pull it off, new frontier and all that.


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## Purelojik (Mar 11, 2014)

Eliguy666 said:


> The gradient burst might end up busy. I've never seen a good-looking burst finish on a burl.
> 
> Then again, if you do pull it off, new frontier and all that.



THATS THE EPISODE!

yea i'll find an offcut at the parents house and some dye and everyone pray, cause in my head it could be sweet but we'll see.


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## Eliguy666 (Mar 11, 2014)

Sounds good to me.

That was last Sunday's, so you're just a week behind. I won't ask as to how you _legally_ obtained a new episode in the us .

Post some photos of the offcuts-burst if you can!


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## Purelojik (Mar 12, 2014)

part three continues tonight which should be it. Next i'll round the bottom.

then i'll move to the roasted maple until its caught up with this build. then i'll start making all the necks together. I definitely enjoy bodywork more than neck building.


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## got_tone (Mar 13, 2014)

I really enjoy this build(also your photos)!


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## nikolix (Mar 13, 2014)

This is like orgasm to my eyes. THese guitars look stunning. Let us know of further progress. I die to see what happens next.

Cheers


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## Purelojik (Mar 14, 2014)

got_tone said:


> I really enjoy this build(also your photos)!





nikolix said:


> This is like orgasm to my eyes. THese guitars look stunning. Let us know of further progress. I die to see what happens next.
> 
> Cheers



Hey thanks for the kind words guys. Really makes my day when i hear stuff like this. Lets me know im doing something right. 


OK so i finished the carve, i basically make a lip with the dremel sanding wheel and then smooth everything out with the dremel and a mouse detail sander using 80 grit.






























It'll be further smoothed with progressive grits. 

MINERAL SPIRITS!!!!



























man this particular sapele is super dark brown and rich. the great part is the chatoyance is amazing, from the darkness you'll see the golden highlights from the striped grain. man i love the natural beauty of wood. i'll round the backside, i've found this model doesnt need a tummy carve. i'll make templates for the cavity and cover. Then its time to get the roasted maple build up to speed.

now its time to make necks....not my favorite time at all. but what to do.


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## Legion (Mar 14, 2014)

Dude, this is ....ing ridiculous. You're one hell of a luthier.


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## BlackMastodon (Mar 14, 2014)

Hoooly balls that top. Great job on the carve, dude.


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## TylerRay (Mar 14, 2014)

Beautiful! Great wood choice! That carve top is excellent!


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## Purelojik (Mar 15, 2014)

Spent some time at the shop in downtown LA for a bit after work. I was able to round the bottoms of both the Burl Maple as well as the Roasted Maple top. I had a near tragedy though... while using the router table i must have came in at an acute angle or something with the upper horn and it just burst. I quickly just re did the curve of the upper horn on the bandsaw with the template attached and sanded it a bit and BAM back to business. its a tad shorter but it still looks damn good. and the great thing is i made two templates in the beginning incase something like this ever happens. This has never happened with my trim router and i usually hog much more wood off lol. maybe just user error combined with a dull bit

Im not sure on what the rules are for how many active builds you can have going on but i'll just keep it to two and include the occasional update for the roasted maple build here as well. 

here's how the burls sides are looking. 














And here's how the Roasted Maple build is doing. Check the blog for more pics too. FEAST YOUR EYES


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## lookslikemeband (Mar 15, 2014)

Sweet man. Couple of questions:

How are you planning to fill in the voids in the burl? CA, Poly, other??

What radius is that on the roundover??


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## Purelojik (Mar 15, 2014)

lookslikemeband said:


> Sweet man. Couple of questions:
> 
> How are you planning to fill in the voids in the burl? CA, Poly, other??
> 
> What radius is that on the roundover??



Im leaving the voids open and everything. just gonna finish as is with danish oil and wax. i might change and use tru oil but i havent decided. i like the look of the raw wood, i feel it makes it kinda unique. 

as far as the roundover , im not entirely sure, i use a 1/4 shank router, its the bosch colt so its the one that fits in that base. i'll measure it when im back at the apartment (im at the folks house)


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## Purelojik (Mar 21, 2014)

So i couldnt sleep last night so i decided to do this. i felt much better now that something was in clamps and ready to move to the next steps. 


















Jay Jillard suggested i use Titebond Original instead after seeing this picture on facebook so i think i'll go with that. He said TB3 creeps over time. Judging my the work he does, im not gonna think twice.


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## lookslikemeband (Mar 21, 2014)

How did you determine how long to make the head stock portion of the scarf joint??


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## Purelojik (Mar 21, 2014)

lookslikemeband said:


> How did you determine how long to make the head stock portion of the scarf joint??



made a post just for you buddy. 

"I&#8217;ve received a few questions regarding the way I started doing scarf joints. I adapted my method from watching other builders like Dylan from daemoness and Aaron from blackwater guitars. Basically you rough shape your head piece as a block and glue it on without marching the angle. I did this because when I used to cut the angle, it often times would slip down a bit. Which made things difficult because I had to plane the entire flat surface of the neck down. I don&#8217;t have proper tools to do that accurately. So in order to get the job done I had to account for my possible mistakes. So I don&#8217;t bother anymore lol. I glue it as is then plane it down using rasps and a hand plane. You can see it in my last walnut build. Worked better than anything I&#8217;ve done before. you can slide the head piece up or down depending on where abouts you want the nut to be. 

Make sure you make the rough cut way oversized. It&#8217;ll account for any shifts left right front and back. And make sure you make the piece a tad longer so you can glue it with some room. That&#8217;s about it. I use binding tape to hold it in place when I clamp because it&#8217;s strong as hell.



Hope this helps! "


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## lookslikemeband (Mar 21, 2014)

That rocks man... thank you.

Good info there!


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## Purelojik (Mar 22, 2014)

scarf's done with this one.

























gonna do the same for the roasted maple build as well then take both down to the shop for routing and profiling .


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## jtm45 (Mar 24, 2014)

Interesting way of doing the headstock scarfing! Once you've roughed the end bit off the glued scarf joint what do you use to get the scarf joint and neck all nice and perfectly flat ? A plane ?

I saw on your blog that you'd tried some of those Iwasaki wood files after. Will you be using them in the future or will you be sticking with the microplane rasps ?

I finally got around to buying a really nice Spiral Router bit to make sure i get nice clean edges when i template trim the body on my upcoming build. I think it's gonna' be very handy to use in a router table. It's one of those Whiteside Spiral upcut bits with the twin bearings on the end and a 2 inch cutting length so i can flush trim the bodies in one go without having to flip the body over. I can't wait to get started now but there's still quite a few bits and pieces i need to get before i can get going. At least i'm that little bit closer now though!


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## penguin_316 (Mar 24, 2014)

Holy scarf angle batman! What angle is that?


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## jtm45 (Mar 24, 2014)

I didn't really notice that but now you mention it it does look like quite a large angle. I'd guess around 18 degrees ?


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## penguin_316 (Mar 24, 2014)

That's Gibson neck angle territory and possibly dangerous to the everyday uncoordinated person. It's all good just don't drop it...


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## Purelojik (Mar 24, 2014)

jtm45 said:


> Interesting way of doing the headstock scarfing! Once you've roughed the end bit off the glued scarf joint what do you use to get the scarf joint and neck all nice and perfectly flat ? A plane ?
> 
> I saw on your blog that you'd tried some of those Iwasaki wood files after. Will you be using them in the future or will you be sticking with the microplane rasps ?
> 
> I finally got around to buying a really nice Spiral Router bit to make sure i get nice clean edges when i template trim the body on my upcoming build. I think it's gonna' be very handy to use in a router table. It's one of those Whiteside Spiral upcut bits with the twin bearings on the end and a 2 inch cutting length so i can flush trim the bodies in one go without having to flip the body over. I can't wait to get started now but there's still quite a few bits and pieces i need to get before i can get going. At least i'm that little bit closer now though!




yep i use a plane to get everything flat. sometimes i'll use a rasp with a flat edge and use that to get most of the surface flat. then i'll use a plane to get it nice and smooth. then a detail sander. 

yes i will use the iwasakis much much more. I use the microplanes to hog out and rough carve. then the med and fine iwasakis to lessen the time it takes for sanding. they are beautiful rasps. 


penguin_316 said:


> Holy scarf angle batman! What angle is that?



its roughly 15 or slightly under. im still trying out different ones, my last few were 14 and 13. the redwood one was 13 ish and i kinda want more of a string pull across the nut. 

we'll see how this goes. im about to make an update lol its kinda silly, i tried using a coping saw to do a scarf joint and then i got impatient.


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## lookslikemeband (Mar 24, 2014)

I know that Carvin did a ton of research into scarf joint strength, angle break, nut tensions; etc several years ago, and it was determined that 13 degrees is about as "optimal" as it gets.

That being said, I'm still working on perfecting a 10 degree (my lucky number) and a 14 degree (strong nut angle) joint....



YOUR build is fantastic. Can't wait to see a fretboard on top of that bad boy!!


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## Purelojik (Mar 24, 2014)

lookslikemeband said:


> I know that Carvin did a ton of research into scarf joint strength, angle break, nut tensions; etc several years ago, and it was determined that 13 degrees is about as "optimal" as it gets.
> 
> That being said, I'm still working on perfecting a 10 degree (my lucky number) and a 14 degree (strong nut angle) joint....
> 
> ...



Thanks for the kind words dude. means a lot to hear feedback from everyone. 

here's the update!

I learned that a coping saw works well for cutting a scarf, but maintain the same pace throughout Dont rush when you are this close to finishing the cut.i actually used a flat rasp to remove stock then cleaned it up with my smoothing plane. I glued this shortly afterwards.















"IM ALMOST THERE YAY! LETS GO FASTER"














just glued it up right now, gonna put a thin veneer on this one. I decided that this one will be for the burl maple build and the other will be for the roasted maple. im going to the folks place this weekend so i'll be able to get my sample pack of veneers so i can glue a nice one on top of this one and some for the back when the carving begins. 

so i learned a valuable lesson on being patient, didnt damage anything really, but im really trying to work on being neat and clean at most of the steps. Knarbens build really had me inspired to try to work cleaner.


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## TrashJuice (Mar 26, 2014)

Your shots have such dramatic lighting. Really enjoying this build.


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## Purelojik (Mar 27, 2014)

TrashJuice said:


> Your shots have such dramatic lighting. Really enjoying this build.



thanks bud. yea i have fun with the shots, actually its also just how i work. i have this bendy ikea led lamp that sits on my Left monitor so i use that for those shots and it looks all brooding and dramatic. lol


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## HaMMerHeD (Mar 27, 2014)

I use a 15 degree neck angle too. On basses, it doesn't look as extreme. Maybe because the headstocks are bigger?

Here's my gluing jig:

http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/.../014-Paradigm6/scarf_gluing_2_zps3ce6cb70.jpg

15 degrees. Doesn't look too sharp to me.

From the back:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd60/hardmark/guitarwork/010/matching_3_zps869ce5e7.jpg

From the front:
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd60/hardmark/guitarwork/010/matching_2_zpsd2ab31c0.jpg

Not terribly extreme. Maybe the curvy lines hide it. I dunno. But they fit in hardcases and I haven't had any breakage issues.


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## Purelojik (Mar 27, 2014)

HaMMerHeD said:


> I use a 15 degree neck angle too. On basses, it doesn't look as extreme. Maybe because the headstocks are bigger?
> 
> Here's my gluing jig:
> 
> ...



that hardcase thing is something i didnt consider. whats the max angle to hav efor a scarf to fit in a hardcase? i need to bring mine from my folks house to the apartment and test it out before i proceed. if it doesnt work, cause i think this angles closer to 16-17 since i just re-measured it, then i might need to re-do it, which isnt hard, its just extra work. i've done it before, you just cut a shallower angle and then clean up traces from the last glue up.

old gibsons were said to be around this angle so hopefully theres no problem.


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## HaMMerHeD (Mar 27, 2014)

Purelojik said:


> that hardcase thing is something i didnt consider. whats the max angle to hav efor a scarf to fit in a hardcase? i need to bring mine from my folks house to the apartment and test it out before i proceed. if it doesnt work, cause i think this angles closer to 16-17 since i just re-measured it, then i might need to re-do it, which isnt hard, its just extra work. i've done it before, you just cut a shallower angle and then clean up traces from the last glue up.
> 
> old gibsons were said to be around this angle so hopefully theres no problem.



I don't think it's so much as a max angle as much as it is just a maximum depth to which the headstock can plunge before it pushes against the floor of the case and lifts the whole thing up. Obviously that could compromise the protection offered by the case, and even cause it not to latch properly. I can't say I've ever heard anybody having that problem, so i don't think it is much of one. I suppose it'd depend on the specific case. It's just something that occurred to me to think about while I was designing my headstock. The 8-string bass version is...quite large, because it's a 5+3 head. Maybe 11 inches long or so. If I ever make it, I may knock it down to 13 degrees. Not sure.


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## XxJoshxX (Mar 27, 2014)

This looks like an ideal glue up jig.


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## joshuallen (Mar 28, 2014)

Interesting approach to the scarf joint. I don't think I'd use a coping saw to cut it. I mean, I would if I had to, but that's gotta be tiring even by hand tool standards. Ideally I'd use this: Bad Axe Tool Works - Roubo Beastmaster. But since I don't have one nor the money for one, I end up starting it with a back saw and finishing with a standard crosscut saw.

Love the detail work on the body contours. I haven't tried working with burl yet, because I assumed it would crumble to dust the moment I got my chisel anywhere near it.


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## Purelojik (Apr 2, 2014)

Went to downtown artist space again and Burris helped me make a template to route the truss rod channel of the burl maple neck. I got to use the new carbide bit made specifically for hot rod truss rods. Burris was amazingly helpful and made an acrylic template to serve as a guide for the fence on the router table.

I also chose a beautiful burl maple (it could also be ash) veneer from my sample pack. This pack was worth the money. I also cut out a matching one for the back portion to tidy the glue line up.

It makes me happy when I can leave something clamped overnight. Tomorrow I&#8217;ll roughly clean up the headstock, I&#8217;ll glue the fretboard then maybe thurs ill glue the back veneer. Next week it&#8217;s back to the shop for neck taper cutting as well as fretboard radiusing and fret installation using these new Jescar frets.










































yep thats my bathroom.. lol


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## charlessalvacion (Apr 2, 2014)

Holy shiznit. hehe..I love build threads.


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## BlackMastodon (Apr 2, 2014)

Looking great as always. Do you heat up the piece of veneer in the aluminum foil before applying it to the headstock? Is this so the piece can bend more easily?


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## Purelojik (Apr 2, 2014)

BlackMastodon said:


> Looking great as always. Do you heat up the piece of veneer in the aluminum foil before applying it to the headstock? Is this so the piece can bend more easily?



I spray it lightly on both sides first with some water then i iron it under a bunch of foil. it's kinda like using a straightener on curly hair. before when i rough cut the piece out it was dry and was all sorts of wavy and stiff. i used a chisel to basically punch the shape out. basically traced a line around the headstock with a generous space around the actual shape then pressed the chisel along those lines and popped the piece out afterwards. I honestly should have sprayed it before hand and done it but this was a slightly thicker piece of veneer so it didnt crack as much as some of the others. 

after ironing it i'll press it down with some heavy books clamped to the table and then glue it. i'll clean the glue dripping down but leave the glue that squeezes out around the area where the headstock meets the veneer so when im trimming it, if it splits like it usually does, the glue line will prevent the split from encroaching on the area i want to preserve.


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## jtm45 (Apr 2, 2014)

Deleted because someone already asked the same question!


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## Purelojik (Apr 11, 2014)

YUM

I got some string saver saddles just for the aesthetic purpose of matching the pickups. The added benefits of actually using string savers, are merely a plus. 



















the mineral spirits were flashing off faster than expected, its why the body color looks splotchy.


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## Purelojik (Apr 15, 2014)

Tidy'd up the Burl Maple Neck, and prepped the back veneer














Next up, glue the back veneer on the burl maple neck, then radius, fret, drill holes for tuners and install threaded inserts.


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## Purelojik (Apr 18, 2014)

I use floss while radiusing. keeps most of the dust out and saves time from constantly having to remove impacted dust with a blade. while radiusing i just use some compressed air to clear the even shallower grooves and when its all done i just lay it on its side and lift one side of floss up and bam all the dust comes with it.


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## BlackMastodon (Apr 18, 2014)

Genius. Never thought about flossing my neck before.


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## TylerRay (Apr 18, 2014)

BlackMastodon said:


> Genius. Never thought about flossing my neck before.



No doubt! I'll keep this in mind for un-bound necks! Looking great so far. Really looking forward to seeing this one completed


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## Purelojik (Apr 20, 2014)

oh yeaaa its coming together. Gotta wait for the shop to fix the drill press then i'll finish the rest of the rough woodworking


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## Purelojik (Apr 21, 2014)

Hngnn check out how this veneer pops with some mineral spirits!
























I had to tread carefully because there was thin layer of glue from clamping that i had to sand off without sanding through. i JUST made it. The black and decker detail mouse is what i use and you can be VERY aggressive with it or you can let it work and it'll give you whatever result your're looking for.


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## Purelojik (May 2, 2014)

so i passed my most recent board exam and am super stoked. Now i gotta scramble to get all my paperwork in order and to get my med school in india to move their ass to finish my PTAL california letter so i can apply to residencies here. 

this also leaves less time for the shop. but i did manage to get some more work done. I also designed and ordered new humbucker templates and control cavity templates because the ones i was working with before were just not working out well. i went to polulu and went with 9.5mm clear acrylic so i can see what the hell im doing. 

I busted out the dremel drill press stand and realized that it worked real well with smaller drill bits as well as the standard 4 dremel bits. I hand drilled the back ferrules and forstnered the volume pot countersink. I also shaped the heel end of the fretboard to better suit the flow of the bodies. did somethign new with the roasted maple fingerboard end. I actually use my calipers to draw a radius curve at the bottom and shaved away until it was equal. I dig the result. These should be finishing up in the next two weeks once i get those templates. In the meantime i'll be carving the necks. 

i might scoop out just a bit more in the upper horns of the roasted maple body. i chambered it near there so it'll only be a touch more, just until the body wood shows through slightly. 






























and here's a peek at the roasted maple build


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## BlackMastodon (May 2, 2014)

There's a drill press attachment for the dremel?? Now I really need to get one. Also need some Brad point bits, looking at how clean your work is is making me jealous.


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## Purelojik (May 2, 2014)

BlackMastodon said:


> There's a drill press attachment for the dremel?? Now I really need to get one. Also need some Brad point bits, looking at how clean your work is is making me jealous.



yea dude its great. theres a set of four official dremel brad point bits. really nice too. 


man i wish i worked cleaner. My goal is to work as clean as Knarbens over at luthier talk, man that guy is CLEAAAN


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## Purelojik (May 2, 2014)

Man i actually missed an update.

I had to shave off the front veneer of the headstock and shave the main wood down a bit because the headstock was too thick. I thought i measured correctly but i guess i didnt.

either way i fixed the problem and things are back on track.


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## TylerRay (May 2, 2014)

Looking great!


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## ErkerAsylum (May 2, 2014)

Looks like some great work. Lots of photos, so fun to look through.


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## Purelojik (May 22, 2014)

This guitar's rough woodworking is pretty much complete. now i gotta drill the jack, the pathways communicating the routes to the cavity and the ground. Then its finish sanding and finishing!!!!!!


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## lookslikemeband (May 22, 2014)

I've been wondering what was going on with this guitar...

Cool!


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## Blue1970Cutlass (May 22, 2014)

Lookin' good all around!

Love the use of insets & machine screws for the neck

also, that is one chunky welsh corgi lol


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## Purelojik (May 23, 2014)

Blue1970Cutlass said:


> Lookin' good all around!
> 
> Love the use of insets & machine screws for the neck
> 
> also, that is one chunky welsh corgi lol



haha thanks,

yea he just came back from the vet. also got groomed so hes all puffy, hes not as big as he looks but he needs to lose 4 lbs to get to normal weight. Problem lies with my parents who are the ones who have the dog for most of the week. I come home every two weeks and see him lol. My mom is slowly undoing all the training i've done when he was a puppy.


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## Prophetable (May 23, 2014)

Those guitars are looking great. I'm sad to see that one veneer gone, though. That veiny burl on the bottom with the tight flame up top was amazing.


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## Purelojik (May 23, 2014)

Prophetable said:


> Those guitars are looking great. I'm sad to see that one veneer gone, though. That veiny burl on the bottom with the tight flame up top was amazing.



you and me both dude. sadly it was the only piece i had. SHIT wait i might have another... pray that its big enough. wow i literally remembered that as i was typing this reply...


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## Prophetable (May 23, 2014)

Hah, sorry to create more work. It'll be worth it if you have it, though. Good luck, I'm all about the guitar porn.


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## Purelojik (May 23, 2014)

Prophetable said:


> Hah, sorry to create more work. It'll be worth it if you have it, though. Good luck, I'm all about the guitar porn.



dude if it works out then thats a huge win. the work is fun. i just gotta wait for glue to dry which makes me impatient lol


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## mcsalty (May 23, 2014)

I'm nearly ashamed to say that I'm almost as stoked about that corgi as I am about the guitar being finished


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## Purelojik (May 26, 2014)

oh baby












dont mind the lighting, it makes the body look all jersey shore spray tanned.


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## celticelk (May 26, 2014)

Love that singlecut shape! Let me know when you're taking orders. =)


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## Neilzord (May 27, 2014)

Yet more awesome work on this! 

Love seeing the updates and look forward to some more!! 

I want one.


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## Purelojik (May 29, 2014)

had to carefully enlarge the pickup cavities in order to fit the covered super pointy corner dimarzio titans


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## Purelojik (May 30, 2014)

Its been a while since i've done a full tru oil finish. Im playing around with the preval spray bottle thing and adjusting the ratio between mineral spirits and oil aint easy. im getting good results with 1 oz mineral spirits + 2oz Oil. I might need to add a touch more oil. before i tried using this spray bottle thing and did a 50 50 dilution which ended up with chunks of crap being spewed over the place. this time i placed the bottle in hot water for a while before i sprayed and would return it to the water between each coat. Worked like a charm


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## lookslikemeband (May 30, 2014)

Looking great!

So, why didn't you just wipe it on? 

And, they have tru-oil in a spray now...

Jus' saying...

Keep up the good work!!


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## Purelojik (May 30, 2014)

lookslikemeband said:


> Looking great!
> 
> So, why didn't you just wipe it on?
> 
> ...



I have been wiping it on but the final coats go on smoother by spraying. There's less time working out streaks and such. Esp cause if you sand through its a hard time fixing it. Those last pictures are after wet sanding with 1000 grit. 

Also tru oil spray isn't available here in Cali. The VOC laws are really limiting our usage of the really wonderful oil finishes. It's only a matter of time before they remove bottle tru oil. 

So that preval spray system works with some work. I'm teaching myself how to spray lacquer from rattle cans. Seems to be working well.


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## lookslikemeband (May 30, 2014)

I like to use the PreVal system for almost all of my clear spraying.....

It's easier and faster than cleaning up my HVLP sprayer....

As always, I'm learning...


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## BlackMastodon (May 30, 2014)

A thought occurred to me: I see that you used a plunge router or a forstner bit for the pickup ears. Are you going to chisel out the deeper area to match the pickup route or do they fit in the circular hole OK?


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## Purelojik (May 31, 2014)

BlackMastodon said:


> A thought occurred to me: I see that you used a plunge router or a forstner bit for the pickup ears. Are you going to chisel out the deeper area to match the pickup route or do they fit in the circular hole OK?



I actually used a forstener bit. i checked the clearance with the triangular tabs dimarzio has and they clear it perfectly.


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## Purelojik (Jun 14, 2014)

this body is ready. Neck will be carved this week.


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## Eliguy666 (Jun 14, 2014)

Looking pretty good. Are you planning to leave the pits open indefinitely, kind of like Conklin's open burl guitars?


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## Purelojik (Jun 14, 2014)

Eliguy666 said:


> Looking pretty good. Are you planning to leave the pits open indefinitely, kind of like Conklin's open burl guitars?



yup yup. Pretty sure some oil and stuff has fallen in there so its not entirely raw but im def not filling them. I like the open burl look.


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## Eliguy666 (Jun 14, 2014)

Sounds good to me! I like filler when it's used to add details, kind of like you see in some buckeye burl, like Wolffking's TK 8 (http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/extended-range-guitars/227247-ngd-my-new-tk-instruments-gp-8-eight-string-hollow-guitar.html), but I am a fan of the maple pits left open.


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## lookslikemeband (Jun 14, 2014)

Eliguy666 said:


> Sounds good to me! I like filler when it's used to add details, kind of like you see in some buckeye burl, like Wolffking's TK 8 (http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/ex...truments-gp-8-eight-string-hollow-guitar.html), but I am a fan of the maple pits left open.




GOODNESS!!!! THAT IS GORGEOUS!!!


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## BlackMastodon (Jun 15, 2014)

That polished up noiiiiice.


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## Purelojik (Jun 15, 2014)

BlackMastodon said:


> That polished up noiiiiice.



thanks bud. my arm kills though. buffing and everything by hand really kills.


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## Purelojik (Aug 19, 2014)

so this is long overdue. I finally finished this one lol. 























It already plays very well despite zero fretwork or an actual nut. i'll be taking it to joel grant of Grant guitars in fountain valley for that.


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## BetterOffShred (Aug 19, 2014)

Very fun build to follow. I really like the way you documented the whole thing, and your choice in woods is pretty cool. I'm curious about the "Gravity storm" pickup now, I love Dimarzio's stuff. Great build, I'd love to hear some sound clips of one of these bad boys 

-Brett


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## celticelk (Aug 19, 2014)

Dammit, I keep throwing money at the screen, and nothing is happening!


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## ThtOthrPrsn (Aug 19, 2014)

That is BEYOND amazing! And I love your headstock badge


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## PlumbTheDerps (Aug 19, 2014)

This is awesome. My fiancee is into woodworking and has made some sculptures out of maple burls. Never occurred to me that you could build a guitar out of one.


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## Blue1970Cutlass (Aug 19, 2014)

Super sexy singlecut!


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## VanDewart Guitars (Aug 20, 2014)

Very, very nice! Hand rubbed finishes are brutal in showing every discrepancy in the wood, but this looks so sensual! Can you walk by it without touching it?


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## Purelojik (Aug 22, 2014)

HQ shots round 1. NGD will have better lighted shots when setup and fretwork are completed but the light seemed so dramatic i just had to take some pictures
Taken with my sony RX100, only desk lamp as light, no post processing


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## Neilzord (Aug 22, 2014)

So awesome. Love the open grain & the way this guitar manages to look sleek and Chunky and the same time. 

Awesome work, And I also have to say you Headstock badge / logo's great, It's so Classy and Understated & Original. Love it!


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## froseidon (Aug 24, 2014)

I'd kill for that thing. Amazing work, dude.


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## immortalx (Aug 24, 2014)

I would never thought untreated burl would look THAT good! Such an awesome finish man!
Waiting for proper NGD and lots of photos


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## Prophetable (Aug 24, 2014)

Not to nitpick but be sure to put up an updated picture with the knob on. It looks great!


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## electriceye (Oct 29, 2014)

That's a stunning piece of work, especially for a dining room build! Love the resourcefulness! You mentioned getting sample pack sod those veneers. Where did you get them?


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## pondman (Oct 29, 2014)

Don't know how I missed this one 
Absolutely stunning work. 
Congrats


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## JuliusJahn (Oct 29, 2014)

This one's definitely going in the "inspiration" folder. Really love that style of upper "horn? Bout? What would you call that anyways?


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## Purelojik (Oct 31, 2014)

thanks guys!

pondman that means a lot coming from you!

and juliusjahn i just call it a horn lol. nothing fancy. it looked a lot knobbier before i modified the template. i dig it now. 

Here's some more finished pictures, and a soundcloud clip. First time recording direct with it .
[SC]https://soundcloud.com/shehatesmytie/burl-maple-singlecut-clean[/SC]














First impressions with this one is that its very harmonically rich. Through an amp its much more apparent but the notes seem to just jump out at me. Im glad i went super minimalistic and didnt opt for a switch or tone knob or split option. This keeps me focused on playing rather than fiddling with tones. the down position for the push pull is the bridge pup and the up is the neck.

cleans sound amazing with the titan in mahogany. The thick maple cap really affects the sound. Makes it much brighter than when i tried the same exact pickup in my all mahogany LP. The entire guitar resonates as one and thats something im proud to say has been a part of each instrument i've built. Distortion it sounds great but honestly cleans is where this guitar shines. The gravity storm neck pup is pretty neutral/boring. but really lets the wood tone shine through. you'll hear it in the clip. it first starts out on the bridge pup then switches to the neck as im noodling.


please let me know what you guys think. i've learned everything on this forum and i'd like to hear some feedback on the likes and dislikes. Thanks for watching another one of my long ass build threads. I think this one took about a year in total just because life got in the way with exams and stuff. Its been a fun experience . There'll be another starting up very soon!


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## Slunk Dragon (Oct 31, 2014)

Dude, this guitar turned out fantastic! And it sounds gorgeous as well!

Congrats on the finished guitar!


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## Skoude (Oct 31, 2014)

This is just gorgeous! One of my favorite builds around here!


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## downburst82 (Oct 31, 2014)

Looks really awesome!! 

Looking with the critical eye one thing I notice is it looks like a couple of the bridge saddles are pretty close to maxed out maybe in future the bridge should be mounted back 5-10mm allowing more room for adjustment? 

Either way its an Epic looking instrument


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## bombonx101 (Oct 31, 2014)

A true masterpiece to me!...And no switch?Why?


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## yingmin (Oct 31, 2014)

bombonx101 said:


> A true masterpiece to me!...And no switch?Why?



Because the volume pot is a push/pull switch that toggles between pickups.


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## shikamaru (Oct 31, 2014)

really stunning build, I loved some of your ideas and the result is really impressive !


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## bombonx101 (Oct 31, 2014)

I get that,but then there is no both pickups in action,or that is some hell of a pot!


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## bombonx101 (Oct 31, 2014)

yingmin said:


> Because the volume pot is a push/pull switch that toggles between pickups.


I get that,but then there is no both pickups in action,or that is some hell of a pot!


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## Purelojik (Oct 31, 2014)

downburst82 said:


> Looks really awesome!!
> 
> Looking with the critical eye one thing I notice is it looks like a couple of the bridge saddles are pretty close to maxed out maybe in future the bridge should be mounted back 5-10mm allowing more room for adjustment?
> 
> Either way its an Epic looking instrument



Good eye buddy! yea its something i should have factored in. I have shorter hipshot saddles but since this was using string saver saddles I didnt have the option. Its another thing to add to the "Check before you drill" list. 

As for the question about both pickups together, I just dont use that position at all. I might add a switch later for a coil tap option or something but even then its only on occasion do i truely use those tonal options.

Thanks again guys!


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## Neilzord (Oct 31, 2014)

Such a gorgeous guitar. 
The open "grains?" on the top looks natural but at the same time finished very smoothly. Mixed with that subltle but very solid looking shape, the soft carves with the hint of sharpness. It's mix of class and brutality is second to none! Absolutely love it. 

Can you post an NGD so I can add more praise in there?


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## Purelojik (Oct 31, 2014)

Neilzord said:


> Such a gorgeous guitar.
> The open "grains?" on the top looks natural but at the same time finished very smoothly. Mixed with that subltle but very solid looking shape, the soft carves with the hint of sharpness. It's mix of class and brutality is second to none! Absolutely love it.
> 
> Can you post an NGD so I can add more praise in there?



haha I was just about to make the post too! sure thing bud!


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## immortalx (Oct 31, 2014)

This is really one of the best builds I've seen on sso! The one word description of it would be : Elegant 

Congrats man


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## Purelojik (Oct 31, 2014)

electriceye said:


> That's a stunning piece of work, especially for a dining room build! Love the resourcefulness! You mentioned getting sample pack sod those veneers. Where did you get them?



missed this question! 

i got the sample pack from Woodcraft in orange county. you can get sample packs anywhere really. just check the max and minimum dimensions to make sure they'll do the trick


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## superash (Nov 1, 2014)

Such a sweet build. That top made me day!


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## Blue1970Cutlass (Nov 1, 2014)

I already posted on your NGD, but I will reiterate my appreciation here


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