# Getting my 6505 to sound less FIZZY



## 1metalman1 (Nov 19, 2008)

Hello, i have recently bought a Peavey 6505 and a Vader 4x12 cab. I got the high gain tube replacement set from Euro Tubes as recommended by members on this forum. This doesn't seem to have effected the tone that much. To be honest i can't really notice any difference. I use a 6 string BC Rich Warlock with the new Seymour Duncan Blackout pickups. 
At high volumes the tone starts to really break up and can sound fizzy. I've tried several eq settings. The best eq setting i found so far is:-

Pre gain - 4
Low - 8
Mid - 8
High- 0
Resonance - 7
Presence - 10

These setting make the tone very compressed and it reduces some of the hih end fizz.
If i use a compression pedal will this sort this out?. Please tell me what you guys have done to your Peaveys to get the best out of them. 

Thanks.


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## stuh84 (Nov 19, 2008)

Raise the highs, bring down the presence, and knock down the lows and pre gain a little. Thats what I would do with them settings anyway.


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## budda (Nov 19, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> Hello, i have recently bought a Peavey 6505 and a Vader 4x12 cab. I got the high gain tube replacement set from Euro Tubes as recommended by members on this forum. This doesn't seem to have effected the tone that much. To be honest i can't really notice any difference. I use a 6 string BC Rich Warlock with the new Seymour Duncan Blackout pickups.
> At high volumes the tone starts to really break up and can sound fizzy. I've tried several eq settings. The best eq setting i found so far is:-
> 
> Pre gain - 4
> ...



your first problem: your presenc knob is at 10.

your other problems: your resonance knob is at 7, you have your treble set to 0, your lows are at 8.

Pre: 4
low: 6
Mids: 7
treble: 6.5
resonance: 6
presence: 4

you're welcome.


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## TimSE (Nov 19, 2008)

budda said:


> your first problem: your presenc knob is at 10.
> 
> your other problems: your resonance knob is at 7, you have your treble set to 0, your lows are at 8.
> 
> ...


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## Variant (Nov 19, 2008)

I'll also add in that 5150/6505's are inherently "fizzy" sounding at the speaker. Close mic your cab up, and monitor it from the control room... and a lot of that goes away.


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## stuh84 (Nov 19, 2008)

Yeah I noticed that, the 5150 is one of the nicest recorded tones I've come across, but in a room? Annoying....


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## Meldville (Nov 20, 2008)

Maybe add a graphic EQ to your loop as well? I've got a GE7 I'm going to be experimenting with on my 5150II next week, as I want less high-end fizz as well.


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## Brord (Nov 20, 2008)

Well 5150 have some fizzyness in them by nature... just the characteristic of the amp, but I think lots of it disapears when u play it in a band context.

A bias mod will probably help you noticably, 5150 have fixed bias that's set WAAAAAY to cold! A bias mod is really easy and it allows u to run the tubes as they should be run.

Your eq-ing isn't helping either. Balance it some more. You have a shitload of low end and really little highs and your precense is way over the top. IMO 5150's sound great with all knobs between 10 and 2 o clock.

I could reccomend you
gain: around 4, adjust to taste, but really use as little as possible
low: 10-12 o clock
mid: 12-2 o clock
high: 1-2 o clock
resonance: between 11 and 1 o clock, depending on cab, tuning, strings etc (this effects your mids in a tremendous way)
presence: 10-11 o clock

All these settings are o clock-ISH, fiddle around some, but these settings and the ones posted above should give you an indication.


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## petereanima (Nov 20, 2008)

+1 @ bias-mod. then drive those tubes hard'n'hot.


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## 1metalman1 (Nov 20, 2008)

Thanks for the help guys. I was told by EUROTUBES that a bias mod will only really effect the clean channel. As i mainly use the lead channel i was recommended to go for the high gain tube re-fit. 

I have used an eq pedal in the effects loop but the amp loses some of the power and low end even when the eq pedal settings are neutral.


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## Drew (Nov 20, 2008)

stuh84 said:


> Yeah I noticed that, the 5150 is one of the nicest recorded tones I've come across, but in a room? Annoying....



Solo, in a room, at least. 

A Rectifier is similar, in that it always seems to have this "buzz" to it. That lasts right up to the point where you add in bass and drums, and then suddenly it just sounds absolutely crushing.


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## sami (Nov 20, 2008)

budda said:


> your first problem: your presenc knob is at 10.
> 
> your other problems: your resonance knob is at 7, you have your treble set to 0, your lows are at 8.
> 
> ...



dude, those are about my amp settings nowadays. You spyin on me?? Hope you're wearing earplugs.


And my  :
Put an OD before if you don't want to get it modded.


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## budda (Nov 20, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> Thanks for the help guys. I was told by EUROTUBES that a bias mod will only really effect the clean channel. As i mainly use the lead channel i was recommended to go for the high gain tube re-fit.
> 
> I have used an eq pedal in the effects loop but the amp loses some of the power and low end even when the eq pedal settings are neutral.



and what did you have the level slider set to?

if you can get the amp bias modded and biased, do so. it'll improve the whole thing, just probably a more noticeable change on the crunch/clean channel.

also, a parametric EQ will help loads more then a graphic EQ.

if you use the settings i suggested, you should be fine.


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## 7 Dying Trees (Nov 20, 2008)

Bias mod sorts out a lot of the fizz and makes the amp more brutal  

Plus a retube does wonders as well.


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## 1metalman1 (Nov 21, 2008)

I'll probably get the bias mod done to the amp.

I had a gig last night and i thought i'd try similar settings to what you guys have recommended. 

These were my settings:-

Lead Channel.

Pre Gain - 4
Low - 6.5/7
Mid - 7
High - 4
Resonance - 6
Presence - 3
Post Gain - 3.5

Overall the tone was much better. It sounded thicker but weirdly still had a lot of high end even though the high end settings were lower????. 

When this amp is played with the mix of the other instruments it really ROCKS.

Thanks again guys.


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## petereanima (Nov 21, 2008)

did you stand in front of the cab? because standing in the radiation-angle (? 1:1 german-english, dont know the correct word for it in english by now) of the speakers will give you total highendfizzle-overload.


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## FireaL (Nov 23, 2008)

Usually getting my post past 3 takes all the fizz away for me but i do keep my presence no higher than 4.


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## maliciousteve (Nov 23, 2008)

What cab are you running it with? Maybe a change of speakers for something with less high end could help out a bit more. The 5150 cab I had made every amp I had sound like crap.


Edit: Ignore that, just read you have a vader cab


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## HeavyMachinery (Nov 23, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> Hello, i have recently bought a Peavey 6505 and a Vader 4x12 cab. I got the high gain tube replacement set from Euro Tubes as recommended by members on this forum. This doesn't seem to have effected the tone that much. To be honest i can't really notice any difference. I use a 6 string BC Rich Warlock with the new Seymour Duncan Blackout pickups.
> At high volumes the tone starts to really break up and can sound fizzy. I've tried several eq settings. The best eq setting i found so far is:-
> 
> Pre gain - 4
> ...



Best way is change amp, Buy ENGL  

First of all i dislikes 6505 & 5150 cause it's sound way too solidstate in my ear i never get decent sound in lead channel i always used clean channel crunch mode. 

But if you want that fizzyness a way try in 1 or 2 second gain state 12AU7 tube. Less you have gain less you have buzz in tone. Less gain makes it all so sound aggressive.

EDIT:

All so bias mode is really needed to make that amp decent.....


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## Hawksmoor (Nov 23, 2008)

I just got my 6505 

And I concur. On its own this amp has a very decent sound to my ears, but in a band context it's absolutely crushing. I, and my bandmates, love it! Now all I need is a Tonebone Headbone to switch it all with the PODxt Pro / Classic 50/50 rig and I guess I have a killer setup.

Settings for now ( slightly scooped):

Pre gain - 4
Low - 5
Mid - 4
High- 5
Resonance - 5
Presence - 7
Post Gain - 4

Guitars are: Ibanez RG 7620 with Seymour Duncan Blackouts.


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## HeavyMachinery (Nov 23, 2008)

Hawksmoor said:


> Now all I need is a Tonebone Headbone to switch it all with the PODxt Pro / Classic 50/50 rig and I guess I have a killer setup.
> .



Why dont you just put POD in loop and use 6505 as power amp.

Split signal in 2 for example with tuner and but pod out to 6505 loops return set it to 50wet then just drive both in same time  ( idont remember for sure how 6505 loop works so this is possible only if loop fuctions allow it)


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## forelander (Nov 23, 2008)

You guys are running your presence waaaaaaaaaaaaay too high. I found presence decent for playing at low volumes, but the louder you go, the lower the presence dial should be .


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## budda (Nov 23, 2008)

my presence knob is on 6 because i play a les paul lol


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## smith10210 (Nov 23, 2008)

Ive owned a 6505 and a voodoo 6505. The bias mod is a must and makes the amp less fizzy period that includes the rhythm and lead. Get rid of the JJ's there is no need for the high gain set put some c9's in there. The 6505 has enough gain. JJ power tubes are ok for this amp but I'm not a fan of them and good luck getting them replaced if you have any problems.. I would retube it with ruby 6l6 str's or winded C's and get the bias up around 33ma. Put a jan12ax7 in v1 which will lower the gain a tad and help with the fizz. I would also recommend boosting it. The voodoo 6505 was alot clearer sounding but was modded. I ran mine with a Vader 2x12 and it sounded great. I want another one


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## Brord (Nov 24, 2008)

HeavyMachinery said:


> Best way is change amp, Buy ENGL
> 
> First of all i dislikes 6505 & 5150 cause it's sound way too solidstate in my ear i never get decent sound in lead channel i always used clean channel crunch mode.





That's the very first time I've ever witnessed somebody describing a 5150 as solid state...


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## noob_pwn (Nov 24, 2008)

HeavyMachinery said:


> Best way is change amp, Buy ENGL
> 
> First of all i dislikes 6505 & 5150 cause it's sound way too solidstate in my ear



doood are you srs?


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## petereanima (Nov 24, 2008)

5150 sounds solidstate and therefor he should buy an ENGL?


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## Emperoff (Nov 24, 2008)

petereanima said:


> 5150 sounds solidstate and therefor he should buy an ENGL?



Maybe he was being sarcastic


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## Hawksmoor (Nov 24, 2008)

HeavyMachinery said:


> Why dont you just put POD in loop and use 6505 as power amp.
> 
> Split signal in 2 for example with tuner and but pod out to 6505 loops return set it to 50wet then just drive both in same time  ( idont remember for sure how 6505 loop works so this is possible only if loop fuctions allow it)




I was thinking about it too, but I can't see it done. I Prefer switching between two reliable systems.


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## warlock7strEMG (Nov 24, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> I'll probably get the bias mod done to the amp.
> 
> I had a gig last night and i thought i'd try similar settings to what you guys have recommended.
> 
> ...



sounds like youve got some good settings there but i think the problem you are havin now is more or less from the high gain tube set that you have in your amp. from what ive read most people have said that the high gain sets are really only beneficial in amps that are lackin in the gain department; whereas they make amps like 5150/6505s that already have a ton of gain way too bright and sizzly sounding. the standard retube set would prolly be the better way to go in the future


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## Brord (Nov 24, 2008)

petereanima said:


> 5150 sounds solidstate and therefor he should buy an ENGL?



Didn't want to put that in also in my comment, might seem I'm to much of an Engl hater, wich I'm not...


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## Stitch (Nov 24, 2008)

HeavyMachinery said:


> Why dont you just put POD in loop and use 6505 as power amp.
> 
> Split signal in 2 for example with tuner and but pod out to 6505 loops return set it to 50wet then just drive both in same time  ( idont remember for sure how 6505 loop works so this is possible only if loop fuctions allow it)



In Flames run POD Pro's into the return FX on their 5150's so they have 5150 for dirty and Pod Pro for clean, using the 5150's poweramp section to run the POD Pro into the cab. Basically they have a frontend A/B switcher, and when its set to the POD the FX Loop of the amp is brought on as well.

I think.


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## Rick (Nov 24, 2008)

Interesting.

If I end up getting a 6505, I'll need to figure out how to setup my PODXT Pro through the effects loop. I'll be using my Rocktron MIDI footcontroller to switch effects.


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## Hawksmoor (Nov 24, 2008)

Stitch said:


> In Flames run POD Pro's into the return FX on their 5150's so they have 5150 for dirty and Pod Pro for clean, using the 5150's poweramp section to run the POD Pro into the cab. Basically they have a frontend A/B switcher, and when its set to the POD the FX Loop of the amp is brought on as well.
> 
> I think.



That's what I thought as well, but that way they'd need some stereo amp switcher as well.


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## smith10210 (Nov 25, 2008)

warlock7strEMG said:


> sounds like youve got some good settings there but i think the problem you are havin now is more or less from the high gain tube set that you have in your amp. from what ive read most people have said that the high gain sets are really only beneficial in amps that are lackin in the gain department; whereas they make amps like 5150/6505s that already have a ton of gain way too bright and sizzly sounding. the standard retube set would prolly be the better way to go in the future


+1 yank those jj's out..


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## sami (Nov 26, 2008)

Rick said:


> Interesting.
> 
> If I end up getting a 6505, I'll need to figure out how to setup my PODXT Pro through the effects loop. I'll be using my Rocktron MIDI footcontroller to switch effects.



I've done this already and there's a problem. There is a low hum that happens once you plug in the PodXT into the FX Return. Doesn't matter if you're using the headphones out or one of the L-R outputs.

6505 family's FX loops are serial, so the ONLY knob that works is the post gain. It's like a dummy head once you bypass the preamp section. Not worth it IMO.


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## 1metalman1 (Nov 26, 2008)

Now that you mention it putting a high gain set of tubes in the 6505 does sound a bit wrong. Thats what was recommended so thats what i went for. Altogether it cost £170 ish for the full tube replacement so i don't really wanna waste all that money. I still have the original set of tubes from the amp. It was only the power tubes that were totally new . As i haven't really been blasting my amp past 4 then they wouldn't be affecting the tone that much. So overall it was probablt the wrong thing to do getting a tube replacement.


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## budda (Nov 26, 2008)

high gain tubes in general, im pretty sure a few techs have declared that blasphemy. 12AX7's are the highest gain grade you can get lol.

nothing wrong with getting a retube done. spares are handy!


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## Meldville (Nov 26, 2008)

For what it's worth, I put my Boss GE7 in the loop of my 5150II, cut the highest freq and bumped my upper mids, and my amp is a completely new beast now. And that's with these settings

Pre - 4.5
Low - 4
Mid - 7
High - 6
Resonance - 4
Presence - 5


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## kmanick (Nov 26, 2008)

I am so glad you posted this, I've been doing this too.
I put my MXR 10 band EQ into the loop of my 6505+ and basically did the same thing you did (but I cut my lows a tad too) and it completely smoothed out the tone of the amp. Absolutely zero "fizz" 




Ben Hutcherson said:


> For what it's worth, I put my Boss GE7 in the loop of my 5150II, cut the highest freq and bumped my upper mids, and my amp is a completely new beast now. And that's with these settings
> 
> Pre - 4.5
> Low - 4
> ...


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## Brord (Nov 27, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> Now that you mention it putting a high gain set of tubes in the 6505 does sound a bit wrong. Thats what was recommended so thats what i went for. Altogether it cost £170 ish for the full tube replacement so i don't really wanna waste all that money. I still have the original set of tubes from the amp. It was only the power tubes that were totally new . As i haven't really been blasting my amp past 4 then they wouldn't be affecting the tone that much. So overall it was probablt the wrong thing to do getting a tube replacement.



Nothing wrong with a retube and u didn't waste any money. You did a full retube and the high gain part is only in the pre amp part (the cheapest part of a retube) the power tubes are just fine, keep 'm in... new power tubes are so much nicer to play then old ones imo. Even better, the most drastic influence is made by changing just the v1 pre amp tube position, so that's just 1 pre amp tube that you might want to change, not that expensive at all.


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## 1metalman1 (Nov 27, 2008)

I tried my GE7 in the effects loop and i managed to get a killer tone. I really like the METAL SMILE setting on the pedal, but i am trying to dial in a mid rich tone for live situations. My mate has the MXR 10 band pedal and it produces a completely different tone to the GE7. Which one is better?


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## petereanima (Nov 27, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> Which one is better?



the one that fits you better.


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## budda (Nov 27, 2008)

i'd say the one with more versatility, which would be the 10-band.


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## kmanick (Nov 27, 2008)

the MXR doesn't "produce" a tone. It allows you to shape it.
you're compareing 7 to 10 bands. 
I've always used the MXR 10 with almost every amp I've ever owned.
I find for for the money it's probably the best EQ out there.


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## Meldville (Nov 30, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> I tried my GE7 in the effects loop and i managed to get a killer tone. I really like the METAL SMILE setting on the pedal, but i am trying to dial in a mid rich tone for live situations. My mate has the MXR 10 band pedal and it produces a completely different tone to the GE7. Which one is better?




Metal Smile? You mean you're cutting the mids? 

I'd suggest this. Cut your highest band a bit, boost your upper mids, and maaaaaybe cut your lowest freq ever so slightly. You'll cut through great


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## kmanick (Dec 1, 2008)

Ben Hutcherson said:


> Metal Smile? You mean you're cutting the mids?
> 
> I'd suggest this. Cut your highest band a bit, boost your upper mids, and maaaaaybe cut your lowest freq ever so slightly. You'll cut through great


 
Bingo!
that's exactly what I'm doing with my MXR 10 band in the loop of my 6505+ and it really smooths it out.


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## smith10210 (Dec 2, 2008)

1metalman1 said:


> Now that you mention it putting a high gain set of tubes in the 6505 does sound a bit wrong. Thats what was recommended so thats what i went for. Altogether it cost £170 ish for the full tube replacement so i don't really wanna waste all that money. I still have the original set of tubes from the amp. It was only the power tubes that were totally new . As i haven't really been blasting my amp past 4 then they wouldn't be affecting the tone that much. So overall it was probablt the wrong thing to do getting a tube replacement.


Yea the JJ power tubes are fine it will darken the amp up a tad compared to the Ruby's i had also i wouldn't worry about replacing them since you just bought them. I would defiantly buy a Jan 5751 preamp for v1. It will lower the gain a bit and help with the fizz. It also works great in v2 but not as noticeable of a gain loss. Its one tube i hang onto and put in most my high gainers ive owned even with my Engls it helps.


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## Fasol (Jan 25, 2009)

A lot of ppl, says that they amps are fizzy. What's your post gain level ? Because this is tube amp, it must be cranked up a little bit if not, he will be fizzy a lot.


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## fallenz3ro (Jan 25, 2009)

as others have said, turn the presence down.

when i had the amp, i actually turned the presence down to 1, and kept the highs at 3 or 4. it was really dark when at practice volumes....but then it sounded warm and huge in the band context.


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## silentrage (Jan 25, 2009)

A beam blocker will help too.
You could buy one, or cut out a piece of round foam/cardboard box and place it in front of your speaker cone.
Of course it's best if it's not flat but rounded in the front, this properly disperses the high frequencies that are projected from the centre of the cone.

At least that's what I've been told.


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## budda (Jan 25, 2009)

*why was this bumped?!?!?!*


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## Jan (Jan 25, 2009)

Proper EQing (by proper I mean moderate settings and not too much presence), gain BELOW 12:00 (I keep mine at 11:00 with a passive Ceramic Warpig pup), use low-gain guitar input, crank the amp up (at least 11 o'clock), add a good cab... an there should be no fizz. At least I have none. Even without the bias mod.

Gee, I've just realised this thread has been bumped...


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## Shinto (Jan 26, 2009)

Jan said:


> Proper EQing (by proper I mean moderate settings and not too much presence), gain BELOW 12:00 (I keep mine at 11:00 with a passive Ceramic Warpig pup), use low-gain guitar input, crank the amp up (at least 11 o'clock), add a good cab... an there should be no fizz. At least I have none. Even without the bias mod.
> 
> Gee, I've just realised this thread has been bumped...


It's alright, I could use some of the info here.


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