# Galveston 8-string bass mods in progress



## iron blast (Mar 24, 2012)

Hey guys I am currently modding my Galveston 8-string. Ive had it for about a year and it was leaving alot to be desired. So far I have swapped the tuners for Wilkinson ultralights, installed Bubinga wood vollume/tone knobs installed a Neutrik locking input jack. I plan on defretting Ebonizing and mirror coating the fingerboard adding a stop piece for toploading (larger strings wont fit string thru) installing a Bartolini pre and a 18volt mod. I was wondering if anyone knows some one who can help fabricate a stop piece for the bridge? The largest gauge string that fits thru the string thru ferules is a 145 wich in my opinion is far too floppy. A stop piece will allow me to use much larger gauges. I apologize in advance for the extremely poor quality pics all I have right now is my net books web cam.


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## Tyghor (Mar 24, 2012)

I've seen these basses on ebay for quite a time now, how are they?


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## Deadnightshade (Mar 24, 2012)

iron blast said:


> I plan on defretting Ebonizing and mirror coating the fingerboard



If you're totally sure about defretting it,I highly recommend using epoxy finish on the fretboard (I don't know if it's the same with mirror coating,looks the same though I think),as you'll be able to retain low action,plus the tone is really great for fretless.



iron blast said:


> adding a stop piece for toploading (larger strings wont fit string thru) installing a Bartolini pre and a 18volt mod. I was wondering if anyone knows some one who can help fabricate a stop piece for the bridge? The largest gauge string that fits thru the string thru ferules is a 145 wich in my opinion is far too floppy.




I think it's too much of a hassle to have a custom made tailpiece...If I were you,I'd have the holes of the strings that don't fit enlarged.You will definitely end with the holes slightly offset compared to where they rest on the bridge,but it's way easier IMO.I'm no tech,just throwing an idea here


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## iron blast (Mar 24, 2012)

Tyghor said:


> I've seen these basses on ebay for quite a time now, how are they?



This bass is actually quite nice considering it was only $300. They need mods to be a real contender tho. The biggest issue I have with it is the bridge and stock tuners blow. I would definitely install ultra light tuners because it will help defeat the neck dive and save your shoulders abit as these are pretty heavy beast.


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## LordCashew (Mar 24, 2012)

You could cut the ball end off an old string that DOES fit - a string thin enough to fit through the ball end of another string. Follow me? Then run it through the back of the bass and into the ball end of your super-thick string behind the bridge, ON TOP of the bass. tie a knot, maybe super glue it for reinforcement.

Kind of a janky idea but I think it would work.


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## Ryan-ZenGtr- (Mar 24, 2012)

^^
Ghetto, but could solve a problem... I like it!!!

I remember soldering my strings where they passed over the bridge to ensure they never snapped there... hehe... So I could boil them once a year and make them last for ever!

I was shopping for new strings for my Warwick Thumb 6 and perusing bass forums. Some of the guys had got over a decade out of a set of strings!


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## iron blast (Mar 24, 2012)

I am not wanting to drill the ferules out as that will look awful and soldering strings together seems like far too much work and sounds like it would also not be esthetically pleasing. I may end up having to make my own stop piece with some stainless steel or aluminum. I'm just lazy and would rather have some one else make me one lol. I still need to polish the gold plating off the ferules and bridge because I switched to chrome hardware on this bass. I added Schaller strap locks with super long screws and a comfort strap my shoulder is already thanking me.


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## Necris (Mar 24, 2012)

Tyghor said:


> I've seen these basses on ebay for quite a time now, how are they?


I owned one of these for a little under a year after buying one from a friend, they're decent basses for the price, however the bridge is cheaply made and difficult to adjust, I recall it having a lot of plastic parts. The low F# string it comes with is also too small to provide adequate tension despite the 35" scale but to fix the issue you have to mod the bass as the string is the largest the ferrule will take. 



Deadnightshade said:


> If you're totally sure about defretting it,I highly recommend using epoxy finish on the fretboard (I don't know if it's the same with mirror coating,looks the same though I think),as you'll be able to retain low action,plus the tone is really great for fretless.


There is actually an epoxy called "Mirror Coat" I assume that's what he was referring to. 
MirrorCoat - System Three Resins, Inc.


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## iron blast (Mar 25, 2012)

I started sanding the ferules and bridge to remove the gold plating its working like a charm. I also bought a Dremel for polishing the bridge and sand paper for stripping the finish. I'll try to post pics as I go.


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## iron blast (Apr 1, 2012)

Quick update. I have stripped the hardware, sanded most of the finish, defretted the neck ,and sanded the neck joint smooth. I went slightly too deep while sanding the neck joint as a result I am going to have to use wood glue and filler to fix it. So far everything is going fairly smooth I'll post some pics shortly.


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## iron blast (Sep 19, 2013)

This one is being re-awakened from the grave. I've gotten the body work almost finished the bridge is in the process of being made. I'll try to post pics soon guy's. Sorry about the huge delay. I got super busy after getting back from the Army and this was put on the back burner abit to my Warwick's I was fixing up at the time.


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