# KR Build #5 - Evertune



## KR250 (Apr 23, 2017)

Almost ready to begin build #5 with an Evertune bridge I bought a year ago. Had planned for it to go into some really nice woods, but since I've never actually played an Evertune before I decided to save those for build #6. Just received the Evertune templates today, so I have almost everything I need to begin. I'll practice the template routing on some other unsuspecting victim before committing to this very nice thick cut of alder.

Goal is to be simple but functional. Still deciding on set neck or bolt on but most likely set neck since I plan to paint everything satin black. Here's the specs so far:

Style: 7 string set neck or bolt-on
Scale: 27" 
Bridge: Evertune
Tuners: Hipshot open tuners - 4 bass/3 treble
Pickups: SD Nazgul, Sentient passive mount - or Instrumental SFTY3-7?
Electronics: 1 toggle, 1 volume - toggle
Body: Alder - painted 
Neck: Roasted maple - carbon reinforced 
Fret board: Pale Moon Ebony 
Inlays: luminlay side dots 
Head Stock: Maple - painted black or PME from fretboard? 
Nut: Black Tusq XL 
Frets: 24 stainless 51/100
Truss Rod: Spoke wheel at neck pocket
Finish: painted black - epoxy/satin poly

i'm undecided on adding inlays to the PME fretboard and whether to paint the backside of the neck and coat with satin poly, or stain it ebony and just add wax. Also pickup selection, but just played a Nazgul/Sentient combo and really liked it so probably will go with that and go with an Instrumental set on the next build. 

Anyway, here's the latest design, still not quite finalized:






And the Woods:


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## M3CHK1LLA (Apr 23, 2017)

cool...wood selections look great


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## KR250 (May 5, 2017)

Made some small progress by testing out the Evertune templates on scrap wood. Also ordered the Instrumental SFTY3-7 pickups. 











A few mistakes in the routing, just some overshots with depth in one area. Good thing I practiced. Also used the master templates to make thicker versions which really helped. I'm going to make the body a hair thicker than 1.75" so I can recess the cover plate on the back. 





A LOT of wood removed. I'm going to use this scrap to check out how the pickup will actually mount. It's going to leave a very thin piece of wood near the bridge although I usually like about 1 inch of spacing.


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## DistinguishedPapyrus (May 5, 2017)

Man it's cool that you're using Instrumental Pickups. I used those in the last build I did, I had Ethan make some specifically for that guitars fan angle and string spacing. Love them. I want to put another custom set in a fanned fret guitar for my next build.


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## Electrotimber (May 6, 2017)

Hi , interesting build. I also am building a 7 strings baritone 27" with no plan, based only on fretboard reached on FretFind2d. It will be useful having a pdf plan. Could you pm me if you would help?


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## KR250 (May 6, 2017)

DistinguishedPapyrus said:


> Man it's cool that you're using Instrumental Pickups. I used those in the last build I did, I had Ethan make some specifically for that guitars fan angle and string spacing. Love them. I want to put another custom set in a fanned fret guitar for my next build.


Looking forward to playing on them, really like all the sound clips I've heard so far and Ethan's been very responsive. My next build (already have the wood) is going to use them in a fanned layout. 



Electrotimber said:


> Hi , interesting build. I also am building a 7 strings baritone 27" with no plan, based only on fretboard reached on FretFind2d. It will be useful having a pdf plan. Could you pm me if you would help?



Sure, I just imported FF2D layout into Sketchup. It's not perfect or complete, but can send something over later today. I upgraded to 2017 version of Sketchup and has made some angles harder to draw.


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## Electrotimber (May 7, 2017)

ok Thanks a lot. I also have sketch up some were on my pc. just have to see where is located and if it still works.  Question, can I convert that file in to pdf? it will be more simple to print out. To say the true I prefer to learn autocad for future cnc builds I have in mind. Still don't have a machine but one day who knows....!


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## KR250 (May 26, 2017)

Progress is finally being made, not too exiting but rough cut and planed the body to shape. Realized the neck piece isn't long enough to insert into the pickup cavity, so need to order another piece. Still need to order hardware and decide on set neck or bolt on. After re-working my previous set neck, I'm leaning to bolt on as it's so much easier to work with. 






Also received the Instrumental SFTY3-7 pickups. I noticed the mounting tabs require less depth to mount which will be a huge bonus since the bridge route takes out so much wood.


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## J_Mac (May 27, 2017)

KR250 said:


> Sure, I just imported FF2D layout into Sketchup. It's not perfect or complete, but can send something over later today. I upgraded to 2017 version of Sketchup and has made some angles harder to draw.



You can do that?!  Must get to grips with Sketchup. 

Enjoying this build dude, great design and wood choices. Is that contour going to be on the front?


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## KR250 (May 27, 2017)

J_Mac said:


> You can do that?!  Must get to grips with Sketchup.


I need to check it it's still possible, I think some features were taken away in Sketchup like importing DXF format, but I had imported two different designs about a year ago which I used here.



J_Mac said:


> Is that contour going to be on the front?


Contour will be on the back side (tummy cut). I'll probably do some kind of top carve to make it comfortable. I've done that on the previous builds and has been very comfortable. BTW, digging your build as well.


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## MikeNeal (May 27, 2017)

KR250 said:


> I need to check it it's still possible, I think some features were taken away in Sketchup like importing DXF format, but I had imported two different designs about a year ago which I used here.



I think only the paid version can import .dxf

I usually just take all the measurements that fretfind puts out and draw it out myself


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## KR250 (Jun 12, 2017)

I've been re-finishing a previous project that is nearly complete and had a couple hours today to finally work on this one again. Body is mostly sanded to shape, I prefer the band saw/spindle sander approach vs. router. Building the neck next, then will route out the neck pocket and make measurements before hogging out the cavity for the Evertune. 

Scarf joint at 12 degrees using the radial saw method. I have a jig for the band saw but the cut isn't as flat as this. 





Cut it and just needs a light sanding now to get it ready for glue up. I did have to narrow up the neck blank slightly to get my 10" blade to cut all the way through, still plenty on the sides left.


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## KR250 (Jun 12, 2017)

Little bit more progress to close out the day. Glued up the neck then took close look at the fret board to work around a few cracks, rough cut, and sanded. Decided to go with the light colored portion for the treble side (although could flip it). Have an idea to use either luminlay or MOP for inlays on the bass side, blocks blend right on the edge so you can see from either the top or side.


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## Kaff (Jun 13, 2017)

Good luck with this build! Looks great so far! Evertune is a bit of a hassle to route but patience is key while doing it!


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## KR250 (Jun 26, 2017)

A little bit of progress, slow going when I only have one day a week to work on it  

Scarf joint came out nicely, fret board is nearly shaped along with the neck, and started shaping the head stock. Current plan is to paint all of the tempered maple satin black. Unsure of trying to do binding anywhere, but if so probably the head stock would make most sense as an accent. 

Next up is finishing the shaping, then truss rod and carbon routing, fret slotting, then gluing it all together. Not touching the bridge routing or neck pocket until the neck is done.


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## Walshy (Jun 28, 2017)

Love your builds, mate. Brave of you to take on an Evertune install as well. That's definitely on my to-do list of future builds.

It's almost a shame you're painting over that alder though - it's so pretty with the massive cathedral grain down the centre.


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## KR250 (Jun 28, 2017)

Walshy said:


> It's almost a shame you're painting over that alder though - it's so pretty with the massive cathedral grain down the centre.


Good point. I do have some ebony stain I could sand back to keep it dark but show some grain, probably go that route instead now.


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## Mr_Mar10 (Jun 28, 2017)

Great fretboard 

I tried sketchup the other day & could bearly figure out how to draw a curve
Was hoping to get some templates laser cut, any pointers appreciated

Look forward to seeing updates to this build


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## KR250 (Jun 28, 2017)

I'm no expert on Sketchup, but the latest update made drawing curves quite difficult for me as well (very time consuming). Probably try the older 2015/16 software version to start with. For first step, I imported pictures of designs I liked and scaled them in the software to appropriate scale length/etc, then traced out and altered with my own modifications. I did my best in designing this template with the curves, then printed out and made slight modifications in pencil to the body before cutting.


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## KR250 (Jul 9, 2017)

I slotted the fret board earlier in the week, looking to finish up the neck in the next few days. Not totally sure what to do for inlays yet. Thinking of going with just luminlay side dots and keeping the fret board clean. Other option was either pearl or luminlay cut into squares and placed on the edges visible from both sides. Thoughts?


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## NickS (Jul 9, 2017)

I assume this is a right-hand build? I ask partly because it looks like your avatar is left-handed. I would go with the squares on the edge idea, since then it appears you wouldn't be messing with the blonde wood part of the fretboard.


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## Kaff (Jul 10, 2017)

Looks awesome! Routing the Evertune cavity is a bit of a scary experience, but easy enough with proper guides.


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## KR250 (Jul 10, 2017)

Ah yes, it's a right hand build so either option would go on the darker side of the wood. For the squares idea would be something like the picture below, but with rounded tips (from router bit). Two thoughts for material are Luminlay or pearl.


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## NickS (Jul 10, 2017)

I like the Luminlay square-on-the-edge idea. Looks pretty unique, and awesome!!


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## KR250 (Jul 18, 2017)

Pardon all the updates today, my one day to really make progress out of the week and I milked it. Neck routed to shape, neck pocket routed, and started on the Evertune bridge routing (Just one more template left and it's done). Ran out of time tonight to finish it up. 

My neck pocket "jig". Once I run out of router bit depth, I move it to the router table.





The neck pocket came out super tight, really please with this one. I used tape on the jig to make it overly tight, then sanded back to get it "just right". My center line is spot on, I waited for this part to be completed before routing the bridge.





The neck goes deeper into the body on this one and will route it down for the pickup, leaving a thinner tab below but still adding stability. 








Crappy cell phone pic, but only 1 template left to complete the Evertune pocket. I did a complete route on a spare piece of wood prior and transferred one of the templates onto thicker MDF to help out the process. Being very mindful of depth measurements so hopefully I get it spot on.


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## KR250 (Jul 30, 2017)

Small bit of progress:

Evertune routed, electronics cavity routed (had to make new templates), and beer gut cut out with a new shinto rasp 

You can see all the scoring on the Evertune routes using my old router bits, just got 4 new Amana Tool bits of various sizes which are working out really nicely on the electronics cavity. 




Routed the final shape for the headstock, planed it down, and drilled tuning peg holes.


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## KR250 (Aug 6, 2017)

Took a week off from surgery, but back at it again today and tomorrow. I've got an upcoming bass build for a friend so I'm trying to complete this one ASAP. I'm also REALLY anxious to play it. 

Decided to drop the top/side inlay thing and will just using Luminlay side dots. The wood is just to pretty (and rare) to experiment on with something new. I'll try that idea out on darker/cheaper fret board. Also, going to make this a set neck vs. bolt on. I love the feel of the re-do I did on build #2 and want to make this one even better. 

Shooting for neck thickness of .750 at the 1st fret. So far I've got the fret board down to .210, and the neck at .590, .800" total so have a bit more to shave off still. Left a bit of meat to work with later while I'm faceting/shaping the neck. 

On to some pictures. 

My no-nonsense neck thicknessing jig. Don't hate it because it's ugly. I measure everything to ensure it's got the right slope before doing any routing. Works great and super simple.





Front side with pickups routed, a little cleanup to do:





Backside with pickups routed. The small piece of wood is .25" thick, pretty thin, but looks to be ok. I haven't made the route for the cavity cover plate yet. 










I routed a pickup depth of .530", pretty shallow but the Instrumental SFTY3-7 pickups don't need much. Huge bonus which allows more meat in the neck/pickup cavity area. The roasted maple isn't terribly thick to begin with.





Mock up before I start gluing and fretting. Planning on some deep cutaways and carving along the body top then a black stain to allow some grain to show through. 










I can almost taste it....


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## MikeNeal (Aug 6, 2017)

Looks great so far


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## Mr_Mar10 (Aug 7, 2017)

Awesome work! Great body shape btw


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## KR250 (Aug 7, 2017)

Spent most of today working on this for what looks like a small amount of progress. Made the pickup routes a bit deeper (.6"), routed the rear Evertune plate, drilled for pickup wiring, glued the neck/fret board, beveled the back side 45, then the top side. Looked at it for a while and didn't like the 45 degree on the top so widened it quite a bit and liking how it looks now. Still a bit of clean up to do, but pretty close.


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## IGC (Aug 10, 2017)

Looking very good


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## KR250 (Aug 22, 2017)

Doesn't look like much, but have been chipping away a few hours each night to finish up the neck. Faceted the radius into the neck, then smoothed it down and currently just a hair over 20mm at the thinnest point. Stainless frets are pressed in, ends dressed, leveled to 16" radius, and polished. Have a little clean up work still, so considering it about 85-90% complete for the fretwork. Probably have 10 hours just into the fretwork alone. 

Luminlay side dots installed:





Another mock-up phase, need to clamp down the neck and ring a few strings on it to see if I need to shim or adjust the neck before I glue it. Not pictured is the back contour at the heel which feels really nice. Waiting on threaded inserts to show up before I can screw down the pickups.


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## KR250 (Aug 22, 2017)

One more pic before heading to work of the back side of the neck. Just rough sanding so far. Once it's glued up I'll smooth out the heel transition making it a little more concave. The body blank was almost 2", so there is a lot of meat to carve! 

Have had a couple minor issues so far. routed slightly too far into the neck at the volute area but was able to patch and sand it without it looking very noticeable. When I did the scarf joint, the piece of wood I used was a bit thinner than I have in the past, I think this placed the lamination point right at the top of the volute which looked weird, so I took the volute way down. I actually kind of like it this way but was trying to figure out what was different this time. Also had to level the frets a little more than I had hoped, still lots of height left but took a bit more than just a few quick passes with the beam sander. I think this was caused by skipping a step where I re-level the fret board after shaping the neck before pressing in the frets.


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## gujukal (Aug 23, 2017)

Looks nice, love the shape with the big upper horn. What's the scale length? Looks like baritone.


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## KR250 (Aug 23, 2017)

Yup, 27" scale. I checked the range of height on the bridge last night and I've got plenty of adjustment either way which is awesome. Spent a little time learning the Evertune and adjustment points, seems like everything is working as it should. I'm REALLY liking the ergonomics on this one so far, very comfortable shape to play on, and the bridge feels great! I've used the Hipshot fixed on all my past builds and like it, except for the sharp corners on the saddles. 

String/fret height check:





After playing with it a bit, decided it was ready to commit to gluing on the neck. Able to get two clamps on for a nice tight fit. Once it dries will clean up the curves, blend in the neck, then finish sand. 





Next up is playing with dye's I bought from StewMac. Going to experiment a bit first, then on to the body.


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## gujukal (Aug 24, 2017)

Awesome dude, really like all your builds. Just a few questions, did you do any course in guitar building or are you self taught? Do you sell your guitars?


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## gujukal (Aug 24, 2017)

Awesome dude, really like all your builds. Just a few questions, did you do any course in guitar building or are you self taught? Do you sell your guitars? 

EDIT: Sorry for double post


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## KR250 (Aug 24, 2017)

Thanks. I spent a lot of time reading this particular forum and following a lot of YouTube videos before doing anything. I took notes and put together a list of steps that I scoured through before touching any tools. That helped a lot. Lots of wood working history, but no prior guitar building experience other than action setups. First build was a hybrid, so I only made the body. Lots of mistakes on that one, but learned and am gradually making less mistakes as I do more. The main reason I started building was due to the volume knob placement on my ESP E2, drove me crazy being right on the bridge pickup!

Not yet selling guitars, eventually will once I get through a lot more builds, have better consistency, and faster turnaround. I have done a build for a friend (he paid for all parts/materials - I did free labor). About to do another one for his cousin now right after this one is done.


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## KR250 (Aug 28, 2017)

Ok, need some feedback on the finish in progress. Had intended to try and keep some of the grain visible on the Alder blank so trying out the Colortone dyes (black/red). Initially was going to do all black to keep the focal point on the fret board. Got carried away and tried doing a red to black transition. Undecided if it works or just go all black now. Also, seems I'm getting a more washed out black when able to see the grain, pretty opaque and kind of splotchy otherwise. Debating to continue with this then seal it with water based satin poly, or sand it all back and spray gloss black paint and seal it with the clear satin. I've since sanded most of this back.


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## NickS (Aug 28, 2017)

It does look a little splotchy in places, but that might be fixed/evened out by the clear coat? I would say either try to get more of a gradual fade out from red to black (have the red extend farther out), or go all black. Though I do like the red on the inner part of the horn bevels too.


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## Grand Rabbit (Aug 28, 2017)

I think the stain looks fine, and the red is a nice touch as opposed to all black, especially the detail on the inner bevels, that came out looking great! Did you take this picture after it was 100% dry? Sometimes it looks splotchy while still somewhat damp. 

After drying, any remaining splotchiness is nothing that a sponge and some clean water can't take care of, and, imo, a better choice than going all black.


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## KR250 (Aug 28, 2017)

Thanks all so far, going to take another stab at it here shortly. Also, I was using water to dilute the dye, and instead just picked up some rubbing alcohol to use.


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## KR250 (Aug 30, 2017)

Re-applied the stains with limited success? Better blending and a bit darker at least. Used the General Finishes water based satin poly which I do really like working with, and a foam brush which was ok but not as good as spraying which I've done with the oil based poly's. This stuff dried and was sandable within an hour. I opted out of using epoxy as my base coat over the dyes since the Alder isn't really porous, but I can see all of the imperfections as a result now. 

Started to put it together after a light sanding of the finish, which definitely needs a complete re-work so I'll call this REV 1 until I get a chance to play it for a bit and see how plays/sounds. Also, I'm not so sure the color scheme works well with the PME fretboard. Seems a bit out of place compared to the lighter natural Alder color. Hmmmm... 

Well here is what it looks like so far as I'm wiring up the electronics. 





crappy cell phone, but can see more of the red here. The grain does show through in the red, hard to tell in this pic.





Threaded inserts broke during installation. Still go a fair amount of thread in there but I need to get the special installation tool next time. Going to use copper tape for shielding, but should have coated the pickup cavities.... will do that on REV 2. 





Flame suit is on, so fire away!


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## MikeNeal (Aug 30, 2017)

The installation tool is a life saver. And believe it or not, the slotted end actually goes down. It's not for a flathead.


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## KR250 (Aug 30, 2017)

MikeNeal said:


> The installation tool is a life saver. And believe it or not, the slotted end actually goes down. It's not for a flathead.



Haha, whoops! Off to Amazon now....


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## MikeNeal (Aug 30, 2017)

KR250 said:


> Haha, whoops! Off to Amazon now....


Haha yeah I've been there myself. A drill press is key for installing them as Well. I dont normally use them myself. For prototyping wood screws work good For me haha


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## J_Mac (Sep 1, 2017)

MikeNeal said:


> The installation tool is a life saver. And believe it or not, the slotted end actually goes down. It's not for a flathead.


Any chance of a weblink for the inserts and tool please fellas?


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## MikeNeal (Sep 1, 2017)

I get mine from fastenal here in Canada. But lots of guys get them from McMaster carr. 

For the installation tool. I use a long bolt that fits the insert. Cut the head off, then thread 2 nuts on and use them as jam nuts. Then you thread your sawed off bolt into the insert, use the drill press to keep constant pressure on the insert and use a wrench on the jam nut to install the insert. I'll try and snap some pictures


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## KR250 (Sep 1, 2017)

Thanks for the info. I bought mine off Amazon (and now currently unavailable). I went with metric M2.5 thread size which are hard to find. Can't find any installation tool for them so going to build my own using your method.


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## Petar Bogdanov (Sep 1, 2017)

Another option is to use those knurled inserts for plastic, slightly oversizing the hole and supergluing them in.


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## KR250 (Sep 2, 2017)

Cool, some good suggestions. The knurled inserts are probably also going to be way easier to install. Not sure if they are any more bulky than the threaded style, but I see the knurled ones much more available. 

Anyway, this build is coming towards the end of REV 1. I wired up all the electronics yesterday and rough cut the nut to plug it in and give it a quick test. Only put one string on it so far but was able to tune up the Evertune, set the action, and intonation quite easily. REALLY like how it sounds and feels so far. The Evertune is exactly what I was hoping for and quite impressed with it. One downside is that this guitar is quite heavy. The Body is 1.85" thick, and the top horn makes it a bit heavy on the top side which I could see while on my guitar-rotisserie. Planning to use the same design on a future build (maybe another Evertune, but was planning multi-scale). Will probably use a top and chamber the body if I go ET again. 

Copper shielding grounds all of the components to each other minus the bridge which is the black wire on the upper right that lands on one of the support screws in the bridge cavity. Simple wiring scheme, one volume, and one 3 way toggle. I haven't connected the ground to the shielding in the pickup cavities yet, or cut out the cavity cover plate which I'll use some dyed thin Rosewood for. 





Hoping to have it mostly completed by tonight. Maybe I can try a video of it.


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## KR250 (Sep 3, 2017)

Ok, last update on this build until REV 2. It's basically done with the exception of cutting out and screwing in the rear cavity plate (Rosewood), installing the strap locks, and finishing the nut slot height for perfect action height. I like it low and shoot for about .030 on my low A, and .010 on the high E at the first fret. It was close enough for testing at the moment. 

I strung it up, tuned, intonated and set action height and everything is damn near PERFECT. Really like the adjustments and feel of the bridge. Pretty intuitive to use after a few minutes of dinking around with it. Noticed a few little things with the bridge though, there is an every so slight amount of play in the bridge saddles side to side, and you really need to tune for which part of Zone 2 you play in as it can change ever so slightly as you move into zone 3. Minor stuff that I'll happily live with. Bending is still pretty natural when you set it right on the edge of zone 3, and it still stays in perfect tune while pressing hard. The intonation of this bridge really impresses me more than anything. I usually play in drop A (sometimes drop G) and getting enough travel on the saddle for good intonation is a challenge, this is perfect and still has some travel left.

The Instrumental pickups are awesome, and actually my first passive pickups in about 20 years. I became a convert after playing the SD Nazgul bridge pickup on my last build for a friend. 

Body shape is super comfy and have only minor adjustments to make to it. Neck is right about .78" thick at the thinnest and feels great. Fretboard has nothing on it, just sanded to 1500 and feels perfect. Strings are mostly parallel from nut to tuners, just a slight tweak on the high E and it'll be perfect. 

Next up is a 4 string bass build for a friend. I'll re-hash this one a bit more after that, then build a new clone with a nice book matched top, no dyes.


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## J_Mac (Sep 3, 2017)

Skills \m/


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## BetterOffShred (Sep 5, 2017)

Very cool guitar build dude, and your thread is very informational and full of inspiration for those of us still trying to make it up that first big hill! It looks like a fun guitar to play!


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## Kyle Jordan (Sep 23, 2017)

The body shape is gorgeous. I'd love to do something like that outline with Ibanez S style thinning towards the edges for a custom 8 string. Great work man.


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## Pikka Bird (Sep 23, 2017)

A note on the "installation tool" for threaded inserts: Just use a bolt and a nut with the same thread as your insert. Screw the nut onto the bolt > screw the bolt into the insert > tighten the nut against the insert > screw insert into body using the bolt. Then just hold the bolt and give the nut a little counterclockwise tug and the bolt unscrews easily. This is the same principle used on "real" installation tools, except this is dirt cheap.


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## KR250 (Sep 23, 2017)

Ah yeah, good point! I ended up buying the knurled insert types as I can't find the metric sized threaded style I want anymore. Going to dive back into this guitar in a few weeks after playing it a while now (hard to put it down). 

Punch list/observations so far:

Have been re-doing all of my Helix/Native and BIAS patches for the new pickups. Quite different than my other EMG equipped guitars. Overall liking the SFTY3's.
Evertune has changed my life! I think every guitar I build for myself will now have one. The bridge itself if very comfortable, when going back to my Hipshot's I can instantly feel all the sharp corners on the saddles (even while set fairly low). 
Weight, I need to shave a bunch off as a result of the thick body. Going to cut the backside down 3-5mm and revert from the recessed Evertune cavity plate. Next guitar will have a top and will add chambers into the body to help. Maybe a deeper bevel/carve on the edges as well. 
Neck heel can be carved even deeper I think. 
Not sure I'm digging the red coloring, except on the head stock. Going to sand back down and do just black, then a layer of epoxy, then try the water based satin again. 
Going to re-do the electronics cover using magnets instead of screws. 
Just side dots on a straight fretboard is my go-to now, anything multi-scale and going to add some type of top inlay.


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## KR250 (Feb 3, 2018)

Kicking an old thread again. I decided to swap out the SFTY3's for Nazgul/Sentient combo a while back. I think my bridge pickup location choice is too far forward for getting a really tight nasty sound, the Nazgul seemed to help a bit. Tweaking pole heights also made a huge difference, which of course I did after recording the below track. I'll put the SFTY3's in my next guitar with better placement. Probably also see if I can re-route the bridge pickup closer to the bridge and fill in the gap. 

All rhythms/solos/clean using this guitar. It plays amazing, but still evolving. 
https://open.spotify.com/artist/23lC3yScwui3Z0LRXqEGhZ


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## Deegatron (Feb 5, 2018)

MikeNeal said:


> I get mine from fastenal here in Canada. But lots of guys get them from McMaster carr.
> 
> For the installation tool. I use a long bolt that fits the insert. Cut the head off, then thread 2 nuts on and use them as jam nuts. Then you thread your sawed off bolt into the insert, use the drill press to keep constant pressure on the insert and use a wrench on the jam nut to install the insert. I'll try and snap some pictures



I use this same method only I remove the drive belt on the drill press and just turn the pulley by hand. you can get plenty of torque on it and it's easier than cramming a wrench into an already tight situation. YMMV


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