Questions About Stabilizing, Staining, Finishing Burl

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by Elmendorf, Nov 9, 2017.

  1. Elmendorf

    Elmendorf SS.org Regular

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    Hey Dudes.
    I'm a luthier in training who is also a full time freshman in college and I have some experience refinishing my guitars, primarily solid candy colors or finishing hardwood tops. I threw myself into the deep end and started building my very first guitar from scratch, a neck-thru telecaster. Everything has been fine and dandy so far, but I have some questions about finishing the body. I plan on putting a buckeye burl piece that I've had lying around onto the top. My plans were to Stabilize it with black resin, then dye the burl red. should I do it in that order? Finally, I was going to put a satin finish on it with tru-oil. Would I even get good results with tru-oil over burl and resin? Everything has gone smoothly so far and I look forward to sharing the results with you guys.

    Thanks, bros
     
  2. Lemonbaby

    Lemonbaby SS.org Regular

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    I don't think it makes sense to slap an oil finish over resin...
     
  3. Elmendorf

    Elmendorf SS.org Regular

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    Suggestions?
     
  4. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Put a couple layers of shellac in between?

    Or just test Tru oil over resin on scrap and see how it works.
     
  5. Lemonbaby

    Lemonbaby SS.org Regular

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    Although I try to avoid epoxy whenever I can, I know that many builders use it for pore-filling before spray painting. Should work perfectly fine when sanded lightly with a fine grit and painted with a satin 2K paint.
     
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  6. Elmendorf

    Elmendorf SS.org Regular

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    Thanks, dude. Ill try and put a picture up here once semester ends.
     
  7. JimF

    JimF SS.org Regular

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    I use stabilised wood quite a bit in knife building. Generally you can get the finish you need from the level you have sanded it to. Invest in some decent quality micromesh sanding sheets (its different to sandpaper and goes to 12,000 grit) and to get a mirror like finish I use a beeswax/carnauba mix afterwards, but if you just want a satin finish I'd suggest skipping that last stage. I normally buy stabilised blocks that are colourful enough so have not had to stain any yet, but I have tried using danish oil on a particularly dull piece of (slightly) birdseye maple, and whilst it did take it, it didn't feel like it was doing any more than sitting on the surface. It made the wood darker but didn't bring out the grain as much as it does when using it on 'normal' wood. Can't say that's categorical truth, but that's my experience.
     
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