Opinions on stain on a pyrographed guitar.

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by Ernesto, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    I just can't decide what to use to protect this guitar. At first, I was thinking of using very light colors to create a grass to sky to sunset kind of look but now I'm leaning towards a very light oil or satin finish. My mom put a ton of work into woodburning this body for me and I want to get it done asap but just can't seem to make up my mind. I constantly see beautiful guitars being produced by the members here and would love to hear your opinions!

    [​IMG]
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  2. M3CHK1LLA

    M3CHK1LLA angel sword guardian

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    pics not working for me
     
  3. Curt

    Curt SS.org Regular

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    Personally, after looking at it (anyone having trouble seeing the pics, hit the reply button and they will show in the quote preview) While I think you should stain it, I would do it with a slightly darker than the bare wood color stain just to make it a bit more aesthetically pleasing. It's a really pale and not overall attractive wood, but the wood burning is super nice.
     
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  4. Andrew Lloyd Webber

    Andrew Lloyd Webber Part-time Elon Musk impersonator

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    I would personally just tru-oil it, but I’m not a sentimental guy and this represents your mother.
     
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  5. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    I would take some aniline dyes , dilute them a LOT, and then mildly watercolor paint the whole thing. Make the tree just a little browner, make the background a little turquoise. Then a satin clear coat of some kind. Tru oil or whatever.

    Actually i think I would just do the turquoise background. The tree looks great as is.
     
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  6. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    This is what I keep coming back to.

    I saw this finish and thought if it was much lighter like you suggested, I could do green around the base of the tree, a very light brown on the tree, then blend from blue up into sunset colors. Finishing definitely isn't my strong point though and there's no turning back once I start.

    Thanks for the tip on aniline dyes. I didn't even know what to search for! earthskysun-guitarstain.jpg
     
  7. odibrom

    odibrom .

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    If you're adding colors, you're altering your mother's view/work. I say it's OK if you have a GO from her. In my view, I'd just finish it as clear as possible, the drawing is as good as it gets, so, do the least damage to it as possible. I say no stain at all, clear coat or oil finish and be done.

    Be careful with dyes, most are not light resistant and will fade away pretty fast. I think aniline dyes fall into these specs (but don't trust on me here). If you want permanent dyes, I'd search for ARTIST GRADE acrylic paint and solve it with water until the desired shade/fade is achieved. This should be tested in a similar piece of wood. If, for some reason you'll need a darker dye, just aply a second, third layer over it.

    Many dyes that are made for graphic design purposes, which means that they are good to do the work, then have the work scanned and after that the work is stored in a drawer of some sort, in total oblivion and light absent ambient.
     
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  8. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Trans tint or angelus leather dyes are good.
     
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  9. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    She's really cool. This is an experiment to see if there's a market for wood burned guitars so the only request that she had was not to put too dark of a brown on anything because it could hide the detail work. It's kind of a sentimental thing now that she's done the work and I'll have a hard time selling it but since that was the plan from the get go, it's what I'm going to do. I just wondered how many people would prefer a basic stain as opposed to those that think some color would sell better. So far, based upon posts here, a simple stain with no or a single very light color is winning.

    Since the wood is pasty white and doesn't have much grain, I keep thinking that some very light pastel stains would add more texture/depth to the look. I'm just worried that it's going to look like a 4 year old's fill in the lines watercolor coloring book if I mess it up!

    As far as light stability goes, seeing as it's a guitar and not a picnic table, I'm thinking that the colors will hold, especially if I put a uv stable satin clear over it.
    I found this dye kit on amazon and judging from the reviews, people are pretty happy with the colorfastness of the dyes.
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BAKWTMQ/?tag=sevenstringorg-20

    Thanks for taking the time to reply for sure!
     
  10. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    I should add that this will be put up for sale in a shop in Jerome, AZ so the crowd is more touristy/artsy than professional musiciany. I guess this is a way of saying that the target market might have tastes that could be considered a little more tacky than what you'd expect from people going into a high end music store. I can't figure out a synonym for tacky that doesn't have a negative connotation but if I could find one, I would have used it instead. Business and marketing really aren't my thing! lol!

    There's crow themed art all over town and it does really well. She just did the crow thing by chance, which is weird.
     
  11. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire ERG hoarder/pickup tester

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    Angelus leather dyes are colorfast and lightfast. Highly recommend em. You can do dye with tru oil and that'll seal it. I've done some pieces that way and had no fading yet (it's been like 2 years since i finished em). Spraymax 2k is the best clear i've used. Stay away from most home improvement polys, they're not very durable and have longer cure times than automotive polys
     
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  12. pondman

    pondman Build Whore. Contributor

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    Your not going to have control with dyes once they hit the timber. The best way of colouring that pic would be with something like Posca pens then clear coating. I did these guitars in a similar way but you obviously don't have to be so elaborate.

    [​IMG]IMG_1531 by

    [​IMG]IMG_1140 by

    [​IMG]salamander jem (10) by
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2018
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  13. odibrom

    odibrom .

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    @Ernesto If you're applying the dye on the wood by brush, test first. As my experience tells me, it has a tendency to overcome the previously designated limits. With some experience, if you keep the wood wet, you can add or remove pigment to the surface, only with the brush, but it requires some steady hand, good brushes and knowledge on painting/drawing techniques...

    Nevertheless, all paints and dyes should have a light resistance indicator of some sort. All pigment burns at sunlight and looses its color reflection properties, however some are more resistant than others. The paint/dye package should have info on the subject .
     
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  14. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    Those are epic!

    Do the posca pens let the wood grain show through if applied lightly or are they opaque?

    As far as stain leakage goes, I thought about using a clear coat pen and going over all of the wood burnt areas. I though that maybe this would form a barrier between the dies so they don't seep. If the dies seeped together a bit in the open areas, I don't think it would look too bad if I started with the darker colors. It looks like the dyes overlap on the PRS I posted and it looks pretty good to me.

    Another idea I had was to dust dye powder on dry, then do lots of really light spray coats that are so thin they flash before they can soak in.
     
  15. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    I figured that I'd start in out in the open spots and work my way towards borders, giving it time to soak and spread between laps around the perimeter. I've got a really steady hand when my neck's not killing me and am really patient but will definitely be practicing anything I want to try on scrap before I commit. I saved a chunk that I cut off of it so I can practice on the exact same wood.

    Thanks for the advice!
     
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  16. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    "kitsch"
     
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  17. odibrom

    odibrom .

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    Also, on this painting thing, if you need the paint/dye be a little thicker so it will not spread over the limits, there are lots of artist grade mediums to try out that will thicken the paint/dye and keep its transparency. Generally, white wood glue is water soluble and dries transparent (some do not) and can be used as a medium to solve/dilute the paint/dye. A varnish could also be used, however, both of these will create a skin over the wood that is water resistant (meaning it won't let water pass through), obviously depending on the solution used. Non permanent water soluble glues can also be used as mediums to thicken the paint/dye fluidity, but may add some color changes to the original source. Any of this methods do change the original color and will apear differently wet and dry (this is true to most water based paints/dyes). In order to achieve a specific result, tests must be made to accurately fine tune the formula.

    Do pay attention that if you use some oil based dye, you'll have to finish the guitar with some oil based finish. However, water based dyes will receive any finish over them. These are painting basic principles, which you probably already know of...
     
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  18. ElRay

    ElRay Mostly Harmless

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    ... and they won't, until Imgur changes their policy or the images are re-hosted.
     
  19. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    I've tried hosting pics at five different sights and they keep going under but imgur has been rock steady other than their no hot linking policy or whatever it is. Some bs to do with there being a classifieds section here and ingur not being for businesses.

    A work around to make old links work again, right click on , click "copy image location" and paste the link into your browser.

    https://i.imgur.com/ohwmlXn.jpg
    https://i.imgur.com/5vVojZf.jpg

    There's also a link to my imgur acct in my sig. I should be boycotting them but I just don't post enough to make it a priority.
     
  20. Ernesto

    Ernesto SS.org Regular

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    Great tips! Thanks for taking the time to type it out. I've painted and stained all kinds of stuff over the years but not regularly or consistently enough to remember all of the tricks. And the muscle memory seems to take a good warn up period each time too. I'll definitely do a few small scale experiments on a scrap piece to figure out the perfect technique and mixes.

    I decided I'm definitely watering down the aniline die to do the extremely light, grass to sunset theme and made peace with the fact that to get it as light as I want it to be, that it may come out a little blotchy, like a kid's water color but hopefully between the lines. If I do the brush splats right, I can put random patterns of lighter and darker concentrations in the different colors, so it will look more like a real landscape/sunset behind the pyrography.

    Once it's stained, I want to do a really light oil top coat to lock the color in and give it an antique look. I think it will go well with the brass hardware and trim, which I'll artificially age a little too.

    I think this color with the light stain behind it would make it perfect.

    https://gbmedia.azureedge.net/usercontent/gear/800301/p1_ujhk0j5dm_so.jpg
    [​IMG]
     
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