Oil finishes that don't color wood

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by kindsage, Oct 9, 2018.

  1. kindsage

    kindsage SS.org Regular

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    I just got a beautiful poplar jazzmaster body from warmoth and I love the natural sandy white color it has. I started to apply Tung oil to the back and the body color started to turn a bit yellow. I was wondering, are there any oils, or easily applied permanent finishes that are completely transparent? Possibly even UV resistant?

    Thanks all :wavey:
     
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  2. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Oil finishes are all going to yellow it. Water based poly is gonna be your best bet for non-yellowing finish.

    Buy some scraps of poplar and test first though.
     
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  3. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire despair ahead

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    yep, best bet is polyurethane if you want clear.
     
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  4. kindsage

    kindsage SS.org Regular

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    Noob question but, can you get a matte finish with a rub on poly?

    Suggestions for particular brands/types that you’ve had success with?
     
  5. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Yes you can. Just buy the matte poly (they usually come in gloss, satin/semigloss, matte/flat).

    Unfortunately the rub on or wipe on poly is usually oil based. I've tried wiping on water based ones but it doesn't work very well. You're better off buying a decent brush and brushing it on. Or spraying if you can.

    As to what brand to use, varathane is okay. There are some better ones out there but they are harder to find.

    Finishing is hard. Especially with water based. Truthfully the easiest finish you can do is tru oil or wipe on satin polyurethane (oil based), and wipe it on with soft cotton cloth. A little scrap each application. It will yellow the wood but it will come out with a nice surface.

    Be careful with oil based finishes and heed the warnings about spontaneous combustion. It is real.
     
  6. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire despair ahead

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    you can, but it depends on the particular poly. I'm not a fan of most hardware store polys, automotive polys are far more durable for essentially the same $. gloss polys would need to be worked down to a satin, so it's generally easier to just buy a satin poly from the get go. polycrylic is fine if you use it pretty sparingly (not particularly durable but cheap and easy to find). spraymax 2k is extremely durable, but kind of pricey and it's horrible for you. crystalac brite tone is also quite durable, but it's not that cheap. bullseye shellac would also work if you don't need a super durable finish, it's very easy to work with.
    spray finishes almost always come out looking better than brushed on ones ime. tru oil is basically just danish oil, but that's about as "clear" as tougher oil based finishes get (unless you just use mineral oil/wax, which doesn't protect very well).
     
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  7. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Listen to this man.

    I agree about the hardware store water based poly. They really aren't very good and are hard to get a good finish out of. I find varathane to be better than polycrylic, but still not all that good. Even sprayed.
     
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  8. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire despair ahead

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    yeah for people without access to spray guns, spraymax 2k and brite tone are about the best you can get ime (you can spray or brush brite tone though). I still want to try that solarez uv cured finish though..
     
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  9. kindsage

    kindsage SS.org Regular

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    I did some quick googling on spraymax finishing and it seems like pretty gnarly stuff. I don’t have a spray booth or really any finishing experience at all (other than tung oil) :lol:

    I’ll give the brite tone a shot :)

    Thank you for the help!
     
  10. Omzig

    Omzig SS.org Regular

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    Osmo do some White tinted wipe on oil/poly the tint isn't very strong and is there to counter act the yellowing from the oils (not sure if you guys can get it on your side of the pond though?)

    Reposted image from the WOYWB thread

    [​IMG]

    on quite white maple Right x3 coats of normal osmo polyx / left x 3 coats of white tint polyx


    Good brush on clears coats ive used are Rustins plastic coat and solarez

    The rustins is a x2 part cold cure lacquer,self leveling if you put it on with a good/fine brush & takes about 5 days to fully cure for flatting/buffing + its freaking bullet proof once fully cured (ask brian may)

    Solarez is great if you have lots of natural UV from bright sunny skies,The biggest tip id give anyone thinking of using it is thin before use with heat (i use a heated water bath (just don't get any water in the solarez)) if possible warm your work piece up a little as well and once you have a coat on don't touch it for at least and hour so it can self level,it is great stuff once you get the work flow down though,going from brushing on to flatting a clearcoat in under 2 hours is pretty mad.
     
  11. kindsage

    kindsage SS.org Regular

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    Wait, did you mean to say the right one is the white tinted osmo?
     
  12. Omzig

    Omzig SS.org Regular

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    Doh yep left is standard osmo right white tinted...lol where's the edit button ;)
     
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  13. neotronic

    neotronic SS.org Regular

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    Safflower oil doesn't have the yellow tint. But the finish is a but less durable than tung.
     

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