New Build: 8 string possibly single cut body...

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by DistinguishedPapyrus, Apr 8, 2013.

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  1. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    I live in a fairly small town so its not common to come across an 8 string guitar, so when one of the local music stores got a Schecter 8 string in I played it for about 10 mins and was hooked. I've had a 7 string for a couple years now and decided to make the switch to the 8. I don't have the cash right now for an 8 string but I do have some materials, tools and patience to take on a build.

    8 string
    26.5" scale
    wenge neck
    undecided on the fretboard wood so far
    multi-piece laminate red oak body painted solid color
    hipshot bridge
    DiMarzio pups

    Starting with the neck, its a 4 piece laminate of Wenge, just cause I'm paranoid of warping or I would've just used a single piece.
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    Got the scarf joint at about 11.5-12 degree angle.
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    This is the template I was planning to use for the body. It'll be several pieces of red oak laminated together, which will be kinda ugly but functional, and not to worry, I planned to do a solid color paint job anyway.
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    ... and the headstock shape. Kinda simple but I like the strings to pull over the top of the nut and go as straight as possible to the tuners. Just think it looks nice. [​IMG]

    I just started this yesterday so thats it for now. More to come soon.
     
  2. skeels

    skeels ..to pay the beels

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    You got a lot done in one day!

    I can tell this is not your first rodeo.

    :)

    Looks cool btw! Love the body shape!
     
  3. AwDeOh

    AwDeOh SS.org Regular

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    Those wenge glue joints are awesome man, I can't wait to see how the back of the neck looks when it's all carved out. Are you doing a volute?

    Also, neckthrough or bolt/set?
     
  4. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    The trick is to get the wood as flat and smooth as a sheet of glass. In the pics theres a slab of marble that I use to sand against. I stick some sand paper to the marble with mild spray adhesive and it gets the piece super flat after a few minutes of sanding. Then brush off the dust, spread some Titebond III and clamp the crap out of it for about an hour, it'll be a glue joint for life. The marble, spray glue, sand paper and Titebond all come from Lowes or Home Depot.

    I'm a little undecided about the volute, leaning toward yes, and planning to do a bolt on. I just like having the option to easily remove the neck if repair is ever needed.
     
  5. celticelk

    celticelk Enflamed with prayer

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    Good to see another oak build! I've got a figured white oak top and neck on my in-progress Peters 7. What color are you thinking to finish yours?
     
  6. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    The oak I'm using is nothing special and will be hideous if left natural, so I'm using it strictly for functionality and not aesthetics, so I'm thinking of wrapping the body in a light brown / mocha type color with metal flake.
     
  7. ElRay

    ElRay Mostly Harmless

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  8. AwDeOh

    AwDeOh SS.org Regular

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    Did anything in particular lead you to use Titebond III over the others, Papyrus? I'm sure I read somewhere that the original Titebond was more preferred over II/III, but I can't remember where I read that.
     
  9. ECGuitars

    ECGuitars SS.org Regular

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    Really dig your shape, like the A symmetrical bottom!
     
  10. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    Ehh... just cause the label says its practically a permanent glue joint, especially for something like neck laminates that you don't want to ever come apart.
     
  11. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    Heres a close up of the glue lines on the front of the neck just below the nut placement area. This is actually 4 pieces glued together, one line can be seen right down the middle, the rest are there but hard to see.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Berserker

    Berserker SS.org Regular

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    Titebond Original is generally preferred because it's not waterproof and you can use steam to unglue it. You've got no chance of ever getting a glue joint apart with III, which is a bitch if you ever need to replace the fretboard or remove a set neck.
     
  13. AwDeOh

    AwDeOh SS.org Regular

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    Ah, you learn something every day :)
     
  14. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    I had that same problem in my last build, I messed up the fretboard and had to remove it by grinding it off and turning the whole thing into sawdust.
     
  15. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    Todays update: started gluing up the body and picked a possible candidate for the fretboard.

    This is the wood for the body. A couple planks of red oak cut down to roughly the needed size for the body shape.
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    A piece of Bocote I've had sitting around for over a year now. I'm thinking about using this as the fretboard, with Wenge binding... maybe. Still trying to imagine if it'll go good with everything else.
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    Anybody know a better way to glue several large flat pieces together? This seems to work but its such a pain. I put every clamp I've got on this piece and its still got a bit of a gap.
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    You can see the gap between the top two pieces. Its not like I'm worried about it falling off or anything, but still...
    [​IMG]
     
  16. AwDeOh

    AwDeOh SS.org Regular

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    I've seen jigs in the past where big pieces of angle iron were used as cauls, with thin shims under the center areas, so that when all the pressure goes down on the angle iron at the outside, pressure goes to the center as well because of the shim causing bending of the iron.

    If that makes sense :)
     
  17. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    So I got the red oak glued up into a really solid body blank and realized why its not common to see a solid oak guitar. 1) its really heavy and 2) it has about as much tone as a block of clay. I'm thinking about switching to a different wood for the body before I totally commit to using this one. Possibly Poplar. Heres why: Its cheap, abundant, very easy to work with, glue, finish... etc., and the janka rating is around 500 (right between basswood at 410 and alder at 590 which are very common tone woods). So any thoughts?
     
  18. JaeSwift

    JaeSwift Of Blood and Sawdust

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    if you want to glue large pieces together, I find a good method is the ''screw on'' method. Draw an outline of the body shape on the top piece, place it centered on the bottom piece and drill holes around the outline of the top piece. Pre-drill holes in the same area on the bottom piece, apply glue, align the two pieces again and screw them together. Much more pressure than a lot of clamps and it's more mobile incase you have to move it around. The only downside is that you will have to carefully bandsaw around the body outline so that you dont hit the screws, because you won't be able to get them all out due to the glue.

    I've only used this method when applying a figured top to a thick body blank mind you. I don't see why it wouldnt work with a multi-thickness-laminated blank though; just use really strong, long screws and thick screws.
     
  19. DistinguishedPapyrus

    DistinguishedPapyrus SS.org Regular

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    ^ Yea I have tried something similar to this in the past, kinda dumb I didn't think to try it on this build.
     
  20. patata

    patata 7 heaven

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    Cool build,very clean.
    I would go with something more modern for the body though
     

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