Minwax wipe on clear satin Poly - Suitable for fretboards?

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by lewis, Dec 20, 2017.

  1. lewis

    lewis SS.org Regular

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    Im going to be planning an "Ebonize" day in the new year for probably at least 2 of my guitars and to make sure the stain remains consistent and true after months of use, I was going to clear coat it on to protect it from coming off on my fingers.

    Is the Minwax wipe on Poly suitable for this job?

    thanks
     
  2. Omzig

    Omzig SS.org Regular

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    Id grab a few of these Osmo polyx Sachet's from amazon at £1.40 (inc free del) 5ml each but should be enought to do atleast x3 coats of a fingerboard,those linked ones are the Graphite tinted polyx so will also leave behind a black tint in your open grains

    What are you using for the Ebonize'ing dye? i find Fiebings Leather Dye to be the best stuff to get a consistent blackness(i also pre treat with an iron acetate solution to get as much darkness out of the woods natural tannin as i can before using the dye).... just make sure you ware gloves as it will take weeks to come out of your skin!
     
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  3. lewis

    lewis SS.org Regular

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    firstly thanks for the osmo suggestion!! I will take a look at those the second Im done typing this.

    Regards to the dye, yes I was going to use the Fiebings dye ;) applied with a sponge brush thing. I was going to tape up from the side of the board because I dont need to dye the sides and risk it running onto the neck etc when only the front of the fretboard needs it.

    So im thinking:
    gloves
    Fiebings black dye
    sponge applicator
    naptha to prep the board?

    EDIT: So are these cool wipes literally a clear coat/poly type thing?.

    nice so its a hard wax? cool.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2017
  4. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    I've used minwax wipe on (actually diluted standard, but same thing) on a neck.and fretboard and it worked fine. I haven't used it a ton so I don't know how well it holds up to abuse but probably fine.
     
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  5. Omzig

    Omzig SS.org Regular

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    Hard floor wax yep nice stuff and has a great feel once cured.

    Sounds like your set to go

    BTW it's worth making up an iron acetate solution if you have a few days to wait for the polyx to come ,black tea/white vinegar/Washed wire wool (you don't want the oil on the ww on it so wash in hot water+dish soap)
    here's a pic of just the effect on the solution on a light RW fingerboard,it does give you a much darker starting point for the dye and takes just a few mins for the wood to react

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. lewis

    lewis SS.org Regular

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    This is extremely insightful. Thanks a lot dude!.
    So Naptha to clean and prep, then this Iron Acetate, and then what leave a few days then do the Fiebings dye?.

    And again another 24 hours or so and then use the osmo hard wax ?
    Sounds a really efficient process.
    I might document the entire process too and put up a thread showing the before and afters.

    EDIT:
    In my case its covering Roceacre boards (thermally treated Maple to look like rosewood)
     
  7. Omzig

    Omzig SS.org Regular

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    I doubt the black tea/iron acetate would help much on maple,the black tea is used to add extra tannin to the wood,and the iron acetate reacts with the tannin causing it to blacken not sure if heat treating effects it in anyway so Id say skip the tea/iron acetate for now unless you have piece's to test on first

    So yep your method is sound and pretty much what i do

    Mask/clean/prep with Naptha (lighter fluid in your local £1 shop) i use cotton buds to get right into the fret edges,if you have a really gunky board you can use an open face razor blade to give it a shave

    Fiebings dye (again i use cotton bubs there easier to work with and only hold just enough dye the sponges take on to much IMO)

    Leave 24 hours in a warm/dry/vented place then get an old cotton t-shirt (pref white) and buff off any excess dye

    Repeat Fiebings dye/drying buff off if it's patchy

    then follow the guide for the osmo polyx (basically wipe on let cure (repeat) buff ect ect)

    & Let us know how you get on ;)
     
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  8. lewis

    lewis SS.org Regular

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    Can I just say, thank you so much for the tip on the osmo sachets.
    It has worked wonders. I done about 3 or so coats of the fiebings dye. Then once it had dried, removed the dot inlays.
    Done 2 or so coats of the osmo sachet in onyx, then installed my new luminlay dot inlays.

    has worked an absolute charm because I had a week of playing on just the dried stain BEFORE I added the couple of coats of osmo, and in that time my fingers were going slightly black. But since the oil tint went on, its sealed the fretboard amazingly. Its BLAAAACK now too added some nice additional darkness to the Stain coats.

    -

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    So now I know the procedure, and that this works this well.
    Im going to do this same process on all my guitars (except my nice maple fretboard Jackson 7 string)
     
  9. Omzig

    Omzig SS.org Regular

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    Super work there lewis and thanks for the update :)

    I have a few osmo sachets in black and white to use on my Chi-banze ice-maiden neck refinish (neck rear has been rubbed back to raw wood (maple) and will get a white osmo polyx coat or 2,the fretboard on her is real ebony but its china grade/dyed to mask the bits of streaking it has,so it needs re-blacking and sealing,i shall update when i have pics :) was hopping to have it done by now but ive had some shitty Oz flu for the past few weeks so haven't really been able to get it done....

    Hows are the MS/FF HB btw ? i picked up a bstock Paradise flame PRS'ish type a few months back for like £130 inc postage from Germany and it's a super guitar,on par will any PRS SE ive ever played/owned id say.

    Laters :cheers:
     
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  10. lewis

    lewis SS.org Regular

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    Ah no!.

    Not that flu. I had that over Xmas. Was horrible. Get well soon.

    Yeah the fan frets are brilliant value for money. Like your experience, they feel more expensive than they are. Also perfect mod platforms.
    What I still need to do is sand the inlays smooth in places, use some wax wood filler and smooth to remove some slight tool marks where I was abit heavy handed, and scrap off some of the excess glue left over from them putting the frets in.

    Really happy with the stain/OSMO pairing though so thanks again for the heads up.
     

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