Lo trs 7 problem

Discussion in 'Pickups, Electronics & General Tech' started by dan0151, Dec 19, 2011.

  1. dan0151

    dan0151 SS.org Regular

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    Hi guys, I have a lo trs on my 7420 (yes i know there not very good) and the arm is very loose etc but also the insert on the top of the trem also moves but before i spend my hard earned dosh on a new trem is there anything that can be done on the cheap so to speak !!

    any ideas would be welcome
     
  2. AK DRAGON

    AK DRAGON Guitar Popcicle

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    Are you talking about the bar loose inside the insert? If that is the case then give the bar a wrap or two of scotch tape.

    if the insert is moving make sure the allen screw is tight (if it still moves you may be in trouble)
     
  3. nojyeloot

    nojyeloot SS.org Regular

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    You talking about the nut where the arm screws into being loose (see pic) causing the bar to either swing too loosely/being too rigid when screwed all the way down?

    [​IMG]

    This is mine and it does it on my 7420FM too :noplease:

    I've debated on somehow removing the nut, shaving the block down to give room for the #1269 assembly from Stewmac I want to put in there. Haven't committed to it yet b/c I'm not sure if the #1269 arm assembly will fit in the hole, that is if I can even get that nut removed.

    Make sense?
     
  4. dan0151

    dan0151 SS.org Regular

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    thats whats happening with mine....dont fancy doing all that machine work tho
     
  5. nojyeloot

    nojyeloot SS.org Regular

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    Ya, it's a BIG bummer.

    My buddy also had a Lo Trs that had the exact problem. What he did was took it to a luthier and had him put some J&B weld on it so seize up the loose nut. I personally didn't want to do this and am holding out on a better solution.

    That's what sucks about the Lo Trs, and also why I love the Lo Trs II. They have the arm assembly/arm with cuff that removes this problem. Which, subsequently, is what I wanted to convert mine to.
     
  6. nojyeloot

    nojyeloot SS.org Regular

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    Ya, it's a BIG bummer.

    My buddy also had a Lo Trs that had the exact problem. What he did was took it to a luthier and had him put some J&B weld on it so seize up the loose nut. I personally didn't want to do this and am holding out on a better solution.

    That's what sucks about the Lo Trs, and also why I love the Lo Trs II. They have the arm assembly/arm with cuff that removes this problem. Which, subsequently, is what I wanted to convert mine to.
     
  7. Konfyouzd

    Konfyouzd Dread-I Master Contributor

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    Does the OFR arm trick not work on the Lo TRSs too?
     
  8. dan0151

    dan0151 SS.org Regular

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    whats that ? ^
     
  9. Gyver

    Gyver SS.org Regular

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    It started happening on my Dean RC7G USA, The nut on mine looks like it can be removed, and a floyd regular arm can be added. Thats what im thinking of doing or original 7 floyd here I come. I dont understand why did rusty opt on such a shitty bridge for his USA sig.
     
  10. Konfyouzd

    Konfyouzd Dread-I Master Contributor

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  11. nojyeloot

    nojyeloot SS.org Regular

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    ^Not to my knowledge it doesn't. This is what I was mentioning that I wanted to do with mine.

    IF you could get the nut removed from the baseplate, you still have the block "blocking" your arm assembly from installing. You'd literally have to grind down the block to make room for the assembly (see my pic above).

    However, IF the hole in the base plate (right below the nut) is the right size (for the OFR arm assembly) then I'll DEFINITELY do it. Bummer is, the only way to find out is to remove the nut though, and I'm not ready to do that yet. It's a gamble. <-- this has been my big question I've had for a year now.
     
  12. dan0151

    dan0151 SS.org Regular

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    looking at this solution, it would mean i would need to buy a new block and OFR arm assy
     
  13. Konfyouzd

    Konfyouzd Dread-I Master Contributor

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    Oooh ok. I haven't had a Lo TRS since I sold my 7420 and 470 a few years back.

    When you say block are you talking about the sustain block? Isn't that thing aftermarket anyway?

    If the baseplates are similar to the Lo Pro Edge I have a spare brass block for that trem--the lo pro 7 that is.
     
  14. nojyeloot

    nojyeloot SS.org Regular

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    Right, it'd have to be a custom made block too. you'd probably have to send your current one to the vendor for sizing.

    Yes, sustain block, yes it's aftermarket, but it's the design that's the problem. Look at a Lo TRS II trem then look at mine, and you'll see the problem i'm describing.
     
  15. dan0151

    dan0151 SS.org Regular

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    thanks for the help, i will have to do a little research into sizes etc
    Konfyouzd thanks for the offer ..i'll keep it in mind.
    may have to chat up the mechanical workshop at work and see what they think, whether the block can just cut i just dont know
     
  16. Konfyouzd

    Konfyouzd Dread-I Master Contributor

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    @ nojyeloot - Right I see that. It looks like the block covers the area where the OFR assembly would normally have room to hang. That's the whole reason I asked about the block though. Wasn't sure if the stock ones covered that much real estate or not.
     
  17. nojyeloot

    nojyeloot SS.org Regular

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    Cool man, well PLEASE keep us updated on which direction you go.

    ESPECIALLY if you end up popping off that nut and putting an OFR arm assembly in there. I'd really really like to know if it'll fit.
     
  18. nojyeloot

    nojyeloot SS.org Regular

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    Right-O.

    Ya man, it's a bummer and a real flaw in the design of the Lo TRS. Anyone who really likes to wank on that trem (which is great initially) will wear it down and break that nut loose. So to fix it, you either weld/seal it, or you can risk removing it.

    Ya, the stock ones do, they're just not as girthy.
     
  19. Konfyouzd

    Konfyouzd Dread-I Master Contributor

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    Ahh I see.
     
  20. dan0151

    dan0151 SS.org Regular

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