LiveOVErdrive's consolidated build thread

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by LiveOVErdrive, Nov 6, 2017.

  1. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    MikeNeal had the right idea to throw all his build stuff in one thread. So I'm stealing that idea and running with it.

    I glued up a maple and basswood body blank last week without any real plans for it, then I woke up on Saturday and thought to myself "I'd really like an explorer shred stick". So here we are:

    IMG_20171105_223901_1509974416539.jpg

    Gonna throw an OFR and an EMG81 in there and call it a day. Should be fun.
     
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  2. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    Did the first of three layers of binding. I decided doing one at a time was probably going to be easier than multiples, as some people seem to do. By the end of this first layer I think I figured out my technique pretty well so the next two layers should be easier.

    IMG_20171108_185433.jpg

    I'm a little nervous using acetone indoors since the vapors are supposed to be really flammable and my shop doesn't have great ventilation. But I think at this scale it is probably safe. I just have a little glass jar of it open and am brushing it onto the bindings with a small artist brush.

    Somebody please correct me. In the worst case I'll work outside, but it's quickly becoming winter out there so I'd rather not. I suppose I could rig up a fume hood...
     
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  3. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    So the closer I get this body to finishing the more Im leaning toward just a natural clear finish on the top.

    IMG_20171109_171731_1510272133454.jpg

    Then again this surf and doom purple type thing are pretty sweet too.

    IMG_20171109_173542_1510272084749.jpg
     
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  4. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire 8 string hoarder

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    turquoise ftw
     
  5. MikeNeal

    MikeNeal SS.org Regular

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    turquoise x2
     
  6. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    I'm actually leaning toward purple since I already have a turquoise-with-black-hardware guitar (see my avatar). But turquoise would look amazing. We'll see. I've got a few more combos I want to try.
     
  7. Pikka Bird

    Pikka Bird Vaya Con Cornholio

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    That's an interesting shape for the pickup routs... Are you doing some custom recessed humbucker rings or what's the dealio?

    Also, you'll be fine with using acetone indoors short term, but if you wanna do binding regularly I'd suggest getting a hood and possibly a quality respirator (doesn't have to set you back a million- Wish has some good ones)
     
  8. pondman

    pondman Build Whore. Contributor

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    I think both of those would look great together as a burst.
     
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  9. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    On the acetone, I've got a 3m paint respirator that seems to work. I did the last two layers of binding in my garage with the door cracked, and that seemed to work really well.

    And yes that's exactly what is going on with the pickups. I'll have countersunk pickup mounts on the end so I can mount and adjust them traditionally but still have the low profile look of a direct mount. Gonna mill them out of either abs or maple. Might try both.

    Unfortunately I may have modeled my pickup hole a little too short. Fitting the bucker in there was a very tight fit. Might have to make some adjustments there.

    That sounds pretty cool. I'm gonna try that on some scrap.



    Here is the body all cleaned up:
    IMG_20171109_223944_1510326940412.jpg
    If you look on the right side, you'll notice the outermost black layer of binding is super thin. That's because my front and back milling jobs ended up a little bit out of alignment, so when I drum sanded the sides flush, my binding channel ended up narrower than I intended. I'll have to work smarter next time, and come up with a better alignment system than what in using now.

    Still looks okay though.
     
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  10. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    Hmmmmmmmmm

    IMG_20171110_171812_1510359321607.jpg

    Maybe a north-south fade

    I think I sanded back the blue sub-dye too much. It's a tricky process. Then again, the middle one doesn't have clearcoat, while the outer ones do, and it tends to pull that sub color out a bit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2017
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  11. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire 8 string hoarder

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    fades ftw. I'd try a purple or blue base stain, sand it back, then apply the turquoise over the sanded back layer. it'll give you a cool kind of prs northern lights vibe.
     
  12. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    The middle one and left one are a blue base, sanded back, and then gone over with the purple (and turquoise for the middle). I may have used a blue base on the right one too, but I don't think so.

    I wish I could get a little more color depth out of the purple and turquoise. Unfortunately those colors are just RIT dye, which does not penetrate as well as Aniline stuff (the blue is Transtint).

    I'll try a few more things. I have blue and red aniline dye. I might try mixing them to get purple, though color theory says that'll actually give me a kind of brown-purple. I know you can buy purple aniline dye, in the worst case.

    Does anyone know if they make turquoise aniline dye? I don't think I've seen any.
     
  13. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire 8 string hoarder

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    The only aniline turquoise dye I know of is the angelus leather dye. I highly recommend the angelus dyes, they're super rich/vibrant. you can mix your own turquoise out of blue/green dyes (use a little more green than blue and dilute mix to preferred color). The only way to get better depth is to do a couple of layers of blue or purple first to build up the proper contrast, then sand it back/apply the turqoise/fade it etc. Blue and red should be more of a purple than anything, if you add some yellow you'd get more of a brownish tint.
    Here's a purple to turquoise fade I experimented with (no clearcoat):
    [​IMG]
     
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  14. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    That purple does look pretty good.

    Theoretically red plus blue doesn't give as good a purple as cyan and magenta but clearly it is good enough, because that's really nice.

    Ill have to pick up some leather dyes.
     
  15. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    So I ordered some Angelus dyes. What kind of base do they have? The videos I've seen of people dying wood they just put it on dry wood and it looks a little blotchy. Can you wet the wood down first with water or DNA or something?
     
  16. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire 8 string hoarder

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    they're alcohol based dyes. The blotchiness is due to the grain of the wood or how they're applying it . I haven't had any issues with blotchiness with maple, walnut, bubinga or lacewood, though pine gets blotchy ime. Just don't linger in one spot too long with the dye and use DNA to blend/pull color as needed, also use less than you think with darker colors, especially purple/black.
     
  17. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    Awesome. This'll be fun.
     
  18. Walshy

    Walshy SS.org Regular

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    How are you getting on with your Shapeoko now you've had it a while, mate? Just wondering how much maintenance it needs between sessions, if any, and how much time it's saving you with certain processes.

    And do you use any kind of dust hood on it when it's running? I imagine it gets real messy otherwise.
     
  19. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    I've not had to do anything, maintenance wise, short of vacuuming it off and tightening some machine screws here and there. They say belt driven machines need maintenance but... I guess it is fine for now?

    In terms of dust collection, right now I stand by the thing and vacuum away the chips when it is working through a particularly chip-clearing pass (roughing and outline contour cuts). I just got some materials together to build a dust boot for the spindle, though. That should make things much better.

    But yes I love it. I'm able to build things so much more precisely than I would otherwise. And as I get better at modeling it definitely is faster too. It's a lot of fun.

    Edit: just looked up some basics and they say vacuum it regularly as well as wipe down the metal with lube, as well as clean your belts. I'll have to do some of that. I'm assuming I'll have to change the belts put at some point too but that shouldn't be too bad. The nice thing about the machine is that if any single part goes bad, replacing it isn't really that big a deal.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2017
  20. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive SS.org Regular

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    The dying begins!

    IMG_20171112_144521_1510519546841.jpg

    Ill sand this back and do the turquoise and purple next. But oh man does the transtint blue ever look. Good on its own.

    Now I gotta go kill some time playing pubg while I let this soak in and dry.
     
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