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Discussion in 'Gear & Equipment' started by Rev2010, Aug 26, 2010.
...I think you're missing my point...
no im not missing youre point, i just think youre wrong, theres no difference in tone. no matter what guitar you use, line 6 wouldnt be stupid enough to not test this stuff out.
I returned my G30 yesterday and upgraded to the G50. The first thing I noticed too was the flimsy battery door and the batteries did push the door open slightly. I'm sure the latch would not last long. I used the G30 for two live performances. After it was on for about 30 minutes it began cutting out on me every so often. The G50 is much more rugged and so far works perfectly. Also, in my opinion the G50 is much more true to life in the cable tone reproduction. If you can afford it, go with the G50.
The plastic lock for the battery compartment on my G30 broke at a show a few weeks ago - I've been tethered since.
I still have the pieces, and it's a small break but I don't think it's a quick fix. Does anyone have any suggestions? Aside from that the unit is fine :/
Well, I had a chance this weekend to use live the G50 that I bought when I returned the G30. Amazing tone, it's just too bad that it cut out and popped just like the G30 did. I used it on several amplifiers and guitars with the same result, although not as bad as the G30. I returned the G50 yesterday for a full refund. The sales person at GC told me the Shure and Sennheiser units do not have the issues that are being described with the Line 6 wireless units in this forum. I may fork out the money for the Sure PGX14 and give it a try.
Man that is a bummer. I've had the G50 for a couple of years now and used it for countless gigs never had cut out issues whatsoever. I did have popping issues at first using the supplied cable but once I switched to my Mogami and Canare cables that issue went away. Were you using the supplied cable? Hope the Shure works out for you.
Weird. I've now owned the G30 since it came out, a G50 briefly, and a G90 for the past few months. They all sound exactly the same to me and I've had no issues with any of them. Even the "flimsy" G30 has never been a problem and I've used that one the most.
My tech fixed my G30 with a couple dabs of superglue - damn excited to play Toronto on Thursday!
I've been using the G30 for ages. Doesn't affect my tone a single bit ( i did replace the shitty cable it came with).
I've a/b'd it with a lead and it's spot on, no compression whatsoever.
I have to agree with you on the crappy battery latch though - what a piece of shit!
I have my wireless Gaffa taped to hell and back on my guitar strap though so it doesn't bother me.
I have the G30 too for quite some time now. Never broke, works great so far. There is slight tone difference, but I`m not going to record with that thing anyway so screw that. Besides I don`t play in a band big enough that we would have enough time to get rid of every imperfection during soundcheck. We have around 10 minutes to get ready and play mostly. And I think that from all those things that can "fuck up" my tone live or more importantly the sound of whole band, G30 is somewhere in the last place.
IMO It`s an afordable unit and for the money you pay it excels.
I got my G30 right when they came out and I have had zero problems out of it and never noticed much of a tone difference. The cable that comes with it sucks so buy/make a new one ASAP. I gaff tape my receiver to my strap with the battery door facing up so there isn't much gravity trying to pull the batteries out although I've never had a problem there either. The G50's are very nice and I would like to try one if my G30 ever gives me any trouble.
Just like dunno, I can hear maybe a slight tone difference like a "compression" feel rather than a loss of tone. Who knows, it could just be my mind tricking me to think that?
My only complaint is the clip, that thing is an atrocity!
Did you guys take the clip off the pack to have the battery compartment face up?
Mine faces up by default.
@ victim5150. On the G30 I used the supplied cable, a Mogami and a Monster. On the G50 I only used the supplied cable with the same result and returned the unit. I believe Line 6 just has some issues that they have not sorted out yet or at the least has had a few bad runs in production.
I use lead free sauder, upgraded pots, Nuetrick locking jacks, gold tipped planet waves or Moggami plugs and proper shielding to help the guitars/bases stay clean. I'm thinking of going over the actual wire used in all of them and upgrading it also.
I have been using the G30 for a while now. While i haven't noticed any tone issues (that's not to say there aren't any), i have had dropouts in the past, and i have just started having difficulty with the battery door. I can't justify going out buying another wireless transmitter when i already have a perfectly manageable one, so i thought i would share with people what i have learnt about the G30...
1. The dropouts were due to interference from local wifi. The unit transmits on 2.4GHz, which most people will know is the standard for wifi. But what a lot of people don't know is that there are different channels of wifi. I downloaded an app called 'Wifi Analyser', and run it when i get to the venue on the night. Scroll to the 2.4GHz page, and you can see plain as day which channels are being used in the area. I then change my transmitter and receiver to a lesser-used channel. Since i have been doing this, i have had no dropouts.
2. Ah the battery door. There's really no forgiving this, but if you're in the same boat i am and can't justify a new unit, i have another fix that i haven't found elsewhere online. Yes, you can velcro the door shut etc, but i think a contributer to the problem is the battery prongs. Get an allen key or something similar, take the batteries out, and try and bend the prongs back upwards. This will create less free space inside the battery compartment, and allow the battery door to close fully on the batteries. Many battery powered devices have this same problem over extended use (tho mine certainly hasn't had 'extended use' yet). I've also found that manually operating the slide while closing the door (as opposed to just closing it), helped a lot as well.
Hope this helps someone
isnt some of these issues (plastic stuff breaking etc) the reason the g10 relay is actually a better unit than the 30 and 50?
literally plug and play with mute button for no pops and the base charges the unit? seems way better than the older style wireless stuff with battery covers snapping etc
I'm looking for a wireless system myself. Have tried G30, G50, Audio-Technica System 8, and a couple of other brands, but have always gone back to cable in the end. I guess not all guitarists are equally "touchy" with the change in sound, different wireless systems provides. And it is not equally audible in all setups either. How are you actually testing the wireless systems? I am building guitar effects myself, and I'm extremely picky with components in my signal chain. A bypassed BOSS pedal is already altering the sound, and it cut's out some of the soft low end. It might not be directly put-a-finger-on-it-audible, when playing, but it is definitely "feel-able", at least for me. And by my opinion BOSS is actually buffering the signal, in the least altering manner possible I know; it is done through a single MOSFET, in the designs I have checked at least, so there are only much more radical buffered effects out there. My point is: Are you are running through bypassed buffered effects, and trying to A/B test your wireless system, to try to hear how it alters your clean guitar signal? Then you are testing more than one thing at a time; the things your are listening for, might already be gone or altered, before it gets to the wireless system. A passive A/B switch, to test things like that is the most bulletproof way, I know to reveal components in the signal chain, that is coloring the sound in unwanted manners. Shifting cables back and forth won't make a good A/B test either, as it is virtually impossible to remember a specific sound for the seconds it takes to change the cables. And I'm NOT trying to sell a passive A/B switch It can be made with a 4PDT switch, 6 female jacks, some wire, and a chassis. I can draw a diagram and upload it, if someone wants it!
I wanna know what cheap Nady system your were using that had no audible difference. I had a couple of the sub-$100 units just for walking around the house and they were noisy, compressed, got interference from EVERYTHING (like standard electrical items like incandescent lamps and toasters), aside from falling apart at the cables for no reason and eating batteries.