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Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by asilayamazing, May 12, 2012.
i have silicone caulking and latex with silicone caulking which should i use and how?
Either one will get you the same results.
If you want a non "permanent" seal, you can use some rubber window gasket material from the hardware store.
But I hate open back cabs so I would just use the silcone. I would not rely on the caulking alone, use some screws too.
thanks ya i havent put the screws in until i sealed it. so should i apply the silicone then screw it shut or wait to dry then screw shut?
the silicone will glue it basically right? but i could always take the jack plate off and pull the back off or no?
The silicone will be mediocre as a glue for speaker cabs. It really just fills up the gaps to make a seal. It would not be very durable by itself.
When I build speaker cabs, I use screws, wood glue, and caulk all the seams of the cab interior.
EDIT: Nevermind, I read "steal" instead of "seal".
ya i built it already lol got screw wood glue finger joints im just trying to seal it, so apply to the inside seems, and the back bracing before screwing the back panel on or let dry first?
LOL now I believe I finally understand the question.
If you use the caulking I would let it dry first. I would probably use a foam or rubberized gasket, (weather stripping) if I'm picturing the right thing.
I'm picturing the detachable back panel of a sealed box attaching to the cabinet via recessed braces in the rear. Have I finally got the picture right?
Yes! removable pack panel via screws attached to interior bracing. so i got some weatherstripping that was my first idea. so use that on the back bracing for the back panel and line the inside seams and baffle seam with silicone?
ya they're so heavy i would need a good plan...
Apart from the seals, especially if this is a larger 4x12/10 box, do yourself the favour of adding a tribble cross beam, connecting front-rear, side-side, and top-buttom.
Simply start with the front-to-rear, and add the other two, making sure they're all connected and glued at the centre junction.
Reason is that boxes have a lot of vibration, which contributes/colorizes the tone audibly.
Sometimes the chosen woods may actually colorize in a desired way, as this isn't hifi/studio, but applied tone quest , but still, quite often the commonly used plywood wasn't exactly chosen for having exquisite tonal properties
Also, make sure to use a sufficient gauge electric wire from jack to speakers; I've seen many cases with rather thin wire, which isn't too good for carrying the currents from amp to speakers.
From this point, you can start experimenting with none or some damping material, depending on how much ressonance you desire.
Again, this is not hifi/studio, but I stil believe many guitar/bass boxens were made the way the were because it's cheap production.
You may (virtually) spank me for my attitude..
First, you won't get the full effect of a closed or sealed cab anyway, which is the massive bass and thump! It does help a little if you do what you are saying but it will be open just enuff to hinder the sealed cab effect while simultaneously choking off the vent of the amp.
so does anyone want to tell me how to seal this cab then? im trying to get the sealed sound... put the silicone on the inside bracing then screw or what? all the joints are tight, how do i seal the back?
This I just don't understand. If the box is sealed, the connectors/jacks are mounted tight, the handles mounted tight, no holes in the speaker cones et al..., the damn thingy will effectively be a sealed box
agreed, theres plenty o cabinets with removable backs that sound great mesa, marshall, avatar etc.