Floyd Rose Repair

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by RadSci, Apr 1, 2016.

  1. RadSci

    RadSci SS.org Regular

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    Mar 24, 2016
    Boone, NC
    Hi all, first post. I broke the Floyd on a seven a couple months ago, and was wondering what my repair options are. The piece that broke was the actual connector where you screw on the arm. I realize it broke because I didn't have it screwed on all the way like a fool. At this point I'm wondering if the guitar is worth fixing or not because it's an Agile. I was pretty sure those got pretty cheap on the resale market. Also I'll be trying to sell a Randall V2 with XL cab and footpedal, once I can post to the classified section.

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  2. GuitarBizarre

    GuitarBizarre Listen to physics.

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    Oct 8, 2008
    Manchester, UK
    Easy to replace, cheap to buy. All you need is a 3mm hex key and maybe a screwdriver.

    The part you're looking for is called an Original Floyd Rose Arm Coupling Kit. You can buy it with a complete new arm or separately for under $10.

    Loosen and take the strings out of the bridge, pop the springs off the claw in the back of the guitar and lift the tremolo out of the body. (Try not to spin your trem posts in the process, or your action will change when you put it back) Take your 3mm hex wrench and take the screw out of the bottom of the current arm holder. Once it's out you should be able to just pull the "Coupler" off from the bottom and pull the arm holder itself out of the hole in the base plate from the top of the tremolo. Might take some wiggling to get it out, due to the ridges I'll mention in a minute.

    Once that's done, just take your new holder and do the steps in reverse - Arm holder in from the top, coupler on from the bottom, and screw in the 3mm Hex Screw to hold them both together. Re-attached springs and strings, done.

    The only thing you have to worry about is the knurled/ridged area on the arm holder - you can see it in this picture: https://www.thomann.de/pics/bdb/352768/9398072_800.jpg

    Make sure that's fitting into the baseplate and not sitting on top of it - it's there to provide a friction fit between the holder and the baseplate. Without it things could move around unpredictably. Realistically, the 3mm screw should pull it into the baseplate and do your job for you, but sometimes they're stubborn and you'll need to force it into the hole with your thumb as you tighten the 3mm.

    Someone might point out you don't need to take the trem off the guitar to do this - you can fiddle through the cavity with your hex and fingers if you want to, but for me, it's less of a PITA to just pull the trem, rather than working around the rest of your guitar body.
  3. Pikka Bird

    Pikka Bird Vaya Con Cornholio

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    Sep 3, 2009
    Odense; Denmark
    ^All of that is true. I only have one addendum: I swapped the one on my FR-1000 Series for a Schaller socket + arm, and the stock one was really tight in the hole, so at first I thought it had been pressed in with a hydraulic kajigger. But don't give up if that happens to you. Give it some light taps with a hammer and it'll come out with no trouble.

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