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Discussion in 'Pickups, Electronics & General Tech' started by Acatalepsy, Apr 12, 2010.
I used this.
New Chrome 81 installed Rawk!
Super dumb question coming up but please bare with me as I have never attempted to switch EMG pickups before.....
I have a LTD SC-607B with the stock 81-7 pick ups, but I am considering picking up a 707 for the Neck pu. Now....With this 'quick connect' system...All I have to do is take out and unhook the old pick up and simply plug the new one in?
Sorry for being dumb but I just want to know before I try something hat I have never done before and mess everything up haha
So I recently bought two 808Xs and was super excited about this solderless connect system, since I've never soldered anything in my life, let alone changed out a pickup. Come to find out the only way you really don't have to solder anything is by paying EMG another $45 for the pup selector switch?
I discovered I was also going to have to solder my output jack since the RG8 has a barrel style jack, so I actually went out and bought a soldering iron and some solder to do it myself. How hard can it be right? Then I discovered the switch issue and just too frustrated to even mess with it. Pay EMG to send me a switch and then still need to solder the jack, or pay someone else about the same money to do all of this shit for me? I'd kinda like to learn how to do it, but I'd also like a working instrument lol.
I just picked up an LTD EC-407 with the 707 81-7 combo and thought about ditching the 81 and replacing it with the 707 in the bridge position as well
Anyone noticed the EMG web site is downright unusable today? Is it just me?
Anyone here installed the Ernie ball 3-way blade pickup-switch with 808's ?? Can't find a wiring diagram for the 3-way. So if anyone has done this and would like to share with me a picture of the wiring i would be happy as a really happy thing.
THE EMG 808 FIX
To me, this is the most important innovation and discovery for the ERG/8 string guitar with active pickups. I read and researched all over on how to solve the muddiness of the EMG 808. It is not very clear with high gain as many say. The bass is very promiment and drowns out the high end, the low end is too bassy and boomy. Simply put, there is not enough clarity in the high end, and it lacks definition in the treble area, so I am the first to have pioneered and discovered THE EMG 808 FIX and I wish to share it with all of you, free of charge lol!!! Its quite simple:
EMG Resonant Peak Control
The RPC is a variable active control that boosts the high frequency response up to 6 dB at 4000 Hz, while simultaneously reducing low frequency response. Its potentiometer controlled circuitry allows you to sweep from natural sound to accentuated highs typical of single-coil pickups. Like the EMG-SPC, it can be wired to one pickup or at the output of the guitar.
so there you have it. Anyone with the emg 808's in their 8 string who want more clarity, brightness, and high end in their tone, and/or want to cut out the boomy, bassy, low end a bit, you now have your fix. forget the 18v mod, forget wasting money on another pickup, whether active or passive, this little knob is the answer to your problems.
best part is: there is no routing required, no big adjustements, and no big cost whatsoever. its only $50 bucks. you simply replace the tone knob (which will be set at 10 when you remove it) with the RPC knob. done. The pickup game has now changed and its very affordable
Just a question about the white EMG 808x guys..
I just bought a white EMG 808x but the product inside does not have the "X" on the logo of the cover, it's just indicated as "EMG", but in the tags, serial numbers, sticker tags behind the pickup itself says it's EMG 808x..
Here's the pics:
Clearly indicated only "EMG" without the "X"
Here's the box with tags clearly stating it's an EMG 808x White
Is it a misbranding? or it's the fault of EMG? I'm guessing that it's only a white EMG 808 not an 808x and it just slipped through the quality control of EMG's factory..
When I contacted the distributor here, they stated that the new EMG X series designs for 808x does not have the "X" mark now, they said that the ones with the "EMG X" on the cover are the old design..
Is this true guys? please help me =(
By the way guys, I'm from the Philippines..
Hello there guys, has anyone seen a frequency response graph for EMGs?
I did a google search, but couldn't find any after 3 results pages, so they don't exist apparently.
I'm trying to get a better idea of how an 57/66 Combo would compare to a Häussel Tozz B XL / VIN+ N A2. I played a guitar with the Tozz and I didn't like it at all, but the wood combination in that one was way off of what my future custom will have. I keep reading that they are the shit, but I don't get it, and the engineer in me is looking for a theoretical comparison
I think every X EMG has the X in the logo. A simple search in the EMG webpage and you can see that the 808X has the X indeed.
808X in EMG webpage
If you look for Tosin Abasi EMG in youtube, you can clearly see the X in the logo of his pickups.
Maybe your dealer is correct and the new ones doesn't have the X, but seems quite strange to me.
Did the packaging arrived opened?. Was it shrinkwrapped?
Try sending an email to EMG. They tend to answer and are great at customer support.
I made a thread without seeing this sticky.. so I'll just paste the OP here. Sorry guyzzzzz...
So, right now I have an LTD JM-500. Yeah, its a bass. Currently all the electronics are stock; 2x EMG 40HZ pickups, one master vol, one pickup blend, and the B-64 3 band EQ, so five knobs total.
What I want to do first and foremost is swap the pickups, but I would also like to change the pickup blend to a 3 way toggle switch (like a guitar), god knows why basses have blend knobs and guitars have switches... but anyway... also, the bridge pickup will be a 40TW which means a push/pull volume pot for coil tapping and more wires.
I drew up a diagram (MS paint yeeeeaahhh) to what I think the wiring should be. Ive done 2 emg pickup system swaps before, including a TW system, but never anything quite this complex, so I need a pro to check over the image just to confirm its correct...
here it is..
Notes: That long thing all the way over the right is the EQ system, (really sorry for the horrendous drawing ) and from what I can see on the bass, apart from the output and power, it only needs a + and - input for the signal, so i thought that should go last.
Here's the bass in question and what the controls will be:
Thanks to anyone who takes the time to help me out.
Hey guys. I just purchased me some new pups for my Schecter Omen 7 Extreme. I went for a 707TWX (as I love using the coiltap function) in the bridge, and 81-7X in the neck. I've heard different things about these pickups i.e orientation an wiring etc, but still interested to hear more views on it.
Basically I'm looking for some advice and help on installing these. Wiring is no problem thanks to EMGs solderless connectivity. My main issue is rerouting the existing pickup cavity. Not really a problem either as such, but mainly because the pickup cavity is deep and I'll need to now how to get as close to my strings as possible.
Any help would be appreciate guys.
Much love x
I take it that you haven't done anything to the guitar yet? Ie strings still on and set up as normal with the pickup etc? If so, if you action is set then get a metal ruler and measure from the top of the body to the bottom of the string as close to the bridge pick up as possible, measure the new pup for its height (dont worry about the wiring yet, eg the prongs under the emg pup) then add the distance you want the emg pup off the string (say 2-3mm), minus the first string height (from body to string) from your pup and space measurment and that will give you the depth you have to route it too, do the same for the neck and bingo. Thats how much you have to take out to get the right height. Route to that depth then make a channel for the wiring. Hope that makes sense
I have a 707 and a 81-7 in my rg7620, I added tone and vol pots for each in the body (4 pots all up), im wondering when you take the tone pots out so its only volume is it like having the tone set to full (10)? If that makes sense? Im thinking of pulling the tone pots out and adding a PA-2 switch for boost in one of the spots and a 9V to 18V DPDT switch in the other. Then try and source 2 push pull pots for the vols so I have pull for tone and push for vol if that makes sense but this might not be worth it...?
Any help will be great! PM if you can as it will be easier to track down rather that in this massive thread
I'll keep this here anyway, it might be of information for someone..
Yeah removing the tone from the circuit should result in "tone on full" effect, and with passives it brightens up the tone just a tiny bit as the tone creates a bit of load on the pickup.
I'm not sure what you're trying to achieve with the "pull for tone, push for vol" configuration. The pot taper and the switch underneath are completely separate devices unless one connects the switch prongs and the pot legs, but even then it would not be like using a concentric pot with two separate tapers. I'd suggest you drop the DPDT switch for 9v/18v operation and use a push-pull instead, as it's the same thing really, and leave one hole for a single master tone control. I suppose just one push-pull is needed
So I can't get vol and tone out of a 25k push pull pot? The reason for this setup is that I like having the 81-7's tone pot rolled back a bit for everything, say to around 7-8 to take out that mid spike the EMG 81-7 has. I don't really need it for the 707 in the neck as its dark enough on full tone. So what I need is a concentric pot that has 2 tapers for the 81-7B? Im not the best with electronics, I can wire/solder to a diagram no dramas, but the rest I'm still learning.
EMG RPC would give much more clarity and brightness to cut through any muddiness over the 18v mod
Just got my brand new ESP Horizon FR7... and I also bought an EMG Afterburner to install (replacing the tone pot) on the guitar.
Well, turns out the whole electronics inside the guitar are soldered (weird? I thought everyone was using solderless), and the Afterburner is all "solderless-ready". How do I make this work?
Congrats on the Horizon, that is one sweet guitar. All my LTDs also came with soldered EMGs, which I found really weird but I'd say is a stock issue for ESP. If they started stocking solderless EMGs it would probably drive the prices up and create an overstock of tone pots, as pretty much none of their guitars have 2 tone pots. The solderless bus also takes space in the cavity, and I'm guessing they don't like that as well.
To your question: the AB should have some soldering pads you should be able to use. it'd be a matter of soldering 4 cables, namely the battery, output of volume pot, output to jack and ground. If it doesn't have soldering pads you could try finding a 4-wire Molex conector.
Thanks! Yeah, it's a sweet guitar, for sure, I can't deny it, it just plays like butter, and it feels a lot better than my Jackson USA Select KV-2.
I was thinking... I've set the AB with the solderless plugs all along, and I was thinking maybe I could cut the ends that will be soldered to the "old school" volume pot, and do the same for everything. I can actually connect the jack and ground to the output jack since the jack will accept the connectors. It's a matter of chopping the solderless ends that will be soldered into the previous stuff. Will that work?