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Discussion in 'Pickups, Electronics & General Tech' started by Acatalepsy, Apr 12, 2010.
Sorry for the later reply, but yes. Just connect the jack wire to the middle set of pins on the volume pot to bypass the tone pot.
I'm still having some trouble with this. First, the output cable is too short and won't reach the volume pot, but I've already contacted EMG support and they said they would send me a longer cable... I'm still waiting for that.
But I made all the connections to test the pickups. I connected the guitar and gave some taps on the pickups with the screwdriver but no sound was coming out of them. Here's a picture of what I did.
Have I done something terribly wrong? ...please help.
First off, you can make the jack connector wire longer by using another one of the regular connector wires to make the jack wire longer. You'll need to cut the black connector pieces off the end of your jack cable and one end of the ends of the connector cable. Strip enough of the ends of the black and white inner wires together and cover each connection with heat shrink tubing.
The other things it could be is I notice that your red wire from the switch to the switch buss X I can see the insulated white inner wire that makes contact on the switch, but where is the bare wire part of that wire? Do you have both the inner insulated and outer bare wire connected in the switch buss terminal? Where is the bare wire from that red one on the switch end?
Is your swich grounded? The switch should be, and the bridge ground should NOT be connected to the ground terminal of the switch buss.
If you can, please post another few pics at different angle so I can see what wires are clearly going to and from where in order for me to properly diagnose it.
Also, the switch is a 3-way correct and not a 5-way? Just asking and making sure on that. But otherwise, the only other thing I could say it is would be a bad switch buss. These switch busses are known to be problematic, and I instead prefer the solderless 3-way and 5-way switches. They work better than the switch buss does, and it keeps everything solderless unless you want something custom wired with an EMG/active system...
But definitely post a few more pics if you can. After trying to diagnose that the wiring is correct, then I would try another switch buss.
EDIT: Here is the link to another thread that explains in-depth as to how to extend your jack wire and still keep it solderless...
Scroll down to reply #15, as it has the in-depth details you need to do this and pics for this process as well. If you don't feel like soldering it or can't/don't know how to solder, then either have a friend who can solder do it for you, or just wait for the new cable to show up.
Hey guys, just bought a 707x and 81-7x to replace the 707 and 81-7 in my LTD H-1007 guitar. And so am I reading this right, I need to replace my existing tone pot with the one that came with these pickups? I don't have my guitar with me to open it up and take a look, but how difficult is that? Do I need to do any sodering at all? Thanks!
Nah, you won't need to solder anything, especially since both pickups came with all new parts. You'll wire everything as described for the 2 humbucker, 1 volume, 1 tone set-up. To wire the active tone control, you'll wire the input connector cable with the connector reversed - arrow on the bottom instead of on top. Whe you look at the wires, they should be : white-black-black-white-red. This particular active tone control is wired with the input and output grounds side by side, with the signal input and output wires on the outside of them. The red wire which is your power wire will plug into the switch buss's power section where the pickups power wires plug into.
A friend of mine has an 808X in his 8-string with just a single volume, a 9-18V switch and the volume going right to the jack. So while it's recommended that you use the active tone control with the X-series, you can get away with not using it as well, especially if you wire your guitar with the 2 volumes - 1 for each pickup which is nice for getting that sweet spot in the middle position using both pickups...
I replied using my phone, but as long as you got the pickups new, they should come with everything and the diagram sheet. Just follow it as it shows - which is very easy - you'll have no issue wiring it. But if you need any other help, just ask!!!
Thanks for the quick response! Took a look in the guitar cavity though and everything in there was soldered so looks like I need to take everything out except pickup selector switch and at a minimum will need to solder that. Take a look below.
Does the active tone make that big of a difference? I'm really just feeling lazy and wanted to do the quick connect on the pickup but if it makes that much of a difference tonally than I probably need to do everything.
I say it doesn't make much of a difference (and if you keep it on full all the time, it doesn't make any difference). If you're feeling handy some day, you might want to try to solder a larger capacitor (as in larger value) in place of the stock green one, to obtain some tone control. I use a .47 uF found in Duncan's Blackouts sets, it's ok.
What the active tone does well, is drain the battery. One active tone has the battery life of 250h, whereas one EMG pickup rocks on for approx 3000h.
Yeah, I absolutely never touch the tone knob on my guitars. It's always at full. Thanks for the info.
Straight from Rick at EMG:
You can use the passive tone pot if you like, but the VLPF will have a little more of an effect. But if it were me, I’d be lazy too!
Hope this helps.
It is true that the active tone control does consume more battery power, you can just swap the pickups themselves and leave everything else alone wiring and components wise. The other thing I was gonna say/suggest was gonna be that you can wire the new solderless pots as independent volume controls. This way, you can have a volume for each pickup, allowing you to blend both pickups together in the middle position for that "sweet spot" of tone with both pickups... This has become a new favorite control set-up for me, especially since I hardly ever use the neck pickup. But by doing this, I am starting to use the neck pickup a lot more often.
Just some food for thought...
Put the X's in this weekend without changing anything else out and the tonal difference is subtle but definitely noticeable. I really like the way they sound. I still like to roll the volume knob back to 8 or 9 when playing clean on the neck pickup, but overall, they definitely sound better to me.
Does anyone have idea's to mount 707's without using foam behind the pickup? I thought of stealing the 3rd piece of foam from my NT-7s pickups, but decided against it.
Finally got around to doing the 18v mod on my Schecter Hellraiser C-8 - holy shit! Why did it take me so long to get around to doing this?!
I simply snipped the -ve wire coming out of the battery cavity and spliced in another 9v clip with the -ve to the guitar and +ve towards the original battery clip, covered the joins in heatshrink and the second battery just fit right into that control cavity with no problems.
Everyone with EMG 808s should be doing this mod - it makes a big difference. The sound is much more open and dynamic than previously. It no longer sounds like it's been run through a compressor. Highly recommended!
lace deathbar or 808x need help
Has anybody had a EMG just die on them? I have a 81 from a old ZW set in a single pickup guitar.It`s been in there for years and just acted funny last time I played it like a dead battery then just died completely now.I changed and checked battery voltage, checked wiring to see if something had come loose.If I run the cord jack in only partially I get a faint clean signal only on a high gain setting clean channel signal is not audible. Installed the 85 from the same set and boom works like a champ.The pickup acts like something internal shorted or went wrong? I`m running it 9V only. Just curious if this has happened to anyone else or if it`s known to happen?
Dodgy wire or wired the wrong way?
Use a multimeter to check for continuity and take a dc resistance reading. That should give you something to go on. I'm not sure what kind of resistance actives usually run, but I'm sure someone else around here will know.
damn, would do a switchable 9-18 mod if there was enough room in the control cavity...hmm, wait a second, whoever uses a tone pot anyway, right?
edit: would you be kind enough to point me to a schematic for wiring the switch?