Douglas Hadron 727 Refinishing Project

Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by Defyantly, Dec 3, 2018.

  1. Defyantly

    Defyantly SS.org Regular

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    So I'm finally getting around to starting on this refinishing/revamping process for my Douglas Hadron 727 :woot:. If any of you saw my NGD for this guitar you would have seen that there were a few things that I didn't like about the guitar, but trust me I have big plans for it. As for right now the guitar has been disassembled and I have started trying to sand away the clear coat that pretty much covers this entire guitar (including all the cavities :wallbash:).

    One of the weird things that I noticed when I disassemble the guitar was the markings on the tuners. The top pics are in ascending order of strings 7,6,5,4,3,2,1. The tuners themselves were marked RH (right hand I assume) and differing numbers of 1, 2, and 3. but these were in almost no coherent order which I would have assumed would have meant they were for specific strings, but I digress I will be changing these to black schallers or shaller-types anyway. I started sanding with 80 grit on the back just to see how my little mouse sander would work, and it did pretty well but I have found that Douglas either used a stain or a light oil finish on the wood so I have to sand that off as well to get down to that natural mahogany. I am also still not sure as to what type of wood the stringers are in the neck and body. It almost looks like rosewood but its a little too dark IMO maybe ebony of wendge. The 80 grit seemed to take a long time to actually get down to bare wood so I might pick up some 60 grit to power through it and just buff out the scratches when I start to smooth it out for finishing.

    Speaking of finishing I intend to use the black stunning stains from Crimson guitars and their finishing oil for a nice oil finish. Does anyone have any experience with these? I want to do almost a black burst with the back and sides being really dark and the fade to almost a grey in the center.

    Other plans for the guitar are:
    Black hardware
    Stainless steel re-fret
    Blocked black Floyd trem
    possibly shaping blocks for the neck and middle PU and covering with a veneer and installing a white bridge PU (suggestions welcome)
    eliminating tone knob and blade switch
    kill-switch install
    deepen neck carve
    deepen upper and lower horn cutaways
    thin out the body around the sides (weight relief, almost to Ibanez s-series shape)
    more pronounce belly carve
    re-bind the neck with white instead of ivory + luminlay side dots
    reshape neck to a thinner shape

    I'm sure some of these ideas will change as the project progresses. I am still learning so please be gentle but all recommendations a criticisms are welcome. Since my schedule is pretty busy Ill do my best to keep this as up to date as I can. As always thanks for reading!! :cheers:
     
  2. Defyantly

    Defyantly SS.org Regular

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    So I'm slowly but surely finishing up the sanding and stripping of the clear coat and underlying stain.


    and sort of started working on the cutouts and shaping for a better heel access.


    I do have a few questions.

    1. What is the best way to pull out the threaded inserts for the Floyd rose?
    2. I was thinking about turning this into a bridge PU only guitar. How can I fill the neck and middle pickup cavities? (shape a block of mahogany to PU form and glue it in and sand smooth? I am intending on putting a veneer over the top. Kind of going for an Ibanez RGDIX7MPB look)
    3. I also want to make the bridge PU wood mounted instead of PU ring mounted. How do I go about this?
     
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  3. KR250

    KR250 SS.org Regular

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    For question one and two, check out this video:
    For the third, easiest way is to place some stiff foam under the pickup and run screws into the wood below. You'll have some room to adjust the height depending on how deep the cavity is routed.
     
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  4. Defyantly

    Defyantly SS.org Regular

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    Thank you so much that video was extremely helpful and detrimental at the same time....now I want to put an evertune into it :lol::wallbash: but that's out of budget. It does bring up a couple of points. Can I use any wood to fill the cavities? If I went with mahogany it would get kind of pricey and I don't know if I have the best equipment to shape it well enough, but could I go with a cheaper material? Like basswood? Also since an evertune is out of question if I filled the entire trem cavity and made the guitar a string-thru TOM or hardtail hipshot style would the glued in wood be strong enough to hold up to the tension?
     
  5. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    For filling the pickup holes? Use anything. Close grained wood like Basswood will be easier to finish.
     
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  6. Defyantly

    Defyantly SS.org Regular

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    I kinda figured I could use basswood for the pickup cavities but what about the trem cavity? Mainly for structural integrity.
     
  7. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Most trem equipped Ibanez guitars have Basswood bodies. Go for it.
     
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  8. Defyantly

    Defyantly SS.org Regular

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    Thanks I will look into getting some basswood blanks to I can shape them. I'm getting pretty excited about working on this and what it can become....I just wish my wallet could keep up..:cond:
     
  9. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Depending on where you live, Basswood or poplar should be about the price of a sandwich for a board much bigger than you need.
     
  10. Defyantly

    Defyantly SS.org Regular

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    Right..I was just unprepared for the funding needed for a full overhaul of the entire guitar :lol: but ill just buy piecemeal as I can that way I still have room to change my mind as I do the upgrades.
     
  11. KnightBrolaire

    KnightBrolaire hardtail crusader

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    if you're worried about structural integrity (which you shouldn't be), buy some maple, it's a good bit tougher than basswood or poplar. Maple is also relatively cheap. You can buy a small board for under 10$ no problem. Offcuts would be even cheaper at some places.
     
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  12. LiveOVErdrive

    LiveOVErdrive CNC hack

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    Also make sure you have some scrap to test and practice your finishes on.
     
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