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Discussion in 'Luthiery, Modifications & Customizations' started by LiveOVErdrive, Jul 10, 2017.
That would be awesome. Thanks
Alright, so you start with your guitar body:
In the sculpting space, create a cylinder to be your tool to cut the belly carve. Position it so that it intersects your guitar where you want to cut like so:
Then do a "split body" operation. Select the guitar body as the body to split, and the cylinder as the tool. When it is done, hide the cylinder (you don't need it anymore). Should leave you with two bodies that look like this:
Now just hide the one that is the tummy carve, and you're good to go:
I did my other body shaping similarly - cylinders or surfaces that I shaped, and then used to carve away at the main body blank.
Hope that helps.
That helps. Thanks man
Im just putting the final touches to my Eshapeoko shopping list so this is of great interest to me,I do all my plans/mock ups in 2d vectors in PS but i don't think I'll have much of an issue moving to 3d as i spent count less hours building 3d quake and unreal deathmatch maps and models many years ago im sure it will take a while to find a cad program that "clicks" but that's part of the funright.
Highline Guitars has a few cool CNC type video's on YT that are a good watch and one of the things that got me thinking of going diy CNC.
That piece of Hickory looks great (id have been tempted to slab fretboard it & rear route/skunk the TR) to bad about the tape movement,ive seen a few videos were ppl use a dowel in the job waste/wasteboard set up that looks pretty solid for keeping things in place.
going to be a few weeks before i get around to ordering and building my own setup so I'll be following with interest keep up the great work
Thanks. Yeah I use holes and rods to square it up but I remove them before milling. I think my strategy from now on will just be to screw it down. I've got a secondary waste board on there so there's no worries with wearing out my main board.
The fortunate thing about the slippage is that it isn't so far out of alignment that it won't work just fine for my own copy of this guitar (which will happen), but on principle I'm going to make sure the one I give to my bro is perfect.
instead of cylinders you can use the spline tool to design some cool stuff, then split face. with the spline as the tool. basically doing the same thing, but with free hand designs.
After you split the face, how do you make the cut to the edge of the body?
not exactly sure how to word it, but i followed this video
I milled a test fretboard out of pine tonight. First time I've used 1/8 inch bits (1.5 mm and 0.6mm end mills in this case) and the 1/4 to 1/8 collet I have worked great.
This came out amazing. Definitely getting the hang of the cam side of things now.
Next I'll mill one out of maple (on a piece of stock I've actually planed to thickness) as a test before I cut the ebony. And I'll throw it on my Hickory neck for my own test copy of my brother's guitar (I guess I'm building two guitars now )
Last night I ran some modified fretboard jobs on some actual hardwood.
Here's my stock, all planed down and ready to go. A nice piece of flamed maple I grabbed at the home improvement store on my way home from work.
I actually did the inlay this time. I widened the pocket by .005" and that made all the difference. Was able to hammer it in with a block of wood with no problems.
Then the milling begins! This is way easier than sanding with a radius block - especially since this is a compound radius.
(we'll forget about the hours and hours I spent in front of a computer screen to get to this point)
And now the slotting. This part is particularly exciting. I'm using a 0.6mm end mill to do a bunch of tiny passes. And they don't go all the way to the edge of the fretboard, so Ill have nice clean edges.
Finished that, cut the tabs, did some sanding, et voila! A fretboard! Gonna glue it up to my neck tonight.
I might also try to get my third guitar into the finishing stage tonight. I've been kind of ignoring it since I got my new tools.
That is amazing! Great job!! Having spent HOURS sanding a new roasted BE maple board last week, I would kill for this.
Awesome job! I like it!
Thanks for sharing. Very inspired by the CNC route myself now I've got the build bug. I'd best learn Fusion 360 first - seems like a user friendly CAD program.
It is definitely worth learning. There are many many resources out there to help you learn it. Like I said before I'd never touched a cad program in my life before a month ago, and now here we are.
Glued up the neck!
This time I remembered to put the truss rod and t nuts in before gluing.
Overall it looks pretty good
However, just as I was warned, I've got a crack!
Guess I made my t nut holes a bit too small, and the compression cracked the Hickory. I'm still gonna use this neck on my test guitar, but I'll have to tweak the model a bit before I do the real thing.
The glue joint also isn't the greatest. I think I'm going to model up and mill some cradles put of pine and/or foam so I can clamp with even pressure across the two curved pieces.
Did you countersink the holes a little before you clamped? T-nuts have a rather noticeable ramp transition from the flat part to the main threaded cylinder. Measure the diameter of the cylindrical bit and drill for that. Then do a generous bevel on the hole with a countersink bit, and perhaps even drill pilot holes for the teeth (which you can actually also cut way shorter without any issue).
Ohhh. Yeah that would help a lot. I thought about pilot holes for the teeth but not about the bevel. I'll have to do that. Probably on a test block first. Thanks!
I think it was already cracked if you look at the first picture in that post you can see a crack next to the insert. Putting pressure on it may have spread it.
Yeah it cracked when I hammered it in. I just decided to glue it anyway since this is a test neck.
After some chatting with my brother, I changed up the body bevels a bit. Now it'll be carved/beveled on top and bottom, sort of like an ibanez S.
Looks pretty sexy to me. Can't wait to play it.
I used the technique MikeNeal shared above for modeling the bevels. That worked great! Thanks for that.
Hopefully I'll get to milling some more this week. Yard work is really getting in the way of my guitar building time. I don't know how you folks with both a house AND a family ever get anything built.