[stuh84]

Yeah, looked into the MidiMate, and it seems cool, but I think the All Access is what I'll go for, the manual put lots of ideas in my head so must be a good sign

[Oogadee Boogadee]

this has to be one of the coolest informative posts I've seen in a loooong time.

[7 Dying Trees]

Originally Posted by stuh84

Yeah, I mean my Behringer can handle it, but the build quality is deffo nothing to write home about.

Not had any issues, and my gear isn't babied. Sturdy and made of metal, and at the price I can't argue with it at all, had it for 4/5 years and it's been fine!

Anyway, very good post about all things midi, although I'd add to this:

- If you're dealing with loads of cabling, or like me, need to split up the rack into several parts (like pre and power amp) for weight considerations then:

Have a "master" module in your rack, all cables attached to this, and cable tied if they leave the rack in bundles, ie, I have:

- a midi + power lead bundle leading out to the behringer FCB1010 to power it
- stereo out to the power amp
- power to the power amp
- Any switching signals to the power amp (I had a grouping of 3 leads when i had the 2:90)

And if you can, colour code! Nothing is worse than trying to figure out what goes where in a rack when it isn't working!

[eaeolian]

^ James speaks the truth. I really need to take pics of mine (that was the inspiration for Dave's) sometime soon and post them here. I have everything color-coded, and I built an interface box for my pedalboard so everything plugs up in one place. Works great.

[7 Dying Trees]

Originally Posted by eaeolian

^ James speaks the truth. I really need to take pics of mine (that was the inspiration for Dave's) sometime soon and post them here. I have everything color-coded, and I built an interface box for my pedalboard so everything plugs up in one place. Works great.

Aye. Racks can be absolutely close-to-tears material if they go wrong at gigs. Nothing is more embarressing than having your blinky light racvk of doom not work (gets you laughed at).

Hence a few other tricks:
1) The rear rack rails are your friends. Cable ties will attach cabling that goes out, and prevent most accidental pulling cables out of their sockets

2) Really make sure the wiring inside is idiot proof and secure. Cable tie, cable tie, and then cable tie some more

3) Keep units in racks that belong together. If you're rack is in two parts, then you want:
- TWO signal cables at most (one for left, one for right) going from one to the other
- ONE power lead if you can help it.

4) Keep cables attached to the master module of the rack via cable ties.

5) If you can get your rack up and running in less than 5 minutes (plug, plug, connect to cab, connect guitar and done) and pack down in 5 minutes then you have a good rack design.

[Drew]

I'm a total rig purist, but I gotta say, this just looks FUN.

[Rick]

That's awesome. Now I just need to get a MIDI controller.

[7 Dying Trees]

Originally Posted by Drew

I'm a total rig purist, but I gotta say, this just looks FUN.

It is! It's like lego!

[noodles]

Zip ties, a central boxes in the rack and on the floor, and more cable ties are next. My rig looked a lot nicer before I tore it all apart for this article.

I don't have rear rails in my rack, so I'll have to figure out another method. Then again, since I'm looking to replace the wireless get a rackmount Bloody Murder, that rack shelf is going to disappear very soon.

[7 Dying Trees]

I've got a rackmount BM coming, I'm hoping it'll fill half the shelf with the amp gizmo (i broke down and got one, as I was having a horrid time getting my soldering skills to produce a footswitch cable for the vht) so I want them to live on the same shelf. I want to go wireless, but man, that's more money I don't have right now