[ibznorange]

sweet, im thinking of knocking the shoulders off of my s7320 when it comes in (that poor guitar is gonna get raped, then brought back up to par). youre not having any stability issues with it? like the truss rod didnt poke through anywhere right? lol that would be alllll bad

[Rick]

Originally Posted by soldierkahn

dont worry gentlemen, im not done just yet. Ive got some fiberglass, and an autobody painter working with me on this and my next one, so more shots will be available once i finish with the body and get the neck squared away.


BTW!!!!!!!! I sanded my 7620 neck down to a 7420's neck radius and feel (the ones with the skunk stripe) (based it off of my 1077XL neck). I got it down great and now it feels AMAZING!!!!!

That's killer, dude.

[soldierkahn]

Originally Posted by ibznorange

sweet, im thinking of knocking the shoulders off of my s7320 when it comes in (that poor guitar is gonna get raped, then brought back up to par). youre not having any stability issues with it? like the truss rod didnt poke through anywhere right? lol that would be alllll bad

As far as stability goes, i cant tell you yet, as the guitar is still in pieces. Once its all back together, ill let you know, but i didnt have to take that much off. They are actually VERY close to each (the 7620 and 7420 necks). Same thickness, only the 7620 has the "shoulders" like the beginings of the Wizard II profile. All you do is sand the shoulders off and then match the grit with the rest to smooth it over. I take it all the way down to 2000 grit sandpaper wet sanding. Then im gonna spray a light semi-gloss over it to seal it. Then just tack on the shitload of Lemon Oil.

[djpharoah]

Bro - why did you wet sand the neck? Shouldn't it be a dry sand? Also dont know about lemon oil to seal the back.

[Randy]

Originally Posted by djpharoah

Bro - why did you wet sand the neck? Shouldn't it be a dry sand? Also dont know about lemon oil to seal the back.

I dunno what the lemon oil's for, but I thought the poly was for the back?

Either way, I believe tongue-oil is the way to go on the neck.

[soldierkahn]

well, Ibanez does a LIGHT glaze of semigloss for their "unfinished" necks from the factory, so i want to return it to that feel. Cuz all i do when i get a new Ibby is take 0000 grade steel sool to the neck and then hit it with lemon oil to moisturize....

[Stitch]

You stick lemon oil on unfinished maple?

[Jason]

Originally Posted by Stitch

You stick lemon oil on unfinished maple?

I thought lemon oil on unfinished maple is a big

[soldierkahn]

Originally Posted by Stitch

You stick lemon oil on unfinished maple?

no my lovely. Im gonna spray a couple of light coats of Semi Gloss clear once im done sanding the the neck wood down. Just enough to SEAL the wood. Then after all is said and done, ill re-oil EVERYTHING.....

Just like i do when i get a new guitar from the shop. Thats what i was originally trying to do.

Step 1: Sand neck down to desired profile

Step 2: Make baby smooth

Step 3: Return the neck to the way Ibanez does before they send out the guitar

Step 4: Oil my neck back up for play


============================

I know lemon oil on a bare neck is a

[Dropped2C]

Not to be negative or anything, but in a year or 2 that wood filler will shrink and/or separate from the wood. Also you will get dents or "pinches" in the holes like little craters over time. I have to agree the best method would have been to remove the fret wire and inlays and use either rosewood filler plugs or rosewood dust.

But whatever works for you works for you. My only concern is that the dots are always gonna be visible unless you add filler plugs and smooth out the plugs with the wood. and also by using a good wood dye you'll eliminate the dots from showing.