[Drew]

Originally Posted by halsinden

...the exact diameter of your guitar?
.

Because you're British and will probably appreciate the humour of this, I just want to go ahead and say that I think those plugs MIGHT be a little big for inlay work.

[TripleFan]

I´m German and even I appreciate the humor...

OK, obviously you would need to make those plugs yourself. Maybe turning them from spare fretboard offcuts.
But that´s some serious task. As I said you would most probably need to defret the neck plug those marker holes, sand the board, refret, level and crown the frets. This is pro area.
I think Kahn´s way, while surely not the way a luthier or a seasoned repair man would do it, is a innovative and easy to do take on the problem. It surely will not give you the results a pro would achive but it´s something you can do with the limited possibilities you have at home.

Oh, and take my rambling with a grain of salt as I theoretically know much about that kind of stuff but never attempted something like this myself.
I really hope that some of our luthiers or repair guys chime in.

[Stitch]

Originally Posted by Drew

Because you're British and will probably appreciate the humour of this, I just want to go ahead and say that I think those plugs MIGHT be a little big for inlay work.

I'mw aiting to see what Allen says about it, because I don't really have an opinion. Its not how I would have done it, but I also am not sure what the 'proper' (and I say that loosely) way to do it is, but I have an inkling.

[canuck brian]

I'm not a "pro" luthier as I'm not doing it full time, but I apparently have more experience doing things like this than most in this thread - you wouldn't be able to hide the dots - there is always going to be something noticable.

Redoing inlays with the frets still on is one guaranteed way to make sure the board is no longer perfectly radiused. If you used wood plugs, you would DEFINITELY have to pull all the frets, resurface and refret. Rosewood dust could be used also with expoxy and whatnot, but you're going to hit that problem spot with re-radiusing the board. I'm not 100% certain, but I would definitely not place a space heater 1 foot away (or any distance) from my guitar's super thin neck either - severe temperature variations like that...eek.

I re-did a guy's inlays with abalone recently by drilling them out like listed in the first, but I only did this because I was scalloping the board and the radius didn't matter after that as I wasn't affecting the actual frets themselves. That's about the only way to re-do inlays accurately without refretting/reradiusing the fretboard and that's pretty much only going to apply to super simple inlays like dots.

Far away this might look good, but up close it'll look like shit. I can see the dots in teh pictures so I can only imagine what they look like in real life.

[halsinden]

Originally Posted by Drew

Because you're British and will probably appreciate the humour of this, I just want to go ahead and say that I think those plugs MIGHT be a little big for inlay work.

…

…..


…buttplugs.



THERE, i did it, i lowered the tone. i had to. it’s a compulsion. it’s an affliction. hate me. just HATE ME.

H

Originally Posted by halsinden

…

…..


…buttplugs.



THERE, i did it, i lowered the tone. i had to. it’s a compulsion. it’s an affliction. hate me. just HATE ME.

H

actually, come to think of it’s that’s a wicked idea.

imagine how ROCK it would be to replace those really stylised “i just re-strung and ran onstage” / ‘loose flex’ string ends bobbling about around the headstock with great bit rubbery 12” dildos.

all the volume and tone pots are buttplugs.

get out my head. GET OUT MY HEAD.

H

[skinhead]

Originally Posted by TripleFan

Instead of dust and epoxy I would take rosewood plugs with the diameter of the removed dots. Just to match the grain which would give you a even nicer and more consistent look.

But I´m amazed by the simplicity of Kahn´s take. I really would like to see pics in a better lighting.

That's IMO the correct way to go. Take some dots with similir colors. The grain doesn't needs to be equal, because you're going to dye the fretboard after (if you will do it).

[soldierkahn]

dont worry gentlemen, im not done just yet. Ive got some fiberglass, and an autobody painter working with me on this and my next one, so more shots will be available once i finish with the body and get the neck squared away.


BTW!!!!!!!! I sanded my 7620 neck down to a 7420's neck radius and feel (the ones with the skunk stripe) (based it off of my 1077XL neck). I got it down great and now it feels AMAZING!!!!!

[s7eve]

Is the right way something like this possibly.
Filling A Hole

I found it while looking for a place to buy rosewood dowels from as I think that would be the most logical way to fill the holes.

[s7eve]

I found these, I'm sure if someone searched aroud or asked a luthier they could find other sizes.

Exotic Woods - E.I. Rosewood 5/16" x 5-7/8"

[TripleFan]

I think the methods on the Allied Luthiers link would only work well with as tiny imperfections as showed. Any bigger and it would get too noticeable.
I recently drilled an ebony board for MOP dots. One hole showed a slightly gap which I filled with ebony dust and superglue. Even on ebony with it´s faint grain texture you can notice the filler. Don´t get me wrong. It´s barely noticeable. But it´s there and you can see it if you know what you´re looking for. And that´s a gap with a fraction of a millimetre and not a 6mm hole to begin with.

I think Brian has a point here. You cannot get it completely invisible no matter what you attempt. It´s probably just a question how unobtrusive you want it. If you want it immaculate and blank get it reboarded.