[mEtAlORc]

For removing an old pickup to be replaced, do you need a desoldering iron just for removing it? Like this one: The Source By Circuit City : Soldering Tools - NEXXTECHâ„¢ 45W DESOLDERING IRON

Or can you just use a normal solder?

[Zepp88]

You don't NEED a desoldering iron, you can just heat up the solder and pull the wire away.

I personally prefer to use a desoldering iron. It's easier and cleaner to me.

You can also use desoldering braid, which takes some practice.

[ChrisPcritter]

I'm not trying to step on any toes, just offering another point of view.

Just a quick note. I was a reapair tech for air force communications equipment and was trained on electronic soldering for "hole through", surface mount" and "microscopic soldering" by "Pace" which is a company that makes high end soldering equipment.
We always used a small amount of flux, but not the kind you buy for plumbing. It allows for the best and cleanest connections. "Tin" the wire and connection if possible, which means a small coating of flux and then solder to get rid of impurities. Connect the two, then heat from one side and apply solder from the other.
(which can be left and right or top and bottom).
Clean the flux residue with denatured alcohol and a small rag being very careful not to get any on your guitars finish.


Also before I intall a new pot, I clean all connections with an eraser which works very well for cleaning circuit board connections as well (like the ones on your sound or video card on your computer).

[ChrisPcritter]

Also as some have said have a small wet sponge for cleaning the tip. And I find it useful to have an aluminum can smashed so that the bottom is still intact. Put some flux in it to help clean the soldering iron tip. Contaminants lead to bad solder joints and poor connections.
When you've finished soldering, coat the tip of the iron with solder to prevent rusting. When you go to use it the next time clean the old solder off and the tip will last much longer and work better..

[Minto Took]

Originally Posted by ChrisPcritter

Soldering advice

Very true with the procedures you stated.

I'd like to add in some work area things you can do as well. I like to have a sheet of cardboard or the backing from an old clipboard between my project and the table to help prevent burning said table and it makes clean-up easier. Also, if you need to work with leads on a pre-amp outside the guitar, grabbers like mentioned earlier work very well for this. Lastly, a drafter's lamp (the kind with a built-in magnifying glass) really helps see into tight places. You can usually get those at the local office store starting around $20 USD.

I'm working on my senior design project for my degree in EE, so I'll be huffing flux from now until August.

[JBroll]

Just a note...

In my experience with Radio Shack solder, the 63/37 works much, much better than the 60/40.

Jeff

[jaxadam]

Originally Posted by JBroll

Just a note...

In my experience with Radio Shack solder, the 63/37 works much, much better than the 60/40.

Jeff

Huh, I'll have to check that out, because I use 60/40, and don't ever really seem to have any problems.

[JBroll]

I didn't have problems, but things just seemed to get... cleaner.

Jeff

[zombietime]

Originally Posted by JBroll

I didn't have problems, but things just seemed to get... cleaner.

Jeff

It has a lower melting point and has a higher tin content than 60/40. Anyway, i'm IPC certified in soldering .... IPC 610, J-STD, blah blah blah. Been working for an electronics manufacturer for about 4 years. I do technical documentation now but still solder once in a while.

What we use are Water Soluble solder, No Clean solder and Rosin. Flux can and will corrode electronics if you use the wrong kind for your application. I recommend using a no clean solder if you aren't going to run your guitar through an industrial SMT cleaner. Water soluble cleans in plain water, Rosin and No Clean need a chemical additive to the water to clean them. Flux more or less cleans your pad/contact area of oxidation to promote proper adhesion and solder flow.

Real world example of flux issues... we used no clean solder paste on a customers pcba and after a few months coils were failing. It was traced back to the no clean flux working up into the component and eating away at it.

I'm going to keep this short but be aware of what type of solder you use as it does make a difference. We use Kester and I only really use Hakko irons and rework stations as they've been bullet proof.

Oh and be cautious of Lead Free solder. It requires much more heat and is not fun to rework. You don't need to be RoHS compliant in your own home.

(i'm no engineer or anything and ymmv as always)