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Unread 03-20-2009, 01:58 PM   #1
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Need community input for 7 string refinish.(56k bad)

title explains it, heres a pic

anyways i got new black tuners, black 7 string tune o matic bridge, black pickgaurds (satin) black knobs, black selector switch.

everything else will be cherry red tung oil stain (going for a blood red)

this is the problem, ordered flame maple veneer.

isnt wide enough.....

should i do it angle straight? or do away with it? or try it straight and with excess maple fill in the horns on the v? look at the pic you will see what im talking about

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Unread 03-20-2009, 05:24 PM   #2
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Gluing on separate pieces on the tips shouldn't leave a glue line or anything (if done well), but I think the angled veneer would look just as good.

Also, what did you decide to do with the neck and heel?

BTW: I've used that same tung oil before, and it feels sooooooo nice.

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Unread 03-20-2009, 05:29 PM   #3
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i think angling them would be a cool way to go, it'd definitely look different from most flame tops, but if you lined them up right, it would probably work out even cooler than normal
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Unread 03-20-2009, 05:36 PM   #4
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Like others have said, the angled look might be very cool. Go for it. Also, how much did one of those sheets of veneer cost? I'm curious.
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Unread 03-20-2009, 07:15 PM   #5
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angled would be badass! and glueing pieces on the tips might not leave a glue line but if the pattern is interupted it might look pretty lame.
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Unread 03-20-2009, 07:40 PM   #6
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Looks like a great project, but beware, that "tung oil finish" is not real tung oil. It is exactly as it says, a finish, not real tung oil. I was fooled when working on a project last summer. Didnt realize it until afterwards of course. It will work just fine, but the stuff I used stays a bit sticky in some parts, impossible to buff out. Try to get ahold of some real tung oil if you can.
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Unread 03-20-2009, 07:41 PM   #7
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angling is the best way to solve your problem. It is also very common and looks super cool. Especially with a flame piece
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Unread 03-20-2009, 08:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrRedRaider View Post
Looks like a great project, but beware, that "tung oil finish" is not real tung oil. It is exactly as it says, a finish, not real tung oil. I was fooled when working on a project last summer. Didnt realize it until afterwards of course. It will work just fine, but the stuff I used stays a bit sticky in some parts, impossible to buff out. Try to get ahold of some real tung oil if you can.
Quote From Wikipedia
Quote:
Pure tung oil

Showing the golden effect of polymerized tung oil vs bare wood.
Tung oil is made from the pressed seed from the nut of the tung tree. Tung oil is considered a drying oil much as linseed, safflower, poppy and soybean oil. When applied, it provides a tough, highly water-resistant finish which does not darken noticeably with age as does linseed oil. This is not to say that it is a colorless finish; it still has a slight golden tint.
Tung oil is also sometimes called “China wood oil”. It has been used for hundreds if not thousands of years in China to seal decorative and marine wood as well as porous masonry.

Polymerized tung oil

Heating or chemical treatment of pure Tung oil will substantially increase the viscosity and film-forming quality of the product. The resulting oil will range in consistency from that of maple syrup to that of motor oil. Some brands, such as Lee Valley Tools, include quick evaporating thinners to make it easier to work with and improve wood penetration.

“Tung oil” finishes

“Tung oil finish” refers to a wetted wood look that a succession of penetrating tung oil applications gives. However, it is also a generic term and has been liberally borrowed by paint-and-varnish makers to describe the expected result of using their preparations — which may or may not actually contain any tung oil at all.
And from the Formby's Tung Oil Bottle:
Quote:
Formby's Tung Oil Finish is a high-quality varnish made from a balanced blend of tung oil and other fine penetrating oils...
Formby's Tung Oil does contain tung oil and every piece of wood I have finished it with has turned out beautifully, but I have never built it to a high gloss.

I have seen beautiful guitar necks in high gloss finished with pure tung oil though.

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Unread 03-20-2009, 08:57 PM   #9
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thanks everyone for the tips and information. i think i may go angled.

also to the guy who asked where i got the maple

Veneer for guitars
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Unread 03-20-2009, 09:13 PM   #10
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checkout birchwood casey tru oil for your neck.
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Unread 03-20-2009, 09:19 PM   #11
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I think angled will look pretty cool. I hope you post pics when you get the finish on!


Steve Wethy, guitarist of Dendura
Female Fronted Egyptian themed prog metal
www.myspace.com/denduraband
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Unread 03-20-2009, 09:24 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a7stringkilla View Post
checkout birchwood casey tru oil for your neck.
i will look into that

and there will be an epic picstory
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Unread 03-21-2009, 12:14 AM   #13
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hooraah for epic picstory
and yeah, angled will look sweet.


..

.. now get it finished already
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Unread 03-21-2009, 12:16 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by william93 View Post
hooraah for epic picstory :woo:
and yeah, angled will look sweet.


..

.. now get it finished already
itll go slow because its still way too cold outside to be out there sanding the rest of it all down =D

and in 1 month its NBD for me (new baby day)
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Unread 03-21-2009, 08:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a7stringkilla View Post
checkout birchwood casey tru oil for your neck.
You can get this at most sporting goods and gun shops.

It is very easy to use and also easy to build to a high gloss (this is what I used to finish my first build). Definitely a great alternative to tung oil.

Lions, and Tigers, and Petrucci! Oh my!
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