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#1 |
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7's are Metal!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 131
Main Seven: (2)RG7420
Rig: A Tangled Rack Stack
Thanked: 0
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Repairing/Reomving Trem Posts.
Hi all, Im new here but you will be seeing alot of me
. This might not be the right thread but here goes. I have a RG2420 and the trem post(Lo-TRS if you didnt know) on the treble side is leaning a bit forward and/or can be moved forward back with some preassure. I am wondering if anyone has ever removed these from a guitar or repaired this kind of thing. I have read alot about locking trem posts but cant seem to find them at allparts, WD, etc. That being said I still think the hole the post is in probably would need some filler. If you understood at all what I wrote and have some info I would appreciate it. Thanks Tim |
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#2 |
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Total Rondo Addict!
![]() Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: La Grande, Oregon
Posts: 1,466
Real Name: Christopher
Main Seven: Agile Interceptor Pro 25
Rig: Fractal Axe Fx
Thanked: 9
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Wow, are you saying that you can move the post around in the body of the guitar (just confriming here)? You've got some nasty repair work ahead of you. You'll probably have to pull the stud, fill the hole and redrill.
As for posts, locking and non locking, you can get them easily from Rich at www.ibanezrules.com. Sadly, it sounds like those are the least of your worries. |
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#3 |
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7's are Metal!
![]() Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Billerica, MA
Posts: 131
Main Seven: (2)RG7420
Rig: A Tangled Rack Stack
Thanked: 0
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Hey thanks for the reply. Yes (and this is a little exagerrated ) the post can be pushed / towards the pic ups and back | slightly. I have a little experience with fixing a guitar but I have never pulled a trem stud out of the body. I am woungering if there is anything I should look out for
or if I should feel fine just pulling the thing out and doweling it. It seems as though the base is really deep in there. On the locking posts, I just thought since I might be pulling the whole thing a new style post might be better. Thanks for the info though ![]() |
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#4 | |
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ss.org Regular
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Tokyo.
Posts: 17
Main Seven: errr. none yet. Sorry!
Thanked: 0
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Quote:
I had exactly the same issue with my JS. You should be fine just yanking them out, just watch the finish on the guitar (my JS is a beater so i wasn't concerned either way). I would definitely recommend the locking studs. I'm desperate to get them in my guitars, just a ball ache getting them here in Japan. Just for the record, i pulled the posts and anchors, stuffed a load of glue in their making sure it got in there well, re-drilled the hole put the anchors and posts back in and job done. Like new. |
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#5 |
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I want a 1527!!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 1,304
Real Name: Jayson
Main Seven: Ibanez RG7321
Rig: Fender FM212
Thanked: 0
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get a pro to do it. this is a large task
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#6 |
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Fiddich or Morangie???
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gert Bristle
Posts: 387
Real Name: Chris
Main Seven: back on the Aria... just love them cheapies !!
Rig: 1970s Marshall JMP
Thanked: 0
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Yeah, unless you have a decent workbench & pillar-drill I'd advise against filling & re-drilling it yourself. The hole needs to be totally straight & the infill will tend to make the drill wander off-centre.
The hole has ovalized so the post & anchor should come out easy. If it was a beater you could just clean the hole out & epoxy the stud anchor in straight, using a "chemical-metal" style epoxy filler. This is a botch though, as is just filling the existing hole with glue. But would be an easy quick fix until you get it properly drilled out, dowelled & re-drilled. The epoxy fix would last longer & be more stable than just gluing the hole. Bear in mind though that once you've epoxied the stud-anchor in there the only way to get it out is by drilling it. Definately go for the locking studs. Getting it fixed properly would involve a re-finish too, or a touch-up around the stud area ( depending on how fussy you are ), cos the re-drill & dowel is a bigger diameter & would be visible around the stud. |
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