[unconventional]

Ok, so I got a xiphos 7 and a Hellraiser 7-FR coming. What I'd like to do is use the xiphos for standard B and the hellraiser for D tuning. What I'm wondering is this.

I'm thinking of perhaps stringing this with standard strings and adding a high string.

Like 48 - 10. What I'm wondering is that the schecter is a longer scale. Is this going to make my strings real tight? Am I better off going for a lighter set?

Keep in mind, I'm a 7 string noob. What I'm trying to do is have one of them tuned a little higher than B so I can get a more standard sound. I'm just not sure what strings and gauges to use.

Any ideas fellas?

[djpharoah]

A 10-58 set would be golden for either of your 7s that you want to run in B. For D tuning 8+10-46 might work. I dont knowabout the D tuning though - i never have tuned above B.

[ibznorange]

yeah id say mesh is pretty spot on with this one

[unconventional]

Do you guys know what is the difference between pure nickel, nickel and stainless steel? I know that stainless steel is a shinier metal, but sound wise?

Once I had a pair of slinkys, I liked them a lot I can't remember what kind they were. Looked like a real dull type of wound.

Also, I'm still trying to figure out this string tension (I read the sticky already). If I got a guitar that is 25" scale and one that is 27" scale and I have a 50 gauge 7th string, is the tension going to be less on the 25" than the 27"?

[ohio_eric]

I play tens on my Loomis(26.5" scale) and on my 25.5" scale guitars and really don't notice a difference. The actual increase in tension is about 8%. So it's there but I don't find it to be obvious. Plus as strings get longer they get easier to bend so the difference in the tension you calculate isn't what you feel under your fingers.


The materials used to make strings break down like this. Pure nickel is the warmest of the three, nickel steel is brighter and stainless steel is the brightest. This is only a rough guide though as things like the core size of the strings and the actual metals used play a big part.

[Jongpil Yun]

Tuning to G with a .008 is kind of pushing it, IMO.

If you want a standard sound, tune to A standard and then you have D standard on the other 6 strings.

Trust me when I say it's much easier to tune a whole step down than a minor third up. It's easier to tune a whole step down than a whole step up.

[newamerikangospel]

I would say C# would be as high as I would go. I would grab a set of 8-42s and put a 54 on the bottom.

[Kotex]

I used to play in C on 11-66. I don't know if you'd be able to make it to D with those strings. Theres a dude who makes a 7 ( I don't remember his name, he's a member). That might work.

[newamerikangospel]

Oh, and unless you have stainless steel frets, stainless steel strings will eat your frets faster than fat kids eating chocalate cake at fat camp (even with stainless steel frets, you will notice fret wear pretty fast).

Tension wise, think of it like this. On a 24.75" scale guitar, a 25.5" is roughly the equivelent as a -1 frets, and a 27" as -2 frets, or 24.75=E standard, 25.5 Eb standard, 27=D standard, with the relatively same tension with the same string gauges. So think about what string guage feels good at what tuning/scale length, and then figure from there. If you want to keep the same tuning, but up the string guage, tune up a step for comparisons sake. Or if you want to tune higher, but keep the same tension, go down string guages (if 10s feel good at B, then 8s should feel close at C#).

[soldierkahn]

^ makes a lot of sense.

i used a similar method when choosing my gauges. See im weird, on my 6er, i use 10.5-48 for Drop D (yeah, i know its a bit tight, but i love the added tone from the thicker gauge), but on my 8527, i use 9.5-44 + 58 just because i like the low B to be the dominant sounding string. And on my 1077 i use 11-49 + 60, which is a toally unbalanced set, but for some reason works REALLY well for me, and isnt tooo tight.