[chavhunter]

Bit of a tough one;

I have 5 springs in the back of my RG570 (it came in E flat with 9s and a low action, and I use 10-52 in standard). This means I had to remove the plate that screws the springs down, and Ive found the springs keep creeping out of the block putting the guitar out of tune.

I saw a picture online of a guitar with 5 springs still with the plate on, because the springs had loops at both end, so the 2 screws went through the loop. Had a look but I cant find the right springs anywhere and I dont know what to search for!

Any help?

EDIT:

[Drew]

Actually, you SHOULD be able to handle 10-52 strings without five springs. Do you still have adjustment room to tighten the claw screws? With three normal springs, you'll most likely have to tighten the springs most of the way up to the back of the cavity, but I think you'll have enough play.

Also, there are "high tension" springs available - these certainly should allow you to use three springs with heavier strings.

[chavhunter]

aye, the claw is back as far as itll go. bought it off a bloke in a band (heard of Mendeed anyone?) and it took a lot of setting up, my dad spent days adjusting it and he said it took all 5 springs to balance the trem. maybe needs a professional set-up.

[darren]

It looks to me like you should be able to remove your claw screws and drill them a bit deeper and counterbore the holes a little bit to allow the non-threaded part of the screws to sink into the cavity wall. That should enable you to crank the claw further back in the cavity and remove a couple of springs.

Drew's suggestion of high-tension springs is also a good one.

[Emiliano]

maybe you can cut the spring claws and turn one of the turn in the
spring wire at 90 degrees
so you'll have a " loop " where you first had a claw

sounds good?

you'll get a shorter spring too
maybe this will help if you need this kind of tension

but i agree that with 10 52 you wont need 5 spring

i use 4 spring on my 7 string with 10 60
and 4 spring on my strat too with 10 46
( but 3 will be ok too )

[chavhunter]

i like the idea of cutting n twisting the existing springs, that way be what has been done in the picture. its no good drilling the holes further though, the claw is virtually touching the wood already. the guitar at one point had a smashed neck and has since been repaired/re-inforced, may put more tension on the neck.... :s also how does having ''arrow-head'' spring arrangements affect the tension?

[D-EJ915]

I use 11-59 and 12-64 with 5 springs dude, no way you need 5 unless you don't want your trem to move.

[newamerikangospel]

Originally Posted by chavhunter

also how does having ''arrow-head'' spring arrangements affect the tension?

A spring wants to return to minimum tension (when the coils are closed), so the farther you pull it out, the harder it gets to pull. And since you have fewer springs, exerting more of a load, it will feel a little bit spongier, and will bounce more for purr type effects. But an arrow will work only if the springs are capable of the tension needed.

[Stitch]

Originally Posted by chavhunter

i like the idea of cutting n twisting the existing springs, that way be what has been done in the picture. its no good drilling the holes further though, the claw is virtually touching the wood already. the guitar at one point had a smashed neck and has since been repaired/re-inforced, may put more tension on the neck.... :s also how does having ''arrow-head'' spring arrangements affect the tension?

Yes, you end up with less tension.

If you think about it, an "arrow" configuration is applying less force. In "normal" configuration, your spring has all the Force/Tension due to the string tension operating in one plane/axis/dimension - horizontally (using your pic as horizontal/vertical reference), wheras an arrowhead config has two forces at play - it still has the same force being applied to it by the pull of the strings, but instead of a simple horizontal component, it has a large horizontal component but also a vertical component. This is critical - since it has two forces acting on it, these must add together to form the total force/tension, but since there is more than just a horizontal component, the horizontal component in this example can never be as great as that of a simple horizontal spring.

To summarise, Straight > Arrowhead












Phew. Hope that helped!

[Kevan]

Actually, the "arrow" configuration is equal to about 3.3 springs.

The problem (both with the guitar first pictured and trem springs in general) is that tremolo springs come in different lengths. This means different 'pulls' or 'strengths'.
In my shop I have them separated into Short, Medium, and Long.

From the looks of the picture, and the description in the post, I'd guess that you're running (5) Long springs. These will have lower tension and not hold your trem as 'tight' as Medium or Short springs.

(3) Short springs can almost equal (5) long springs.
I've seen UV's running 3 springs and 11-60.
I've also seen 6's running 5 springs with 9-42.

It may take a few tries (and a shitload of spring inspection), but eventually you'll find the set that works for you.
It's always best to run matching springs- i.e. all Short, or all Medium.

The double-loop end springs that you're looking for are available (link). They're usually reserved for Fender Mustang and/or Jaguar trems. If you install them on a Floyd-type trem, you may quit guitar altogether. It will feel THAT bad. Those double-loop springs are designed for an entirely different tremolo system.

My suggestion for this particular guitar: (4) medium springs. That will give you the right amount of tension to keep you in tune, keep your claw far enough from the cavity wall for necessary adjustments, and still allow you a nice smooth (but firm) tremolo feel.


And don't forget to clean and lube your trem posts and knife edges!!!