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Unread 05-14-2012, 08:20 AM   #1
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High pass filter built into guitar?

What do you guys think about that?

And what would be better? Two 1nF capacitors in parallel and 1MΩ resistor or 1nF capacitor and 2MΩ resistor?

Or even 0.0033uF capacitor with 500KΩ resistor?
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Unread 05-14-2012, 01:23 PM   #2
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Someone actually posted the recipe for this a good while back. Called it the "tightness control" or something.

I really want to see a crossover built in myself. Low end from pickups + high end from bridge pickup, for example, with an internal control to change the crossover frequency.

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Unread 05-14-2012, 03:38 PM   #3
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Personally I'd rather have to take things out than to have a built-in EQ and have to try and add things in. Just my opinion. I'd rather give the sound guy, engineer - myself even - all of my signal and then carve out things either through outboard gear or post-processing.
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Unread 05-14-2012, 03:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnorGilks View Post
Personally I'd rather have to take things out than to have a built-in EQ and have to try and add things in. Just my opinion. I'd rather give the sound guy, engineer - myself even - all of my signal and then carve out things either through outboard gear or post-processing.
Definitely. Let Mainstage or Logic's plugins do it so it's nondestructive to the recording and the minimalism of the instrument.
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Unread 05-14-2012, 03:51 PM   #5
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While I would normally agree with you on this one (less is better), I have a Jackson Professional that has a mid-bass boost circuit in it, and that is icing on the cake for me. You might have something worth repeating.
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Unread 05-14-2012, 04:11 PM   #6
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Ok the point was cutting the crap before signal hits the amp. Nothing I asked was really answered. And I'm talking about passive filter.
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Unread 05-15-2012, 12:31 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by xeonblade View Post
Ok the point was cutting the crap before signal hits the amp. Nothing I asked was really answered. And I'm talking about passive filter.
That's what I'm saying, passive or not, it's not adjustable. That is an issue. You may be cutting some good stuff. Even if you do a typical roll-off from 100 down, you may want that back if you find yourself in a band with no bass, or a band with just one guitar, you may want to roll off from say 80 down instead. In theory it's a great idea, in practice it's not as great.
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Unread 05-15-2012, 02:18 AM   #8
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^^ it wouldn't be that hard to wire up a switch for different combinations and to also bypass the filter altogether if need be. I say wire it up with a couple different combos and see what sounds best, my only concern would be that changing amps may force you to change the values of your caps and resistors but like I said it wouldn't be a big deal to switch them out for different value components. you could maybe even use a push/pull variable resistor with a three way switch for the caps, would be fun to mess around with.
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Unread 05-15-2012, 04:39 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by ConnorGilks View Post
That's what I'm saying, passive or not, it's not adjustable. That is an issue. You may be cutting some good stuff. Even if you do a typical roll-off from 100 down, you may want that back if you find yourself in a band with no bass, or a band with just one guitar, you may want to roll off from say 80 down instead. In theory it's a great idea, in practice it's not as great.
Wired up with a switch bro. I'm asking for technical stuff and u just just keep talking about other stuff.

What would be better? Two 1nF capacitors in parallel and 1MΩ resistor or 1nF capacitor and 2MΩ resistor?Or even 0.0033uF capacitor with 500KΩ resistor?
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Unread 05-15-2012, 05:43 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ConnorGilks View Post
That's what I'm saying, passive or not, it's not adjustable. That is an issue. You may be cutting some good stuff. Even if you do a typical roll-off from 100 down, you may want that back if you find yourself in a band with no bass, or a band with just one guitar, you may want to roll off from say 80 down instead. In theory it's a great idea, in practice it's not as great.
Not really an issue, man. This is before the distortion, not after it. If you can run a tubescreamer in front of your amp and still get a hefty sound, then a high pass filter should be no problem.

edit: This is what you're looking for, OP: http://www.metalguitarist.org/forum/...-bass-cut.html
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Unread 05-16-2012, 03:08 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by MF_Kitten View Post
Not really an issue, man. This is before the distortion, not after it. If you can run a tubescreamer in front of your amp and still get a hefty sound, then a high pass filter should be no problem.

edit: This is what you're looking for, OP: The 'Tight' control - simple passive bass cut
Okay, that helped with resistor/capacitor values. I've seen someone post the same stuff but he wanted to use 10k resistor and two 0.1uF and people told him not to because that was too low for guitar but nobody explained why. 1nF capacitor and 2MΩ resistor does the same FREQUENCY cut but with different R and C values.
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Unread 05-16-2012, 04:00 AM   #12
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Switch your tone control around so instead of having the pot in series and the cap to ground it's the other way, and assuming a 500k pot you need about 3nf cap so that when you turn the pot to max R the roloff's about 100Hz, you wouldnt wanna go much higher than that.

If you're using a switch its very simple.

Chose scale of R in the 10^4-10^5R orders, and plug your resistor value and cutoff into this:
1/(2*pi*R*f) and it'll give you a capacitance value.

Your cap will be in series with your other pot when you engage it, and in s/p with your picks so your cutoff won't be exact what you wanted, probably a little lower.

Just buy a bunch of them round that sort of value and see which you prefer.

Alternatively you could use a voltage follower but you'll have to hook up a battery. This would be the cleanest, most precise way though and would be like having a TS in your guitar lol.

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Unread 05-16-2012, 04:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fun111 View Post
Switch your tone control around so instead of having the pot in series and the cap to ground it's the other way, and assuming a 500k pot you need about 3nf cap so that when you turn the pot to max R the roloff's about 100Hz, you wouldnt wanna go much higher than that.

If you're using a switch its very simple.

Chose scale of R in the 10^4-10^5R orders, and plug your resistor value and cutoff into this:
1/(2*pi*R*f) and it'll give you a capacitance value.

Your cap will be in series with your other pot when you engage it, and in s/p with your picks so your cutoff won't be exact what you wanted, probably a little lower.

Just buy a bunch of them round that sort of value and see which you prefer.

Alternatively you could use a voltage follower but you'll have to hook up a battery. This would be the cleanest, most precise way though and would be like having a TS in your guitar lol.
Building my own guitar so I have none to try it out in. I won't use tone knob, I'll just use 3,3nF cap and 500kOhm Resistor and see how it works.
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Unread 05-16-2012, 04:50 AM   #14
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3.3nF is the value I got too.

And you will be able to try it out once its on, haha, just buy a couple of other (smaller ideally) caps and when you have it all set up, if you find you need a little more low end when they switch is engaged just make the switch.

TBH if I were building a guitar, electronics would be the last thing I was worrying about.

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Unread 05-16-2012, 05:06 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Fun111 View Post
3.3nF is the value I got too.

And you will be able to try it out once its on, haha, just buy a couple of other (smaller ideally) caps and when you have it all set up, if you find you need a little more low end when they switch is engaged just make the switch.

TBH if I were building a guitar, electronics would be the last thing I was worrying about.
I got EVERYTHING else covered.

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Unread 05-16-2012, 05:13 AM   #16
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I mean I wouldn't worry until it was actually built and sitting in front of me beyond deciding whether I wants hums, singles, p90's and how many

Also if that's strandberg hardware, you'll want the tuning pegs off the bottom of the body or you won't be able to use them.

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Unread 05-16-2012, 05:23 AM   #17
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I mean I wouldn't worry until it was actually built and sitting in front of me beyond deciding whether I wants hums, singles, p90's and how many

Also if that's strandberg hardware, you'll want the tuning pegs off the bottom of the body or you won't be able to use them.
It's kinda old pic of model, ill cut some wood in the place where the tuners go so I can fit my fingers to turn it.
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Unread 05-16-2012, 09:22 AM   #18
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It's kinda old pic of model, ill cut some wood in the place where the tuners go so I can fit my fingers to turn it.
you can "disguise" it by making a bevel on the rear end, so you naturally get a gap between tuners and body.

OR you could move the whole string length towards the back until the tuners are all off the body.

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Unread 05-16-2012, 05:20 PM   #19
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you can "disguise" it by making a bevel on the rear end, so you naturally get a gap between tuners and body.

OR you could move the whole string length towards the back until the tuners are all off the body.
Don't want them to stick out from body because I play sitting and I hold my guitar between legs. That would mean tuners would be constantly poking my right leg.
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