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Unread 03-30-2012, 12:49 PM   #1
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Too bright woods/pickup combination?



Making a headless design with steinberger gearless tuners and custom bridge and custom top loading nut, but that isn't the point.

Neck is hybrid between neck thru and set neck.

This should be a really lightweight, shred guitar.

I've had in mind DiMarzio EVO2 in bridge and DiMarzio Liquifire in neck. Liquifire kinda worries me because I've only heard it being high mid-trebly in alder. I kinda thought it would sound creamier since the site says "treble 4.5 and middle 7.5"
Body (blue): Alder
Neck (green): Maple
Fretboard (red): Ebony

BUT! Ebony and Maple are VERY bright and Alder is somewhat bright which makes me worry it would be TOO bright :\

I've wanted to go with Basswood for body in the first place (because it takes off some highs and gives more warmth, and it's really lightweight) but I've gone with Alder idea because it's harder wood and it's easier to find a good piece than basswood at my place.

Any thoughts?
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Unread 03-30-2012, 12:53 PM   #2
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I've played many'o Jackson with Alder/Maple/Ebony so there is no need to worry
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Unread 03-30-2012, 12:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thep View Post
I've played many'o Jackson with Alder/Maple/Ebony so there is no need to worry
In theory I could make a perfect guitar for anyone, but in reality it's kinda ....ed up.

I've had RR3 with Invaders (alder+maple+rosewood) and it sounded muddy as .... and it should have sounded clear and punchy. On the other hand, I've head a 150e superstrat with crappy no name pickups and crappy mahagony+maple+rosewood and it sounded better for rhythm than RR3. Now I have Schecter Omen 7 with EMG81-7 and 707 which has basswood+maple+rosewood and it sounds balanced. Okay clarity and punch and somewhat creamy leads.

Edit: That 150e guitar had the best licenced floyd rose I've ever played. Still no idea how that ended up on 150e guitar.
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Unread 03-30-2012, 03:42 PM   #4
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You will just need pickups that are balanced with it. Active EMG's probably wouldn't sound very good in a super bright guitar like that imo.

An EVO2 may be a bit bright as well. Id try something more "mid rangey" like a dimarzio tone zone or SD 59 custom. But its your guitar man!
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Unread 03-30-2012, 06:50 PM   #5
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Since when should EVO2 be bright? I'm not even concidering Active pickups. Only passives are in question...
I wanted to say that Liquifire sounded kinda ice picky to me in some demos.
I DO NOT want any of em to sound icepicky. (Original evolution sounds icepicky, EVO2 is supposed to be smoother in that area)
Maybe if I used 250k volume pot to tap off some highs...
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Unread 04-01-2012, 02:29 AM   #6
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Alder body with maple/ebony neck is the classic superstrat combo, nothing to worry about there. And if you find it too bright, adjust your amp eq.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 04:22 AM   #7
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The LiquiFire is the smoothest neck pickup I've ever played. I have one in my RG570 (basswood body, rosewood fretboard, maple/bubinga neck). In all honesty, the woods of the 570 aren't too different from what you'll be using. Alder has a pretty damn balanced frequency response.

Quote:
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I've had RR3 with Invaders (alder+maple+rosewood) and it sounded muddy as .... and it should have sounded clear and punchy.
Nothing about this sentence made sense.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 07:04 AM   #8
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As you're using a very deep set neck, I believe this could be more defining to tone than the body wood.

Basswood comes in a variety of qualities, and I believe many negative comments on it comes from inexpensive instruments build with lower quality basswood.
I think a qood quality could result in a nicely balanced tone over a large range, especially for a shred guitar.

If worried about a too brigt tone, maybe consider wenge for the fretboard.
I have a most sexy slap with figures weaving in and out of almost pitch black ebony like and rosewood like browns; all pretty hard, but still a Bit less than ebony.
It's reserved for a maybe 7-stringer

I'd suggest being careful not making a shred machine too lightweight, as this may cause it to wiggle on your body if picking aggressively, especially if the body carve is made deep.
However, your suggested shape will have the advantage that the upper rear wing can almost be locked under the armpit
I once had an axe with sorta such a wing shape, and it was pure stability bliss.

WRT tuners and headshape, I understand your idea, but you'll need to tune from the backside, which may feel awkvard.
I feel this bodyshape would fit better wit a small headstock, on which Steinberger tuners can be mounted quite close in any arrangement; another of their virtues

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Unread 04-01-2012, 09:54 AM   #9
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I have no idea about sounds but just wanted to say the idea of a headless Xyphos is actually really cool... Wish I had thought of that!
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Unread 04-01-2012, 12:31 PM   #10
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Just my but alder isnt bright
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Unread 04-01-2012, 02:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountainjam View Post
Just my but alder isnt bright
This.

My alder guitars feel sorta...everywhere. Brighter than mahogany, but not that bright. Just balanced.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 02:56 PM   #12
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^ I agree with alder producing an overall balanced tone.
My el cheapo Filmore strat with alder body, hardrock maple neck, rosewood board is nicely balanced and not at all dark, though not top bright either.

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Unread 04-01-2012, 05:34 PM   #13
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My alder Jacksons always felt bright as shit, but they were also equipped with the stock JBs or whatever is in the bridge by default, and I think I really hate that pickup.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 07:32 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valennic View Post
This.

My alder guitars feel sorta...everywhere. Brighter than mahogany, but not that bright. Just balanced.
Exactly. Balanced and clean through the entire spectrum in my experience.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 08:21 PM   #15
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IMO the emg81 or the 85 sounds great in alder as well. Gives some very clear and tight chunk together with the emgs natural/unnatural umphiness.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 06:12 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRENCHLORD View Post
IMO the emg81 or the 85 sounds great in alder as well. Gives some very clear and tight chunk together with the emgs natural/unnatural umphiness.
+1

All the ESP/LTD alder body 6 strings I've tried slayed with EMGs.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 12:07 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vansinn View Post
I'd suggest being careful not making a shred machine too lightweight, as this may cause it to wiggle on your body if picking aggressively, especially if the body carve is made deep.
However, your suggested shape will have the advantage that the upper rear wing can almost be locked under the armpit
I once had an axe with sorta such a wing shape, and it was pure stability bliss.

WRT tuners and headshape, I understand your idea, but you'll need to tune from the backside, which may feel awkvard.
I feel this bodyshape would fit better wit a small headstock, on which Steinberger tuners can be mounted quite close in any arrangement; another of their virtues
Uhm, yeah I kinda pick retardedly agressive, might be because I started my guitar playing with Metallica downpicking which led to picking aggressiveness.
Guitar will have a small plate which can be opened on back of guitar to tune it so only visible thing will be top of the tuner which locks the string and rest will be inside the body. Body should be heavy enough not to jump around, if u take in mind alder+bridge+6 tuners+enough big body. I'm trying to to make a list so I can get all from StewMac (cuz shipping from many sites will cost A LOT since i have to pay import taxes and shipping for each site). I'll only get pickups here.
It's a bit tight when the space comes in question but it's enough big body to fit all.

I can go either alder or mahagony body (red stuff).

Quote:
Originally Posted by asher View Post
My alder Jacksons always felt bright as shit, but they were also equipped with the stock JBs or whatever is in the bridge by default, and I think I really hate that pickup.
JB is bright by itself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TRENCHLORD View Post
IMO the emg81 or the 85 sounds great in alder as well. Gives some very clear and tight chunk together with the emgs natural/unnatural umphiness.
If I went with actives I'd go with 85/60, seems valid. 81 might be too bright in maple+alder.

-------------------------------------------------------

Edit: Since I've been told EVO2 is relatively bright I could move it 5mm from bridge to take off some highs and give it more output since it's lower output than usual "high power" pups. On current "build plan" it's 25mm from average string saddle distance.
OR should I leave it like that and turn up the bass on amp and have bridge sound blanced and neck fat and singing?

I'd like some thoughts on this last thing...

Edit2: DiMarzio says "Liquifire: Bass 6, Mid 7.5, Treble 4.5" but it doesn't sound THAT smooth or "lowmid fat" or "round" as I thought it would. It sounds more highmid to me. Almost same story with EVO2 (Bass 6, Mid 7.5, Treble 6) but sounded kinda icepicky on demos.

Have I just heard bad demos of those or what?

Edit3: I'd use 6505 so take that in mind.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 12:43 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighPotency View Post
The LiquiFire is the smoothest neck pickup I've ever played. I have one in my RG570 (basswood body, rosewood fretboard, maple/bubinga neck). In all honesty, the woods of the 570 aren't too different from what you'll be using. Alder has a pretty damn balanced frequency response.


Nothing about this sentence made sense.
Bro I know, it makes no sense but my RR3 was muddy as shit and it had pretty bright woods. I've sold it few weeks after.
Edit: It had DUNCAN DESIGNED INVADER pickups, that's prolly why it did. I just remembered it was cheaper RR3 version. A bit more expensive had swirl and Jazz+JB.

And RG570 have different specs. Basswood have high roll off compared to alder, rosewood is balanced and ebony is bright and bubinga seem to be a bit darker than maple if I'm not wrong.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 03:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xeonblade View Post
Bro I know, it makes no sense but my RR3 was muddy as shit and it had pretty bright woods. I've sold it few weeks after.
Edit: It had DUNCAN DESIGNED INVADER pickups, that's prolly why it did. I just remembered it was cheaper RR3 version. A bit more expensive had swirl and Jazz+JB.

And RG570 have different specs. Basswood have high roll off compared to alder, rosewood is balanced and ebony is bright and bubinga seem to be a bit darker than maple if I'm not wrong.
I meant that it didn't make sense that you had Invaders in it and expected it to be bright/not muddy.
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Unread 04-02-2012, 04:16 PM   #20
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Quote:
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I meant that it didn't make sense that you had Invaders in it and expected it to be bright/not muddy.
Bro, instead of sounding like regular Invaders sound, Meaty and Punchy it sounded like pile of mud with no definition whatsoever altho it was in bright guitar. It sounded like Invaders in all mahogany guitar.

It sounded something like this, but muddier and with a bit more treble

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyO5mTEwuJc
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Unread 04-04-2012, 12:11 PM   #21
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Unread 04-05-2012, 02:37 AM   #22
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Bkp Warpig? The bass might even it out. Idk, I'm not extremely knowledgable on the warpigs.
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Unread 04-05-2012, 04:16 AM   #23
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Didn't really ask for pickup. And warping isn't really a "solo/shred" pickup for bridge. Need thoughts on woods.
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Unread 04-05-2012, 04:24 AM   #24
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What do you need to know that hasn't been said? Alder body with maple/ebony neck has been used countless times... go for it!
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Unread 04-05-2012, 05:08 AM   #25
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I'm using a BKP Rebel Yell bridge in an alder/maple/ebony Carvin and am happy as f***, so for each his own.

Alder isn't really bright per sè, in my experience. Just tight - it has the same high-bass/low-mid cut you'd do to a guitar signal in a studio production. I'd say you'll be good to go.

Regardless, i will say that a very lightweight guitar might be more prone to feedback - especially with your pictured design (protruding horns etc.), and if i'm getting it right and your tuners are hidden near the guitar's center of mass, you might end up feedbacking 'till kingdom come. Might wanna consider that.
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