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Unread 04-20-2012, 02:21 PM   #51
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't tipping it up the way you have it drawn make you NEED a string tree?

I would think that the up angle would get even less downforce on the nut than a straight headstock
On everything except the furthest out string or two, I don't think so. Ends up depending on the individual angles in question...

Anyhow, guess what I was doing this morning

The beast of a machine in question:











I ended up bandsawing out the shape because the contour cut to pull it out plunged all the way down and then tried to cut, pulling the MDF with it. The pickup rout pockets did this too, but not nearly so severely; I'll update the final code.
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Unread 04-20-2012, 03:18 PM   #52
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Holy giant pictures, batman!

I thought my laptop screen is huge (17.3" and 1600x900 resolution), but these pictures proved me wrong.
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Unread 04-20-2012, 03:23 PM   #53
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Shiiit. That's off my phone. Ima go resize those..
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Unread 04-20-2012, 06:19 PM   #54
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What would be suggested? Tipping it down as much as possible and using a string tree?
I'd put it flat and thicken it a bit in the positive z direction so to speak. The shear stresses caused by the mounted tuners is fixed (well, kinda), so the only thing altered is how those stresses approach sensitive areas (thickness, angle of forces and thus the resultant shear force, moments of area [kind of fixed by design here], etc). The more horizontal you place the headstock (or even travel negative degrees to a certain limit) the more those forces approach normal. Dense (in this case laminate) pieces are good at dealing with those normal directed stresses. so are your glue joints.

This is just coming from a couple materials classes though, so I'm not an expert. It isn't rocket science though and it's pretty universal application to application, so I guess my opinion is at least a teensy bit valid.
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Unread 04-20-2012, 06:39 PM   #55
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That looks fantastic dude!

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Unread 04-20-2012, 06:48 PM   #56
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Seriously this thread is going places!
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Unread 04-20-2012, 08:34 PM   #57
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24" computer user here. got bigger pics?
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Unread 04-21-2012, 04:38 PM   #58
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Also, balance is totally fine on the MDF mockup. Pretty sure I will need to adjust the cavity to fit the output jack though.
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Unread 04-22-2012, 06:48 PM   #59
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Limba end grain looks sweet.


Planed up the body a whole bunch. Glue joints look much neater now.
Topside, under myrtle:


Back:


Glued up one of the top pieces. Since I can't remember which way I put it on, I'm praying I actually put it on the right way after doing all the checking and aligning... it is flush to the centerline though:


Finally got enough clamps and an upper board on there to even out the pressure.


fun fact: while Limba dust smells kind of sickly sweet, myrtle dust smells like fresh popcorn
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Unread 04-23-2012, 10:06 AM   #60
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fun fact: while Limba dust smells kind of sickly sweet, myrtle dust smells like fresh popcorn
maple smells like maple syrup (imagine that), tzalam smells like chocolate, rosewood smells beautiful... not sure what it smells like, but I love it.

Oh, and cocobolo smells like aids.
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Is this... guitar?
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Unread 04-23-2012, 12:48 PM   #61
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Paduak smells like vanilla, oak smells kinda sour... Ebony I'm not sure and I don't want to find out.

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Unread 04-23-2012, 12:50 PM   #62
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and what does it taste like?
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Unread 04-23-2012, 01:49 PM   #63
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Mahogany dust smells and tastes like ass.
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Unread 04-23-2012, 01:49 PM   #64
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Unread 04-23-2012, 02:00 PM   #65
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One must then conclude that you have tasted ass, and I have tasted Aids... or perhaps I'm so omniscient that I know what aids tastes like.

Back on topic though. I really like how the body "blank" is looking. Also, little late for this, but it would have been waaay easier to glue both halves on top the top at the same time... cleaning the "joint" before glueing the other side could be a bit tougher than you might think... unless you did something to stop glue from seeping out on that side.

Is this... guitar?
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Unread 04-23-2012, 02:43 PM   #66
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Quote:
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One must then conclude that you have tasted ass, and I have tasted Aids... or perhaps I'm so omniscient that I know what aids tastes like.

Back on topic though. I really like how the body "blank" is looking. Also, little late for this, but it would have been waaay easier to glue both halves on top the top at the same time... cleaning the "joint" before glueing the other side could be a bit tougher than you might think... unless you did something to stop glue from seeping out on that side.
Nope. I went at it with a chisel today. I'm having issues getting it totally, 100% flush, but it's almost there.

I did run out of clamps though, so I don't think I would have been able to do a very good job of gluing the second half down.
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Unread 04-26-2012, 02:48 AM   #67
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Coming along nicely! Great to see more people using Rhino!

DO NOT do a forward tilt on your headstock. You WILL regret it. It will not work.

The EBMM headstock is flat (parallel to the fretboard), and if memory serves correctly, they use staggered tuner posts (the ones furthest from the nut are shorter) to get the strings breaking over the nut at a more consistent angle, without the need for a string tree. Also be sure to design your headstock thickness within the allowable minimum and maximum thickness your tuners will accommodate.
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Unread 04-26-2012, 03:02 PM   #68
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Quote:
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Coming along nicely! Great to see more people using Rhino!

DO NOT do a forward tilt on your headstock. You WILL regret it. It will not work.

The EBMM headstock is flat (parallel to the fretboard), and if memory serves correctly, they use staggered tuner posts (the ones furthest from the nut are shorter) to get the strings breaking over the nut at a more consistent angle, without the need for a string tree. Also be sure to design your headstock thickness within the allowable minimum and maximum thickness your tuners will accommodate.
Thanks!

Didn't think they were staggered when I looked at my JP7, but I definitely am planning to just tilt the headstock back as much as my neck blank depth will allow, and if I need a tree, I need a tree. Just haven't had time to re model it, with finals and all.
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Unread 04-29-2012, 05:33 PM   #69
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not happy with how this turned out. Got it mostly flush but on gluing the piece warped up significantly, as well as refused to stay slid against the centerline. I got it to be somewhat decent, but it's nowhere close to flush because it just would not stay. I have to see how it turns out tomorrow... not optimistic. Might have to run a strip of some other wood down the middle.
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Unread 04-30-2012, 04:15 PM   #70
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Ugh. Not pleased AT ALL.






Suggestions?
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Unread 04-30-2012, 05:00 PM   #71
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Ooooh, bummer.

I'd say rout out a strip the length of the body roughly 2mm wide and put in an inlay of some sort, similar to the PRS Santana models (the legit ones, not the SE models).



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Unread 04-30-2012, 05:22 PM   #72
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Probably ditch thep top. The limba is too nice to let it go to waste, so I'd remove the top either with a routing jig, or something like that. Then glue a new top. Or just keep the limba which looks awesome anyways.

I was also going to sugest that you glued a strip in between the 2 pieces of the top like Xaios said, but I think there's a gap between the limba and the 2nd piece... So either you decide you can live with that gap, and maybe do some binding to cover it up, or ditch the top altogether.

Is this... guitar?
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Unread 04-30-2012, 05:40 PM   #73
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I think the parts of the top that are over where the actual body is are fitted better, as there's a lot of offcut on the bottom half.

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Unread 04-30-2012, 09:39 PM   #74
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Depending on the glue used you can use an iron and a damp cloth to heat the top and re melt the glue. It'll more than likely render the top useless but you never know.. Next time you laminate a top like that use some cauls, or at least some thin squares of wood underneath the clamps to disperse the clamping pressure more evenly across the top. The way you can those clamps set up ultimately led to what happen as the clamp is only applying direct pressure right underneath where it is. You could even just clamp your template onto the top while you laminating it on there. Another suggestion I have would be to, it the future A) either laminate the top halves together THEN onto the body, or B) Laminate the two halves of the body (Myrtle and Limba) separately, then joint to two halves together, that will prevent the large seam in the middle from happening. We all make mistakes, its how we learn!
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Unread 04-30-2012, 10:08 PM   #75
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I mean, I did use wood, I guess it wasn't think enough - though it worked on the other half.

I do realize that I should have done both halves at once but I didn't have enough clamps. The Limba is also in three blocks while the top was in two.

Glue was titebond.

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