Semi-ergo .strandy* inspired 7 string first-build - Page 3

asher · 04-20-2012, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ASoC

Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't tipping it up the way you have it drawn make you NEED a string tree?

I would think that the up angle would get even less downforce on the nut than a straight headstock

On everything except the furthest out string or two, I don't think so. Ends up depending on the individual angles in question...

Anyhow, guess what I was doing this morning

The beast of a machine in question:

I ended up bandsawing out the shape because the contour cut to pull it out plunged all the way down and then tried to cut, pulling the MDF with it. The pickup rout pockets did this too, but not nearly so severely; I'll update the final code.

HighPotency · 04-20-2012, 02:18 PM

Holy giant pictures, batman!

I thought my laptop screen is huge (17.3" and 1600x900 resolution), but these pictures proved me wrong.

asher · 04-20-2012, 02:23 PM

Shiiit. That's off my phone. Ima go resize those..

JamesM · 04-20-2012, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asher

What would be suggested? Tipping it down as much as possible and using a string tree?

I'd put it flat and thicken it a bit in the positive z direction so to speak. The shear stresses caused by the mounted tuners is fixed (well, kinda), so the only thing altered is how those stresses approach sensitive areas (thickness, angle of forces and thus the resultant shear force, moments of area [kind of fixed by design here], etc). The more horizontal you place the headstock (or even travel negative degrees to a certain limit) the more those forces approach normal. Dense (in this case laminate) pieces are good at dealing with those normal directed stresses. so are your glue joints.

This is just coming from a couple materials classes though, so I'm not an expert. It isn't rocket science though and it's pretty universal application to application, so I guess my opinion is at least a teensy bit valid.

Rook · 04-20-2012, 05:39 PM

That looks fantastic dude!

simulclass83 · 04-20-2012, 05:48 PM

Seriously this thread is going places!

MF_Kitten · 04-20-2012, 07:34 PM

24" computer user here. got bigger pics?

asher · 04-21-2012, 03:38 PM

Also, balance is totally fine on the MDF mockup. Pretty sure I will need to adjust the cavity to fit the output jack though.

asher · 04-22-2012, 05:48 PM

Limba end grain looks sweet.

Planed up the body a whole bunch. Glue joints look much neater now.
Topside, under myrtle:

Back:

Glued up one of the top pieces. Since I can't remember which way I put it on, I'm praying I actually put it on the right way after doing all the checking and aligning... it is flush to the centerline though:

Finally got enough clamps and an upper board on there to even out the pressure.

fun fact: while Limba dust smells kind of sickly sweet, myrtle dust smells like fresh popcorn

scherzo1928 · 04-23-2012, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by asher

fun fact: while Limba dust smells kind of sickly sweet, myrtle dust smells like fresh popcorn

maple smells like maple syrup (imagine that), tzalam smells like chocolate, rosewood smells beautiful... not sure what it smells like, but I love it.

Oh, and cocobolo smells like aids.

UnderTheSign · 04-23-2012, 11:48 AM

Paduak smells like vanilla, oak smells kinda sour... Ebony I'm not sure and I don't want to find out.

Scattered Messiah · 04-23-2012, 11:50 AM

and what does it taste like?

BlackMastodon · 04-23-2012, 12:49 PM

Mahogany dust smells and tastes like ass.

JamesM · 04-23-2012, 12:49 PM

scherzo1928 · 04-23-2012, 01:00 PM

One must then conclude that you have tasted ass, and I have tasted Aids... or perhaps I'm so omniscient that I know what aids tastes like.

Back on topic though. I really like how the body "blank" is looking. Also, little late for this, but it would have been waaay easier to glue both halves on top the top at the same time... cleaning the "joint" before glueing the other side could be a bit tougher than you might think... unless you did something to stop glue from seeping out on that side.

asher · 04-23-2012, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scherzo1928

One must then conclude that you have tasted ass, and I have tasted Aids... or perhaps I'm so omniscient that I know what aids tastes like.

Back on topic though. I really like how the body "blank" is looking. Also, little late for this, but it would have been waaay easier to glue both halves on top the top at the same time... cleaning the "joint" before glueing the other side could be a bit tougher than you might think... unless you did something to stop glue from seeping out on that side.

Nope. I went at it with a chisel today. I'm having issues getting it totally, 100% flush, but it's almost there.

I did run out of clamps though, so I don't think I would have been able to do a very good job of gluing the second half down.

darren · 04-26-2012, 01:48 AM

Coming along nicely! Great to see more people using Rhino!

DO NOT do a forward tilt on your headstock. You WILL regret it. It will not work.

The EBMM headstock is flat (parallel to the fretboard), and if memory serves correctly, they use staggered tuner posts (the ones furthest from the nut are shorter) to get the strings breaking over the nut at a more consistent angle, without the need for a string tree. Also be sure to design your headstock thickness within the allowable minimum and maximum thickness your tuners will accommodate.

asher · 04-26-2012, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by darren

Coming along nicely! Great to see more people using Rhino!

DO NOT do a forward tilt on your headstock. You WILL regret it. It will not work.

The EBMM headstock is flat (parallel to the fretboard), and if memory serves correctly, they use staggered tuner posts (the ones furthest from the nut are shorter) to get the strings breaking over the nut at a more consistent angle, without the need for a string tree. Also be sure to design your headstock thickness within the allowable minimum and maximum thickness your tuners will accommodate.

Thanks!

Didn't think they were staggered when I looked at my JP7, but I definitely am planning to just tilt the headstock back as much as my neck blank depth will allow, and if I need a tree, I need a tree. Just haven't had time to re model it, with finals and all.

asher · 04-29-2012, 04:33 PM

not happy with how this turned out. Got it mostly flush but on gluing the piece warped up significantly, as well as refused to stay slid against the centerline. I got it to be somewhat decent, but it's nowhere close to flush because it just would not stay. I have to see how it turns out tomorrow... not optimistic. Might have to run a strip of some other wood down the middle.

asher · 04-30-2012, 03:15 PM

Ugh. Not pleased AT ALL.

Suggestions?

Xaios · 04-30-2012, 04:00 PM

Ooooh, bummer.

I'd say rout out a strip the length of the body roughly 2mm wide and put in an inlay of some sort, similar to the PRS Santana models (the legit ones, not the SE models).

scherzo1928 · 04-30-2012, 04:22 PM

Probably ditch thep top. The limba is too nice to let it go to waste, so I'd remove the top either with a routing jig, or something like that. Then glue a new top. Or just keep the limba which looks awesome anyways.

I was also going to sugest that you glued a strip in between the 2 pieces of the top like Xaios said, but I think there's a gap between the limba and the 2nd piece... So either you decide you can live with that gap, and maybe do some binding to cover it up, or ditch the top altogether.

asher · 04-30-2012, 04:40 PM

I think the parts of the top that are over where the actual body is are fitted better, as there's a lot of offcut on the bottom half.

ECGuitars · 04-30-2012, 08:39 PM

Depending on the glue used you can use an iron and a damp cloth to heat the top and re melt the glue. It'll more than likely render the top useless but you never know.. Next time you laminate a top like that use some cauls, or at least some thin squares of wood underneath the clamps to disperse the clamping pressure more evenly across the top. The way you can those clamps set up ultimately led to what happen as the clamp is only applying direct pressure right underneath where it is. You could even just clamp your template onto the top while you laminating it on there. Another suggestion I have would be to, it the future A) either laminate the top halves together THEN onto the body, or B) Laminate the two halves of the body (Myrtle and Limba) separately, then joint to two halves together, that will prevent the large seam in the middle from happening. We all make mistakes, its how we learn!

asher · 04-30-2012, 09:08 PM

I mean, I did use wood, I guess it wasn't think enough - though it worked on the other half.

I do realize that I should have done both halves at once but I didn't have enough clamps. The Limba is also in three blocks while the top was in two.

Glue was titebond.

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04-20-2012, 05:39 PM	#55
Rook Electrifying Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: London Posts: 7,551 Thanked: 109 Feedback Score: 18 reviews	That looks fantastic dude! Formerly known as Fun111, don't be thrown off by the avatar!!!!!! My Soundcloud My project on Facebook: Rook

04-20-2012, 05:48 PM	#56
simulclass83 Yes, pancakes. Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: NJ Posts: 920 Thanked: 19 Feedback Score: 4 reviews	Seriously this thread is going places! Konfyouzd and MrHelloGuitar like this. Check out my band! http://www.facebook.com/eclipsis.us

04-20-2012, 07:34 PM	#57
MF_Kitten Fully Ramblomatic Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Stavanger, Norway Posts: 9,044 Thanked: 299 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	24" computer user here. got bigger pics? -------------------------------------- What will metal be doing in ten years? What ever Meshuggah will be doing in two. -Anthony

04-21-2012, 03:38 PM	#58
asher Pak Chooie Unf Join Date: May 2010 Location: Charlottesville, VA/Oakland, CA Posts: 1,339 Thanked: 15 Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Also, balance is totally fine on the MDF mockup. Pretty sure I will need to adjust the cavity to fit the output jack though. phrygian12 likes this.

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04-20-2012, 02:18 PM	#52
HighPotency SS.org Regular Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Everett, WA Posts: 379 Thanked: 2 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Holy giant pictures, batman! I thought my laptop screen is huge (17.3" and 1600x900 resolution), but these pictures proved me wrong.

04-20-2012, 02:23 PM	#53
asher Pak Chooie Unf Join Date: May 2010 Location: Charlottesville, VA/Oakland, CA Posts: 1,339 Thanked: 15 Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Shiiit. That's off my phone. Ima go resize those..

04-22-2012, 05:48 PM	#59
asher Pak Chooie Unf Join Date: May 2010 Location: Charlottesville, VA/Oakland, CA Posts: 1,339 Thanked: 15 Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Limba end grain looks sweet. Planed up the body a whole bunch. Glue joints look much neater now. Topside, under myrtle: Back: Glued up one of the top pieces. Since I can't remember which way I put it on, I'm praying I actually put it on the right way after doing all the checking and aligning... it is flush to the centerline though: Finally got enough clamps and an upper board on there to even out the pressure. fun fact: while Limba dust smells kind of sickly sweet, myrtle dust smells like fresh popcorn phrygian12 and scherzo1928 like this.

04-23-2012, 11:48 AM	#61
UnderTheSign SS.org Regular Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: West Coast, The Netherlands Posts: 1,465 Thanked: 32 Feedback Score: 1 reviews	Paduak smells like vanilla, oak smells kinda sour... Ebony I'm not sure and I don't want to find out. SPEEDGURU - fuzz/doom/death http://www.facebook.com/speedgurudoom

04-23-2012, 11:50 AM	#62
Scattered Messiah Kassandrian Dreams Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Munich, Germany Posts: 387 Thanked: 3 Feedback Score: 4 reviews	and what does it taste like?

04-23-2012, 12:49 PM	#63
BlackMastodon \m/ (ﾟДﾟ) \m/ Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Windsor, ON Posts: 3,211 Thanked: 12 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Mahogany dust smells and tastes like ass. JamesM likes this. "Metal is for Vikings; if you're not a Viking, get off the boat." - The Beard "He doesn't even like Metallica, that's how metal he is." - My friend describing my musical tastes to her friends.

04-23-2012, 12:49 PM	#64
JamesM The Armada Join Date: May 2010 Location: St. Louis, MO Posts: 6,925 Thanked: 87 Feedback Score: 5 reviews	Cloudyhead. Facebook//Twitter//Bandcamp Watch:1,2,3,4,5 Debut Album, Abstraction out now!

04-23-2012, 01:00 PM	#65
scherzo1928 has wood for you Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mexico City Posts: 4,697 Thanked: 33 $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ Feedback Score: 0 reviews	One must then conclude that you have tasted ass, and I have tasted Aids... or perhaps I'm so omniscient that I know what aids tastes like. Back on topic though. I really like how the body "blank" is looking. Also, little late for this, but it would have been waaay easier to glue both halves on top the top at the same time... cleaning the "joint" before glueing the other side could be a bit tougher than you might think... unless you did something to stop glue from seeping out on that side. Is this... guitar?

04-26-2012, 01:48 AM	#67
darren Decibel Guitars Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Greater Toronto Area, Canada Posts: 11,490 Thanked: 76 Feedback Score: 9 reviews	Coming along nicely! Great to see more people using Rhino! DO NOT do a forward tilt on your headstock. You WILL regret it. It will not work. The EBMM headstock is flat (parallel to the fretboard), and if memory serves correctly, they use staggered tuner posts (the ones furthest from the nut are shorter) to get the strings breaking over the nut at a more consistent angle, without the need for a string tree. Also be sure to design your headstock thickness within the allowable minimum and maximum thickness your tuners will accommodate. scherzo1928 and Solodini like this. web \| facebook \| twitter

04-29-2012, 04:33 PM	#69
asher Pak Chooie Unf Join Date: May 2010 Location: Charlottesville, VA/Oakland, CA Posts: 1,339 Thanked: 15 Feedback Score: 6 reviews	not happy with how this turned out. Got it mostly flush but on gluing the piece warped up significantly, as well as refused to stay slid against the centerline. I got it to be somewhat decent, but it's nowhere close to flush because it just would not stay. I have to see how it turns out tomorrow... not optimistic. Might have to run a strip of some other wood down the middle. phrygian12 likes this. SchecterWhore: Artistic voice is the same as your speaking voice. Two people can say the same thing and come across differently in a lot of ways. When my girlfriend and I are walking through a crowd, she squeaks "Excuse me!" and sounds cute and non-threatening. I say "Excuse me," and the person in front of us thinks they're about to get butt-raped by Barry White.

04-30-2012, 03:15 PM	#70
asher Pak Chooie Unf Join Date: May 2010 Location: Charlottesville, VA/Oakland, CA Posts: 1,339 Thanked: 15 Feedback Score: 6 reviews	Ugh. Not pleased AT ALL. Suggestions? phrygian12 likes this. SchecterWhore: Artistic voice is the same as your speaking voice. Two people can say the same thing and come across differently in a lot of ways. When my girlfriend and I are walking through a crowd, she squeaks "Excuse me!" and sounds cute and non-threatening. I say "Excuse me," and the person in front of us thinks they're about to get butt-raped by Barry White.

04-30-2012, 04:00 PM	#71
Xaios Foolish Mortal Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Nimbus III Posts: 6,562 Thanked: 128 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Ooooh, bummer. I'd say rout out a strip the length of the body roughly 2mm wide and put in an inlay of some sort, similar to the PRS Santana models (the legit ones, not the SE models). Revenge is a dish best served with nice biscuits. ALL HAIL DJOD, MASTER OF THE SSO NEGAVERSE

04-30-2012, 04:22 PM	#72
scherzo1928 has wood for you Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mexico City Posts: 4,697 Thanked: 33 $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ $scherzo1928 is rather kvlt and tr00. \m/$ Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Probably ditch thep top. The limba is too nice to let it go to waste, so I'd remove the top either with a routing jig, or something like that. Then glue a new top. Or just keep the limba which looks awesome anyways. I was also going to sugest that you glued a strip in between the 2 pieces of the top like Xaios said, but I think there's a gap between the limba and the 2nd piece... So either you decide you can live with that gap, and maybe do some binding to cover it up, or ditch the top altogether. Is this... guitar?

04-30-2012, 04:40 PM	#73
asher Pak Chooie Unf Join Date: May 2010 Location: Charlottesville, VA/Oakland, CA Posts: 1,339 Thanked: 15 Feedback Score: 6 reviews	I think the parts of the top that are over where the actual body is are fitted better, as there's a lot of offcut on the bottom half. SchecterWhore: Artistic voice is the same as your speaking voice. Two people can say the same thing and come across differently in a lot of ways. When my girlfriend and I are walking through a crowd, she squeaks "Excuse me!" and sounds cute and non-threatening. I say "Excuse me," and the person in front of us thinks they're about to get butt-raped by Barry White.

04-30-2012, 08:39 PM	#74
ECGuitars SS.org Regular Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Vancouver BC Posts: 197 Thanked: 2 Feedback Score: 0 reviews	Depending on the glue used you can use an iron and a damp cloth to heat the top and re melt the glue. It'll more than likely render the top useless but you never know.. Next time you laminate a top like that use some cauls, or at least some thin squares of wood underneath the clamps to disperse the clamping pressure more evenly across the top. The way you can those clamps set up ultimately led to what happen as the clamp is only applying direct pressure right underneath where it is. You could even just clamp your template onto the top while you laminating it on there. Another suggestion I have would be to, it the future A) either laminate the top halves together THEN onto the body, or B) Laminate the two halves of the body (Myrtle and Limba) separately, then joint to two halves together, that will prevent the large seam in the middle from happening. We all make mistakes, its how we learn! scherzo1928 likes this.

04-30-2012, 09:08 PM	#75
asher Pak Chooie Unf Join Date: May 2010 Location: Charlottesville, VA/Oakland, CA Posts: 1,339 Thanked: 15 Feedback Score: 6 reviews	I mean, I did use wood, I guess it wasn't think enough - though it worked on the other half. I do realize that I should have done both halves at once but I didn't have enough clamps. The Limba is also in three blocks while the top was in two. Glue was titebond. SchecterWhore: Artistic voice is the same as your speaking voice. Two people can say the same thing and come across differently in a lot of ways. When my girlfriend and I are walking through a crowd, she squeaks "Excuse me!" and sounds cute and non-threatening. I say "Excuse me," and the person in front of us thinks they're about to get butt-raped by Barry White.

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