What tools I need and How I replace the Truss Rod in my RG1527z?

[Tritono]

I have a big problem with my truss rod. Its a factory problem (@!#). When I bought the guitar it came with a defective truss rod but I did not have the experience to realize about the problem. When I adjusted the truss rod I realized that the wrench not grasped the entire length of truss rod nut but I gave not importance. Until a day the truss rod nut was rolled. I imported new truss rod nuts and yesterday I discovered a two big problems in the truss rod:

1) It was inevitable to destroy truss rod nuts because the exposed truss rod thread is crooked. For that reason I was not able to use the entire lenght of the nut of the truss rod because the wrench dont enter correctly because the limited space and the crooked situation. So, I dig the wood around the area to leave more space and then I discovered the second big problem.

2) As the truss rod thread is crooked, I cant have access to all the thread so I cant put the neck straight. Very, very bad news.

I was going to do a refret but with that problem I can't do anything. I cant put the neck straight. .

* What tools I need to buy in order to do the truss rod change myself? (except refret tools)

* What truss rod I need to buy that fit the neck in my RG1527z?

I did everything that I can to straithen the truss rod thread but is not possible. I will adjunt some photos.

Thank you in advance for the help :\

p.s. English is not my native language

[Linny]

I took a fingerboard off an Ibanez recently. You will need to do this to get at the rod. The old fingerboard won't be able to be reused.

Pics:

Linny - RG1527 Fingerboard Replacement.

[Tritono]

Originally Posted by Linny

I took a fingerboard off an Ibanez recently. You will need to do this to get at the rod. The old fingerboard won't be able to be reused.

Pics:

Linny - RG1527 Fingerboard Replacement.

Thank you Linny. Why you cant reuse the fingerboard? in the pics you put it out gently and the fingerboard dont have scratchs. I know that the refret is neccesary but is really not a possibility to reuse the fingerboard?

[Customisbetter]

Its unlikely that the fretboard will stay straight after all of the steam and glueing and fretting.

Get a new Fretboard from LMII and youll be set.

[Linny]

Originally Posted by Tritono

Thank you Linny. Why you cant reuse the fingerboard? in the pics you put it out gently and the fingerboard dont have scratchs. I know that the refret is neccesary but is really not a possibility to reuse the fingerboard?

Yea basically it warps all over the place. I have never attempted to put the old board back on after replacing a rod.

[Tritono]

I understand. I asked because I was thinking in sell this guitar. Now I will need to spent some extra money for a factory problem. for Ibanez. What tools I need? What truss rod for my guitar? (Im really newbie in this situation). Any knife will work? or I need to buy a exact type?

I searched in the stewmac website and I found three knifes:

STEWMAC.COM : Offset Disassembly Knife
STEWMAC.COM : Bridge/Fingerboard Removal Knife
STEWMAC.COM : Seam Separation Knife

I dont know what I need. Can you give some advice? About truss rods I dont have idea. I think this is a one way truss rod.

Any advice about is appreciated.

[Linny]

Just the seam separation knife will do. The truss rod is a single action, you should be able to pick up a replacement on ebay.

[Sullen]

I did the same with an 7421, just be patient, really patient with the iron and go little by little, don't stress the the fretboard hurrying it up to go off or you'll damage the neck wood below the fingerboard and if you stay for too long on one area you might warp the neck as well, so be patient but don't stop working your way up (Always start at the hell)...

[Tritono]

Originally Posted by Linny

Just the seam separation knife will do. The truss rod is a single action, you should be able to pick up a replacement on ebay.

Thank you for the information. So if I buy just the separation knife I will be able to do with patience a good job? I will not need nothing more? I will search for a single action thruss rod in Ebay.

Originally Posted by Sullen

I did the same with an 7421, just be patient, really patient with the iron and go little by little, don't stress the the fretboard hurrying it up to go off or you'll damage the neck wood below the fingerboard and if you stay for too long on one area you might warp the neck as well, so be patient but don't stop working your way up (Always start at the hell)...

Thank you Sullen. I dont have experience with jobs like this. I will be really patient. Can you describe in detail the process? I dont found good information in google. I saw the thread of Linny and he used a wet towel and an iron. The method is put the wet towel on the fingerboard with frets and then put the iron above the towel? and with the separation knife try to go under fretboard and walk gradually?

[Sullen]

Originally Posted by Tritono

Thank you for the information. So if I buy just the separation knife I will be able to do with patience a good job? I will not need nothing more? I will search for a single action thruss rod in Ebay.



Thank you Sullen. I dont have experience with jobs like this. I will be really patient. Can you describe in detail the process? I dont found good information in google. I saw the thread of Linny and he used a wet towel and an iron. The method is put the wet towel on the fingerboard with frets and then put the iron above the towel? and with the separation knife try to go under fretboard and walk gradually?

Exactly! Try to stick a razorblade to scrap a little lacquer off the fretboard/neck joint first to make an easier way for the separation knife to stick in to start the process, always keep the towel wet, and use the steam option on the iron, not just plain heat, so keep a cup or a recipient with water close to refill the iron when needed. This process can take like an hour or even up to three depending on the neck so don't get frustrated if is taking too long.

*P.S. I was scared too the first time I did this, but it came out good, like I said if you are patient nothing should go wrong...

[Tritono]

Originally Posted by Sullen

Exactly! Try to stick a razorblade to scrap a little lacquer off the fretboard/neck joint first to make an easier way for the separation knife to stick in to start the process, always keep the towel wet, and use the steam option on the iron, not just plain heat, so keep a cup or a recipient with water close to refill the iron when needed. This process can take like an hour or even up to three depending on the neck so don't get frustrated if is taking too long.

*P.S. I was scared too the first time I did this, but it came out good, like I said if you are patient nothing should go wrong...

Thank you Sullen. Is inevitable the fear, but with intelligence and patience I think all can be good. Is neccesary to check the temperature or take other precautions? or just go for it? no other tools required at all?

I investigated in Ebay and I just found two single action truss rod:

SINGLE STYLE GUITAR TRUSS ROD + NUT 18 3/8 new | eBay

SINGLE STYLE GUITAR TRUSS ROD + NUT 17 1/2 new | eBay

I need to know what truss rod will work with my guitar and if all truss rod have a similar quality of some are better than others. I want to do a good purchase considering fit and quality.

Thanks again for the information . Im not very happy about this, the more problematic thing that you can have in a guitar is the truss rod problem and I have it from factory!

[Linny]

Wait till you get the old rod out before buying a replacement, that way you can measure it first. Get the same type of rod. It should take you an hour or so to remove the old board.

Make sure the towel is pretty wet and put the iron on hot with steam, keep spraying some water on the towel to keep it damp.

Once the board is off gently clamp the neck down to something flat until you get the new board/rod ready. This stops the neck warping.

I have done a few of these and it does get easier

[Sullen]

Originally Posted by Tritono

Thank you Sullen. Is inevitable the fear, but with intelligence and patience I think all can be good. Is neccesary to check the temperature or take other precautions? or just go for it? no other tools required at all?

I investigated in Ebay and I just found two single action truss rod:

SINGLE STYLE GUITAR TRUSS ROD + NUT 18 3/8 new | eBay

SINGLE STYLE GUITAR TRUSS ROD + NUT 17 1/2 new | eBay

I need to know what truss rod will work with my guitar and if all truss rod have a similar quality of some are better than others. I want to do a good purchase considering fit and quality.

Thanks again for the information . Im not very happy about this, the more problematic thing that you can have in a guitar is the truss rod problem and I have it from factory!

Just the towel, Iron, separation file, razor for that first step and water is all you need. As for temps don't worry, heat one area, remove the iron and check with the knife if the glue have give up, if not heat a little more and check again, this is basically the whole process, don't forget to steam and the towel will get really hot so be careful with it, the water will help with this as it will be soaked as well. As for rods my 7421 had a dual-action like this one Truss Rod - Double action welded nut - Information and Pricing at LMI the one listed as TRED, not sure about the 1527 though... From Linny's post it seems like the rod from LMII will work perfectly in a 1527, the depth and width of the channel is made for this type of rods on RG's so it should be the same with the 1527 but take Linny's advice and wait until you take out yours fisrt. Also, check a new board on LMII too!

[Linny]

BLUE DOUBLE STYLE GUITAR TRUSS ROD + NUT 17 3/8 new | eBay

Thats more like the rod in the Ibanez.

[Sullen]

Originally Posted by Linny

BLUE DOUBLE STYLE GUITAR TRUSS ROD + NUT 17 3/8 new | eBay

Thats more like the rod in the Ibanez.

Yeah! That's the same one All Parts sell, with the blue wrap. This should help when gluing back the board to stop glue from getting in the channel and preventing the rod from doing it's job...

[Sullen]

But remember one thing. Removing the old board and replacing the Rod is basically the easy part. Gluin the new board, trim it flush with the neck, doing the radius, cutting fret slots, refretting, fret dressing, etc. is where the real work comes in, be prepared for that...

[Tritono]

Originally Posted by Sullen

But remember one thing. Removing the old board and replacing the Rod is basically the easy part. Gluin the new board, trim it flush with the neck, doing the radius, cutting fret slots, refretting, fret dressing, etc. is where the real work comes in, be prepared for that...

Thank you Sullen. Im not happy about this situation. I contacted to Hoshino Usa asking for International Warranty. Never I would thought that the guitar would come with a deffective.. truss rod!. But I learned the lesson: CHECK THE TRUSS ROD! when you buy a guitar, new or used. .

If they dont respond, I have planned to buy a truss rod, buy a new fingerboard, put out the existing one and then bring the guitar to a local luthier. My main problem is that the luthiers in my country sucks. I can do the radius, the refretting and the fret dressing but I dont have the tools for the other jobs. If someone discover a page with step by step information or want to add something feel free to do it.

Thank you , and keep checking the truss rod! ¬_¬

[Sullen]

The only other tool you'll need is a router and maybe a Vernier Caliper for precise measurments, there's no bigger satisfaction than doing something, do it good and look at it saying I did this and it looks and feel WAAAAAAAY BETTER than stock

[Tritono]

Thanks for the help

I need to ask a question regarding a possible alternative solution. I cant straighten the fretboard at 100% under string tension but is not too much the curvature.

Im thinking in this option: put the fretboard the most straight that I can under string tension, then reproduce the string tension without string and sand the fretboard with a 24" leveler and finalize with a 430 mmR sanding block. The idea is sand the fretboard and make it straight again, a fretboard level operation. What do you think about that alternative? Thank you in advance