[hanachanmaru]

Hi there is me again well i havent come so far being doing intensive research on wood and gradings... but one think for sure is alot of things to learn if ur a dead for electric guitar as a hobbyist or professional...well proceeding straight to my point is " just how hard and durable is for a curly maple as compared to birdseye maple?? perhaps is just cosmetics appearances??

[Apophis]

No it's not only cosmetics, those woods are different, but those differencies aren't so big. Remember that also the same wood - like plain maple - can be differend even from the same tree
Hard maple is brighter in sound than any other figured maple, but this brightness isn't much lower than hard maple. Those figured maples have more "air" inside and aren't so "hard", so the sound is little more bright.

[hanachanmaru]

Originally Posted by Apophis

No it's not only cosmetics, those woods are different, but those differencies aren't so big. Remember that also the same wood - like plain maple - can be differend even from the same tree
Hard maple is brighter in sound than any other figured maple, but this brightness isn't much lower than hard maple. Those figured maples have more "air" inside and aren't so "hard", so the sound is little more bright.

outstanding knowledge that you have Apophis normally how would that of a guitar luthier would decide it's wood for best performance ... example for extended range of 8s for its massive weight that each string poses... would quatersawn take the impact of the weight?? or does it have to be plyed with purplehearts or bubinga ?

being quatersawn arent necessary figured or of curly and birdseye ?

[Apophis]

I've made a mistake in my post in the last sentence "sound is little more bright" -should be "little less bright" - sorry for that

When building guitar main thing is the tone customer wants in the end So we have to decide what woods are good for his needs. But we also have to care about the look.
Also adding strings we have to remember about added tension, so neck have to be strong, but there are also differencies, because one wants and uses thicker strings, other thinner, but we have to build guitar that resist also big tension.
In my opinion for ERG necks it's the best to use hard woods (with scales longer than 25,5") like maple, wenge. ebony, bubinga etc. If it's avaliable it's possible to use some figured woods from that category like flame maple, macassar ebony etc. Also it's good choice to make multiple pieces of woods to build a neck.
Using some figured woods isn't the choice between the weight of hard maple and figured maple or other, it's more choice between the look then. But not always You know there is a most seen mahogany and other kind of mahogany called sapele which is much harder than other mahogany, so then it's also choice between the tone. As you see there're many possibilities.
It's really hard to answer your question in a few words.

[ElRay]

Originally Posted by hanachanmaru

being quatersawn arent necessary figured or of curly and birdseye ?

Quartersawn is a way that the log is cut into boards. Flatsawn, or plainsawn are two names for the typical milling process. Think of flatsawn like shavings off a carrot. The grain will have a characteristic "inverted arch" shape (although not as extreme as the rotary peeled stuff that's used in plywood). The grain rarely is parallel to the sides, is often at an angle, or even bends. This is what leads to warping, twisting, cracks along the grain, etc.

Think of quartersawn as slices from a big cheese wheel: First you slice it down the middle, then you cut the half circle into a 90-degree wedge, then you start taking slices off the wedge almost perpendicular to the outside arc. If the wood is quartersawn, the grain will run mostly parallel to the side. This grain pattern is much more stable.

Also, in certain woods, it will expose the cross-grain channels that will give the quartersawn board a unique appearance.

If you can't really find quartersawn lumber, and don't need wide widths, you can dig through the stack of the widest flatsawn boards you can find and locate the ones that are closest to the center of the tree. Then you can rip-off the outside 2" - 4" and that piece would correspond to an actual quartersawn board.

Ray

[hanachanmaru]

Originally Posted by ElRay

Quartersawn is a way that the log is cut into boards. Flatsawn, or plainsawn are two names for the typical milling process. Think of flatsawn like shavings off a carrot. The grain will have a characteristic "inverted arch" shape (although not as extreme as the rotary peeled stuff that's used in plywood). The grain rarely is parallel to the sides, is often at an angle, or even bends. This is what leads to warping, twisting, cracks along the grain, etc.

Think of quartersawn as slices from a big cheese wheel: First you slice it down the middle, then you cut the half circle into a 90-degree wedge, then you start taking slices off the wedge almost perpendicular to the outside arc. If the wood is quartersawn, the grain will run mostly parallel to the side. This grain pattern is much more stable.

Also, in certain woods, it will expose the cross-grain channels that will give the quartersawn board a unique appearance.

If you can't really find quartersawn lumber, and don't need wide widths, you can dig through the stack of the widest flatsawn boards you can find and locate the ones that are closest to the center of the tree. Then you can rip-off the outside 2" - 4" and that piece would correspond to an actual quartersawn board.

Ray

Thanks Ray .... i would ensure for necks are better made by quatersawn !!! very nice information here you set the pace !! thanks

[JJ Rodriguez]

Originally Posted by ElRay

Quartersawn is a way that the log is cut into boards. Flatsawn, or plainsawn are two names for the typical milling process. Think of flatsawn like shavings off a carrot. The grain will have a characteristic "inverted arch" shape (although not as extreme as the rotary peeled stuff that's used in plywood). The grain rarely is parallel to the sides, is often at an angle, or even bends. This is what leads to warping, twisting, cracks along the grain, etc.

Think of quartersawn as slices from a big cheese wheel: First you slice it down the middle, then you cut the half circle into a 90-degree wedge, then you start taking slices off the wedge almost perpendicular to the outside arc. If the wood is quartersawn, the grain will run mostly parallel to the side. This grain pattern is much more stable.

Also, in certain woods, it will expose the cross-grain channels that will give the quartersawn board a unique appearance.

If you can't really find quartersawn lumber, and don't need wide widths, you can dig through the stack of the widest flatsawn boards you can find and locate the ones that are closest to the center of the tree. Then you can rip-off the outside 2" - 4" and that piece would correspond to an actual quartersawn board.

Ray

Your explanation is making me hungry.

[hanachanmaru]

Originally Posted by Apophis

I've made a mistake in my post in the last sentence "sound is little more bright" -should be "little less bright" - sorry for that

When building guitar main thing is the tone customer wants in the end So we have to decide what woods are good for his needs. But we also have to care about the look.
Also adding strings we have to remember about added tension, so neck have to be strong, but there are also differencies, because one wants and uses thicker strings, other thinner, but we have to build guitar that resist also big tension.
In my opinion for ERG necks it's the best to use hard woods (with scales longer than 25,5") like maple, wenge. ebony, bubinga etc. If it's avaliable it's possible to use some figured woods from that category like flame maple, macassar ebony etc. Also it's good choice to make multiple pieces of woods to build a neck.
Using some figured woods isn't the choice between the weight of hard maple and figured maple or other, it's more choice between the look then. But not always You know there is a most seen mahogany and other kind of mahogany called sapele which is much harder than other mahogany, so then it's also choice between the tone. As you see there're many possibilities.
It's really hard to answer your question in a few words.

Wowww hahaha outstanding knowledge there !!! it seems like in general hard maple is used to necks and thus i would stick to it perhaps having it being curly or birds thou it might have certain hardyness in comparison... but if in general any maple wood would be most suitable for neck application in terms of the density, durability and tonality it would be stairways to heaven .... thanks there for the kind time !!!