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Unread 08-01-2009, 05:47 PM   #3751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Explorer View Post
Here's a suggestion, which took me less than a minute to execute for myself.

Go to the Rondo Music website, and look at the eight-string guitars available. The neck descriptions are there, and it will be good practice for the next time you want an answer, but might not find someone who knows. Going to the source is always a good skill to cultivate.

I'll make it a little easier for you by giving you a link here, but I encourage you to make Google your friend.

And, to answer the one question you actually asked, yes, there is another difference in addition to the bolt-on/neck-through distinction. Take a look at both and read the descriptions as well.

Build a man a fire, and he'll be warm for a day.

Set a man on fire, and he'll be warm for the rest of his life.

Stay warm, friend.
I should have also written "besides that fact that one is a neck-thru and the other is a bolt on AND that they are made form different woods".

I wanted to know about specifics the Rondo website did not have information on, such as width, thickness, etc.

Thank you in advance to anyone that has information to provide. If you don't have anything for me then post on Harmony Central.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 12:34 AM   #3752
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To be fair, I've heard that the Pros have necks with slightly flat and wider feeling shoulders, rather than being slightly more slim and rounded on the edges like the Standards. The necks are supposed to be the same thickness and I don't know how much of a difference the profiles make but that makes me more inclined to the Pro.
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Unread 08-02-2009, 05:43 AM   #3753
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i believe it's the opposite actually, with the standards having a slightly more pronounced flat part, while the pros are a little more rounded.

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Unread 08-03-2009, 01:05 PM   #3754
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Got an e-mail saying my Inptrepid should get to me by Friday!!!

Any guys in the UK that have received their guitars from Rondo Music in less than 5 days?
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Unread 08-03-2009, 01:14 PM   #3755
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I’m trying not to think about this too much… but I am having my Intrepid Pro with ebony fretboard delivered to work. It’s scheduled to arrive today, which means that all work will cease for a one-hour period while I inspect every facet of the instrument.

Ever since I started having things sent to work, I have never had to worry about them walking off the porch, or being exposed to the elements. The need to do the immediate inspection in case of shipping damage is an unexpected bonus…
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Unread 08-03-2009, 01:50 PM   #3756
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WOHOOOOO,
I just got my fedex tracking number for my Pro duo cepheus!!!!
It will arrive friday probably, so i'll post pics and a clip soon enough!
I'm sooo happy and lucky!! hehehehe
wohooo
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Unread 08-03-2009, 02:59 PM   #3757
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Excellent condition, other than a loose battery.

The fingerboard and fret finishing is just a LITTLE rough, but the frets all work, and there are no sharp edges.

HOWEVER!

The intonation on the lowest string is completely maxed out as is! I’m hopeful that it will intonate for at least a low E, but even though there is 4 millimeters of space in front of the highest string’s bridge on the plate, I’m surprised that the bridge is still so far forward.

Is there any hope of Rondo/Kurt/Agile ever taking seriously the requests to move the bridge back? This may seriously be the only reason I return it… which I had already let Kurt know when he told me I was getting a guitar from this shipment instead of October.

It truly sucks it big time that the bridge can’t be moved back. Is it really so hard to do?

This really sucks it raw... and that hurts.

Anyway, I might even go home at lunch and see if this thing can even be adjusted for the low E1, or if it gets returned right away, and my name reinserted for the original October guitar, with this issue finally resolved…

----

And, for those who have been curious, the black case fits this thing perfectly, with no play at all.
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Unread 08-03-2009, 03:48 PM   #3758
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I dont get it, I had my last run pro set up when I got it and there was still room for intonation adjustment.

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Unread 08-03-2009, 04:22 PM   #3759
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.070 tuned to F on my 2nd run Standard - perfect intonation with saddle maxed-out with spring removed, string's almost touching the end of adjustment screw.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Explorer View Post
Excellent condition, other than a loose battery.

The fingerboard and fret finishing is just a LITTLE rough, but the frets all work, and there are no sharp edges.

HOWEVER!

The intonation on the lowest string is completely maxed out as is! I’m hopeful that it will intonate for at least a low E, but even though there is 4 millimeters of space in front of the highest string’s bridge on the plate, I’m surprised that the bridge is still so far forward.

Is there any hope of Rondo/Kurt/Agile ever taking seriously the requests to move the bridge back? This may seriously be the only reason I return it… which I had already let Kurt know when he told me I was getting a guitar from this shipment instead of October.

It truly sucks it big time that the bridge can’t be moved back. Is it really so hard to do?

This really sucks it raw... and that hurts.

Anyway, I might even go home at lunch and see if this thing can even be adjusted for the low E1, or if it gets returned right away, and my name reinserted for the original October guitar, with this issue finally resolved…

----

And, for those who have been curious, the black case fits this thing perfectly, with no play at all.
You need to get thicker strings or tune up. What gauge you've tried to get down to E1?

Also, remember that thicker wound strings don't break over the nut and saddle. They arc because of their stiffness - you need to push them hard with your finger after the first tune-up on the first fret (close to the nut) and behind the birdge pickup (close to the saddle). Then they'll have breaking angles and you'll get the correct intonation.

ALCOBRUTAL
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Unread 08-03-2009, 04:33 PM   #3760
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Then obviously there was a difference in bridge positioning between the 2 because im using a 70 as well
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.070 tuned to F on my 2nd run Standard - perfect intonation with saddle maxed-out with spring removed, string's almost touching the end of adjustment screw.

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Unread 08-03-2009, 04:40 PM   #3761
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you could always try moving the bridge yourself, but you'd only be able to move it a little bit before revealing the screw-holes.

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Unread 08-03-2009, 04:44 PM   #3762
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Quote:
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Then obviously there was a difference in bridge positioning between the 2 because im using a 70 as well
Depends on the string itself as well - for instance I use d'addario nickel round wound.

There was this dummy-proof illustration made by someone (GazPots maybe?) here for getting proper thick wound string braking angles when some guy couldn't get intonation on his 2228 correct. But I can't find it...

ALCOBRUTAL

Last edited by plyta; 08-03-2009 at 04:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Unread 08-03-2009, 06:27 PM   #3763
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My eventual plan is to put tune the lowest string to Ab0. I talked about this in the "full fifths tuning thread," and the target tuning is: Ab0 - E1 - Bb1 - F2 - C3 - G3 - D4 - A4. I'll probably be going with at least 13 lbs. of tension, so the bottom strings will be larger than the .072 these are purported to use (actual string upon arrival: .065).

So, before I start altering the tuning machines to accept something around .100, and have work done on the nut, I'll need to be able to adjust the bridge further back. If it's already back as far as possible, and won't adjust to E1, then the instrument just won't work, in spite of the scale length.

It would be a shame, since everything else would be ideal. That bridge plate and the string holes through the body could be moved back at least 2 mm towards the tail, given the huge amount of space on the high E string currently. Being able to make that change would make the guitar more versatile.

It would seem, after quite a few posts on this site, and after quite a few people have written to Kurt, that the bridge would have moved back. It's just not happening, though, which is a shame if anyone wants to downtune further.

If something has to be screwed to its limit to reach a minimum of good adjustment, then why not change the set up so it doesn't have to be screwed to its limit... and so the instrument can even go beyond that minimum expectation?

----

Incidentally, moving the bridge means the holes in the instrument's back, in which rest the ball ends, will now be out of line with the holes in the bridgeplate. One can't just move the bridge and cover the holes, because then one can't thread the strings through the body.

If I were willing to plug the holes, move the bridge and mark new locations for the holes and grommets, and then redrill, leaving all kinds of ugly ma

Wait a minute! Why wouldn't this just be done right to begin with?

If it comes down to that, then it's going back, as lovely as it is. I'm willing to have the set up done to handle larger strings and such, but if the intonation is already bottomed out at E1, then it's not worth it. It won't do what I want, and isn't set up to be downtuned... which is odd for an eight string, but maybe that's just me...
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Unread 08-03-2009, 06:41 PM   #3764
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The bridge was moved back from where it was in the first run. I think some people were talking about the saddles on the high strings ending up as far forward as they would go, though. If the bridge's current location is working for the majority of people, but with the saddles on either side being pretty much at their maximum positions in opposite directions, I can understand the logic in leaving it where it is. Given the range between your proposed lowest string and your highest string, you might want to keep that in mind when you move the bridge.

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Unread 08-03-2009, 09:57 PM   #3765
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I'm not going to move the bridge. If it doesn't work, it just goes back to
Rondo. Not worth plugging and redrilling, even though the ebony fingerboard is beautiful.

The intonation on the high string is dead on, and there is still that additional 4mm on the high side. The bass string is at maximum for the tuning it came with, and the high string has 4mm of additional adjustment possible to sharp the intonation. I'm going up to A4 (or will if I keep this), and there is no way I'll max out that 4mm of space, or even 2mm or space, had they moved the bridge. As far as I know know, A4 is the highest possible note on this, and it took less than 5mm of movement to intonate the B4 on the FM-408 at 25.5". I doubt one could max out the high string. As far as I know, there isn't really a way to tune that high string higher than A4 at the 28.625" scale length of the Intrepid, so it's unlikely I'm going to eat that whole 4mm.

4mm at the top... nothing at the bottom. It's not the middle of the range at all, Tom, it's scraping the bottom of possible adjustment.

I can understand, I guess. It's not like more than one person would ever want to tune this down from the F#1, right? No one would ever want even that E1, or a low D1, and that's not what an eight string is all about. It's about going higher... errr, right? *laugh*

----

Whoops!

The nut isn't cut for a .072 string. There is no way to even test a larger string on it than the .065 it came with. It's funny, the Rondo website says on all the eight-strings that the lowest string is a .072, so I'm know I'm not wrong in my expectations.

Will widening the channel in the nut to where it's supposed to already be void the possibility of returns? Or is this just a whacky mistake, just on this particular guitar?
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Unread 08-04-2009, 01:25 AM   #3766
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i slapped a .74 on my Intrepid without the need for enlarging my nut slot.. All i needed was to drill the tuner out.. im wondering if the nuts on the intrepids arent consistent. Also, i tune everything down a half step, and even if i tune my low string to Eb, i have no intonation problems, its perfect. Waaaait i forgot to mention, i bought 2 sets of Graphtech saddles, and i filed the bottom of the F# and B stringsaddles down a bit so i could pull the sadddles back some more. Maybe that would help?
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Unread 08-04-2009, 02:19 AM   #3767
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnHatch View Post
i slapped a .74 on my Intrepid without the need for enlarging my nut slot.. All i needed was to drill the tuner out.. im wondering if the nuts on the intrepids arent consistent. Also, i tune everything down a half step, and even if i tune my low string to Eb, i have no intonation problems, its perfect. Waaaait i forgot to mention, i bought 2 sets of Graphtech saddles, and i filed the bottom of the F# and B string saddles down a bit so i could pull the saddles back some more. Maybe that would help?
Speaking of which, are there any places one can buy single Graphtech saddles? I have a set of six and only need two more - I would hate to have to buy a whole other set I figured that if I buy a dual standard then the Graphtechs would be better than the stock saddles.

A quick search on the internet turned up nothing

Also, FWIW, I emailed Hipshot a few hours ago to see if it is possible to order a single short saddle (such as the ones that come on the 8 string Schecter). I will report back on this as soon as I am emailed.
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Unread 08-04-2009, 03:38 AM   #3768
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Quick question. Anything specific I should use to clean my Intrepid's body, neck and fretboard? It's a std. bloodburst, maple fretboard. I've never had a guitar with a satin finish or a maple neck before so I'm just curious about recommendations.
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Unread 08-04-2009, 04:07 AM   #3769
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Quick question. Anything specific I should use to clean my Intrepid's body, neck and fretboard? It's a std. bloodburst, maple fretboard. I've never had a guitar with a satin finish or a maple neck before so I'm just curious about recommendations.
I clean the body of mine with a microfiber cloth, no polish. but any good cotton cloth should do, just wipe that beast down when your done playing with it

For the fretboard, every other restring i use 0000 steel wool ( to get the gunk off if there is any, and it makes the frets nice and shiny, but doesnt hurt anything) then wipe the steel wool filings off(or blow them off) and a little bit of lemon oil on a cloth. Seems to do the trick!
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Unread 08-04-2009, 09:58 AM   #3770
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I was still at work when mine came by. Nobody was here to sign for it so I have to wait another day.
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Unread 08-04-2009, 10:22 AM   #3771
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I was still at work when mine came by. Nobody was here to sign for it so I have to wait another day.
Sorry to hear that, I know that sucks. I had the same thing happening back 1,5 years ago when I got my RG1527.
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Unread 08-04-2009, 10:33 AM   #3772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnHatch View Post
i slapped a .74 on my Intrepid without the need for enlarging my nut slot.. All i needed was to drill the tuner out.. im wondering if the nuts on the intrepids arent consistent. Also, i tune everything down a half step, and even if i tune my low string to Eb, i have no intonation problems, its perfect. Waaaait i forgot to mention, i bought 2 sets of Graphtech saddles, and i filed the bottom of the F# and B stringsaddles down a bit so i could pull the sadddles back some more. Maybe that would help?
That definitely would help. How much more did you have to pay for the replacement saddles to be able to intonate your stock guitar accurately?
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Unread 08-04-2009, 11:16 AM   #3773
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Quote:
Originally Posted by st2012 View Post
I was still at work when mine came by. Nobody was here to sign for it so I have to wait another day.
i called fedex today and told them to drop it off at the nearest post office, and they did just that. so i'll pick it up when i come back home to the apartment.

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Unread 08-04-2009, 11:26 AM   #3774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Explorer View Post

4mm at the top... nothing at the bottom. It's not the middle of the range at all, Tom, it's scraping the bottom of possible adjustment.

I can understand, I guess. It's not like more than one person would ever want to tune this down from the F#1, right? No one would ever want even that E1, or a low D1, and that's not what an eight string is all about. It's about going higher... errr, right? *laugh*

well honestly its just an entry level 8 so that people can decide if they like the feel of an 8 or not. it was never intended as a custom instrument. probably if youre after some other tunings or something that cant be done on the intrepid you would be better off going to someone like sherman or shamray or plenty of other custom builders out there that would build something to do specifically what you want. rondo isnt a real custom shop so you probably shouldnt expect custom quality from them. especially at the prices they are selling.

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Unread 08-04-2009, 01:10 PM   #3775
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Quote:
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That definitely would help. How much more did you have to pay for the replacement saddles to be able to intonate your stock guitar accurately?
50 dollars for the 2 sets of graphtech saddles, but my intonation wasnt THAT bad when i got it. which makes me wonder if there are consistency issues with bridge placement, nut, etc.

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i called fedex today and told them to drop it off at the nearest post office, and they did just that. so i'll pick it up when i come back home to the apartment.

Mine will be here tomorrow... I CANT WAIT to see your pics since your getting yours first! Im really hoping it'll be the lime green that the computer mockup depicted, because Darrens picture had black edges, and it bursted more towards the middle of the guitar, ala "Grilled LizardBurst"

Last edited by JonnHatch; 08-04-2009 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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