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| Beginners/FAQ For you new players out there. Any question is a good one, so ask away. |
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#1 |
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Sweater Bandit
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Connersville, IN
Posts: 404
Thanked: 14
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How do I get my 7621 to Drop F?
Title really says it all.
I need string gauge advice. Also, do I need to adjust the truss rod or anything on the guitar itself? It is 100% stock. "You didn't create the universe did you hmm? Thordendal did. With a single DJENT." - nostealbucket |
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#2 |
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SS.org Regular
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Warwick, RI, USA
Posts: 280
Thanked: 2
![]() Feedback Score: 9 reviews
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Good luck getting the low strings intonated...I couldn't intonate the .058 low B on my 7621 because the saddle wouldn't move back far enough (even after removing the saddle spring that holds it in place when strings aren't on). I'm not sure what gauge you'd use for a low F, but I used a .064 for A and the tension was pretty comfortable (I like 10-58 in B, so think equal tension to that) so maybe .074 or .076?
Truss rod adjustment would depend on what gauge/tuning you're using now and what you're changing to (i.e., how much more/less tension there will be compared to how you have it set up right now). If you're coming from stock setup, there will probably be more tension in F and you'll need to tighten the truss rod. To check the neck relief (and see how much--if any--truss rod adjustment is necessary), look down the side of the neck (so you can see the entire side of the fretboard at once) after you change strings; if the neck is curved slightly up toward the strings, if means you need to loosen the truss rod (turn it a little to the left); likewise, if the neck is curved away from the strings, it means you need to tighten it (turn a little to the right). Some people like the neck to be slightly bowed away from the strings to raise action, but that can result in a bad setup and buzz, so try to get the neck perfectly straight if you can and do any action adjustments at the bridge. If you google how to adjust the truss rod, you'll find plenty of tutorials and videos of how to do it... |
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#3 |
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SS.org Regular
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Glasgow (UK)
Posts: 384
Thanked: 15
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Hopes and dreams
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#4 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canadia
Posts: 19,984
Thanked: 338
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 10 reviews
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You'll probably need to widen the nut and drill out the tuners (or you can manually unwind the low F string each time you restring).
A 74 would be way too lose imo, I would start with an 82 at least and see how you like that...I'm not sure how much room those bridges have to intonate but I hope its a lot! |
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#5 |
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SS.org Regular
Join Date: May 2008
Location: EU
Posts: 177
Thanked: 9 / 1
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By turning the machine heads clockwise.
Sorry. J/k. Couldn't resist. But seriously, string gauge is totally a matter of preference. I'd start somewhere around .074. If the overall tension of the strings is roughly the same as before you won't need to adjust the truss rod. But even if you do it's nothing magical. It's just turning a screw. As long as you are careful everything will be fine. |
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#6 |
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Tries to be helpful
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Guildford, UK
Posts: 524
Thanked: 3 / 1
![]() Feedback Score: 1 reviews
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74-80 string gauge.
Drill out the tuner to fit the new string gauge, adjust truss rod to compensate for the thicker strings (or you'll get buzz/stupidly high action because you've raised the bridge instead),possibly have to make the nut slots wider and get a short saddle so you can intonate properly. Best of luck!
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#7 |
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SS.org Regular
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 601
Thanked: 2
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You could also get a short saddle from Graphtech for the low string so you can adjust it a bit better.
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#8 |
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SS.org Regular
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Glasgow (UK)
Posts: 384
Thanked: 15
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there is NO need to drill out a tuner, simply unwind the outer of the string instead and cut off where necessary. (may need a pair of snips just to catch the end of the string to begin unraveling the string
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#9 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canadia
Posts: 19,984
Thanked: 338
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 10 reviews
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Quote:
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#10 |
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SS.org Regular
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Glasgow (UK)
Posts: 384
Thanked: 15
![]() ![]() ![]() Feedback Score: 9 reviews
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it takes 5 minutes at most, just an alternative if you haven't got access to a drill, but if you do, drill your heart out ! (made no sense) haha
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#11 |
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Banned
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Butt salsa lane, oswego, illinois
Posts: 2,085
Thanked: 14
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drilling out a tuner takes like 30 seconds
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#12 |
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SS.org Regular
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Glasgow (UK)
Posts: 384
Thanked: 15
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yeah I know, i've had sperzels drilled out bigger before in the past done by a friend, takes no time at all, but I personally dont own a drill so, its not the end of the world for folks wanting to use thicker strings for their tuners that dont own a drill. Just saying
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